Thank you for this video, quality work and filming as it should be, I wondered if you would advise replacing the felt pinion gear by a metal of aluminum one, or fitting a new felt one?
Another very late response: I apologise! I think you're referring to the fibre timing gear: if you regularly use the engine to >5500rpm then I would fit the steel (or steel & aluminium) timing gears. If in fact you keep the revs below 5500rpm, then the fibre gears are fine. There's very little difference between the noise of FTGs and that of Steel/Aluminium.
Hi, Great video, we are about to start rebuilding our B20 engine. And i learned alot from your video. As you say perhaps not a how-to videos but atleast i know whats inside and where now. :) One thing i have been worried about is the cam-axle bearings and how to get them out. I think you left them inside, do they rarely need to changed? Also is there a DIY method with only standard tools remove the gear from the crank? Thanks in advance.
The three camshaft bearings are not in the scope of most home engineers: extracting them is best done with the right tool; then the bearings are pressed in, then reamed to match the camshaft. So we simply hand it to our machinists and say "make it so". However, they are usually in excellent condition, so a careful visual inspection should be sufficient to identify any inappropriate wear patterns - in most standard road use situations the cam bearings are usually fine to leave as they are.
Hello I have a B18 engine that needs a rebuild. It’s a marine setup for an older 68 star line runabout. I was curious how long it takes to rebuild the B18 for a DIY type, and if you could offer any recommendations for the marine setup. I was told the motor was rebuilt but never installed before i purchased it, but it sat out in the rain and was full of water. I don’t believe it would need any machine work but I don’t know until i tear into it. Thank you in advance, Ron
Ron, a couple of days would be plenty once you've got all the parts. Note that the cylinder head and timing cover are very different on many of the AQ (marine) variants to the automotive ones.
Yes it should, however your '67 car should have twin downpipes, the early P18 had a single downpipe, although the later car had twin downpipes. So you want to make sure you've got the latter! Rob
is the oil pressure sensor easy to remove? i want to replace mine with a sensor that goes to a gauge but i dont want to get into it and end up snapping it
Raoul, it shouldn't be particularly tight, I usually put a (shortened) ring spanner on it and can easily undo it. If it does feel a little tight, then remove the downpipe and use a socket to make sure that you have no twist in the tool - less frustrating than shearing the switch!
I been watching your videos for a few weeks now. I have dissembled my B18 that spinned the #1 rod bearing. It had been bored to B20 pistons. Seems there are several head gaskets for the B20. How do I tell which one I need. If it matters. Thank you from a new Amazon owner in the USA
Randy, the B18 can safely be bored to accept the B21 flat top pistons, and we use the B20 headset with the B20 cylinder head in this instance. We have found Elring gaskets to be excellent quality, and never yet had a failed gasket. R
@@amazoncars Thank you. I do not know what head it has. I will have to explore that more. Bore is 88.9mm or 3.5 inches. No over bore from B20 specs. Thank you again.
@@randyphillips2263 If it's a B18 head then the compression ratio will be very high, it's difficult to tell the difference between B18 & B20 early/smallvalve head, but the late B20 head with big inlet valves clearly has bosses for the injectors, and so is fairly obvious. The telltale with the rocker cover off is... B18: 20mm diameter rubber washer atop the valve stem topwasher; B20: has modern style stem seals within the valve spring. R
@@amazoncars Thank you for spending your sunday educating this Yank. Just looked at the head. Inlet valve is 40mm. The valve springs have been changed to twin springs with blue/purple retainers. Nothing strange to me on top ( rubber washer ) No injector bosses. A casting number on it is 18 and before that is an unreadable letter/number. I have not started to worry much about the cam.
Because the top of the block is faced gently at rebuild (on the milling machine) one does not have to be over precious about removing the gasket. The "grinder" is a soft flap wheel of course, and grinder would be horribly aggressive!
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for this video, quality work and filming as it should be, I wondered if you would advise replacing the felt pinion gear by a metal of aluminum one, or fitting a new felt one?
Another very late response: I apologise!
I think you're referring to the fibre timing gear: if you regularly use the engine to >5500rpm then I would fit the steel (or steel & aluminium) timing gears. If in fact you keep the revs below 5500rpm, then the fibre gears are fine.
There's very little difference between the noise of FTGs and that of Steel/Aluminium.
Hi,
Great video, we are about to start rebuilding our B20 engine. And i learned alot from your video. As you say perhaps not a how-to videos but atleast i know whats inside and where now. :)
One thing i have been worried about is the cam-axle bearings and how to get them out. I think you left them inside, do they rarely need to changed? Also is there a DIY method with only standard tools remove the gear from the crank? Thanks in advance.
The three camshaft bearings are not in the scope of most home engineers: extracting them is best done with the right tool; then the bearings are pressed in, then reamed to match the camshaft.
So we simply hand it to our machinists and say "make it so".
However, they are usually in excellent condition, so a careful visual inspection should be sufficient to identify any inappropriate wear patterns - in most standard road use situations the cam bearings are usually fine to leave as they are.
Hello. Please tell me, does the camshaft nut have a thread of 1" x12? I think so. I want to make tools for pressing new timing gears.
Hello I have a B18 engine that needs a rebuild. It’s a marine setup for an older 68 star line runabout. I was curious how long it takes to rebuild the B18 for a DIY type, and if you could offer any recommendations for the marine setup. I was told the motor was rebuilt but never installed before i purchased it, but it sat out in the rain and was full of water. I don’t believe it would need any machine work but I don’t know until i tear into it. Thank you in advance, Ron
Ron, a couple of days would be plenty once you've got all the parts. Note that the cylinder head and timing cover are very different on many of the AQ (marine) variants to the automotive ones.
My crank pulley bolt seems really stuck on I can't get it to move with an electric impact any tips?
👍 👍 👍!!!
I have an opportunity to purchase a used aftermarket header from a p1800 for $75. Would you know if that header will fit on a 67 Volvo 122 coupe?
Yes it should, however your '67 car should have twin downpipes, the early P18 had a single downpipe, although the later car had twin downpipes. So you want to make sure you've got the latter!
Rob
@@amazoncars thanks Rob. Oh how I wish your shop was in Los Angeles, California so I can take my car to you.
@@filmart430 Now that sounds like a very good idea: it's 7° here in Suffolk...
@@amazoncars LOL...here in L.A. it is 75*F or 23* C. Sunny with maybe a couple of clouds in the sky. 👍
@@filmart430 California Dreaming over here!
is the oil pressure sensor easy to remove? i want to replace mine with a sensor that goes to a gauge but i dont want to get into it and end up snapping it
Raoul, it shouldn't be particularly tight, I usually put a (shortened) ring spanner on it and can easily undo it. If it does feel a little tight, then remove the downpipe and use a socket to make sure that you have no twist in the tool - less frustrating than shearing the switch!
I been watching your videos for a few weeks now. I have dissembled my B18 that spinned the #1 rod bearing. It had been bored to B20 pistons. Seems there are several head gaskets for the B20. How do I tell which one I need. If it matters. Thank you from a new Amazon owner in the USA
Randy, the B18 can safely be bored to accept the B21 flat top pistons, and we use the B20 headset with the B20 cylinder head in this instance.
We have found Elring gaskets to be excellent quality, and never yet had a failed gasket.
R
@@amazoncars Thank you. I do not know what head it has. I will have to explore that more. Bore is 88.9mm or 3.5 inches. No over bore from B20 specs.
Thank you again.
@@randyphillips2263 If it's a B18 head then the compression ratio will be very high, it's difficult to tell the difference between B18 & B20 early/smallvalve head, but the late B20 head with big inlet valves clearly has bosses for the injectors, and so is fairly obvious.
The telltale with the rocker cover off is...
B18: 20mm diameter rubber washer atop the valve stem topwasher;
B20: has modern style stem seals within the valve spring.
R
@@amazoncars Thank you for spending your sunday educating this Yank. Just looked at the head. Inlet valve is 40mm. The valve springs have been changed to twin springs with blue/purple retainers. Nothing strange to me on top ( rubber washer ) No injector bosses. A casting number on it is 18 and before that is an unreadable letter/number. I have not started to worry much about the cam.
@@randyphillips2263 Sounds perfect Randy, well suited to a high lift camshaft.
R
Sorry, I couldn't help but cringe when you used a metal chisel and grinder on the mating surface..
Because the top of the block is faced gently at rebuild (on the milling machine) one does not have to be over precious about removing the gasket.
The "grinder" is a soft flap wheel of course, and grinder would be horribly aggressive!
Gasket scrapers are standard equipment in most shops, they're perfectly safe to use if you're even halfway competent.