I'm not sure of the vintage of your watch crystal tool but I instantly recognized it. My father had a jewelry store here in Eastern Iowa in the early 60's and used his almost daily while repairing watches. The Timex watches were like an evasive weed that had just been introduced to America. My father sold them alongside his more traditional brands. He referred to those Timex watches as "disposable" watches because it was almost cheaper to buy a new watch than pay him to fix your old one. He often buffed out scratches on watch bodies and crystals to make them look like new again for folks. People back then often had two watches. A work watch and a dress watch. The Timex replaced the work watches first and eventually creeped into the dress watch market. I remember him selling new crystals for about .50 cents back then. Just think about that. He would buff out scratches in an old work watch crystal so the owner could see the hands again rather than install a new .50 cents crystal! A dollar still had some value in the 60's. A solid gold or silver watch case with scratches from daily use could be buffed to look like new several times. A cheap Timex with it's plated brass case was never going to buff out without stripping all the plating off. Later those cheap watches went to stainless steel to even address that advantage an expensive watch had. He always sold both the plastic crystals and the mineral crystals. Many workers switched to the cheaper plastic crystals in their work watches as they were harder to break but they did scratch easier.
What an interesting story. My father was a Watkins Products dealer but loved to visit Mr. Dennys jewelry store to have his gold pocket watch cleaned and adjusted. My grandfather owned a 120 farm and promised his six sons that if any stayed and helped him farm until they were 21 he’d give them a 21 jeweled Hamilton gold pocket watch. My father stayed and received the beautiful Hamilton and treasured it all of his life. The back snapped opened to reveal his name hand engraved In beautiful script inside.
@@ellieprice363 In the early 60's my father had two wooden drawers of one of his parts cabinets filled with gold and silver cased pocket watches. He got them with the jewelry store when the previous owner retired and sold the store to my father. As wrist watches became more and more fashionable people often traded in their pocket watches on modern wrist watches. They weren't worth much as there was little demand anymore for pocket watches. My father and the guy before him kept them around mostly as parts watches for an occasional repair. What's really sad is when gold finally started to climb many jewelers finally decided to scrap them for their case value. Even today those watches are mostly only worth about the same as their gold value. I used to often go through those drawers as a kid after school and closely inspect the insides of those old watches. Most are more beautiful on the inside than the outside. Even the early trade-in wrist watches were a work of art. I'd pick out a watch from that drawer and my father would take links out of the band to fit my tiny wrist. I'd wear it until something else in those drawers caught my attention and I'd swap. Decades later I would occasionally be home and open those drawers and still enjoyed looking at the vast array of styles within. I'd spot those watches I had previously worn and marveled at how small my wrist was judging by the watchbands still attached to them. I had very good taste in watches. Many of my favorites have proven to be highly collectible today. My father had a slick buyer come through and bought up most of my favorites in the 90's. My father like the guy before him had never really looked at them as anything collectable. He learned later what he really had were drawers of history but it was too late.
There was (and still is) a reason to repolish crystals other than price: non-standard shapes and features like date magnifiers molded in the inner face of the crystal. For those, it was either a repolish or ordering a replacement part from the manufacturer (and waiting a few month to get the part back)..
@@Fragaut All true. When my father ran into an odd crystal he needed to order he always order a couple of spares. As far as the wait goes that really wasn't a problem. My father would reach into those drawers of trade in watches and pull out something the customer liked and he would let them wear it until their watch was fixed. Occasionally those customers would trade in their now repaired watch for the loaner watch they had grown fond of.
Thank you Mr Pete. I found a couple of those electric engravers at a military scrap yard, all of their stuff had 24 volt batteries. I never had much luck with them.
@ 2:21 Note the bevel. I think it is a pipe flaring tool, and the mating tool which is a yoke with a forcing screw and cone is missing. Those seem to be common sizes for brake, fuel, and hydraulic lines. The hoop on the end lets you lock the line in it while you wrestle with the flaring tool.
I had a pen of that style in my shop by Martindale Electric, it worked just fine, especially on tool steel and other harder metals. The tip did have to be pointy and clean. Keep up the good work! JIM 🥰
Always cool to watch your "what is it videos". The electro engraver is something that I have quite a lot of experience with. they are invaluable in certain circumstances. Where they are ar their best is for marking hard surfaces, such as HSS tools. make a tool and want to mark it? this is about your only option, a mechanical engraver won't cut the mustard! acid etching is about your only other option... so you grind up a die or a cutting tool and want to mark it with a size, with your name or with a part number, reach for your electro engraver... The ones I have used have always been 12v and seem to work well and give a very good mark without disrupting the surface significantly... When you were testing this, it looks like there is some surface on the metal, paint? galvanising, oxide... something anyway which is detrimentally affecting the operation. A nice clean and uniform piece of material would have produced a better example! Take care!
Those arc engravers work really well, but you need two things: (1) a clean metal surface to mark, and (2) the tool must be held as close as possible to 90 degrees to the surface being marked. Holding it at an angle similar to writing with a pencil or pen defeats the smooth reciprocating action of the electrode; it generates a broken/dotted line instead of a smooth continuous line.
In Australia number two is some times called sleeving tong. Used in the power industry too usually bigger thing with a wooden handle. The copper sleeves were called McIntyre sleeves.
I have a saw set that I inherited from my dad. It's not hand-held like those in the video. It's a waist-high stand with the anvil and striker mounted at the top. You step on a pedal to load a spring that pulls on the striker. At the bottom of the pedal's travel, it lets go of the spring so the striker does its thing. It's from days before carbide teeth were common. I've not looked at it in years, but I'm pretty sure it has different anvils for different set angles. Once you have an anvil chosen, you can set a whole saw in a minute. Bang, bang, bang, bang. Done.
3:00 open wire is thay type of cable that was bare metal and held up on those glass insulators everyone likes to collect. Theres probably a page in the bell splicer manual on it but those are really hard to find
I always wondered about those crimpers. Did you ever notice that the largest, hardest to crimp hole is the farthest away from the pivot? What's up with that? Maybe there's a vice or something to squash it with. I've had a couple of them myself and don't know where they are now. I always found them useless. I can tell you the crimpers they use now days really put the hurt on terminals that big, like bolt cutters. Something is missing there and none of them look like they've been pounded on until I got it and started my apprentice training.
Electric Engravers… yeah, I have one that’s fairly cumbersome to lug around, per its transformers’ total weight. I’m not sure of its exact age but guessing it was made in the late 40’s to early 50’s; trans is inside a grey metal box about oh, 6”x6”x8” with a metal swing handle on top. One side of it slides up and off the box, reviling an angled panel with two terminal studs w/wing nuts for hand engraving wand’s lead ends to fasten to; a compartment is in box for wand, lead &, power cord. I’ve played around with it several times & it’s kinda’ scary to use, in that, there’s a very obvious amount of somewhat flaky white insulation protruding from wand, lead end, along lead itself &, the leads terminal ends, of which I’ve always assumed to be Asbestos. Aside from that, it works REALLY REALLY GOOD! Extremely more responsive then those test examples you demonstrated here although, as you stated, that pin version does work better w/12VDC bat. This one I have, was most likely a military spec’t unit; heavily overbuilt, for what it is.. weighs like 20lbs.! Damned near could be used as a tiny arc welder! Per that clamping tool w/varied sized thread-halved holes w/chamfer on both sides, really struck me as being just another version of pipe tube flaring tool holder
I too am surprised there's an interest in these. They seem to turn up weekly at the local auction house that sells estate items and nobody ever wants them.
@@andrewstoll4548 I have and use several of these tools. Both for setting two man saws and the smaller panel and tool box saws. I wouldn't say they are a big item, but I have had great success using them to consistently set the teeth on the hand saws I use.
I think modern steel alloys are much harder than before, so saws don't lose their "set" between sharpenings or their sharpness as they did before. Ron W4BIN
Ronald, saws don't lose their set as far as I'm aware. To establish correct tooth geometry, the saw needs to be sharpened with no set. First, the set is hammered flat against an anvil or steel plate. The tooth tips are leveled with a flat file ("jointing"), then each tooth is sharpened with a saw file, counting the strokes so they come out consistent. Geometry (rake and fleam) can be adjusted to suit the purpose of the job at hand. Finally the set is re-established with the saw set.
The metal you were trying to write on with the pen was horrible, rust, paint, whatever that surface was. That was not a fair test. You wouldn't have welded or soldered that surface. And as someone mentioned, a point.
Don't you just hate getting used tools that had someone's name burned into them? Of course you'd like to think they weren't stolen. Years ago I bought a new Kennedy box from a pawn shop full of almost new tools and he had burned his initials into every one. I knew the pawn shop owners and they confirmed that he was the one who sold them. He was planning to take machine shop classes and get a job and instead went into the military. Anyhow, his initials were as bad as mine and I have a whole bunch of DAM tools.
I'm not sure of the vintage of your watch crystal tool but I instantly recognized it. My father had a jewelry store here in Eastern Iowa in the early 60's and used his almost daily while repairing watches.
The Timex watches were like an evasive weed that had just been introduced to America. My father sold them alongside his more traditional brands.
He referred to those Timex watches as "disposable" watches because it was almost cheaper to buy a new watch than pay him to fix your old one.
He often buffed out scratches on watch bodies and crystals to make them look like new again for folks.
People back then often had two watches. A work watch and a dress watch. The Timex replaced the work watches first and eventually creeped into the dress watch market.
I remember him selling new crystals for about .50 cents back then. Just think about that. He would buff out scratches in an old work watch crystal so the owner could see the hands again rather than install a new .50 cents crystal! A dollar still had some value in the 60's.
A solid gold or silver watch case with scratches from daily use could be buffed to look like new several times.
A cheap Timex with it's plated brass case was never going to buff out without stripping all the plating off. Later those cheap watches went to stainless steel to even address that advantage an expensive watch had.
He always sold both the plastic crystals and the mineral crystals. Many workers switched to the cheaper plastic crystals in their work watches as they were harder to break but they did scratch easier.
Thank you, very interesting
What an interesting story. My father was a Watkins Products dealer but loved to visit Mr. Dennys jewelry store to have his gold pocket watch cleaned and adjusted. My grandfather owned a 120 farm and promised his six sons that if any stayed and helped him farm until they were 21 he’d give them a 21 jeweled Hamilton gold pocket watch. My father stayed and received the beautiful Hamilton and treasured it all of his life. The back snapped opened to reveal his name hand engraved In beautiful script inside.
@@ellieprice363 In the early 60's my father had two wooden drawers of one of his parts cabinets filled with gold and silver cased pocket watches.
He got them with the jewelry store when the previous owner retired and sold the store to my father.
As wrist watches became more and more fashionable people often traded in their pocket watches on modern wrist watches. They weren't worth much as there was little demand anymore for pocket watches. My father and the guy before him kept them around mostly as parts watches for an occasional repair.
What's really sad is when gold finally started to climb many jewelers finally decided to scrap them for their case value. Even today those watches are mostly only worth about the same as their gold value.
I used to often go through those drawers as a kid after school and closely inspect the insides of those old watches. Most are more beautiful on the inside than the outside.
Even the early trade-in wrist watches were a work of art. I'd pick out a watch from that drawer and my father would take links out of the band to fit my tiny wrist. I'd wear it until something else in those drawers caught my attention and I'd swap.
Decades later I would occasionally be home and open those drawers and still enjoyed looking at the vast array of styles within. I'd spot those watches I had previously worn and marveled at how small my wrist was judging by the watchbands still attached to them.
I had very good taste in watches. Many of my favorites have proven to be highly collectible today.
My father had a slick buyer come through and bought up most of my favorites in the 90's. My father like the guy before him had never really looked at them as anything collectable. He learned later what he really had were drawers of history but it was too late.
There was (and still is) a reason to repolish crystals other than price: non-standard shapes and features like date magnifiers molded in the inner face of the crystal. For those, it was either a repolish or ordering a replacement part from the manufacturer (and waiting a few month to get the part back)..
@@Fragaut All true. When my father ran into an odd crystal he needed to order he always order a couple of spares. As far as the wait goes that really wasn't a problem. My father would reach into those drawers of trade in watches and pull out something the customer liked and he would let them wear it until their watch was fixed. Occasionally those customers would trade in their now repaired watch for the loaner watch they had grown fond of.
Thank you Mr Pete. I found a couple of those electric engravers at a military scrap yard, all of their stuff had 24 volt batteries. I never had much luck with them.
Mr. Pete, I still use an old saw set tool. Really just cause I can. I enjoy a lot of the old ways of doing things. I am not as young as I use to be.
👍👍
So do I carpenter and joiner last 57 years in oxford England 🏴
@ 2:21 Note the bevel. I think it is a pipe flaring tool, and the mating tool which is a yoke with a forcing screw and cone is missing. Those seem to be common sizes for brake, fuel, and hydraulic lines. The hoop on the end lets you lock the line in it while you wrestle with the flaring tool.
Mr Pete! Good to see new videos. Make more please.
I had a pen of that style in my shop by Martindale Electric, it worked just fine, especially on tool steel and other harder metals. The tip did have to be pointy and clean.
Keep up the good work!
JIM 🥰
I always enjoy this series.
Thanks again! Always happy to see these videos
#2 I think it's the gripper for a tube flaring kit .
Good morning Mr Pete.
Thanks for the demo.
Always cool to watch your "what is it videos". The electro engraver is something that I have quite a lot of experience with. they are invaluable in certain circumstances. Where they are ar their best is for marking hard surfaces, such as HSS tools. make a tool and want to mark it? this is about your only option, a mechanical engraver won't cut the mustard! acid etching is about your only other option... so you grind up a die or a cutting tool and want to mark it with a size, with your name or with a part number, reach for your electro engraver... The ones I have used have always been 12v and seem to work well and give a very good mark without disrupting the surface significantly... When you were testing this, it looks like there is some surface on the metal, paint? galvanising, oxide... something anyway which is detrimentally affecting the operation. A nice clean and uniform piece of material would have produced a better example! Take care!
Thanks
Those arc engravers work really well, but you need two things: (1) a clean metal surface to mark, and (2) the tool must be held as close as possible to 90 degrees to the surface being marked. Holding it at an angle similar to writing with a pencil or pen defeats the smooth reciprocating action of the electrode; it generates a broken/dotted line instead of a smooth continuous line.
In Australia number two is some times called sleeving tong. Used in the power industry too usually bigger thing with a wooden handle. The copper sleeves were called McIntyre sleeves.
Thanks Lyle, always enjoyable. 👍
Interesting stuff
Have a great day
I have a saw set that I inherited from my dad. It's not hand-held like those in the video. It's a waist-high stand with the anvil and striker mounted at the top. You step on a pedal to load a spring that pulls on the striker. At the bottom of the pedal's travel, it lets go of the spring so the striker does its thing. It's from days before carbide teeth were common. I've not looked at it in years, but I'm pretty sure it has different anvils for different set angles. Once you have an anvil chosen, you can set a whole saw in a minute. Bang, bang, bang, bang. Done.
Pretty interesting I’ve used most of those tools when I was a kid,the only one I didn’t know was the lens installer
Thanks Mr. Pete!👍
I like the engraver.
Can you use the vise to put the lens on dial indicators?
I think the indicator lenses are too large for this tool
As always very interesting and informative. I learn something from at least one of the items that you present to us.
Fine job Mr. Pete.
3:00 open wire is thay type of cable that was bare metal and held up on those glass insulators everyone likes to collect. Theres probably a page in the bell splicer manual on it but those are really hard to find
Thanks Mr Pete enjoyed
GOOOOOOd Morning.
I use the same red engraver to put the date and mileage on oil filters.
I got one of those crimper tools in a package deal. It looks similar to yours. Mine has "Swedish never turn" and "S&W CO NY USA" printed on it.
👍👍
6:26 how did that work with only one wire hooked up? Or was the other wire hooked to that plate?
Yes. Grounded.
May be able to use the crystal installer it to replace lenses on indicators
I always wondered about those crimpers. Did you ever notice that the largest, hardest to crimp hole is the farthest away from the pivot? What's up with that? Maybe there's a vice or something to squash it with. I've had a couple of them myself and don't know where they are now. I always found them useless. I can tell you the crimpers they use now days really put the hurt on terminals that big, like bolt cutters. Something is missing there and none of them look like they've been pounded on until I got it and started my apprentice training.
The manufacture and designers of those crimpers never had a course in physics. A total lack of understanding of leverage.
Thank you for the demo.That engraver really sticks out like a sore thumb.
I had one of those electrical engravers. Not sure where it is now.
Electric Engravers… yeah, I have one that’s fairly cumbersome to lug around, per its transformers’ total weight. I’m not sure of its exact age but guessing it was made in the late 40’s to early 50’s; trans is inside a grey metal box about oh, 6”x6”x8” with a metal swing handle on top. One side of it slides up and off the box, reviling an angled panel with two terminal studs w/wing nuts for hand engraving wand’s lead ends to fasten to; a compartment is in box for wand, lead &, power cord. I’ve played around with it several times & it’s kinda’ scary to use, in that, there’s a very obvious amount of somewhat flaky white insulation protruding from wand, lead end, along lead itself &, the leads terminal ends, of which I’ve always assumed to be Asbestos. Aside from that, it works REALLY REALLY GOOD! Extremely more responsive then those test examples you demonstrated here although, as you stated, that pin version does work better w/12VDC bat. This one I have, was most likely a military spec’t unit; heavily overbuilt, for what it is.. weighs like 20lbs.! Damned near could be used as a tiny arc welder! Per that clamping tool w/varied sized thread-halved holes w/chamfer on both sides, really struck me as being just another version of pipe tube flaring tool holder
👍👍👍
Mr. Pete would you like to sell the saw tooth setters? I am interested in buying them.
Yes. Make offer plus shipping.
I too am surprised there's an interest in these. They seem to turn up weekly at the local auction house that sells estate items and nobody ever wants them.
@@tenlittleindians well I have some 2man saws and I have never seen them around here. I might find them if I went to sales north of Flint.
@@andrewstoll4548 I have and use several of these tools. Both for setting two man saws and the smaller panel and tool box saws.
I wouldn't say they are a big item, but I have had great success using them to consistently set the teeth on the hand saws I use.
nr 2 is voor rem leidingen en het is maar de helft er hoort nog een onderdeel bij !! opa
I think modern steel alloys are much harder than before, so saws don't lose their "set" between sharpenings or their sharpness as they did before. Ron W4BIN
A lot of modern saws are also laser hardened teeth so you can't sharpen and re-set them
Ronald, saws don't lose their set as far as I'm aware. To establish correct tooth geometry, the saw needs to be sharpened with no set.
First, the set is hammered flat against an anvil or steel plate. The tooth tips are leveled with a flat file ("jointing"), then each tooth is sharpened with a saw file, counting the strokes so they come out consistent. Geometry (rake and fleam) can be adjusted to suit the purpose of the job at hand. Finally the set is re-established with the saw set.
TKS
The metal you were trying to write on with the pen was horrible, rust, paint, whatever that surface was. That was not a fair test. You wouldn't have welded or soldered that surface. And as someone mentioned, a point.
Don't you just hate getting used tools that had someone's name burned into them? Of course you'd like to think they weren't stolen. Years ago I bought a new Kennedy box from a pawn shop full of almost new tools and he had burned his initials into every one. I knew the pawn shop owners and they confirmed that he was the one who sold them. He was planning to take machine shop classes and get a job and instead went into the military. Anyhow, his initials were as bad as mine and I have a whole bunch of DAM tools.
lol
KLEIN TOOLS CATALOG #50 HAS CRIMPERS IN LIKE in your video. Internet Archive.
👍
That catalog is $40 on fleabay! More than the tool's value!
@@xoxo2008oxox Do you know about Internet Archive? It is a massive online library.
Good Morning Mr. Pete