KZ1000 valve adjusting part 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- This was just after i got all the measurements done. The exhaust valve on cylinder four is pretty damn tight but the shim and bucket spin freely in there so there is some clearance. Now to order some parts and a shim changing tool.
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Buenas noches pregunto cual es la calibracion de la valbulas de escape i admicion moto kawasaki kz 1000 1978
So did you somehow not need to remove the pickup coil cover to see the marks behind it? I noticed you didn't rotate the engine at all in video two when you started measuring clearance and was wondering how you got accurate measurements without rotating the engine to line up the marks and cam lobes properly before taking a measurement. Am I missing something in the procedure?
I point the cam lobes away from their associated valve and then take a measurement. Im pretty sure the manual has you put the engine in like 2 different positions to check all the clearances. So in position 1 for example, you can measure half the valves. Position 2 you measure the other half. I like my method better because they get done 1 at a time and theres less room to for my dumb ass to get confused lol
@@171apples171 yes it does say to do that for most of these engines from what I've read 1000&1100s. Thanks for the response. But so it's just not recorded when you either turned the crankshaft or back wheel to turn the camshaft lobes then right? I bought one of these for cheap with super low miles and it runs very well after I cleaned the carbs. No mods. It doesn't have a timing chain rattle that increases with speed it has random but soft ticking mostly over cylinders 1&4 and I'm wondering if I need to look in there. I had changed the oil&filter too but it was pretty clean at 3,132 miles I'll have to try to save it with a clean pan if I have to do a valve check right? I haven't bought either of the two valve tools that help get the shims out and I don't want to honestly. The ticking is only present at idle and disappears when throttle is increased or even raced. It starts and warms easily and I have it set to idle at 1,100 rpms. Literally a little throttle makes it go away. Any thoughts? I wouldn't say you're dumb though by the way lol.
How do you keep the chain from jumping time when turning the engine?
I believe the cam chain tensioner stayed on the engine the entire time, i never disengaged the cam chain from the cam shafts. The engine was in time to begin with, just had to change valve shims
The tensioner is automatic so you can put alot of slop in the chain by pushing on it between the cams. This could lead to jumping a tooth if the tensioner is dirty/sticky and the plunger doesnt come right back out, and then you rotate the engine with the sloppy chain. You gotta try pretty hard to jump timing tho. I honestly think the clearance between the cam gears and the head isnt even enough to let the chain come up and off the teeth in that area. Feel free yo ask any questions, im not a master or anything but ive done my fair share of wrenching on these old KZs
My manual says to take out the tensioner before taking the valve cover off.
Should I put it back in?
Did the tapping noise stop after you adjusted the valves?
56BUICKRiviera yeah, do tell
It did, sorry for the slow reply guys. Take a close look at your shims when u get the valve cover off. If theyre tight, youre gonna see signs lf heat and scuffing on the surface of the shim. Thanks for tuning in.
love the cat