Late VK's had Borg Warner 78 diffs (same as VL's) but with 25 spline.. A simple upgrade is using VN 28 spline axles. The long VN axle can be shortened and resplined and then a drop in fit to the VK BW78. I've done this upgrade on my late 85 VK Calais.
Get yourselves some lengths of heat resistant flexible exhaust tubing so you can run it outside when your working. It will save your eyes and your lungs.
Late VK's had Borg Warner diffs, and they are all 25 spline. The Borg Warner diffs fitted to the VL's have the pumpkin offset 30mm future across compared to VK's and the axle lengths are different to a VL 's . The VL Turbo cars and the 5.0 litre V8 cars have 28 splines , and all the others are 25 splines
Some of the best 2 Idiot's in a shed going around I reckon . ❤❤❤ Also consider upgrading the Diff Hat, they make ones for the VL Turbos that provide additional support for the bolts that hold in the Bearing Caps.
Guys you need to disable the vaccumm advance on the distributor when checking the base timing then reconnect the vaccum hose to distributor before driving 5 litre Holden v8 Base timing is set at 8-10 degrees without vaccum line on distributor Then with vaccum line on it should go to 12-14 degrees timing
usually the vacuum is actually for low load and low rpm and as the load increases it will drop off how much advance as the mechanical kicks in instead.
So crazy too see how far you guys have come in such a short time, the new shed has so much room for activitys, keep doing you guys and keep up the good shit 👍 🍻
Doing diffs is definitely can of worms I had the wrong gearset from the wrong series and my trutrac centre had the wrong end cap fun and games when modifying cars hahaha
Hot start issues on Carby are usually due to heat transfer from the engine after it has been turned off, you can get insulator blocks to help with this.
I know with the b&m line lockers if you want the front brakes to still move but lock the back brakes off you run the locker on the rear brakes but run locker reverse to what instructions say if that makes sense so the out becomes the in
didn't see it on the video but did you disconnect the vacuum lead to the vacuum advance before you set the timing just checking it may or may not affect the initial timing, often does on holdens , Cheers PS: the vaccume advance unit on the disy points like a arrow to witch way to turn for advance
Having a bad Vac Advance would have definitely made it a bit of a pig to start. A thought however In my old cars that were made to run on Super I found a pretty good way to compensate for 91 and make them always run a whole lot better. I have fitted MSD boxes to stuff ranging from a Flathead Morris to my old 245 Valiant and always been happy with the results. The Valiant in particular I chased a poor idle and ignition miss for ages and never really managed to rectify it properly. I started with a points ignition and fully refreshed it from condesor to ballast resistor, no luck. Swapped over to a Chrysler electronic style it still happened, removed that and fitted a later model Holden ignition module it still ran a bit funny. Finally Fitted a Basic MSD Street fire ignition box and it idled smoothly for the first time since I had owned it. It also allowed me to retard the timing slightly to prevent pinking with no loss in power. For a high performance build I probably wouldn't use that particular unit maybe go for a 6a or something similar but it worked Flawlessly. I was also able to retain the standard dizzy cap for a stock appearance as well that you usually dont with a high energy system.
What do you mean does anyone have some monos? You so! It's a shame that VK only has stock falcon wheels on it. Yup, that's the way it came in for sure.
Hey fellas with the exhaust "leak" we put a coke can on the inside and hose clamped it so light didn't shine through in case the cops pull up behind you 😉
Gilmer belt drive = oh, no. Bogan spec. Does NOTHING. FFS go back to vee belts or do a serpentine convo. Toothed belts are only good for MASSIVE drag engines. On street stuff, mostly it's a massive wank. Or should I say, a tiny wank for tiny organs. Just pointless bling. That ought to ruffle some peacock feathers. And looking at the sludge... the reluctor plate will give off varying dwell, as I'll bet the bushes on the shaft are flogged.
Always makes me chuikcle how Holden took the Opel/Vauxhall vehicles and made them look uglier with the front grills and bumpers they had made for the Holden version. Just cracks me up.
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_6lZ6b3_7Vo/mqdefault.jpg)
The tools 😮 soooo many tools 😵💫
VL V8s also came with 28 spline axles.
How good Michelle....😅😅😅😅😂😂😂😂
Late VK's had Borg Warner 78 diffs (same as VL's) but with 25 spline..
A simple upgrade is using VN 28 spline axles. The long VN axle can be shortened and resplined and then a drop in fit to the VK BW78.
I've done this upgrade on my late 85 VK Calais.
how much did shortening the axle cost you by chance?
I had the Harrop truetrack installed into my Chrysler with 28 spline curry billet axles and also a ratio change up to 3:45.
Vast improvement
Easy Peasy Lemon Squeezey was what I think you were going to say. And the Momo's on the ute look killer!
Last of the VK’s in 1985 had the Borg Warner final drive with the 3.23:1 ratio. Just a thought.
Get yourselves some lengths of heat resistant flexible exhaust tubing so you can run it outside when your working. It will save your eyes and your lungs.
Late VK's had Borg Warner diffs, and they are all 25 spline.
The Borg Warner diffs fitted to the VL's have the pumpkin offset 30mm future across compared to VK's and the axle lengths are different to a VL 's .
The VL Turbo cars and the 5.0 litre V8 cars have 28 splines , and all the others are 25 splines
0:41sec
Summernats this year ?
Summernats next year 🤣
Some of the best 2 Idiot's in a shed going around I reckon . ❤❤❤ Also consider upgrading the Diff Hat, they make ones for the VL Turbos that provide additional support for the bolts that hold in the Bearing Caps.
It’s basically a stock 5.0, a braced hat is overkill unless it’s putting down 800+ rwhp
Good video guys, and the first job started in the Hactory .
✌️ Peace
Guys you need to disable the vaccumm advance on the distributor when checking the base timing then reconnect the vaccum hose to distributor before driving
5 litre Holden v8
Base timing is set at
8-10 degrees without vaccum line on distributor
Then with vaccum line on it should go to 12-14 degrees timing
Not with ported vacuum even though it’s listed in the holden service manual.
@@stevenkirk2563 that’s how you set base timing with every car that has a vacuum advance distributor
usually the vacuum is actually for low load and low rpm and as the load increases it will drop off how much advance as the mechanical kicks in instead.
Looking forward to catching you guys at summernats!
A vid full of rad cars and all i can think is damn nath's daily is clean
You 2 have so much fun. I love it.
You guys think the dizzy in the VK is hard, try doing it in a VT. Believe me, the struggle is real.
Vs ute lol struggled but easy way round it
Great episode guys, and looking at that oil I'm looking forward to the rebuild 👍
So crazy too see how far you guys have come in such a short time, the new shed has so much room for activitys, keep doing you guys and keep up the good shit 👍 🍻
Doing diffs is definitely can of worms I had the wrong gearset from the wrong series and my trutrac centre had the wrong end cap fun and games when modifying cars hahaha
Momos on falcon... yeah bud😉
Hot start issues on Carby are usually due to heat transfer from the engine after it has been turned off, you can get insulator blocks to help with this.
I run the same line lock set up on my 6litre vs Ute and it has no issue laying down some thick burnouts
Willwood make a proper brake cut off solenoid... when that doesn't work grab one of those.
I know with the b&m line lockers if you want the front brakes to still move but lock the back brakes off you run the locker on the rear brakes but run locker reverse to what instructions say if that makes sense so the out becomes the in
Nathan get the star wheels but with a little more dish on them
didn't see it on the video but did you disconnect the vacuum lead to the vacuum advance before you set the timing just checking it may or may not affect the initial timing, often does on holdens , Cheers PS: the vaccume advance unit on the disy points like a arrow to witch way to turn for advance
Is the rare spare distributor the same as a Rae distributor.
Looking at getting one with the bosch module
Momo all the way
On this episode of Two Idiots In A Shed......ROFL!!
Cam needs Momos!
love this vk make me wanna get off my ass and work on my vk project
Ezy sqezy lemon sqezy 😂
Summernats
Please make some more content on the gemini
If that’s what the dizzy drive looks like, then I wonder how the valve train and oil pump looks #canofworms 😂
Good excuse to upgrade to an injected 5 litre
Throw the new Chinese dissy in the bin, can’t beat the original Bosch dissy. Take the Bosch one to performance ignition and they’ll sort it for you
100%
24:56 two idiots in a shed 😄
I always feel dirty, undoing left-hand threaded bolts.
Having a bad Vac Advance would have definitely made it a bit of a pig to start. A thought however In my old cars that were made to run on Super I found a pretty good way to compensate for 91 and make them always run a whole lot better. I have fitted MSD boxes to stuff ranging from a Flathead Morris to my old 245 Valiant and always been happy with the results. The Valiant in particular I chased a poor idle and ignition miss for ages and never really managed to rectify it properly. I started with a points ignition and fully refreshed it from condesor to ballast resistor, no luck. Swapped over to a Chrysler electronic style it still happened, removed that and fitted a later model Holden ignition module it still ran a bit funny. Finally Fitted a Basic MSD Street fire ignition box and it idled smoothly for the first time since I had owned it. It also allowed me to retard the timing slightly to prevent pinking with no loss in power. For a high performance build I probably wouldn't use that particular unit maybe go for a 6a or something similar but it worked Flawlessly. I was also able to retain the standard dizzy cap for a stock appearance as well that you usually dont with a high energy system.
Vac advance has nothing to do with starting, unless is manifold vacuum which is incorrect.
@@stevenkirk2563 If they don't kick off straight away they do generate some vac and that can affect timing. Without vac it wont get fuel.
Aren’t ya sposed to lock the front brakes on, rather than the rears off?
I think Nath has already made up his mind about the wheels.
You need Momo's on the ute mate
Love the fake pipe at rear there gunna know, how will they know
What do you mean does anyone have some monos?
You so!
It's a shame that VK only has stock falcon wheels on it.
Yup, that's the way it came in for sure.
If the dizzy looked like that, DO NOT take off the rocker covers.. MOSES SANDELS!
Hey fellas with the exhaust "leak" we put a coke can on the inside and hose clamped it so light didn't shine through in case the cops pull up behind you 😉
Buy The Momos mate.......
How tight is finger tight when you're thanos?
Gilmer belt drive = oh, no. Bogan spec. Does NOTHING. FFS go back to vee belts or do a serpentine convo. Toothed belts are only good for MASSIVE drag engines. On street stuff, mostly it's a massive wank. Or should I say, a tiny wank for tiny organs. Just pointless bling. That ought to ruffle some peacock feathers. And looking at the sludge... the reluctor plate will give off varying dwell, as I'll bet the bushes on the shaft are flogged.
Always makes me chuikcle how Holden took the Opel/Vauxhall vehicles and made them look uglier with the front grills and bumpers they had made for the Holden version. Just cracks me up.