To use the Orlandoo shocks, you need to also buy some of the Orlandoo ball screws, which have the same threads as the RC4WD. Also, it looks like you used the 230 models; I used the 280s with just the long spring. The 280s are a little longer with much more travel, but with one spring you get sag (droop) for lower COG, about the same up-travel and much more down-travel. Articulation is far superior.
Hi, gutes Video👍... Ich habe vor kurzem erst den ST8 Multiple Servo Tester entdeckt. Den gibt es aber schon länger... vielleicht könntest du den mal präsentieren und ausprobieren, falls du den hast. Weiterhin viel Spaß und danke für deine hilfreichen Tipps... 👌
Hi, danke. Ich kenn das Ding, hab es nicht (hab aber das Toolkit Wattmeter), und wüßte nicht, was ich damit machen sollte. Das einzige, was dieser Tester kann im Vergleich zu den "billigen" Servotestern, ist Strom (Ampere) messen. Das kann/mach ich so auch bei den Servotests. Es kann nicht die Geschwindigkeit und die Zugkraft messen. Ob ein Servo ruhig läuft... etc. - dafür braucht man nicht so einen doch recht teuren Tester, dafür tut es ein 3 - 10 € Tester, genau so zum Einstellen (auf 0 etc.). Sonst kann das Ding ja nichts, außer "schön aussehen" und ein schönes Display haben. Irgendwelche Sbus, PWM oder PPM Frequenzen vom Empfänger zu testen... ja, eh, nur für was, wer braucht/verwendet das? Ist ähnlich wie beim Toolkit WM150 Wattmeter (das aber deutlich billiger ist), schönes Display (viel zu klein um was ordentlich lesen zu können), aber praktischer Nutzen im Vergleich zu anderen Wattmetern (ich hab da noch so ein Hobbyking Ding)? Das Wattmeter geht ja noch, aber dieser Servotester ist IMO fast "für nix", wenn man einen anderen, billigen Servotester hat und ein Labornetzgerät zur Stromversorgung und zum Ablesen der Ampere (und das geht sogar, hab ich auch gemacht, mit einem normalen Multimeter, wenn man sich Stecker/Kabel bastelt). Außerdem kann dieser Servotester minimal 5 V, das heißt, man kann z.B. keine LV Servo (wie Orlandoo-Servos) testen. Also ich werde den Tester sicher nicht kaufen. Hier findest du ein bißchen was über den Tester: www.rockcrawler.de/thread/42087-toolkitrc-st8-servo-tester-und-wm150-wattmeter/?postID=1230963&highlight=toolkit#post1230963
No US distribution. You have to order it in Germany, guess it is even in stock actually, was sold out most of the time (high demand), www.modellbau-regler.de/shop/index.php?cPath=15 , shipping is about 8 bucks to US as far as I know (for me living in a neighbour coutry to Germany the same shipping costs).
The esc is amazing I got one then ordered 2 more. They take about 2 weeks to ship to the us. I had to check the website everyday for a week or two till they were in stock. It was worth it.
@@charlieshankles Now Modellbau-Regler.de could make 400 more, because they could get the parts (super difficult, processor, special Mosfet). First batch was only 200, second also only 200 because of parts shortage. Now they should be in stock for some time.
Another great video, as usual. Using an n30 motor in a 24th scale (even a small 24th) is just silly, but then again, I haven't heard many good things about the tiny TF2. I mean, when it's delivered with an extra, stronger, motor in the box, that's not a great sign. I don't know if they still do that, but the videos I watched when it came out talked about the stronger motor replacement you got. You should have waited just a little bit longer with your motor upgrade though, now that Furitek is coming out with a brushless combo for the 1/24 TF2 - and for Orlandoo Hunter. I really want to try out that last one. Imagine how much better that would be than the n20 or n30 motors. Too bad they are so expensive though. :D I just finished my F150 Orlandoo Hunter the other day, and installed a 333rpm n30 motor in it. It was a bit of a dissapointment (cheap-ish aliexpress n30). Works worse than the original Orlandoo Hunter n20 motors I have in my other Orlandoo trucks. It runs ok, but low speed modulation is not great, and it has way less torque than I expected. The truck looks good though. th-cam.com/users/shortskWV3Tff1rPE
Did not know about the Furitek motors. Checked their website right now, could not find anything? However, they probably are very expensive, plus shipment, plus customs... super expensive for us (EU). For sure sounds interesting... but even if it works perfectly, it will not make the 1/24 TF2 a real good crawler. I sometimes really like to tinker and make my own thing like I did here. Nowadays people only buy, and buy, and buy... upgrade parts... and very few custom mods. I did also not have good luck with the cheap Ali N20 motors. 200 rpm and 300 rpm Orlandoo original motors are quite ok for me in my Orlandoos. In Orlandoos you do not expect high performance. F150 was my first (and the first) Orlandoo :-) Tried to "upbrade" it with (expensive) wheel weights, which were more a downgrade... Yours looks good!
@@donaldsneffe I saw one of the Furitek guys mention it on Facebook the other day, and again today on the WPL page. They have one for the TF2 and one for the Orlandoo Hunter stuff on the way, and apparently wanted to see if there was interest in a Furitek-system for the WPL trucks as well. It would be cool, but I'm not sure I'd sink that much money in a WPL brushless setup. For the Orlandoo though, that would be more likely. I'm a bit like that too, wanting to figure stuff out, rather than just buying bolt-on parts, at least in some cases. Right now I'm waiting for some parts for a frankenbuild, where I'll be trying to make a lcg SCX24/CR24/FCX24, mixing some spare parts from an SCX24, Injora LCG chassis rails, homemade high clearance brass link, axles from a CR24 that I pulled apart, and hopefully throw an FCX24 gearbox in the mix as well. We'll see how it goes. :D The F150 was the first one I bought, but the last one I finished. Built a Defender and a Jeep first. The Defender is stock, other than sliders, while the Jeep has a bunch of upgrades, and they do make quite a difference in my experience. Those two have 500 and 300 rpm n20 motors, and they work really well. There's obviously a difference in quality from those cheap Ali ones to the Orlandoo motors. For their size I think the Orlandoos are quite capable. The terrain I made is not easy, with large obstacles for their size, but they're able to do it. The F150 does some parts better than the two others, where long wheelbase is a plus, and poorer in others where the wheelbase gives it more of a disadvantage. :)
@@Br0rB I love Orlandoos, have all of them, some of them (Jeep, Pajero) twice. Still have to finish my Steyr Orlandoo Truck and even start the 6x6 (box waits for being opened for months already). The newer Tundra is really quite nice, I can recommend, and the trailer was the by far most difficult build ;-) (no. 2 Bouncer). To Furitek: I still have 3 ESCs and a Komodo (and other BL motors, Mofo, Surpass) here, tested, ... and changed back to brushed. Not totally true, my (stock) Deadbolt actually has the Mofo Nanobeast and a Lizard. But with this setup it cannot climb obstacles which it could climb in stock setup. Even did already film it for a MCCT, months ago, but probably will not publish it, with Komodo even worse, ... because people "love" the super expensive brushless setups and say I am a hater... - but brushed is IMO a better "feeling", more punchy (of course with the German ESCs) than BL, and better weight). Probably will use the brushless stuff finally in a super heavy full metal SCX24 with 3d printed body. Furitek is soooo super expensive to buy for us. In the US it is easier and way cheaper cause you can buy it from Amain.
@@donaldsneffe all of them, huh? That's awesome. I only have the three so far, but I really want more. With times being what they are, it's not something I can just run out and buy. They are getting quite expensive. Especially on banggood, where I tend to get mine. They also don't have as much orlandoo stuff as they used to. I really want one of the m0x trucks, preferably the 6x6, but it's around 140 euros, without electronics. I will be getting more eventually, for sure. They are a lot of fun to buld6, and drive. There is one crawler centric hobby shop here that sell them, but they are quite expensive, compared to getting them from banggood or asiatees. And they don't have a lot of parts for them. I did get a set of the 23mm shocks for about the same price as I would pay if I got them from asiatees though, so that was nice. We also have a couple of hobby shops here that sell Furitek stuff, and not that much more expensive than the list price on the Furitek website, so cheaper than ordering from Furitek myself. Basically only combos and electronics for Scx24 though, so if you want for mini z 4x4, Orlandoo and so on, it would have to come from abroad... At the moment I only run brushless in one truck, my 1/10th rgt EX86100 pro. Just a simple sensored 540 one with a non crawler hobbywing. I have been able to configure it so that it has nice slow crawl and plenty of torque though. I do agree that brushed works very well for most stuff. I installed a new brushed motor in my Scx24, but that was one of the ones you didn't prefer, the 66t injora/axspeed one. I find it to be better than stock, but to super smooth. Will be picking up the 50t from the post office tonight. If nothing else, it seems to have ample amounts of torque. Am also considering ordering some of the fms 050 motors you recommended. Having trouble finding the hobby plus ones.
@@Br0rB I buy most a ton from Banggood. The 6x6 is 127 € incl. VAT and shipping at Banggood, so using points and an allowance you'd pay around 100. But nearly everything got much more expensive at Banggood recently. When I bought it in August it was 115 and I paid (using the discounts) around 95. Still do not know why it is so much more expensive than the 4x4.
To use the Orlandoo shocks, you need to also buy some of the Orlandoo ball screws, which have the same threads as the RC4WD. Also, it looks like you used the 230 models; I used the 280s with just the long spring. The 280s are a little longer with much more travel, but with one spring you get sag (droop) for lower COG, about the same up-travel and much more down-travel. Articulation is far superior.
Hi, gutes Video👍... Ich habe vor kurzem erst den ST8 Multiple Servo Tester entdeckt. Den gibt es aber schon länger... vielleicht könntest du den mal präsentieren und ausprobieren, falls du den hast.
Weiterhin viel Spaß und danke für deine hilfreichen Tipps... 👌
Hi, danke.
Ich kenn das Ding, hab es nicht (hab aber das Toolkit Wattmeter), und wüßte nicht, was ich damit machen sollte. Das einzige, was dieser Tester kann im Vergleich zu den "billigen" Servotestern, ist Strom (Ampere) messen. Das kann/mach ich so auch bei den Servotests. Es kann nicht die Geschwindigkeit und die Zugkraft messen. Ob ein Servo ruhig läuft... etc. - dafür braucht man nicht so einen doch recht teuren Tester, dafür tut es ein 3 - 10 € Tester, genau so zum Einstellen (auf 0 etc.). Sonst kann das Ding ja nichts, außer "schön aussehen" und ein schönes Display haben. Irgendwelche Sbus, PWM oder PPM Frequenzen vom Empfänger zu testen... ja, eh, nur für was, wer braucht/verwendet das?
Ist ähnlich wie beim Toolkit WM150 Wattmeter (das aber deutlich billiger ist), schönes Display (viel zu klein um was ordentlich lesen zu können), aber praktischer Nutzen im Vergleich zu anderen Wattmetern (ich hab da noch so ein Hobbyking Ding)?
Das Wattmeter geht ja noch, aber dieser Servotester ist IMO fast "für nix", wenn man einen anderen, billigen Servotester hat und ein Labornetzgerät zur Stromversorgung und zum Ablesen der Ampere (und das geht sogar, hab ich auch gemacht, mit einem normalen Multimeter, wenn man sich Stecker/Kabel bastelt).
Außerdem kann dieser Servotester minimal 5 V, das heißt, man kann z.B. keine LV Servo (wie Orlandoo-Servos) testen.
Also ich werde den Tester sicher nicht kaufen.
Hier findest du ein bißchen was über den Tester: www.rockcrawler.de/thread/42087-toolkitrc-st8-servo-tester-und-wm150-wattmeter/?postID=1230963&highlight=toolkit#post1230963
Danke für deine Meinung... die is mir schon was wert und denn ist ein Test auch nicht unbedingt wichtig. 👌
Awesome!! Where can I purchase that esc here in the US. That battery is awesome and so small would like to get one. Great rebuild!! 🤘🏻🤘🏻 ROCK ON
No US distribution. You have to order it in Germany, guess it is even in stock actually, was sold out most of the time (high demand), www.modellbau-regler.de/shop/index.php?cPath=15 , shipping is about 8 bucks to US as far as I know (for me living in a neighbour coutry to Germany the same shipping costs).
The esc is amazing I got one then ordered 2 more. They take about 2 weeks to ship to the us. I had to check the website everyday for a week or two till they were in stock. It was worth it.
@@charlieshankles Now Modellbau-Regler.de could make 400 more, because they could get the parts (super difficult, processor, special Mosfet). First batch was only 200, second also only 200 because of parts shortage.
Now they should be in stock for some time.
Another great video, as usual. Using an n30 motor in a 24th scale (even a small 24th) is just silly, but then again, I haven't heard many good things about the tiny TF2. I mean, when it's delivered with an extra, stronger, motor in the box, that's not a great sign. I don't know if they still do that, but the videos I watched when it came out talked about the stronger motor replacement you got.
You should have waited just a little bit longer with your motor upgrade though, now that Furitek is coming out with a brushless combo for the 1/24 TF2 - and for Orlandoo Hunter. I really want to try out that last one. Imagine how much better that would be than the n20 or n30 motors. Too bad they are so expensive though. :D
I just finished my F150 Orlandoo Hunter the other day, and installed a 333rpm n30 motor in it. It was a bit of a dissapointment (cheap-ish aliexpress n30). Works worse than the original Orlandoo Hunter n20 motors I have in my other Orlandoo trucks. It runs ok, but low speed modulation is not great, and it has way less torque than I expected.
The truck looks good though. th-cam.com/users/shortskWV3Tff1rPE
Did not know about the Furitek motors. Checked their website right now, could not find anything?
However, they probably are very expensive, plus shipment, plus customs... super expensive for us (EU). For sure sounds interesting... but even if it works perfectly, it will not make the 1/24 TF2 a real good crawler.
I sometimes really like to tinker and make my own thing like I did here. Nowadays people only buy, and buy, and buy... upgrade parts... and very few custom mods.
I did also not have good luck with the cheap Ali N20 motors. 200 rpm and 300 rpm Orlandoo original motors are quite ok for me in my Orlandoos. In Orlandoos you do not expect high performance.
F150 was my first (and the first) Orlandoo :-) Tried to "upbrade" it with (expensive) wheel weights, which were more a downgrade... Yours looks good!
@@donaldsneffe I saw one of the Furitek guys mention it on Facebook the other day, and again today on the WPL page. They have one for the TF2 and one for the Orlandoo Hunter stuff on the way, and apparently wanted to see if there was interest in a Furitek-system for the WPL trucks as well. It would be cool, but I'm not sure I'd sink that much money in a WPL brushless setup. For the Orlandoo though, that would be more likely.
I'm a bit like that too, wanting to figure stuff out, rather than just buying bolt-on parts, at least in some cases. Right now I'm waiting for some parts for a frankenbuild, where I'll be trying to make a lcg SCX24/CR24/FCX24, mixing some spare parts from an SCX24, Injora LCG chassis rails, homemade high clearance brass link, axles from a CR24 that I pulled apart, and hopefully throw an FCX24 gearbox in the mix as well. We'll see how it goes. :D
The F150 was the first one I bought, but the last one I finished. Built a Defender and a Jeep first. The Defender is stock, other than sliders, while the Jeep has a bunch of upgrades, and they do make quite a difference in my experience. Those two have 500 and 300 rpm n20 motors, and they work really well. There's obviously a difference in quality from those cheap Ali ones to the Orlandoo motors. For their size I think the Orlandoos are quite capable. The terrain I made is not easy, with large obstacles for their size, but they're able to do it. The F150 does some parts better than the two others, where long wheelbase is a plus, and poorer in others where the wheelbase gives it more of a disadvantage. :)
@@Br0rB I love Orlandoos, have all of them, some of them (Jeep, Pajero) twice. Still have to finish my Steyr Orlandoo Truck and even start the 6x6 (box waits for being opened for months already). The newer Tundra is really quite nice, I can recommend, and the trailer was the by far most difficult build ;-) (no. 2 Bouncer).
To Furitek: I still have 3 ESCs and a Komodo (and other BL motors, Mofo, Surpass) here, tested, ... and changed back to brushed.
Not totally true, my (stock) Deadbolt actually has the Mofo Nanobeast and a Lizard. But with this setup it cannot climb obstacles which it could climb in stock setup. Even did already film it for a MCCT, months ago, but probably will not publish it, with Komodo even worse, ... because people "love" the super expensive brushless setups and say I am a hater... - but brushed is IMO a better "feeling", more punchy (of course with the German ESCs) than BL, and better weight). Probably will use the brushless stuff finally in a super heavy full metal SCX24 with 3d printed body.
Furitek is soooo super expensive to buy for us. In the US it is easier and way cheaper cause you can buy it from Amain.
@@donaldsneffe all of them, huh? That's awesome. I only have the three so far, but I really want more. With times being what they are, it's not something I can just run out and buy. They are getting quite expensive. Especially on banggood, where I tend to get mine. They also don't have as much orlandoo stuff as they used to.
I really want one of the m0x trucks, preferably the 6x6, but it's around 140 euros, without electronics.
I will be getting more eventually, for sure. They are a lot of fun to buld6, and drive.
There is one crawler centric hobby shop here that sell them, but they are quite expensive, compared to getting them from banggood or asiatees. And they don't have a lot of parts for them. I did get a set of the 23mm shocks for about the same price as I would pay if I got them from asiatees though, so that was nice.
We also have a couple of hobby shops here that sell Furitek stuff, and not that much more expensive than the list price on the Furitek website, so cheaper than ordering from Furitek myself. Basically only combos and electronics for Scx24 though, so if you want for mini z 4x4, Orlandoo and so on, it would have to come from abroad...
At the moment I only run brushless in one truck, my 1/10th rgt EX86100 pro. Just a simple sensored 540 one with a non crawler hobbywing. I have been able to configure it so that it has nice slow crawl and plenty of torque though.
I do agree that brushed works very well for most stuff. I installed a new brushed motor in my Scx24, but that was one of the ones you didn't prefer, the 66t injora/axspeed one. I find it to be better than stock, but to super smooth. Will be picking up the 50t from the post office tonight. If nothing else, it seems to have ample amounts of torque. Am also considering ordering some of the fms 050 motors you recommended. Having trouble finding the hobby plus ones.
@@Br0rB I buy most a ton from Banggood. The 6x6 is 127 € incl. VAT and shipping at Banggood, so using points and an allowance you'd pay around 100. But nearly everything got much more expensive at Banggood recently. When I bought it in August it was 115 and I paid (using the discounts) around 95. Still do not know why it is so much more expensive than the 4x4.