@@BadLuckGarage best way to do it, the time it takes to do the pass through you can have the bulkhead and fix any mistake or add a 2nd power or ground in engine bay easily, or in my case replace melted wires from a fire easily
I agree 100%. It also lets me get all the wires off the starter so I don’t have to deal with them every week when I’m pulling blown engines. I was planning on switching to them down the road when I had more cash anyway but like I said, one of my subscribers Phil decided to make sure I did it right the first time and I’m VERY thankful.
I ran my alternator wire to the battery side of the kill switch so if I can't turn off power in a worst case scenario someone can kill the whole car with the switch vary nice and clean install
Very thorough video. Thanks! Any concern that the gauge wire you’ve used isn’t thick enough? Everybody I speak to insists on overkill on the wire thickness, even using welding cable. Also, the same people recommend adding another ground to the block/cyl head as well.
Zero concern. This setup has been working perfectly for almost 4 years now. And there IS another ground going to the block as shown in the video. Chassis ground at the rear, second ground running to the front to a bulkhead that then splits to engine block and subframe.
Everyone misses something ...i miss my 1969 gibson les paul custom,i miss my nymphomaniac ex girl friend,i miss my $85,000k a year job,i miss my 72 chevelle,i miss my 55 chevy,i miss my 87 iroc,i miss my hemi cuda,i miss my youth..........i just dont bother talking about it
Question following your video for my battery relocation What is the correct name for the pass through your discussing at 40:03 been trying to find it on ebay
They are usually called bulkhead connectors. I didn’t link them in t th he video description because they were sent to me by a subscriber so I didn’t really know where he got them. But they do sell similar ones on eBay so I’ll try to put a link up in a few minutes in the video description. 👍🏻
I’m sorry for that. Lol. I rarely have the cash to do things “the right way”, especially when I’m building a car every year on the channel. That’s why I decided to slow down with this one and take my time. I’ve owned 7 of these 3rd gens and regretted selling every one. This ones gonna be constantly evolving and it’s not going anywhere regardless of what other project vehicles come to the channel. 👍🏻
Why not just take the alt wire to the pos lug on the starter? Bolt it there that way you just have the (1) main feed cable to provide starter amps and to take amps from alternator once running?!? Simplified.
Because it causes a power loop and won’t pass tech. Doing that essentially renders the cutoff switch useless as the alternator will provide power and keep the car running even if the switch is flipped. Explained that in the video.
Chaos Theory’s moving along now. Hope everyone’s enjoying this one as much as I am.
The install looks great. I like the battery hold down. 👍
I like those bulkheads. Thanks brother!🤘🏻
@@BadLuckGarage 👍
You gave me some better insight on how to mount my cut off switch when the time comes.. much appreciated 💥
Wanted to say great job ! About to do this to my project car u did a amazing and professional job
Thank you sir. Hopefully this video will help you out with yours! 👍
Chaos Theory is coming right along. That was a nice clean install, good job.
I'm glad i'm not the only one who likes to "struggle on purpose!" Well done tutorial Robert and love the humor.
Hell yeah! Really good stuff and clean install! Gonna get this done as well to make room for them turbos!!
Factory baby!! Nice job!!
Only video i seen use an alternator wire. I used solder then crimped mine.👍🏽
Love the bulkheads
Thanks brother. Phil wasn’t gonna let me cheap out on this one. Lol.
@@BadLuckGarage best way to do it, the time it takes to do the pass through you can have the bulkhead and fix any mistake or add a 2nd power or ground in engine bay easily, or in my case replace melted wires from a fire easily
I agree 100%. It also lets me get all the wires off the starter so I don’t have to deal with them every week when I’m pulling blown engines. I was planning on switching to them down the road when I had more cash anyway but like I said, one of my subscribers Phil decided to make sure I did it right the first time and I’m VERY thankful.
I ran my alternator wire to the battery side of the kill switch so if I can't turn off power in a worst case scenario someone can kill the whole car with the switch vary nice and clean install
Correct.
Very thorough video. Thanks!
Any concern that the gauge wire you’ve used isn’t thick enough? Everybody I speak to insists on overkill on the wire thickness, even using welding cable. Also, the same people recommend adding another ground to the block/cyl head as well.
Zero concern. This setup has been working perfectly for almost 4 years now. And there IS another ground going to the block as shown in the video. Chassis ground at the rear, second ground running to the front to a bulkhead that then splits to engine block and subframe.
Enjoyed the video robert, Informative as always! I know where I'll be ordering my wiring supplies from. Thanks!
Yea AC/DC Wire Supply definitely treated me right so I thought they deserved a shout out. Good prices and customer service. 👍🏻
Another great video Robert, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching brother.
Bro this is great info, good description as usual, thanks.
Any time! And thanks for the compliment!👍
Thanks for the awesome video today really appreciate it
Video helped me alot bro. Thank you sir
Nice work . Ya make me miss my 67 GTO
Everyone misses something ...i miss my 1969 gibson les paul custom,i miss my nymphomaniac ex girl friend,i miss my $85,000k a year job,i miss my 72 chevelle,i miss my 55 chevy,i miss my 87 iroc,i miss my hemi cuda,i miss my youth..........i just dont bother talking about it
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 I think you just did 🥴
That was a great video!!
Thanks a lot
Glad you liked it!
Question following your video for my battery relocation
What is the correct name for the pass through your discussing at 40:03 been trying to find it on ebay
They are usually called bulkhead connectors. I didn’t link them in t th he video description because they were sent to me by a subscriber so I didn’t really know where he got them. But they do sell similar ones on eBay so I’ll try to put a link up in a few minutes in the video description. 👍🏻
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm570.l1313%26_nkw%3DBulkhead%2BConnector%2B3%252F8%2527%2527%26_sacat%3D0&campid=5338299795&toolid=20008
Well done. 👍
Yours looks like professional like compared to my haggered ass shiz
Well I’m actually planning to keep this one when it’s finished so.....🤣
@@BadLuckGarage oh as am I with my shit box but you've inspired me to want better quality bits..
I’m sorry for that. Lol. I rarely have the cash to do things “the right way”, especially when I’m building a car every year on the channel. That’s why I decided to slow down with this one and take my time. I’ve owned 7 of these 3rd gens and regretted selling every one. This ones gonna be constantly evolving and it’s not going anywhere regardless of what other project vehicles come to the channel. 👍🏻
@@BadLuckGarage well my s10 is going to be the same thing for me other then it's my first and I hope to have it for a long while..
Then I’d definitely take my time and do it right brother. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Clean!
Thank you sir.
Tops guys are always better than bottom boys!!! Lol
🤣
Why not just take the alt wire to the pos lug on the starter? Bolt it there that way you just have the (1) main feed cable to provide starter amps and to take amps from alternator once running?!?
Simplified.
Because it causes a power loop and won’t pass tech. Doing that essentially renders the cutoff switch useless as the alternator will provide power and keep the car running even if the switch is flipped. Explained that in the video.
36:36