Update I got the new Deraileur installed and I even managed to tune / index the gears for the first time. Appreciate your videos again basically turned me into a full on bike mechanic 😂
Turn it until the pin is about half way out compared to the with between the chain links. Give it a try and see it it snaps out (probably won't on first attempt). Insert the chain breaker and move it out a few more mm. Try again to get it to snap apart. Repeat just going a few mm at a time. I know this takes time, but if you go to far, the chain will come appart and can't be snapped back together. Patience is your best allie.
The newer Park Tool does not have an inner shelf to loosen a stiff link. If you're using a master link when you replace the chain, you won't need a loosening shelf. If you're not using a master link, you can still deal with a stiff link as follows: th-cam.com/video/hklVw3KErKw/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Sorry for my bad English but it seems that you do not understand me. You have floating shelf on your park tool, so if im not wrong if you move it to the pin (tool pin) and fix it there, then you do not need the inner shelf since your the only one shelf is movable and can become both inner our outer shelf
@@Temporalplace I do understand that communication via the internet can be difficult. The moveable shelf is similar to the shelf closest to the end on chain tools of other types. It's moveable so it will hold the chain in place. You can not use it as a loosening shelf. It does not have that dual purpose. I hope that's clear. If not, maybe some of your friends can help out here.
I like the Lezine chain breaker but I also use Park Tool as well. Specifically the 3.3 it does the job with ease there's no issues with it. I do find the wood handle of the Lezine one a bit more comfortable to hold than the metal used by Park Tool. Thank you for the video and keep on riding!!!
If you use a chain checker tool and replace your chain regularly, you shouldn’t really need to use a chain breaker tool ? Especially if you chain has a master link, all you require for the job of replacing a chain is a master link pliers ?
You have a point. However, to save time and not have to struggle with removing the master link, some find it quicker to just break the chain. When restoring older bicycles, the chain breaker becomes a necessity. Thanks for your comment and safe cycling, Tony
I received a CT3.3 yesterday and today it is paperweight! the push pin bent on my second use and I didn't know I needed a special tool to service it before this happened~
I have been using the CT3.3 since it came out. I've not broken a pin, mainly, because I take great care to line up the pin with the rivet before I start removal. With that said, I do have a spare, I do have an extra pin (cost about $8). The tool needed for removal is a 7 mm box wrench (or open end wrench - about $5). Because I do a lot of bike work, I have a set of box/open end wrenches from 6mm up to 18mm which I use on everything from pedals, hubs, headsets and more. One can pick up a set for about $25 and add the smaller wrenches individually. Anyway, don't give up. Get yourself an extra pin (available on Amazon) and a 7 mm box wrench (also from Amazon). Over the years, they will pay for themselves. I have great confidence that you can do the work you need on your bike with a little patience and practice. Regards, Tony
A great shop tool if you're willing to spend up ward of $63. The chain rests in a "link pocket" insuring that the chain rests properly in the tool. It also can be used to "peen the rivet" on Campagnolo chains. If you're doing a lot of bike shop work, this may be the tool for you. Here's a short video form Park Tools: th-cam.com/video/a-l_L6GTgnw/w-d-xo.html Regards, Tony
@@dpstrial After thinking about this more, I personally would go with the Park CT3.3. Less money and works just as well, if not better. If you're dealing with Campagnolo, go with the Campy tool to "peen the rivet." Tony
Available through Amazon: SRAM/Shimano/KMC www.amazon.com/KMC-Missing-Link-11-Speed-Titanium/dp/B07PNLV2K7/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=kmc+master+links&qid=1579204580&sr=8-2 Be sure to get the correct speed and the ones specified for the chain manufacturer. Note: that KMC now makes re-usable master links, although I would not use a re-usable link more then 2 or 3 times to remove the chain for cleaning and ALWAYS use a new master link when replacing a chain. There is also a master link for Campagnolo chains: www.amazon.com/YBN-Speed-Master-Camopagnolo-Compatible/dp/B07T14J3VN/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=master+links+for+campagnolo+chain&qid=1579204900&sr=8-12 With that said, some claim there is a danger of chain failure if a master link is used with a Campy chain instead of "peening" the rivet. While others claim they've had no problems with using an 11 speed or 12 speed master link compatible with a campagnolo chain. Anyone else have any experience in this area?
I just changed the chain recently and the cradle guide snapped off. It was one of the cheapo tools but given I only chnage the chain infrequently, I will stick with the cheapo tool, about 4 bucks on ebay.
You can stick with the "cheapo" tools but with the savings from doing the work yourself will allow you to invest in a better tool. My moto is "the right tool for the right job." You're less likely to damage the chain or other component with a good tool. But that's just my opinion and the choice is yours. Safe cycling and regards, Tony
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and tips for chain maintenance!!
You're Welcome. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Getting ready to change my first deraileur today and I needed to know the proper way to use my chain tool. Thanks 😊
Update I got the new Deraileur installed and I even managed to tune / index the gears for the first time. Appreciate your videos again basically turned me into a full on bike mechanic 😂
Congrads on the repair. On your way to being a full and competent mechanic. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
How many turns of the breaker tool handle do you do so you can unhook your chain without the roller pin coming out?
Turn it until the pin is about half way out compared to the with between the chain links. Give it a try and see it it snaps out (probably won't on first attempt). Insert the chain breaker and move it out a few more mm. Try again to get it to snap apart. Repeat just going a few mm at a time. I know this takes time, but if you go to far, the chain will come appart and can't be snapped back together. Patience is your best allie.
3:17 Has't it floating shelf to losen stiff link ? Just move it closer to pin and fix it there, and you can losen the link, no ?
The newer Park Tool does not have an inner shelf to loosen a stiff link. If you're using a master link when you replace the chain, you won't need a loosening shelf. If you're not using a master link, you can still deal with a stiff link as follows:
th-cam.com/video/hklVw3KErKw/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Sorry for my bad English but it seems that you do not understand me. You have floating shelf on your park tool, so if im not wrong if you move it to the pin (tool pin) and fix it there, then you do not need the inner shelf since your the only one shelf is movable and can become both inner our outer shelf
@@Temporalplace I do understand that communication via the internet can be difficult. The moveable shelf is similar to the shelf closest to the end on chain tools of other types. It's moveable so it will hold the chain in place. You can not use it as a loosening shelf. It does not have that dual purpose. I hope that's clear. If not, maybe some of your friends can help out here.
I like the Lezine chain breaker but I also use Park Tool as well. Specifically the 3.3 it does the job with ease there's no issues with it. I do find the wood handle of the Lezine one a bit more comfortable to hold than the metal used by Park Tool. Thank you for the video and keep on riding!!!
Thanks for the info on the Lezine chain breaker. Regards, Tony
Good stuff, Tony! 👍🏼👍🏼
Glad it helped. Regards, Tony
If you use a chain checker tool and replace your chain regularly, you shouldn’t really need to use a chain breaker tool ? Especially if you chain has a master link, all you require for the job of replacing a chain is a master link pliers ?
You have a point. However, to save time and not have to struggle with removing the master link, some find it quicker to just break the chain. When restoring older bicycles, the chain breaker becomes a necessity. Thanks for your comment and safe cycling, Tony
I received a CT3.3 yesterday and today it is paperweight! the push pin bent on my second use and I didn't know I needed a special tool to service it before this happened~
I have been using the CT3.3 since it came out. I've not broken a pin, mainly, because I take great care to line up the pin with the rivet before I start removal. With that said, I do have a spare, I do have an extra pin (cost about $8). The tool needed for removal is a 7 mm box wrench (or open end wrench - about $5). Because I do a lot of bike work, I have a set of box/open end wrenches from 6mm up to 18mm which I use on everything from pedals, hubs, headsets and more. One can pick up a set for about $25 and add the smaller wrenches individually. Anyway, don't give up. Get yourself an extra pin (available on Amazon) and a 7 mm box wrench (also from Amazon). Over the years, they will pay for themselves. I have great confidence that you can do the work you need on your bike with a little patience and practice. Regards, Tony
What do you think of the really heavy-duty Park Tool CT-4.3? Thank you.
A great shop tool if you're willing to spend up ward of $63. The chain rests in a "link pocket" insuring that the chain rests properly in the tool. It also can be used to "peen the rivet" on Campagnolo chains. If you're doing a lot of bike shop work, this may be the tool for you. Here's a short video form Park Tools: th-cam.com/video/a-l_L6GTgnw/w-d-xo.html
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you for your reply. When my chain next requires changing, I will buy a CT-4.3. I like to have good tools.
@@dpstrial After thinking about this more, I personally would go with the Park CT3.3. Less money and works just as well, if not better. If you're dealing with Campagnolo, go with the Campy tool to "peen the rivet." Tony
Where can I get the KMC master links for my bike chain?
Available through Amazon: SRAM/Shimano/KMC www.amazon.com/KMC-Missing-Link-11-Speed-Titanium/dp/B07PNLV2K7/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=kmc+master+links&qid=1579204580&sr=8-2
Be sure to get the correct speed and the ones specified for the chain manufacturer. Note: that KMC now makes re-usable master links, although I would not use a re-usable link more then 2 or 3 times to remove the chain for cleaning and ALWAYS use a new master link when replacing a chain.
There is also a master link for Campagnolo chains:
www.amazon.com/YBN-Speed-Master-Camopagnolo-Compatible/dp/B07T14J3VN/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=master+links+for+campagnolo+chain&qid=1579204900&sr=8-12
With that said, some claim there is a danger of chain failure if a master link is used with a Campy chain instead of "peening" the rivet. While others claim they've had no problems with using an 11 speed or 12 speed master link compatible with a campagnolo chain. Anyone else have any experience in this area?
Good
Thank you. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
What is this tool name
The tools are mentioned in the description below the video.
I just changed the chain recently and the cradle guide snapped off. It was one of the cheapo tools but given I only chnage the chain infrequently, I will stick with the cheapo tool, about 4 bucks on ebay.
You can stick with the "cheapo" tools but with the savings from doing the work yourself will allow you to invest in a better tool. My moto is "the right tool for the right job." You're less likely to damage the chain or other component with a good tool. But that's just my opinion and the choice is yours. Safe cycling and regards, Tony
Nothing against Park but Abbey, Pedros, Unior or Campy are all better.
Have you used all of the above? What makes them better? Maybe you can enlighten our views. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed I have used all but the Unior. The easiest way for me to answer your question is to suggest you try them yourself.