The traditional superlatives are wholly inadequate for your project. Several years ago, a colleague built me a Cessna 172 panel frame to plug my Saitek stuff (everything Saitek sold + 6 dials). Needless to add I remain forever grateful to my colleague for helping me cross the chasm since I never did any woodworking after high school lessons and metalworking after college lessons. You have done excellent work here with an eye on the budget. I sincerely hope that others can build their own gear with your guidance. Thanks for contributing to the Flightsim community because it sure can get a boost from your ideas/concepts. Best wishes & kind regards.
Excellent mechanical engineering, Vince! Great job on balancing form, function and affordability. I'm a squadron commander in the Civil Air Patrol, and our Cadets would absolutely love the challenge of making their own flight sim controls!
Top notch build! Many thanks for showing how the push-pull mechanism works! I'm working on my yoke design at the moment, but pushrod throttles are likely going to be a future project for me. You've just explained away a lot of the doubts I had about those things that I could never figure out from flight sims.
Thank you so much! It took me about 2 weeks to find a picture on like page 10 of google images that had the internal notch pictured and it was a eureka moment for sure!!! Hopefully I saved you some time!
Absolutely brilliant! I have been planning on how I'm going to build my own cockpit for MSFS2020 (New PC ordered today!) and I was absolutely stumped how to do an accurate representation of the Vernier Style Throttle Control and mixture levers. Now I know! Fantastic work! Keep it up!
i tried making this, tip: if you want the button for each knob to have a certain length, you have to drill an oblong hole for the ball bearing; having a small circular hole would only make the buttons have shorter length to press.
Vince, very nice project! I'd like to build it, have some experience in 3D-printing. How did you print the 'sheath' parts? They look difficult to print... which sides down on the printing bed?
This build is phenomenal! I can't wait to build my own, safe to say you took some money off Honeycomb today, I have been waiting for their throttle quadrant to come out, but as I am only just getting into flight sim, I am for sure following your build first! Until now I have been using my sim racing button box for throttle/mixture lol. Are you planning on making other build projects?! This format is great, I honestly would love to see more!
Thank you so much for the kind words! I currently only have this and the Cadet Yoke published (go check that out too!) but I'm almost finished my 3rd module, which should be published hopefully sometime this week!
Awesome! Thank you for all the time you put into this. I'm working in building a Cassena 172 cockpit, I'm also planning to get the certificate for private pilot, I have a question, What type of 3D printer you used? I'm planning to print the printable items. Congratulations in your projects and Thanks for the inspiration.
This is an amazing job!! Thanks you very much for your work. I only have a question, the two rods with button (the mix and propeller), if i pull those back, they will fall out? I can't understand which thing keep those in place, i mean, there's a spring, why they don't pull apart? Thanks so much again!
They will not fall out! The ball bearing holds the button in place (the spring is used to pull the ball into position) and the end cap acts as an end stop for the mechanism. Hopefully, this answers your question!
Have you previously said anything about the printer you use? I’ve watched all the other videos but don’t think I’ve seen anything about it. TIA! Love them all. What an amazing design and help to the community. I’m now getting ready to learn coding with my son!
Even though im not very into simulators i find them fun, i mostly like building the controllers, haha. Thanks for making this, very inspiring :) Would be cool if there was an opensource flightsim controller project. Thanks for the inspiration and new ideas man. Also, you did great with the whole video tutorial thing :D
Hey Vince is there any way you could do a more in depth video of how you soldered the board? I slowed down that portion of the video to see if I could catch everything and it didn't help. Sorry for any inconvenience, soldering micro boards or anything else for that matter is not my strong suit as of yet anyway. Thanks again and can't wait to see the next build.
Hello! So I purposely didn't include that part just because I could make a whole video about solding and hooking up connectors! If you go to the Arduino build page, there is a complete pinout showing you exactly where each write needs to go. If you aren't super comfortable working with the JST connectors, I recommend soldering straight to the Arduino!
Friendly tip: if your m3 screws you're using to hold the linear potentiometers are slightly longer than they need to be and you tighten them all the way it's gonna be a long evening, or in my case two long evenings...
Not sure of the exact size, but they are about 50mmx10mmx1.5mm for the pedals and 30mmx7.5mmx1.5mm for the centering mechanism. I would say this is not a strong return so you may want to consider stronger if necessary!
@@VincePrints Wow! Thank you for the response! I didn't realize that you 3D printed some of the parts. I don't have access to a 3D printer... do you sell 3D printed parts? If not, do you know who does? Thanks in advance.
@@michaelkang215 unfortunately no, but there are many retailers you should be able to order from, if you wanted to get into the hobby a good beginner recommendation would be the ender 3 or the new bamboo labs printer
Super cool! Anybody can guide me where to buy the plastic handles (3D print) ? Is there file we can download and send to someone online to print it for us ? Thank you !
@@VincePrints Makes sense now. I didn't catch that the prop and mixture sheathes' ID were actually rifled. I started with throttle sheath prints, that twice made it all the way to the stepped down threads before going haywire, and was going to use those whiffs as prop/mixture. Was having as much difficulty wrapping my brain around the smooth inner surface producing linear motion as I was why the print wasn't working. I'm completely new to printing; this is my very first build(on my son's printer from Santa!)
The button matrix does not use GND or VCC. It uses the logic voltage between the two pins to register the button press. Use the wiring diagram on the Arduino build page for support!
Thanks for doing this! The project has been a true learning experience! My apologies if it is somewhere and I've overlooked it, but did you have any 3D printing tips you ran into? PLA vs PETG, raft the inner tubes, best orientation for knob/sheath prints, etc.?
The only noteable print suggestion would be to print the sheaths vertical with a brim to preserve the threading tolerance. I printed everything in PETG but any filament type should be fine as long as your printer is within +/- 0.5mm. I believe the knobs have supports under each of the overhang holes as well.
So I found the correct joystick library to download and install in the readme on create-arduino page! Now each slider pot (88mm 10k linear set from the amazon link, checked 10k ohm and linear with a multimeter) is only showing about 25% of the full range. Is the only solution to use the windows joy dot cpi calibration to get them to work over the full range in MSFS 2020? Or am I doing something wrong? Should I tweak values in the sketch to get Windows to see these working over the expected full range? Seems weird. But overall - thanks! This is amazing and perfect!
The calibration in windows is necessary to have the throttle working appropriately. This is pretty general practice even for actual game controllers just to ensure they are set up and working in their full ranges--hopefully this isn't too much of an issue! Thanks
@@VincePrints Vince, thanks very much! It's easy enough to do, I was just a little surprised that we'd be expanding the range that much, but happy to do it to avoid spending $$$ on a commercial setup!
I am 100% going to use this as a guide for building my own push/pull setup. I’d image with the code there shouldn’t be a problem with it working on Xplane11 as well, right? Thanks for publishing this awesome setup!
Hello Steve, I couldn't find the exact serial number since they were posted on Amazon but if you go to the Arduino create link, a complete BOM with Amazon links is in the "ReadMe". They are 88mm 10K Linear Potentiometers. Hope this helps, Vince
'JOYSTICK_DEFAULT_REPORT_ID' was not declared in this scope Can some help me I have it built and cannot get the code to work. I have all the needed libraries. I am new to coding so sorry if its simple.
@@VincePrints so I finally got it to work last night I had multiple joystick libraries so I think IDE was confused. Thanks for the reply. Can't wait to finish my design I will share it on thingiverse
can i use toggle switches instead of pushbuttons so if the switch is ON the gear is out and if its OFF the gear is up or do i have to change any thing?
Hey I am working on creating one. I wired it up and and all the buttons work but the potentiometers are bouncing all over the place. Any idea on what could be the issue? (I used the same parts as linked in the readme)
@@HammerGarrett windows may be reading the values for two of the pots as a single value. I'm having trouble trying to replicate the error on my end unfortunately
@@HammerGarrett could be that! Sometimes they are just low quality or have little pieces of dust or dirt that can affect their performance. Glad everything is working!
Have built this and love it. Works great in X-Plane but the throttle will not work properly in MSFS 2020. It is either 0 or 100% not linear at all. Frustrating. Working on the CadetRadio project atm!
This is brilliant, thank you! Exactly what I was looking for for my 182 central console build - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4753075. Some notes from my experience printing this. My anticipation was she sheath would be the biggest challenge, but it came out perfectly on the first attempt. The only issue is the inner thread came out spiky (and I could even see that in Cura's preview), and occasionally the ball skips, but still works great. I had to fiddle with the print settings to print the end caps (eventually had to minimize the supports). Also after cooling below certain temperature they would crack whenever I attempted to insert a straw. My solution to that was heating up the end caps slightly with a hair drier before assembly. Also had to hammer in the straws into the knobs, so maybe my straws were slightly larger diameter. And I used PLA, not PETG, that may have also played a role. So happy I ran across this build, as I wasn't ready to shell out $80 a piece for the real verniers www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/a820.php
Thanks so much for sharing your experience! Glad you were able to create some workarounds to reach your desired result--it can be tricky (especially with 3d printing) to create something that fulfills the tolerances of printers all over the world haha Send over your finished cockpit when you have everything set up!
Hi, I have watched all of your videos and admire your design ability. BUT your video will be better for less able people if you explain how the thing you have made actually works. I am an engineer and can work it out from the pictures you show but many will not and this will prevent them from making it again.
Hello Richard, As you have noticed, I have left a lot out about how each of the devices physically works and that is mostly in an effort to keep the time of each video down. If you read the description, you can find the Arduino project files which include copious amounts of build documentation and wiring diagrams. The purpose of these videos is really to just demonstrate the models and function because these videos take hours for me to produce and are completely unrelated to my full-time profession (I spend most of my free time making these and release them for free). It would be difficult for me to go off on a tangent, like how linear potentiometers are able to track motion through resistance, and still keep my videos "bite size". However, thank you for your feedback and I will take this into consideration for my next project which should be coming in the next month or so! Cheers
The traditional superlatives are wholly inadequate for your project. Several years ago, a colleague built me a Cessna 172 panel frame to plug my Saitek stuff (everything Saitek sold + 6 dials). Needless to add I remain forever grateful to my colleague for helping me cross the chasm since I never did any woodworking after high school lessons and metalworking after college lessons.
You have done excellent work here with an eye on the budget. I sincerely hope that others can build their own gear with your guidance. Thanks for contributing to the Flightsim community because it sure can get a boost from your ideas/concepts. Best wishes & kind regards.
Excellent mechanical engineering, Vince! Great job on balancing form, function and affordability. I'm a squadron commander in the Civil Air Patrol, and our Cadets would absolutely love the challenge of making their own flight sim controls!
Wow I was looking for a Cessna throttle quadrant!!! You got the adjustment mechanism in there too!!! Absolutely brilliant!!!
Just finished building the standalone Mixture control. Thanks for your work!
By far the best I've seen sir !! Vernier control included is awesome !!
Thanks so much!
Top notch build!
Many thanks for showing how the push-pull mechanism works! I'm working on my yoke design at the moment, but pushrod throttles are likely going to be a future project for me. You've just explained away a lot of the doubts I had about those things that I could never figure out from flight sims.
Thank you so much! It took me about 2 weeks to find a picture on like page 10 of google images that had the internal notch pictured and it was a eureka moment for sure!!! Hopefully I saved you some time!
Love it. Half way done. Major parts working very smootly. Made some modification with base. You earned my thanks and donation. :)
I was trying to work out how you had push pull flaps. The realised vertical slide. Def copying that thanks for sharing.
Jeess this is on another level mate! Keep going with your projects and I'll keep following!
Absolutely brilliant! I have been planning on how I'm going to build my own cockpit for MSFS2020 (New PC ordered today!) and I was absolutely stumped how to do an accurate representation of the Vernier Style Throttle Control and mixture levers. Now I know! Fantastic work! Keep it up!
Glad I could help! If you need radios, I just posted a video with files for building that as well. Happy building!
i tried making this, tip: if you want the button for each knob to have a certain length, you have to drill an oblong hole for the ball bearing; having a small circular hole would only make the buttons have shorter length to press.
Thank you for putting this together. Simple, clean design.
Impressive build, great detail on the throttle and mixture with the push button too. Well done.
Excellent Video - So much clearer and straightforward than what people usually put up.
Thank you for all the time you put into this and your other builds. Can't wait to try building them myself!
No problem! I'm happy I could teach you something!
exactly what I was looking for. You sir have a new subscriber. Keep these videos coming.
Thanks for sharing your designs.
This is awesome and exactly what I want to achieve (along with a Trim Wheel) - now I just need a 3D Printer!!! Thanks for sharing all of your work.
Thanks so much!
Absolute awesome. Great build. Thanks for sharing! 👍
No problem 👍
this is incredible. looking forward to trying this out. thanks for sharing!
Great design Vince! And what a clean finish!
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed!
Great project and well explained. Thanks.
Vince, very nice project! I'd like to build it, have some experience in 3D-printing. How did you print the 'sheath' parts? They look difficult to print... which sides down on the printing bed?
This build is phenomenal! I can't wait to build my own, safe to say you took some money off Honeycomb today, I have been waiting for their throttle quadrant to come out, but as I am only just getting into flight sim, I am for sure following your build first! Until now I have been using my sim racing button box for throttle/mixture lol.
Are you planning on making other build projects?! This format is great, I honestly would love to see more!
Thank you so much for the kind words! I currently only have this and the Cadet Yoke published (go check that out too!) but I'm almost finished my 3rd module, which should be published hopefully sometime this week!
Vince,
What Holds the Push Button inside of the knob after you add the spring?
Awesome! Thank you for all the time you put into this. I'm working in building a Cassena 172 cockpit, I'm also planning to get the certificate for private pilot, I have a question, What type of 3D printer you used? I'm planning to print the printable items. Congratulations in your projects and Thanks for the inspiration.
I have a PRUSA MK3 and MINI that I used to print all of these. I highly recommend their printers, software, and support!
I've been looking for something like this! Real life saver.
Hoping your build goes smoothly!
This is an amazing job!! Thanks you very much for your work. I only have a question, the two rods with button (the mix and propeller), if i pull those back, they will fall out? I can't understand which thing keep those in place, i mean, there's a spring, why they don't pull apart?
Thanks so much again!
They will not fall out! The ball bearing holds the button in place (the spring is used to pull the ball into position) and the end cap acts as an end stop for the mechanism. Hopefully, this answers your question!
I built it and it works great!
Thanks Vince!
This is awesome!!!
Have you previously said anything about the printer you use? I’ve watched all the other videos but don’t think I’ve seen anything about it. TIA! Love them all. What an amazing design and help to the community. I’m now getting ready to learn coding with my son!
I use a combination of a PRUSA MK3 and PRUSA MINI to print everything! More printer specifics should be listed on the thingiverse page
@@VincePrints awesome thanks! Can’t wait to build this!
You're a star! I'll probably replace my clunky throttle and mixture setup with this design.
Even though im not very into simulators i find them fun, i mostly like building the controllers, haha. Thanks for making this, very inspiring :) Would be cool if there was an opensource flightsim controller project. Thanks for the inspiration and new ideas man. Also, you did great with the whole video tutorial thing :D
If you look on my channel, there are a few other open source peripherals including a yoke, radio, and pedals 🙂
Will show Joystick_ does not name a type How to deal with it?
Hey Vince is there any way you could do a more in depth video of how you soldered the board? I slowed down that portion of the video to see if I could catch everything and it didn't help. Sorry for any inconvenience, soldering micro boards or anything else for that matter is not my strong suit as of yet anyway. Thanks again and can't wait to see the next build.
Hello! So I purposely didn't include that part just because I could make a whole video about solding and hooking up connectors! If you go to the Arduino build page, there is a complete pinout showing you exactly where each write needs to go. If you aren't super comfortable working with the JST connectors, I recommend soldering straight to the Arduino!
Friendly tip: if your m3 screws you're using to hold the linear potentiometers are slightly longer than they need to be and you tighten them all the way it's gonna be a long evening, or in my case two long evenings...
Yikes....hoping this worked out!
@Vince_Prints thanks for sharing and demonstrating! Could you please specify the size and type of springs used?
Not sure of the exact size, but they are about 50mmx10mmx1.5mm for the pedals and 30mmx7.5mmx1.5mm for the centering mechanism. I would say this is not a strong return so you may want to consider stronger if necessary!
@@VincePrints thank you
what specific screws and nuts will i need for this?
Edit: 13 M3x8 screws, M3 washers, and 4 M3 nuts
How do you only have 500 subs you are a great youtuber
Thanks so much! I probably need more content, which will start later this year when I have more time!
Hi, this is an amazing project, thank you very much to share. Could you tell what size of the spring did you use? I can't find out
I don't remember unfortunately, the variety pack of springs I purchased should be linked on the BOM though--this may give a hint
Sorry!
I am new to this channel.
Wonderful video!
Where do I get the parts for the build? The knobs and the tubes and all.
Thank you.
If you navigate through the tabs at the top of the Arduino build page, you'll find everything you need.
@@VincePrints Wow! Thank you for the response!
I didn't realize that you 3D printed some of the parts. I don't have access to a 3D printer... do you sell 3D printed parts? If not, do you know who does?
Thanks in advance.
@@michaelkang215 unfortunately no, but there are many retailers you should be able to order from, if you wanted to get into the hobby a good beginner recommendation would be the ender 3 or the new bamboo labs printer
@@VincePrints Thank you for taking the time to answer. I will take a look at your recommendations.
Super cool! Anybody can guide me where to buy the plastic handles (3D print) ?
Is there file we can download and send to someone online to print it for us ?
Thank you !
You can find all of the build documentation in the description!
Shot in the dark here with an older video, but how does the fine control turning change the potentiometer position?
It pushes or pulls in a similar way to a ball screw, if you are familiar
@@VincePrints Makes sense now. I didn't catch that the prop and mixture sheathes' ID were actually rifled. I started with throttle sheath prints, that twice made it all the way to the stepped down threads before going haywire, and was going to use those whiffs as prop/mixture. Was having as much difficulty wrapping my brain around the smooth inner surface producing linear motion as I was why the print wasn't working. I'm completely new to printing; this is my very first build(on my son's printer from Santa!)
wow, nice job!
Hi, I really liked your project and I'm doing it but I have a question, in the part of the button matrix, where do I put the ground and the voltage?
The button matrix does not use GND or VCC. It uses the logic voltage between the two pins to register the button press. Use the wiring diagram on the Arduino build page for support!
Thanks for doing this! The project has been a true learning experience! My apologies if it is somewhere and I've overlooked it, but did you have any 3D printing tips you ran into? PLA vs PETG, raft the inner tubes, best orientation for knob/sheath prints, etc.?
The only noteable print suggestion would be to print the sheaths vertical with a brim to preserve the threading tolerance. I printed everything in PETG but any filament type should be fine as long as your printer is within +/- 0.5mm. I believe the knobs have supports under each of the overhang holes as well.
Welcome! Sir! Is it possible to add more axis?
If you are referring to the Arduino code, yes absolutely. Look into the Joystick library examples
Amazing!! thank you!!!
So I found the correct joystick library to download and install in the readme on create-arduino page! Now each slider pot (88mm 10k linear set from the amazon link, checked 10k ohm and linear with a multimeter) is only showing about 25% of the full range. Is the only solution to use the windows joy dot cpi calibration to get them to work over the full range in MSFS 2020? Or am I doing something wrong? Should I tweak values in the sketch to get Windows to see these working over the expected full range? Seems weird. But overall - thanks! This is amazing and perfect!
The calibration in windows is necessary to have the throttle working appropriately. This is pretty general practice even for actual game controllers just to ensure they are set up and working in their full ranges--hopefully this isn't too much of an issue! Thanks
@@VincePrints Vince, thanks very much! It's easy enough to do, I was just a little surprised that we'd be expanding the range that much, but happy to do it to avoid spending $$$ on a commercial setup!
I don't even play flight sims but I'll definitely use your build techniques!
Glad I could teach you something!
I am making it. Thanks a lot.
I am 100% going to use this as a guide for building my own push/pull setup. I’d image with the code there shouldn’t be a problem with it working on Xplane11 as well, right? Thanks for publishing this awesome setup!
Should be recognized as a USB game controller!
Hi. Which size (exact part brand & number best) & type of Linear Slide potentiometers are needed for this project? thanks.
Hello Steve,
I couldn't find the exact serial number since they were posted on Amazon but if you go to the Arduino create link, a complete BOM with Amazon links is in the "ReadMe". They are 88mm 10K Linear Potentiometers.
Hope this helps,
Vince
@@VincePrints Thanks! the 88 mm and 10k are the key details I needed.
'JOYSTICK_DEFAULT_REPORT_ID' was not declared in this scope
Can some help me I have it built and cannot get the code to work. I have all the needed libraries. I am new to coding so sorry if its simple.
Make sure you have the correct joystick library, a lot of users had this same error
@@VincePrints so I finally got it to work last night I had multiple joystick libraries so I think IDE was confused. Thanks for the reply. Can't wait to finish my design I will share it on thingiverse
@@homeworxchannel4120 Add it to the remix tab if possible!
can i use toggle switches instead of pushbuttons so if the switch is ON the gear is out and if its OFF the gear is up or do i have to change any thing?
You will need to use diodes to prevent ghosting
@@VincePrints already figured something out but thx
would you be able to make a design for twin engine aircraft?
Like a throttle quadrant? A reference image would be helpful if you have one
@@VincePrints yeah a dual engine throttle quadrant, something like the TQ6+
Hey I am working on creating one. I wired it up and and all the buttons work but the potentiometers are bouncing all over the place. Any idea on what could be the issue? (I used the same parts as linked in the readme)
Have you calibrated in windows?
@@VincePrints yeah its continuing to bounce all over the place. I double checked there was steady voltage to the potentiometers.
@@HammerGarrett windows may be reading the values for two of the pots as a single value. I'm having trouble trying to replicate the error on my end unfortunately
@@VincePrints I replace the pots and it's all good now. I think I cooked one of them too much while soldering
@@HammerGarrett could be that! Sometimes they are just low quality or have little pieces of dust or dirt that can affect their performance. Glad everything is working!
Welcome! Sir! What arduino board do you use?
This project uses an Arduino Pro Micro, but really any Leonardo board will work. You can find more information on the Arduino build page!
"Joystick doesn't name a type" how to fix this in Arduino IDE sketch?
Do you have the joystick library installed?
I had this error before on a different project I was using the wrong joystick library
@@kingbee133 which one did you use? I am having the same issue
Why petg filament and not pla ?
Just what I had 🤷♂️ PLA will work
Have built this and love it. Works great in X-Plane but the throttle will not work properly in MSFS 2020. It is either 0 or 100% not linear at all. Frustrating. Working on the CadetRadio project atm!
Thanks so much!
it will be work with xbox series x?
I'm not sure unfortunately!
this is great! thanks for sharing
How much did this cost you to make?
Somewhere between $20-$30 but I had things like the M3 screws on hand
Nice job!
Thanks
love it
Thank you!
Good job Dude. It would be much better If you change name of your Leonardo Boards (7:21).
The last time I researched this, there was something in licensing that stopped this from being possible. Do you have a solution or work-around?
@@VincePrints can you try this. This is work good.
@@technicahmett Did you post a link or something? I'm afraid I can't see anything
@@VincePrints oo sory I think I shared the link. Asa I Will share.
On this video th-cam.com/video/hoCOq9Ngp44/w-d-xo.html
I'm waiting for trimmer prototype :D
This is brilliant, thank you! Exactly what I was looking for for my 182 central console build - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4753075.
Some notes from my experience printing this. My anticipation was she sheath would be the biggest challenge, but it came out perfectly on the first attempt. The only issue is the inner thread came out spiky (and I could even see that in Cura's preview), and occasionally the ball skips, but still works great. I had to fiddle with the print settings to print the end caps (eventually had to minimize the supports). Also after cooling below certain temperature they would crack whenever I attempted to insert a straw. My solution to that was heating up the end caps slightly with a hair drier before assembly. Also had to hammer in the straws into the knobs, so maybe my straws were slightly larger diameter. And I used PLA, not PETG, that may have also played a role.
So happy I ran across this build, as I wasn't ready to shell out $80 a piece for the real verniers www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/a820.php
Thanks so much for sharing your experience! Glad you were able to create some workarounds to reach your desired result--it can be tricky (especially with 3d printing) to create something that fulfills the tolerances of printers all over the world haha Send over your finished cockpit when you have everything set up!
Good
Hi, I have watched all of your videos and admire your design ability. BUT your video will be better for less able people if you explain how the thing you have made actually works. I am an engineer and can work it out from the pictures you show but many will not and this will prevent them from making it again.
Hello Richard,
As you have noticed, I have left a lot out about how each of the devices physically works and that is mostly in an effort to keep the time of each video down. If you read the description, you can find the Arduino project files which include copious amounts of build documentation and wiring diagrams. The purpose of these videos is really to just demonstrate the models and function because these videos take hours for me to produce and are completely unrelated to my full-time profession (I spend most of my free time making these and release them for free). It would be difficult for me to go off on a tangent, like how linear potentiometers are able to track motion through resistance, and still keep my videos "bite size". However, thank you for your feedback and I will take this into consideration for my next project which should be coming in the next month or so!
Cheers