วีดีโอ

I have this model of washer that won't start unless you unplug it and plug it back in luckily it remembers that you put money in it and you just press start and it works

How about the mega tools electric winch motor 2.3 kw,1.5 ton capacity

Hi Tony, I've completed my lift with relay's etc. Same controller. One issue I've run into is the wire rope rolling over itself and jumping/ jerking a bit. This usually happens after several uses. I believe this is probably due to the lift touching down on the floor and causing a bit of slack. I think the stop switch you are discussing would solve my issue. Can you tell the part numbers for the switch you are using? Is this as simple as running the wiring to the control box and dialing in the stop switch? Thanks in advance.

I can't for the life of me keep the BEEP off. Whenever I restart the device the BEEP comes back on.

What if your machine won’t go into diagnostics mode and the final spin light just blinks?

Do not reinstall the belt guard… it is useless…

After my mom use garden hose to clean the washer, the washer no longer lights up and will trip the breaker. What should I do to fix it? Thank you.

How did you remove the top?

The power conditioner I use is an old version of the Refrigmatic MEGA Electronic Voltage & Surge Protector. You can find it in Amazon for around $30. They are made for refrigerators but work really well for this purpose. The controller you and I have has relay contacts rated for 8 amps. The Vevor unit you are looking at draws more than that. Look on the data plate to see how many amps it draws but I bet its more than 8... Probably better than 10 amps. You'd burn the contacts in the onboard relay if you pull to much current. My new setup uses "peanut" relays (small relay/contactor). You can use the same controller but let it be the low current drive for the external peanut relays. My relays are rated at 30 amps so I have a big safety factor. Use one for "up" and one for "down". I'm adding a third relay to be used as a "Master" contactor and safety switch. I've wired the relay through two limit switches mounted just fractions of and inch above and below the controller's limit switches (hi and low). In the event one of the controller's limit switches fails, the master contactor limit switches will kill all the power to the main control and motor. It just another safety switch that's needed. I not going to take the time tonight to type the reason it's needed but it definitely is needed. If you'd like to know why let me know and I'll type the scenario that happened to me that could have ended in disaster but I caught in time. This "Master" switch will help a bunch!

Hi Tony, I'm in the process of building something similar. I have a couple of questions. What is the part number for the plug in for voltage brown outs you mentioned? Second question, I have that same remote control set up. You mentioned it will not work with a larger hoist? I'm using a 880/1760 Vevor. What issues will I run into with that remote? What other remote are you planning to use?

Does it spin thag slow or am I just seeing that?

Thanks

I whirlpool commercial washer coin op will not go into diagnostics mode. I’ve changed the board & the coin slide. The machine will turn on when no coins have been put it. Even when the coin slide switch is unplugged

How do you remove top of this appliance?

How do you remove the top on this one? I'm trying to do it right now and I can't figure out

Link to pdf broken.

If anyone needs the tech sheet, the part number for the booklet is w10838047a

Tony, thank you for the video. I was too gun-shy to remove the solenoid (not enough experience) but your video helped me look at the job from another point of view. If your Expedition is 4X4, you will never get the top bolt out unless you're real MF'n patient. I tried six or eight different approaches before finally getting the right angle with both hands and my forearms wedged up in there. Then, the ratchet (I highly recommend ¼" drive) only had about a 2" travel. I GOT THAT SUMBITCH! It took a bit to ratchet that bolt back in but, I got it done. No way to torque it to specs so fingers crossed. If that bolt was easily accessible, I'd have had it done in 1-1½hrs. Instead, it took me four. Once I got that top bolt back in, the rest was a cinch. Good luck everyone!

can you please show me how to disassemble this washer machine?

Quick question, when doing the test cycle my lid lock led is not lit is that normal. I was originally getting a pressure error (F3E1) I fixed that then I noticed the lid lock thing thought it was odd.

First, how do I get the program you have on your tablet? Next, the lights aren't coming on when money is inserted. Any suggestions? Great video.

How to calibrate ? Like all back to normal

Was so easy after the solenoid removal

Poor quality video. Do it in day light...

Great video, my DCE33a is freezing ice in the reservoir and not releasing it... I replaced timer but same issue. Any thoughts? thanks

I wanted to download your PDF but your link gets redirected. Do you have any other link to your PDF? Hope to hear from you ;) Thank you

Now I am grateful for your showing me this, but the written instructions don't appear. Try it. Thanks to you, though, I CAN get onto our local uhf club repeater here in Brussels Belgium. I've come back to relearn programming as I can't get it to stay with the VHF repeater, which is on 145.225 Mhz. It keeps jumping to146.225.... I think it must be me...

My Crosley is extremely loud in the spin cycle like an airplane taking off. Is it supposed to sound like that. Is it because of how fast it spins?

I’ve seen this same machine and the spin cycle was extremely loud

Very informative, thank you! 👍🏿🍷🍯🥃

For me the first priority is to turn the loud beep off Menu 23 does this

Hi Tony, I can't download your pdf - any chance you can send a new link please..? Thanks, Peter G6SOO (UK)

How did you take the top off? I need to replace the oven temp light.

I have the same model. The washer stalls without completing a cycle, leaving three green LEDs lit, "In Use," "Rinse" and "Done." The manual is missing and I have not been able to locate any information on the web. Any ideas what the three lights indicate and what is wrong?

Thank you! This worked out very well. I had to remove the new starter once I had it bolted up because the solenoid fork would not extend, and the gear kept hitting the flywheel. When I put it back on for the 2nd time, I made sure to wrangle it around so the fork would extend all the way.

Explain a good Job well done

ive been trying to figure out what codes and what not for my area to be able to talk with people and have not any luck

This was the most uninformative video ever. What is a fix for the problem? Ever tried using a leaf blower on the inside and blowing it out. It works! Geeze!

is it possible with a dryer?

Scotsman factory tech 35 yrs. A dc33 in 72 degree room with 75 degree water incoming brand spanking new will full cycle in as little as 22 mins. 24 is a great avg. 25 is still good.......10 years later, 25 mins is awesome and 30 is acceptable. Once they hot 40 min cycle time, they are done because they almost melt as much as they make and take weeks to full up. A brand new machine will still take 2 full days 48 hrs to fill up.

Hi there! I just purchased a used one! I verified it made ice; and installed the drain pump (not easy!!) I am unfamiliar with normal operation. The water stops during the freeze cycle; which I’d expect, and I get cubes every 25-30 mins. It’s working well as far as that goes. When I turn the switch to OFF the drain pump cycles, as it should, to drain melt. However the water keeps running in the chamber. Pretty certain the compressor is off at this point, as I’d hope. I have not yet let it fill with ice to see whether the water continues circulating or not. Should it??? I just was taken aback by OFF circulating water, thinking maybe something I did in the wiring for the drain pump is wrong.

I have a BJ-218 25 watt. Just blew my fuse. Cannot read the fuse information on fuse end. What fuse specification do I need to replace.

This will definitely come in handy! I have been looking for some "trick" or specialty tool to make this easier. I'll update when I do it this evening.

After 5+h laying in the snow I wish you would have shown how you got the solenoid back on. Seems like I just can't get the starter to engage fully so I can re-hook solenoid properly. Anything that could help would be appreciated.

Thanks for this video! Same issue solved

Thank you for this video. I had my starter die on vacation and was able to replace it thanks to your video. Getting the solenoid fork in the right position after installing the starter was tricky but eventually we got it with my son turning the flywheel. I can't imagine getting that top bolt out or in with the solenoid in place. You hit all the key things to look for when doing this repair. Thanks again!

Tony, I'm at a hotel and I'm thinking about getting this washer. Whays your OPINION about this washer is a heavy traffic hotel?

This helped. Thank you.🙏

𝙏𝙤𝙣𝙮'𝙨 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝘽𝙚𝙨𝙩! This is the only way to do it. When you get the solenoid off you can reach up, grope around and put a deep socket on the top bolt. Then snap on a stubby short handled ratchet. It will spin right off. You can reinstall the new starter with just two bolts like the dealers do who charge $1800 for this job. Use a Chinese Advance Auto Parts starter and you can do it again every six months.