A thin layer of dust can reduce your solar panels effectiveness by 30%, you have to constantly clean them it helps out alot if your battery bank is able to sustain your consumption 😊 hope this helps!
@@Proeliens nah it doesn't get blown away. I've had desert dust and pollen on my solar panels on my camper for hundreds of miles. Gotta wipe it now and then
@@jebavjeb I have, and that's really all that matters in a comment written by me. Also it really isn't a big difference; don't comment just to be a prick.
Not insulating is a real bad Idea. I used the same foam board closed cell spray foam. Before and After is a huge difference. It still gets as hot as a car but with insulation you can manage the climate much better. No Question.
@@humbledb4jesus Spray foam doesn't set up in the closed area. I know, I used a bit, and a week later poking into the middle of it is was still goo. And it's outgassing toxic forever... into your living space.... that you breathe... I ended up using Polyiso board, 1/2" is 3.9, and 3/4" is 4.5 R factor, came out much better.
@@brianmi40 I used 2.5" of closed cell spray foam from a company i use to do weekend work for. The trick so the paneling did not warp from the heat of the cure was a coat of rubber guard And a skim coat of foam If your applying any type of spray foam and it doesnt cure in the first 5 to 10 mins The product is applied wrong Or its a bad batch My R value is around R21 in my SUV. Behind the front seat is a 3-ply curtin which has toggles to keep closed And 2inch foam board And glued canvas with snaps to the window frames Tested last year in winter with only a 600w office mini heater on low I was able to wear a T-shirt inside with alittle chill down my back -34C / -29F outside without windshear factors 14C / 57F inside This was with the front window down a inch to let in the extension cord for the heater Which i fixed this summer with a outlet The out gassing is 95% bleeded off in the first hour of spraying 98% the first day And the 2% is very minimal Your bigger worry would be stuck behind a truck blowing fumes in rush hour
i'm getting a headache just thinking of ALL THE WORK you put into this vid! not only the planned shots...but going through a huge backlog of footage...deciding which to pull...and deciding where to put it!... major props dude! - excited to see how the changes turn out
I am 72 and reclusive, I have tented all my life. 1 retired 12 years ago and spent 6 months in a van in New Zealand, Then 6 months in a tent and hire car Canadian Rockies and Yellowstone. The past 10 years I have lived in a 4 berth tent for 6 to 8 months a year, then go home. I am now selling my home sharing the proceeds with my two sons and will buy and live in a van. I am very excited to do this and very aware of those words go home!! and that I can not go home!!, so before I embark I watch all, you nice peoples videos that are on the negative, thanks
Carol 70-year-old English NATIONALIST - Good for you. But one word of advise. Don't use this design. ;-) Not bashing, but this is one of the worst interpretation of a camper conversion I've seen or do. The Fiat Ducato is base for a vast majority of this size campers. Most pro version have WC, shower, kitchen, plus bed closets, etc. One of my own conversions in the small and older Hyundai H1. Served me,wife and daughter. Had running water, chemical toilet, closets, bed, table, etc. This design in a van this size don't suit one soul and still lack running water, etc. Honestly bad. Cheers PS: Tip if in moderate climate areas keep tanks on underside. ;-) Save tons of space. Battery or batteries also can fit in most cases. That's a huge space saving. ;-)
Carol 70-year-old English NATIONALIST Good luck and clear sky’s to you, Carol. Be safe and spread your love around to all you meet. Your living the dream that most of us only wish.
@@Mark-yb1sp Thank you Master Sergeant., I always think everyone can live the dream, We all live close to beautiful places to visit for a day or take a tent for the weekend. Whatever you like to do, do it, life is less than100 Christmases
When they were 67, my parents moved into an RV for 2 years in 2007. 5 years later they were still on the road and bought another. Then they bought a van. At 79 they split time between the van and the 5th wheel.
This video is invaluable for everybody considering doing something similar. Now everybody can learn from your mistakes. This is what the internet is for.
Absolutely!! So much more helpful than "Look at this slow-mo shot of me drinking coffee, living my perfect life!" That's great and all, and may provide some inspiration, but it doesn't help your viewers at all.
5:44 Ok, so a couple of things I'd recommend. First, replace the AGM/Lead Acid Battery with a 3S Lithium-Ion 18650 Battery Pack. I recommend 3S60P+ (3 series, 60 or more in parallel). More in parallel = higher capacity and higher current handling. The current draw is divided equally among each cell. For example, 30A / 60P = 0.5A draw from each cell. Also, setup a switch to temporarily bypass the BMS for extremely high load applications (my Window AC Unit requires this for initial startup). I use an in-wall style light switch from Lowes. I don't recommend 4S, because you'll need to limit the charge of the battery to 15V (each cell = 3.75V), in order to prevent triggering the inverter's over-voltage protection. And finding a buck converter that can handle more than 350W is pretty much impossible. Second, the solenoid wasn't the problem. 80A is extremely high current, and there's nothing in your van that could ever pull that much power (Aside from the van itself when cranking). You used CCA Wire (Copper Clad Aluminum), which is extremely cheap and tends to melt under sustained loads. Use pure copper, and you should be fine.
Super appreciate hearing what vanners hate about their rides, as I'm planning my own. I've lived in an RV before, so I know what I do and don't want, but designing something custom is a huge responsibility!
No insulation is THE worst idea. U will suffer massively from condensation. Any cold surface + ur warm wet breath ... Well. U will find out. The hard way.
I thought insulation held in the condensation. Without insulation the water will drip or evaporate and not get things moldy. It will encourage you to drive with the seasons.
Even on the hottest day, pick up any object (CD case, glass/mirror - any shiny surfaced object), put it very close to ur mouth and hard exhale on it. Then run ur finger through the surprising ammount of liquid that has condensed on the surface. I think many people have the misconception that this moisture is only present on cold days. It isn't. The cold only acts to crystalize the moisture in to molecules big enough for us to actually see. If u can genuinely follow a weather pattern that is consistantly warm or above, then fine, sure, no insulation MAY work. But for a few hundred pound/dollars u have just FORCED ur lifestyle to obey that rule - or else. Insultaion is a thermic barrier allowing u to control ur internal temp with greater ease, thus HELPING to eliminate this moisture from building up - no matter the outside temp. If u cmpletely remove that barrier, u are subject to EVERYTHING getting wet and staying that way till better weather is afforded to u. I can tell u this. As a child I was forced to sleep ruff for a considerable period, sleep in abandoned cars, etc. At night, when the temp drops dramatically, I suffered immensly. I remember curling up in to a fetal postion and pulling my clothes up over my head so that my warm breath helped to keep me warm. But in a single night, so much moisture is exhaled that I would wake up with damp clothes that only further dropped MY body temp. A single body in such a small, enclosed area is bad enough. But when u add additional bodies, this problem multiplies. You simply CAN NOT stop ur body from exhaling large ammounts of liquid. And any surface that is cold will literally gather that moisture in to fully fledged droplets of water. If ur going to invest so heavily in to a mobile home build ... It seems rather stupid, to me at least, to skimp on something so vital.
@@grimuk3817 If he has wooden panelling in front of the metal interior skin it will reduce the problem and still mean he doesn't need insulation OR a vapour barrier. I'm pretty sure the need for insulation and vapour barriers is exaggerated for van life. Obviously it depends where you go and in cold climates you need insulation but for hot climates like California I'm willing to bet insulation and a vapour barrier would not be needed. You can open all your doors and windows every morning to air your van and get rid of any built up moisture.
@@chatteyj The point being, bud, for a few hundred bucks, u self impose restrictions in regards to the places u can go and what seasons u can go there. Which kind of defeats ur own purpose. And, for me, that makes very little sense. U build a mobile home to go where ever u want to, when ever u feel like it. EDIT: I will concede the possible necessity when in a climate like california - I even said as much in my 2nd post. But not doing something that has marginal cost in relation to the benefit, well, as I said, it makes very little sense to me. But what u also need to consider; if ur living inside a tin can and are subject to extremeties - hot or cold - u have NO WAY to cool that tin can down without burning through ur resources. Yes, an argument could be made that with sunlight in abundance, ur solar set-up would cope. But, again, why not simply ensure ur temp can be controlled in ALL situations. Thermic barriers work both ways. The baking hot sun on metal will roast u and it is precisely the reason why animals die when left in vehicles on very hot days. It is also worth noting that this extreme heat would put an extra load on ur battery when its trying to keep devices like fridge/freezers cool. An AC unit (or what ever cooling device u employ) may also function poorly in such an environment. It is merely food for thought, and each must decide for themselves. But I can't help but think, for the marginal cost, the benefits far out-weigh all other factors. And honestly? Nothing would piss me off more than having to gut my build to put smething in that should have gone in first ... Anyways. Good luck to all who embark on such a freedom of choice. Something I read in another post kinda stuck with me: It may be a tiny home, but the whole world is ur back yard ...
My steel boat is uninsulated other than some cheap carpet stuck on the inside, I've been living aboard (in the UK) since January and had no condensation problems at all. It was fucking freezing getting up for work at 4am if the wood burner had gone out but it wasn't damp. I will be insulating it, but to control the temps not the condensation, I suspect having good airflow and not using gas to heat the place helps a lot.
the question i watned to ask was... why didnt he just get a box truck with more virtical storage and depending on the bed length even more lenght wise storage. you would isntantly at least double the space. and you could probbobly have a bathroom and a clostet in one
I really appreciate your list of things you don't like / want to improve. Too many videos only go over the positives and rarely cover aspects of van-life that can be challenging. Honestly, this vid has helped me understand more of what I need to do to tackle van life. Thanks again for the content!
Thumbs up for your honesty. Lot of people in videos explain, why their build is the best, altough you can see, that they are wasting space, have walls made of literaly ton of wood etc. Thank you for your self reflection!
Minivan. Remove mid and rear seats. 4x8 sheet of plywood (painted to match interior color) Cut and hinged rear section not access the "dwell" where rear seats flipped into. 3 elongated milk crates fit nicely and add support to the hinged lid. Next, built a platform just tall enough whee I could sit on the 8" mattress while I reclined a bit (explain later). That platform occupied the rear to the edge of the sliding doors. Cut and double hinged it. Front section hides my clothes nicely stored in packing cubes - able to sort and toss around a full rolling suitcase worth of very organized clothes. Rear section of the hinged platform lifts up and locks into place using spring-loaded wooden legs. Thai allows me to sit on my bouch (bed/couch) - hence the height reason mentioned earlier. When I'm couch mode the rear portion is up - in that area I have an under-bed rolling plastic 6" tall four-foot long little organizer for my electronics, cables etc....all in packing cubes. I can pull out the organizer as one piece and lift the dwell to access my 3 elongated milk crates. *Space between them keeps my jumper cables - "Justin Case" and a change of sheets & pillow cases in alternate each wash day. 3 elongated milk crates hold a lot when you use packing cubes. I put stuff down there that I need but don't need daily. Back inside I have the left (driver side) nicely organized (ha ha ha) with 3 elongated milk crates that stores dry food, toiletries and other whackadooldles I need daily. Under the seating of the front portion (that's in the middle of the van) I have a hinged extension board that sits on top of the milk crates and allows me to stretch out fully at night (6 1 with kermit the frog legs). The extra cushion pillow I keep on the couch during day (butt pad sometimes) nicely fits into the extension board and makes it a FULL/DOUBLE bed length. The area behind the passenger seat is left open for accessing in & out of van or climbing into front seat or...for my 55lb dog when she decides that I roll around too much at night. I use weight absorbing foam standing pads as the floor base because knees on plywood sucks at 3am.... or any time. I have a "guy bathroom" container tucked away between the milk crates and dollar store sanitization hand wipes in every damn corner of this van. Very humble cooler about the size of 2 gallons of milk to use as cooler when I get anything that requires a chill to stay fresh (buy cold food daily!) *That will become a basic plug in cooler because finding ice and the little ice container I use makes the cooler a very occasional use item. Van windows are tinted. But for good measure, I painted them on the inside - nice sandy tab color - because my bedroom needs no view. Side mirrors of minivan work great. Left side, driver, sliding door window is always covered by a solid piece of cream colored fabric Because I rarely open that side. THIS IS WHY A CARGO VAN WOULD BE HELPFUL. The right side window is covered by a dark blue fabric that's dark yet visible for me to see through from inside but not vice versa. Same fabric drapes the headrests of the front seats - I'm low and can see from the bed out the front window but that fabric is dark and the slanted angle keeps ppl from seeing in. Very simplistic, rudementarty set-up but it works so well. 4 months in florida while working a temporary event job. Shower at the aquatic center ($35/mo) because my gym was a 15-20min drive away. 2.5 months back in the van - I had a Covid hideout for 3 months - and I feel cozy and fiscally thrifty. No lease. No roommates. No anti-dog policies. "I hear a light rrrrr when ppl get too close. I've seen her smack the driver window when someone tried to say hi (tint allows me to be inside and ppl can't see in) I'll upgrade to larger when it's the right van. But for $2k purchase, $180 in build materials and $600 in basic repairs (brakes & tires) over the last full year, I've found I have a cozy retreat that travels and is soccer mom stealth. Even had trouble finding it in parking lot!! It's a blender.
I think the problem with windows is the heat build up in summer and loss in winter. For stealth roof windows are better. Try living in a van without insulation for a few days and you might change your mind. Living in a metal box can be very hot or cold!
Exactly! And that fiberglass insulation won't do any harm once it's sealed in the walls; millions of houses have fiberglass insulation. It's the installing (and then removing it) that is dangerous to breath. He's making the whole insulation issue way more complicated than it should be.
You can get a pump for the water jugs. And for washing dishes. I use the new spray dawn. Scrub with paper towel. Rinse with squirter bottle. Wipe out with paper towel. No running water needed.
I totally agree, it has been awhile since I watched The Singletrack Sampler, big improvement on the production, storytelling and overall quality of the video. Great job!
Already looking forward to the next video. Thanks for showing the reality of living on the road full time Alex. Glad you have some amazing skilled friend who could help you fix the problem areas of the van
You bring so much frustration, learned knowlege . . . to such a 'life experience.' Sharing it with others, makes it better, for the Van Build community !
No the insulation does it’s job. I’ve had an uninsulated van and it was a fridge in the cold and a radiating heater in the summer. I’d advise you to reconsider lol
No 🧢 I have always wondered what it looks like when I peak out the back window in Walmart in the van .lol Get some crazy noises that go on at Walmart 2:30 AM on a Tuesday fr .
A technique never really discussed, but highly effective, is to bedline the entire interior before starting construction. This will provide a big amount of sound deadening, but more importantly, add the very important vapor barrier to control moisture. You can also now not worry about insulation getting damp and growing mold. You can get two gallons for under $100 and roll it on yourself.
a vapor barrier on the outter layer will do nothing to stop moisture as the moisture is coming from his breath. All a vapor barrier does is stop the warm indoor air from hitting the outdoor cold air causing it to condense on or in the walls. spray foam would give him a vapor barrier plus provide insulation. Add a layer of reflectex and you could heat it with a candle.
@@adamadamik3753 we are talking about hardware which is quite strictly you get what you pay for... basically comment above implies that the OP has made a poor choice of a tool drawer and is now complaining (as expected). Instead, could have gotten a SUITABLE for his needs tool box or make a point about a poor choice rather than just saying "ah this tool box is bad"
@@simeon324 I think the point was that the storage accessible from the inside is not properly thought through, and that more hooks are always welcomed.
Enjoyable funny guy! I've just started on my van build, an empty GMC Savana 2500 cargo van, and really enjoying doing the build myself. I'll get to know my van intimately ;) Presently I have it set up for overland camping. After 60+ years of backpacking worldwide, I've got gear to fully equip the van end to end...just added a refrigerator. It is so much fun and a dream will become reality within the next year or sooner, depending on a commitment result.
Alex, an easy tap and sink you can use is a washing tub, and a camping water sack. It can hang on the wall and has a tube to get water out of, it also has a filter so u can get water from anywhere and drink it fresh. It’s not to expensive and are really useful.👍
cover the windows with wood insulate between the two and cut a small slot with a slider on it to still have a way to peek out of all of them and slide closed for privacy.
Great video. This is just as (if not more) helpful than seeing what does work well. Glad I found this one first, looking forward to catching up on the renovation ones next!
With the water situation look up a pump faucet its usb charging batt powered switch pump and battery all in one run a line to your tank and your done cost about 20 dollars amazing solution
Compost toilet, grow food? small dehumidifier use the water on plants. Dap white, marshmallow foam insulation. wash board. Clear storage. Buy a better inverter (Solaredge). change a laptop for a tablet. replace windows w/ sheet metal. reduce weight and increase comfort. replace some wood w/ hollow plastic fence posts. Get wool everything; no smell and dries fast. Miss anything?? I'm n spartanburg 54 miles from Asheville.
Clear storage is a great suggestion! The others, too. Except... How would he edit his videos on a tablet? That's solid: No-Go, like TheClunkingFist said previously.
Save an empty disposable water bottle to spit into then u can trash it later whenever ur near a trash can... Use the now empty one that u were getting ur rinse water from for the next one to use... Or ya know rinse and repeat after a quick slosh with soaoy water then vinegar. . ive also used an empty McD large drink cup and disposed when finished but that occupies a cup holder at least with an empty Water bottle it has a leakproof screw on cap... If u buy a small 6pack u can clean up with a fresh bottle.. Wash hands etc. Kepp a spray bottle of water and a spray bottle of vinegar for dishes. Wipe as much debris away w paper towels. Then wet a papertowel and put a drop or two of dish detergent "wash" ur dish (over a trash can so dirty papertowels inside catch any drips then spray clean with spray water bottle followed by spray of vinegar then wipe dry and put away.. Can still remain stealthy...thats how i did it in my van... Then u can dispose of trash in trash somewhere or if camping u can put the paper products on the campfire...
@@thecloneguyz its overloading. The ground strap your talking about is a non issue. That would only be for mitigating static electricity. Space shuddles don't use ground straps after all
1. Mentality. Depends on what you want. Don't be ashamed, or hold back on your imaginations, and desires. Just be honest with yourself, make sure you know exactly what you want, and be accepting of how much that exact dream will cost. Note the dollar amount, not how you feel about the dollar amount. Don't think that you can't have something because the technology for it doesn't exist, or because it's too expensive etcetera. Just be confident in your dreams, and know exactly what your dreams are, and them look at the cost separately. And here's a big one; Don't think that certain things are so simple that you won't need to do any research on them. You can save so much money, and hassle by simply asking if there's another way to do the things you think are already simple enough. 2. Windows. You were right in that based on your lifestyle, you don't need windows as much. Mounting hidden infrared CCTV cameras around the van, and having a viewing display mounted somewhere in the van would be enough for you if you prefer to be unseen, while still being able to peak outside. 3. Insulation. What I see different in your experience with insulation, is that you were conflicted, and changed types half way through the build. I would say having some insulation, whatever kind, is always better than having none at all. Though this largely depends on the type of build, and what you want to do with it, in my case I want to build out a Chevy G20 conversion van, and I know they already come with fiberglass insulation, but because of my build type, regardless of how degraded, or harmful it might be, (btw how exactly is it a poor choice for the van?) I have no plans to change it because it will be sufficient for me. I will only change and insulate the floor. I would say to get around issues associated with both insulation, and moisture barriers, you should focus more on your power system. If you could power systems that regulate climate, and air quality in the van, then you can rely less on the passive insulation of the vehicle that tends to be less capable and reliable. This also eliminates the need for a rooftop fan that blows your cover no pun intended, that you love so much. A humidifier, dehumidifier, AC system, heating system, air purifier, etcetera. Active systems where the only demand could be electricity, and that can simply be a question of how decent your power setup is. 4. Electrical. I'm surprised at your power setup. It's incredibly minuscule, I mean it's fine for what you use it for, but it's small for a van build in general. I think it's the smallest power setup of any van I've ever seen. Though you never touched on the inverter say get a big fat one like 3500 watts continuous and up. I personally want 5k or 6k continuous for my setup. I often suggest people get a good sized power bank. Your 300w solar is just fine, and your 200 amp isolator is just fine as well, but I often tell folks to try to rely on a good size power bank, and lithium type batteries in particular. Nothing beats Li-Po. "Calb Cam" batteries, or "Nissan Leaf EV modules" are fantastic, and I want to use them for my VB. They're stupid cheap, ridiculously big capacity, and stupid light! Idk why you complain about cost when you spend over $350, on a single 100 ah battery, that weighs 70+lbs!! When a two Nissan Leaf battery modules, are 128 ah, and weigh 16 LBS!!! For like $160 bucks!! ...Granted they are harder to install, but once they're set up, they're good!! The Calb Cam batteries are more expensive but they're worth it if you have the money! Two calb cam 72s' are 144 ah! @ only 8 LBS!! But for around $300, which for you is actually a steal!! So there's no comparison, or excuse for not having a descent bank to power your world. I personally want a $1,600 dollar, 1,280 AH!! power bank on my VB. So I could care less about solar, or an isolator (not that I wouldn't have them). 5. Storage. You have more things in a van then I think I've ever seen, and that's not a critique, that's just an opinionated perspective. Nothing wrong with that just, wow. I can't help you there. Just depends on what you want to do there sir. That's just a lot of stuff to put in a van bro. Nice work bench though. I like that. 6. Cloths. I see this a lot, and it goes right back to your power system again. If you have ample power, there are a few very small dorm-room/table-top washing machines, and clothes dryers, that use a regular 110v plug, but don't require formal plumbing hookups. There's a 5.5 lbs washing machine (one I'll probably use in my VB) that has a spin cycle that drains water off the cloths almost dry but not dry. From there you could hang them to dry, but I'd rather use one of the many portable clothes dryers. They're so small you can fit them inside any van, and they dry cloths faster than hanging them because they're powered, and have blowers. I personally like the dinky little collapsible Air-o-dry, because it's so compact. But you don't need any plumbing, or hvac, like in motorhomes, or in houses. So in a lot of ways it's actually better. 7. Running water. Okay first of all there's nothing wrong with not having running water in the van. This is a tough one and I'm probably going to have to make a video for it. You have to rethink the way you do things, and you can't expect a van to be exactly like a house no matter how outfitted it is. It doesn't have to be a loss. Sometimes not having plumbing is a serious gain. If you can complete the same tasks you would in a house without the exact same fixtures as a house, then you simply don't need them. For instance, brushing teeth, idk what you were thinking sir, but just because you don't have running water, doesn't mean you don't need a sink. And a sink doesn't need running water to be functional. This is why it so heavily depends on what you want. Do you want functionality, or nostalgia? Because a 5 gal bucket will do. I say showering is always better done outside no matter the climate, especially if it's done right. If there's anything that makes something luxurious, it's the functionality, and having the room, spaciousness. Something you simply cannot get on the inside of a van no matter how expensive, or high quality the amenities are. So you're on the right track with your bathroom setup but it's missing some key functionalities to make work right and be awesome. Those are a basin (could be a bucket), a shower stall, and a faucet. You seem to be concerned with stealth, but spitting out of your van does nothing to blow your cover, nor does it have anything to do with having running water. But if you insist then for a basin, a bucket, or more traditional sink is just fine. For a shower, believe it or not, you do need privacy, and protection from the elements. To get that, a portable popup privacy tent, most of which are larger than indoor showers on RVs, work just fine. To get the flow of your water, there's at least two good ways. You can use a "sea to summit pocket shower", which can also be used as a faucet for your sink with that bucket, or any inventive configuration that you see fit, or you could copy the countertop design from CycleCruza's moto van build. He uses a 7 gal water jug, 110v water heating element in the jug, 12v water pump, and a shower head on a hose. Then mounts them under a countertop at the rear of his van, to shower with in that same popup privacy tent. While this is somewhat plumbed, it's rather easily removed, and extremely versatile. For colder climates you could use an ice melting floor mat, and duct 4 inch flex piping from a heater to the base of that tent to simulate radiant heating in the shower. To ice the cake no pun intended, I prefer the portable collapsing toilet, but your 5 gal bucket works just fine in the popup tent. And a portable pee pot for liquids. This setup outdoes big luxury motorhomes, and even my house because there is no plumbing to be flushed, just kitty litter for solids, and chemicals for the pee pot. It's versatile, mobile, self sufficient, self sustaining, and there's no loss of functionality or sanitation. Nothing you can't do bro.
You should try a VW T25 syncro. They are all 4x4 and they are a great project to work on. Or a Mercedes sprinter they are large and can fit a toilet and water plus heating
I tried to tell you to get a Lithium Battery for your van when you and Seth first built it. The AGM batteries wear out and suck at power delivery. You need to build a Lithium Iron phosphate power bank.
The problem with Lithium iron phosphate batteries is cold weather. They don’t charge if it’s below freezing. No problem if you’re spending the winter in the desert but if you’re a skier or living part time in cold places LiFePh are an issue. AGM are excellent, you just need to have enough capacity so you don’t drain them less than 50% of full charge. I have 310 amp-hours of AGM and have never seen my state of charge less than 90% even running a fridge, diesel heater, lights, etc. Alex just needs more battery storage.
@@scnomad3626 LiFePO4 is actually more cold tolerant than any other lithium battery. And you can blanket your LiFeO4 and put a basic blanket heater on them. If it's warm enough for you in the van, then it's warm enough for LiFePO4.
Dude, I really liked this video. I've been watching van build videos for over a year. I really appreciate the honesty of your look back. The window/insulation/privacy issues are making me rethink my present ideas. Great job and stay happy. It can't be that bad with 2,750,000 views. ✌
I can relate to the brushing teeth thing, especially when its raining heavy. It really gets to you over time I used to have no insulation on the roof and would frequently get woken up by condensation collecting and dripping on me
While Carbon dust/fibre is a known carcinogen when inhaled, fiberglass is as of yet a potential carcinogen (it's on the watchlist because of it has similar structure to carbon fibre and asbestos, but there are no data supporting it being carcinogenic) It's relatively easy to avoid breathing in glass fibre and the worst it really does to your skin is irritation. Just for perspective, wood dust is a known carcinogen.
18650's are the smart choice for batteries. You can easily find room for you to literally drive your car on the battery. Also you can replace individual cells when they go instead of the entire battery.
The person who thinks you can build the perfect camper first time in has another thing coming. A shakedown will already reveal issues and you might end up changing the whole thing. To have someone with experience in something like this is invaluable. The other thing I would recommend to have in your list of things for ANY camper is: a FIRE drill/plan. Make sure you have TWO fire extinguishers, two medium size, don't even bother with them tiny ones. Put one inside the cabin accessible by the driver and the other one preferably outside, but in the back is ok too. ALSO, keep all you valuables and survival items close and ready. So that in case of a fire, you can evacuate the vehicle and pull stuff out quickly without thinking. Just saying, it can safe your life some day! Great video, thanks for sharing!!! Currently doing research for my mini van project :) Insulation is also one of my topics, I think mainly noise as well. Just insulate large surfaces and don't bother with the rest.
Worked on Cars And Vans/trucks in bodyshops over 30 years to understand how many of them rust And i will break it down to as short as i can..Anything water touches it carries it or go's around it Have you ever had to pick out pine needles and leaves from the back of your hood where the fresh air vents are And your wipers? Yup carried by water ..Now In every nook and cranny Dirt has been pushed into it And over the days weeks months years It collects to a fine mud ..Mud takes longer to dry than plain water Add in a acidic Ph level to the mix And you have a Paint softener Water bubbles form under the paint making rust spots Inside Vans Adding in fibreglass And foam boards Still leaves a Air gap And with Air you have Vapor Even with a Vapor barrier Once more fibreglass Holds water The glass don't rot But things around it will Gravity will pull the water down into wheel wells and body panels Some Trucks Cars Have foam already installed as sound deadener The Jimmy And Blazers from the 90's into the 2000's Are famous for this And rust out quicker in the panel bottom just behind the door Behind it is a gap of foam And it rust all around it And the type of foam is open cell (Not made for water) As i live in Canada Extreme temps do happen First thing i done after i stripped my SUV to metal was Used 9 tall cans of Rocker rubberized guard to about 1 inch- 1 1/2 inches of rubber every where inside behind the front seats (Keeps the paint rust free And stops the heat from the sprayfoam curing From warping panels of the van due to heat Added plus is it turns part of the rubber guard into a glue Then hardends) Then my furring strips And my wiring in small PVC tubing for a 2nd battery And lighting etc Then 2 full inches of Closed cell spray foam from a pro company (cheaper to find them on a job site and pull up early morning as they set up for a house) I let the truck breath for a few hours before i drove it home At home I kept the windows open And let it "Vent" for 24hrs But even driving home it wasnt a issue The PVC idea is so if i need to remove or Add a wire I do not have to dig out foam to do it A million people will tell you Spray foam vents "Off-gas" And will give you a list of problems to your body Which is not true And is true..Bottom line is : Spray foam will give you the same amount of off gas As it would say Driving behind another car in traffic And your stuck at a red light Or the off gas of all the plastic And chemicals that makes your van while its sitting in the sun And lastly I never have had a issue of rust Or sweating in the truck And with extra thick window covers And a thick drape across the back of the front seat A small plug in office heater "Foot warmer" There is a 20 degree diffrence outside to inside
this was not only well made, but very informative.... and that toilet reenactment was gold! (at least i hope it was a reenactment) lol. great video man, can't wait for the next one.
Too much current draw from that one battery ,you cooked the solenoid so hard it melted that post into the plastic. That insulation would have gone up like a bonfire when those overloaded cables heated up. Electrical ,even in low voltage is not a guessing game ,gotta be careful mate. Good video ,every project brings new afterthoughts.
I booted the sidewall of one of my tires with a 2"x2" piece of duct tape last year and its still holding up great. I replaced the sealant a few months ago and checked the tape while doing so, still looked good and haven't had any leakage from that tear.
5:51 that posts "kinda" discolored? Bro! That solenoid is straight up melted 😯 Need to change that electrical system a little. You're pulling a few more amps then that thing should handle 👍👍
@@hhiippiittyy Well solenoid has two meanings, the more common use for it is to describe a coil of wire that creates a magnetic field when voltage is applied, and then used to attract a metal object (usually a rod) towards the coil. Used to flip switches and close valves and stuff. The one I would imagine they are talking about is similar, but is more commonly called an inductor. Its usually as a kind of energy storage device for ac power supplies to produce DC current. The inductor (or solenoid in this case) supplies a steady current to the circuit during the switching periods of the AC current that is supplying power.
I'm currently designing my own van conversion project for full time living, I'll start actually building in once the Ford Transit all electric comes out in late 2021, but your feedback has been invaluable! thank you so much for having uploaded this! big kudos to you!
Very well done..I was debating Van Life or Tiny Home....going for Tiny Home...so thank you for your honesty and I beleive you have the talent to make documentries you made it interesting enough for me to stayed glued to the screen
My first van is a VW Caddy short wheel base, commercial version with air-conditioning, power steering, DSG, and 1.9 TDI. It's great on diesel but I don't have much space. I've got a bed and a cabinet I built. I insulated the van, made the bed and cabinet, and put a floor in. Solo camping in it is fine.
Why not use some 1 way mirror film on your windows so you can see out but nobody can see in? A motorised and hinged mount for your solar panel coupled with a programmable controller could have you get more out of your panel by having it automatically point and track at closest to the optimum angle. You'll need to lock it down when you're on the move. As for hot water, solar water heaters are pretty easy to make, and a drainback system could be made with a solar pump and a small vented tank. You'll need level switches since you need to manually fill the system off grid.
Ive been a car audio installer for 22 years, as soon as i saw that wiring to the solenoid it looks like the crappy cca (copper clad aluminum) wire that we pull out all the time and see if create fires. Make sure you always use ofc wiring. Not saying yours is cca but thats exactly what it does, corrodes, and causes heat because it arcs out and then inevitably can catch fire. Love the van setup. Thinking about building one for myself.
Although not having running water is a pain, you could do what Seth did for his pickup truck camper and use a pressurised beer thing and a plain metal bowl. Although you will have to empty it all the time, it would be pretty useful and not compromise counter space
I must have gotten this in my feed because of watching Tucker Gott (also a van life dude) and thought, "Why? this doesn't apply to me...in any way, from demographics, to ideology, politics, nor hair styles." Then again, I just spent 6+ weeks in the motorhome and was drawn into your fantastic editing of some really great footage, coupled with tips and advice. Looking forward to more. Sub earned!
Paint flames on the solar pannel to make it go faster
Makes sense
Genius
Yeah, this is big brain time
This guy is using 100% of brain power
that’s some big pp energy right there
You should add a basement in case of a tornado
And a watch tower to look out for criminal activities
boi u got me good
Don’t forget the bat signal in case you find criminal activity
Lol
It's a van
A thin layer of dust can reduce your solar panels effectiveness by 30%, you have to constantly clean them it helps out alot if your battery bank is able to sustain your consumption 😊 hope this helps!
don't rain do the job?
@@Proeliens and when it doesn't rain much ? Like, I don't know, in summer?
@@alexandredesfontaines5861 i mean not only rain can remove dust when you are moving the vehical around the wind will most probably blow it away
@@Proeliens nah it doesn't get blown away. I've had desert dust and pollen on my solar panels on my camper for hundreds of miles. Gotta wipe it now and then
@@Proeliens Car washes wouldn't be a thing if highway winds were enough to keep a vehicle's surfaces clean. Solar panels are no different.
People make a huge deal about how you don’t want to end up living in your car, but when done right it’s pretty dope
This is not a car. BIG difference.
I don’t see why you need to go into technicalities, as I’m sure you understood what I was referring to.
Idiots point out technicalities to make themselves feel smart and important.
@@asherclasher but it is a really big difference so yea. Also i never heard anyone say dont end up living in your van. They are very expensive
@@jebavjeb I have, and that's really all that matters in a comment written by me. Also it really isn't a big difference; don't comment just to be a prick.
Not insulating is a real bad Idea. I used the same foam board closed cell spray foam. Before and After is a huge difference. It still gets as hot as a car but with insulation you can manage the climate much better. No Question.
@@humbledb4jesus Spray foam doesn't set up in the closed area. I know, I used a bit, and a week later poking into the middle of it is was still goo. And it's outgassing toxic forever... into your living space.... that you breathe... I ended up using Polyiso board, 1/2" is 3.9, and 3/4" is 4.5 R factor, came out much better.
It also really helps with noise reduction
@@brianmi40 idk what you did. But the spray foam I used was hard a rock with a day. I did 2 inches all the way around my van
@@brianmi40 I used 2.5" of closed cell spray foam from a company i use to do weekend work for. The trick so the paneling did not warp from the heat of the cure was a coat of rubber guard And a skim coat of foam If your applying any type of spray foam and it doesnt cure in the first 5 to 10 mins The product is applied wrong Or its a bad batch My R value is around R21 in my SUV. Behind the front seat is a 3-ply curtin which has toggles to keep closed And 2inch foam board And glued canvas with snaps to the window frames Tested last year in winter with only a 600w office mini heater on low I was able to wear a T-shirt inside with alittle chill down my back -34C / -29F outside without windshear factors 14C / 57F inside This was with the front window down a inch to let in the extension cord for the heater Which i fixed this summer with a outlet The out gassing is 95% bleeded off in the first hour of spraying 98% the first day And the 2% is very minimal Your bigger worry would be stuck behind a truck blowing fumes in rush hour
So do you need a vapor barrier?
i'm getting a headache just thinking of ALL THE WORK you put into this vid! not only the planned shots...but going through a huge backlog of footage...deciding which to pull...and deciding where to put it!...
major props dude! - excited to see how the changes turn out
He did well was definitely a good clip to watch
I am 72 and reclusive, I have tented all my life.
1 retired 12 years ago and spent 6 months in a van in New Zealand, Then 6 months in a tent and hire car Canadian Rockies and Yellowstone.
The past 10 years I have lived in a 4 berth tent for 6 to 8 months a year, then go home.
I am now selling my home sharing the proceeds with my two sons and will buy and live in a van.
I am very excited to do this and very aware of those words go home!! and that I can not go home!!, so before I embark I watch all, you nice peoples
videos that are on the negative, thanks
Carol 70-year-old English NATIONALIST
- Good for you. But one word of advise. Don't use this design. ;-)
Not bashing, but this is one of the worst interpretation of a camper conversion I've seen or do. The Fiat Ducato is base for a vast majority of this size campers. Most pro version have WC, shower, kitchen, plus bed closets, etc.
One of my own conversions in the small and older Hyundai H1. Served me,wife and daughter. Had running water, chemical toilet, closets, bed, table, etc.
This design in a van this size don't suit one soul and still lack running water, etc.
Honestly bad.
Cheers
PS: Tip if in moderate climate areas keep tanks on underside. ;-) Save tons of space. Battery or batteries also can fit in most cases. That's a huge space saving. ;-)
Carol 70-year-old English NATIONALIST Good luck and clear sky’s to you, Carol. Be safe and spread your love around to all you meet. Your living the dream that most of us only wish.
@@Mark-yb1sp Thank you Master Sergeant., I always think everyone can live the dream, We all live close to beautiful places to visit for a day or take a tent for the weekend.
Whatever you like to do, do it, life is less than100 Christmases
When they were 67, my parents moved into an RV for 2 years in 2007. 5 years later they were still on the road and bought another. Then they bought a van.
At 79 they split time between the van and the 5th wheel.
@@charliecundiff what does 5th wheel mean?
Seth is a seriously knowledgable, project-oriented dude. An awesome friend to have, for sure!
everyone needs a Seth
Félix en velo definitely!! 😂😂
my thoughts exactly. dude has infinite skills it seems
And he knows how to flop slap a bear!
+1 for seth
I find build mistake videos more helpful than the build videos themselves
This video is invaluable for everybody considering doing something similar. Now everybody can learn from your mistakes. This is what the internet is for.
Absolutely!! So much more helpful than "Look at this slow-mo shot of me drinking coffee, living my perfect life!" That's great and all, and may provide some inspiration, but it doesn't help your viewers at all.
i thought the internet was for porn
@@Curiousnessify god dammit
5:44 Ok, so a couple of things I'd recommend.
First, replace the AGM/Lead Acid Battery with a 3S Lithium-Ion 18650 Battery Pack. I recommend 3S60P+ (3 series, 60 or more in parallel). More in parallel = higher capacity and higher current handling.
The current draw is divided equally among each cell. For example, 30A / 60P = 0.5A draw from each cell.
Also, setup a switch to temporarily bypass the BMS for extremely high load applications (my Window AC Unit requires this for initial startup). I use an in-wall style light switch from Lowes.
I don't recommend 4S, because you'll need to limit the charge of the battery to 15V (each cell = 3.75V), in order to prevent triggering the inverter's over-voltage protection. And finding a buck converter that can handle more than 350W is pretty much impossible.
Second, the solenoid wasn't the problem. 80A is extremely high current, and there's nothing in your van that could ever pull that much power (Aside from the van itself when cranking).
You used CCA Wire (Copper Clad Aluminum), which is extremely cheap and tends to melt under sustained loads. Use pure copper, and you should be fine.
Have you never heard of curtains? I don’t know, maybe I’m being too obvious, but yeah curtains.
Shut up Ronnie
I also think so. Why the reflectives foil?
@@pazmiki77 Shut up michael!
Zx hans, by reflecting the sunlight, it stops the van from getting super hot in the sun
Zx Hans it reflects sunlight to control the temperature
5:45 “we found the culprit to all my electrical problems”
*pans to Seth*
🤣
Super appreciate hearing what vanners hate about their rides, as I'm planning my own. I've lived in an RV before, so I know what I do and don't want, but designing something custom is a huge responsibility!
Your voice is perfect for movies when they do a call back to an event or there childhood.
PMSL
No insulation is THE worst idea. U will suffer massively from condensation. Any cold surface + ur warm wet breath ... Well. U will find out.
The hard way.
I thought insulation held in the condensation. Without insulation the water will drip or evaporate and not get things moldy. It will encourage you to drive with the seasons.
Even on the hottest day, pick up any object (CD case, glass/mirror - any shiny surfaced object), put it very close to ur mouth and hard exhale on it. Then run ur finger through the surprising ammount of liquid that has condensed on the surface. I think many people have the misconception that this moisture is only present on cold days. It isn't. The cold only acts to crystalize the moisture in to molecules big enough for us to actually see. If u can genuinely follow a weather pattern that is consistantly warm or above, then fine, sure, no insulation MAY work. But for a few hundred pound/dollars u have just FORCED ur lifestyle to obey that rule - or else.
Insultaion is a thermic barrier allowing u to control ur internal temp with greater ease, thus HELPING to eliminate this moisture from building up - no matter the outside temp. If u cmpletely remove that barrier, u are subject to EVERYTHING getting wet and staying that way till better weather is afforded to u.
I can tell u this. As a child I was forced to sleep ruff for a considerable period, sleep in abandoned cars, etc. At night, when the temp drops dramatically, I suffered immensly. I remember curling up in to a fetal postion and pulling my clothes up over my head so that my warm breath helped to keep me warm. But in a single night, so much moisture is exhaled that I would wake up with damp clothes that only further dropped MY body temp. A single body in such a small, enclosed area is bad enough. But when u add additional bodies, this problem multiplies.
You simply CAN NOT stop ur body from exhaling large ammounts of liquid. And any surface that is cold will literally gather that moisture in to fully fledged droplets of water. If ur going to invest so heavily in to a mobile home build ... It seems rather stupid, to me at least, to skimp on something so vital.
@@grimuk3817 If he has wooden panelling in front of the metal interior skin it will reduce the problem and still mean he doesn't need insulation OR a vapour barrier. I'm pretty sure the need for insulation and vapour barriers is exaggerated for van life. Obviously it depends where you go and in cold climates you need insulation but for hot climates like California I'm willing to bet insulation and a vapour barrier would not be needed. You can open all your doors and windows every morning to air your van and get rid of any built up moisture.
@@chatteyj The point being, bud, for a few hundred bucks, u self impose restrictions in regards to the places u can go and what seasons u can go there. Which kind of defeats ur own purpose. And, for me, that makes very little sense. U build a mobile home to go where ever u want to, when ever u feel like it.
EDIT: I will concede the possible necessity when in a climate like california - I even said as much in my 2nd post. But not doing something that has marginal cost in relation to the benefit, well, as I said, it makes very little sense to me. But what u also need to consider; if ur living inside a tin can and are subject to extremeties - hot or cold - u have NO WAY to cool that tin can down without burning through ur resources. Yes, an argument could be made that with sunlight in abundance, ur solar set-up would cope. But, again, why not simply ensure ur temp can be controlled in ALL situations. Thermic barriers work both ways. The baking hot sun on metal will roast u and it is precisely the reason why animals die when left in vehicles on very hot days. It is also worth noting that this extreme heat would put an extra load on ur battery when its trying to keep devices like fridge/freezers cool. An AC unit (or what ever cooling device u employ) may also function poorly in such an environment.
It is merely food for thought, and each must decide for themselves. But I can't help but think, for the marginal cost, the benefits far out-weigh all other factors. And honestly? Nothing would piss me off more than having to gut my build to put smething in that should have gone in first ...
Anyways. Good luck to all who embark on such a freedom of choice.
Something I read in another post kinda stuck with me:
It may be a tiny home, but the whole world is ur back yard ...
My steel boat is uninsulated other than some cheap carpet stuck on the inside, I've been living aboard (in the UK) since January and had no condensation problems at all. It was fucking freezing getting up for work at 4am if the wood burner had gone out but it wasn't damp. I will be insulating it, but to control the temps not the condensation, I suspect having good airflow and not using gas to heat the place helps a lot.
I really like the montage, the fact that you filmed all of the situations u don't like... awesome.
the question i watned to ask was... why didnt he just get a box truck with more virtical storage and depending on the bed length even more lenght wise storage. you would isntantly at least double the space. and you could probbobly have a bathroom and a clostet in one
ChillingCap8365 he hints a lot that he likes something casual and stealthy, a box truck would look tacky and get peoples attention more
If your looking for a place for your remotes ( such as the LED light remote or other things ) TRY VELCRO!!!!
You're
or a fabric shoe rack
LOVE that you are sharing and admitting things you have learned along the way, thank you!
I really appreciate your list of things you don't like / want to improve. Too many videos only go over the positives and rarely cover aspects of van-life that can be challenging. Honestly, this vid has helped me understand more of what I need to do to tackle van life. Thanks again for the content!
No insulation is great if you don't plan to go wear it's cold. I nearly froze to death sleeping in a non-insulated van.
CO auto cutoff propane catalytic heater and pro sleeping blanket.
Where* but yeah it’ll be cold
a good sleeping bag does wonders... not really any need for insulation imo
Your vids are so well edited, I dont even want to know how much hassle you go through to set up 2 second shots just to flow the video. Great job man!
I love the humor, and the honesty. Thanks for sharing both.
Thumbs up for your honesty. Lot of people in videos explain, why their build is the best, altough you can see, that they are wasting space, have walls made of literaly ton of wood etc. Thank you for your self reflection!
Minivan.
Remove mid and rear seats.
4x8 sheet of plywood (painted to match interior color)
Cut and hinged rear section not access the "dwell" where rear seats flipped into.
3 elongated milk crates fit nicely and add support to the hinged lid.
Next, built a platform just tall enough whee I could sit on the 8" mattress while I reclined a bit (explain later).
That platform occupied the rear to the edge of the sliding doors.
Cut and double hinged it.
Front section hides my clothes nicely stored in packing cubes - able to sort and toss around a full rolling suitcase worth of very organized clothes.
Rear section of the hinged platform lifts up and locks into place using spring-loaded wooden legs.
Thai allows me to sit on my bouch (bed/couch) - hence the height reason mentioned earlier.
When I'm couch mode the rear portion is up - in that area I have an under-bed rolling plastic 6" tall four-foot long little organizer for my electronics, cables etc....all in packing cubes.
I can pull out the organizer as one piece and lift the dwell to access my 3 elongated milk crates.
*Space between them keeps my jumper cables - "Justin Case" and a change of sheets & pillow cases in alternate each wash day.
3 elongated milk crates hold a lot when you use packing cubes.
I put stuff down there that I need but don't need daily.
Back inside I have the left (driver side) nicely organized (ha ha ha) with 3 elongated milk crates that stores dry food, toiletries and other whackadooldles I need daily.
Under the seating of the front portion (that's in the middle of the van) I have a hinged extension board that sits on top of the milk crates and allows me to stretch out fully at night (6 1 with kermit the frog legs).
The extra cushion pillow I keep on the couch during day (butt pad sometimes) nicely fits into the extension board and makes it a FULL/DOUBLE bed length.
The area behind the passenger seat is left open for accessing in & out of van or climbing into front seat or...for my 55lb dog when she decides that I roll around too much at night.
I use weight absorbing foam standing pads as the floor base because knees on plywood sucks at 3am.... or any time.
I have a "guy bathroom" container tucked away between the milk crates and dollar store sanitization hand wipes in every damn corner of this van.
Very humble cooler about the size of 2 gallons of milk to use as cooler when I get anything that requires a chill to stay fresh (buy cold food daily!)
*That will become a basic plug in cooler because finding ice and the little ice container I use makes the cooler a very occasional use item.
Van windows are tinted.
But for good measure, I painted them on the inside - nice sandy tab color - because my bedroom needs no view.
Side mirrors of minivan work great.
Left side, driver, sliding door window is always covered by a solid piece of cream colored fabric Because I rarely open that side. THIS IS WHY A CARGO VAN WOULD BE HELPFUL.
The right side window is covered by a dark blue fabric that's dark yet visible for me to see through from inside but not vice versa.
Same fabric drapes the headrests of the front seats - I'm low and can see from the bed out the front window but that fabric is dark and the slanted angle keeps ppl from seeing in.
Very simplistic, rudementarty set-up but it works so well.
4 months in florida while working a temporary event job.
Shower at the aquatic center ($35/mo) because my gym was a 15-20min drive away.
2.5 months back in the van - I had a Covid hideout for 3 months - and I feel cozy and fiscally thrifty.
No lease.
No roommates.
No anti-dog policies.
"I hear a light rrrrr when ppl get too close. I've seen her smack the driver window when someone tried to say hi (tint allows me to be inside and ppl can't see in)
I'll upgrade to larger when it's the right van.
But for $2k purchase, $180 in build materials and $600 in basic repairs (brakes & tires) over the last full year, I've found I have a cozy retreat that travels and is soccer mom stealth.
Even had trouble finding it in parking lot!! It's a blender.
I think the problem with windows is the heat build up in summer and loss in winter. For stealth roof windows are better. Try living in a van without insulation for a few days and you might change your mind. Living in a metal box can be very hot or cold!
Exactly! And that fiberglass insulation won't do any harm once it's sealed in the walls; millions of houses have fiberglass insulation. It's the installing (and then removing it) that is dangerous to breath. He's making the whole insulation issue way more complicated than it should be.
Insulation Spray foaming the van is the best move. You can spray 360 degrees inside.
Only if done correctly. Otherwise you have biohazard on your hands.
Done poorly, spray foam causes major warping of body panels
Toxic though. Use rigid panel insulation.
Kip Lambel not the real stuff. The stuff you’d have to hire someone to install. “Closed cell spray”
Nicholas L can get even close to the same r value. Also the toxicity should be aired out then covered. Shouldnt be an issue if done safely
In my van the insulation helps keep the noise levels way down when travelling, Don't forsake it.
You can get a pump for the water jugs.
And for washing dishes. I use the new spray dawn. Scrub with paper towel. Rinse with squirter bottle. Wipe out with paper towel. No running water needed.
Really like these types of videos! And you've really stepped up your video quality, especially the story telling aspect. Keep up the good work!
Tuomas Katila I totally agree and the audio is way better now
I chuckled when I heard you talking while standing still...usually your out of breath or ripping it up on a downhill ! ...lol
I totally agree, it has been awhile since I watched The Singletrack Sampler, big improvement on the production, storytelling and overall quality of the video. Great job!
RongGearRob I sexually agree
Your video quality is through the roof, so awesome to watch! They keep getting better and better!
Already looking forward to the next video. Thanks for showing the reality of living on the road full time Alex. Glad you have some amazing skilled friend who could help you fix the problem areas of the van
You bring so much frustration, learned knowlege . . . to such a 'life experience.' Sharing it with others, makes it better, for the Van Build community !
This is why I’m doing the spray insulation. It’s the most efficient, easiest way to insulate a van
Same
No the insulation does it’s job. I’ve had an uninsulated van and it was a fridge in the cold and a radiating heater in the summer. I’d advise you to reconsider lol
Got a specific method that worked?
he used thinsulate,,, he just didnt want the fiberglass kind becausse it is bad fo your lungs
No 🧢 I have always wondered what it looks like when I peak out the back window in Walmart in the van .lol Get some crazy noises that go on at Walmart 2:30 AM on a Tuesday fr .
A technique never really discussed, but highly effective, is to bedline the entire interior before starting construction. This will provide a big amount of sound deadening, but more importantly, add the very important vapor barrier to control moisture. You can also now not worry about insulation getting damp and growing mold. You can get two gallons for under $100 and roll it on yourself.
a vapor barrier on the outter layer will do nothing to stop moisture as the moisture is coming from his breath. All a vapor barrier does is stop the warm indoor air from hitting the outdoor cold air causing it to condense on or in the walls. spray foam would give him a vapor barrier plus provide insulation. Add a layer of reflectex and you could heat it with a candle.
Ty for sharing! Human progress is only by learning from other's mistakes and I think this 'van-life' lifestyle is around to stay for a long time!
Thanks for being so honest, and share the "bad" or challenging issues!! It helps a lot!!
Cheap tool boxes are HEAVY
Expensive tool boxes are LIGHT ALLOYS with ROLLER BEARING DRAWERS
i don't think anyone will get this one here
Simeon I don’t
Explain 🤷♂️
@@adamadamik3753 we are talking about hardware which is quite strictly you get what you pay for... basically comment above implies that the OP has made a poor choice of a tool drawer and is now complaining (as expected). Instead, could have gotten a SUITABLE for his needs tool box or make a point about a poor choice rather than just saying "ah this tool box is bad"
@@simeon324 I think the point was that the storage accessible from the inside is not properly thought through, and that more hooks are always welcomed.
The more expensive lighter (aka) thinner. Will be damaged easier. And riding in a van all the time. It needs to be resistant to damage.
Isolation is also important in sound dampening. I would definitely not get rid of isolation. Maybe using sprayon insulating foam would be more easy.
Isolation makes the heart grow fonder too.
Access to a sink was something I figured you would come around to sooner or later.
Enjoyable funny guy! I've just started on my van build, an empty GMC Savana 2500 cargo van, and really enjoying doing the build myself. I'll get to know my van intimately ;) Presently I have it set up for overland camping. After 60+ years of backpacking worldwide, I've got gear to fully equip the van end to end...just added a refrigerator. It is so much fun and a dream will become reality within the next year or sooner, depending on a commitment result.
Alex, an easy tap and sink you can use is a washing tub, and a camping water sack. It can hang on the wall and has a tube to get water out of, it also has a filter so u can get water from anywhere and drink it fresh. It’s not to expensive and are really useful.👍
The quality of your vids has improved so much over time. Keep up the awesome work
cover the windows with wood insulate between the two and cut a small slot with a slider on it to still have a way to peek out of all of them and slide closed for privacy.
Vanmade Gear sells sweet insulated shades for the PM...I know because I did the prototype for them. Allows full blackout or partial open.
Great video. This is just as (if not more) helpful than seeing what does work well. Glad I found this one first, looking forward to catching up on the renovation ones next!
I agree. Sometimes it's better to hear about what didn't work in order to get your own ideas.
With the water situation look up a pump faucet its usb charging batt powered switch pump and battery all in one run a line to your tank and your done cost about 20 dollars amazing solution
Compost toilet, grow food? small dehumidifier use the water on plants. Dap white, marshmallow foam insulation. wash board. Clear storage. Buy a better inverter (Solaredge). change a laptop for a tablet. replace windows w/ sheet metal. reduce weight and increase comfort. replace some wood w/ hollow plastic fence posts. Get wool everything; no smell and dries fast. Miss anything?? I'm n spartanburg 54 miles from Asheville.
Hollow fence posts! hummmmmm
Editing 4k video on a tablet? Yeah... nah.
You can't grow from human compost, has to be from a different species
Clear storage is a great suggestion! The others, too. Except...
How would he edit his videos on a tablet? That's solid: No-Go, like TheClunkingFist said previously.
YO Alex cant wait to see the new stuff you have added!!
Me too
Wow. Really next level production here. 👍 Can't wait to see the upgrades!
We gone through similar experience, but glad we decided to insulate our van. This allows us to be comfortable in cold climate.
Color changing light in the battery chamber is AWESOME! Looks like the Dilithium Crystal Reactor on the Starship Enterprise!
For the windows you could tint them super dark and you'll still be able to see outta of them
racist
You gotta understand that tint laws exist in several states. Only certain levels of tints are allowed and only on certain windows too
Yes agree we put some in.. U can see out but they can't see in 👍
I was planning no running water... you saved me from myself with that visual of where to spit the toothpaste. Thanks
Save an empty disposable water bottle to spit into then u can trash it later whenever ur near a trash can... Use the now empty one that u were getting ur rinse water from for the next one to use... Or ya know rinse and repeat after a quick slosh with soaoy water then vinegar. . ive also used an empty McD large drink cup and disposed when finished but that occupies a cup holder at least with an empty Water bottle it has a leakproof screw on cap... If u buy a small 6pack u can clean up with a fresh bottle.. Wash hands etc. Kepp a spray bottle of water and a spray bottle of vinegar for dishes. Wipe as much debris away w paper towels. Then wet a papertowel and put a drop or two of dish detergent "wash" ur dish (over a trash can so dirty papertowels inside catch any drips then spray clean with spray water bottle followed by spray of vinegar then wipe dry and put away.. Can still remain stealthy...thats how i did it in my van... Then u can dispose of trash in trash somewhere or if camping u can put the paper products on the campfire...
That bad solenoid almost killed you. Have an electrician evaluate your setup.
The biggest problem is overloading the electronics and not putting a ground strap to displace the ground to the asphalt
@@thecloneguyz its overloading. The ground strap your talking about is a non issue. That would only be for mitigating static electricity. Space shuddles don't use ground straps after all
@@zeddpilsner4
All the newer police cars use ground straps because of the new 24 volt systems that they're running
@@zeddpilsner4
The 12 volt battery is being discontinued in 2024 and the new cars will come with 24 volt batteries and systems
@@zeddpilsner4
I've been building stereo systems for years.
We use ground straps all the time to eliminate engine noise and lower the ohm resistance
Seth's is one of my favorite channels. You have now been added to that favorites list.
1. Mentality.
Depends on what you want. Don't be ashamed, or hold back on your imaginations, and desires. Just be honest with yourself, make sure you know exactly what you want, and be accepting of how much that exact dream will cost. Note the dollar amount, not how you feel about the dollar amount. Don't think that you can't have something because the technology for it doesn't exist, or because it's too expensive etcetera. Just be confident in your dreams, and know exactly what your dreams are, and them look at the cost separately. And here's a big one; Don't think that certain things are so simple that you won't need to do any research on them. You can save so much money, and hassle by simply asking if there's another way to do the things you think are already simple enough.
2. Windows.
You were right in that based on your lifestyle, you don't need windows as much. Mounting hidden infrared CCTV cameras around the van, and having a viewing display mounted somewhere in the van would be enough for you if you prefer to be unseen, while still being able to peak outside.
3. Insulation.
What I see different in your experience with insulation, is that you were conflicted, and changed types half way through the build. I would say having some insulation, whatever kind, is always better than having none at all. Though this largely depends on the type of build, and what you want to do with it, in my case I want to build out a Chevy G20 conversion van, and I know they already come with fiberglass insulation, but because of my build type, regardless of how degraded, or harmful it might be, (btw how exactly is it a poor choice for the van?) I have no plans to change it because it will be sufficient for me. I will only change and insulate the floor. I would say to get around issues associated with both insulation, and moisture barriers, you should focus more on your power system. If you could power systems that regulate climate, and air quality in the van, then you can rely less on the passive insulation of the vehicle that tends to be less capable and reliable. This also eliminates the need for a rooftop fan that blows your cover no pun intended, that you love so much. A humidifier, dehumidifier, AC system, heating system, air purifier, etcetera. Active systems where the only demand could be electricity, and that can simply be a question of how decent your power setup is.
4. Electrical.
I'm surprised at your power setup. It's incredibly minuscule, I mean it's fine for what you use it for, but it's small for a van build in general. I think it's the smallest power setup of any van I've ever seen. Though you never touched on the inverter say get a big fat one like 3500 watts continuous and up. I personally want 5k or 6k continuous for my setup. I often suggest people get a good sized power bank. Your 300w solar is just fine, and your 200 amp isolator is just fine as well, but I often tell folks to try to rely on a good size power bank, and lithium type batteries in particular. Nothing beats Li-Po. "Calb Cam" batteries, or "Nissan Leaf EV modules" are fantastic, and I want to use them for my VB. They're stupid cheap, ridiculously big capacity, and stupid light! Idk why you complain about cost when you spend over $350, on a single 100 ah battery, that weighs 70+lbs!! When a two Nissan Leaf battery modules, are 128 ah, and weigh 16 LBS!!! For like $160 bucks!! ...Granted they are harder to install, but once they're set up, they're good!! The Calb Cam batteries are more expensive but they're worth it if you have the money! Two calb cam 72s' are 144 ah! @ only 8 LBS!! But for around $300, which for you is actually a steal!! So there's no comparison, or excuse for not having a descent bank to power your world. I personally want a $1,600 dollar, 1,280 AH!! power bank on my VB. So I could care less about solar, or an isolator (not that I wouldn't have them).
5. Storage.
You have more things in a van then I think I've ever seen, and that's not a critique, that's just an opinionated perspective. Nothing wrong with that just, wow. I can't help you there. Just depends on what you want to do there sir. That's just a lot of stuff to put in a van bro. Nice work bench though. I like that.
6. Cloths.
I see this a lot, and it goes right back to your power system again. If you have ample power, there are a few very small dorm-room/table-top washing machines, and clothes dryers, that use a regular 110v plug, but don't require formal plumbing hookups. There's a 5.5 lbs washing machine (one I'll probably use in my VB) that has a spin cycle that drains water off the cloths almost dry but not dry. From there you could hang them to dry, but I'd rather use one of the many portable clothes dryers. They're so small you can fit them inside any van, and they dry cloths faster than hanging them because they're powered, and have blowers. I personally like the dinky little collapsible Air-o-dry, because it's so compact. But you don't need any plumbing, or hvac, like in motorhomes, or in houses. So in a lot of ways it's actually better.
7. Running water.
Okay first of all there's nothing wrong with not having running water in the van. This is a tough one and I'm probably going to have to make a video for it. You have to rethink the way you do things, and you can't expect a van to be exactly like a house no matter how outfitted it is. It doesn't have to be a loss. Sometimes not having plumbing is a serious gain. If you can complete the same tasks you would in a house without the exact same fixtures as a house, then you simply don't need them. For instance, brushing teeth, idk what you were thinking sir, but just because you don't have running water, doesn't mean you don't need a sink. And a sink doesn't need running water to be functional. This is why it so heavily depends on what you want. Do you want functionality, or nostalgia? Because a 5 gal bucket will do. I say showering is always better done outside no matter the climate, especially if it's done right. If there's anything that makes something luxurious, it's the functionality, and having the room, spaciousness. Something you simply cannot get on the inside of a van no matter how expensive, or high quality the amenities are. So you're on the right track with your bathroom setup but it's missing some key functionalities to make work right and be awesome. Those are a basin (could be a bucket), a shower stall, and a faucet. You seem to be concerned with stealth, but spitting out of your van does nothing to blow your cover, nor does it have anything to do with having running water. But if you insist then for a basin, a bucket, or more traditional sink is just fine. For a shower, believe it or not, you do need privacy, and protection from the elements. To get that, a portable popup privacy tent, most of which are larger than indoor showers on RVs, work just fine. To get the flow of your water, there's at least two good ways. You can use a "sea to summit pocket shower", which can also be used as a faucet for your sink with that bucket, or any inventive configuration that you see fit, or you could copy the countertop design from CycleCruza's moto van build. He uses a 7 gal water jug, 110v water heating element in the jug, 12v water pump, and a shower head on a hose. Then mounts them under a countertop at the rear of his van, to shower with in that same popup privacy tent. While this is somewhat plumbed, it's rather easily removed, and extremely versatile. For colder climates you could use an ice melting floor mat, and duct 4 inch flex piping from a heater to the base of that tent to simulate radiant heating in the shower. To ice the cake no pun intended, I prefer the portable collapsing toilet, but your 5 gal bucket works just fine in the popup tent. And a portable pee pot for liquids. This setup outdoes big luxury motorhomes, and even my house because there is no plumbing to be flushed, just kitty litter for solids, and chemicals for the pee pot. It's versatile, mobile, self sufficient, self sustaining, and there's no loss of functionality or sanitation. Nothing you can't do bro.
Maybe a pop-up top, for sleeping? You could tow a small trailer as well.
Underrated channel. Really enjoyed your editing and speaking skills
What am I listening to Jesus talking about why his van sucks??
Giovanni Productions When I die, and find out that for all eternity I have to live in a van down but the river, I’m gonna be very upset.
@@Mark-yb1sp what? That sounds like the best life ever! Haha
Because he wants you to be prepared for the day where YOU'RE 30 YEARS OLD AND LIVING IN A VAN DOWN BY THE RIVER. GODDDDDDDD.
To teach disciples like me how to do it the right way but thanks for asking though by the way you're not a non-believer are you
LMAO😊
Watched this video years ago and loved it! Now that I am living in a van with my family I appreciate it even more. Thanks for the great content!
Love the presentation of regrets & wishlist! It's informative & funny! And love even more the renovation result especially the workstation!!!!
Never watched u b4 don't know how! Can't wait for u to bring out the video on the project
You should try a VW T25 syncro. They are all 4x4 and they are a great project to work on.
Or a Mercedes sprinter they are large and can fit a toilet and water plus heating
I tried to tell you to get a Lithium Battery for your van when you and Seth first built it. The AGM batteries wear out and suck at power delivery.
You need to build a Lithium Iron phosphate power bank.
that is true, but it's hard to save for lithium when you're poor and paying rent.
The problem with Lithium iron phosphate batteries is cold weather. They don’t charge if it’s below freezing. No problem if you’re spending the winter in the desert but if you’re a skier or living part time in cold places LiFePh are an issue. AGM are excellent, you just need to have enough capacity so you don’t drain them less than 50% of full charge. I have 310 amp-hours of AGM and have never seen my state of charge less than 90% even running a fridge, diesel heater, lights, etc. Alex just needs more battery storage.
@@scnomad3626 LiFePO4 is actually more cold tolerant than any other lithium battery.
And you can blanket your LiFeO4 and put a basic blanket heater on them. If it's warm enough for you in the van, then it's warm enough for LiFePO4.
Same size is $900. Not worth it. ROI isn't there yet. And with out a BMS, you run the risk of a fire.
@@cmh2111 uh LifePo4 doesnt have a fire risk.
Dude, I really liked this video. I've been watching van build videos for over a year. I really appreciate the honesty of your look back. The window/insulation/privacy issues are making me rethink my present ideas. Great job and stay happy. It can't be that bad with 2,750,000 views. ✌
I can relate to the brushing teeth thing, especially when its raining heavy. It really gets to you over time
I used to have no insulation on the roof and would frequently get woken up by condensation collecting and dripping on me
Have you ever considered putting dark /mirror tint on your windows for privacy and the ability to still utilize them!?
Alex: is afraid of carbon dust
Also Alex: Touches fiberglass with bare hands
Carbon dust in your lungs is way worse than fiberglass in your hands (it's not airborne).
"According to the safety enthusiasts in my comment section, carbon dust is like anthrax"-Seth
While Carbon dust/fibre is a known carcinogen when inhaled, fiberglass is as of yet a potential carcinogen (it's on the watchlist because of it has similar structure to carbon fibre and asbestos, but there are no data supporting it being carcinogenic) It's relatively easy to avoid breathing in glass fibre and the worst it really does to your skin is irritation. Just for perspective, wood dust is a known carcinogen.
I lick the insides of microwave popcorn packages cedar dust is the worst
Chuck Norris snorts lines of asbestos dust
18650's are the smart choice for batteries. You can easily find room for you to literally drive your car on the battery. Also you can replace individual cells when they go instead of the entire battery.
The person who thinks you can build the perfect camper first time in has another thing coming. A shakedown will already reveal issues and you might end up changing the whole thing. To have someone with experience in something like this is invaluable. The other thing I would recommend to have in your list of things for ANY camper is: a FIRE drill/plan.
Make sure you have TWO fire extinguishers, two medium size, don't even bother with them tiny ones. Put one inside the cabin accessible by the driver and the other one preferably outside, but in the back is ok too. ALSO, keep all you valuables and survival items close and ready. So that in case of a fire, you can evacuate the vehicle and pull stuff out quickly without thinking. Just saying, it can safe your life some day! Great video, thanks for sharing!!! Currently doing research for my mini van project :) Insulation is also one of my topics, I think mainly noise as well. Just insulate large surfaces and don't bother with the rest.
Worked on Cars And Vans/trucks in bodyshops over 30 years to understand how many of them rust And i will break it down to as short as i can..Anything water touches it carries it or go's around it Have you ever had to pick out pine needles and leaves from the back of your hood where the fresh air vents are And your wipers? Yup carried by water ..Now In every nook and cranny Dirt has been pushed into it And over the days weeks months years It collects to a fine mud ..Mud takes longer to dry than plain water Add in a acidic Ph level to the mix And you have a Paint softener Water bubbles form under the paint making rust spots
Inside Vans Adding in fibreglass And foam boards Still leaves a Air gap And with Air you have Vapor Even with a Vapor barrier Once more fibreglass Holds water The glass don't rot But things around it will Gravity will pull the water down into wheel wells and body panels Some Trucks Cars Have foam already installed as sound deadener The Jimmy And Blazers from the 90's into the 2000's Are famous for this And rust out quicker in the panel bottom just behind the door Behind it is a gap of foam And it rust all around it And the type of foam is open cell (Not made for water)
As i live in Canada Extreme temps do happen First thing i done after i stripped my SUV to metal was Used 9 tall cans of Rocker rubberized guard to about 1 inch- 1 1/2 inches of rubber every where inside behind the front seats (Keeps the paint rust free And stops the heat from the sprayfoam curing From warping panels of the van due to heat Added plus is it turns part of the rubber guard into a glue Then hardends) Then my furring strips And my wiring in small PVC tubing for a 2nd battery And lighting etc Then 2 full inches of Closed cell spray foam from a pro company (cheaper to find them on a job site and pull up early morning as they set up for a house) I let the truck breath for a few hours before i drove it home At home I kept the windows open And let it "Vent" for 24hrs But even driving home it wasnt a issue The PVC idea is so if i need to remove or Add a wire I do not have to dig out foam to do it
A million people will tell you Spray foam vents "Off-gas" And will give you a list of problems to your body Which is not true And is true..Bottom line is : Spray foam will give you the same amount of off gas As it would say Driving behind another car in traffic And your stuck at a red light Or the off gas of all the plastic And chemicals that makes your van while its sitting in the sun
And lastly I never have had a issue of rust Or sweating in the truck And with extra thick window covers And a thick drape across the back of the front seat A small plug in office heater "Foot warmer" There is a 20 degree diffrence outside to inside
Dude, your audio and editing have improved so much. Great work. Excellent video!
this was not only well made, but very informative.... and that toilet reenactment was gold! (at least i hope it was a reenactment) lol.
great video man, can't wait for the next one.
leo p I hope it was a reenactment too... 😂😂
Too much current draw from that one battery ,you cooked the solenoid so hard it melted that post into the plastic.
That insulation would have gone up like a bonfire when those overloaded cables heated up.
Electrical ,even in low voltage is not a guessing game ,gotta be careful mate.
Good video ,every project brings new afterthoughts.
yep seriously wondering why he doesn't have 2 or even 3 batteries in parallel. oh well
I booted the sidewall of one of my tires with a 2"x2" piece of duct tape last year and its still holding up great. I replaced the sealant a few months ago and checked the tape while doing so, still looked good and haven't had any leakage from that tear.
I converted my 2014 Kia Sorento. I love it, I am gonna DIY an awning this Friday. Jan 1st.
5:51 that posts "kinda" discolored? Bro! That solenoid is straight up melted 😯 Need to change that electrical system a little. You're pulling a few more amps then that thing should handle 👍👍
The fried solenoid was probably from alternator charging.
Probably a momentary solenoid
I feel like I'm missing something... what would he need the solenoid for?
@@hhiippiittyy Well solenoid has two meanings, the more common use for it is to describe a coil of wire that creates a magnetic field when voltage is applied, and then used to attract a metal object (usually a rod) towards the coil. Used to flip switches and close valves and stuff. The one I would imagine they are talking about is similar, but is more commonly called an inductor. Its usually as a kind of energy storage device for ac power supplies to produce DC current. The inductor (or solenoid in this case) supplies a steady current to the circuit during the switching periods of the AC current that is supplying power.
I would have used expando foam in the small nooks and crannies.
I'm currently designing my own van conversion project for full time living, I'll start actually building in once the Ford Transit all electric comes out in late 2021, but your feedback has been invaluable! thank you so much for having uploaded this! big kudos to you!
Very well done..I was debating Van Life or Tiny Home....going for Tiny Home...so thank you for your honesty and I beleive you have the talent to make documentries you made it interesting enough for me to stayed glued to the screen
It WILL NOT heat up faster without insulation. Quite the opposite. How did you figure that out and put it on a video.
just like everything else obviously....
You can insulate things both ways, to keep heat inside (like most homes) or outside (like the space shuttle).
No, I think he means the heat from the OUTSIDE heats the INSIDE of the van faster.
Makes sense, my bad, as i live in a frozen hellhole and never think about insulating heat out.
The whole point of insulation is not letting heat in or out
I live in my car toyota prius i dont know but all this seems so complicated
Trust me it’s not for everyone who has little to no dedication
If you ever want to upgrade to something similar but with more space, check out the ~2008 Ford Escape hybrid. There is even a 4wd version.
Esteban Aguilar I just think you don’t need all this to live out of your vehicle 🚗
kill switch thank you 😊
complicated to build for someone that is uncomfortable with tools, but way way better living than in a Prius.
Him: **spends days resurching insulation**
Me: "insilation is insulation. "
Dude, I’m just starting my van build and this video was super helpful and funny! Keep living free🤙🏽
You can get a small, rechargeable water pump that works on Culligan bottles. You could adapt it to work on these.
Can't wait for the new video 📹Keith from Asheville North Carolina
Good trails there lucky you.
I’m a freshman in high school and this is my plan as soon as I graduate
I'm a sophomore in high school and I honestly think that I might do this
Is that you Owen?? (My grandson!) ❤️
Is this your grandmother, Owen?
Yo! Can't wait for the next van renovation #1 video.
i know what they did to it
@@rostonnordell3218 Sssh! No spoilers!
I totally feel you with the purposeful storage. Those bins with the yellow lid become a pit for odds and ends.
My first van is a VW Caddy short wheel base, commercial version with air-conditioning, power steering, DSG, and 1.9 TDI. It's great on diesel but I don't have much space. I've got a bed and a cabinet I built. I insulated the van, made the bed and cabinet, and put a floor in. Solo camping in it is fine.
Why not use some 1 way mirror film on your windows so you can see out but nobody can see in?
A motorised and hinged mount for your solar panel coupled with a programmable controller could have you get more out of your panel by having it automatically point and track at closest to the optimum angle. You'll need to lock it down when you're on the move.
As for hot water, solar water heaters are pretty easy to make, and a drainback system could be made with a solar pump and a small vented tank. You'll need level switches since you need to manually fill the system off grid.
When you first built the van Seth mentioned there is enough room for another battery down the line
The US is such a paradise, imagine seeing such places and just being able to drive for hours without hitting towns
Lol how about in Australia, away from the cities you can drive for 2 days without seeing anyone, that's remote 🔥
Rawiri Dixon yeah but y’all upside down
Mexico is even more desolate
Ive been a car audio installer for 22 years, as soon as i saw that wiring to the solenoid it looks like the crappy cca (copper clad aluminum) wire that we pull out all the time and see if create fires. Make sure you always use ofc wiring. Not saying yours is cca but thats exactly what it does, corrodes, and causes heat because it arcs out and then inevitably can catch fire. Love the van setup. Thinking about building one for myself.
Although not having running water is a pain, you could do what Seth did for his pickup truck camper and use a pressurised beer thing and a plain metal bowl. Although you will have to empty it all the time, it would be pretty useful and not compromise counter space
I must have gotten this in my feed because of watching Tucker Gott (also a van life dude) and thought, "Why? this doesn't apply to me...in any way, from demographics, to ideology, politics, nor hair styles." Then again, I just spent 6+ weeks in the motorhome and was drawn into your fantastic editing of some really great footage, coupled with tips and advice. Looking forward to more. Sub earned!
Shoutout to the butt-fan lovers!