Bairan STW120P waste oil burner - unburnt oil
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- The 3rd video to show problems with the STW-120P burner I purchased in 2017. After viewing the first 2 videos, Tina from Bairan was quick to send out replacement parts.
With new parts installed, the burner fires reliably every time and burns OK, but a lot of oil isn't burnt and leaks out the water boiler door.
To clearly show the problem, I have set up the burner on a bench with a tube over the end and you can see how quickly the oil builds up.
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I had the same problem with unburned oil. After many adjustments that did not work, I found that the ignition electrodes were touching the oil sprayed by the nozzle. After I have removed the ignition electrodes so that they do not touch the sprayed oil and I have adjusted the combustion air, the burner works excellently.
Please use a liner and adjust the air fuel ratio .
Hi I have the same problem checked everything burner only week old
Hey i stuck into a problem. There is a diesel burner i set pressure at 8 bar, i replaced Nozzle, adjusted Air pressure from high to lowest but at every time some unburnt diesel coming and spraying with flame and due to the same lots of smoke coming out from chimney?
Could you please help me to control unburnt fuel with flame
Hi Eugene, I am also having the same issue with a mist of unburnt oil which deposits in the combustion chamber walls and accumulates at the bottem of the boiler. I have tried just about every adjustment possible. I am wondering did you ever get to the bottem of this issue or is it just an oily mess that we have to live with? P.S i have also tried an external air compressor feed, the higher pressure increased the flame and reduced the mist of unburnt oil but not completely.
Regards
Vinnie
Hi mate. Sadly I never found a magic fix, but that may have been due to the fact that nothing was actually wrong. What I discovered was that some oil burns clean with no mist. Over the years, I have burnt thousands of liters of waste motor oil, used hydraulic oil, clean heating oil, used cooking oil and diesel fuel. Without making any changes to the burner and simply swapping from one oil to another has shown dramatic changes. Instead of a oily mess in the combustion chamber, I often have dry grey soot. Occasionally it is snow white in color, very powdery, not a hint of oil residue. Strangely enough, it often takes a day or so of use before you notice any difference....
Move the flame stabiliser further into the blast tube and see what that does- fixed the problem for me. you will find you will have to reduce the secondary air if you do that because otherwise the flame will detach.
I have been advised the brake plate should sit proud of the blast tube by approx 4 mm and the fan air vent needs to be closed. This has worked for me.
Hi can u help with the wiring diagram to connect it to the power line??
What exactly do you want to know? There's not much to it, you just need to connect active, neutral and earth to the main plug. The active should run through a thermostat controller to turn the burner on/off as required.
Hi Eugene.. My friend & I both purchased one of these oil burners each.. We have them about a week & have had them tested on a bench before adding them to the boiler to make sure there weren’t any problems..
We both have a major problem of unburnt oil for some reason with both units.. We have had a really good look for air leaks but can’t find anything wrong.. All air pressures seem to be ok & are running at 0.4 bar & can be adjusted higher or lower during the test but no matter what pressure we run at, there is still a spray of unburnt oil which goes everywhere.. Can you help us out with any info as I can see you have had a very similar problem..??
Many thanks in advance
Neil & Paul 😊
Hi Neil
Let me start by saying although I have had my share of problems with this burner, overall I'm really happy with it - it kept us warm through 4 or so months of winter with very little cost.
There were several occasions where I thought I had solved the unburnt oil problem, but each time, once the burner was put back on the boiler, the oil would begin to drip out.
In the end, I concluded the burner must be working OK, and my problem may be with used motor oil.
I decided to "improve" the oil by adding a mix of 75% diesel and 25% petrol. I set up a car 12v fuel pump inside the 20 liter plastic container and used a timer relay to switch it on/off. Each time the oil level in the pre-heat tank drops and the oil pump turns on to refill it, my fuel pump turns on for 0.4 sec and adds a squirt of diesel/petrol mix to the pre-heat tank.
I found this made a huge difference - for starters the flame is larger and hotter, so the boiler heats up faster. All of the oil is now burnt so instead of a dirty oily mess to clean up all I have is a brown ash, nice and dry and I can go longer between cleans. I have had it working this way during the last month of cold weather and it has worked really well.
Eugene's Workshop
Thanks a lot for your speedy reply.. That’s great news..
What size of nozzle is your burner running on..??
The burners we have, came with (I’m told) a standard nozzle of 1.2 & because of all the excessive unburnt oil we thought the nozzle was too big & allowing too much oil through, so changed one to a 0.8 to see if this made a difference.. This did shorten the flame a great deal but we still have the same problem of unburnt oil being deposited onto the bench.. (Not as bad as the 1.2 nozzle though, but still too much)
We’re are at our wits end trying to make adjustments on air flow on the high & low pressure settings & not being able to control the unburnt oil.. We have contacted our supplier & they agree, this should not be happening & just today agreed to have a look at them to see if they can find a problem..
Going by your two videos of showing (1) Unburnt Oil dripping from the long pipe to (2) Having no excess unburnt oil dripping from the long pipe.. What changes did you make to get the pipe to keep dry..
Thanks again Eugene
Neil & Paul 😊
@@taximax4230
I don't recall the nozzle size, I would assume 1.2 also.
IIRC, the video that shows the pipe dry after 10 mins running was just after I replaced the vanes in the compressor. After that, I was able to adjust the air pressure where as before replacing them I wasn't able to increase the pressure. You may need to watch all the vids in order to understand the issues I had.
But as I said above, even though it ran dry on the bench, after putting it in the boiler, it began to leak after a short while.
The only thing that solved it for me was the diesel/petrol addition that I described above.
Why don't you try it by simply filling your oil tank with used oil, getting it running and then adding 30 to 50 ml of diesel/petrol mix and see if it improves?
@@EugeneVashenko Mixing is a good idea, but try it with just diesel for your safety, any fuel that creates an explosive vapour like petrol may come back and bite you if it pools and then evaporates in the combustion chamber. FWIW I have my own version of this burner based on a riello rdb, and have noticed the same phenomenon in my case I have to sort it as my burner points down into my combustion chamber and its a nightmare to clean. I have noticed waste veg oil burns clean. but im keen to see if I can get WMO to b
@@denisohbrien I did try with just diesel and it was definitely an improvement, however by adding just a few litres of petrol made it that much better.
I tried to make it as safe as possible and it's wired in such a way that it can never add more than a split second burst.
Bairan is a good burner . But you need to know some basics about combustion.
First of all, behind the black plastic cover is a important screw for the air setting .
With the liner ( pipe ) you use you need a gap between the burner and the liner for letting oxygen in your oxidation.
The adjustments is very important to obtain right lambda for good combustion.
I’m here to help you if you want .
I have sold hundreds of these burners .
Selling them is one thing, actual daily usage for 5+ years is another...
That screw opens the air intake flap. There is no need to adjust it once it has been set. It has no effect on the unburnt oil issue that people are asking about.
@@EugeneVashenko i can also see other issues .
Your running to low air pressure in that one . The temperature in the preheater tank also important.
Nozzle size is another thing.
I bet you haven’t tried to change the size of your nozzle.
just noting that modern synthetics have super high flash points, there are chems to lower the flash point or mineral oil i heard does this
As I understend they send you new air compressor?
Yes, they sent a compressor rebuild kit and now the compressor is working well, but there is still a problem that I cannot solve. The strange thing is with my external compressor connected, it works properly. I can run it for a long time with not one drop of oil in the pipe.
Your internal compressor pressure is too low. It should be at least 0.4 kgs/cm sq.
bairanuk.com/burner-information--tips-7-c.asp look here and write these guys, they will give you an advice.
By the way, what pressure you have with external compressor?
Thank you for the link. I found that website several months ago while searching for info on these burners. They have been a huge help.
I ran the external compressor anywhere between 0.4 to 0.6 kgs/cm sq. It worked really well at 0.6. When I try to increase the built in air pump to 0.6 the pressure drops when the burner fires up.