Thanks for posting this Tony and many thanks to Stephen for videoing how he extracted this value. I am about to undertake this very job on my Stag so it is great to be forewarned about what to expect before I start.
Disconnect it, you don't need it. Some cars baffle air so it won't go through core when on cold. Some cars turn off a tap to turn off the hot water. The Stag tries to do both. When I got mine, the little lever to the tap was disconnected. The tap was turned on all the time. My heaters worked perfectly. Hot opened air baffle = hot air to footwell or demist, turn to cold, baffles air/doesn't go through core = cool air on feet/demist. But no, I wasn't having that!!!!!!!! Book said tap should turn off. Now, as I said above, it was working perfectly, but I wanted it to be "as it should.." . So, I pulled out tap. Replaced O rings, (greased them) got the lever that links to "Hot/Cold" control and hooked it up. ...................and it made it very hard to move the lever. I used different O rings and that made it a bit easier, but still heavy to move. Then sometimes, (because load on cable) the end of the cable outer would jump out of it's keeper/holder, and is a bugger to get to. So, I removed the link, making sure tap was in full on posn, went back to just "baffle control. " Out of the 30 years I have had the car, it has been that way 90% of the time. It's perfect. So the only difference is "hot water in core while air on cold", and you cannot feel the difference. Half the cars in the world do that, ie don't have a tap. My Chrysler 300C does that - NO TAP. If you can feel any warmth of the air when on cold, either cables or baffles aren't adjusted properly. I have driven my car in arguably as hot temps as anyone will, and honestly, to me the tap on/off just isn't needed. Mine works perfectly with the tap stuck in the "always on" posn. Keeping it simple.
Nice idea - we'll look at that. Currently we turn ours to hotter in Winter and colder in Summer (manually adjusting the valve twice a year!). All the best and thanks for posting. TR T
Hi Ian - yes it can..it's just a bit of a fiddle, it being right up under the dash over the tip of your left foot! I have a diagram for a puller if you want one, just pm me on thetriumphstag73@gmail.com All the best TR T
My heater control valve is leakin all over the carpets! I've tried getting the valve body out of the housing without any luck.Do you know where I can get one of those extractors shown on the accompanying video.Car off the road now.Many thanks.
Hi David - please get in touch thetriumphstag73@gmail.com and I can point you in the right direction. They're not manufactured but I do know one or two people who have one. Incidentally, the bolt holding the front indicators on are exactly the thread needed for the centre of the valve (might help you pull it out easier?). Get in touch and I'll give you more. Kind regards TR T
Extractor??? I have never had one, but easy to make one. Either put the centre screw in with a washer, then a screwdriver either side against the housing = lever up. Or if you don't like that, put a ring around the housing lip, washer over centre screw, do up screw = pulls out. The centre valve is just a fluted/cross bored cylinder, once the actuator lever is off it pulls out, because the "hook under" tab on the actuator is all that holds it in. When I got mine, it didn't have that actuator, so luckily mine was stuck in, because without that "tuck under" retainer, if it were lubed, as soon as warmed up/pressure builds, it would have popped out. So I made the "tuck under" retainer. Mine isn't connected, so core is always on, but baffle turns of air flow through core, so don't need it. (See blurb above).
excellent vid,
Thanks for posting this Tony and many thanks to Stephen for videoing how he extracted this value. I am about to undertake this very job on my Stag so it is great to be forewarned about what to expect before I start.
Disconnect it, you don't need it.
Some cars baffle air so it won't go through core when on cold. Some cars turn off a tap to turn off the hot water. The Stag tries to do both.
When I got mine, the little lever to the tap was disconnected. The tap was turned on all the time.
My heaters worked perfectly. Hot opened air baffle = hot air to footwell or demist, turn to cold, baffles air/doesn't go through core = cool air on feet/demist.
But no, I wasn't having that!!!!!!!! Book said tap should turn off. Now, as I said above, it was working perfectly, but I wanted it to be "as it should.." .
So, I pulled out tap. Replaced O rings, (greased them) got the lever that links to "Hot/Cold" control and hooked it up. ...................and it made it very hard to move the lever. I used different O rings and that made it a bit easier, but still heavy to move. Then sometimes, (because load on cable) the end of the cable outer would jump out of it's keeper/holder, and is a bugger to get to.
So, I removed the link, making sure tap was in full on posn, went back to just "baffle control. " Out of the 30 years I have had the car, it has been that way 90% of the time.
It's perfect. So the only difference is "hot water in core while air on cold", and you cannot feel the difference. Half the cars in the world do that, ie don't have a tap. My Chrysler 300C does that - NO TAP.
If you can feel any warmth of the air when on cold, either cables or baffles aren't adjusted properly.
I have driven my car in arguably as hot temps as anyone will, and honestly, to me the tap on/off just isn't needed.
Mine works perfectly with the tap stuck in the "always on" posn.
Keeping it simple.
Nice idea - we'll look at that. Currently we turn ours to hotter in Winter and colder in Summer (manually adjusting the valve twice a year!). All the best and thanks for posting. TR T
Hi Tony great video his that the Red Ensign you have on the wall behind you?
Can it be removed with the heater still in the car
Hi Ian - yes it can..it's just a bit of a fiddle, it being right up under the dash over the tip of your left foot! I have a diagram for a puller if you want one, just pm me on thetriumphstag73@gmail.com All the best TR T
My heater control valve is leakin all over the carpets! I've tried getting the valve body out of the housing without any luck.Do you know where I can get one of those extractors shown on the accompanying video.Car off the road now.Many thanks.
Hi David - please get in touch thetriumphstag73@gmail.com and I can point you in the right direction. They're not manufactured but I do know one or two people who have one. Incidentally, the bolt holding the front indicators on are exactly the thread needed for the centre of the valve (might help you pull it out easier?). Get in touch and I'll give you more. Kind regards TR T
Extractor??? I have never had one, but easy to make one. Either put the centre screw in with a washer, then a screwdriver either side against the housing = lever up. Or if you don't like that, put a ring around the housing lip, washer over centre screw, do up screw = pulls out. The centre valve is just a fluted/cross bored cylinder, once the actuator lever is off it pulls out, because the "hook under" tab on the actuator is all that holds it in.
When I got mine, it didn't have that actuator, so luckily mine was stuck in, because without that "tuck under" retainer, if it were lubed, as soon as warmed up/pressure builds, it would have popped out. So I made the "tuck under" retainer. Mine isn't connected, so core is always on, but baffle turns of air flow through core, so don't need it.
(See blurb above).