I have the same feeling as you about not converting a classic tool. My previous scrub was a cheap HF plane. It was difficult sharpening the tiny rounded blade, almost dangerous. The blade also has a tendency to retract and lose setting, especially under the harsh conditions as a scrub. I bought a Kobalt plane and converted it today. The only conversion I did was to flatten and round the blade and widen the mouth. I didn't worry about smoothing/flattening the sole. Works great. The Kobalt plane is a bit heavier than most of my other planes, and I figure that will just help it push through the cuts.
New subscriber, and I've already learned at least half a dozen new things from 3 vids! Tile for flat, Easy Tac for the sandpaper! I thought I was gonna have to have a tile or piece of glass for each grit. Thanks, man!
Nice video. I might give the cobalt a try. The only thing I would do different is flatten the sole with the blade retracted and the frog in place. Just so its flattened with the standard working pressures on the plane. I'm not an expert by any means, just my 2 cents worth.
Thanks for the idea. I tried it out and it's certainly a better choice than converting a Harbor Freight plane. The only thing I had to do was thin down that huge tote the Kobalt comes with. After reshaping the tote, it's much more comfortable, scrubs well, and I don't have to modify a vintage plane. Thanks again!
Thanks man! I never thought to reshape the tote 🤔 that's a pretty great idea actually haha. Those Kobalts are the perfect thing for scub conversions and I totally agree with you; I felt MUCH better about modifying a Kobalt than I would have modifying a beautiful vintage plane
The chip breaker is steel plated with copper and then plated with chrome. They do this because the chrome does not stick to the steel but does stick to copper and copper sticks very well to steel.
@@Craftswright I have an old Stanley #5 that I've done the 6" camber on, but have had difficulty keeping the blade sharp. I'll probably open the mouth up wider as well. It was already worn and wider than usual, but would benefit from widening some more.
Quick question: why did you choose to flatten the sole with sandpaper rather than your diamond sharpening plates? I'm just trying to figure out if there was a reason so that if I take this route, I'd have to purchase something else for the shop - which then has to be stored - or if I can use my existing sharpening stone system?
Hey Sandy, I opted for that route because I could start with a very rough grit (like 40 or 60 grit sandpaper) to get the bulk of the waste removed before moving on to finer grits. The other reason is surface area. My diamond stones just aren’t long enough to get a full stroke on the sole and maintain contact across the entire sole. Without this, you run the risk of introducing a curve to the sole. It can be done with plates, you would just need to be patient and careful. On the other hand, I can’t imagine a scenario where you wouldn’t be happy buying a piece of float glass (one of the cheapest and most flat surfaces you can get) and some sandpaper. They’re more useful than you might imagine. Let me know if you have any more questions, I’m happy to answer them!
Did this with a Harbour Freight 33 Windsor. All I got is tear out, though the edge is about 31deg and the thing just tears out fir and pine. Any ideas please?
same it sucked, even tho scruby nubs recommended it as a scrub plane. I purchased a number 6 stanley from home depot with the plastic handles and made that into my scrub fore plane. The 33 windsor is just to light and small for prepping wood for a smoothing plane.
@@swiftxrapid919 I fixed my plight after some more research and persistence. Stumpy Nubs was correct - its a good scrub platform. For me, I had to adjust my frog. I flattened the frog to improve contact with the iron. Then, adjusted the frogs position properly for the task at hand. Suddenly.......... beautiful work.
I'm impressed that the blade held an edge. I've made a number of "cheap" tool purchases thinking I could tinker them into good working order. Not always, but most of the time I find some fundamental issue (like edge steel) that make the cheap tool unrecoverable. I'll have to give Kobalt another look. Thanks for putting in the time.
Oh man, if you haven't bought any yet, DO IT. There's something so satisfying about a well set up plane taking silky smooth shavings.... it's life changing! You too my friend :)
I have the same feeling as you about not converting a classic tool.
My previous scrub was a cheap HF plane. It was difficult sharpening the tiny rounded blade, almost dangerous. The blade also has a tendency to retract and lose setting, especially under the harsh conditions as a scrub.
I bought a Kobalt plane and converted it today. The only conversion I did was to flatten and round the blade and widen the mouth. I didn't worry about smoothing/flattening the sole. Works great.
The Kobalt plane is a bit heavier than most of my other planes, and I figure that will just help it push through the cuts.
Great Job. Just wasted 2 hrs yesterday screwing around with a festool power planer. Decided then to scrub that thing. Nice timing you.
It’s kind of shocking how fast a solid scrub plane isn’t it? I know I’m taken aback each time I use one haha
Great video, I need to do this. Thanks for sharing.
New subscriber, and I've already learned at least half a dozen new things from 3 vids! Tile for flat, Easy Tac for the sandpaper! I thought I was gonna have to have a tile or piece of glass for each grit. Thanks, man!
Nice video. I might give the cobalt a try. The only thing I would do different is flatten the sole with the blade retracted and the frog in place. Just so its flattened with the standard working pressures on the plane. I'm not an expert by any means, just my 2 cents worth.
I’ve always heard to do this too
thanks for the video and details
Thanks for the idea. I tried it out and it's certainly a better choice than converting a Harbor Freight plane. The only thing I had to do was thin down that huge tote the Kobalt comes with. After reshaping the tote, it's much more comfortable, scrubs well, and I don't have to modify a vintage plane. Thanks again!
Thanks man! I never thought to reshape the tote 🤔 that's a pretty great idea actually haha. Those Kobalts are the perfect thing for scub conversions and I totally agree with you; I felt MUCH better about modifying a Kobalt than I would have modifying a beautiful vintage plane
The chip breaker is steel plated with copper and then plated with chrome. They do this because the chrome does not stick to the steel but does stick to copper and copper sticks very well to steel.
Thanks for the info, that's actually really interesting to know!
Great explanation on how to sharpen the scrub blade. - Chris
Thanks Chris! Do you already have a scrub plane or are you looking to convert one?
@@Craftswright I have an old Stanley #5 that I've done the 6" camber on, but have had difficulty keeping the blade sharp. I'll probably open the mouth up wider as well. It was already worn and wider than usual, but would benefit from widening some more.
Go green!
Noted!
Quick question: why did you choose to flatten the sole with sandpaper rather than your diamond sharpening plates? I'm just trying to figure out if there was a reason so that if I take this route, I'd have to purchase something else for the shop - which then has to be stored - or if I can use my existing sharpening stone system?
Hey Sandy,
I opted for that route because I could start with a very rough grit (like 40 or 60 grit sandpaper) to get the bulk of the waste removed before moving on to finer grits.
The other reason is surface area. My diamond stones just aren’t long enough to get a full stroke on the sole and maintain contact across the entire sole. Without this, you run the risk of introducing a curve to the sole. It can be done with plates, you would just need to be patient and careful.
On the other hand, I can’t imagine a scenario where you wouldn’t be happy buying a piece of float glass (one of the cheapest and most flat surfaces you can get) and some sandpaper. They’re more useful than you might imagine.
Let me know if you have any more questions, I’m happy to answer them!
Great vid brother
Appreciate it my friend!
Did this with a Harbour Freight 33 Windsor. All I got is tear out, though the edge is about 31deg and the thing just tears out fir and pine. Any ideas please?
same it sucked, even tho scruby nubs recommended it as a scrub plane. I purchased a number 6 stanley from home depot with the plastic handles and made that into my scrub fore plane. The 33 windsor is just to light and small for prepping wood for a smoothing plane.
@@swiftxrapid919 I fixed my plight after some more research and persistence. Stumpy Nubs was correct - its a good scrub platform. For me, I had to adjust my frog. I flattened the frog to improve contact with the iron. Then, adjusted the frogs position properly for the task at hand. Suddenly.......... beautiful work.
I'm impressed that the blade held an edge. I've made a number of "cheap" tool purchases thinking I could tinker them into good working order. Not always, but most of the time I find some fundamental issue (like edge steel) that make the cheap tool unrecoverable. I'll have to give Kobalt another look. Thanks for putting in the time.
Green
Fantastic job, dude! Really nice! 😃
I still have no planes... Soon enough I'm going to have to buy some. 😬
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Oh man, if you haven't bought any yet, DO IT. There's something so satisfying about a well set up plane taking silky smooth shavings.... it's life changing! You too my friend :)
@@Craftswright Thanks! 😊
Yeah, I'm just starting with woodworking. But I already love it! 😊
You’re in for a ride brother, it’s addicting lol
👍👍‼️