Installing FIRM FEEL INC.'s C-Body Front Suspension Kit on 1970 Plymouth FURY Project MARSHA
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.ค. 2023
- While the more desirable A, B and E-body Mopars are being snatched up at frankly, idiotic prices there are still plenty of big block-powered C-Bodies available for cheap. Our Project Marsha 1970 Plymouth Fury III convertible is coming together nicely and this is a HUGE step in the right direction.
HUGE thanks to Firm Feel Inc. for their C-body Front Suspension Kit:
firmfeel.com/
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#moparconnection #marsha #cbody - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I'm a Brit and the E and B bodies are the most common here - I've grow up with seeing them on TV and at shows. But I own an A body and the C body is my second favourite of them all, especially the 70 Fury and Polara 4 door models.
There’s a British girl with a gorgeous 1970 Chrysler that drives it everywhere! It really stands out on your 500 year old roads!!!
When I worked in a GM dealership back in the late 70's the mechanics always folded over one cotter pin tab and cut the other off also, like the factory
Mopar!!!! Plymouth Fury convertible is very cool.
We think so!
Thanks for posting this video. There's not many Firm Feel videos out and this has me glad that I ordered their front end kit for my M-Body Fifth Avenue. While my lower control arms are still in good shape, I'm hopeful they'll design a replacement for those. My steering and suspension is nearly complete, but I'm also having a fuel injection system installed to replace the lean burn carburetor system at the same time. Once that's all finished the plan is to enjoy it for a summer, then have the differential upgraded and refresh the rear suspension. Loved the review!
Absolutely!
I bought the Firm Feel tubular upper control arms for my F body 80 Aspen R/T because I could not find a factory new or rebuilt set at the time. The Firm Feel was a life saver for me! Great video guys! 💯👍
Very cool!
Add the Factory Sway Bar👍
Factory? No. We’re going to go big with Firm Feel’s sway bars in a follow up video.
Reminds me of driving my 73 Monoco. Really needed shocks.
She’s floaty!
Thanks for posting this vid. Now i can see how to do my '71
Glad I could help!
As you showed here, the front drums have fins on the face on 68-69 C bodies.
This makes it difficult to mount wheels other than the 15x 5 1/2 inch plain wheels that came on them. I found that factory 15 inch 1970+ C body Road Wheels ( the little slot ones with trim rings and bolt on center hubs, not the B body 5 spoke type) fit best. B body Rallye wheels are close to fitting. I believe they would fit with either spacers ( which loses the hub centering and should be avoided) or by milling down the tops of the fins on the drums. It may easier to find front disks if you don't have access to a mill. I find that C bodies handle better with a 6 1/2 inch wheel even if the tire is narrow enough to fit on a 5 1/2.
One of my 68's came when I got it, with flat faced front drums. It may be that a previous owner replaced the finned ones with ones from a 65-67 of the same width.
I considered just cutting and widening the stock rims and keeping the hubcaps - just to be a little stealthy.
@@moparconnection If you want to keep the drums on the front you can do that. Otherwise, wider, used factory wheels from the 70's are going to be cheaper unless you have your own machine shop to do the work yourself. I had some B body 14 x 5 1/2 inch rallye wheels converted to 15x8 1/2 about 25 years ago but the shop closed. I can't find anyone to do it recently.
Fun fact: 14 and 15 inch Rallyes both used a 14 inch center. But so did a lot of 15 inch wheels.
I've reached the age where, although I always wanted the Hurst edition Chrysler, I'd be proud to drive any C body, especially a station wagon. Even though I'm more of a truck guy, My 57 D-100, is mostly '69 Fury. Front clip, 8 3/4 rear, wiring, and drive train. Did replace the 318, for a 340 back in the mid 80's. I love following other peoples projects, getting tips and tricks.
It was driving a friend’s 300H that really introduced me to C-body’s, especially the “Fuselage Era” cars. I still want a 69-71 300 as they remind me of a Charger’s “big brother.”
@@moparconnection I'm a scatter brain, love all Mopars. '55 and '56 300's way more appealing than any tri-five, in my opinion. And the 300 H is, and will always be the holy grail of C bodies to me. I've only seen one as a teenager, at the Red Deer Mopar meet. I was hooked when the owner told me to sit behind the wheel. Didn't get to drive it, but.... 40 yrs later, still a fond memory.
I need to do this with my 72 fury.
Absolutely!
Nothing wrong with a C body, I’ve 2 65 Fury’s, ones a sport Fury coupe, the other, a Fury1 wagon here in the U.K. WAGON IS A 383 which I’m replacing with a hot 440 and later 727 with the important ‘cope’ upgrades, the Sport Fury is getting a 528 gen 2 Hemi with a Hemi A833 4 speed and a Dana 60. A pair of wild dry dockers! I’m very interested in the front suspension upgrades as both are street cars, why? Coz I can and I’m bored of the same old same old B and E bodies, plus I love the stacked headlamps, bit thanks for the heads up on those upgrades, I’m seriously looking into it, along with disc brake upgrades.🤠👍
Absolutely, correct! There's NOTHING wrong with C-bodies and I'm personally looking for a '69-71 Chrysler 300 after I finish up on Marsha.
FFI has a great product line up & rep. I lived in the PNW for decades before moving to NC a few years back. I remember when Dick owned & ran it, to give you an idea.
Nice! Yes we were VERY IMPRESSED with the quality of products we got and will be upgrading Marsha further with sway bars and torsion bars soon.
Love it! Whats the next C body project car :)
We gotta finish this one first!
Kevin , sure wish I'd met you at Moparty last year. GREAT channel ! I have a "Marsha" also . I've put a 496 in her with a 3.55 rear gear. I hope to see you at Moparty this year, thanks for the tutorials !! I was thinking about bringing my car to Moparty but I saw no Furys at each event other than yours.
Yessir! Marsha will be in our booth at MoParty before she gets her final coat of paint!
If you can find good thicker torsion bars, sway bar , and possibly shocks, I'd like to see that upgrade. What did you mean when you said you "don't have sway"?
Oh, you weren't kidding. There is no sway bar at all on the front. I searched on line and can't find any reference to it being not factory installed on any c body. I know some B and A bodies omitted it if you bought a very small engine.
Firm Feel has a killer set of sways (front and rear) and HD torsion bars. When Marsha is out of paint we’re gonna install those.
@@moparconnection Was it built with no front sway bar from the factoy?
Yes. Like we said TWICE in the video.
Kevin, question at about 12:35 in the video when you guys flex the steering shaft, is the steering box still bolted to the sub-frame or loose? If its still bolted in that is TOO MUCH flex in the mounting.
The box was mounted but the column was loose to demonstrate how leaky that seal was.
@@moparconnection Still looked like the box was moving around too much.
Slop in the top equals more slop in the bottom.
Calm down. They were both loose. All we wanted to do was show the leak in the top seal.
There are a few things you should do next.
One is to read the E-Boogers Mopar Action magazine article "Pump it Down" lowering the pump pressures. Easy to do and makes the steering feel much better.
Two is to gusset the lower sub frame. When you pull the 'TEEN' out, drop the sub frame and sand blast it and weld some gussets in. Paint it 'Cast Iron' gray. Your steering box flexes around too much. The Idler arm bolt boss flexes too much. The upper control tabs flex too much.
Lower control arms flex too much. A simple plate welded on helps a lot.
These 1950's front end designs can be made to feel like a modern Rack&Pinion set up.
Not sure if anyone makes HUGE Torsion bars for C-Barges. But I'd put the biggest bar in and add a leaf to the rear to match. Bilstein shocks at 4 corners.
I can send some pictures of how to do the gussets. Just need an email addy.
All great suggestions! Email me at info@moparconnectionmagazine.com
@@moparconnection 18 photos sent. You can share them if you want.
Tack weld the gussets in first and trial fit the steering box and idler arm, grind as needed.
Most of these mods are NOT for a numbers 'Event' car but for a street car that you want to corner real well. They can not be seen at a quick glance but make a 'Night and Day' difference. They cost mostly time to cut, heat and bend 11 gauge steel. I think we spent $20 for a 2'X4' plate of steel and had enough to move the rear springs inboard and add Hemi style torque boxes to the sub frame front and rear.
Why Didn't You Put A Sway Bar On
That’s the next step in stepping up the car’s handling - that and bigger torsion bars.
What? Forward caster???
“Positive” caster, excuse me. 👍🏻
Perhaps down the road add the rear sway bar like i did on my '71 Fury
th-cam.com/video/hvvRUkPWzXk/w-d-xo.html
Yessir! Sway bars and thicker torsion bars are step #2!
No better way to waste money than to fix up this old turd. Better move is to put that money in a 401(k) plan or IRA.
*not a “car guy.”
@@moparconnection If you have adequate savings for retirement, then go for it. As far as I can see, this is money blown in the wind. Enjoy.
👍🏻
Have fun driving you 401. All those memories you made looking at your savings statement. Woo Hoo.
@@boydsdodge Having the financial freedom to do what you want is priceless.