The questions I have are 1) Is Shell premium better for cleaning than Shell regular? and 2) does Shell premium clean better than cheaper Top Tier premium gasolines? Shell is the most expensive in the SF Bay Area, with Shell premium about $1/gal more than Costco, which is also a Top Tier gasoline.
Great questions! I can't speak on Costco's behalf however what I can answer is: 1. Yes, shell premium is better than it's regular. Typically every station gets gas made in that area anyways the only difference are the additive formula each company adds to boost the performance within their specs. 2. From what I've seen I believe it performs better than GULF'S PREMIUM. SHELL NITRO has 6x the cleaning agents of regular gas but each fuel company has their premium formula. At the end of the day, unless your manual/car: - asks for premium (higher octane) - has misfires from excess carbon deposits - is pre igniting during the combustion cycle You can stick to regular and use a fuel additive to boost octane level if needed. If you're trying to clean your engine the cleaning additives matter more than the octane rating Hope that helps :)
All I know is, I have a 2020 Ranger 2.3 EB. Says you can run 87 and I drove a good bit to get the miles to E to reset some. I gained a 100 miles to the tank on the Shell. I'm avg. 24 to 25 mpg and still gaining a mile or two. It's leveling out after about two tank fills. I put 89 in the CX-50 and beating the sticker mpg by two. It's worth it to me to pay extra at the pump. If I did the math right, only spending five extra bucks from the mpg gain.
@TwoPair72 with prices rising, 100 miles over any fill up is very welcome. Glad it worked for you. People seem to think I'm selling this fuel option on commission from my pocket lol. Thanks for sharing!
If you want speed up the process, need to perform Italian Tune Ups on a regular basis. At lower combustion temps, short trips, more carbon will develop. Drive the vehicle at 4k rpm for 15 min at highway speeds to get the engine, valves, pistons hot. Then drive at wide open throttle till it shifts, then do a full deceleration to 1500 rpm, repeat 4-5 times. You will see marked difference in carbon removal after only one run. I have done same testing, borescope imaging, engine data logging, and fuel efficiency on my GM 2.4L Ecotec, GDI. Substantial reduction in engine knock, more advance timing, and better mpgs. Being a rental, and previous owned, you wont remove all the carbon, as it is normal aspect of burning hydrocarbons. The cleaner the engine, the longer it will last. Also need to use a premium 100% synthetic oil.
Man I haven't heard of the "italian tune up" since a scotty kilmer video a while back. Yeah cheap oil kills cars especially with some people thinking oil lasts forever lol. Most people are doing short trips and not caring about regular maintenance !
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL The Italian tune up seemed to improve the MPG of a new Camry hybrid I bought (drove to LA and back, MPG went up after at home) and reduced the oil consumption and increased the MPG of a Ducati I own with 37k miles on it (rode it over the Sierras and back, lots of heavy throttle at higher RPMs on emptyish mountain roads).
@@aluisious sounds like fun! Be safe on bikes, too many dumb unsafe drivers out there both cars and bikers that get others killed. A relaxing drive can become a wreck scene in moments
Would love to see a similar video showing the cleaning ability of Chevron premium fuel. My car requires premium and my owners manual recommends Chevron brand. Would be interesting to see if it cleans as well as Shell premium.
I would say as far as processing and refining shell and chevron have separate processes, However because shell refining has more shall we say quality control they are able to justify higher pricing. There are no chevron fuel stations near me. I would say as long as you have the recommended octane level (premium for different people can be 91, 93 etc.) your fuel should be fine as long as you're not filling at some cheap sketchy place where you have to jiggle the handle and spin around 3 times for it work lol
@@aluisious perhaps I should've been more specific in saying the additives package. the heating, distillation etc. of the fuel is the same as far as a base fuel but Shell certainly has it's work cut out for worn, high build-up vehicles. still prefer multi port injection over GDIs which are a nightmare if not regularly cleaned (valves get plugged and super gunked up)
In my experience… everything I put Shell VPower in quiets down and peps up as long as it’s a newer car with knock sensors and variable valve timing. It’s worth the additional 20 cents per gallon it costs compared to regular Shell in my state and I get 10 cents off per gallon using their free rewards program. So for $1-2 more per tank (I usually fill up 10 gallons), it’s a no brainer. When I lived in Florida and it was like 80 cents more per gallon I definitely thought about it more 😅 but in CA it’s a no brainer.
@adrianpadilla2155 damn! If you really are getting nitro v at 10 cents more go for it! Premium fuel in most places are several dollars more per gallon. Given how CA is right now I wouldn't live there if food, utilities, housing, a car and gas were free lol
The point of the experiment was testing the effects of the quality from the additives in the fuel. Using other additives is like saying why did you run that race when you could drive to the finish line lol. This was meant to see if people are paying for a brand name like Shell or if they will genuinely benefit from mechanical/performance improvement. Thanks for sharing
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL I hear ya, for sure. But have you thought about doing a fuel additive video? There aren’t enough fuel additive review videos on TH-cam
@@Pearlio Great suggestion. Currently I'm working on more rookie / DIY friendly content while also trying to grow. Almost at 300 subs and still have plenty to learn!
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL Here in Florida we only have 93 not 91 octane. This car is a high performance turbo car and requires premium and I only run 93 octane. I now only run Shell V Power 93 but when I run WalMart 93 I see more knock and timing being pulled then the shell 93 octane Vpower. When I go to the track I mix 3 gallons of 100 octane unleaded race gas. I can see it on the data logs. Fuel economy regular driving shell v power is slightly better than non top tier 93 octane.
@@mhk67091 not sure which jumped out more at me there. Florida not having 91 or the fact that walmart offers gas??? I know some walmarts do tires but like a gas station? that's cool
Seems like it cleaned it a bit. I would say that a fueld additive detergent that comes in bottles would be more useful and then the Shell is just there to maintain and to prevent carbon build up.
I've tried the lucas fuel additive for cleaning injectors and seen little if any changes in performance. The shell fuel was certainly effective, the concern is the commitment to pricing and patience. Shell says that this fuel doesn't just clean but prevents build-up so I'd recommend people not let it get bad.
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL I watched chris fix video on a one time use of techron and nothing really changed. I think the results you've gotten despite taking several months is already great. Thanks for the video and amazing commitment.
That’s a great video my opinion is if it’s working even slowly improving yeah it’s worth and just because of your awesome video I will switch to shell thank you and have a great day
Oil in a spark plug well will be a valve cover seal issue, not piston ring, imho. The crankcase ventilation will regulate pressure in the valve cover area, even with blowby. Older BMWs are notorious for the valve cover leaks from experience, as they used poor quality rubber.
Thanks for sharing, the pcv was replaced as I showed for better ventilation. As far as the valve cover and gasket and spark well gaskets, I did let her know that they would need eventual replacing but not my car not my call ya know? Luckily there's no more oil showing, and her truck is doing relatively well apart from what I would recommend being 4 new brake calipers and brackets and a flush with new brake fluid ~ Work smart
I would assume it did however I would not like to deceive anyone. There was a fuel additive the owner added specifically to clean injectors before I could check them so I'd hate to tell you it was the gas if it was the additive that worked instead. The Nitro + formula does claim to "target and destroy deposits and future build up of fuel injectors"
Thank you for taking the time to do this analysis. Seriously I use Nitro + only on my sports cars and when I’m going to the track. 🤷 they don’t see much action aside from the occasional weekend and track use. I would recommend using Amsoil direct injection cleaner with every oil change.
@Meditationrelaxinghealing correct it does advertise to prevent buildup from occurring however without committing to a 100% cleaning timeline followed by a 1 - 3 year following up to see common commuting with a solid mix of city miles and highway miles while the vehicle is untouched by extra additives such as fuel injector cleaner
Because it claims to also have preventative build up properties new cars may benefit from not allowing the accumulation in the first place. For it to be affective in really bad build-up, expect to be using it for a WHILE
I hate to be “that guy”, but premium vs regular unleaded isn’t about cleaning additives. Octane selection is almost exclusive to the engines compression ratio and ignition timing. Isn’t it more efficient (cheaper) to use the same, or similar, detergent package in all octane ratings sharing the same branding?
I didn't introduce this fuel to the owner for the sake of performance (although it was certainly a byproduct during the experiment). The additives in Nitro V claim to remove carbon buildup which as you heard was able to remove buildup of carbon deposits on her oil rings thus to date she hasn't had any oil blow by to the piston head or the spark plugs. 100% agree cost-wise an additive to recommended standard octane fuel is preferred when attempting to achieve the same result while saving money. In this case, it did its job (roughly). The financial commitment may lead many to go for fuel injector cleaning additives and fuel stabilizers/detergent additives. Thank you for sharing and don't worry you're not that guy, I AM 😎
Ok..Nissan Rogue/185 HP/ Designed for 87 octane fuel..Just use a great fuel treatment..My choice is Star Tron Fuel Enzyme Treatment..Rogue is known for great torque/Bottom end HP..Gas mileage is always questionable..Use 0w20-30 Syn Oil/ Class 4 spec every 5000 miles...
personally 3k to 5k is ideal so I'm with you on the 5000 mi change interval or the time interval (ex. 12 months or 75000 miles) and for sure additives are cheaper than gas (especially nowadays) and I only use Full synthetic oil but definitely stick to whatever your manufacturer recommends. We must be responsible with the info we share. It's a short jump from using a different oil viscosity to can I use cooking or tanning oil? to ill just use water. If it asks for 5W-30 then that's what it gets. I've done a 0 degree freeze test with Full synthetic mobile 1 vs Castrol synthetic blend both 5W-30 did well which proved that even sitting overnight in ice, the right oil in your car doesn't need to be thinner unless you live in a frozen tundra lol or thicker unless you're driving through a volcano :) ~ Work Smart
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL who makes 100% synthetic does valvoline and what is it called? What's about Castrol oil or shell? amsoil does but I can't get it here easily.
@jedi-mic bummer. Excluding amsoil you can look into mobile 1, valvoline, royal purple, Castrol (gtx is okay but their Edge line seems to have superior additives). The main thing are the additives. If you're looking for anti foaming, anti sludge build up, film protection (oil leaves a small film over metal components upon contact which is important when starting your vehicle because of the time it take the engine circulate oil). I did a small oil freeze test comparing full synthetic to synthetic blend and they both handled cold fine but the full synthetic definitely is better for both extremes of temperature (lowest it gets to 10 -14 degrees F here). Find the additives you feel your car needs most and if all else fails....learn to ride a bike 🤣
i suspect for most cars, probably not. however, i have a 2018 regal with a 2.0 turbo and it says premium recommended. it isn't _necessary_ or you'll damage the engine, it just really means if you wanna unlock more of the engines performance potential. i have run it for hundreds of miles on regular 87 octane and it runs just fine. it just has less pep. i don't push my car often so, i usually use reg 87 and just go from there. however, it can be fun to warm up the engine and then go do a bit of spirited driving from time to time and i can notice the extra power when using premium.
There are fuel additives that boost the octane levels of base fuels so if there are hot spots or pre ignitions causing misfires that is a cheaper route to fix that with more worn engines. For porshes and other cars that are REQUIRE premium additives are much cheaper than the inflation we pay for gas. While driving this vehicle I honestly don't see a major difference given it calls for 87 regular. Thank you for Sharing :)
@@Freddy_Confetti no kidding! I love being home getting the most out of my rent. Going outside in this economy is like leaving open windows with an air conditioner or heater running
I have always and will always run my car on Vpower. I know she runs clean, and the exhaust tips have no carbon build-up. Pulls like a train. Along with the fuel, I service the car 2k miles earlier. With gear box oil changed 30k to 40k miles. Rear diff changed 60k. In terms of turbo: I turn the car on, wait 30 to 40sec to let oil go round the engine and all the computers to speak to one another. At the end I let it tick over after a run. 30sec to 1min. Gets some oil round the turbo fins. The car, Jaguar XE 2.0 T R sport.
Take care of it! I've seen jaguars even older ones cost owners close to 1000$ for a damn water pump replacement. Always good to take care of your investments.
Your octane of premium is lower in the US than the UK, the premium is 99 octane what is it there? Do you know what the additive package is in the fuel? I think you're better off just using injector cleaner I put diesel injector cleaner in my petrol/gasoline and that seem to work really well. I've heard about people using isopropanol not tried it myself and don't know how well it works also 105 lacquer thinner supposed to be good not tried it. Anybody hands let me know!!
@jedi-mic for shell highest I've seen is 93. Essentially it's how resistant to explosions/pre igniting is. Fuel injector cleaner only goes so far with efficiency and my main goal was the additives that cleaned the carbon deposits. 99 octane is nice. Not a crazy fan of paint thinner or other chemicals randomly used to clean but hey if it works it works!
I've been using premium fuel/high test gasoline since car was new (7yrs ago) because my car is Direct injection only & the power/response increase is needed in my n/a car....i know it costs more, but i do get better mileage (5-7%) than the manufacturers claim
GDI is a double-sided sword lol people love em but the cleaning/buildup AND Price on alot of the components push others toward the standard multiport injection. Aww jeeezzz lol Thanks for sharing Mr. Garrison! Since Mr. Slave isn't here I won't make an easy direct injection joke (oh Jeezus chrysssss)
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL Lol😀 Yeh, GDI caught me off guard when I bought my car.....but I also use a GDI specific upper engine spray cleaner (through a vacuum line... engine running etc) PS, Mr slave has run off with Mr hat & I'm worried 🙁
@@mrgarrison3516 also yeah additives can come in clutch because there's a lot of labor to taking apart certain intake portions to get to those gunked up valves. I've seen walnut sand blasting that leaves them looking NEW.
Tighten down extra ?
Thats just being silly.
Another big hype, just like Amsoil!!!
think so? Have you tried amsoil and been disappointed?
The lab analysis is legit.
The questions I have are 1) Is Shell premium better for cleaning than Shell regular? and 2) does Shell premium clean better than cheaper Top Tier premium gasolines? Shell is the most expensive in the SF Bay Area, with Shell premium about $1/gal more than Costco, which is also a Top Tier gasoline.
Great questions!
I can't speak on Costco's behalf however what I can answer is:
1. Yes, shell premium is better than it's regular. Typically every station gets gas made in that area anyways the only difference are the additive formula each company adds to boost the performance within their specs.
2. From what I've seen I believe it performs better than GULF'S PREMIUM. SHELL NITRO has 6x the cleaning agents of regular gas but each fuel company has their premium formula.
At the end of the day, unless your manual/car:
- asks for premium (higher octane)
- has misfires from excess carbon deposits
- is pre igniting during the combustion cycle
You can stick to regular and use a fuel additive to boost octane level if needed.
If you're trying to clean your engine the cleaning additives matter more than the octane rating
Hope that helps :)
All I know is, I have a 2020 Ranger 2.3 EB. Says you can run 87 and I drove a good bit to get the miles to E to reset some. I gained a 100 miles to the tank on the Shell. I'm avg. 24 to 25 mpg and still gaining a mile or two. It's leveling out after about two tank fills. I put 89 in the CX-50 and beating the sticker mpg by two. It's worth it to me to pay extra at the pump. If I did the math right, only spending five extra bucks from the mpg gain.
@TwoPair72 with prices rising, 100 miles over any fill up is very welcome. Glad it worked for you. People seem to think I'm selling this fuel option on commission from my pocket lol. Thanks for sharing!
Not a scam. But difference is only noticeable if religiously used without mixing with other gasoline.
True. Worst case scenario, get some good sneakers and start walking
If you want speed up the process, need to perform Italian Tune Ups on a regular basis. At lower combustion temps, short trips, more carbon will develop. Drive the vehicle at 4k rpm for 15 min at highway speeds to get the engine, valves, pistons hot. Then drive at wide open throttle till it shifts, then do a full deceleration to 1500 rpm, repeat 4-5 times. You will see marked difference in carbon removal after only one run. I have done same testing, borescope imaging, engine data logging, and fuel efficiency on my GM 2.4L Ecotec, GDI. Substantial reduction in engine knock, more advance timing, and better mpgs. Being a rental, and previous owned, you wont remove all the carbon, as it is normal aspect of burning hydrocarbons. The cleaner the engine, the longer it will last. Also need to use a premium 100% synthetic oil.
Man I haven't heard of the "italian tune up" since a scotty kilmer video a while back. Yeah cheap oil kills cars especially with some people thinking oil lasts forever lol. Most people are doing short trips and not caring about regular maintenance !
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL th-cam.com/video/5C9Ie4BcYew/w-d-xo.htmlsi=leleysyRCUnVlPVB
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL The Italian tune up seemed to improve the MPG of a new Camry hybrid I bought (drove to LA and back, MPG went up after at home) and reduced the oil consumption and increased the MPG of a Ducati I own with 37k miles on it (rode it over the Sierras and back, lots of heavy throttle at higher RPMs on emptyish mountain roads).
@@aluisious sounds like fun! Be safe on bikes, too many dumb unsafe drivers out there both cars and bikers that get others killed. A relaxing drive can become a wreck scene in moments
Would love to see a similar video showing the cleaning ability of Chevron premium fuel. My car requires premium and my owners manual recommends Chevron brand. Would be interesting to see if it cleans as well as Shell premium.
I would say as far as processing and refining shell and chevron have separate processes, However because shell refining has more shall we say quality control they are able to justify higher pricing. There are no chevron fuel stations near me. I would say as long as you have the recommended octane level (premium for different people can be 91, 93 etc.) your fuel should be fine as long as you're not filling at some cheap sketchy place where you have to jiggle the handle and spin around 3 times for it work lol
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL There is no difference in refining in California. All the gas comes from the same refinery.
@@aluisious perhaps I should've been more specific in saying the additives package. the heating, distillation etc. of the fuel is the same as far as a base fuel but Shell certainly has it's work cut out for worn, high build-up vehicles. still prefer multi port injection over GDIs which are a nightmare if not regularly cleaned (valves get plugged and super gunked up)
In my experience… everything I put Shell VPower in quiets down and peps up as long as it’s a newer car with knock sensors and variable valve timing. It’s worth the additional 20 cents per gallon it costs compared to regular Shell in my state and I get 10 cents off per gallon using their free rewards program. So for $1-2 more per tank (I usually fill up 10 gallons), it’s a no brainer. When I lived in Florida and it was like 80 cents more per gallon I definitely thought about it more 😅 but in CA it’s a no brainer.
@adrianpadilla2155 damn! If you really are getting nitro v at 10 cents more go for it! Premium fuel in most places are several dollars more per gallon. Given how CA is right now I wouldn't live there if food, utilities, housing, a car and gas were free lol
Bro why didn’t you use some fuel additive instead to save some cash? Have you tried adding some to each fill up?
The point of the experiment was testing the effects of the quality from the additives in the fuel. Using other additives is like saying why did you run that race when you could drive to the finish line lol. This was meant to see if people are paying for a brand name like Shell or if they will genuinely benefit from mechanical/performance improvement. Thanks for sharing
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL I hear ya, for sure. But have you thought about doing a fuel additive video? There aren’t enough fuel additive review videos on TH-cam
@@Pearlio Great suggestion. Currently I'm working on more rookie / DIY friendly content while also trying to grow. Almost at 300 subs and still have plenty to learn!
I run shell V Power 93 in my Corolla GR which requires 91 or higher octane.
notice any changes in performance or fuel economy between the octanes?
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL Here in Florida we only have 93 not 91 octane. This car is a high performance turbo car and requires premium and I only run 93 octane. I now only run Shell V Power 93 but when I run WalMart 93 I see more knock and timing being pulled then the shell 93 octane Vpower. When I go to the track I mix 3 gallons of 100 octane unleaded race gas. I can see it on the data logs. Fuel economy regular driving shell v power is slightly better than non top tier 93 octane.
@@mhk67091 not sure which jumped out more at me there. Florida not having 91 or the fact that walmart offers gas??? I know some walmarts do tires but like a gas station? that's cool
Seems like it cleaned it a bit. I would say that a fueld additive detergent that comes in bottles would be more useful and then the Shell is just there to maintain and to prevent carbon build up.
I've tried the lucas fuel additive for cleaning injectors and seen little if any changes in performance. The shell fuel was certainly effective, the concern is the commitment to pricing and patience. Shell says that this fuel doesn't just clean but prevents build-up so I'd recommend people not let it get bad.
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL I watched chris fix video on a one time use of techron and nothing really changed. I think the results you've gotten despite taking several months is already great. Thanks for the video and amazing commitment.
@@zeppkfw Appreciate the kind words zepp, knowledge is power
That’s a great video my opinion is if it’s working even slowly improving yeah it’s worth and just because of your awesome video I will switch to shell thank you and have a great day
I'm glad you enjoyed I'd like to know more of what people would like to see. Gas is important but regular maintenance will keep you going for years :)
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL sounds good brother if you can do any videos about motor oil’s intervals mobil1 and others comparing thank you and have a great day
@@konstantinostselios1129 thanks for the suggestion
Oil in a spark plug well will be a valve cover seal issue, not piston ring, imho. The crankcase ventilation will regulate pressure in the valve cover area, even with blowby. Older BMWs are notorious for the valve cover leaks from experience, as they used poor quality rubber.
Thanks for sharing, the pcv was replaced as I showed for better ventilation. As far as the valve cover and gasket and spark well gaskets, I did let her know that they would need eventual replacing but not my car not my call ya know? Luckily there's no more oil showing, and her truck is doing relatively well apart from what I would recommend being 4 new brake calipers and brackets and a flush with new brake fluid
~ Work smart
Would you happen to know if the Shell gasoline cleaned the Nissan's fuel injectors? Thanks for the informative video on Shell V-Power gasoline!
I would assume it did however I would not like to deceive anyone. There was a fuel additive the owner added specifically to clean injectors before I could check them so I'd hate to tell you it was the gas if it was the additive that worked instead. The Nitro + formula does claim to "target and destroy deposits and future build up of fuel injectors"
Thank you for taking the time to do this analysis. Seriously
I use Nitro + only on my sports cars and when I’m going to the track. 🤷 they don’t see much action aside from the occasional weekend and track use.
I would recommend using Amsoil direct injection cleaner with every oil change.
@pv4083 I hear good things about amsoil, haven't personally used any of their products. Thanks for sharing :)
The thing is it doesn't build new deposits. Its even removes old deposits. It means it worth it.
@Meditationrelaxinghealing correct it does advertise to prevent buildup from occurring however without committing to a 100% cleaning timeline followed by a 1 - 3 year following up to see common commuting with a solid mix of city miles and highway miles while the vehicle is untouched by extra additives such as fuel injector cleaner
Seems like it’s worth it to do it periodically if a car is bought new or a few years old and the carbon isn’t built up too bad
Because it claims to also have preventative build up properties new cars may benefit from not allowing the accumulation in the first place. For it to be affective in really bad build-up, expect to be using it for a WHILE
I hate to be “that guy”, but premium vs regular unleaded isn’t about cleaning additives. Octane selection is almost exclusive to the engines compression ratio and ignition timing. Isn’t it more efficient (cheaper) to use the same, or similar, detergent package in all octane ratings sharing the same branding?
I didn't introduce this fuel to the owner for the sake of performance (although it was certainly a byproduct during the experiment). The additives in Nitro V claim to remove carbon buildup which as you heard was able to remove buildup of carbon deposits on her oil rings thus to date she hasn't had any oil blow by to the piston head or the spark plugs. 100% agree cost-wise an additive to recommended standard octane fuel is preferred when attempting to achieve the same result while saving money. In this case, it did its job (roughly). The financial commitment may lead many to go for fuel injector cleaning additives and fuel stabilizers/detergent additives. Thank you for sharing and don't worry you're not that guy, I AM 😎
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL I see now. Shell is marketing this additive package in their premium fuel only. Thanks for the methodical test!
Ok..Nissan Rogue/185 HP/ Designed for 87 octane fuel..Just use a great fuel treatment..My choice is Star Tron Fuel Enzyme Treatment..Rogue is known for great torque/Bottom end HP..Gas mileage is always questionable..Use 0w20-30 Syn Oil/ Class 4 spec every 5000 miles...
personally 3k to 5k is ideal so I'm with you on the 5000 mi change interval or the time interval (ex. 12 months or 75000 miles) and for sure additives are cheaper than gas (especially nowadays) and I only use Full synthetic oil but definitely stick to whatever your manufacturer recommends. We must be responsible with the info we share. It's a short jump from using a different oil viscosity to can I use cooking or tanning oil? to ill just use water. If it asks for 5W-30 then that's what it gets. I've done a 0 degree freeze test with Full synthetic mobile 1 vs Castrol synthetic blend both 5W-30 did well which proved that even sitting overnight in ice, the right oil in your car doesn't need to be thinner unless you live in a frozen tundra lol or thicker unless you're driving through a volcano :)
~ Work Smart
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL who makes 100% synthetic does valvoline and what is it called? What's about Castrol oil or shell? amsoil does but I can't get it here easily.
@jedi-mic bummer. Excluding amsoil you can look into mobile 1, valvoline, royal purple, Castrol (gtx is okay but their Edge line seems to have superior additives). The main thing are the additives. If you're looking for anti foaming, anti sludge build up, film protection (oil leaves a small film over metal components upon contact which is important when starting your vehicle because of the time it take the engine circulate oil). I did a small oil freeze test comparing full synthetic to synthetic blend and they both handled cold fine but the full synthetic definitely is better for both extremes of temperature (lowest it gets to 10 -14 degrees F here). Find the additives you feel your car needs most and if all else fails....learn to ride a bike 🤣
Chooch it
lol back in the day my old friends and I would call each other that
Yeahhh budday@@TOOL_TECHNICAL
i suspect for most cars, probably not. however, i have a 2018 regal with a 2.0 turbo and it says premium recommended. it isn't _necessary_ or you'll damage the engine, it just really means if you wanna unlock more of the engines performance potential. i have run it for hundreds of miles on regular 87 octane and it runs just fine. it just has less pep.
i don't push my car often so, i usually use reg 87 and just go from there. however, it can be fun to warm up the engine and then go do a bit of spirited driving from time to time and i can notice the extra power when using premium.
There are fuel additives that boost the octane levels of base fuels so if there are hot spots or pre ignitions causing misfires that is a cheaper route to fix that with more worn engines. For porshes and other cars that are REQUIRE premium additives are much cheaper than the inflation we pay for gas. While driving this vehicle I honestly don't see a major difference given it calls for 87 regular. Thank you for Sharing :)
It is hard to look at you with the ring in your nose.
I don't need you to watch me, just the video
$5 a gallon is the biggest shocker
@@Freddy_Confetti no kidding! I love being home getting the most out of my rent. Going outside in this economy is like leaving open windows with an air conditioner or heater running
@@TOOL_TECHNICALCalifornia?
I have always and will always run my car on Vpower.
I know she runs clean, and the exhaust tips have no carbon build-up.
Pulls like a train. Along with the fuel, I service the car 2k miles earlier. With gear box oil changed 30k to 40k miles. Rear diff changed 60k.
In terms of turbo: I turn the car on, wait 30 to 40sec to let oil go round the engine and all the computers to speak to one another. At the end I let it tick over after a run. 30sec to 1min. Gets some oil round the turbo fins.
The car, Jaguar XE 2.0 T R sport.
Take care of it! I've seen jaguars even older ones cost owners close to 1000$ for a damn water pump replacement. Always good to take care of your investments.
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL prevention is better than cure
@@mishalchotai4721 for sure. Prepare and prevent don't repair and repent
Your octane of premium is lower in the US than the UK, the premium is 99 octane what is it there? Do you know what the additive package is in the fuel? I think you're better off just using injector cleaner I put diesel injector cleaner in my petrol/gasoline and that seem to work really well. I've heard about people using isopropanol not tried it myself and don't know how well it works also 105 lacquer thinner supposed to be good not tried it. Anybody hands let me know!!
@jedi-mic for shell highest I've seen is 93. Essentially it's how resistant to explosions/pre igniting is. Fuel injector cleaner only goes so far with efficiency and my main goal was the additives that cleaned the carbon deposits. 99 octane is nice. Not a crazy fan of paint thinner or other chemicals randomly used to clean but hey if it works it works!
top tier fuel is all i run
@vector150 that's good! if you can afford it and not damage the planet too much it's a win win 👍🏼
I've been using premium fuel/high test gasoline since car was new (7yrs ago) because my car is Direct injection only & the power/response increase is needed in my n/a car....i know it costs more, but i do get better mileage (5-7%) than the manufacturers claim
GDI is a double-sided sword lol people love em but the cleaning/buildup AND Price on alot of the components push others toward the standard multiport injection.
Aww jeeezzz lol Thanks for sharing Mr. Garrison! Since Mr. Slave isn't here I won't make an easy direct injection joke (oh Jeezus chrysssss)
@@TOOL_TECHNICAL
Lol😀
Yeh, GDI caught me off guard when I bought my car.....but I also use a GDI specific upper engine spray cleaner (through a vacuum line... engine running etc)
PS, Mr slave has run off with Mr hat & I'm worried 🙁
@@mrgarrison3516 Don't be too worried, he's still a bottom wherever he may be..
@@mrgarrison3516 also yeah additives can come in clutch because there's a lot of labor to taking apart certain intake portions to get to those gunked up valves. I've seen walnut sand blasting that leaves them looking NEW.