The Single Best Suspension Upgrade For Your Classic Mopar - 1967 Plymouth Barracuda Gets A Sway Bar
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- Suspension upgrades, little fixes, and silliness abound in this latest episode on the Ultimate Daily Driver Barracuda project. Mostly filmed by Colin (and Henry,) this one is a slightly different flavor than the original recipe DDG you've come to know and tolerate. This was supposed to be the second half of our chaotic suspension upgrade video... unfortunately, everything went badly, and the rest is history.
Your brother is a solid add to the Channel.
Only 2 suggestions. (1)Jamie should put that kid on the payroll full time. (2) Lube that clutch linkage on the Barracuda. lol
We tried! It just loves to creak. He is going to pull all the linkage apart and go through it. There is an input bearing retainer mismatch so it all kinda needs to come apart anyway.
and play barracuda by heart the whole time - I mean you are on THAT side of Wa!
@ 17:01 You're little guy is too cool. After working so hard on the first side - You tell him "lets do the other side" but clearly, he's done with the whole torque wrench thing, so he says "your turn" Very nice of him to let you have a turn. 😆
Fun and informative vid. I really enjoy the dynamic between you and Collin. And little "Hot Dog" is priceless.
So many people have no idea of the primitive feeling of driving a car from the 60's and 70's it's a feeling of joy and uncertainty fun and sketchy.
It’s always fun. It gets less sketchy as you make little improvements too - like sway bars!
My 318 powered '68 Fury VIP didn't come with a front sway bar, so I got a factory bar and brackets from a '68 Fury big block and had the brackets welded on my stub frame and replaced all of the bushings. Even at the factory size, the sway bar made driving almost 18 feet of Plymouth a lot more fun. The car that's even more fun to drive is my '79 Dodge St. Regis also 318 powered but did come with a front sway bar. When it was my dad's car, he added a rear sway bar from a '77 Cordoba and I can toss that thing around like it's a much smaller car. No money spent on a anti sway bar is ever wasted.
Sway bars are cool!
Love the new videographer! He's got a great perspective on subject matter!😂
👍
He’s going to go far… but I almost got motion sickness editing his footage so we’ve got some work to do there. Haha.
My shoes are brand new and there's My bike, priceless 😂
I knew I had to leave that stuff in. Haha. But my personal favorite was when he said “you wanna see a really cool car?” And pointed the camera at the Demon, then said “…but we’re working on this one!” He wouldn’t call his dad’s car junk, but I’m pretty sure that’s what he meant 🤣
You two might just be the new Click and Clack brothers from the Pacific Northwest. From the radio show Car Talk, on NPR for the one's not sure on the reference. Great Video!
Click and Clack, the Tappet Brothers!
Yes, you know the one's from Harvard Square.@@DeadDodgeGarage
Great work men. Love the Idea of 'Tubular Roll Bars' and the weight saving over solid bars. I was in the states a bunch of years back and brought with me back to Australia for my Valiant, a Firm Feel, 1 1/4 front bar, (Heavy) and a frame hung (think AAR Cuda) rear bar. There were some very strange looks from the Guys at customs in Sydney airport that's for sure. Your right when say best money per Corner HP gain you can make. I've just Subscribed✌
The new "less tall" camera guy is awesome...
Agreed!
I like the ZZ Top version of Jamie! Kudos.
Mine suffers from shock absorber rattle. Next on my list. Already done the balljoints. Oh sorry forgot to mention mine is a Mazda. But yes I have owned a few Valiants. Just found your channel.👍
I had a 67 barracuda formula S with 383 4 speed. It had heavy duty sway bar and handled great. Had fender well headers. Miss that car
Thank you for filling in for Jamie. You did an excelent job filling in for him bro. :)
Freshly restored suspension......lol i luv it
Jamie, you should do more Dead Dodge garage with your brother and your nephew. I love the Barracuda I have a 67 with a sway bar it’s the best.
Oh I definitely will be. In fact they are currently far afield on a crazy adventure and making a video, I think.
Good day eh! Great to see another 67 barracuda! New suspension bushings, squeaking like a dog toy. Someone tightend the bushing bolts with suspension hanging. good chance the rubber has torn away from the shells now. I believe procedure is install new bushings and bolts left loose, put car on its wheels full weight and settled ride height. Then tighten the bushing bolts. prevents the squeaky toy thing. Dogs must go nuts when you drive down the street! Great video as always!
No, that is not what that horrible sound is… that’s the clutch pedal.
ahhhhh!
@@DeadDodgeGarage
clutch activation sensor!@@DeadDodgeGarage
you’re giving away all the SECRETS! that spray can trick is an integral component of all my welding jobs - go go Rustoleum!
🤣
Jeez, dude throw something over the arm, jus cuz it's not your fish, he is still you bro.
Your show is getting better with every show, and your quality is also, considering what your working with, which will get better too.
But getting your brother to do most of his work is golden.
I completely agree. Haha. He is also a professional mechanic, and a better welder than I am. He knows suspension much better than me. I’m the electrical and engine guy usually. It’s a pretty good balance.
Sounds like the clutch pedal bushings could use some grease - or new bushings. Or maybe not, all the distressing noises add a lot of character.
That noise was so much quieter when it had no exhaust 😅 I think it’s the down rod pivot on the pedal itself. Don’t know why. Have tried spraying the bushings with no change. We’ll figure it out when the transmission comes out in the near future.
I love the way this car is coming along & getting more improvements every step of the way.
Yeah! One piece at a time. Haha.
The kid is doing a great job and I like his camera work cool Bike 😊😅
Me too! 🤣 there were some gems in there.
Great video guys! Sway bar made a world of difference on my 68 Mustang. Give the kid the camera again. Epic!
She's a beauty ❤
I had just gotten use to double steering on ice over the twisties near the steep mountain embankments and then I watched your channel. This could change my level of constant alertness to thinking about replacing the heating core. Thank You!
Nice, nice. Haha.
One piece at a time. Henry's got it goin' on!
Good job Dad.
A-body suspension upgrade is a good thing ....and project Barracuda is turning out nicely....
Pirate jacks has discovered brakes in big and small bolt pattern
the ol' '76 Valiant sedan has the "340"-spec suspension, sway bar with poly bushings/Moog end links (the 'gooder' ones), offset UCA bushings, plated LCAs', KYB's, and the 11.75" rotors with cop car wheels & 60-series rubber. Not real trick, but effective and cockroach tough
Nice! That’s very similar to the setup on the Llama Barn Valiant. It works very well. It does also have subframe connectors and a rear bar. Now that I think about it, I’m not sure if the lowers on this one have been boxed or not.
@DeadDodgeGarage my '69 Swinger is at US Car Tool getting the "Full meal deal" sans rocker reinforcement right now. The Valiant will as well, but not before it runs the Southern Classic.
Looks like that sway bar made a pleasing difference to the handling. My Australian 1971 Valiant, which if you're not familiar with , is bigger than what you think of as an A body ,almost as big as a B body, anyway , I've got it handling really sharp ,and the best thing I did to it was fitting gas charged ( I think that's what you call them) shocks on the front, the one's that come with a wire on them holding them compressed until you've got them mounted at the bottom , then you snip the wire and they extend with force as you take aim at the top mounting hole. I dont know if you've used them , but now I wouldn't use ordinary shocks again, they make the front end feel very taught , but still not harsh riding unless it's a rough road , just ordinary heavy duty gas shocks on the rear. Before I fitted those I put a factory sway bar on it , I didnt really notice much of an improvement from that on it's own , but probably because it 's not heavy duty. The other things that help makes it a handler are , new ball joints , new tie rod ends, new wheel bearings and all packed up tightly with grease, basically everything in the front end in like new condition.With the steering box I adjusted it so that if you stand outside the car and turn the steering wheel just slightly you can see the road wheel move with no slack .235 x 60 x 14's on the front, 265 x50 x15's on the rear . A big improvement I made to the steering and road holding ,was setting the front wheel alignment to the non factory specifications ( for a street car ) recommended by the New Zealand race driver Leo Leonard , in the early 1970's he raced Aussie Valiant Chargers , and he did a lot of track testing to make them handle as good as possible , I wish I'd known of these settings years ago , I cant see any reason why you couldn't use the same settings on your American mopars, I cant remember offhand what they are ,but Iv'e got them written down somewhere, I can look them up if anybody is interested. 🙂👍
We’re hip to the updated alignment specs. In fact, the big upgrade we do to these other than the tubular sway bar (yes, the large tubular does much more than the stock setup - I tested that theory on my ‘66 Charger) is offset upper control arm bushings. We covered that in the last update video on this car (“A Very Chaotic Suspension Upgrade Video.”) I’m assuming original specs for your Aussie car would be similar to what we had here - configured for bias ply tires. Those specs are of little use to us today. I have never used gas charged shocks. I would like to test adjustable shocks some day. I would prefer to let the springs and sway bars handle the springing action, and let the shock absorbers do their intended job.
Also, those cars are indeed very different, and interesting! The 111” wheelbase is the same as the A body Dart of that time - but the cars appear much larger. It may be a trick of the fuselage styling.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Some say it's the styling that makes them appear large , but I've had(and still have) A bodies, including a Dart body Valiant, and they are definitely small in comparison.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Maybe the racing chargers used bias ply's, which seems a bit scary, but the Chargers sold to the public had radials ,that was around the time that radials were first introduced, so his specs would have been for using radials , which of course is what's on mine ,and as I say it made a big difference to the steering stability. I'l have a look at your video on the upper control arm offset ,it sounds interesting.
Good stuff . My brother and I NEVER got along , I love him , haven't seen him in years .
There's a huge difference in the amount of steering wheel input between this video and previous videos.
Yeah… the idler arm was completely loose or something.
One of the first things I did on mine was upgrade the front sway bar. Made a world of difference! Just happened to have found mine on Craigslist of all places.
I was spoiled with my 74 Dart Sport, it had the factory sway bar, may have even had a rear sway but I dunno if I am remembering that correctly. When ever another A body guy would ride with me, they always thought I was lying about me rebuilding the suspension stock, they always thought I had something crazy going on. They would always be shocked when they looked under it and it was nothing special. Sway bar makes such a big difference.
It really, really does. I am amazed by how confident the Demon is with the tiny stock bar. We’re not taking road racer cornering - obviously - but it’s quite respectable.
Installed the same sway bar in the same car, found if the bar is fully bolted to the brackets first and the brackets modified to fit the k-frame, this keeps the bar level in the bushings and prevents binding. I had to grind the k-frame side of the brackets to fit flush against the k-frame, then welded them on. Also, if anyone uses QA1 LCAs on early sbp cars, the sway bar brackets do not line up with the end links, need to cut them off and weld on the Hotchkis brackets.
Sway bar brackets are like always a problem. We’ve been using those bolt on tabs for years because when we started we didn’t have the welding technology. They just about never line up. Often, aftermarket bars and factory tabs don’t line up either - or links want to interfere with strut rods. Good info to have. I (Jamie) haven’t done these weld on mounts yet. I have installed a few of the bolt on type kits from Hellwig.
Yes, it looked crooked in the bar after the brackets were forced to the frame at 2:40 but I did not see that at the end.
Jamie give this man a job! Haha
Love it, swapping in a hellwig bar in my coronet this winter..along with the myriad of other stuff it needs.
Love the Henry Cam, had me laughing pretty hard.
Dude, secure the fenders!
Cheerz!!!
Me too. Haha. Knew I had to leave that stuff in. Listen… a good few of the fender bolts are extra 😅
Weight saving at a certain level.
Those barracudas looked super cool when they were SOX n MARTIN prepped!
Jamie, got a video idea on rebuilding a engine and selecting upgraded engine parts for a street car.
For example, I have a ‘68 HP440 and don’t know how to read the specifications on piston selection to increase my compression.
Another idea, discussing camshaft duration/lift. To help people make educated decisions on selecting a replacement cam.
Should you go up in duration or lift? Change Lobe separation angle? Etc…
God bless from Oklahoma!
Honestly… I’m not that smart yet. But I will definitely be doing videos on more performance builds over time.
Very enjoyable episode. You have your brothers gift for commentary, or maybe he has yours? When the little fella took over camera duties, that was gold. "There's my bike" 😃. 🏁🏁We drove too fast - everything is ruined now 🏁🏁.
He has mine - but many people get that wrong. Haha. Yeah I agree. I’m sure we’ll see more from him.
More 67 Bacarruda stuff!!
Oh it’s definitely coming. He’s working on the Fury currently. The Barracuda will be back soon I’m sure.
There is a big controversy with whether rubber bushings should be lubed. The factory says "no" in service manuals and Tech film strips (You should hear "Tech" ,the Pillsbury Dough Boy like character with the gravelly voice rant about it. ) but the current aftermarket suspension manufacturers say "yes" and even include some lube, as we seem to see here. These are probably poly but the same question presents.
These are poly. They do need to be lubricated, because there is movement between the bar and the bushing. The outside is greased to prevent the horrible creaking noises. Any retrofit poly bushing is designed to allow movement - like the lower control arm bushings that go in the original sleeves with lube, for example. Rubber bushings are intended to flex - no lube.
Definitely a lot easier than the ball joint replacement. Some very unnerving noise when it's riding down the road. But, it looks like it handles pretty well with the sway bar added to it.
That thing is made out of horrible noises… hopefully we get to the bottom of those eventually
@@DeadDodgeGarage That sounds like the making of a good video - how to make those noises go away.
That's a sweet ride man!!
More Colin or we riot!!
Coming right up!
a good o’lady , get to the fabric store , make her welders , a nice beanie , in a trendy pattern
If you want some serious caster, nothing beats Bergman/SPC fully adjustable arms. I saved money and got first generation of Bergman arms through SPC, but 2nd would be even nicer
Yes, those arms are awesome. Many companies make them. Personally, I want improved caster for $40 and some elbow grease… hence the offset bushings. The entire point of this exercise is to show how to build an awesome street car that does great things without throwing the entire parts catalog at it. By doing more with less, and focusing on the most important pieces.
I don't even know how to measure and set castor with my tape measure and bubble level driveway amateur alignments. I just set camber and toe in and hope for the best and put the skinny sacrificial tires on the front and watch for bad wear patterns to tell me if something is seriously wrong with the latter two. I would like to see this channel show how to do it correctly with basic home equipment, if that is even possible. I gave up going to shops decades ago when I realized the last shop was doing worse than my driveway jobs.
@@auteurfiddler8706 consider investing in tools that will allow you to do it all yourself: 1) Tenhulzen Automotive 2-Wheel Alignment Tool - All-in-one (Camber/Caster/Toe Plates) 2) Something like Longacre 52-78272 78272 Billet Caster Camber Gauge
Nice sway bar!👍
Only problem is you now have more understeer. If the front and rear roll stiffness were tuned for no swaybar, you will have a lot more understeer. You can half ass fix it by reducing rear tire pressure.
I don’t think the front and rear roll stiffness of a slant six A body were tuned for anything 😅 we have done this to *many* cars over the years. It works. It doesn’t magically lead to murderous amounts of understeer.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Perhaps these low end cars had no suspension tuning whatsoever. I would still increase the rear roll stiffness by at least increasing the spring stiffness. Add a leaf or two? They also sell shocks with coil springs incorporated. I have not studied this for these midget Mopars, but there must be an easy way to increase rear roll stiffness.
Just watch that sway bar wrench the entire chassis
Now would be a good time to upgrade to disc 😊
We’ve done this plenty of times. It will be fine. And more upgrades will come as the budget allows. His other car just got four wheel disk brakes, and already had tubular arms and sway bars front and rear. Don’t know if subframes are in the plan on that one or not.
It's a colin episode! Awesome!!!
This is the first time I have seen a Mopar that did not come with any sway bar at all from the factory. I was aware from literature that stripper slant six cars did not come with them. I was not aware that welding was required when adding a front bar to such a car. But of course Chrysler would not include the mounting so you could just bolt one on.
My one concern was when the test fitting was being done, the brackets had to forced to fit flush (2:47) and that it had to be forced and clamped up there. And the bar was now at an angle to the rubber bushings (2:50). See the gap? I did not see that at the end, so I hope it resolved itself.
We must be looking at different Mopars, because I’ve seen *many* with no factory sway bar. Like, most of them have no factory sway bar. All standard A and B bodies. Most trucks. As far as we know, all big block B bodies do have them standard, but don’t quote me on that.
I’m sure he worked it out. I cut a lot of footage. This car has seen some stuff, and the K frames are cobbled together junk from the factory before they’ve been smashed on every curb in the country…
Also, the factory bar setups do bolt on in many applications. Not all - as has been mentioned in these comments, actually. And obviously non-tab control arms in a and b bodies are a problem, unless the shock mount brackets are used. The Hellwig bars we used to use were a bolt on solution.
Watching your brother put shiny new parts on a car with a radiator leak reminds me of a time when i filled up my passenger side floor with jugs of water and drove 4 hours to buy a set of tires and wheels. Fixing the cooling system is just not as exciting.
Really it's the kind of thing I would do. I've got new pistons and rings on hand to go in the (currently disassembled) engine of my '64 Power Wagon, which has no functioning clutch pedal, brake pedal, electrical system, no bed, and *also* has a hole in the radiator...
Road Hazard 😊
Maybe a little
My 69 was pretty stiff. Torsion bars cranked up 235/60 all the way around and an extra leaf in the rear end. Go cart ish lol
I like this better than Graveyard Cars
Thanks! I’m very proud of that.
Anti-sway bars work even better 😊
Damn it! We’ll have to try that next time 🤣
nice conditions :-)
Hello Collin. Welcome to TH-cam! I umm, well umm... I'm trying to decide which gave me more pleasure. Your video, or a bad case of the flu. Jamie. Please tell him I'm kidding! (cough cough)
I’ll let him know. Haha. Chug some DayQuil and drink your coffee, Steve… hope it helps. Heck, mix the two, your call.
Hilarious! Thanks. I was about to mix whiskey and honey!@@DeadDodgeGarage
My 72 SE has factory rally suspension, scares the sh1t out if GM and Ford guys when I would blast through the esses. It's no sports car but it don't feel like it's gonna roll over...lol.
Love the new host, please tell me this is permanent?
Intermittently semi-permanent?
The noise might be the loose front fenders maybe?
No it’s rotational
I picked up a factory front sway bar for my Challenger at a swap meet years ago but never got it installed. No welding capability and I never found a set of LCAs with the sway bar tabs already installed. Now with better sway bar choices I'm not sure what I'll end up doing.
On the Barracuda's sway bars; are those grease fittings there on the bottom of the brackets? It seems like they're pretty low on the car, maybe the lowest point on the front end.
Yes they are, and yes… they will absolutely be ground off in the near future. Nice design work there, Hotchkiss… the bolt on sway link tabs that attach to the lower shock bolts work, but they’re not ideal in location or rigidity.
😂Glad I'm not gettin in that car 😂 When fenders flex when you push down on the front end, definitely not a safe car 😂
The unibody structure is fiiiiine. The fenders just aren’t fully attached to the car, that’s all 🤣
@@DeadDodgeGarage 😂
O right, Jamie "vacation". I'm reminded of Amy Winehouse "Rehab" for some reason....
They tried to make me go on vacation, and I said… oh sure, I guess.
I thought this was bolt on? Then I see see you welding brackets onto the lower control arms. Did you initially get the wrong sway bar? Just wondering. I always spot continuity errors.
No, the Hotchkis bar is *not* a bolt on kit, and I thought he explained that in the video. The Hellwig bars bolt on like a factory unit would have, and we have always used them to this point - but they have gotten ridiculously expensive. In any case, if your car does not have the lower control arms with factory sway bar link attachment points, you'll have to add them. One option (used by Hellwig) is a tab that bolts to the lower shock bolt. It isn't great. The other option is to add tabs - ideally with welding, although it is possible to drill holes and bolt bolt them on as well.
what upgrades besides Firm feels solid aluminum k frame isolaters would make a better handling 1973 Dodge charger, with the sway bars of course
Are you doing a Firm Feel gearbox as well? I would. Stage two, probably. There are other options too. Good sway bars are going to do the most there. The late B setup is very different than the earlier A/B setups that I have a lot of experience with. It’s more like a C body - or even a GM product, really. I don’t think there is any need for offset upper arm bushings like we use in the other cars. Poly lower control arm bushings and strut rod bushings would be a good move if they are available for that application - but I haven’t checked on that. Those might even be the same as earlier B bodies, although just about nothing else suspension wise is. There is always the worry of poly bushings making creaking sounds. Grease the crap out of them… You could try a bigger torsion bar, but personally I would stick to factory unless this is a serious handling machine. It can handle nicely and still ride well. Don’t forget good quality shocks. I often do… but they’re a sound investment.
@@DeadDodgeGarage thanks for the advice and different they are, my very first car was a 1972 charger and I regret letting it go but I finally found a this charger cheap (15 hundred) and it has a big block needs some body work and I figured that handling and stopping will be first priority and then the patch panel and other stuff till I can finally go back 35 years ago and have fun , I think that they make solid cross member for the torsion bars also want it safe and close to the feel of the earlier models not feel like the front end is riding on a wet sponge,
You gotta teach your brother how to shift without a clutch, eliminate that squeaky clutch pedal. Or just WD-40 that thing. 😊
Haaahaha. I tried the wd40 already…
Now he needs a rear sway bar
All in good time, Reginald!
Where do you get your wheel cylinders and master cylinders from? My d300 arrived yesterday and I need some brake parts. Thank you
That one may be challenging. I usually get that stuff from O’Reilly, but I’m usually shopping for A and B bodies and they carry them.
@@DeadDodgeGarage thank you
is it necesary to have a rear sway bar too? i've ordered a front sway bar and will install soon, but just wondering if a rear one is recommended to have?
The front one goes a really long way on its own. The rear bar helps to reduce body roll even further. I was very impressed the first time I drove a car with both. I wouldn’t call it necessary - most of our cars don’t have one. But it’s nice to have and makes a notable difference.
Question,entirely off topic,
Why doesnt the Charger in Dirty Mary get more love?
Because it’s so green? I dunno. Haha. Funny enough, two different people said that was their dream Charger in the comments on the last ‘69 video.
@@DeadDodgeGarage yea,i figured same,off sasafrassas green....
Im still a fan,saw movie as a kid when it came out,i was 11...alone,as a birthday gift
Gotta love parental supervision..
like to see a 16”
Ansen Sprint & white letters
I doub’t he’ll ever go that big. It’s small bolt pattern so 15” is hard enough…
Shit,,, man . perhapse you could do swaybar thing to 1961 Chrysler Newport or anything else 1961. Huh? Did i mencion ,,. Hell yeah brother.
Oh *HELL YEAH BROTHER* ! We don’t mess with those full size boat suspensions very often. Your only option there may well be a factory clamp on bar - or custom fabrication.
I have no clue how you find these old Mopars, but I am available for adoption....my wife thanks you in advance.
😅
What would you drive for the exhaust setup? Will you stick to the 1bbl Holley?
The 1948 works fine, so I think it stays. The exhaust works but it definitely doesn’t need that catalytic converter - if it even does anything…
@@DeadDodgeGarage Nice! You got two Daily driver projects but wich engine gets better Mileage? The LA or the Slant six?
215 70 14 isn't bad for a car this small. I would prefer a wheel with less reverse, though. There is room for more tire with if the wheels had more back space. 235 or 245 60 or 65 But wheels for the small bolt circle are not easy to find, especially this type.
I intentionally went for the smallest tire I could find for fuel efficiency purposes. I know almost nothing about tire sizes and they’re bigger than I expected. I wasn’t planning to make a corner carver. Yes, wheels are a big challenge. I was happy to find those - and I’ve been hoarding any small bolt wheels I can find…
Hotchkiss, Hellwig or Firm Feel = Good. ADDCO = Suck. Firm Feel makes upper control arms with more caster and rubber bushings.
We used to only use Hellwig. That’s the brand he mentioned in the video that has gone up substantially in price. The Hotchkiss is somehow now the affordable option. We will be getting a good look at a car with tubular upper arms and more upgrades in the near future.
I love the fact that you can call Hellwig, the phone rings and a person answers. Like a real, live person! Amazing.
Will it show just your knee? For like 2 hours at a time?
🤣
Camera is shaky, but otherwise it's great!
We learned that go pros suck (especially when the image stabilization is turned off) during the filming of this video. Lesson learned. Haha.
Who is this imposter? What have you done with Jamie?
That’s my fuzzy headed brother. Haha. We might be seeing a lot more of him around here in the future.
@@DeadDodgeGarage The banter of having more than one host is a good addition. Also, like the Mariozzi brothers, sometimes you hear two different opinions and that is interesting to hear both sides. Also, it would be good to see you sister since, though she may not be close to either of you in tech knowledge, she has an appealing realness in front of the camera.
😃
Which kit did you use?
Hotchkiss tubular kit. I’m sure on diameter - Colin would know but he doesn’t babysit the comments.
Hotchkis 22385F!
Thanks hot knees , you rock
After a set of Bilsteins and a 1" Tbar the sway bar was honestly barely noticeable :/
Another way of basically doing the same thing - how does it ride with the 1” bars?
Even with the 14s still on she rides like a new car. The rear is really stiff tho when I go over bumps since I got (XHD??)SS springs
That’s a beefy sway bar.
Go big or go home!
But that z bar squeak...
Dude… it’s absolutely horrible. The transmission stuff is coming apart in the near future to fix an input bearing retainer to bellhousing size mismatch that I missed somehow, and we will go through the linkage then.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I had it in a four speed truck. Drove me bonkers trying to find it. It's right up there with the speedo cable squeak. Except it NEVER goes away!
You should put disc brakes on it at least in the front for safety and stuff
What, you don’t like the 9” front drum, 10” rear drum situation?! Especially with the ruined right front drum… it all seems very safe to me. Anyway, this is one of those one piece at a time type deals. They work fine for local driving for now. We will see what the future holds. The car also has the factory small lug bolt pattern, so disk brakes are a little more challenging.
is it more expensive to hire ginger actors than it is other kinds of actors?
On the contrary - much cheaper!
You guys live in a Rust Belt just like I do I mean I live in Michigan the first tool I ever bought other than my hand tools was a torch because everything is nothing but a piece of rust they're not that expensive and it would make your guys's life so much easier
I have an oxy-acetylene torch. Also, we do not usually get the insane underside rust here unless the cars have been sitting in fields for decades like this one… we mostly don’t have to worry about road salt, it’s lower panel rust from rain water that we deal with.