bairan STW120P waste oil burner problems
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ค. 2018
- I bought this waste oil burner on in July 2017. It was set up and worked for a week, but quickly developed problems. From the beginning it wasn't burning all the oil, there was oil dripping from the water boiler exhaust outlet. Then it just stopped working. It appears to have at least 3 problems.
1. It will ignite but always goes out after 10-15 seconds. The photocell is working so that isn't the problem. It could be the Danfoss controller?
2. The air pump has a problem as I cannot turn the pressure up above 0.4bar (about 5 psi) I tried running it using an air compressor and with air pressure over 5psi the flame was a lot bigger.
3. Even with a bigger flame, it's not burning all of the oil. There is a fine oil mist that lands on everything nearby when the burner is running.
As requested by Tina from Wenling Bairan Mechanical Co, I uploaded this video so they can see the problems and hopefully come up with a solution. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I have also tested and had the same problem. The solution for burning burner is that you heat the oil to the limit of 80-110 degrees Celsius and the spray pressure is at the limit from 1.5 to 3barg. After burning, the injection pressure can be increased accordingly.
i have one of these setup with 700 hours on it with no issues its how you set them up is the key i have tried many other burners that did not work well for me they had constant problems also stay away from the ones with built in compressors i had one that only lasted a week it was dropping pressure daily 5% kero mix with waste motor oil works best the 5% kero helps with ignition and keeps the internals clean inside the burner it is also easier heated being that more thin.... i believe you can get a good burner and a bad one just like a car from the show room
we know who you are
@@NOBOX7 what are you talking about
Hi Eugene
Whats your verdict about the Bairan burner, 5 years after.
Have you heard about the used oil furnace from 1950's that ran on water? Patent was issued to army service men in Texas for only adding water line to T fitting for used oil burner on used jeep engine oil, to get 50% increase in efficiency. That was not what was written in their application for Patent. SS coil tubing in brick insulated firepot of oil burner hooked to input common water line. Oil furnace started. Oil line has spring operated check one way valve. Temperature gauge monitored for temp up to 1500 degrees F. Then valve opened so as superheated steam is allowed in T fitting with oil to tiny nozzle. Nice burn flame runs constant. Then oil line shut off. Furnace still runs. Shock wave from 90 lbs pressure to zero AMBIENT in fire-pot forms Hydrogen and Oxygen torch flame that also heats heat exchanger. Normally water molecules separate at about 3000-6000 degrees which is too much energy. The vibration shock wave allows for disassociation at lower temperature. Electric motor with dual shafts ran 2 oil pumps at 90lbs. If water shut off, and cooled down, then furnace has to be restarted on oil. A much smaller unit in crate was shown to a US senator in Washington building underground parking , as an open trunk display. This was somewhat similar to the propane operated camping stove with circular pores, vertical round fire brick insulated chimney, and interior SS tubing of water. When steam introduced to T fitting, the fuel used was shut down leaving burning circular torch flames. It probably used minerals free distilled water so as nozzle would not clog. (US Patent office not allow for over unity for public.- Free Energy is eliminated in issued US Patents. US- 2,863,499.
Hi Eugene
When these burners leave the factory they are not setup to plug and play. It looks as though the compressor is not producing enough pressure . It should be running between 0.4 and 0.5 . So you will need to increase the pressure . Your nylon screw which adjusts the screw does not really achieve much. The problem is deeper in the compressor. Remove the 3 allan screws which hold the end cap on to expose the rotor face plate. Undo the 6 screws holding the face plate on, to gain access to the rotor . Inspect the rotor and vanes for possible damage . If there is no damage loosen the 2 allan screws on either side of compressor ring but do not remove. The compressor ring has got slight adjustment in it so push it against the rotor as far as it will go while tightening the 2 allan screws.
Re assemble in reverse and this should give you better pressure.
Also listening again to your compressor it sounds very noisy so it could also be suffering from a faulty bearing
Next remove the black plastic cover at the rear and on the rhs at the bottom you will see a plus or minus symbol. Insert the allan key and turn ant-clockwise to close the low pressure air vent which you can see if you look through the vents at the side of the heater tank. Close completely to get going then adjust as necessary.
In reply to Nelu. All carbon vane compressors operate at quite a high temperature 86Deg is quite normal
Hi John
Thank you very much for the advice. I ended up replacing the compressor rotor and vanes with new ones that the seller sent me. It has been a while since I did it but it seems to have solved the problem and it is now working OK. Funny thing is the old rotor and vanes didn't look damaged in any way but the new ones made a difference.
I found that my burner worked best with the low pressure air vent closed fully.
Fair play to ya John Wilson, I had a motor bearing fail in mine. Easy fix, but then the compressor wasn’t building up enough pressure, I’d never had guessed that adjustment was there 👍😁
@@EugeneVashenko
I'm curious:
Question Please:
I. Did you buy it new?
* If yes, why didn't you ask them to send you a new one... it's not your responsibility to replace parts.
* If no, I guess the seller was ethical and helped you out and now you're up and running!
Amen
Retired, Veteran
@@BowenOrg I did buy it new but it has been many years so I don't remember the reason. More than likely because they wanted me to ship it back and the cost to do so was a bit much. They sent the parts out without any issues so I would buy from them again.
The positive side to this is I learned how these burners work and we have had many years of use out of it.
@@EugeneVashenko
So I'm assuming that your warranty expired also.
That seems to be always the case doesn't it?
They ship out faulty products and then want you (aka us) to ship it back, which they know we won't do when it's a heavy item.
I'm glad they sent you the parts and you repaired it and you've been very happy with the machine... that's a great bonus.
I'm not much of a mechanic so I need to buy the highest rated products with the best warranties so I reduce problems as much as possible.
We're deciding on whether to go with a wood boiler or a used oil boiler for our retirement home that we're planning, so we doing a lot of R&D and asking a lot of questions.
Thanks for the feedback... and have a Great Holiday Season!
Mr & Mrs Bowen
Retired, Veteran
Remove and check pre heat tank filter. Soak in petrol and reverse blow to clear the fine mesh.
Check photo cell is clean, oil can run down the blast tube and get flicked up over the photo cell by the fan.
Remove nozzle, soak in petrol overnight and again, reverse blow to clear.
Unused veg oil may have gelled up your filter and or nozzle.
th-cam.com/video/20bGcAIDS-M/w-d-xo.html
I have one of these set up and has been running for 3 years- it has been quite a journey, mine is extensively modified to run reliably. the compressors on these are rubbish, the manufacturer gives you a spares kit to add an external compressor because they know they are rubbish. so, what you need to do is to remove the plastic cover next to the controller (white box). that will expose the air screw, turn it to the left to richen or the right to weaken the mix. these things start better when they are slightly rich. Also check your connections to the compressor for air leaks- you might show 5 psi on the dial but much less reaching the nozzle- use a spray bottle with detergent and water mix to check.
I have found using veg oil doesn't work that reliably with these burners but you can do it with perseverance.
I found that I could much improve my burner's reliability and performance by getting a 2mm thick piece of 150mm stainless steel tube and welding it to the backplate of the boiler, thus making a "sleeve" for the blast tube or a mini combustion chamber (I pinched that idea off Kroll who have pioneered a similar mod to their burners)- it gives improved "swirl" It will probably resolve your droplets of oil problem. That is due to poor atomisation so either/or not enough compressed air /fuel too thick (too low a pre-heat temperature) .
Those Danfoss controllers are very sophisticated and very fussy about the flame. I prefer the older siemens ones. You can fool the photocell while you set it up so there's not the annoying lockouts, there are plenty of videos on youtube about this.
I have set mine up to have the nozzle heater to run constantly at 90C which means I can dial back the pre-heat tank to 60C and use a plate heat exchanger from the output of the boiler to effectively replace the heating element in the pre-heat tank saving on power. You don't need to do that of course but you can see the mods on mine on my channel:th-cam.com/video/1Z5k8TvPXPo/w-d-xo.html
I feel your pain, but take heart- you can make these things work well and you will wonder how you ever managed without one.
th-cam.com/video/20bGcAIDS-M/w-d-xo.html
How do you keep nozzle hester at 90C? Did you add a thermostat and temperature sensor to do this or is the nozzle heater self balancing and you just power it all the time?
It seems to have too much ventilation air coming from blower & it blows flame away. Remove black plastic cover close to relay box. You need 4 or 5mm Hex for that. Under this cover is blower air regulation, adjust it to less.
Compressor shall not produce over 0,4bar. Your is ok.
had the same problem the fan is giving to much air i put a small board between tank and fan inlet, and i changed nozzle to devalan nr7 works perfect now
th-cam.com/video/20bGcAIDS-M/w-d-xo.html
LOOKS LIKE IT'S TIME FOR A FAST REPLACEMENT!!!
Amen
Retired, Veteran
Take the air pump apart and check the vanes, mine were stuck in the bore. the get carboned up and wont release.
Hello
I have serviced those burners over 5 year and its clear that if you take it out of box and just dry to start burning then it will not work. Even for me there is at least two hours work to regulate everything before its ready to use. If you want to burn vegetable oil its better to heat the oil to 160 deg or just add 15-20 % diesel. I dont suggest vegetable oil not at all, waste oil is best. To get compresor pressure up you must regulate blades in compressor and make sure that the cover is not leaking.
Hey, thanks for chiming in. It's hard to find anyone with experience using these burners. I uploaded this vid to show the seller the problems I'm having with the burner. It might look new, but I used it last winter for a week or 2 and it worked ok. But this year, I turned it on and had a couple of issues.....The seller said there might be a problem with my oil, so I am using clean vegetable oil to show the issues exist regardless of what oil I'm burning.I normally burn waste motor oil and the pre-heater is set to 60 deg C. I have tried going as high as 100, but found no need for it as 60 works well.I did check the cover screws and was able to tighten them a little which gave me lightly more pressure.Thanks for the tip regarding the blades. I'm not sure how to regulate them so any more info you can provide would be appreciated.
These burners are so temperamental, even when running well expect a service at least every 4 weeks at best mine has problems every 2 weeks, issues with nozzle, tank filter and especially air supply, very difficult to get running consistently I've spent many hours problem solving, you fix one issue then something else comes up I suggest unless you see it as a hobby get rid of it
Yes, I believe it. But it's far from a hobby, I need to get it running right as it's for heating our home hydronic system. I understand they need maintenance and that's OK, as long as I can get it running consistently. Time will tell.
Sir, it is not first time I hear that people have problem with these burners. I can help you to to have reliable heat from waste oil or vegetable oil at home or wherever you wan to have it. If you are interested please send me an email and I will explain you more. My email: probus@inbox.lv
For my Reznor it seems problems are almost always fuel related. If I feed it good clean waste trans fluid it burns very clean, hot and reliably
My first year was pain with this machine, waste oil works fine, but it cannot pump normal heating oil and I was looking air leaks in the line, but problem was oil pump. heating oil is too thin for the pump.. I needed to buy different oil pump for regular heating oil.. after that my problems almost disappeared..
Also I have a extra filter in waste oil line,,
Regular maintenance is key. U need to clean boiler after 2 barrels of oil. and burner needs to clean after 4 barrels of oil.
th-cam.com/video/20bGcAIDS-M/w-d-xo.html
Dear Eugene,
Sorry to hear this matter, please do not worry, we must will with you and solve it very soon.
Please after I checked your vedio, I have found the question, the air pressure is too low, then make oil atomization is not good, and then the burner stop directly when the burner can not get the flame. please the air pump noise is not the correct voice, it is too noise, not normally, please try open the air pump, and check whether have any damaged of the vanes in the air pump, if damaged, it will cause the air pressure become to low, the burner can work at least need 0.40 bar, our factory always set with 0.45 bar, the customers can adjust directly. please kindly check air pump, and confirm with me soon. if the vanes damaged, please notice me, i will send the replace parts to u by DHL/TNT express very soon.
And by the way. for the other question you mentioned, i checked, the control box and photocell,these are no problem. thank you.
regards,
Tina
Hi Tina
I hope you can help me to solve these problems...
You are correct, something must be wrong with the air pump as I cannot turn the air pressure up above 0.4bar.
I have removed the air pump but the vanes look OK. If something is wrong, I cannot see the problem.
But I think there is a problem with the controller also. If I connect up an air compressor and use a higher air pressure, the flame still goes out after approx 15 seconds.
I can upload another video to show you.
Check the oil filter too
Hello, Tina!
Where I can find more info about this oil burner?
check the membrane in the air pump
I have owned two of these burners and I have to say that they are absolute rubbish. The one I am currently using has been rebuilt so many times, with just about all parts replaced, broken again and then re- engineered with other parts. The only parts on mine which are original after three years are the motor, squirrel cage fan, nozzle (and holder) and electrodes. finally, now most parts have been re-engineered it runs reliably.
It reminds me of "trigger's broom" on Only fools and horses. Next time I buy a burner, it will have to be a Kroll- I have spent most of the last three years on my knees fixing the Chinese one.
Hi Geoff
While I have certainly had my share of trouble with this burner, in hindsight it was my lack of understanding. I now have 3 of these burners all running reliably. The one for my hydronic heating is burning through about 1000 litres of oil per month and it is running perfectly (and I am no longer adding diesel like I was previously).
They just need to be set up correctly. There is a comment from John Wilson further down the page. Make sure you understand what he is saying and do it. He also has a website with more info on setting them up. After following his advice, my compressor works perfectly, in fact I had to turn the pressure down from where I had it set initially.
@@EugeneVashenko Hi Eugene, Thank you for your reply, I am familiar with how to set up my burner, I was referring to the poor quality of the component parts, for example, Mine has had 3 controllers, the first simply failed, the second failed because of a short-circuit igniter (so a new igniter was required too). It has had three float switches, they are very expensive, the manufacturer wanted $120 for a new one (GBP60). I have had several oil slicks running down my garden path because of these failures. I replaced it with an aquarium float switch and solid state relay (Cost $10). A good precaution is to put a 1 minute timer in series with the oil pump to limit the damage should this happen. The oil tank temperature controller failed, I replaced it with a PID controller. I gave up with the rotor vane compressor after it wore 3 out, before the plastic back of it degraded and it leaked air and I went to the car shop and bought a conventional compressor=no more problems. I could go on and on, but I won't. It's great to have the almost free heat (although mine uses 100KwH per month to burn about 500 L of oil), the reliability issues are not so good. I honestly hope your experience is better than mine has been- it is very difficult to deal with the manufacturer (in my experience) they simply ignore you.
the website was very helpful. Thank you.
Hello everybody
I bought this burner and I do not know if it is normal for the air pump to operate at 86 degrees celsius. I think it is a very high temperature.
Please help me with answers.
I haven't measured the temp but my air pump gets hot after running for some time. I installed a small 120mm 240v fan below the pump and wired the fan to run when the pump runs.
@@EugeneVashenko Thanks for the reply.
The seller said it was a normal temperature
At this temperature I do not think she has a long life.
How did you solve your problem?
Thank you
You can buy a REAL American made oil burner for @ $500. Proven, tested, true design that lasts for decades and does not sound like a roto-tiller. Parts just a phone call away in English.
th-cam.com/video/20bGcAIDS-M/w-d-xo.html
Link plz?
@@nasjatt www.supplyhouse.com/Burners-20110000
These are furnace flue (diesel) burners. The video is showing waste oil / vegetable oil burner. Waste oil burners are more complex and expansive.
@@nasjatt th-cam.com/video/H7WdiGAuX9s/w-d-xo.html
Hi Eugene, just wondering if you could help me out, I also bought the same burner from a Chinese supplier, my problem is everything works up to the point where the solenoid kicks in and instead of the oil coming out of the jet the gets pushed down the oil feed pipe into the oil heater tank. No blockage in the jet I cleaned it all out. I’m using clean waste oil psi is at 6 heater is set at 90 , am I missing something here it’s driving me nuts 😡 your help would be much appreciated. Excellent video by the way 👍🏻
Hi Paul
I'd be happy to help but not sure i can.
I don't understand what you mean when you say the oil is getting pushed back into the heater tank. It should only ever be in the heater tank and it gets syphoned out by the steam of compressed air running through the nozzle. Best way to check all is working correctly is to temporarily remove the solenoid off the long tube and blow some low pressure compressed air through the tube. That should suck the oil out of the tank and give you a fine mist of oil coming from the nozzle.
@@EugeneVashenko sorry typo error ,I meant to say the air gets down the copper feed pipe to the heater tank it doesn't suck the oil up at all and there's no blockage in the jet,
I can see the bubbles in the tank when the solenoid kicks in , I have the video up there now here's the link th-cam.com/video/DtKSA5dL6Tg/w-d-xo.html
@@pauloreilly1970 ok, sure, I can see what you mean, looks like the nozzle is blocked. Have you tried removing the nozzle and starting it to see if the air will come out the front of the tube?
@@EugeneVashenko First thing I looked at, you would think it would be that but I cleaned it out then blowed it out with the compressor, there's an adjustment dial just to the right of the solenoid is this for combustion adjustment ? mines on 15 looking at the manual combustion should be at 1-4 . sorry for all the questions .
@@pauloreilly1970 That dial opens the vent which is located to the left of the oil tank. Sadly the numbers don't mean anything but you can see the vent if you look carefully. It should be partially open but it has nothing to do with the problem you are having.
I'd try removing the nozzle and starting it to see if the air will come out the front of the tube. That will confirm if there is a blockage somewhere.
Otherwise, contact John from www.bairanuk.com/ He has helped me with info and spare parts many times.
You need buy additional compressor need at list 1 bar pressure to use vegetable oil recommend silent compressor.
Nonsense. There is nothing wrong with the compressor on these burners.
1 bar is abaut maximum pressure. 0,4-1 bar is good. pressure depends what size of nozzle you have.
1.0/1.2 nozzle if you use kerosine need twice less . If you use vegetable oil minimum 0.8 bar
It is opvisios that burner flame is in the sun and it doesen't se flame "in the darkness" !
Nooooooooo deja nomas arrancas a las 7 am a encenderla y terminas a las 22 hs cuando ya la tenes que apagar. Gracias.
Saludos.
No tengo suficiente aceite para quemar durante 15 horas al día.
I know what causing this !
You have to decrease the air flow . Allankey to the right ( behind the black cover )
Done it several times
The Problem could be the little sealing O-Ring on the back of the Nozzle. If it gets hard the pressur of the compressor pass by the ring and get into the oiltank.
Hello! Have you got already the problem solwed? I have got kroll burner now abaut 10 years, so I think I know at least something abaut these kind of burners. I guess 1. you have too big nozzle. Or 2. not enauhg airpressure. Or 3. the secondary air is too much, or too less. I mean the mixture is not right. And least, the nozzle is blocked up. Pleace, let me know if you have got problem solwed.
who died
Habe mir im Oktober 19 diesen Brenner bestellt bei Ebay bei einem
"Opelteilehändler in Mörschbach" der auch diese Teile vertreibt.
Der Brenner hat vom ersten Tag bis heute nicht funktioniert. Kessel
immer verölt trotz vorgegebenem Altöl. Viele Wochen rumexperimentiert
mit Temperatur, Luftdruck mit eingebautem Kompressor als auch externem
Kompressor. Wollte das Teil zurückgeben was nun nach 3 Monaten Nerven
nicht mehr möglich ist. Falls jemand Interessa daran hat bitte melden.
Mein Fazit: Dieses verhexte Teil wird wohl nie wie vom Hersteller
angepriesen funktionieren. Ich würde den Brenner niemandem empfehlen.
Keine Ahnung wie man hier Kontakt herstellen kann, aber ich hätte Interesse :-)
@@poerschi werde noch Versuche starten, hab jetzt ein Edelstahlrohr als Flammrohr gekauft das ich länger lassen will. Mal gucken wie das sich schlägt. Über China direkt hätte ich für 300€ weniger das gleiche Gerät kaufen sollen. Dachte das ich dann eben einen kompetenten Ansprechpartner zur Seite habe aber falsch gedacht. Ich bleib dran und werde berichten.
It’s Not the burner there’s nothing wrong with it. Damper Jack. It needs lots of air to help atomise the Fuel,
Yep green people it’s been used before , now being recycled for heating .
Моя горелка чуть проще: th-cam.com/video/K2HU0taIU1A/w-d-xo.html
As far as I know, the siphon nozzle in it works at 5 psig at maximum or 0.35-0.4 BAR. The pressure should not exceed 0.4 BAR. Otherwise the nozzle will be broken.
th-cam.com/video/20bGcAIDS-M/w-d-xo.html
Way to much oil pressure