Thanks for the tip on those battery nuts! They drive me crazy, too and, yes, I've lost several when they fell out and went somewhere in the engine area! Glad to see the Super Cub back out on the road!
Thanks for watching and leaving feedback! It's awesome that you're thinking of starting your channel. Just remember to record video every chance you get. You can't produce videos without the raw content, so that's the first step. Video editing is a time vampire, and it's difficult to start out if you don't have previous editing experience. Editing is an iterative process, and practice is the only thing that will build your experience. You'll get better (and faster) at it with more practice. Cheers, and good luck! 😉👍 --QM
I'm with you on the battery cover . I've replaced it with a heavy rubber strap held jin place with the original Allen key bolts. The frustration with Honda cub battery fault is an insane issue considering all Honda needed to do is disc brakes cosmetic tweeks and leave it with a key and kick start keeping the Honda cub the ultra reliable ibike it always was.
I don't have a Super Cub, but I have a few other bikes with hard-to-access batteries. Your Electrical tape trick is a great hack, I'm going to do that next time. What I've done to date is jam a small piece of rag behind the nut, then pull it out with needlenose pliers once the screws are engaged. I like the tape idea better, because it can just stay there. One thing I do that might be helpful for you: I have a super-cheap ratchet strap that came from WalMart or something. It's really thin and cheezy. Before I put a battery in a bike, I cut a piece of it off and wrap it around the battery, and tie it off in a bow on the top. It stays in place when the battery is in. That gives me something I can easily grab with my fingers to lift and manipulate the battery.
Hi Quasi, you should make a video on how to remove and install the battery. I think I will be changing mine soon as it starting to struggle on cold starts.
Nice Video. Very good idea with the tape "Hack" I wouldnt have thought about this before and then spending hrs findig the nut down in the plastic intestines of the Cob. Thank you for sharing👍
Happy new year & thank you for another excellent video. I had to replace a faulty battery on my Super Cub & had the same experience! No slack on the wiring, ridiculous routing of the loom & components. All this after managing to break a couple of tabs on the battery bodywork cover just get at the battery (& I was being very careful)! Very badly designed- style over function!!
Funny I had the same problem when I changed out my Bat on the Super Cub. To get the Bat out and in was difficult but I figured it out and you just have to tilt it in a certain way. Additionally, to connect the BAT in some replacement BAT'S there will be a small piece of foam and I always wondered what it was for. Well you know what they say read read read the DIRECTIONS--well after an hour of the nuts falling out the side of the terminal I read the directions and low and behold, bingo, the foam was for placing inside the terminal to push the nut out so the screw would be able to bite into the nut. Live and learn
Interesting! I don't think that I've received any batteries that had foam spacers for the terminal nuts. These Fire Power batteries come with large foam blocks to use as spacers below or behind the battery to fill up extra space when needed. The fitments on my Honda's haven't needed those spacers, but my Yamaha C3 scooter and the XT250 both needed the spacer blocks. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Rim leaks might be the cause if it’s tubeless. I have had tires leaks only when moving. I found a paint chip caused the leak. Took off tire lightly sanded rim, cleaned tire and then used contact cement with no more issues.
Honda should have a factory Tender connection on the battery. My wife battery on hers went dead and I had a hell of a time taking off the cover. I finally did then installed a battery tender connection like what I have on my Harley Street Glide. I ran the cable right under the seat along the bottom edge (so I can have access to it if the battery goes dead again) otherwise you can't get it because the button for the seat won't work.
Yep, that "smart key" system is a bit of a pain when the battery goes flat. I found it curious that my Trail 125 (CT125) can run without a battery at all (not to mention that it has a kick start), but the Super Cub (C125) can't run without a battery or a dead one. I wonder what Honda changed in the ignition or ECU that allows the CT125 to run without a battery. 🤷♂️ I installed a battery tender lead on my Super Cub a long time ago ( th-cam.com/video/k1ri2ZEX9JI/w-d-xo.html ), but the little 7.5A fuse blew when I accidentally tried to start the bike while attached to a charger. I never got back into that battery compartment to replace the fuse before the battery croaked again. I was able to push start the bike a couple of times when the battery was weak, but totally flat was a different story. The outer cover (body center cover) and the inner battery tray are a real pain to access without cussing and breaking tabs. I have a beefy 20A fuse in that tender lead now... hopefully it will withstand a little more abuse before giving up. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I addressed this issue when installing a trickle charge wiring harness. It is fused and was routed from the right helmet hook past the seat hinge and down to the battery. Charge plug has a port cover. Blutooth sensor is always looking for the key fob. I have had it discharge the bike so I keep trickle on when not riding. It has been 3yrs with no issue.
I did the same thing shortly after I got my Cub. Unfortunately, I was quick-charging my Cub a while back, and I forgot to disconnect the charger when I started it. The amperage draw from the starter blew the little 7.5A fuse, so I didn't have a way to charge unless I dug into that battery compartment again. 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for the info. I gave up with the battery cover and left it off. I might look into replacing it with a strap or something, but it’s a right pain in the a#$e to fit especially with the battery charger pigtails in there.
All of the lithium batteries that I've installed have been charged to at least 75%, and they were able to start the bike without any problem. It's not a bad idea to top-up the battery before installing if you have a trickle charger. One benefit of the newer LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) is that they charge very quickly in comparison to older lithium-ion or lead-acid batteries. If the battery is weak from sitting too long or had a parasitic draw on it (e.g., USB charger or alarm system), it will probably charge to full capacity within just a few minutes of running the engine. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for watching and leaving feedback! Those are the CRG Hindsight LS (lane-splitter folding) mirrors. You can watch the installation video here: th-cam.com/video/CS1vyNmvzmg/w-d-xo.html Part numbers and links to the CRG mirrors: Qty 1: CRG Hindsight left mirror (Part number: HSLS-200-L) : amzn.to/2SihYzt Qty 1: CRG Hindsight right mirror (Part number: HSLS-200-R) : amzn.to/36qYjp7 Qty 2: CRG bar-end adapter (Part number: 0641-0013): amzn.to/2HJcgo2 That video was recorded in the early days of the Super Cub here in the USA, so the shop manuals and the easy hacks weren't available to us trailblazers. I eventually figured out a faster way to remove the bar weights after a few tries on other bikes: - remove the end weight and then screw the bolt back in about 1/2" - grab the screw with a pair of channel-lock pliers or vice-grips - use a hammer to strike the pliers outward (away from the bike) This will bend/break the little tabs from the ends of the bar weight clips so you can pull the weights out of the bars (those ring clips aren't reused anyway). Remove the clips from the end of the weights, then thread the bar weight onto the end of the bar-end adapter's screw. The bar-end adapter and the OEM bar weights worked perfectly for my Cub. You can see the process in a follow-up video here: th-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/w-d-xo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I think this video shows the battery can be replaced without any special procedures, procedures such as "teaching" the keyfob immobiliser to recognise the motorcycle after fitting and connecting the new battery. Is that correct? The timeclock and the miles or / km setting for distance , does they reset to null after the battery change?
That's correct... the smart key and other features are unaffected during a battery swap (or a dead battery). The clock can be reset easily using the single button on the gauge face. The battery replacement isn't terribly difficult, but it's tedious working in small confined space. The outer battery cover is very tight, and the locking tabs can be broken off of the panel of you're not very careful during removal. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Howdy, Sam! Yep, these little bikes have stators/alternators just like most motorcycles. The Super Cub's charging capacity is only 180W at 5000 RPM, so that needs to power the ECU, fuel pump, lighting, and also charge the (dead) battery. I thought this jump start test was interesting in comparison to the Trail Cub because it will run without a battery at all! I wonder how Honda changed the electrical system to make the CT125 different. 🤔 --QM
Seem to be a lot of things on the Cub that are very difficult to remove without swearing or damage. The guys that designed it should be made to disassemble and reassemble one until they are really sorry.
Don't forget the obligatory written apology on the blackboard, "I promise that I won't practice poor engineering without appropriate forethought"... 1000 times! 🤣👍 --QM
🤣 That involves lots of swearing, screaming, and head scratching! The single Philips screw comes out easily enough, but the tension tabs around the sides of that center panel are a pain to release...without breaking anything, that is. You can watch this video for a close-up view of that process: th-cam.com/video/k1ri2ZEX9JI/w-d-xo.html . I broke one of the tabs on the side of that cover, so watch out for that. I've found that it's best to pull forward on that panel (toward the handlebars) and NOT UPWARD to prevent breaking the tabs. Removing the inner battery cover is also tricky because the battery terminals must be removed before that cover can be released. The cover is held in place by two screws on opposite corners, the battery cables, and also by the fuse block... it's a Rubik's Cube. Good luck! 😉👍 --QM
If you're referring to the internal black plastic cover, then yes... it secures the battery and prevents it from banging around in the compartment. I thought about leaving it out, but l didn't want to risk damaging anything in there from the impact vibrations. 😉👍 --QM
I own a 22 year model. You are not kidding about the battery being a pain in the butt. It should’ve been more accessible . I love the bike but the battery placement makes me want to get shut.
The "mini-motos" channel was originally "super-cubs", but we had a lot of requests to include other mini-motos. Maybe I should revert that name and create other channels for Groms and Monkeys? 😉👍 --QM
It was probably an excellent idea not to remove power from the jumper pack. That practice worked on older stuff, but ECM'S/ECU'S don't like that much at all.
Great channel, btw. I just found you this afternoon. I'm a retired auto and heavy equipment mechanic with a boat load of old motorcycles that I plan on getting back on the road someday. I'm in no hurry...just doing a little bit at a time when the mood hits me. But the idea of riding a small bike like my 82 Honda Passport across the US is an intriguing idea, indeed.
Nearly 15k miles... man I haven't even gotten mine above 300 miles yet. I barely ride it, lol. Beginning to wonder how long I can go on the original oil it came with before it needs to be changed simply for being old at this point.
You could probably reinstall without the top cover (black plastic tray), but it helps to retain several other pieces in the battery compartment. The fuse box and the OEM diagnostic leads attach to that cover, so they would rattle and bounce around without it. 😉👍 --QM
Agreed! Honda could have done a better job designing the battery cover (external and internal). I installed a battery tender lead shortly after getting the bike, but that's only useful if you remember to connect a trickle charger during storage. Those SAE leads are protected by small fuses (usually 5-7A), so they can't be used for jump starting... that fuse pops instantly. I might make a heavy-duty battery lead with a standard SAE connector that can be used for both purposes. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for the tip on those battery nuts! They drive me crazy, too and, yes, I've lost several when they fell out and went somewhere in the engine area! Glad to see the Super Cub back out on the road!
super glue them in place
Very useful, thank you. I'm saving Super Cub videos that may help when I collect my new Cub early next year.
I know these bikes are not for everyone, but I love them. Thank you for inspiring me to start my own channel. 🙏
Thanks for watching and leaving feedback! It's awesome that you're thinking of starting your channel. Just remember to record video every chance you get. You can't produce videos without the raw content, so that's the first step.
Video editing is a time vampire, and it's difficult to start out if you don't have previous editing experience. Editing is an iterative process, and practice is the only thing that will build your experience. You'll get better (and faster) at it with more practice. Cheers, and good luck! 😉👍 --QM
I'm with you on the battery cover . I've replaced it with a heavy rubber strap held jin place with the original Allen key bolts. The frustration with Honda cub battery fault is an insane issue considering all Honda needed to do is disc brakes cosmetic tweeks and leave it with a key and kick start keeping the Honda cub the ultra reliable ibike it always was.
I don't have a Super Cub, but I have a few other bikes with hard-to-access batteries. Your Electrical tape trick is a great hack, I'm going to do that next time. What I've done to date is jam a small piece of rag behind the nut, then pull it out with needlenose pliers once the screws are engaged. I like the tape idea better, because it can just stay there. One thing I do that might be helpful for you: I have a super-cheap ratchet strap that came from WalMart or something. It's really thin and cheezy. Before I put a battery in a bike, I cut a piece of it off and wrap it around the battery, and tie it off in a bow on the top. It stays in place when the battery is in. That gives me something I can easily grab with my fingers to lift and manipulate the battery.
Good to know a battery replacement that will save pounds. I will need it someday on my 2020 super cub. Thanks
I replace my battery two times already the third battery I put in Fire Power CTX14 FA now work fine now! Mr. Aaron
Hi Quasi, you should make a video on how to remove and install the battery. I think I will be changing mine soon as it starting to struggle on cold starts.
I have a 2021 hunter cub. Can confirm it runs without a battery. I ran it like that for a week & was fine
Nice Video. Very good idea with the tape "Hack" I wouldnt have thought about this before and then spending hrs findig the nut down in the plastic intestines of the Cob. Thank you for sharing👍
Happy new year & thank you for another excellent video. I had to replace a faulty battery on my Super Cub & had the same experience! No slack on the wiring, ridiculous routing of the loom & components. All this after managing to break a couple of tabs on the battery bodywork cover just get at the battery (& I was being very careful)! Very badly designed- style over function!!
Funny I had the same problem when I changed out my Bat on the Super Cub. To get the Bat out and in was difficult but I figured it out and you just have to tilt it in a certain way. Additionally, to connect the BAT in some replacement BAT'S there will be a small piece of foam and I always wondered what it was for. Well you know what they say read read read the DIRECTIONS--well after an hour of the nuts falling out the side of the terminal I read the directions and low and behold, bingo, the foam was for placing inside the terminal to push the nut out so the screw would be able to bite into the nut. Live and learn
Interesting! I don't think that I've received any batteries that had foam spacers for the terminal nuts. These Fire Power batteries come with large foam blocks to use as spacers below or behind the battery to fill up extra space when needed. The fitments on my Honda's haven't needed those spacers, but my Yamaha C3 scooter and the XT250 both needed the spacer blocks. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Rim leaks might be the cause if it’s tubeless. I have had tires leaks only when moving. I found a paint chip caused the leak. Took off tire lightly sanded rim, cleaned tire and then used contact cement with no more issues.
Honda should have a factory Tender connection on the battery. My wife battery on hers went dead and I had a hell of a time taking off the cover. I finally did then installed a battery tender connection like what I have on my Harley Street Glide. I ran the cable right under the seat along the bottom edge (so I can have access to it if the battery goes dead again) otherwise you can't get it because the button for the seat won't work.
Yep, that "smart key" system is a bit of a pain when the battery goes flat. I found it curious that my Trail 125 (CT125) can run without a battery at all (not to mention that it has a kick start), but the Super Cub (C125) can't run without a battery or a dead one. I wonder what Honda changed in the ignition or ECU that allows the CT125 to run without a battery. 🤷♂️
I installed a battery tender lead on my Super Cub a long time ago ( th-cam.com/video/k1ri2ZEX9JI/w-d-xo.html ), but the little 7.5A fuse blew when I accidentally tried to start the bike while attached to a charger. I never got back into that battery compartment to replace the fuse before the battery croaked again. I was able to push start the bike a couple of times when the battery was weak, but totally flat was a different story.
The outer cover (body center cover) and the inner battery tray are a real pain to access without cussing and breaking tabs. I have a beefy 20A fuse in that tender lead now... hopefully it will withstand a little more abuse before giving up. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I addressed this issue when installing a trickle charge wiring harness. It is fused and was routed from the right helmet hook past the seat hinge and down to the battery. Charge plug has a port cover. Blutooth sensor is always looking for the key fob. I have had it discharge the bike so I keep trickle on when not riding. It has been 3yrs with no issue.
I did the same thing shortly after I got my Cub. Unfortunately, I was quick-charging my Cub a while back, and I forgot to disconnect the charger when I started it. The amperage draw from the starter blew the little 7.5A fuse, so I didn't have a way to charge unless I dug into that battery compartment again. 😉👍 --QM
Have had very mixed results with YUSA batteries. Got one directly from a dealer that was dead as a doornail and would not take a charge.
Thanks for the info. I gave up with the battery cover and left it off. I might look into replacing it with a strap or something, but it’s a right pain in the a#$e to fit especially with the battery charger pigtails in there.
When you get the lithium battery, do you have to charge it full before installing? Or just install it straight?
All of the lithium batteries that I've installed have been charged to at least 75%, and they were able to start the bike without any problem. It's not a bad idea to top-up the battery before installing if you have a trickle charger. One benefit of the newer LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) is that they charge very quickly in comparison to older lithium-ion or lead-acid batteries. If the battery is weak from sitting too long or had a parasitic draw on it (e.g., USB charger or alarm system), it will probably charge to full capacity within just a few minutes of running the engine. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
thanks for the video! what mirrors are those by chance? I want to replace the stock ones.
Thanks for watching and leaving feedback! Those are the CRG Hindsight LS (lane-splitter folding) mirrors. You can watch the installation video here: th-cam.com/video/CS1vyNmvzmg/w-d-xo.html
Part numbers and links to the CRG mirrors:
Qty 1: CRG Hindsight left mirror (Part number: HSLS-200-L) : amzn.to/2SihYzt
Qty 1: CRG Hindsight right mirror (Part number: HSLS-200-R) : amzn.to/36qYjp7
Qty 2: CRG bar-end adapter (Part number: 0641-0013): amzn.to/2HJcgo2
That video was recorded in the early days of the Super Cub here in the USA, so the shop manuals and the easy hacks weren't available to us trailblazers. I eventually figured out a faster way to remove the bar weights after a few tries on other bikes:
- remove the end weight and then screw the bolt back in about 1/2"
- grab the screw with a pair of channel-lock pliers or vice-grips
- use a hammer to strike the pliers outward (away from the bike)
This will bend/break the little tabs from the ends of the bar weight clips so you can pull the weights out of the bars (those ring clips aren't reused anyway). Remove the clips from the end of the weights, then thread the bar weight onto the end of the bar-end adapter's screw. The bar-end adapter and the OEM bar weights worked perfectly for my Cub. You can see the process in a follow-up video here: th-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/w-d-xo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Thanks again for great video! QM
I think this video shows the battery can be replaced without any special procedures, procedures such as "teaching" the keyfob immobiliser to recognise the motorcycle after fitting and connecting the new battery. Is that correct?
The timeclock and the miles or / km setting for distance , does they reset to null after the battery change?
That's correct... the smart key and other features are unaffected during a battery swap (or a dead battery). The clock can be reset easily using the single button on the gauge face.
The battery replacement isn't terribly difficult, but it's tedious working in small confined space. The outer battery cover is very tight, and the locking tabs can be broken off of the panel of you're not very careful during removal. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Do these have a stator? I had a feeling you’re not supposed to run these with a dead battery. I need one too in my cub ! Take care good tip!!
Howdy, Sam! Yep, these little bikes have stators/alternators just like most motorcycles. The Super Cub's charging capacity is only 180W at 5000 RPM, so that needs to power the ECU, fuel pump, lighting, and also charge the (dead) battery.
I thought this jump start test was interesting in comparison to the Trail Cub because it will run without a battery at all! I wonder how Honda changed the electrical system to make the CT125 different. 🤔 --QM
Seem to be a lot of things on the Cub that are very difficult to remove without swearing or damage. The guys that designed it should be made to disassemble and reassemble one until they are really sorry.
Don't forget the obligatory written apology on the blackboard, "I promise that I won't practice poor engineering without appropriate forethought"... 1000 times! 🤣👍 --QM
Your video starts with the cover panel already removed. How do you get that cover off in the first place!!
🤣 That involves lots of swearing, screaming, and head scratching! The single Philips screw comes out easily enough, but the tension tabs around the sides of that center panel are a pain to release...without breaking anything, that is.
You can watch this video for a close-up view of that process: th-cam.com/video/k1ri2ZEX9JI/w-d-xo.html . I broke one of the tabs on the side of that cover, so watch out for that. I've found that it's best to pull forward on that panel (toward the handlebars) and NOT UPWARD to prevent breaking the tabs.
Removing the inner battery cover is also tricky because the battery terminals must be removed before that cover can be released. The cover is held in place by two screws on opposite corners, the battery cables, and also by the fuse block... it's a Rubik's Cube. Good luck! 😉👍 --QM
Do you need to put that battery cover back on? Cause seems like a pain in the ass and I dont want to put it back in
If you're referring to the internal black plastic cover, then yes... it secures the battery and prevents it from banging around in the compartment. I thought about leaving it out, but l didn't want to risk damaging anything in there from the impact vibrations. 😉👍 --QM
I own a 22 year model. You are not kidding about the battery being a pain in the butt.
It should’ve been more accessible . I love the bike but the battery placement makes me want to get shut.
Is there a discord text channel for Super Cubs?
The "mini-motos" channel was originally "super-cubs", but we had a lot of requests to include other mini-motos. Maybe I should revert that name and create other channels for Groms and Monkeys? 😉👍 --QM
It was probably an excellent idea not to remove power from the jumper pack. That practice worked on older stuff, but ECM'S/ECU'S don't like that much at all.
Great channel, btw. I just found you this afternoon. I'm a retired auto and heavy equipment mechanic with a boat load of old motorcycles that I plan on getting back on the road someday. I'm in no hurry...just doing a little bit at a time when the mood hits me. But the idea of riding a small bike like my 82 Honda Passport across the US is an intriguing idea, indeed.
I
Nearly 15k miles... man I haven't even gotten mine above 300 miles yet. I barely ride it, lol. Beginning to wonder how long I can go on the original oil it came with before it needs to be changed simply for being old at this point.
in 2 years I only have 2300 miles.
7 months and I’m at 1700
Hi Quasi, can't I just install the battery without the black plastic cover? Thanks.
You could probably reinstall without the top cover (black plastic tray), but it helps to retain several other pieces in the battery compartment. The fuse box and the OEM diagnostic leads attach to that cover, so they would rattle and bounce around without it. 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotardThanks👍👍👍
I don't get why the battery is such a pain to get to. It's the most common thing to fail or need access to jump or trickle charge.
Agreed! Honda could have done a better job designing the battery cover (external and internal).
I installed a battery tender lead shortly after getting the bike, but that's only useful if you remember to connect a trickle charger during storage. Those SAE leads are protected by small fuses (usually 5-7A), so they can't be used for jump starting... that fuse pops instantly. I might make a heavy-duty battery lead with a standard SAE connector that can be used for both purposes. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
And when you put a rack on the cub that's has to come off first to get to the battery compartment
They should design a battery like an SD card on a phone that slots in and out dead easy
That's true of most center racks, but my fuel carrier rack doesn't obscure the battery cover. 😉👍 --QM