Amazing to see the engine, so clean! That torque wrench is hot fire! Wow, like shift lights coming on! So cool. Thanks to Jake, you were a beast at putting the engine together! Now if something breaks we will blame you! Of course not. Also again thanks to all of the commenters here. Love reading your comments with tips, thoughts, questions and background information!
After seeing all the work in the last few videos with the broken engine, I'm more and more convinced I will never get upgrade hybrids and just stick with the fastest stock turbos OTS MHD V5 E40 map... :D 7 sec 100-200 is more than enough and I love the low rpm response for drifting.
Haha, i dont blame you. I think we need to see a dragy or vbox verified time, your car would be the fastest stock turbo N54 car in the world and its not even a custom tune.
Glad you resolved the head gasket question. I see you didn't put new oil on any of the bolts internal to the engine. I have seen this as a step in quite a few other rebuilds, but not necessarily the N54. I can see how lubricated threads and bolt heads would impact torque, but maybe this isn't a problem with torque to yield (angle tightening) bolts? To your comment about BMW loving angle tightening, torque to yield bolts are annoying because they are typically considered single use, but they are great from an engineering standpoint because they assure even clamping force across the head or cam boxes without relaying on the technician to get the torque perfect or other variables that impact torque like lubrication or surface finish. The bolt is actually stretching and because they all have the same diameter the same clamping force is developed. This way each bolt is applying the same force and the head and cam boxes will remain flat and not warped.
I personally can't answer with any substance regarding lubricating the bolts. Jake has done it the way he was trained at BMW, but that doesnt always mean its the "best" way just because a manufacturer does it.
You bring up an interesting point about lubing the bolts. Bmw doesn’t want you to apply antiseize or oil to spark plugs while tightening them. If applying oil or lube to a bolt Ganges the torque spec , then does it cause it to be under or over torqued?
@@chrisrobles2012 Lubricating the threads would cause more clamping force (bolt tension) for the same torque because it is easier for the threads to slip past each other when lubricated. This would also cause more stress on the threads. It is very important when torqueing bolts to install then correctly, lubed or not lubed. Anti-seize should also be avoided on wheel studs because when lubed the same torque produces more clamping force and stress on the threads. See here: www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html I think Jake is doing it right. It just is interesting to me because you see the recommendation to lube the threads regularly, but I don't think it makes a difference for torque to yield bolts. I trust his method. I am sure he has rebuilt engines before with success. They took down NewTIS so I can't check what BMW recommends.
The cam ledger has updated teflon seals, you should have replaced the old ductile iron sealing rings. The motor does look nice and it should run like it looks great work
Soon soon!!! I dont want to jinx it by saying a timeframe i want to get it back together. But i'm hoping i get the motors swapped faster than i fitted the turbos!
So now you can pull the old engine and see wazzup with that and possibly repair it for a spare. The cam box seal are a pain when they grove like that. Hopefully you can find some much cheaper ledges without a time crunch involved to fix that issue in the future. You'll be a pro by the time this is all said and done! :) Great content BTW!
Thanks man. The plan is to run this engine in stock form for a little while, the. Assuming the e92 engine isn’t too bad let damaged build that one up with some forged bits and other upgrades.
I have contacted a few stores hoping one would sell the insert however no luck, the best i could get was a bare bone block with a closed deck insert completed and machined. However that's in the USA and for the price you are better off just sending your block to het it done. That being said, if you can find a local machine shop to make an insert using either a 3d scanner and a cnc machine they could possibly make you your own insert. Then the shop that does the EJ engines could do the installation. It boggles the mind that stores are not willing to help. They want to sell you their services and that's it. It's not like closed decking is some sort of mystical dark art. It's literally just pressing a piece of billet aluminum into a block using the correct tools. Kinda like press fitting a bearing and machining everything to fit. After the story got told that the crank needs to be re clearanced i asked if the insert is going into the bottom or the top of the block 😂 and if its going into the top then why do you need to do any cutting at the bottom when using a stock crank. It's not like bmw will sell you a engine where the crank fouls on the bottom of the block. But anyway, just surprised by the replies. Will still keep trying, hopefully i get lucky.
Thank you so much for your efforts. I do kinda get why companies dont want to sell thier deck. If they sell it and someone doesnt install it properly they may get the blame when it fails. But still bloody annoying none the less.
@@ZeroTo60Tube let me try and find out for you. I know it requires machine work to fit the block. How substantial the machine work that's required is, i am not sure of. Don't know if you need some proprietary tools or not. But will reply here if i can find out.
@@francoiscombrinck3884 Please let me know what you find out. My searching sort of come to a dead end. There is a local shop here that does them for subarus, but they can't get the insert for the N54.
Good job. Did you buy new head bolts or you reused the old ones? Also did you say: 30n.m + 90° + 90° + 45° for the torque specs? And are the same torque specs applicable for reused bolts?
Yeah, I probably should have. 2 reasons I didn’t. This motor is only temporary. And because of the wear already I was concerned that the new seal won’t seat in to the damaged ledge properly. Where the current setup the ledge and the metal seal have worn together.
since you did reuse the old cam boxes did you stay with the metal sealing rings or did you use the new teflon seal rings with the old boxes? my N53 has the same internal layout and at 195k km (approx 122k mls) i suspect mine are worn quite simmilar
Stuck with the metal. I was concerned the teflon wont seal in to the damaged boxes. I figured the metal is whats caused the groove, so it should likely match up and and seal.
Great vid guys . Just wanted some clarification here : does the N54 come stock with forged crank and conrods and if so does the N55 B3M0 have the same?
The n54 does have forged rods, crank but cast or semi forged style pistons. That said the forged rods in the N54 are not as strong as aftermarket rods. They will handle nice peak power. But too much boost too low in the RPM range and they will bend. People say the N55 is not as strong as the N54, however i really have only seen failures due to lack of maintenance or people, well, really its following BMWs maintenance plans which are ludicrous. In my opinion the reason the N54s tend to make more power is the stock twins will flow more than the stock single on the N55. So same mods on the two motors, the N54 will net more power due to its turbos. That said the N55, will probably be more responsive.
nice job i don't think that scoring will play up with the vanos on a different note have you looked at your dads car yet were the detent springs broken what about the fan problem
Hey Glenn, the e46 is registered. Fan was missing the resistor completely. So ended up just fitting a replacement second hand fan, plugged it in, fitted the fuse to the correct position and BAM it worked. Haven't looked in to the gearbox, however apparently its normal SMG shift speed. And to be fair it just feels like a SMG 3 in full soft mode, so i bet it is right. The ac is now cold (somehow) and one of the headlights did need some wires inside replaced. Some turps removed the black paint from the guard flashers. But yeah, it didn't take too much to get it registered. Currently on the hunt for a manual gearbox. I think that will be first on the list of mods.
@@ZeroTo60Tube keep an eye on pickles salvage auction there was a e46 m3 manual they listed in adelaide a fortnight ago it was then removed so i expect it will come up again in the coming weeks if it does i will let you know pickles vic get a lot of e46 coupes and some are manuals i am going to bid on another 335i in sydney friday and a z4 coupe in vic tuesday can't have enough bimmers
I had crc gasket stripper, a rag and a razor blade. That was all. I know some people use scourers but i didnt want to risk damaging the surface. If you keep the blade even and take car its safe. However a muppet will also damage it with a blade. It took probably an hour to clean off. Been running for about 18 months with no issues now.
No, I’ve haven’t plugged the other engine either. Keen to see what the build up is like. The other motor has had the catch can and pcv for about 5 or 6 thousand Ks now
3:31 WRONG!!!! of the 14 bolts inside, only the inside 10 are 30NM + 90 + 90 + 45. The outside 4 (smaller) ones are 30NM + 90 + 45. Google it! Don't strip your block!
I see a million videos of people using the special tools to lock the cam in position, but not a single video explaining that that position is. Am I missing something? It's frustrating.
Wow I can't believe the ledges are $600usd now.. I remember when they were like $300usd for the PAIR.. then when they were $500/pair, then I thought they peaked around $400-450each. Ffs. It's getting to the point someone could profit off something aftermarket..
Figures BMW has to have expensive tools to work on the engine. I had to always take my E-30 M3 to a service center to have the valves done. $800-1000 every 8000 miles.😤
![Installing The BMW N52 Cylinder Head - New Head Gasket & Torque Sequence [BMW N52 Rebuild Part 16]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/52FZT6jeDzI/mqdefault.jpg)
Amazing to see the engine, so clean! That torque wrench is hot fire! Wow, like shift lights coming on! So cool.
Thanks to Jake, you were a beast at putting the engine together!
Now if something breaks we will blame you! Of course not.
Also again thanks to all of the commenters here. Love reading your comments with tips, thoughts, questions and background information!
Hehe, yes Jake has offered a full warranty on the engine....:: I think hehe
Can't wait to see this baby back in the road, you guys have come such a long way! I'm so tempted to order the same turbos 😁 💯
I love seeing the engine just out like that.
Good job! Been waiting for this for a while now. Nice to see the progress. I genuinely enjoyed this video; I've never seen an N54 head install
After seeing all the work in the last few videos with the broken engine, I'm more and more convinced I will never get upgrade hybrids and just stick with the fastest stock turbos OTS MHD V5 E40 map... :D 7 sec 100-200 is more than enough and I love the low rpm response for drifting.
Haha, i dont blame you. I think we need to see a dragy or vbox verified time, your car would be the fastest stock turbo N54 car in the world and its not even a custom tune.
Whoop whoop! Major milestone there mate, cant wait to see it in the car!
Glad you resolved the head gasket question.
I see you didn't put new oil on any of the bolts internal to the engine. I have seen this as a step in quite a few other rebuilds, but not necessarily the N54. I can see how lubricated threads and bolt heads would impact torque, but maybe this isn't a problem with torque to yield (angle tightening) bolts?
To your comment about BMW loving angle tightening, torque to yield bolts are annoying because they are typically considered single use, but they are great from an engineering standpoint because they assure even clamping force across the head or cam boxes without relaying on the technician to get the torque perfect or other variables that impact torque like lubrication or surface finish. The bolt is actually stretching and because they all have the same diameter the same clamping force is developed. This way each bolt is applying the same force and the head and cam boxes will remain flat and not warped.
I personally can't answer with any substance regarding lubricating the bolts. Jake has done it the way he was trained at BMW, but that doesnt always mean its the "best" way just because a manufacturer does it.
You bring up an interesting point about lubing the bolts. Bmw doesn’t want you to apply antiseize or oil to spark plugs while tightening them.
If applying oil or lube to a bolt Ganges the torque spec , then does it cause it to be under or over torqued?
@@chrisrobles2012 Lubricating the threads would cause more clamping force (bolt tension) for the same torque because it is easier for the threads to slip past each other when lubricated. This would also cause more stress on the threads. It is very important when torqueing bolts to install then correctly, lubed or not lubed. Anti-seize should also be avoided on wheel studs because when lubed the same torque produces more clamping force and stress on the threads.
See here: www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html
I think Jake is doing it right. It just is interesting to me because you see the recommendation to lube the threads regularly, but I don't think it makes a difference for torque to yield bolts. I trust his method. I am sure he has rebuilt engines before with success.
They took down NewTIS so I can't check what BMW recommends.
Very interesting seeing it go back together 👍
The cam ledger has updated teflon seals, you should have replaced the old ductile iron sealing rings. The motor does look nice and it should run like it looks great work
NICE JOB, cant wait to roll race the black diamond again
Really looking forward to it. I have the diff now, so no excuses for me to be spinning up on the green light.
Yessss! TeamN54! 😎
Soon soon!!! I dont want to jinx it by saying a timeframe i want to get it back together. But i'm hoping i get the motors swapped faster than i fitted the turbos!
@@ZeroTo60Tube take your time mate, better to do it properly than to rush 😉
So now you can pull the old engine and see wazzup with that and possibly repair it for a spare. The cam box seal are a pain when they grove like that. Hopefully you can find some much cheaper ledges without a time crunch involved to fix that issue in the future. You'll be a pro by the time this is all said and done! :) Great content BTW!
Thanks man. The plan is to run this engine in stock form for a little while, the. Assuming the e92 engine isn’t too bad let damaged build that one up with some forged bits and other upgrades.
Brand new genuine ledges $515 each. Make sure you use the Teflon ring and avoid further damage
James Pumphrey on the TV in the background, we're all watching the same stuff 😂
Nice job love the videos Im part way through my ofhg replacement at the moment my self.
Ohhhh one of the best N54 initiation maintenance items hehe. I hope it goes nice and quick for you. Any questions give us a shout.
Very nice guys. 👌. Dutch regards, Nico
Thanks so much dude!!! Its wicked having an audience from all over the world!!
@@ZeroTo60Tube yep, n54 guys are like family☺😎.
I have contacted a few stores hoping one would sell the insert however no luck, the best i could get was a bare bone block with a closed deck insert completed and machined.
However that's in the USA and for the price you are better off just sending your block to het it done.
That being said, if you can find a local machine shop to make an insert using either a 3d scanner and a cnc machine they could possibly make you your own insert. Then the shop that does the EJ engines could do the installation.
It boggles the mind that stores are not willing to help. They want to sell you their services and that's it. It's not like closed decking is some sort of mystical dark art. It's literally just pressing a piece of billet aluminum into a block using the correct tools. Kinda like press fitting a bearing and machining everything to fit.
After the story got told that the crank needs to be re clearanced i asked if the insert is going into the bottom or the top of the block 😂 and if its going into the top then why do you need to do any cutting at the bottom when using a stock crank. It's not like bmw will sell you a engine where the crank fouls on the bottom of the block.
But anyway, just surprised by the replies.
Will still keep trying, hopefully i get lucky.
Thank you so much for your efforts. I do kinda get why companies dont want to sell thier deck. If they sell it and someone doesnt install it properly they may get the blame when it fails. But still bloody annoying none the less.
If in the future you do build a N54 engine, please do a Closed deck insert to stop the cylinders from oval-ing
I have been looking in to them. Do you know of any options i can buy and get installed down here in Australia?
@@ZeroTo60Tube let me try and find out for you. I know it requires machine work to fit the block. How substantial the machine work that's required is, i am not sure of.
Don't know if you need some proprietary tools or not.
But will reply here if i can find out.
@@francoiscombrinck3884 Please let me know what you find out. My searching sort of come to a dead end. There is a local shop here that does them for subarus, but they can't get the insert for the N54.
@@francoiscombrinck3884 oh PS just leave a fresh comment, sometimes youtube doesnt notify us on replies.
@@ZeroTo60Tube will do. I have emailed a couple of stores that do closed deck n54 conventions. Lets hope one is willing to help with a insert for you.
You can get a whole new cam ledge kit for around $1100 usd on ECS tuning!!
Yeah, then plus freight and import duty makes it way too expensive.
Great video
Question, how do I look up the the clampy tools to install cams straight please, oh and I like how he was working on the engine on sandals awesome 😎
I have just been doing them by feel lately. These were borrowed from a proper mechanic, but in all honesty, if you are careful they are not needed.
Good job. Did you buy new head bolts or you reused the old ones? Also did you say:
30n.m + 90° + 90° + 45° for the torque specs?
And are the same torque specs applicable for reused bolts?
I used new Genuine on this motor, however this year i did another one using Nissan Diesel bolts. th-cam.com/video/btZMocEVd9w/w-d-xo.html
Is the tool that you used for spacing the cam box part of the timing chain tool?
You should have still changed the metal ring on the cams to the new Teflon
Yeah, I probably should have. 2 reasons I didn’t. This motor is only temporary. And because of the wear already I was concerned that the new seal won’t seat in to the damaged ledge properly. Where the current setup the ledge and the metal seal have worn together.
Where can I get this cam ledge tool my friend?
Not the timing but the ledger install tool.
Hello i have one question ! i have bmw 335i n54 my engine is blowned ,can i install on my 335i engine of bmw 740li with n54 engine ??
since you did reuse the old cam boxes did you stay with the metal sealing rings or did you use the new teflon seal rings with the old boxes?
my N53 has the same internal layout and at 195k km (approx 122k mls) i suspect mine are worn quite simmilar
Stuck with the metal. I was concerned the teflon wont seal in to the damaged boxes. I figured the metal is whats caused the groove, so it should likely match up and and seal.
Great vid guys . Just wanted some clarification here : does the N54 come stock with forged crank and conrods and if so does the N55 B3M0 have the same?
The n54 does have forged rods, crank but cast or semi forged style pistons. That said the forged rods in the N54 are not as strong as aftermarket rods. They will handle nice peak power. But too much boost too low in the RPM range and they will bend. People say the N55 is not as strong as the N54, however i really have only seen failures due to lack of maintenance or people, well, really its following BMWs maintenance plans which are ludicrous. In my opinion the reason the N54s tend to make more power is the stock twins will flow more than the stock single on the N55. So same mods on the two motors, the N54 will net more power due to its turbos. That said the N55, will probably be more responsive.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for clearing this up. Keep up the good work !
I know this video is old but do you remember what was the final torque for the head bolts ?
They are done degrees. So its 30nm, then 90, 90 then 45 deg.
nice job i don't think that scoring will play up with the vanos on a different note have you looked at your dads car yet were the detent springs broken what about the fan problem
Hey Glenn, the e46 is registered. Fan was missing the resistor completely. So ended up just fitting a replacement second hand fan, plugged it in, fitted the fuse to the correct position and BAM it worked. Haven't looked in to the gearbox, however apparently its normal SMG shift speed. And to be fair it just feels like a SMG 3 in full soft mode, so i bet it is right. The ac is now cold (somehow) and one of the headlights did need some wires inside replaced. Some turps removed the black paint from the guard flashers. But yeah, it didn't take too much to get it registered. Currently on the hunt for a manual gearbox. I think that will be first on the list of mods.
@@ZeroTo60Tube keep an eye on pickles salvage auction there was a e46 m3 manual they listed in adelaide a fortnight ago it was then removed so i expect it will come up again in the coming weeks if it does i will let you know pickles vic get a lot of e46 coupes and some are manuals i am going to bid on another 335i in sydney friday and a z4 coupe in vic tuesday can't have enough bimmers
Unfortunately that only works on the E46 M3 SMG. The non M SMG models can not just be converted like the M3. The gearbox is actually different.
What did you guys use to clean the block and head from gasket material ?
I had crc gasket stripper, a rag and a razor blade. That was all. I know some people use scourers but i didnt want to risk damaging the surface. If you keep the blade even and take car its safe. However a muppet will also damage it with a blade. It took probably an hour to clean off. Been running for about 18 months with no issues now.
Did you guys send the block and head to get resurfaced or did you guys just clean it
Just cleaned it. Both the head and block. Spent quite a while, being very careful. Its been good so far.
Were the head bolt threads oiled prior to being installed and torqued?
I personally can not remember.
are the 4 smaller head bolts on the outside the same torque specs?
Hi, Did you plug the blowby ports on the head just like you did on your original n54 engine in your e92?
No, I’ve haven’t plugged the other engine either. Keen to see what the build up is like. The other motor has had the catch can and pcv for about 5 or 6 thousand Ks now
Good stuff
Appreciate it
Can you confirm torque spec for the cam ledge please?
batter change hpfp attest open place
I wanted to ask how much does the cam ledges cost and if 600 is a good deal for the set?
$600 for a set is a bargain. I only checked FCP and they were $600us each, then plus frieght and import duty makes them just too expensive.
Do you have to resurface the engine head for a head gasket change ?
You should. But can get away with not doing it in some cases.
Do you build motors for customers?
No no. Just play with our own stuff for now
Looks like you didn't lube up the head bolts huh?
Cant remember exactly on this one. It was so long ago.
3:31 WRONG!!!! of the 14 bolts inside, only the inside 10 are 30NM + 90 + 90 + 45. The outside 4 (smaller) ones are 30NM + 90 + 45. Google it! Don't strip your block!
I see a million videos of people using the special tools to lock the cam in position, but not a single video explaining that that position is. Am I missing something? It's frustrating.
The tool locks in to groves on the cams and the crank with a pin. From memory it’s cyl 1 tdc.
💪
Can you keep the camera still...adhd
Wow I can't believe the ledges are $600usd now.. I remember when they were like $300usd for the PAIR.. then when they were $500/pair, then I thought they peaked around $400-450each. Ffs. It's getting to the point someone could profit off something aftermarket..
Figures BMW has to have expensive tools to work on the engine. I had to always take my E-30 M3 to a service center to have the valves done. $800-1000 every 8000 miles.😤
Wow, didn't realise those engines needed valve adjustment.
@@ZeroTo60Tube The S-14 engine is built like a high performance motorcycle engine. Needs regular valve adjustment.
👏👏👍👍
Is there a difference between the 1.2 and the 1.5 head gaskets?
Just the thickness