Hyundai i30 2007 clutch problems. Fault finding and repair.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
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Thank you
Hi
This car came to me with a clutch problem.
Even with the pedal fully pressed, was difficult to engage gears, mainly when stationary.
To engage reverse, you would always grind the gears... was like if the clutch was not fully disengaged, even though the pedal fully pressed...
And sorry for missing something on my poor explanation...
Yes, if the seals of the master cylinder were leaking, I woul probably see oil inside the car, and would be losing the oil level on the reservoir...
Add the above to the explanation...😉
Follow me on this video to find out what was the problem in this case...
Hope you enjoy the video.
Any questions or comments put them below.
Like always, thank you for watching!
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It’s a 16mm x1.5 sump plug if anyone was wondering? I fixed the same issue on my Kia Ceed 2012 with this hack! Thanks Lm autos
@@keithk9713
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Thanks dude! I had the same problem with mine after 230.000 km, and I thought the clutch was done. But I figured this was worth trying before changing the clutch - and it worked!
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Thank you so much. I have asked a number of mechanics what the problem with my clutch was and none have been able to provide a solution. So for about the last 5 years I have put up with it. Now I am going to go and fix it.
Hope it works for you...
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I just completed this procedure on my daughters 2013 i30 and it worked a treat. The clutch now engages approx 10mm from floor and not right on the carpet like before. The car is way nicer to drive now.. Thank you for the excellent advice.
That's great!
Thank you for watching, for your comment and for the feedback!
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Hey. May I ask what size bolt did you used ?
Thanks for any answer.
I’m not 100% sure but it’s listed on the receipt from the Motor Factors as Oil Sump Plug M18 x 1.5mm and part number 90021902031. Hope that helps.
How long did it take you?
Had this problem for over a year it was driving me nuts was about to change the clutch hoping that would solve the problem, came across this video and gave it ago ,it works problem solved thanks saved me wasting my time fitting a new clutch kit .👍
Thanks great!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
I have the same problem with my Hyundai i40 CRDi 1.7 since many years and its becoming worse.. It is build in 2013 and every garage I asked for a solution told me to renew the clutch. In the meantime I drove another 100.000 km, because I thougt, they are wrong. I´m so happy to find your channel and will check it tomorrow. Thanks from Germany.
Hope this helps...
That said, a worn clutch can develop similar symptoms... just keep that in mind...
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I have an i40 too with this problem. Did this fix do it for you?
Had a clutch problem on my hyundai l couldn't identify. Saw this and magic, the issue, and fixed. Thanks 👍
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You're amazing man! I just bought a 2012 i30 1.6 crdi. I saved around 2250 gbp on the car, cause the dealership was sure it needed a new clutch.
I'm not a car expert, but followed your guide and it completely solved the issue. Thanks a lot!
That's great!
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Hi i have the same variant as you, the inlet and outlet look different to the one in the video, ut i take it the same procedure applies? Remove the damper and fix with m16? Thanks
@@ncmMackin Yeah, exactly the same :-)
Hi, I have the same car and the same problem, but the place that looks like the damper looks like it's already had the plug installed instead of the larger unit like in this video. Is that what you saw?
Wish I had seen this video before checking slave cylinder,made a bigger output shaft 8mm longer than original,still gears tight.decided on a new clutch fitted and problem still there.Never seen a clutch regulator before so blanked it off and hey presto sorted.12-18 months of poor gear selection and spending on a new clutch,and it was that.£159 for genuine new one.Dont bother just blank it off.Great video .Thank you
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Love it. Very sincere and true explanation. Really appreciate all the effort you put into these videos. These kinds of experience and improvisation is hard to come by. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge.
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Thanks!
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Hatte das gleiche Problem. Regler ausgebaut, Leitung mit Verbindungsmuffe zusammen geschraubt. System entlüftet und man staunt , alles okay. Danke für den Tipp.
Ich auch bei meinem i40 CDRi 1,7. Neu gekauft und seit 2013 immer schlechter zu schalten. Jedes Jahr schlimmer und jetzt rollt er sogar los, wenn ich das Pedal bis auf das Bodenblech durchdrücke und die Gänge lassen sich oft nicht mehr einlegen. An der Ampel hilft dann nur noch den Motor auszustellen. Dann läßt sich jeder Gang butterweich einlegen.
Läuft Dein Wagen immer noch mit funktionierender Kupplung? Über die Jahre hat mir jede Werkstatt gesagt: Neue Kupplung, aber ich war mir immer sicher, daß es nicht daran liegen kann.
@@katrinvogt2485 Hallo Katrin, die Kupplung hat bis Heute kein Schaden . Warum das Teil Kupplungsregler heißt und in anderen Autos fehlt , ist mir unbekannt. Alles gute 👍
That is a great and cheap little fix, I bet the owner was well pleased.
Absolutely love your videos, I've watched nearly all of them now. Please keep on making them, you're gaining a real fan base. Huge respect for the thoroughness and sheer patience with difficult problems other people have long given up on! :)
I am wondering how many garages would have just swapped the clutch and dual mass on that car though!!!
thejoneseys
Hi
Thank you for watching so much for your comment, and furthermore for watching my videos!
Much appreciated!
@@LMAutoRepairs how do i can contact you sir?
I've heard that it comes from the factory equipped with a classic flywheel and not dual mass. That was one of the reasons I bought this model. But I could be wrong.
No DPF or changing geometry turbo either should mean less maintainance cost.
Hi, the repair worked on 2012 HYUNDAI i30 II. A garage was asking me 800 € to change the clutch. The screw cost me € 2.99 at Norauto. Thank you very much, good luck.
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Thank you so much for posting this video! I had the identical problem in a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. I even found the right plug size (16 X 1.5) in the comments and that helped a lot too.
Thank you for watching and for your feedback!
Excellent. I now know how to have the conversation with my mechanic to get it “sorted”! 👍🏼
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Thank you so much for this video. So good. We followed your instructions and fixed the problem, saved us a lot of money!
May I make only one suggestion, I couldn't find online or in the manuals the location of the bleed nipple on the petrol version but I did find a reference to it eventually. Crazy I know. Just above the gear box, in front of the engine. Very happy result!
That's great!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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This fix has certainly improved the clutch on my 2014 Hyundai ix20. Thanks for the excellent video.
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Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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Can you remember what size the blanking plug was for the ix20 please.
@@ashhendry6747 It was a while ago but 17mm seems to come to mind.
Thank you.
@@ashhendry6747 I've just had a thought, I think I used an oil sump drain plug for a Peugeot which happened to be the right size.
Try pumping the clutch to see if you can engage first gear, if you can, there are two resolutions possible - master cylinder replacement (possible leak) slaves dont usually give any issues on newer cars, or air in the cluch fluid -- neither of which is monstrously expensive to repair - Good Luck
I suspect this is the same issue as my wife's 2016 Veloster Turbo... Glad you posted this.
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Hyundai makes shitty parts. Sell that car… my 2008 tiburon needs its 4th clutch in 6 months now…. And I’ve been driving manual all my life…
Brilliant, just bought a Kia Soul 1.6 crdi with the same issue (I think its the same set up?). Thanks to your video I now know what to do.
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Going out to fix mine now
Thanks for the upload
Yes that is the fix
I just welded the hole to the damper
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That's great!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
fine! Where have I been before to see this video? paid 360 pounds for repairing such a problem.
The video is up for time...😉
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Good video as usuall ... if you would have shown dismantalling video, then I would have gain more knowledge from this video ..... very nice explaination ... thanks
Dev Dessai
Thank you for watching!
Thank you very much for this nice video. I've an 1,6 crdi i30 GD (the model that came after the one in the video Type FD). It has exactly the same problem that you mentioned in the video, master and slave are absolutely ok. I am wondering what is the real purpose of this regulator that you removed. My guess is, it is there to compensate the fluid volume changes when the temperature changes, but I am not really sure. From the Hyundai spare parts catalogue it seems that only the 1,6l engines have the regulator. I will try to remove the membrane like you did, hopefully it will work. Btw you are very lucky that your car is a RHD, so you got a lot of space to get to the damper. In my case, it is LHD, you need to remove the battery, ECU and Diesel filter and even then, the regulator is a very tight place. :)
Hyundai I30
Hi
I believe that the regulator on top of what you have mentioned, good point by the way... is also to minimise any feedback that comes from the clutch it self... it works like a shock absorber...
I bet it PITA doing this on a LHS... good luck... let us know how it goes...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
I have a 2016 Elantra Gt or I30 and am having similar issues with clutch slippage at 40k miles I have seen forums with a similar spring setup in the slave cylinder but didn't find one in it when I took it apart. I vacuum bled the system from the slave bleeder valve it was better but a few days later it has returned. When I looked up the diagram for my slave cylinder it was completely different than what I have on there
Ive seen hydraulic clutch pedal sys in cars as old as 1980 never seen a dampener in there yet clutch action is smooth and perfectly fine.. manufacturers probably threw it in to increase parts count/failure probability
Airman
You're probably right... lol
Thank you for watching!
yep ive done several hydraulic fixes over the years, never seen a damper!
Mine does the same „grinding“. But after 220.000km i guess the clutch plate is pretty much done, there are only issues when putting in 1st gear and reverse. All the other gears are fine.
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Probably...
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I had the same problem as you, and my clock says 230.000 km. Figured this was worth trying before changing the clutch, and it worked!
13:04 hmm sounds like a Bodgit and Leggit reference! Nice job.
jix177
I know...😁
Thank you for watching!
Hi, this is great as I was suspect the same but now I confirmed it, thanks for sharing this info, and well done.
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Nice repair! Never know where is a better place for the oil plug ))
MrBorntoroll
Lol... thank you for watching!
That's the same thing is happening to my clutch! As soon as you let go it engages straight away
Well done man, thanks for taking time to do and show. Great job.
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Thx for your helpful video,my kia ceed have a same problem and i was looking for solution....excellent
Hope it works for you...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Salut, la réparation a fonctionné sur HYUNDAI i30 II de 2012. Un garage me demandait 800€ pour changer l'embrayage. La vis m'a coûté 2,99€ chez Norauto. Merci beaucoup, bonne continuation.
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Excellent video well explained just what I was looking for will try it out as have same problem on friends car. Will let you know 👍
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Excellent video, thank you very much. I’ll be sorting my clutch very soon. I just wonder why Hyundai produce a clutch like this in the first place?
Andrew Meek
Thank you...
Hope you get it sorted!
Is not just Hyundai... There is other maker doing the same...
It makes for drive ability for people who dont drive standard a lot but if you drive your car hard as I do the slow release will burn threw clutches
I’d definitely mess up my car doing this 😢 I definitely have the same issue. I think I even burnt my clutch recently too
Thanks for this video I have the same problem with my Kia Sportage so I will try this again thanks
Thank you for watching!
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Hello..I have the same problem with my Kia Sportage...did you manage to solve this?
I have do this and doesnt help... Maybe just a litle bit beter. New chlutc and new uper cilinder the same problem. Doesent push enough... After a one week we solve the problem(the chlutc wasnt right, it was to low) . We get the original and car work excelent.
Best regards...
Have the same problem but thinking there is wear in both the Master cylinder & slave cylinder pistons where the pushrod connects the piston causing too much unadjustable free play which makes it difficult to engage reverse gear unless you double clutch before in neutral. There may not show any leaks this system relies on a light spring to take up free travel so it's non-adjustable. Only solution it to replace the slave cylinder & possible master cylinder & push rods. hope this helps.
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Brilliant video...this may be the cure to yet another unhappy Kia Sportage owner...!!
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great video once again, great fault finding and sorting the problem out with common parts/tools. is that transmission fluid in that tank? is that line connected to the transmission oil tank?
Boom Shaka Laka
Hi
Thank you for watching!
No, the tank is brake fluid....
Some cars have the hydraulic clutch connected to the brakes reservoir... this one have a separate reservoir just for the clutch...
Hope that answers your question.
it did, thank you
very informative video do you remember what sump plug you used to black of the elbow joint?
thank you
One that fitted...😋
I don't remember the thread size... sorry...
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@@LMAutoRepairs Damn do remember if it was a hyundai plug or just. Random ome
Was definitely random... and I bout it on my local car parts shop...
I just asked them for a few different sump plugs, and one fitted...😊
buenas noches amigo una pregunta he mirado todo el sistema del embrague he cambiado el.cilimdro maestro el pistos de la caja cambios y lo bamos espurgado todo el sistemas y el embrague sigue duro puede ser esa pieza que dices tu , un saludo desde españa gracias
Thankyou so much sir I have this exact problem
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Had this exact same problem, tried this fix ,worked brilliantly for about 3 months but the problem came back now scratching my head ,looks like gearbox out for further investigation.
Or clutch...
@@LMAutoRepairs Again like another chap doing similar vids a mileage aspect would be nice as since about 2000 most cars have lifetime clutches rear brakes (shoe type) etc so when problems occur unless riding the clutch has taken place would be nice if things like clutch have to be replace we know the mileage etc if known, many thanks.
Thank you for explaining so good. I learned something new :-)
Krille's Garage
Thank you!
Hello i have the same issue, is there any chance me bringing my car over to get it fixed ?
can you also make a guide on how to bleed the system afterwards?
Same as you do with brakes...
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@@LMAutoRepairs I don't even know that. Do you think I'll be able to do it at home or do I need to take it to the garage.
You can do it at home... providing you some basic tools...
@@LMAutoRepairs can you let me know how to do it
I can, but might not be very helpful, search here on TH-cam, I am sure you will find detailed instructions on how to do it... I never recorded anything like that...
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Great video mate, thank you very much! Is the bleed valve for the clutch the one at the front of the engine, just behind the radiator? Also, when i am bleeding the system do i continuously press and release the clutch pedal whilst someone is filling the reservoir until no more air is in the system? And when do i tighten the nipple, when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor or when it is out? Thanks again for the great video
Hi
Yes, that is the slave cylinder, and is where you bleed the system.
Just bleed it using the same procedure as when bleeding brakes... same thing... it will work just fine!
Thank you for watching!
I had an i30 slave cylinder sucking air back in, it wasn't leaking fluid though.
Thank you. For the great work and info
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Please tell us what sump plug thread and size blanking bolt you used so I can get one before I start
Would lengthening the clutch pedal travel have the same outcome?
I am thinking the same, an answer would be great.
Such a super video, your instructions are top rate.
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Thanks...
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Ahh thanks, what is the part actually called,
What size thread was the sump plug you used, does blanking it not break something else? Surely its there for a reason? I have the same issue
I don't remember the size details...
The reason for it, it to absorve vibrations from the clutch...
By removing it, you might fell a bit more vibrations on the clutch pedal... breaking something else? Not really...
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Hi I have a hyunida i30 2009
I have this issue but I'm confused why you need the sump bolt if its already blanked off with the large round thing. Sorry I'm not mechanical minded.
How do I feel the system back up with also how do I bleed the other side the metal pipe?
Hello. In my Hyundai IX35 Liquid leakage through Clutch controller. Please write can I block a screw and everything will be ok?. thank you
Nice damper delete mod.. Big Thumbs Up.
Mike James
Thank you!
thank you my teacher ,and for explanation
abderrahim amroune
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Thank you for watching!
Hi, and what if the clutch is heavy? Biting point is ok though (middle way). Thanks
Great video and explanation how system works my friend. Cheers.
KY Home Garage KY Home Garage
Thank you Ramon!
My newer Hyundai I30 GD has the same issue. Just an overengineered system with no real value. Except for the producers and service guys pockets if you take it to service for the fix. This thing broke after the warranty. Coincidence? I think not. :))
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What size and thread type plug did you use mate?
It’s M16x1.5
What size sump bolt did u use
Hi, my car also doing the same but i tried the solution which you shown but it didn't work, can u pls tell me what else it could be please.
my ix35 clutch is biting low as well and sometimes it works perfectly but sometimes its hard fo put the car in the 1st and 2nd gear.
My damper once got ripped and oil was leaking so I actually replaced it with a new damper and Hyundai charged me £150 for part only
What do you suggest, the clutch is gone or is is it the damper or clutch bleeding issue?
Awesome tip, thanks mate!
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Fantastic video. Thank you!
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Thanks!
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Quick question, can I remove the damper on its own or do I have to remove the elbow as well?
You better remove the aluminium housing and attach it to vice before trying to remove the damper as it’s tight. Otherwise you’ll easily break the plastic master cylinder if you bend it.
I have 2015 peugeot 308 t9 1.6 ehdi 115hp 6 speed manul. I am having problem somtimes it wont go in reverse, and offten is bit hard to go in first gear and second when stationary . I changed gearbox oil but it didn not fix it. Allso when was summer and car sits long on the sun clutch pedal slowly returns when it is depresd and squeaks (i thing i know reson for that is that on top master clynder there is plastic ball and clip that connects master cylinder and clutch pedal gets worn and uper returng spring). Now when its cold when i turn heat to the legs clutch is again slow on return. But that dosent bother me as is that in oreder to engage reverse i need to go to second but second gear wich is also somtimes is hard, then to reverse and this trick does not work allways. I fell litle like "bump" when engage first, second and reverse when stationary even when i try third gear . I fell like my clutch does not disengage when presd. Can it be addyusted. This is my clutch master cylinder www.autodoc.co.uk/valeo/7657323 and this is slave www.autodoc.co.uk/valeo/10247792. I have monitogring clutch fluid for two monts now it does not fall of. Could be helpfull to try bled clutch? When turned of car shifts god and while driving its good. Thank you
On top of everything, how old is your clutch?
It could actually be the clutch it self... or the DM fly wheel...
It is a bit difficult to say without actually "feel" the problem... if you are unsure, take it to someone that knows about it, as will be able to guide you in the right direction...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs i dont know maybe it was never changed, but clutch does not slip and car does not shake or vibrate when taking off or driving
I just have done test my car clutch grabs allmost instat half or centimer of ground
@@fernandostanic2035
What helps pushing the clutch back, is the clutch pressure plate... if that has weakened, can cause you that problem...
Im going to try this on my girlfriends kia ceed this weekend, is it best to buy a replacement damper or just "delete" the part completely. Im worried that part will affect the clutch pedal in the future, as surely its needed? Many thanks for the video, very helpful.
Up to you really...
Not all cars have this damper... so, it is really needed?
You can delete it... if you don't like it, fit a new one...
Thank you for watching!
What is the part name temper or what?
Clutch damper or something along those lines...
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@@LMAutoRepairs thanks
Clutch hydraulic regulator
I have same problem with it but replaced slave cylinder, blanked that damper as it was pisind thru the bottom... All gears are fine now but only the reverse its still grinding so i think the next step will be the clutch it self.. Car has 96k and another problem i found was the linkage inside jumped.. That i checked before starting the job but honestly.. How the f... Can u pull off that gear stick to jump out the linkages 😆😆
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Great informative indeed 👍
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What sump bolt did you use can't find one anywhere normal bolt is no good
Can't remember now... sorry...
At the time I bought 2 or 3 different Inês at my local car parts shop, and one fitted...
But I never measured it...
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Hi I have the same problem
Hi great video my i30 has got this exact problem took it to local garage more or less said the problem lies with the clutch , I'm thinking of having a go myself , do you have to take the large square plastic box off to get to it , and could you please guide me through on how to bleed clutch , where is the bleed nipple etc many thanks Ray
ray newman
Hi
I am not sure which square plastic box you are talking about...🤔
The bleeding nipple is on the slave cylinder... at the gearbox... easy to get to...
Remember that you might have a different issue.... but you can have ago at this... nothing to loose...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
I got i30 diesel 2010 so if I change the damper would resolve the issue? Thanks
If the damper is the issue, yes...
If you have other issues, no, will not solve it...
Thank you for watching!
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tried this on my wifes 2008 diesel did work for a bit but the clutch was just worn out she rides the clutch! with the new clutch in the sump plug fix was no good the part is a fluid regulator assy not a damper it controls the fluid to the slave cilinder these parts are in the car for a reason a temporary fix is no good
Hi
Whatever is called I am not sure... this part, does not regulates the fluid... it is definetly a sort of damper... jus see how fits on the fluid line...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
all i know part no h*41690-2H900 regulator assy hyundai i30 if the part is suppossed to be there now her car works like new unlike with the sump plug fix ,regards peter
part no H*41690-2H900 regulator assy if i am fixing a car maybe it should be totally stock not some fix for now . regards peter
Hi great video. You spoke about the slave cylinder might be wore at point it contacts the clutch fork, if this piece was worn can you replace it separate to the slave cylinder? Like is it like a ball that would screw to the slave cylinder ram?
jj jj
Hi
The fork comes from inside the gear box,
You can obviously replace it individually, but that means removing the box etc...
If is that what you mean...
Thank you for watching!
Oh it’s the fork that wears out. Thank you. Keep up the good work
@@CristiSacalul
Hi...
Well, my guess is that if is only doing it on reverse, the issue might be the gear box...
The clutch and all its components work the same way independent of which gear you select....
Hope that helps.
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs Hi. I have a problem with a Kia c'eed 2010, 1.4 CVVT, 90hp. There is a noise only in reverse while I release the clutch pedal slowly. The mechanic said the release bearing is the problem and changed the clutch kit but the noise appeared again after one month.
I have the same noise like this guy but now it doesn't do it all the time and not so loud all the time. If the noise is present and release the clitch pedal entirely the sound dissappears
th-cam.com/video/ooq5erzmF0w/w-d-xo.html&feature=share
I have this exact problem in the same car as this. Have you any idea what size thread was the sump stud you used? Or even what was it from? thanks and very nice video, may well save me a lot of money as my mechanic wants to fit a new clutch and flywheel!!!
David 1980
Hi
To be honest is just went to a local car parts shop and bought a sump plug... I believe it is a sort of universal plug... I took this part with me to try it, they showed me two or three different threads, and one fitted just fine...
Sorry I can't give you the thread size....
Hope that helps!
thanks for the fast reply! ;-)
Thanks for your help but didnt work for my car. Must be something else. 😁
David 1980
Sorry to hear that...
Ensure that the slave and the master cylinders are good before jump to the clutch...
Thank you for your feedback...
Thanks so much!
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Hi thanks for your good video, can you tell me what type of the engine drain oil bolt you using to block please or send the link to me please
Hi
I bought it at the local car parts shop...
And to be honest, can't remember the details...
Don't you have a shop near you?
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs unfortunately no nearest shop to me 40 minute drive, if you remember the size or which car is great, thank you
Hello. I have a Hyundai i30 and I have a similar problem. When the car is turned off, the first and second gears work very precisely, however, when the car works after a few minutes I have a problem with the gearbox, it is very difficult to enter the first and second gears. Do you think either of these two cylinders could be a problem? Thanks.
Possibly...
Clutch it is also a possibility...
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The other one was doing the same!
excellent video
Thanks!
Thank you
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thank you for this video !!!
hamdit
Thank you for watching!
My 2006 has similar symptoms, but a very different, in-line damper. Out of interest, is the clutch still working perfectly on this car?
Hi
Have not been told otherwise...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
The problem came after removing this valve is the vibration on the pedal. So annoying to be honest specially with higher rpm you feel the clutch vibration in your feet zzzzz.
It keep it for a while to check the difference. I still didn’t try the car more than 2 hours.
If you have too much vibration, perhaps you have other issues with the clutch assembly... fly wheel, thrust bearing, etc...
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@@LMAutoRepairs its all been changed 2 weeks ago, all four parts including the flywheel. Also the pedal cylinder. All oem parts. The vibration is the first think i notice today i will keep digging for the problem and let you know all.
My car is santa fe 2011 2.4 motor
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Good job
Thanks!
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Later on after deleting the clutch regulator, is possible to have some negative impact on clutch or to get to much pressure in clutch pipes? As not sure to replace clutch regulator or to leave how you done
Nothing to do with pressure really...
Is more that you might feel more small vibrations when pressing the clutch...
Other than that should be fine...
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There is another option to make clutch smother is to remove clutch delay valve, I’m thinking about removing it. Have any experience with this?
Would it be possible to clamp the pipes so you don't have to bleed it
Possibly... but there is always a possibility for air to get into the system still...
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Hi, I have a kia ceed 2012 with this issue! I just brought it , 119,000 miles on the clock, my damper thing looks like it is part of the slave cylinder as so old, is it possible to do the fix while its still connected to the car? if its not could you show me/us how to remove it please, also what did you use to unscrew the thing? some pliers?
Many thanks
Hi
Yes... some pliers, a big adjustable, or a wrench will do...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
great vid. spent weeks looking for similar symptoms and diagnostics.
Replaced the slave cyl. then moved to the master (still need to change it).
I didn't knew how it could be leaking internally, nor about the diaphragm thing.
Went to pick up the master cyl. from hyundai paid a fortune for it ...
I deduced the pedal test and performed it also. :)
Now I know could delete it!
Well we live and learn :)
Will post news next week when I change it.
PS: Scrapers are sold out of this part and there is no aftermarket makers producing it really sad.
Yes... we learn every day...
Hope you get it sorted!...🤞
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
I have a question .. I was used to driving a Mazda and the clutch always caught at the top . I just got a 2008 Hyundai Elantra and I have to push it to the floor . Noting strange other wise but I been told that's just how they are and someone else told me it's going out . So is it just how these are ?
Hi
I don't own any Hyundai, in this case, this was the issue, on other models I am not sure... it might be that they are design that way...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Where are you based? Looking for someone to do this quick fix on my car.
I'm going to tackle this job tomorrow. The sump plug has an M16 x 1.5 thread, I bought one for a Peugeot 405 that is the right size. Unfortunately it needs an 8mm square key, but I found I had one in my tool cabinet. One thing I'm not sure about is the metal clip that holds the damper to the master cylinder. Does that clip just lift out completely?
I believe it does... if I recall correctly...
Thank you for watching!
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@@LMAutoRepairs Thanks, I just needed a small screwdriver to lever it upwards. The valve also needed a lot of force to pull it off the master cylinder, again I had to carefully lever it away with a screwdriver. Replaced the valve with a plug, put it back together, bled the air out and the gear-crunching has gone away. One thing I did first was to unscrew the bolts holding the reservoir and lower it to the same level as the master cylinder. This stopped the fluid leaking out as much while the valve was dis-connected.
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Great video thanks. I have the opposite problem with my 2017 1.0 t-gdi engine. It bites very high, almost above when releasing the clutch pedal. The clutch is relatively new and not worn. What could be the problem? Air in the system and can I bleed it by bleeding the slave cylinder?
It could be air... try to bleed it and see how it goes...
@@LMAutoRepairs Thanks for the reply. It is just opening and closing the nipple on the slave cylinder while someone presses the pedal right?
@@Pesar25
Pretty much...
Just keep an eye on the reservoir... and top it up as needed...
@@LMAutoRepairs Oke cool thanks! I have subscribed to your channel :-)
@@Pesar25
Appreciated!
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Thanks master
Must mechanic
Thank you for watching! 😉