The service manual calls the line between the bottom of the filter and the governor a service enhancement on later models your drain plug is your primary oil filtration
I went on to the steiner tractors site and clicked on the dipstick link and you can download the instructiins and in there is the dimensions of the dipstick lengths. And it shows the short one is for the hydraulics and the longer one is in fact engine oil! Good catch Bill!!
Thanks for the update, those old tractors are getting expensive to do anything with. I stopped buying for my collection a few years ago, and anything like that is not worth my shop rate of $50 an hour to bill out to customers unless it's something simple and an hour or so plus small parts. That drain pin in the bell housing is called a giggle pin back in the U'K where i'm originally from. If you want cheaper oil for that tractor, I use walmart TDH "Trans drive hydraulic" in my bigger fordson Majors. it's probably around $60 for 18.9 L here in Manitoba, I haven't seen the bill for the last stuff my dad grabbed for me when grocery shopping last month. I've had Boss lubricants stuff on my trade account is around $80 if i'm in the other town for parts to. Canadian tire might have something cheaper as well. If you have an expensive newer tractor put expensive oil in, these old girls aren't expensive so Walmart's oil is plenty good enough, especially if it leaks like these old machines tend to do. Take care.
Comet cleanser powder works well to sprinkle on a dipstick you flat can't read like your oil stick , it makes the level 100% obvious , baby powder works good too , as long as you wipe the stick off it will hurt nothing , we used to use it when we sticked the tanks at the gas station when we still run the service station in the good old days too LOL
Bill 22 pounds isn"t bad if it stayed the same at a hot idle.i would personally buy a new oil pressure gauge at TSE or Napa a good brand like Stuart Warner or auto meter. those factory gauges wern"t the best when new. especially if its electric. i"m pretty sure that tractor is manual. with a steel , copper or nylon 1/8 inch line bring it oil to register the gauge . BUT LOOKING GREAT. i would of bought some straight run of dom tubing and heim joints and made my own steering links. even with dom tubing being 15 to 20 dollars a foot its probably cheaper than those and we all know you have a killer miller mig just waiting to be fired up again. yes we wont be able to see it but the sense of accomplishment you did it yourself is huge
I don't know Bill. I've had a couple N-series Fords myself and for what you are spending on parts to resurrect that neglected derelict, you could have probably bought yourself a decent shape well maintained 9N/2N/8N. That tractor seems to have been neglected from stem to stern. There's a guy on Craigslist right now who has a non-running 9N for $450 that seems to be in better shape. Good luck though. When it's all done you'll have a nice tight $8000 2N... :-)
@@billstmaxx I understand. But at the end of the day you'll have a tractor that's worth $2500 tops that you have over twice that in it. On a scale from 1 to 10, tractors in the 6-7 range can be cheap to purchase, still require a lot of work and be just as fun without needing to replace all the big expensive parts. Believe me, I've been there. :-)
Exactly, the cotter pin wiggles around as you operate the tractor and keeps the clutch housing drain hole clear of dirt and debris. Otherwise, any oil leaking would eventually fill the housing enough to contaminate the clutch. Were those old Ford guys geniuses or what? :-)
Replace that 10/30 oil With, straight 30 Mineral oil, the oil pressure should increase to around 40PSi. 10/30 oil is too light/thin the cotter pin, under bell housing,, is there to keep the hole open and drain oil that could get on the clutch, vibration will jigger it around,
Hey Bill. When you disc the garden, you might try going on an angle, rather than straight across the furrows. If you go on an angle it will fill in the furrows, and shouldn't knock your kidneys around. lol
you should get into wood working , and build custom caskets LOL ... I am still waiting on you to go to another cemetery , and make a vlog , as strange as it is , I really miss the cemetery videos , I know I am an odd person , like the ground cooker to dig the frost , just the odd stuff we never knew existed ...
Oh the cotter key isn’t correct you use Allen head screw. The hydraulic earl will leak out. Why on earth would you remove the keeper head screw?. Ah now they make oil pumps easy as pie. Build up a vacuum suck it dry. You can save a lot of used oil before dumping them in your jd buckets save them take a sharpie put used oil. Then when you have a bunch take em in. They can take the used oil re refine it filter it make it virgin oil again. Becomes the same stuff safe and same protection. If Canada isn’t doing it,they should start. Plus it costs less.
The cotter key is correct, it's a self cleaning drain for the clutch housing, if there is any amount of oil coming out there the rear crank seal or gearbox input seals or could be both are leaking. usuallly on older stuff black oil is engine, clearer color is transmission. If you put a screw in to seal it up you flood the clutch housing with oil, dry type clutches don't like oil contamination. I've been a farm machinery mechanic over 30 years this leak wouldn't be my first rodeo, fixing many tractors or backhoe loaders.
WOW why is your hydraulic oil so expensive? I know exchange rate, but a 5 gallon bucket is $30-40 here! Even the "good" stuff for CVT/IVT/PowerShift transmissions is only $75-100.
Make sure that your oil filler cap is clean because it provides crank case ventilation
The service manual calls the line between the bottom of the filter and the governor a service enhancement on later models your drain plug is your primary oil filtration
I went on to the steiner tractors site and clicked on the dipstick link and you can download the instructiins and in there is the dimensions of the dipstick lengths. And it shows the short one is for the hydraulics and the longer one is in fact engine oil! Good catch Bill!!
crush washer from a late model honda oil plug works great on that filter housing bolt FYI
Thanks for the update, those old tractors are getting expensive to do anything with. I stopped buying for my collection a few years ago, and anything like that is not worth my shop rate of $50 an hour to bill out to customers unless it's something simple and an hour or so plus small parts. That drain pin in the bell housing is called a giggle pin back in the U'K where i'm originally from. If you want cheaper oil for that tractor, I use walmart TDH "Trans drive hydraulic" in my bigger fordson Majors. it's probably around $60 for 18.9 L here in Manitoba, I haven't seen the bill for the last stuff my dad grabbed for me when grocery shopping last month. I've had Boss lubricants stuff on my trade account is around $80 if i'm in the other town for parts to. Canadian tire might have something cheaper as well. If you have an expensive newer tractor put expensive oil in, these old girls aren't expensive so Walmart's oil is plenty good enough, especially if it leaks like these old machines tend to do. Take care.
Yep, the pin keeps the hole from clogging with dirt….
Comet cleanser powder works well to sprinkle on a dipstick you flat can't read like your oil stick , it makes the level 100% obvious , baby powder works good too , as long as you wipe the stick off it will hurt nothing , we used to use it when we sticked the tanks at the gas station when we still run the service station in the good old days too LOL
Again Bill good job I love that kind of work you do you know your stuff that's for sure good job bill A+
Bill 22 pounds isn"t bad if it stayed the same at a hot idle.i would personally buy a new oil pressure gauge at TSE or Napa a good brand like Stuart Warner or auto meter. those factory gauges wern"t the best when new. especially if its electric. i"m pretty sure that tractor is manual. with a steel , copper or nylon 1/8 inch line bring it oil to register the gauge . BUT LOOKING GREAT. i would of bought some straight run of dom tubing and heim joints and made my own steering links. even with dom tubing being 15 to 20 dollars a foot its probably cheaper than those and we all know you have a killer miller mig just waiting to be fired up again. yes we wont be able to see it but the sense of accomplishment you did it yourself is huge
I don't know Bill. I've had a couple N-series Fords myself and for what you are spending on parts to resurrect that neglected derelict, you could have probably bought yourself a decent shape well maintained 9N/2N/8N. That tractor seems to have been neglected from stem to stern. There's a guy on Craigslist right now who has a non-running 9N for $450 that seems to be in better shape. Good luck though. When it's all done you'll have a nice tight $8000 2N... :-)
He bought it as a project tractor. This video series wouldn't exist if he got one in decent shape.
But where’s the fun and restoration on that?
@@billstmaxx I understand. But at the end of the day you'll have a tractor that's worth $2500 tops that you have over twice that in it. On a scale from 1 to 10, tractors in the 6-7 range can be cheap to purchase, still require a lot of work and be just as fun without needing to replace all the big expensive parts. Believe me, I've been there. :-)
Cotter pin is probably to stop the hole from being gummed up
Exactly, the cotter pin wiggles around as you operate the tractor and keeps the clutch housing drain hole clear of dirt and debris. Otherwise, any oil leaking would eventually fill the housing enough to contaminate the clutch. Were those old Ford guys geniuses or what? :-)
That’s the way my 8n is set up! The bottom line goes straight to the governor and the side line comes from the block/oil pressure gauge.
That sludge in the bottom of the oil filter housing was probably keeping it from leaking, lol
Hey bill the 9n 2n and 8n use 80w 90 gear oil in the rear end
Check the hydraulic oil with the 3 point arms down.
Replace that 10/30 oil With, straight 30 Mineral oil, the oil pressure should increase to around 40PSi. 10/30 oil is too light/thin
the cotter pin, under bell housing,, is there to keep the hole open and drain oil that could get on the clutch, vibration will jigger it around,
Hi loved your video hope you feel well and in these trustingee about the crime vires
Yeah Canada really charges the crap out of use to ship there and from there .
Long is the engine oil or [earl] play on words but yes long dip stick engine the short is for hydraulic stuff. They were but backwards.
Hey Bill. When you disc the garden, you might try going on an angle, rather than straight across the furrows. If you go on an angle it will fill in the furrows, and shouldn't knock your kidneys around. lol
The 2n 8n 9n don't use hydro fluid the lift and trans uses 80/90 gear oil.
Generally in most tractors have a shorter dipstick for the rear end than the long one is for the engine silly mistake some people make
you should get into wood working , and build custom caskets LOL ... I am still waiting on you to go to another cemetery , and make a vlog , as strange as it is , I really miss the cemetery videos , I know I am an odd person , like the ground cooker to dig the frost , just the odd stuff we never knew existed ...
What projects don’t cost this day n time but hey it’s a fix er upper.
those old engines only filter a small percentage of the oil.
Could you brass / bronze braze the leak in the bottom of the oil filter canister ?
Does the hydraulic system have a filter ?
God bless
Wyr
Oh the cotter key isn’t correct you use Allen head screw. The hydraulic earl will leak out. Why on earth would you remove the keeper head screw?. Ah now they make oil pumps easy as pie. Build up a vacuum suck it dry. You can save a lot of used oil before dumping them in your jd buckets save them take a sharpie put used oil. Then when you have a bunch take em in. They can take the used oil re refine it filter it make it virgin oil again. Becomes the same stuff safe and same protection. If Canada isn’t doing it,they should start. Plus it costs less.
The cotter key is correct, it's a self cleaning drain for the clutch housing, if there is any amount of oil coming out there the rear crank seal or gearbox input seals or could be both are leaking. usuallly on older stuff black oil is engine, clearer color is transmission. If you put a screw in to seal it up you flood the clutch housing with oil, dry type clutches don't like oil contamination. I've been a farm machinery mechanic over 30 years this leak wouldn't be my first rodeo, fixing many tractors or backhoe loaders.
WOW why is your hydraulic oil so expensive? I know exchange rate, but a 5 gallon bucket is $30-40 here! Even the "good" stuff for CVT/IVT/PowerShift transmissions is only $75-100.
Could that sludge in the bottom be from bearing flakes ? Babbit bearings, just a guess .
Hi
what is goning on with the red tractor.
It’s not mine.
BILLSTMAXX oh yeah isn’t it the mayors?