Just finished this job. Getting the rack back in, while at the same time preventing the front spacers from falling out was very challenging. Best way I found to do this, was to disconnect the tie rod ends from the knuckles, and to install the 13mm bolts and spacers prior to attempting to put the rack back in place. Installing the 13mm bolts helps keep the two plate halves in the correct position, and will allow you to place the front spacers in place, without them falling out from the sandwiched halves (it seems impossible to install the spacers once the mounting holes are in the correct position due to the dimpled mounting surfaces on which the spacer sits. You must place the spacers in place within the rack mounting tabs, before attempting to get the rack in its correct position). Disconnecting the tie rod ends gives the steering rack more free movement, allowing you to mount it easier. With the tie rods STILL connected, I came very close to getting the rack in, but it was misaligned by about 3/4 of an inch due to the tires having turned while I attempted to hammer the rack in. Disconnecting the tie rod ends allowed me to fine tune the rack to the left/right, allowing perfect alignment of the 17mm bolt holes. Then you simply point the tires in the correct orientation and reconnect the tie rod ends. To install the 13mm bolts and spacers, I first used the 17mm bolt and nuts W/O the spacers to hold the front half in place. Then I used two clamping pliers to clamp down the rear half. This allowed me to easily install the 13mm bolts and spacers. Otherwise you may have trouble aligning the bolts, holes, and spacer, with the force of the new bushing pressing out on the two plate halves.
Hi Brandon, please allow comments on your FAAC 760 video. I'd love to ask a couple of questions, but that video doesn't allow comments for some reason. Thank you!
How painful was this to do on your back? Contemplating lowering the rack myself to clean it up and replace control arms. Hit me up man!! I’d appreciate it.
Really. Really easy. I can’t believe I waited +year to do the job. If you look closely the zip ties helped a lot and there’s holes for them (possibly for shipping purposes in the past). But yeah I had the opportunity to do it with the engine out and regretted not doing it... I don’t think it would have made the job easier.... Definitely safer without the engine tho!
Try disconnecting the tie rod ends, also, you can hammer the top mounting tabs on the subframe slightly to make the steering rack tabs fit a little easier. Once the lips of the steering rack tabs are INSIDE the subframe mounting tabs, you can hammer on the steering rack mounting plate. There is a bend towards the front-middle of the plate, where you can place a flat head screw driver and hammer it into place.
Dang the drawing. You're a beast great vid!
cheers mate thanks for the vid, ill be doing this once the weather clears up
good video, I'm just replacing my sump and this will help me remove my rack for access too it.
Just finished this job. Getting the rack back in, while at the same time preventing the front spacers from falling out was very challenging. Best way I found to do this, was to disconnect the tie rod ends from the knuckles, and to install the 13mm bolts and spacers prior to attempting to put the rack back in place. Installing the 13mm bolts helps keep the two plate halves in the correct position, and will allow you to place the front spacers in place, without them falling out from the sandwiched halves (it seems impossible to install the spacers once the mounting holes are in the correct position due to the dimpled mounting surfaces on which the spacer sits. You must place the spacers in place within the rack mounting tabs, before attempting to get the rack in its correct position). Disconnecting the tie rod ends gives the steering rack more free movement, allowing you to mount it easier. With the tie rods STILL connected, I came very close to getting the rack in, but it was misaligned by about 3/4 of an inch due to the tires having turned while I attempted to hammer the rack in. Disconnecting the tie rod ends allowed me to fine tune the rack to the left/right, allowing perfect alignment of the 17mm bolt holes. Then you simply point the tires in the correct orientation and reconnect the tie rod ends.
To install the 13mm bolts and spacers, I first used the 17mm bolt and nuts W/O the spacers to hold the front half in place. Then I used two clamping pliers to clamp down the rear half. This allowed me to easily install the 13mm bolts and spacers. Otherwise you may have trouble aligning the bolts, holes, and spacer, with the force of the new bushing pressing out on the two plate halves.
Not a bad idea mate
Hi Brandon, please allow comments on your FAAC 760 video. I'd love to ask a couple of questions, but that video doesn't allow comments for some reason. Thank you!
Sir, you can now add comments to the video
How painful was this to do on your back? Contemplating lowering the rack myself to clean it up and replace control arms. Hit me up man!! I’d appreciate it.
Really. Really easy. I can’t believe I waited +year to do the job. If you look closely the zip ties helped a lot and there’s holes for them (possibly for shipping purposes in the past). But yeah I had the opportunity to do it with the engine out and regretted not doing it... I don’t think it would have made the job easier.... Definitely safer without the engine tho!
@@brstarks7 awesome, thanks man! Think will pull it down this weekend!
I can't get the two plates back into the subframe. What a pain in the ass 🥲
I hope you got it!
Try disconnecting the tie rod ends, also, you can hammer the top mounting tabs on the subframe slightly to make the steering rack tabs fit a little easier. Once the lips of the steering rack tabs are INSIDE the subframe mounting tabs, you can hammer on the steering rack mounting plate. There is a bend towards the front-middle of the plate, where you can place a flat head screw driver and hammer it into place.