Can't believe what SLICK 50 did to my engine!!--Dry Crankcase Test!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ค. 2017
- In this video, I pre-treat one engine with SLICK 50 and then drain the oil and run both engines without any oil or additives in the crankcase. Which engine will "lock up" or seize first?
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Interesting note for you on this one - The formula for Slick 50 changed in the early 90s with the Quaker State acquisition of it. The original engineer actually sued them (Quaker State, then Penzoil, then Shell as the succession of owners of the brand) to make them quit using the original data and testimonials. The current formula (since the early 90's) that has none of the original formula at all. The original engineer actually sells the original formula under the name Xcelplus. It would be incredibly interesting to see a comparison of the two
Thanks for the video idea.
@@ProjectFarm be cool see an update video.
@@ProjectFarm yes, please follow up on this. I was also a believer and would love to see the comparison.
Does the current recipe have Teflon in it like the original?
@@bradsims1933 No according to Google
Lawn mowers must shudder when the realization hits them that they are going to
Project Farm
LOL! Thanks for commenting.
Oh that is so funny!
LOL
PETER PIPER good one!
It's like boxers fate in animal farm.
All the other animals were happy that he was being taken to the "hospital", then he just never came back.
I'm in SHOCK!!! Me and my husband worked on cars and resold them. We always sworn by slick 50!! WOW!! I have to do an oil change on my car and was talking about slick 50. My daughter fixes my car now my husband and sons passed on and I'm getting up there. Grandma in shock from ] PA!! Ty dude!
Thanks for sharing.
My father was the Service manager of a marina in the 70's and 80's. He used Slick 50 in the crankcase of the 4 stroke engines and the lower units on all outdrives. He kept meticulous records on the boats over years of use and claimed a $360 savings in average repair cost over the 100+ boats He maintained.
Two things that he did ( I believe are in the instructions) was to warm and shake the bottle before pouring it in the unit. The bottle is filled with mostly oil, the active ingredient settles to the bottom of the bottle. The heat of the engine is what help Slick 50 to adhere to surfaces.
Thanks for sharing.
It’s cool to see you still respond and interact with a video from over 3 years ago! Keep the good work up
Thanks, will do.
can tell it was 4 years ago. Thats a compliment. He's driven
This guy has a true passion for what he does. Best brand comparison channel on YT
He is a true Gentleman!
That's a person who REALLY appreciates his supporters. Instead of just saying that he appreciates his subscribers once in a while at the beginning of a video, he actually proves it. Protect Farm is, without question, one of the best content creators on TH-cam.
This is why I never lend out my stuff.
haahaaaa cough haha
😄
Smart man. My pressure washer started leaking at the hose base fitting. Darn threads were tapped too small, so they only threaded the hose fitting 1-1/2 threads deep into the pump, and it broke out when the threads rusted. Workers at the factory were probably told to just thread them in enough, and not to crack pump housings. Why would they possibly want to go to the effort to tap the pumps a bit and ship a properly manufactured product? I threaded it back in a bit further but it's still leaking, and I'm not going any further and cracking the pump housing. I'll get around to properly tapping the female pump threads or reducing the male threads on the fitting some day. Read about a guy online with the same pressure washer. Guy was pissed when he lent it to his bro-in-law, who cracked the pump trying to tighten the same fitting to stop a leak. I'd bet that's happened a number of times with the same machine, with people who have no concept that you can't just keep cranking tapered fittings into cast parts.
LOL Nice :)
@@og1ie LMAO
There is a product out there that sticks to parts like you were saying in this video. I know you know this already but alot of people don't. It's Zinc. Under high temperature, Zinc melts and coats the parts especially on a worn out engine. That's what's in high mileage oil. I know my answer is kind of obvious to people who "TRULY KNOW" mechanics. Keep up with the great videos. They are Amazing and very informative. It is truly an honor to have someone, like you, to make these videos. Thank you for your time with all of this.
Thanks and you are welcome!
I came across your channel within the last couple years. I commented here and there. I think you provide great service and the integrity with which you perform that service is unparalleled by any other testers I have seen. So bravo to you sir!
To answer your questions:
No I would not consider using slick 50.
Is there something better than slick 50? Yeah it's Called slicks 60 the 60 stands for 60 slick words that the sales people are using to try and get folks to buy their product.. OK, I just made that up.
I wish there was someway I could help you Help others.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
Have to tell you, I love the vacuum pump setup for removing the engine oil! I had to pause the movie to really look at that.
Thank you for the feedback!
i do the same thing with an empty windshield washer jug and a shop vac
I really like all of his testing set-ups. This one caught my attention as well... not making any mess while draining
I've got a pump the hooks up to my cordless drill. Works great. (I maintain 3 2011 Silverados, 1 Ford van, 1 gmc van, one dodge van, a Ford F550 dump truck and 2 tractors. I change the oil in all of them in about five hours with that "drill pump thing")
I, uh, may have screenshot it so I can copy it!
I absolutely love this channel it's honestly why I'm up past bedtime every night sometimes I watch videos many times, I love the attention to detail.
Wow, thank you!
Love the detail also.
me too
Bought Napa equivalent to Slick 50 and my low mileage, slraght 6yl chevy truck engine almost blew up. Just my experience, others might not had the same experience with the product.Thanks for the test, i remember the tv cammercial too
Thanks for sharing.
I used Slick 50 in my 1989 Ranger 2.3. At 110k the oil pickup in the pan broke clean off while on tbe interstate. I shut it down and took it to my mechanic/friend.
He called the next day and asked what oil I used. I told him Quaker State changed my oil but I used Slick 50.
The loss of oil pressure had spun a crank bearing but the cylinder walls still showed original crosshatch. He ground the crank and bolted it back together.
I drove it to 330k and sold it to the kid up the street in 2001. He is still driving it as a second vehicle with 495k and my mechanic/friend has used it since.
Worked well for me.
Thanks for sharing.
City of Calgary AB Canada tested Slick 50 in its buses many years ago. The test result showed that initial operation proved good, but after a period of time, the Teflon in Slick 50 would crystalize and start to break off becoming an abrasive. Methinks that's not a good thing.
Thank you for the feedback
There's silicone in Slick 50? I thought it was just extra-thick oil to improve the viscosity of old worn-out motor oil.
@@deusexaethera I might be wrong, it might be Teflon. But the results stand.
I'm pretty sure it's not silicone. Silicone will destroy O2 sensors.
@@TickleFingers: That might be why Slick 50 had to reformulate when fuel injection became common. I honestly have no idea, just speculating.
As a young engineer I was suckered into the Slick 50 advertising. During a trip across Australia in the early 70's, my car ran low on oil and with no shops in sight, I thought not a problem, the Slick 50 will look after me. Wrong, engine seized. Later I ended up in a senior leadership position working for Castrol and regularly visited their R&D facility in the UK. Very impressive, as are all the major lubricant manufacturers including Castrol's main competitor Mobil. Key take away from nearly 50 years of working with different lubricants, is don't tinker with what some very smart people have developed into their products. If the oil doesn't work for you, find the grade/mix that does and don't try to home brew a fix.
I enjoyed reading your post. Thanks for commenting.
Nothing is a miracle product, but i completly disagree, ive torn down many high milage diesel and petrol engines here in australia that i or others have personally serviced and used slick 50 with.
We tested it for on a fleet of taxis, and trucks identical models and engines all driven by a mixture of drivers day and night. And the almost perfect 50percent of the fleet that had the slick 50 in it every service had noticbly less wear upon major rebuild time. Again, its not a magic miracle additive, but its backed by some serious lab r&d. One of the benifits of them not working for a sole company like castrol, is they can work with multiple companies across mutliple brands and not have preferential treatment from oem manufactures etc influencing final product. ie its too expensive make it cheaper for us.
Interesting, I have just commented on how Castrol Magnatec oil appears to have improved the cold starting on my Isuzu Trooper, it's the 3.0 diesel 2003 model which I've owned for 10 years.
An engineer who runs his engine low on oil, seizes it and then eventually ends up in a 'senior leadership position' at an Oil company. Sounds about right for any one in management.
Technically, he did say he was a student at that time but I get your drift. Anyone who runs an engine low on oil should not be surprised at a failure.
Years ago I bought Slick 50 after being hooked by their ad, and always wondered if it really helped. So years later I now know thanks to Project Farm. And who said "A sucker is born every minute" was also proven correct today.
You are welcome!
Love the channel bub. Keep up the great work and you are by far the best comparison channel ever and the fact that you have no sponsors and use all your own money days alot about your channel. Look forward to more. Great job really impressed!!!
Thanks and you are welcome!
You do a great service man, I really appreciate the time, MONEY and effort you put into this. Thank you very much for sharing (this applies to every video you produce)
Thank you!
Caught my lawnmower and his buds watching this video in the shed last halloween by the way
lol. Nice!
S T O P ! It Stephen King for lawn mowers
@@nik_kot Are you SURE DUN DUNNNnn
Sean the commercial's years ago, as you said I had confidence in the product, added it to every thing I owned that needed oil. I never had anything lock up on me, but I checked my oil all the time. I take it back. In the early 70's I locked the engine on a 1966 VW Squareback Sedan station wagon. $500 to fix it ( Father-in-law bailed us out). But I haven't done it since!
I have been using "Duralube" for years now and swear by it. Very similar commercials years ago but I cannot afford to destroy engines to make a point or find out if it really works. My gas mileage increased 10% so I continue to use the product. I am impressed with all your comparisons and tests! They are well thought out and executed. Good information always!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
For what it is worth, in 1980 I tested the original Slick 50 by EAR in my well worn Ford F100, with 77,000 miles on the original engine. I tuned up the truck to perfection and changed the oil and filter, minus one quart of oil. The engine ran beautifully, a lovely liquid purrrrrrrrrrr. I ran it a while, then added the final quart of oil with the Slick 50 in it (after SHAKING THE CAN well as per instructions.) Within only seconds that purring engine went to a quiet HUMMMMMMMMM! I could hardly hear that the engine was even running! I ran that original engine with ordinary oil changes up to 180,000 miles and sold it to a friend. He ran that original engine to over 200,000 miles until I lost track of it. This is why Slick 50 has believers!...………………………...elsullo
They probably don’t make slick 50 like they used too now ?
Sounds like a lot can attributed to a observant person keeping up with regular oil changes. That alone can net you many, many miles over the average guy who will tend to "let it ride" every so often.
Its a Ford with regular oil changes. Im not saying slick 50 isnt good but what i am saying is that a ford truck will run for ever if treated right
I like how you turned that refrigerant vacuum in to way to suck out oil.
I need to put together a video on this. It's extremely handy for removing ATF is accidentally overfilling the transmission.
hahaha I didn't notice that. Just thought it was a mini compressor and was putting air into the case and blowing it out. Nice eye lol
potheads can identify.. works like a bong...
I want to see this conversion video. Do post a link. I use suction pump but those are small and slow for oil. Need a powerful one and i do have an exact similiar air vacum.
Blew my mind. At first I was like "Is he literally about to just suck that oil into his vacuum pump? You can do that??" Thankfully I saw his interesting jar attachment before i made any brash decisions.
More like 40 years ago the Slick 50 commercial was around lol. My dad used it and it was a good product. I worked in petroleum additive R&D for years and I am a big fan of synthetic lubricants over conventional lubricants.
I bet local used lawn mower prices are $25 higher than the norm because of this guy. Every time Project Farm comes up in my recommended videos, I watch one or two mowers die. Oh well, it's a small price for them to pay so the rest of us can be well informed about product quality.
but then he saves a few hundred by his research...
Thanks for sharing.
I remember that commercial. :-) Shows our age. LOL
lol. Yes it does! You've got a great channel! Thanks for checking out the video!
If it’s the same commercial I remember seeing, the oil pan was removed and they had a continuous water spray on the crank/connecting rods.
I don’t remember the commercial lasting for hours😂it was a stunt and I assumed it lasted less then one second longer than they filmed it running without oil.
damn I remember that commercial too, when he mentioned it, that brought back memories.
electronicsNmore Is that the commercial where they went to the desert and drove a Viper around a track until it ran out of gas while they took the cylinder heads off another engine running on a stand and dumped sand onto the exposed valve train?
I'd like to have seen the slick 50 engine run with just oil first and the temperatures measured. Then empty, add the slick 50 mix, run it and take temperatures. See if there would be a drop with the same engine.
The two engines might not run at the same temperature or dissipate heat differently.
Mr. Trustafox, Great point! I should have established a baseline for both engines! I'll do that next time. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Project Farm you really need to get two brand new identical engines and do baseline tests with them. but then most importantly run them both for a day straight with one having slick50 in it. because I'm sure I read that slick50 needs to be run in on the engine as over time it builds up a thin layer coating of a new compound that is where the real Val e of slick50 comes in I'm sure.
MrTrustafox, while we can't go back and do a control on these engines, it can easily be a test done on one engine to see a before and after to show that Slick 50 really does or doesn't lower the temperature. It can be a test by itself without a torture test.
In an automotive engine the teflon particles can plug up the oil filter but you won't notice unless you cut the filter in half. Used in a small rotary plane engine, the filter got plugged with PTFE at a higher colder temp and stalled the motor. The plane landed safely. The US military will not use PTFE in any internal combustion engine. FTC alleges that Slick 50 neither coats engine parts with a layer of PTFE nor meets military specifications for motor oil additives.Try Wynns, BG, Redline, or a High ZDDP oil like Driven or PennGrade 1 Green HP Oil
In 1994, I bought my first new vehicle. It was a 1994 Toyota pickup. It was stored all winter.
I towed a bass boat all over the country (eastern half). This was with a 4 cylinder engine.
I ran ONLY, straight 30 oil.
At 100,000 miles, I pulled the valve cover, to adjust the valves, and the engine looked absolutely brand new inside!
This can no longer be done, what with VVT screens and what not, but I couldn’t believe the power of a straight engine oil.
EXTREMELY low viscosity breakdown.
At 4k, it looked like I just put it in.
I miss old, reliable engines. 😔
Thanks for sharing.
This man does good tests and he's to be commended.
Thank you!
I do agree.
mindtouchone he needs to be put in line for sainthood
yes he does some great test. ive tried to watch all of them when possible.
that slick 50 power steering additive worked great on my old buick electra. no noise or leaks after 1st use. my car said ahhhhh thank you. 👈🏁
I remember those commercials when you can see the engine running without oil, But this results really surprised me. Good video thanks.
Thanks!
not the original formula from when they did those commercials.
was that the same commercial that they used a fire hose on a running engine ?
I remember one of those slick 50 ads using a 225 Chrysler engine, very deceptive. Those engines will run with a rod through the block for several hours... Can you try a similar experiment with LubeGuard?
I had a guy give me a tube of additive called CLM he said if I put a couple of table spoons of it with my oil change it would improve my gas mileage , I ran it in my 72 pinto that I would drive from Seattle to Bakersfield CA once a month it did improve my milage noticably , I ran across a small mud/rock slide on one of my trips we didn't have cell phones way back then and the oil pan was destroyed ,my buddy and I decided to drive the car as far as it would go hopefully to a rest area, it was late at night and we where in the mountains , we drove that pinto about 40 miles with the oil pan peeled open and the oil pickup dangling in mid air my brother came with a flat bed trailer and we hauled it home, put a new oil pan and pickup along with a exhaust pipe and that little car made many more trips between Seattle and Bakersfield. I lost the guys number for the CLM additive and never could find more but it really worked, I used the last bit of it a few years later I would buy some today if I knew where to get it anybody ever here of it
A post failure tear down would have been interesting. What caused the failure of the engines?
agreed!
Ain't got no oil in it mmm hmm
@@stevenbrisson343 I get that reference. Fine job.
Sounds like slick 50 just siezed the pistion against the cylinder. And the conventional started a wicked knock before failure, could both be siezed yes. Tho ima take a shot in the dark n say conventional one melted/ground down the races/bearings vs slick 50 which seems to have siezed on more of a low oil situation. Only way to test that without pulling em apart is to add oil, flip mover on its side, push on blade while hitting with a hammer "freed way to many siezed mowers with that trick" and see running condition after. Both will be on their way out, but I'd take a chance in saying slick 50 is in better internal condition
@@mrmagdump9085 Good idea. One or both engines might even run after cooling down, without even breaking them free, and I am very interested in condition after running dry as this is actually more important than time running dry.
My experience was with a 1979 Mustang 2.3 liter, with a religious 30K oil change.
So, after OVER 600K+ actual miles the original engine was still strong. Of course (FORD) the auto - over the next 15 years - it consumed more than 5 batteries, and 3 starters along with 2 alternators. Car engine with Slick 50 additive to the crankcase added x2 per year was still running well when the 2nd transmission ended its life. Impressed (to this day) with Slick 50. Period.
Doesn't matter to me whether people use it or not, there is just more for me!
Thanks for sharing.
Love your engine series. thanks for all the time you've spent testing for us. I appreciate it.
Spectt84, Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Yes thanks, you're the man!!!
I’m sorry I didn’t see your message yet but I’ll let you yeah mom I love you and you have a great nice day from being JASON
It’s great to see how much you’ve grown since this one. You started a great thing. Keep having fun!
Thank you! Will do!
Thank you for your fair and honest testing
You are welcome!
Back in 92 we ran 4 identical vehicles in the fleet , we added slick 50 to one to see if anything improved with heat & Mileage , nothing noticable in the one running Slick 50 so we never wasted the $$ again .
The SAE 30 engine was running slightly warmer during the initial testing because the hot exhaust from the Slick 30 engine was being expelled directly into the intake of the SAE 30 engine.
Good catch.. wonder if it really made a difference?
Avnett definitely would make a huge difference
source=im a.s.e. certified in engine rebuild/diagnostics
Great point! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Saw that too. Would have been a better comparison if BOTH were run on straight SAE 30 first. No way to know if the temps actually dropped with adding the slick 50.
w108jpw I came here to say exactly this!
Watching this in 2019. He's grow a lot since. But he still replies to individual comments, simply amazing!
Thank you very much!
@@ProjectFarm military grade integrity ;)
Wow! That is very surprising?, I have used slick 50 in the past and thought it was a good product.... like you I enjoyed the commercials and really liked the interactive sales display in the parts stores w/the gear drive comparison between slick 50 & regular oil.
Thanks for the all your information you provide. . Really like that you give each product a fair chance
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
I was part of the film crew for the Slick 50 commercials and what was never mentioned in the commercial is yes the oil was drained from all the motors however, the Slick 50 motor was the only one that did nor have the oil filter drained or removed
Thanks for sharing.
10W30 full synthetique. I've been using in my lawn mower tractor for more than 15years, and except topping the engine once in a while, never had problems..
Yep, agree.
I use 0w40 full synthetic (Mercedes formula) in my riding mower (B/S V-twin 22hp) and after 2 years oil is still golden. I also drop in a few ounces of Liqui-Moly anti-friction additive (looks like liquid graphite). No problems at all, good running engine.
Not sure about the "NEW" Slick 50. I used to use the slick 50 from 30+ years ago, and it was a treatment, not just an oil additive.
First thing that was done back then was to shake the can for a bit to suspend the material in the oil, as it was just a carrier of the actual product. Then after adding to a fresh oil change you had to use the motor for about 30 minutes to coat all the frictional surfaces.
Maybe the fact that Slick 50 called for 10%, and the test was done with 20% bared out in the result. More is not always better.
Yes. I believe the slick 50 still is a good product. If for no other reason than it did seem to reduce friction enough to cause the motor to run cooler = Longer Engine Life.
Great Video +++
Great test. This, as you already know, is not the classic or Original Slick 50 with the PTFE additive in it. The Original we all remember shaking the H out of the bottle, and you couldn't see through the oil. Now on the original commercial, the small engine only used the bottle of Slick 50 with nothing or more oil added. Then it was drained and ran for hours. The product you've used is the Slick 50 'Recharged' and you can see right through that stuff. When I was stationed in Alaska in the early '80s I ran Slick 50 in all my engines, awesome product. I had a friend that had a Ford 4X4 P/U and on the way to Fairbanks AK (he also ran Slick 50) his engine started making a strange rattling noise, all I could hear was what I thought was the rocker arms (maybe), so we pulled over to an auto parts store. No oil on the dipstick. Put a quart in, still nothing on the stick, another quart and nothing! A 3rd quart in and just barely on the tip of the stick, 4th quart and good. Started the truck and the noise was gone and No Damage to the engine. He was one lucky truck owner. Thank goodness he had used that Original Slick 50. And no... he wasn't trying to test how good the Slick 50 was. I'd love to have a case of the 1980's original Slick 50.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I bought a brand new 1993 Ford Bronco with the 351 Windsor motor. I did use Slick 50 after 1 year of buying the vehicle. I did change my oil around 5000 miles increments and would use slick 50 2 sometimes 3 in a years time. Vehicle got me 442000 miles of usage before it started to use oil. I still use it today and I think it does help engines last longer. It has also helped the camchatter in my 2018 ecoboost motor. Did not stop it but reduced some of the noise.
Thanks for sharing.
I’d say the slick 50 mower Had less run time then the other mower based on appearances and the mower with tighter clearances due to less wear will seize up before an Engine with lots of run time and loose bearing,piston to wall tolerances. i’m guessing that’s why the straight 30 wt Mower was able to run longer at much higher temps without welding it’s self together.The fact that the slick 50 engine ran cooler proves there was less friction. less heat=less friction less parasitic loss more efficient longer engine life. probably the only good way to do this test would be to buy two brand new engines break them in the same exact way and with same exact run time on each engine to rule out most of the variables you get on used engines. and then proceed. but that can be pretty expensive test. even then there are unknowns. The temperature test with the oil in the engines sold me on slick 50.
Thank you for the feedback
I agree with newer older motor theory.
I also would have like to see the newer engine operating temp with straight oil
@Joe Cool but the commercial showed an engine running dry after slick 50 treatment. He was just replicating what they said could be done with their product.
I agree. I don't think this was a very scientific experiment. Love project farm, but this one didn't make sense to me.
I put slick 50 in my car and once when the engine low oil light came on I immediately pulled over and my engine seized before I got to the side of the road.
Good luck.
Great video, and great website! You do a superb job using careful experimentation to establish or refute the often dubious claims that manufacturers make about their products. A real public service.
Thank you!
Actually, I was told during a "slick 50" demonstration at "Alderley Auto Toeing" many many years ago, it contained copper. And after the guy used an electric motor with a fixed bush on the end and a leaver to pull against it with normal oil in a tray under it and scratched up the bush. He then put slick 50 on it. Which filled in the scratches with something that did look like copper. With the normal oil I was able to stop the electric motor with the leaver. After slick 50, I lifted myself off the ground with the leaver and the motor didn't even slow down. At the time he claimed it was nano spheres of copper. My research below says it was soluble copper derivative. However he did go on about how the spheres were too small to get caught in the filter. For what's it worth, that is what I saw, heard, felt and experienced during the demonstration.
(In Tribology, the Garkunov effect is one of selective transfer of softer metals to harder metals. You need to explain the full tribological process in order to understand what's going on at the surface.
As the "copper indutstries" link above explains it's not nanoparticles of copper that are used in biosynthetic lubricants but oil soluble copper derivatives such as copper dihydrocarbyl thio- or dithio-phosphates, copper dithiocarboamates, copper sulphonates, carboxylates, and phenates.
The above are used as oxidation inhibitors for epoxidized vegetable oils.
I used to sell slick 50 as a small kid in the early 80's from my dad's auto parts store on the weekends. Old men with old cars used to buy slick 50, reflecting back probably used in the bedroom too!
Like someone else commented, Slick 50 is not the same as 25 years ago.You should do another test with Xcel Plus, the original formula.That would be interesting!
@Ab Ba From an engineering perspective, that isn't possible.
@@68404 - What a kill joy! Placebo effect?
It was always useless, rough lumps of PTFE do nothing to help, and can block important oilways.
Good point. I don't know how much zinc original Slick50 had in it, but zinc kills cats that's why modern oil has very little. Maybe modern Slick50 is the same?
Okay, I used slick 50 in a 1985 Ford F-150 small V-8. About a year after I treated the engine with Slick 50 I was driving between Lewisville TX and Carrollton TX started hearing a sound that I had never heard before. After driving about 6 - 7 miles at 70 mph I noticed that the oil pressure Guage was on ZERO. I quickly pulled onto the shoulder of the highway. Pulled out the dipstick to check the oil. It was full and pretty clean oil. Had it towed to a Ford dealer to have it checked out. I assumed the bearings would all be bad in the engine. They dropped the oil pan, pulled off a couple of main bearing caps and checked the main bearings. They were fine... NO DAMAGE. They pulled off some of the rod bearing caps and they checked out OK. NO DAMAGE. They discovered that the oil pump failed and locked up. The oil pump was driven by a steel shaft driven by a gear on the camshaft. When the oil pump locked up the steel shaft twisted off, and that was the noise I was hearing. They replaced the oil pump and the shaft, and buttoned up things. I drove that truck several more years with no engine problems. I believe the Slick 50 saved that engine.
Impressive! Thank you!
Wow is all I got
Look up whatever happened to slick 50... very interesting
Nah. Slick 50 was what killed your oil pump. LUCK is what saved your engine.
@@robertgantry2118 Agree 100%. No evidence here that Slick50 had any effect on saving the Ford engine. I remember driving a Honda about 20 miles to the junkyard with no oil pump. No problems.
I’m old enough to remember when Slick 50 first came out. I’m pretty sure that it was more than 25 years ago. Keep up the good work.
Here we see a young Project Farm in its natural habitat. Just kidding. I absolutely love every single one of your videos. Your testing has really help improve my purchases over the years. Every time I buy a tool I first check to see if you have a video on it. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do!
I rarely comment on videos due to peoples ignorance on here but you produce good content. Definitely subscribing!
Thank you very much!
it's people's, not peoples
case in point
I used the original slick 50 back in late 80's on my "89 camaro and the temp guage did read a lower temp. I can testify to that. 90k later the engine still ran like new. So it did something to reduce friction as the lower temp reading proved it.
Thanks for the feedback.
Interesting. Yes, I too, remember the commercial claims and people who swore by the product. The cooling factor of the Slick product may lead to extended engine life, as heat is a major factor relating to part durability over time. Thanks for all your testing
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
One observation. To give extra props to the engine with the SAE 30. The way the mowers were set up during the test... the exhaust from the slick50 motor was blowing directly at the intake, and the motor using the SAE 30. If anything I would think this factor should have given the Slick50 motor some advantage as the SAE 30 mower was breathing exhaust, and having hot air blown on it. This like aided in. Raising the temp on the SAE 30 motor to raise even faster... Had the motors been separated or positioned differently... The SAE 30 motor.may have run even longer...?
Love you channel! Please don't give into sponsorship like so many do... Im sure you have been approached...
Thumbs Up to Project Farm!
Thanks!
Prolong works great especially with high performance brushless motors, I've personally tested it on 45,000 rpm ducted fan jet motors, and have made test on the exact same engines with a substantial difference in the standard oil and the prolonged engines and have found it continues to work great without any seizure issues
Great feedback. Thank you
Yes try prolong!
In 1984 I was given an old Volvo that hadn’t ran in 5 years. I got it home and worked on it got it running, I had just received a box of prolong oil additives from the manufacturer I found an add in hot rod magazine looking for people to test prolong. The old Volvo had 105,000 miles on it I ran it up to operating temp pulled the plugs and ran a compression test and wrote the numbers down. Drains the oil added new along with the recommended amount of prolong. I drove it around for a few days to get some miles on the engine and the after I got it up to operating temp I pulled the plugs and ran a compression test to my surprise prolong actually did increase the compression in each cylinder by several pounds.
Try prolong
What I love most about this channel, you do things many of us only dream of doing.
Thank you very much!
Ikr??? It didn't cost me a penny to watch 2 Small Engines ruined right in front of my face do test something that I would question myself
I ran Slick 50 in a differential in the '90s. I was doing long commutes and had to replace the pinion seal every 6 months. After Slick 50, I ran over 2 years and never replaced that seal again. I never ran Slick 50 in the engine. The time from 1990 on was a period of great improvement in motor oils. My mileage went from 23 mpg to 28 mpg, and the only change I made was to better engine oil as it became available. Modern lubricants are miraculous.
Thanks for sharing.
Watching from Brisbane Australia. Love these videos. Always a thumbs up, thanks mate 👍🏼
Thanks and you are welcome!
You make the best videos. I could watch this stuff for hours. Thanks for all your time and effort!
Thank you!
I just found a brand new favorite channel! This is the kind of stuff I would have done and I would’ve got in trouble for back in the day!
ddoyle11 I just found this channel the other day. I really enjoy it. He does a great job keeping the test as fair as possible!
I had my doubts back when slick 50 came out and looked at it as a gimmick. I never did use that product and now i never will. You just proved my thinking.....its a gimmick. Someone out there got rich by folks buying the more expensive slick 50 thinking they are doing better for their equipment, when they weren't. Nice demo thank you for this I was always wondering about this. I've always used straight 30 in all my small engines . never had one lock up yet , but I don't trust Quaker state oil , I'm a Valvoline guy used it all my life as suggested by my late grandfather and its held up the test of time. I purchased a Chevy pick up back in the 80s , the owner stated he always used Quaker state oil. Soon after the engine locked up due to passages blocked with some waxy oil mostly under the valve covers , had to replace motor and used Valvoline ever since with no issues.
Thanks for the feedback.
If by chance you read this, I have subscribed for years now and think I watched this years ago and could remember the results. To tell you the truth, Lucas is the only oil additive that I know of that does the best. It's nothing more than 100% pure petroleum
Thanks for being a long time subscriber and viewer! Thanks for the feedback.
Worrying about mixing it up really good when the engine running would mix it up like a blender!
Sometimes the engine lasts longer because it runs cooler. The long term affect of hot engines may be a factor of longevity. Yes, both froze up, but in the long run, maybe your slick 50 kept your engines cooler and giving it more life over all. Also, how long did you run the engines before you drained it? Do you know how long the Slick 50 testers ran their engine before they drained it? Maybe if you ran your engines with the oils for an hour or so, maybe a 24 hour run, that would help the chemicals in the Slick 50 bond better to the metal parts making it last longer.
You people bustin on him for his scientific level are funny. He's only giving you a reference, he'd need a huge sample of new engines but I don't see any of you givin him any cash to do such. So, shut up. 😊
Thanks for the positive comment. I'm saving up for new engines, but can't afford to go through too many of them. Thanks again!
Yes, this is a regular guy doing an "intuive" test. This is not Consumer Reports. Many testing procedures done on YT lack thorough scientific prep, nonetheless entertaining and informative.
Project Farm You got it. I like your videos, they're still very organic, you're not bought off like so many on the Tube. Do what you can, have fun(cuz when you stop having fun we will too),and those of us that matter will keep watchin. 😊
Maybe you should create a funding page so we can all send you a few $$$. So you don't have to pay for the motors all by yourself.
couldn't of said it better myself 👍👍
Hey, love your videos, but i think your experiment for this video might just be flawed.The main benefits from using slick50 don't start showing up until after a somewhat long period of use. When its first used your suppose to basically skip an oil change to gain the best results. It works by Chemically bonding a protective layer to the surface of the metal, first by preparing the metal and then permacoating it. In your experiment, you did not run the motor for a long enough duration and temperature for the chemical process to occur . This might take hours and hours of operating time, but when the chemical reaction takes place, the motor will instantly run much more quiet, you will know when it happens.The dirtier the motor, the longer it takes to prep the surface. Another thing to consider is that the slick50 of today is not the same slick50 of the past due to a couple of law suits and patent infringements. The origional product is still currently available under the name Xcelplus, and the name slick50 today is just that, just a name on a product. But is it the product that John Bishop invented? FYI- I am not a mechanic, nor do i work for slick 50 or Xcelplus, just a nerd that cant spell.
Yep, 1984 was the year Slick 50 changed the formula. I remember it prior to that and it even looked different from the stuff they are using today. Frankly using Slick 50 now is kind of pointless as it is no different than regular oil.
I definitely agree with your comment. That wasn't enough time ran for the slick 50 to do what it is designed to do. As for the heat, slick 50 does what it says and the engine runs cooler. This demonstration even proves that. I would like to see this on 2 new identical motors and slick 50 time to do what it does. The motors in this video there was surely a difference in time they have been ran and how they were maintained. Flawed video for sure
Yes, something doesn't make sense. The Slick-50 engine wasn't even that hot.
Agree with all y'all!! I was shocked until I seen your comments!! Ty I will put a quart of it with 4 quarts of my regular oil when my daughter does my oil change.
does the now adays slick 50 work like that still?
Back in the 1980's I had a 1983 Ford F150. I treated it with Slick 50 as the directions told me. It was just one quart of slick 50 with 4 quarts of regular motor oil. About a year after treating the engine with slick 50, I was driving down I-35 toward Dallas. I heard a different sound from the engine, and probably drove about 5 minutes before noticing the oil pressure was zero. It was full of oil.
After having it towed to a Ford dealer and having the engine checked for damage I was told that the crankshaft, and rod bearings were not damages at all. The oil pump sized up and a hexagon shaped shaft that drove the oil pump from the camshaft had twisted off. They replaced the oil pump and the broken shaft, and I drove that truck for several more years with no problens.
Thanks for sharing.
I love the info you bring to so many, now subscribed! Thank You! God Bless!
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
See if you can revive the slick 50 engine by forcibly cranking it and adding oil back to it.
Then try to do the same to the regular plain oil engine.
See if the slick 50 simply made the engine slow down quicker with less damage.
DO IT!!!!!!
I think the slick 50 engine MIGHT BE REVIVABLE
It sounded much smoother when it died than when the regular plain-oil engine died.
Please try it!!!!!!!
realflow100 Even if he can free it up, it will be scrap. The only thing that slowed it down was metal on metal friction against the bearings..which will now be worn so badly it will knock like crazy
I agree...both engines are ruined. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Did you try to dummy-crank the engine just to see what would happen?
I've seen a lot of "seized" lawnmowers start up after they've cooled down and continue running for a good while. sometimes even right after it seized it was able to be started back up.
it might just of need to cool down on the slick 50 one from piston expansion causing it to press so tightly on the cylinder walls that it seized temporarily. you never know. it could be completely free when you try to crank it. as if nothing was wrong. or it could be locked solid.. about 50/50 chance of either to be honest.
Good thoughts. BUT it still stopped sooner, for what it's worth.
realflow100 b
I know that it died way faster (which was surprising) but what was even more surprising to me was to see the Slick50 engine running 150+ degrees cooler! There's something impressive going on either way. Assuming it is the Teflon in the Slick50.
Thanks for the feedback.
I agree. If it was running cooler it shouldn't have locked up first.
@jjano2320 if ever there was a project farm test that deserved to be revisited it would be this one
I agree. And just out of curiosity I wonder what the difference in the internal engine damage was.
@@jjano2320 No, it's the opposite, with a high heat the iron block was expanding while the aluminum piston wasn't, resulting in less friction. That's why it was able to run longer, even though the engine may be more damaged as a result.
I had a Geo with 2 recalls that I was NOT notified about. It was over 5 years later that I found out the first recall was missing a bolt on one of the pistons and the other was on TWO pistons. I had a Slick 50 added to my oil change very shortly after purchasing my car. I was the first owner. I'm going to go with Slick 50 is a team player and works with the oil. The mechanic who looked at my motor was impressed.
Thanks for sharing.
I use Amsoil 5/30 in my 04 Yukon Xl 5.3 429;000 so far. Made a believer out of me. Signature series.
Impressive! That's a lot of miles
I use Amsoil in my Harley. Tests I've seen show it outperforms Slick 50. Test results can easily be manipulated but I have not had any problems with it. Never had any with any additive I have used.
I use whatever is cheapest in my 2000 5.3. It leaks pretty good, so when it starts valve ticking, I throw another quart of grocery store brand oil in. 410,000 miles.
Your new videos have gotten so much better! Keep up the great work.
Thank you very much!
I really appreciate the time and effort you put into all of your videos, thank you
You are welcome!
@@ProjectFarm Years ago I used a snake oil additive called Bitron. It did show improvement after two applications with regular oil but none with full synthetic in my vehicle.
My father used to use slick 50 all the time in the 90's then stopped using it after they either changed their formula or where it was manufactured. I can't remember which one. Now it's just techron and seafoam when needed. Our 96 Cherokee still runs like a champ
Thanks for sharing.
@@ProjectFarm thank you for all the awesome videos!!
I have a 1990 chevy truck, 305 with over 220,000 miles. Second owner. I knew first owner, used to change the oil in all his vehicles wheni was 16 every 3k miles, so i knew it would be a great truck. 26 years later, still driving it.
Went to tow a friends ford ranger on a heavy homebuilt trailer about 20 miles, let him drive cause no tag on tlr, and i wasnt going to get that on my cdl.
When we unhooked tlr, i noticed engine light on. Rear main seal had a slow leak for last few years, just kept it topped off. It was dry!
I hadnt driven it in a while as i had been on the road.
Duralube saved that engine.
Wow! Impressive!
2 potential issues with the test. First, it looked like you got almost all of the oil out of the SLICK 50 engine and you only got 80% of the oil out of the other engine; having 20% oil is better than 0% oil. Second, SLICK 50 is supposed to have an initial application period that was 5000 miles for cars, which is probably around 200 hours; unless you did that in the lawnmowers, the teflon didn't actually get applied to the engine.
I used SLICK 50 for a long time in one car; I don't know how it affected engine wear but it did improve gas mileage by 1-2 mpg.
Thank you for the feedback
@@ProjectFarm Based on the information in the video shared by Glo Right a few weeks ago, the current "Slick 50" product is not the original formula for which we recall those engines running after being drained. That original formula is now sold under the brand Xcelplus.
@@jebucha your correct! My friends dad buys it in the original formula 5 gallons at a time from a guy who has a bunch of drums he's been hoarding. He says whatever they took out made the new stuff garbage.
Slick 50 requires repeated run cycles to build up and deposit it's proprietary anti friction surface. Run an engine for 20 hours on Slick, Then repeat the tests.
Another great video. It would be interesting to see the same test done with synthetic oils like Mobile 1 vs conventional oil ..
Thanks for the suggestion.
Amsoil especially !!!!!
Mobil 1 vs amsoil!
Better yet Mobil 1 vs amsoil vs conventional oil!! Do that! Much controversy in the field
@@ProjectFarm i'm currious about DT 550 friction reduces out of missouri
I really appreciate the time and effort you put into all of your videos
Thanks and you are welcome!
Yes, me too! Thanks for these experiments! Especially the one with the WD-40, PB-Blaster, Liquid Wrench test!👍
Wouldn't you want to run both on regular oil first to establish a baseline, in case of temperature differences between the engines without additional variables?
My thought exactly. Also, since they both look used who knows the difference in run time on each engine.
He has changed his testing techniques substantially since this video. But yeah I totally agree I was like wait did he not run baselines with just oil 😝
I raced cars for 12 years and always used 25% Lucas oil stabilizer. I never had an engine failure. That would be a good "oil" to test. Thanks much for a great video.
Thank you!
You have raced and have not had an engine failure in 12 years, you obviously have not heavily tuned the engine because anybody that has raced for 12 years with a highly tuned engine is going to have an engine once awhile.
Yes try the Lucas Oil Treatment
John L what part of engine oil is unstable and requires an “oil stabilizer”
A fool and his money are soon parted.
Lucas oil stabilizer is nothing but a non additized bright single grade gear lube.
Using it does nothing other than dilute the additive package science has deemed beneficial and thickens the sump load.
If you want thicker oil just buy a heavier grade. Lucas is utter garbage.
Everett Morash now you know you could have said all that without being a douche, right?
You video's have certainly improved over the years with camera placement and how you conduct the experiments. 😁 I really enjoy you video's
Thanks so much!
Thanks for the quick reply! My take away is slick 50 runs cooler less friction so if your keep the engine or what it’s attached to for a long time perhaps it pays off
It doesnt pay off. It is useless and even damaging .
First, I really enjoy your channel. Thank you! Second, I saw independent reviews on "Bestline engine treatment" and was sold on it. I added a small amount into a Toro that leaked oil but ran well. The day I added it, about 20 minutes into mowing my lawn, the engine started revving faster and faster....then...locked up. I was hoping to help the mower last longer but destroyed it instead. Next test you do on engine lubricants, please include Bestline.
A small amount of any additive isn't going to make your rev faster and faster. The carb blade would HAVE to open more in order for the engine to rev faster.
Slick 50 engine running about 100 degrees cooler yet only lasted about 1/3 as long.........Something seems odd there.
Thank you
I too find the temperature variant perplexing considering the outcome. Though both mowers seem alike, there is no way that two used motors could be alike internally. While using two new motors seems too costly, perhaps two refurbished engines, where preexisting damage could be noted and repaired, or at least be certain that one engine didn't have a notable disadvantage at the outset.
I think there was a cylinder wall blemish, or a broken ring,or a blockage perhaps. As well, the warm up time, with the additive in place and prior to draining, could be extended to as much as three tanks of fuel, which at normal rpm should last three hours.(This would give the Slick-50 time to fill micro pits and cracks, and to bake a thin coating on the moving parts.)
But a very good and thoughtful test. You do a great service with these videos. Thanks 👍
Doesn't Slick 50 patent to claim it leaves a teflon coating? If that cures properly I could see even on a microscopic level heat exchange would change a great deal, but probably with the oil retaining that missing heat because it can't release it into the case. It has to go somewhere.
That isn’t the most accurate way to read temp. If you noticed that when the engine is walking across the floor the temp goes up and down by 200 deg as the temp gun scans across the head
@@HolidayArt fair point.
The tear down would be interesting to see.
The dino juice engine may have worn longer causing it to seize later.
The lower running temp does say a lot for Slick 50 though.
The engines I saw them running all that time ago were slant 6 Chrysler engines. Dad said they, like a model T engine, had so many oil dams in the block that they restrained some oil and it slowly trickled down and kept the engine oiled for some time. The engine we saw was never ran at long intervals, but minutes at a time, and it would be a good gopher smoking machine it burned so much oil. Probably been twenty ish years since I've seen that display. In the meantime a friend of my mothers swore that STP treatment was far superior to Slick 50.
When some dealers were selling Ford Model T cars, that's a similar stunt. They'd drain the oil and replace the plug. After yacking for some time spreading the bull, the rest of the oil made it to the pan so it could hit the splashers and lube the engine.
Great video as usual.
Thanks!
I love these types of tests. Slick50, when they first came out was a good product. Probably the best at its inception but fast forward several years later, they are the equivalent of most products on the store shelves with numerous ones outperforming them. Restore did the same and while I still use them at times, they are not as good as they were. Seems like when they introduce a product, it's a super high-quality performance level producer and after establishing a clientele, they incrementally sell a weaker product while charging more. Great test.
Btw, where both these engines apples to apples condition? Compression? Rpm? Etc.
Me and my buddy Chuck did this experiment on car engines back in the 80's when we were both ASE certified mechanics. With the same result, you got. The Slick 50 engine seized after two laps around the shops parking lot. Disappinting after wacthing their miracle commercials.
Thanks for commenting on this!
I remember those Slick50 adds too! A great experiment and a very surprising outcome. Keep up the good work :-)
Thanks, will do!
Thanks for the video. Militec should work a lot better under dry conditions (I did a timken test on it before pouring it into my engine).
In your video, Slick 50 seized up first probably this is because the teflon that is coated in between moving parts not only repels residual oil, but also expands, making engine clearance even tighter. However, with base oil available, Slick 50 should synergize.
The newer formula Slick 50 that he used does NOT contain PTFE Teflon. FACTS MATTER!
Slick 50 used to have a full page ad in Popular Mechanics and sold for $39.95. I contacted the dealer that put the ad in the magazine and got a wholesale price for the product and purchased 20 cases making me a dealer of Slick 50 (this was back in the mid eighties). Carburetors were still being used in cars. After adding Slick 50 to and engine the rpm of the engine would go up by about 30-50 at idle. We would adjust the idle screw to bring it back to specs (thus saving fuel). The problem was, when we changed the oil again using Slick 50, the rpm would go up again at idle. We couldn’t turn the idle screw down anymore without turning off the fuel. So the idle always ran faster making it hard to change gears (which ruined the engine). Now this might have been fixed when fuel injection replaced carburetors, but I stopped selling Slick 50 and Jiffy Lube started selling it at my purchase price.
Thanks for sharing.
I really like this guy, he put out some really good content. My wife and I love this guy's videos we watch everyone he uploads. Keep it up man, now this is some TH-cam. God bless you and your family from mine to yours
Thank you for the feedback!
Prolong will do what your trying to show with engine oil drained out there's a video of motor with no pan or valve covers running and they even pour sand in the heads while it runs they even show bearings on a press treated with all brands of oil and prolong all the bearings sized up before Prolong check it out I use it and its saved me many times
I just recently discovered your channel and I love it! I know I'm late to the game, but I would live to see you test the Prolong engine additive. Keep up the good work! Cheers!
Welcome! Thanks for the video idea.
Hi I have a story to tell regarding this product, I have a 1995 Mitsubishi Pajero Junior which engine was burning a litre oil at every 1000 kms, I saw your video 1 year before, I was confused but decided to give this product a try so I purchased this product and the description of this product says that it revitilizez the seals and compatible with 10w30 so I did my oil change with Liqui Moly 10w30 grade oil with slick 50 believe me or not this product really works, My mitsubishi stopped burning oil 1 year before when I started to put this treatment my car had 180 k miles on it and now it has 225k miles and it does'nt burn any oil infact it has improved the fuel economy from 6-8 and proved to be a life saving product for my engine and then after two years I decided to put this product in my toyota harrier 3.0 with an oil change I can really feel the diffrence with much more power with better fuel economy now I can confidently say that this product really works satisfied with it 😍
Thanks for sharing!
I started using Slick 50 in my 1985 Honda hatchback when I lived in Arizona. It definitely ran cooler according to the engine temp. gauge. Always good when the ambient temp. is above 100°F!
Thanks for sharing.
I remember that old infomercial! Love your channel bud!
Thanks!
different slick50, the original had teflon in it and was a gray looking liquid
Thank you!
I used the original back in 1990. It was gray and thick. I remember it have very specific use requirements. Immediately drive at highway speeds for 30 miles, something like that. Also remember there stories going around that it clogged oil filters because the size of the Teflon particles. Among the motor heads I hung out with at the time, the general consensus was to change your oil/filter after the first 50 miles, the idea being that the Teflon would have bonded to the moving parts by then, and your filter was now running in bypass due to it being clogged. Absolutely zero science was used to support that, it's just what made sense to us at the time.
@@ProjectFarm The old Slick Fifty was a different formula than what is available now. There were legal issues when the company was sold. The only place that I know of where you can still get the original is Australia
Absolutely spot on. I always used the original stuff and never had a scrap of bother with lubricated surfaces with any of my engines. The only problem that I ever had was a broken valve spring which neither I or my local engine restorer had ever seen. My engines were still running like new long after the bodies returned to mother earth. The stuff you are using is nothing like the stuff I used.
@@lifequest7453 I tried to find a distributor for bishops original and their is no U.S. distribution ?
The old slick 50 advertisements used to spray water on the engines. They even had the valve covers off for dramatic effect, however in reality it allowed direct access to the engine internals.
This actually cooled and lubed (although not very well, but way better than metal on metal) making the engines last much longer in the commercials, thus surviving the demo in the show.
I had to laugh at the big blow torch they showed, heating a metal plate (ie heat shield) in front of the engine.
Wynns Friction Proofing, now long gone for a couple of decades now, was an amazing product. It looks like a new formula has returned. Not sure if its any good or not.
Seen engines with the old stuff added, needing the idle screw turned out a few moments later, as the engine was spinning that much freeer...
I belive the old stuff was a bunch of zddp zinc and some other additives. But zddp, as much of an amazing lubricant addive it is, isn't catalytic converter compatible...
I (certified aircraft mechanic since 1984) unknowingly ran a 2.0 liter Ford Escort engine dry of oil (the indicator light failed) for well over 100 miles. Try that with an engine which doesn't have PTFE resin treatment in it. Dramatically cheaper than using Lucas & only needs the treatment every 50,000 miles. I use PTFE resin because in Oshkosh (1988) I've seen an aircraft treated with Slick 50, drained of oil, then flown around the pattern (take off, crosswind, downwind, base & final. I treat every 4 stroke engine (with a dry clutch) with PTFE resin & would have it no other way. It's proven itself to me.
Thanks for the feedback.