I just can't understand how people could dislike such a good video, there is just anything to dislike !!! they have to say thank you for the effort to share your knowledge about the stuff !!
Thanks for these tips, man. Very useful. I've had my double Iron Cobra for six years, and I've never taken the time to figure out how to get both beaters to behave the same. I appreciate the time you put into sharing this info!
Thank you, THANK YOU! the video at 3:52 solves the dreaded pedal click problem I and soooo many people have posted about on other forums...with no answers! You are a gentleman and a scholar!
Other tips were good too....but cheers for the "hidden" Allen wrench sockets under the beater casing, one turn of the wrench and you saved me from buying new bearings to try to fix it lol!
All in all. You must understand that my intention was never to put you down or bash your video. It is not a useless 30 second video with fuzzy images and no spoken explanation. You put work into that and what you were saying made a lot of sense to me. It was more of a helping hand, if you want to see it that way. Regards and thanks,
First of all, i need to say this is one of the best videos around that explains about adjusting the IC's.After watching this i bought right away Ardent Reel Butter Bearing Lube you can find it at amazon or your local walmart if you're lucky.Two things are really important other than lubrication , First thing is the tension of the pedals.As he said left one should be a little tighter not whole alot, just a bit.And the second is the beater shaft and how you shift it to the right. Thanks alot :)))
@curtisthewignall I come from an Engineering background, dad was a mechanic, his dad was, his dad was a blacksmith. I love mechanics and stuff, and making things work better than expected. AMAZING how much difference the right lubricants make, thats why race teams make such a big deal about them. A lot of experimentation and common sense.
dude. im gonna spend the next week studying this video. finally someone who has their beaters the best distance from the head. thank you for making the time to make this video. btw you sound like boromir from lotr. (sean bean)
Killer video. I did most of the adjustments except lubricant and my pedals are FAR better than they were, however I have one issue, something on the slave pedal is creating friction someplace. If I disconnect the "rod" from the left pedal, then by hand move the beaters to the bass drum and release, both beaters swing back and forth many times as in this video here, but if I then connect the pedal and do the same, the slave beater only moves two or three times then halts.
I liked the video. Straight to it, no hype, simple and quick. No mucking about. @1:19 where do you find that what you are talking about? Is silicone spray ok?
I've been having a problem where one beater is too low and lower then other one ( Thanks to my brilliant band mates ) the low keeps hitting my foot and really hurts and I've trying to figure it out for hours. Thanks you really helped.
It's actually common. It's gotta do with the smoothness of the pedal & how the rod is made. I have a Speed Cobra and the slave lags a little compared to the main pedal. The ONLY pedal that has no lag on the slave pedal are the Axis pedals. Not sure about the Pearl Demon Drives though, they could be close to zero lag too.
Try shortening the beaters a bit, or take off the beater balncers. If you're not getting enough rebound, make sure you're technique is right. When you hit the batter head, on the rebound make sure you're lifting your foot slightly on the return otherwise you kill the energy.
it has to be cause they don't have the Iron Cobra Double Bass Pedal.. I have Pearl Eliminator and that video gave me the right steps to keep my pedal clean and functional although it is not an Iron Cobra...so, that video is perfect, also for me thanks reddieseled
It's the drive shaft (the connection rod). The drive shaft affects the performance and the feel of the slave pedal. What pedals are you using btw? Again, if you want your slave pedal to be equal to the main pedal, get the Axis Universal Drive Shaft. That will solve your problem.
@TaintedConnor The springs on either side of the master pedal (left one is the slave, right is the master) control tension. Down the bottom of that spring you'll see two rotating nuts separated by a bit of metal. To tighten the spring, screw the top one a little so it goes up the spring, then push the whole threaded part of the spring down. After doing that, tighten the bottom nut up until it hits the separating block.
it's not actually lag, there's something causing friction so that the slave beater doesn't swing freely. without the slave pedal, the beater will swing back and forth a dozen or more times (but with the bar connected). then connect the pedal to the bar, try the same and it's 3 swings back and forth then the beater comes to a complete halt.
@trashpixie I played in bands from 1970 to 1980 and gave it another go, later-on, in my early 50's. But in the early years, the Ludwig SpeedKing was the thing to have. There was nothing else to come close to it. I guess that a well lubed and maintained SpeedKing would have been quiet too. But who cared, then??? This is it. Myself, had I been on the same set as Page and Jones, I would never have cared about a disturbing noise from my drum-set. "Nobody will ever hear that..." :O))
I use PTFE spray, or teflon spray. It's basically the same thing as WD40, but its based on various plastics as apposed to oil and petrolium products which can get messy in an indoor environment. If you want a really quick fix, just wipe a dab, I mean a DAB on vascaline on the spring hooks. WD40 has its uses, like cleaning up rusty parts and repelling water.
Not a drummer but a musician and also a good tech. Your video was very instructional, but I might add my 2¢. When sawing-off a bolt, always slip a nut unto it prior to cutting. When the cut is done, removing the nut will reshape the damaged threads. You don't want to force a crooked thread into the body of your pedal? WD-40 is nothing more than soap mixed with turpentine (or so). Use your prefered PTFE, Teflon or lithium graese for the spring loops as well. Messy, but works for real.
@alvintkh i use PTFE oil for just about everything. You can even clean pedals with it as the dirt sticks to the oil once on a rag. Another trick I do as dirt tends not to stick to PTFE.
I have the pedals in this video of course, Tama Iron Cobra. In the video here, reddiesled demonstrates pushing the beaters into the head, then releasing them and they both then oscillate back and forth for many seconds. As far as I know, he's not using anything but the Iron Cobra drive shaft. I'm not saying my two pedals won't stay in sync, I'm saying my slave pedal beater won't oscillate at all once the pedal itself is connected to the drive shaft. It's OK with drive shaft only.
@Mtldrm22 Don't tighten the srpings too much, about halfway is more than enough to play 16ths at 200bpm. PTFE spray is better than thick grease for the bearings. Also, make sure you work it in. The paraclamp is probably going wonky as you need to make sure its grabbing the hoop slightly to the right so that when you tighten it, it pulls it level. Youll see. Make sure you're bass drum is alngled back, with about 1" of clearence off the ground at the front. You'll get better sound too. Nick
@joeyjuniorjunior Nearly all bearings out there are sealed. However. they can and do dry out from time to time. Thin oil is a quick fix. The bearings in a pedal can have thin oil as there is no real load on them. If you get fed up or mess up the bearing, just buy some more ABEC rated ones from a store. Nearly every town has one. $10 tops.
By the way, about your comment on pedal skeeking. Have you ever noticed that in the sudio version of Moby Dick, there is a skeek sound? It is not, to my knowledge, some freak feed-back from Page. It is, for all I know, a genuine Bonzo's pedal skeek. Take a listen and give a comment about what you heard.
@yoshiskato If you're thinking different shoes will make you faster, then I'm afraid you're looking in the wrong place. Technique is everything! My trusty vans are all I wear at gigs and they seem fine... People with really light direct-drive pedals sometimes like heavy boots, but it's pointless with a pedal like an Iron Cobra.
@fluffyabyss, weird, I've been using WD-40 on my cobras for 2+ years for countless gigs, cobras still run as good as the day I bought em. Best 250 I've ever spent.
VFoVendetta he isnt saying wd-is bad. But it’s a thin water displacement lube. It’s not as good a thick line that will stay on the parts for a long time
Hey, could you make a video, or just tell me how you made your home made bass drum practice pad. I bought one but it wobbles a lot, which doesn't give it a "real" feel of an actual bass drum head. It's like playing a super lose head. Anyways, yours doesn't seem to wobble. I'm pretty handy with wood, what I would most like to know is what you used for the part that the beater hits?
the pads upon my beater heads are pretty well worn-do you think there is anyway I could get some replacement felts for the beaters on said pedal, or am I just urinating into on coming wind....?
@jbold5 ha, sorry I get that a lot! Yes, just spin the axle round fast really. You can do it by hand or with something like a flex-link and a cordless drill. If you want a good way of doing it cheap, cut about 2 feet of rag or soft string and rap it round the axle once.. then pull the cloth too and through.. it will get looser and looser.
@heckawesomefunnydude wd40 is oil with some surfactants added in for cleaning. it's a temporary fix. I like using chapstick with lithium grease and or PTFE. Lithium grease is great for hinges, metal on metal, chains etc. Use PTFE bearing loob IF NEEDED. most of the time, its fine without.
@dipschmidt1 I've never really tried. A higher pedal board to me makes everything a lot easier as you get more leverage and chance for the pedal to recover into the original position. Not only that, but when you plat john bonham style triplets, you can just use a few inches of beater angle as the pedal is already tensioned up, so you get a quick rebound. My opinion anyway.
@pharcydebug A dab of light grease or even abit of chaptick will work fine. If its really pissing you off, just sand the inside of the spring lightly then pass a piece of string with oil on it a couple of times through the spring adjuster hole, a bit like flossing, then re-oil assemble and play!
@ reddieseled I have a question......How much of a difference is there between the Power glide and the Rolling glide?? I have a Power glide but I'm thinking of getting a Rolling glide due to the kind of music I play.
I have a few questions....can you adjust both drum beaters on the double pedal?, also can you adjust the foot boards separate from one another like the single pedals can?
@reddieseled Thanks for the reply man. Also, my slave beater doesn't swing nearly as much as the master beater and I have the spring tension set to almost max. I just sprayed some lithium grease in the bearing on the slave pedal and it helped a little bit. Also, when tighten the para-clamp onto the bass drum hoop the whole pedal rises off the a ground a little bit, is this normal?
Is it possible to make a Tama IC off-set double-pedalwith spare parts? You know like the Sonor one, and the Off-Set Co. one? I had the Off-Set one nicked, but thought it to be rattley.
@winnnny123 thats right man, don't! unless its something like metal on metal contact like the springs. I use it just to stop the annoying ping and squeeks you get on the spring. Chap stick or vasceline is far better for the job though. Dont put WD40 on bearings, it kills them!
Hey man I bought this pedal but I frickin hate it no matter what I do I can't seem to make it. Feel good so what works for u spring tension wise or foot board height and how do u get it back to factory settings ?
@reddieseled I find if I don' tighten the springs almost all the way then I don't get enough rebound. Also, I have my beaters angled about 5 inches from the bass drum. Do you think it's better to have them farther away and the springs looser to play faster?
bought used power glide dbl... not bad only way to get pedals to swing together is to adjust the black plastic piece to a quicker response on master. that far right end also has a gap that emits squeaks. Will try PTEF... those springs under the pedal for rebound on the 900 seem worn out on the slave as well. The previous owner probably switched them around. Yanking and stretching all that and adding some tape and some guiding foam seems to help the spring from bending sideways. I have the springs pushed back to the heel all the way...Took some time setting this up hope it can take what I am going to deliver we'll see
I should also mention, it's not worth squirting lube all over your new pedal as the bearings are new and pre greased. This is only worth doing if your confident your pedal is making squeeks, and the bearings feel like theyre binding. Bear in mind that is fairly easy to knock the bearings out if you loosen the grub screws on the pillar. Replacing all the bearings should cost no more that $10.
@winnnny123 Thats right, dont! I only have the magic pen for the springs, its like a felt tip pen that applys the smallest amount. Dont get it anywhere near the bearings
@ericmsandoval Hm, I dont personally own a powerglide, just the rolling glide, but Ive played the powerglides and similar pedals at gigs. To me they always have a light feel at the top, which can be annoying as you arent used to it. Its all horses for courses, but a rolling glide is pretty 'neutral' feeling all round. I'd stick with your powerglides.
@Mtldrm22 There wwasn't a space on mine. I don't think the cams on the IC junior can be moved. Infact I don't think any other pedal can. It's not hugely important, but it helps in getting both the beaters feeling the same.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
I just can't understand how people could dislike such a good video, there is just anything to dislike !!! they have to say thank you for the effort to share your knowledge about the stuff !!
Thanks for these tips, man. Very useful. I've had my double Iron Cobra for six years, and I've never taken the time to figure out how to get both beaters to behave the same. I appreciate the time you put into sharing this info!
Thank you, THANK YOU! the video at 3:52 solves the dreaded pedal click problem I and soooo many people have posted about on other forums...with no answers! You are a gentleman and a scholar!
Other tips were good too....but cheers for the "hidden" Allen wrench sockets under the beater casing, one turn of the wrench and you saved me from buying new bearings to try to fix it lol!
All in all. You must understand that my intention was never to put you down or bash your video. It is not a useless 30 second video with fuzzy images and no spoken explanation. You put work into that and what you were saying made a lot of sense to me.
It was more of a helping hand, if you want to see it that way.
Regards and thanks,
The tiny little bolt at the back of the beater head itself. Slacken it half a turn and roate the beater so that when it touches the head it is flat.
Thanks for sharing with us, some good advise to try out. Looking forward to seeing how it works for me
First of all, i need to say this is one of the best videos around that explains about adjusting the IC's.After watching this i bought right away Ardent Reel Butter Bearing Lube you can find it at amazon or your local walmart if you're lucky.Two things are really important other than lubrication , First thing is the tension of the pedals.As he said left one should be a little tighter not whole alot, just a bit.And the second is the beater shaft and how you shift it to the right. Thanks alot :)))
Best pedal advice ever. Thank you!
Couldn't help but chuckle when you said "master beater" but this is a really handy guide, just what i was searching for, thanks!!
@curtisthewignall I come from an Engineering background, dad was a mechanic, his dad was, his dad was a blacksmith. I love mechanics and stuff, and making things work better than expected. AMAZING how much difference the right lubricants make, thats why race teams make such a big deal about them. A lot of experimentation and common sense.
dude. im gonna spend the next week studying this video. finally someone who has their beaters the best distance from the head. thank you for making the time to make this video. btw you sound like boromir from lotr. (sean bean)
Thanks for putting this up! Great tips.
I will be taking your advice when I buy my new cobras. My current ones are on their deathbed.
Great vid dude.. I was losing faith in my IC's, but after watching this and some grease and cleaning we're back on full talking terms again!!
Thanks for the tips! I picked one of these used, needing attention as you described.
you covered everything perfectly great video,i need to now deal with my bearing and tension of the left, this helped alot
thanks, going into record in 2 weeks now my pedal is in beast mode!
grind time!
great video, i like how chill you are. good job, thanks for the tips
Killer video. I did most of the adjustments except lubricant and my pedals are FAR better than they were, however I have one issue, something on the slave pedal is creating friction someplace. If I disconnect the "rod" from the left pedal, then by hand move the beaters to the bass drum and release, both beaters swing back and forth many times as in this video here, but if I then connect the pedal and do the same, the slave beater only moves two or three times then halts.
How did you move the beaters closer together? Should make a vid for that. The other tips helped a lot by the way
Never seen that bass drum before.. Looks awesome
Apologies for lack of activity on here and my East Yorkshire accent. I will be making some new videos regarding tuning and other tips and tricks
I liked the video. Straight to it, no hype, simple and quick. No mucking about. @1:19 where do you find that what you are talking about? Is silicone spray ok?
Silicone spray is fine! Any mineral or bike oil will do the same thing. Just avoid spraying wd40 into any bearings
A man lubing up his cobra. Brilliant.
I've been having a problem where one beater is too low and lower then other one ( Thanks to my brilliant band mates ) the low keeps hitting my foot and really hurts and I've trying to figure it out for hours. Thanks you really helped.
AHHH... exactly what I was looking for.. thanks for posting this.
awesome really great tips! i got my used chrome iron cobra pedals to work like new!
It's actually common. It's gotta do with the smoothness of the pedal & how the rod is made. I have a Speed Cobra and the slave lags a little compared to the main pedal. The ONLY pedal that has no lag on the slave pedal are the Axis pedals. Not sure about the Pearl Demon Drives though, they could be close to zero lag too.
Try shortening the beaters a bit, or take off the beater balncers. If you're not getting enough rebound, make sure you're technique is right. When you hit the batter head, on the rebound make sure you're lifting your foot slightly on the return otherwise you kill the energy.
it has to be cause they don't have the Iron Cobra Double Bass Pedal.. I have Pearl Eliminator and that video gave me the right steps to keep my pedal clean and functional although it is not an Iron Cobra...so, that video is perfect, also for me
thanks reddieseled
It's the drive shaft (the connection rod). The drive shaft affects the performance and the feel of the slave pedal. What pedals are you using btw?
Again, if you want your slave pedal to be equal to the main pedal, get the Axis Universal Drive Shaft. That will solve your problem.
Great video man!
@VanDahh felt! make sure you don't use the felt beaters with fabric beater patches as it eats them up to a fine white dust.
hey nice video man, just wandering whether the iron cobra is better or the dw5000 ???
cheers !
If you want ultimate speed change the bearings in both pedals for bones Swiss skate bearings, no joke they're AWESOME
BlueCrewSlackers thanks for the tip. Is 8mm the correct size that will fit an Iron Cobra 900?
BlueCrewSlackers most def.
@TaintedConnor The springs on either side of the master pedal (left one is the slave, right is the master) control tension. Down the bottom of that spring you'll see two rotating nuts separated by a bit of metal. To tighten the spring, screw the top one a little so it goes up the spring, then push the whole threaded part of the spring down. After doing that, tighten the bottom nut up until it hits the separating block.
it's not actually lag, there's something causing friction so that the slave beater doesn't swing freely. without the slave pedal, the beater will swing back and forth a dozen or more times (but with the bar connected). then connect the pedal to the bar, try the same and it's 3 swings back and forth then the beater comes to a complete halt.
great tips thanks a lot, and dude how did you make that practice pad that is sick please get back to me!
@trashpixie I played in bands from 1970 to 1980 and gave it another go, later-on, in my early 50's.
But in the early years, the Ludwig SpeedKing was the thing to have. There was nothing else to come close to it. I guess that a well lubed and maintained SpeedKing would have been quiet too. But who cared, then???
This is it. Myself, had I been on the same set as Page and Jones, I would never have cared about a disturbing noise from my drum-set. "Nobody will ever hear that..."
:O))
@Bakanelli I got this one in 2003 I believe. Its the older one with all metal parts.
I use PTFE spray, or teflon spray. It's basically the same thing as WD40, but its based on various plastics as apposed to oil and petrolium products which can get messy in an indoor environment. If you want a really quick fix, just wipe a dab, I mean a DAB on vascaline on the spring hooks.
WD40 has its uses, like cleaning up rusty parts and repelling water.
cheers for the inof. will give this a go. left pedal is lacking ze power i need =p
Not a drummer but a musician and also a good tech. Your video was very instructional, but I might add my 2¢.
When sawing-off a bolt, always slip a nut unto it prior to cutting. When the cut is done, removing the nut will reshape the damaged threads. You don't want to force a crooked thread into the body of your pedal?
WD-40 is nothing more than soap mixed with turpentine (or so). Use your prefered PTFE, Teflon or lithium graese for the spring loops as well. Messy, but works for real.
@alvintkh i use PTFE oil for just about everything. You can even clean pedals with it as the dirt sticks to the oil once on a rag. Another trick I do as dirt tends not to stick to PTFE.
Great video
I have the pedals in this video of course, Tama Iron Cobra. In the video here, reddiesled demonstrates pushing the beaters into the head, then releasing them and they both then oscillate back and forth for many seconds. As far as I know, he's not using anything but the Iron Cobra drive shaft. I'm not saying my two pedals won't stay in sync, I'm saying my slave pedal beater won't oscillate at all once the pedal itself is connected to the drive shaft. It's OK with drive shaft only.
@Mtldrm22
Don't tighten the srpings too much, about halfway is more than enough to play 16ths at 200bpm. PTFE spray is better than thick grease for the bearings. Also, make sure you work it in. The paraclamp is probably going wonky as you need to make sure its grabbing the hoop slightly to the right so that when you tighten it, it pulls it level. Youll see.
Make sure you're bass drum is alngled back, with about 1" of clearence off the ground at the front. You'll get better sound too.
Nick
@joeyjuniorjunior Nearly all bearings out there are sealed. However. they can and do dry out from time to time. Thin oil is a quick fix. The bearings in a pedal can have thin oil as there is no real load on them. If you get fed up or mess up the bearing, just buy some more ABEC rated ones from a store. Nearly every town has one. $10 tops.
By the way, about your comment on pedal skeeking. Have you ever noticed that in the sudio version of Moby Dick, there is a skeek sound?
It is not, to my knowledge, some freak feed-back from Page. It is, for all I know, a genuine Bonzo's pedal skeek.
Take a listen and give a comment about what you heard.
@yoshiskato If you're thinking different shoes will make you faster, then I'm afraid you're looking in the wrong place. Technique is everything! My trusty vans are all I wear at gigs and they seem fine... People with really light direct-drive pedals sometimes like heavy boots, but it's pointless with a pedal like an Iron Cobra.
@fluffyabyss, weird, I've been using WD-40 on my cobras for 2+ years for countless gigs, cobras still run as good as the day I bought em. Best 250 I've ever spent.
VFoVendetta he isnt saying wd-is bad. But it’s a thin water displacement lube. It’s not as good a thick line that will stay on the parts for a long time
nice video and tips.
Hey, could you make a video, or just tell me how you made your home made bass drum practice pad. I bought one but it wobbles a lot, which doesn't give it a "real" feel of an actual bass drum head. It's like playing a super lose head. Anyways, yours doesn't seem to wobble.
I'm pretty handy with wood, what I would most like to know is what you used for the part that the beater hits?
Nice vid. Would gun oil be a bad idea?
thank you sooo much these tips help so much. (: appreciate it!
@purplehalfstack they were actually ghosts, or spirit 'orbs'
@blacksabbathfan97
I really recomand the Iron Cobras,
Thanks! Cool video helped me alot!
the pads upon my beater heads are pretty well worn-do you think there is anyway I could get some replacement felts for the beaters on said pedal, or am I just urinating into on coming wind....?
@jbold5
ha, sorry I get that a lot!
Yes, just spin the axle round fast really. You can do it by hand or with something like a flex-link and a cordless drill.
If you want a good way of doing it cheap, cut about 2 feet of rag or soft string and rap it round the axle once.. then pull the cloth too and through.. it will get looser and looser.
@heckawesomefunnydude wd40 is oil with some surfactants added in for cleaning. it's a temporary fix. I like using chapstick with lithium grease and or PTFE. Lithium grease is great for hinges, metal on metal, chains etc. Use PTFE bearing loob IF NEEDED. most of the time, its fine without.
Oh ok, I finally got it now. Shit is easy haha. Was sending sos signals for a bit. This shit sounds way better. Thanks yo
Still a brilliant video
nice vid, how tight are your springs approximately
@dipschmidt1 I've never really tried. A higher pedal board to me makes everything a lot easier as you get more leverage and chance for the pedal to recover into the original position. Not only that, but when you plat john bonham style triplets, you can just use a few inches of beater angle as the pedal is already tensioned up, so you get a quick rebound. My opinion anyway.
Pls suggest, should one remove the springs from the clamp after having finished playing. Asking if it makes the springs more durable. Thanks!
@Mp5Drummer i was asking maybe are the shoes... maybe the double bass pedal
so does a higher footboard angle help when you do heel toe or the swivel technique? i have the same pedals, just with the cobra coil :p
@MrHooklineandsinner well it should do! check to see if all the screws are slack??
@pharcydebug A dab of light grease or even abit of chaptick will work fine. If its really pissing you off, just sand the inside of the spring lightly then pass a piece of string with oil on it a couple of times through the spring adjuster hole, a bit like flossing, then re-oil assemble and play!
nice vid, how tight are your springs approxamitly
@aPaultoRemember69 Depends. id say avoid it, and look for thin teflon or PTFE spray.
@ reddieseled I have a question......How much of a difference is there between the Power glide and the Rolling glide?? I have a Power glide but I'm thinking of getting a Rolling glide due to the kind of music I play.
I have the same pedal and I need to know in which year it was manufactored. If you know please replay me. Thanks
I have a PDP double pedal and I wanna know how to make them smooth like The Iron Cobras.
Where are the notches for the slave pedal to show you how you are adjusting the foot board and the beater angle.?????
I have a few questions....can you adjust both drum beaters on the double pedal?, also can you adjust the foot boards separate from one another like the single pedals can?
@LarsThusingDrummer Two singles won't always be faster, but they will be even so each foot gets used to the same feel, like same size sticks.
@reddieseled Thanks for the reply man. Also, my slave beater doesn't swing nearly as much as the master beater and I have the spring tension set to almost max. I just sprayed some lithium grease in the bearing on the slave pedal and it helped a little bit. Also, when tighten the para-clamp onto the bass drum hoop the whole pedal rises off the a ground a little bit, is this normal?
Is it possible to make a Tama IC off-set double-pedalwith spare parts? You know like the Sonor one, and the Off-Set Co. one? I had the Off-Set one nicked, but thought it to be rattley.
@winnnny123
thats right man, don't! unless its something like metal on metal contact like the springs. I use it just to stop the annoying ping and squeeks you get on the spring. Chap stick or vasceline is far better for the job though.
Dont put WD40 on bearings, it kills them!
Hey man I bought this pedal but I frickin hate it no matter what I do I can't seem to make it. Feel good so what works for u spring tension wise or foot board height and how do u get it back to factory settings ?
@DRUMMER1926 slacken off the black llan screw that hold the left beater on the cam. slide it along to the right a few MM's
The part I'm talking about is having the two beaters right next to the chain on the master pedal.
@reddieseled I find if I don' tighten the springs almost all the way then I don't get enough rebound. Also, I have my beaters angled about 5 inches from the bass drum. Do you think it's better to have them farther away and the springs looser to play faster?
@HARDOSE87 thanks man, it's pretty intuitive stuff. I'm a total gear / engineering geek, and think of drum hardware as machinery.. It is!
bought used power glide dbl... not bad only way to get pedals to swing together is to adjust the black plastic piece to a quicker response on master. that far right end also has a gap that emits squeaks. Will try PTEF... those springs under the pedal for rebound on the 900 seem worn out on the slave as well. The previous owner probably switched them around. Yanking and stretching all that and adding some tape and some guiding foam seems to help the spring from bending sideways. I have the springs pushed back to the heel all the way...Took some time setting this up hope it can take what I am going to deliver we'll see
any suggestions to get a slappy sound like the john blackwell dvd preview video?
John Blackwell: Master Series Video Preview!
that video
Awesome.
Cheers!
@pharcydebug you can buy new springs pretty cheap i bet. at least you can for DW pedals and they're like 3 bucks per spring
favorited! because im getting the tomorow :DDD
DW40 is not a good lubricrant for drum pedals right? I've heard it like eats it away or something
I should also mention, it's not worth squirting lube all over your new pedal as the bearings are new and pre greased. This is only worth doing if your confident your pedal is making squeeks, and the bearings feel like theyre binding. Bear in mind that is fairly easy to knock the bearings out if you loosen the grub screws on the pillar. Replacing all the bearings should cost no more that $10.
@reddieseled you just slacken the alan bolt and bump the whole cam accross. thats it.
@winnnny123 Thats right, dont! I only have the magic pen for the springs, its like a felt tip pen that applys the smallest amount. Dont get it anywhere near the bearings
Yeah you say that but do you take the black cap off then slide it right?
@ericmsandoval Hm, I dont personally own a powerglide, just the rolling glide, but Ive played the powerglides and similar pedals at gigs. To me they always have a light feel at the top, which can be annoying as you arent used to it. Its all horses for courses, but a rolling glide is pretty 'neutral' feeling all round. I'd stick with your powerglides.
@Mtldrm22
There wwasn't a space on mine. I don't think the cams on the IC junior can be moved. Infact I don't think any other pedal can. It's not hugely important, but it helps in getting both the beaters feeling the same.
thanks man, well helped
@iwimp1994 yeah I like the the DW's, but they feel a bit cumbersome from being overly engineered, not that its a bad thing..
@jbold5
tighten the slave spring further than the main spring, easssy