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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 มิ.ย. 2024
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In this episode of Design for Mass Production 3D Printing, we explore 3D printed wall hooks!
Ever been frustrated by how fragile store-bought Command Strip wall hooks can be? We delve into the engineering behind their design, and more importantly, how we can create custom designs optimized for 3D printing. We discuss the benefits of Mass Production 3D Printing and how you can leverage these benefits to design hooks that are not just stronger but also aesthetically pleasing. Whether you're in need of a wall hook or just curious about design for 3d printing, this video promises insights and solutions. Say goodbye to frail hooks and hello to the future of home accessories!
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00:00 Why Are Command Strip Wall Hooks So Frail?
01:00 Standard Wall Hook Design
02:04 Vertical Wall Hook Design
03:09 Triangular Wall Hook Design
04:14 Hinged Wall Hook Design
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I love the conversational style as we're talked through the design process, with nonisotropic physical properties evaluated relative to print orientation, and a sequence of design iterations presented to see how 3D printed prototypes evolve. I get enough of that in my own designs but it's greatly beneficial to see other people's iterative design evolution.
I'd add a final design iteration. Alter the final iteration shown by replacing the thin hook with a beefy rectangular tab so it's also printed flat for best strength in this application but with more material so it's much stronger, and modify the print in place hinge with a 45 degree back stop so the tab opens to form a 45 degree hanger similar to the earlier single piece design, but with two major improvements - the tab is stronger because the filament strands are straight from end to end, and the wall mounted hangar can be closed flat when not in use.
Apparently you can buy command strips in bulk. About 11 cents each at retail prices on everyone's least favorite global superstore. This is a pretty good starting off point of an idea. You could do pipes, tree branches, a finger... Lots of possibilities here. Thanks!
Enjoy
Wow, great to know. So the ones in stores are like 50x markup for some garbage injection molded plastic...
@@daliasprints9798 Well, they do work for the most part, and something they mention on this channel all the time is that injection molding comes with large up front costs. They are also the name you thing of when you think of getting a couple of plastic hooks from the store. Might have something to do with the price point.
At first, I didn’t think much of this channel. It popped up a few times and I mostly ignored it, then a few of these videos caught my attention and now I’m hooked.... forgive my puns.
Lol. Thanks for watching
Thank you! Love that you share the design process as well. Haven't yet done my first, but am getting closer. :)
Ive been printing hooks for years now! One of my favorite adaptable bases :)
I'd love to see a version of this for peg-hooks. I needs some custom hooks for my gloves and welding gear, but it's hard to gauge the important part for my wall.
you did it again good job.
side question. how often are you told you look like Mac from It's always sunny in Philadelphia?
Thanks. Gabe gets the Mac comparison about every other video
Cool! Thanks for addressing the fact that adhesives don't necessarily stick well to 3d printed surfaces! I'm constantly having to glue adhesive vinyl stickers down to puzzle parts because of this. I don't know if there's a fix, but glue is the best idea I've had thus far.
Edit: apparently command strips don't have this issue, see responses.
That is not true of all vigin 3D Prints. We textured several of the hooks that causes adhesion problems at the start. But command strips work fine on general 3D Printed side surfaces. This is demonstrated in our handles video.
@@slant3d I found command strips stick well to textured plate surface prints as well as the smooth plate, it's just a matter of really pressing the strip onto the back and getting good contact with as much plastic as possible.
@@slant3d Interesting. I guess the command strips have more adhesive than the vinyl stickers I normally use. I guess that makes sense since they're supposed to be load bearing. Thanks for the info!
@@jabberwocktechnologies it's most likely a combination of a stronger adhesive as well as the compressible foam layer between the part and the wall side that allows the command strip to fully adhere to a slightly uneven surface
I can see replacing the hook on that last model, with a 'T' which I think would give you better capabilities for holding cords, and even hangars. (At some point I can see redesigning the standard plastic hangar as well, but I expect that's going to be a 'some asembly required' product.
also can you touch on what kind of material is best for these mounting applications? ive heard PLA sags over time so id love to hear your input as far as materials go.
The "sag" (material creep) doesn't really matter much unless you have specific dimensional requirements. PET (not PETG, but PETG would at least fare better than PLA) or ABS or ASA would avoid it. Nylon is even worse.
@@daliasprints9798 cool and thanks for the reply. I hear mixed things about nylon. What sort of applications is nylon actually useful for?
@@Bdickey That's a good question and I'm not sure. Maybe things where you have high temperatures but not forces that will cause creep? I tried nylon for a storm door closer bracket I had to replace after first and second try in PLA broke, and it just got horribly mangled and eventually popped off the snap fit door jamb side bracket. Replaced it with PET and never had another problem.
Really a matter of final application. For parts like these PLA is fine. But would not always be the material we choose for mass production of like 100,000 of these parts. Primarily due to raw material cost.
@@BdickeyAll nylon filaments that I've seen are 'Natural' (not clear, milky white) which at first sounds like a negative, but it has the advantage that once it's been printed, you can use fabric dies like Rit(tm) or others, to color it any color you can find or blend. So if you're looking for that perfect color for your step mom's gift, you can concoct it. Otherwise it's potentially useful for wearables in the variety of belt pouches for phones, knives, or any place that you might otherwise use fused sheet nylon, perhaps knife scales, or the like.
At least one variety is often used to do a pull clean of a print nozzle, as it will stretch and deform instead of breaking, and self release from the inside of the nozzle, taking anything that might be causing interference/blocking. I wouldn't try this on any of the nozzles that split and merge the filament though. Not going to tell anyone else what to do, just don't think it's a good idea.
I understand that some people are having good luck with it as a carrier for stuff like carbon fiber. If you're going to do that though, I'd suggest picking up diamondback nozzles in your preferred nozzle size for any printer you're going to do t hat with. (as well as spare boden tube stock if your printer makes use of that. It's rather abrasive.)
Do you find it useful to design a recess into your prints that work with command strips? I had an idea to do it with but I'm not sure if the spongey nature of the command strips would make that difficult to select the recess depth, or if its worth the design time at all.
A recess is very useful for adhesive strips you don't want to remove. The primary adhesive failure mode is peeling, and having the exposed edge makes it much easier to peel off the strip. However, if the adhesive strip surface is printed on the bed (a smooth glass bed will result in a smooth part with great adhesion), you won't be able to recess the adhesive contact area without adding support material which is added post processing (double plus bad for print farms) and the surface supported while printing will no longer be glass smooth so the adhesive won't stick nearly as well. Overall, you'd be much better served by having a flat back for the adhesive strip that's printed on a smooth glass print bed.
While it can’t be done in one shot it is possible to injection mold moving parts made of the same material. Easiest would probably be urethane but PVC is done all the time.
Do a hang test to back up the ideas
in one of your videos ( i forget which one) you mentioned that you chamfer the edges of the bottom surface to the bed? im trying to remember correctly.
Correct. We actually say in most design videos. Including this one
@@slant3d is it only to combat elephants foot? how small are you making the chamfers?
@@olmosbananasMost people do it to help combat elephants foot or first layer expansion. It has other advantages as well, including having a place to slip a finger nail under the edge of the part when picking it up if the rest of the part doesn't give you a good way to handle it. Or if you make the mistake of sealing the pull end of the Command Strip under your print so you can't reach it, it helps get the dental floss you then use to cut up the command strip to separate the part from the wall.
There are other reasons as well. A chamfered edge is actually stronger than a 90 degree edge on pretty much any edge. It feels better when handling than raw edges, though a fillet works well for that part, it doesn't work well as the edge of the part on the bed, where the range of angles may require support that a 45 degree chamfer does not.(usually)
I'm pretty sure these wall hooks are designed to fail before the adhesive itself fails. It's definitely preferable to have the hook break off rather than a piece of your wall, so that's probably something to consider before designing a 'stronger' hook
Cool video but PLEASE PLEASE turn off the elevator music! No music.
Still can't get why printing the second (green) one verticaly and not on side as the first one. You get a much more stronger hook
Surface uniformity
@@slant3d what about a quick sanding on both side? I mean toughness over aesthetics
Printing the last hook on its back and enabling ironing for the top layer would give the most optimal finish without adding much time.
Not really. The issue is not the really to the top. It is the underside of the hook that looks distorted when it "opened" Ironing would not really help that directly on surface finish.
ironing adds lots of time tho; extra slow layer multiplied for every piece.
While I understand the "wow" factor of "Print in place" assemblies, I am not a fan of those for the simple reason that if /anything/ of it breaks, you have an iPhone situation: one small part is broken but you gotta replace the entire damn thing.
And I think we already produce enough plastic trash /without/ going ballistic with "print in place" stuff.
But then again, PLA is way more likely getting recycled than the parts in an iPhone.
I think every hooks in this video are extremely ugly and don't seem to be better cost to value perspective.
If you want ateong hooks, I recommend buying good looking metal ones in arround 30 sec of searching i found 200 simple metal hooks for 12CA$ with shipping and 100 metal hooks that comes with 2 screws each that are almost like your plastic hook for 27CA$ including shipping.
Tough as always the retractable hook is unique to 3D printing for the fact that it comes with no more assembly than the other hooks
"I think every hooks in this video are extremely ugly..." I do agree, most of these videos have similar chunky demonstrations. But, that's the thing, they aren't products but rather demonstrations of ideas. They aren't meant for people that want to download and print a design. They are expressing concepts that people can use in their own designs. And, probably designs that his company will hopefully print by the thousand.
I suppose there are places where an industrial chunky look would fit, but that's beside the point. More likely, it's some wildly ornamental thing that's impossible to make any other way... that just happens to incorporate the structural concepts shown.
The lesson is that 3D printing can go big and still not use a lot of material. There can be a lot of structural advantages to going big. But, that 'big' doesn't have to be a rectangular block that took 45 seconds in CAD. That triangular "hook" could be a SciFi creature's beak some artist spent weeks sculpting... and it would be a whole lot better if said artist actually watched these videos and didn't do some stupid little thing that makes it impossible to print.
I very much get the sense these videos are direct and frustrated responses to said artistic designs.
@@4Fixerdave I agree with you but recently Slant 3d are posting a lot of videos like this one with products that look horrible, the point of mass production videos like he explained was to compare 3d printed products with injection molding, not simply get an idea out in the wild. I would have liked to either have a lot of simple desing like this one in one video of the same lenght or one elaborate idea in one video.
It's just my feeling but I feel like they are pumping a lot of videos that could be of better quality
What machine are you printing on? the print quality is so bad.
There is a texture applied to the parts. In this case it is a popcorn-y pattern
I was thinking about the same thing but I suppose the render of the texture is better in real life@@slant3d
@@slant3d Why? I call bs