3D Printing a Giant Indestructible Trashcan
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ม.ค. 2023
- Learn about flexible filaments, printer nozzles, and slicer tricks by following me on this adventure printing a giant TPU trashcan.
The vase model is on Printables (there's actually 3 different ones and I can't tell the difference between them, the one I printed in this video is #2):
* www.printables.com/model/7280...
The settings I used:
* 225C nozzle temp
* 50C bed temp
* (30mm/s speed) x (0.5mm layer height) x (1.6mm line width) == 24 mm^3/s flow rate
* 120% first layer line width & 125% first layer flow. 115% flow for the rest of the print.
=== Affiliate Links to Support Me ===
SainSmart Translucent TPU (800g spools): amzn.to/3HMcIgX
SUNLU Filament Dryer (up to 55C PLA/TPU): amzn.to/3WURjaH
SUNLU Filament Dryer (up to 70C PLA/TPU/ABS/PETG/Nylon/PC): amzn.to/3XTDzOX - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I ruined some PEI sheets printing TPU until I discovered that I can get a tightly stuck TPU print off my PEI easily if I spray the edge of the print where it's on the bed with some isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol does something to unstick the print. Works every time and I don't have to mess around with glue stick. I print a lot of TPU.
Interesting. I've heard of that for other materials -- the alcohol evaporating cools the material down and it contracts faster than the plate, which can detach a corner/edge, which might be all you need for ABS/PETG, etc. In my case, I usually can get a TPU corner up, the issue is the rest of the surface fused to the bed. 🤷♂ But I haven't tried it before, so I will next time I gamble on a smooth-PEI-TPU print
Very informative, entertaining and yeah, good video!
Thanks!
Great tip about changing your nozzle over with the hot end at temp.
I noticed whole carriage play when you tightened the nozzle at 2:41, you may have to check for any loose screws, i don't think that amount of play is normal, but i may be wrong.
Yes! I notice that too every time I change the nozzle. I've been somewhat concerned about it, but it doesn't seem to affect the awesome print quality of the printer, so I haven't stressed too much about it. And if you watch my build video (particularly the short EVA video and Part 2 video), you will see that I am going to avoid messing with that hotend assembly at all costs 😅
Update on this:. I just took off the extruder and and adapter plate and tightened the bolts holding it to the linear rail glide block. The play in the printhead you mentioned is gone.
Either I never tightened it (unlikely) or over time the nylon parts (or bolts?) cold flowed/creeped. I guess it shouldn't be surprising... These are plastic parts after all and this is a fast printhead at elevated temperatures. Even furniture in my house that I have to put together says you should re-tighten the screws after a few weeks of use.
About to start building my ratrig 400mm. Love the content!
Thanks! Building this machine was a real blast (besides that EVA thing... but that was avoidable). And every time I go to print something on my Ender and it says 5 hours then I go to my RatRig and it says 50 minutes, I am reminded how awesome it is. Make sure you you're constantly checking squareness when doing the initial frame, and don't forget to ground everything. Also, get on the discord and get used to using the search box. You can ask questions of course, but nearly every thing that can go wrong has been discussed there before.
I'm in love with the massive bed and print volume. I didn't get a chance to check out the build process videos, how much did the printer end up costing by the time everything was built and ready to go?
I was able to keep everything slightly under $2,000 with the enclosure kit and buying the polycarbonate panels and cutting them myself. You can buy them pre-cut from a shop online for approx $500, but I found clearance polycarbonate sheets from piedmontplastics.com, which regularly has clearance sales on sheet plastics, and I was able to get the panels for less than $100, and then cut them on a CNC router at a local shop. You can apparently cut them by hand, but it's tedious and inaccurate, of course. If I wasn't so excited to learn about CNC routing, I probably would've just purchased them.
Here's my V-Core-3 build playlist if you're interested: th-cam.com/play/PLrTmSWaWJwqLDVR0vk3-6i47G8yUVdCsp.html
Any thoughts why it jammed and then magically cured itself? is the flow rate the issue at that part of the print or too hot, that's seems doubtful, since I've ran sainsmart at 240c with no issue? I find that TPU doesn't need a bed above 30-40c. Came out great, even with the jam. I used to make a bunch of toys for my kids when they were smaller out of tpu, it is indestructible, so there are still a bunch of cartoon characters in toy chests that my kids haven't been able to destroy after many years.
I am not totally sure. At first I thought it might be too hot because I usually think of TPU as printing at PLA temps, but you're right a lot of TPUs go up quite a bit higher. I can say that every time it jammed, I had no problem re-feeding it through the extruder, so it was never a total clog.
There were a few positives why it wouldn't jam:
1) Large nozzle creates less back pressure from extrusion
2) Vase mode leads to very consistent flow rates
And some negatives that might lead to jamming:
1) 24 mm^3/s is a very high flow rate in general, especially for TPU (you can see how fast and steadily the spool is spinning at 07:44).
2) The BTT smart filament sensor has always seemed like it had unnecessarily high resistance, which might be especially impactful for TPU.
3) It's possible that my extruder tension was just too low and it was slipping. I haven't actually figured out the best way to set the tension, and I know TPU is particularly sensitive compared to other filaments.
Amazing.
Just found your channel. Not using a rat rig but I love TPU and always want to try and print most things in it lol
What are you me settings? And what file did you use for the print?
TPU is amazing stuff. It is thoroughly underrated. Sure it's got a couple printing quirks, but whatever you print is indestructible.
I have added a link to the STL and listed the print settings in the video description. Thanks for watching!
@@ObsessiveEngineering I also subbed so keep up the awesome work :)
Nice print and video, I'm currently building a 400. What are the bed sheet corner stoppers you are using?
Here's the link for the corner pieces. It was recommended to use them to help align the magnetic sheet when you're building the printer, and it would've been worth it just for that. But printed in ASA it has also survived a couple hundred hours at this point printing with 110C bed temp in a heated enclosure. Couldn't be happier with it. (the two pieces on each corner have friction fit pegs and slots, and it wasn't super reliable, but I used a drop of CA/superglue and it's held up fine)
www.printables.com/model/123037-ratrigrat-rig-v-core-3-spring-steel-sheet-bed-corn
@@ObsessiveEngineering thank you!
Nice! New sub. I’ve been thinking I’ll likely get a RatRig for my third printer, and I do heaps of Tpu projects, so great to see this, thanks! Any advice regarding the ratrig?
The RatRig was my third printer as well (actually 4th if you count my resin printer, but I hardly use that anymore). I absolutely adore the V-Core-3.1 and it was gobs of fun putting it together. Also, I was able to do a sub-10min benchy pretty right away after I had input shaping figured out.
Check out my RatRig build series playlist on it if you want to get a feel for what I went through to build it:
* th-cam.com/video/0dQpodKZjQ8/w-d-xo.html
Here's a couple things I would advise:
* Don't use the default EVA/hotend parts included in the RatRig repo. I suggest you go to the main EVA website and download the heatset insert versions. I would've avoided so much pain doing that -- you might have to download new parts from their website anyway, if you don't use RatRig's default extruder & hotend.
* Make or buy a little dolly to put the printer on when you're done. I used these leveling casters, which are spectacular, allowing you to lower the wheels to move it around, or lower the rubber feet to keep it stable on the ground: amzn.to/3Yn4u5w
* Use DIN rails for the electronics in the back, and expect not to have much guidance for the electronics. Most people end up going to Voron docs to fill in gaps.
* The RatRig discord is an awesome resource. Of course you can ask questions there, but most things have been discussed there before and can be searched quickly.
hmm. I like it. I'm thinking it might be fun to try some TPU shower shoes/pool shoes.
I am curious, what is the length between your extruder and nozzle? I Just finished up a hot end mount and extruder mount to fit the DyzEnd pro and DyzeXtruder to the Eva 3 system. the length of the PTFE tube from extruder to the hot end is exactly 50mm, so the path from gear teeth to the tip of the nozzle is probably more like 70mm overall... That may be too long to run TPU reliably. IDK
I don't remember exactly but I believe my PTFE tube was around 25mm.
I really wanted to try printing shoes on this printer, especially if I can do it with like 90A TPU (a bit softer than regular). But I haven't found any good models that give me confidence it's not a waste of time and filament. Let me know if you find something
Your installation speed is so fast. I'm stuck in the belt tightness. The printed circle is not standard
You are building a RatRig as well? It's quite an adventure but totally worth it! If you didn't see it, I have a build series on the V-Core-3 -- it doesn't have a lot of information about belts, but you might get other useful info about the process. th-cam.com/play/PLrTmSWaWJwqLDVR0vk3-6i47G8yUVdCsp.html . Thanks for watching!
@@ObsessiveEngineering Yes, I have seen every video of you, and the video is very good 👍🏻， It's just the tightness of the belt that makes me headache. It has not been adjusted properly. Printing effect is slightly poor
Alan i had the Same issue with my Nozzle, How do i remove it, if it's tight and stuck due to heat changes?
Please i'd Appreciate your input, it's my first Printer EVER and i've done 2 Prints, then tried Changing the Nozzle and it All wore off
it was so tightly screwed i thought it's welded not Threaded, i tried a strong nut wrench just like yours here, some power tools, eventually it wore off and i ordered another one
So, your jams.. at what stage were they (sensor, extruder, hotend)?
I'm not totally sure. My most significant observation was that it was never difficult to re-feed the filament back into the hotend after the jam (pulling back the extruder tension spring and forcing the filament through the nozzle by hand). So it was never a total clog of the hotend. Given that, my best guess is that the tension knob was just too loose for the amount of pressure it needed to keep up that flow rate. I've never figured out a good way to set that extruder tension knob -- which means it might have been user error, especially since TPU should be set differently than other filaments.
That may be the prettiest trash can I've seen so far :) Thanks for filament loading clip, somehow that bit is often skipped in the reviews.
If Ptah a model name or a personal printer's name? It's a bird in Ukrainian and probably in some other Slavic languages too but you probably know this if you named it :)
I actually name all my computers and printers after Egyptian deities. Ptah, Osiris, Khepri, Sobek, etc. I don't really know that much about the individual deities, I just like the uniqueness of the names. Though Ptah is supposedly the creator-of-everything god, which I guess is quite appropriate for a 3d printer name 😁
@@ObsessiveEngineering Yeah, quite fitting :)