The power conditioner I use is an old version of the Refrigmatic MEGA Electronic Voltage & Surge Protector. You can find it in Amazon for around $30. They are made for refrigerators but work really well for this purpose. The controller you and I have has relay contacts rated for 8 amps. The Vevor unit you are looking at draws more than that. Look on the data plate to see how many amps it draws but I bet its more than 8... Probably better than 10 amps. You'd burn the contacts in the onboard relay if you pull to much current. My new setup uses "peanut" relays (small relay/contactor). You can use the same controller but let it be the low current drive for the external peanut relays. My relays are rated at 30 amps so I have a big safety factor. Use one for "up" and one for "down". I'm adding a third relay to be used as a "Master" contactor and safety switch. I've wired the relay through two limit switches mounted just fractions of and inch above and below the controller's limit switches (hi and low). In the event one of the controller's limit switches fails, the master contactor limit switches will kill all the power to the main control and motor. It just another safety switch that's needed. I not going to take the time tonight to type the reason it's needed but it definitely is needed. If you'd like to know why let me know and I'll type the scenario that happened to me that could have ended in disaster but I caught in time. This "Master" switch will help a bunch!
Hi Tony, I'm in the process of building something similar. I have a couple of questions. What is the part number for the plug in for voltage brown outs you mentioned? Second question, I have that same remote control set up. You mentioned it will not work with a larger hoist? I'm using a 880/1760 Vevor. What issues will I run into with that remote? What other remote are you planning to use?
Hi Tony, I've completed my lift with relay's etc. Same controller. One issue I've run into is the wire rope rolling over itself and jumping/ jerking a bit. This usually happens after several uses. I believe this is probably due to the lift touching down on the floor and causing a bit of slack. I think the stop switch you are discussing would solve my issue. Can you tell the part numbers for the switch you are using? Is this as simple as running the wiring to the control box and dialing in the stop switch? Thanks in advance.
I dropped a plumb bob from the top down to form the center line of my lift. The platform is centered on this line and the lift motor spool is centered on this line. With the platform at the bottom make sure the cable end with the hook is connected to the hole in the lift motor and is dropped down to the platform staying aligned with the vertical line you marked. Don't worry about the side that loops out of the pulley that goes to the lift motor spool. Make sure the platform stops short of the floor and keeps tension on the cable (mine is about two inches off the floor). The low limit switch takes care of that for me. On Amazon search for an ME-1808 limit switch... They come in a 2 pack. The switch is wired normally open and closes when the limit is reached. Wire it to the hi terminals on the controller. As an initial setup item you will want to unspool the entire lift motor and then guide it back on the spool tightly with no gaps between coils. Then oil the crap out of it with a good cable and chain lube (very important). The cable rubs against itself constantly and climbs up at least once on its trip up and down. The lubrication helps with abrasion wear and makes the climb transition less "abrupt". Once everything is dialed in maintenance of the cable becomes the biggest task. Three or four times a year you need to use something like WD-40 (it has lot of solvent in it) to clean the old oil and junk off the cable. Depending on your usage you'll need to oil the cable and trolleys often. I oil mine once a week and clean it about every month.
The power conditioner I use is an old version of the
Refrigmatic MEGA Electronic Voltage & Surge Protector. You can find it in Amazon for around $30. They are made for refrigerators but work really well for this purpose.
The controller you and I have has relay contacts rated for 8 amps. The Vevor unit you are looking at draws more than that. Look on the data plate to see how many amps it draws but I bet its more than 8... Probably better than 10 amps. You'd burn the contacts in the onboard relay if you pull to much current. My new setup uses "peanut" relays (small relay/contactor). You can use the same controller but let it be the low current drive for the external peanut relays. My relays are rated at 30 amps so I have a big safety factor. Use one for "up" and one for "down". I'm adding a third relay to be used as a "Master" contactor and safety switch. I've wired the relay through two limit switches mounted just fractions of and inch above and below the controller's limit switches (hi and low). In the event one of the controller's limit switches fails, the master contactor limit switches will kill all the power to the main control and motor. It just another safety switch that's needed. I not going to take the time tonight to type the reason it's needed but it definitely is needed. If you'd like to know why let me know and I'll type the scenario that happened to me that could have ended in disaster but I caught in time. This "Master" switch will help a bunch!
Hi Tony, I'm in the process of building something similar. I have a couple of questions.
What is the part number for the plug in for voltage brown outs you mentioned?
Second question, I have that same remote control set up. You mentioned it will not work with a larger hoist?
I'm using a 880/1760 Vevor. What issues will I run into with that remote? What other remote are you planning to use?
Hi Tony, I've completed my lift with relay's etc. Same controller.
One issue I've run into is the wire rope rolling over itself and jumping/ jerking a bit. This usually happens after several uses. I believe this is probably due to the lift touching down on the floor and causing a bit of slack.
I think the stop switch you are discussing would solve my issue.
Can you tell the part numbers for the switch you are using? Is this as simple as running the wiring to the control box and dialing in the stop switch?
Thanks in advance.
I dropped a plumb bob from the top down to form the center line of my lift. The platform is centered on this line and the lift motor spool is centered on this line. With the platform at the bottom make sure the cable end with the hook is connected to the hole in the lift motor and is dropped down to the platform staying aligned with the vertical line you marked. Don't worry about the side that loops out of the pulley that goes to the lift motor spool. Make sure the platform stops short of the floor and keeps tension on the cable (mine is about two inches off the floor). The low limit switch takes care of that for me. On Amazon search for an ME-1808 limit switch... They come in a 2 pack. The switch is wired normally open and closes when the limit is reached. Wire it to the hi terminals on the controller. As an initial setup item you will want to unspool the entire lift motor and then guide it back on the spool tightly with no gaps between coils. Then oil the crap out of it with a good cable and chain lube (very important). The cable rubs against itself constantly and climbs up at least once on its trip up and down. The lubrication helps with abrasion wear and makes the climb transition less "abrupt". Once everything is dialed in maintenance of the cable becomes the biggest task. Three or four times a year you need to use something like WD-40 (it has lot of solvent in it) to clean the old oil and junk off the cable. Depending on your usage you'll need to oil the cable and trolleys often. I oil mine once a week and clean it about every month.