Dental Acrylic might be even more easy solution. th-cam.com/video/a4URAxj6oz0/w-d-xo.html Check other Paul Budzik videos on all his channels, good source of orthodoxal modelling knowledge. Stretched sprues is okay if you master making them even thickness on long lengths, I never succeeded. Panel lines tend to be uneven due to molding process and mold form degradation. Besides, sprue must be fully melted to fill trenches. I fill holes with sanded or filed sprue dust in layers, goo pressed hard into surface with steel chisel facet. After filing and lapping it is completely uniform, so it is usable for fixing unpainted colored plastic models. As for panel lines on kits... They are always overscaled. True method is filling them completely, primer or paint the surfaces in dark color, then needed body color, and when the paint dries - cut the lines with scalpel until underlying color appears. Cutting depth makes line width as needed, the deeper - the wider. Very fine sandpaper will polish all flat and nice.
Hi buddy, I have seen this video from Paul. And after some research I found this method too expensive and not easy to do because of that secret acrylic component :) Even if you have it, then filling panel lines with that will produce much less accurate result before sanding and then you have more sanding work (most time-consuming step in the process). If you need help on stretched sprues, let me know. My 8-year son is master in this. We managed to make over 2 meters - long lines. I have many after our training exercises and ready to share ;) And as for overscaling panel lines. I agree. But modeling is always compromise between reality, art, skills and approach. :)
@@Volsheb_Nik_Studio tell your kid he must make video here about stretching sprues. Before I borrow some 2m round profiles for my 1/6 1/12 1/16 1/20 1/24 1/32 1/35 1/43 1/48 1/72 1/76 1/100 1/122 1/144 1/200 1/350 1/700 and 1/720 scale kits I want to finish all my unbuilt 1/87 kits which don't require panel line fixing. Dentist acrylic might be very cheap if you are a dantist, Paul Budzik is or was one. As for sanding, I very rarely use it because of scratches it leaves. I use files and chisel (for lapping if simple planning doesn't work well).
I actually have a short video on my phone how we did streached sprue with my son. Maybe will add it to one of videos :) And good luck with building all your kits. :D You need 9 lives to build them all :D
Why didnt you made a reference object: to check against after painting? So your work says nothing than you just did something I never seen before. So please coat it in camouflage an put something aside to compare.
Well, that is good idea. But this model is just started and I haven't painted it yet. As I mention in the video, I will use black lines as guide for new panel lines. That is why I have not covered it with primer yet. But on seconds 21-23 you can see another part - primed and with re-scribed panel lines. On that part you do not see old panel lines at all. But I will do another video later on re-scribing panel lines and riveting. Then I will prime the wing and show the final result. Hope this explanation is good enough for you. Peace
Dental Acrylic might be even more easy solution.
th-cam.com/video/a4URAxj6oz0/w-d-xo.html
Check other Paul Budzik videos on all his channels, good source of orthodoxal modelling knowledge.
Stretched sprues is okay if you master making them even thickness on long lengths, I never succeeded. Panel lines tend to be uneven due to molding process and mold form degradation. Besides, sprue must be fully melted to fill trenches. I fill holes with sanded or filed sprue dust in layers, goo pressed hard into surface with steel chisel facet. After filing and lapping it is completely uniform, so it is usable for fixing unpainted colored plastic models.
As for panel lines on kits... They are always overscaled. True method is filling them completely, primer or paint the surfaces in dark color, then needed body color, and when the paint dries - cut the lines with scalpel until underlying color appears. Cutting depth makes line width as needed, the deeper - the wider. Very fine sandpaper will polish all flat and nice.
Hi buddy, I have seen this video from Paul. And after some research I found this method too expensive and not easy to do because of that secret acrylic component :) Even if you have it, then filling panel lines with that will produce much less accurate result before sanding and then you have more sanding work (most time-consuming step in the process).
If you need help on stretched sprues, let me know. My 8-year son is master in this. We managed to make over 2 meters - long lines. I have many after our training exercises and ready to share ;)
And as for overscaling panel lines. I agree. But modeling is always compromise between reality, art, skills and approach. :)
@@Volsheb_Nik_Studio tell your kid he must make video here about stretching sprues.
Before I borrow some 2m round profiles for my 1/6 1/12 1/16 1/20 1/24 1/32 1/35 1/43 1/48 1/72 1/76 1/100 1/122 1/144 1/200 1/350 1/700 and 1/720 scale kits I want to finish all my unbuilt 1/87 kits which don't require panel line fixing.
Dentist acrylic might be very cheap if you are a dantist, Paul Budzik is or was one.
As for sanding, I very rarely use it because of scratches it leaves. I use files and chisel (for lapping if simple planning doesn't work well).
I actually have a short video on my phone how we did streached sprue with my son. Maybe will add it to one of videos :)
And good luck with building all your kits. :D You need 9 lives to build them all :D
@@Volsheb_Nik_Studio LOL building daily, 1 kit per week max, so when I die I will take only boxarts with me LOL
Why didnt you made a reference object: to check against after painting? So your work says nothing than you just did something I never seen before. So please coat it in camouflage an put something aside to compare.
Well, that is good idea. But this model is just started and I haven't painted it yet. As I mention in the video, I will use black lines as guide for new panel lines. That is why I have not covered it with primer yet. But on seconds 21-23 you can see another part - primed and with re-scribed panel lines. On that part you do not see old panel lines at all.
But I will do another video later on re-scribing panel lines and riveting. Then I will prime the wing and show the final result.
Hope this explanation is good enough for you. Peace
@@Volsheb_Nik_Studio I freue mich auf weitere Videos und Arbeitsfortschritte von dir .Viel Erfolg und danke für deine Videos.
@@DanielKeller-sf4bw Vielen Dank für die netten Worte. Sie sind uns jederzeit willkommen!