Really interesting video. Lots of fun too. …. You have a voice that could read the phone book, and still make it entertaining. Thank you Ronnie. Thank you Joe.
I recognised the 4011 chip as a quad, 2 input NAND gate straight away. :) Mainly because one of the first electronics projects I built as a teenager in late 70s used it. An electronic dice.
Excellent troubleshooting video. Yes those little puzzles are what drew me to electronics and then software work decades ago. Way too much BS with software now. Lots more fun tracking down circuits like this in my Getaway pin. It’s a sense of accomplishment that’s hard to get anywhere else. Great job.
@@LyonsArcade Ron, you are helping me and many others to keep pinball alive. The first time my own kids played pinball was in our own basement on my Black Knight 2000. Through school they would bring friends home to play and it became a great teaching tool over time. Now I have 1 son who is a computer engineer and the other is an electrical engineer. They both love your channel too!
A little trick to quickly see smoke....use a laser pointer. It will refract the laser long before you see the smoke. Also help point point the origin of the smoke.
I think it's the phase locked loop integrated zonal bi state transducer isn't handshaking the reactive feedback low enable FET driver coaxial opto coupler and that makes the filtering oscillate...cheers.
My lift ramp on Gottlieb Raven the diode was loose and got lucky that only blowen a chunk off my transistor , and not went through the other boards as you get a EM force when the coil power is released so it can backflow high voltage , and cook everything...
Oooo, can't wait 'til the music part! :-D So.. one time I brain farted when replacing a voltage regulator and stuck it in backwards (duh.. the bump is supposed to go THAT way!), then I quickly paid for it by having an electrolytic cap vent with a lot of pressure in my face. Luckily it wasn't hot! But nothing like smelling like that mistake for the rest of the day... Heh 45:05 There's the music! :-D
Those 1811 ohm caps... I've never seen a capacitor like that. But they are labeled C##. Learn something new every day! I caught the fuse blow. Just caught it before you move the camera. :)
That's the switch on the left side of the ramp that you roll over, it may be unplugged or just needs cleaned underneath the ramp. There will be two blades and when you roll over that switch it should touch the two blades together, then they should come apart if the ball isn't on it...
If that not a lump of sodder between a switch that flipper coil next to it isn't wired right n something missing from that dodgy tilt switch Looks like a wire has come off the far right of the lightboard as I see a solder contact with a wire missing unless it's not used Looks like something not connected properly on or near the drop targets vs soldering job I see a tiny gap in a bare wire and some very rusty wire pinned to the playfeild near the vortex thing Besides I'm sure Ron would never put a cap in backwards especially one that big vs eyesight lol and what nitwit removed the Mylar Pretty sure I saw a fuse blow too as I saw a flash just after you fixed that circuit board
I needed a battery pack that supposedly is no longer available. I contacted the company that made the pack for this other company and they said they did have a different pack that fit, so I ordered it. The box arrived yesterday and the box was a 6 inch square cardboard box I opened it up and there was heavy brown packing paper and it looked like they had not put anything in the box, but I unrolled the paper and inside was a tiny AA battery case that is not going to work, but that's not the crazy part I live in 500 SQ feet, very small and the kitchen is only 10p SQ feet and has 1 counter I opened the box and put the battery pack on the counter. 10 minutes later it is NOWHERE to be found. I think I have dementia starting. I must have moved it, but I can't find it and have no clue where I put it. I was going to return it, but since I can't find it I guess I won't be able to return it. I just can't remember what I did with it I have always been a little absent minded, but it has gotten worse in the past two years Seeing the remote battery pack made me think about sharing this. The thing they sent looks like that only it has a small phone battery type connector. It takes 6 batteries, so it is not that small, and it is black so I should see it, but I don't. Maybe I threw it out by mistake but I clearly remember setting it on the counter. I have noticed these memory gaps where the next day I see I did stuff and don't have any memory of doing it. It is very disturbing Getting old sucks Being sick sucks even more
I believe it is for refreshing the displays. The error message flashes in the displays at the same frequency as the blanking LED and then keeps a similar interval. The display system works by sending each character to its own set of segments sequentially so not all the segments have to be individually wired to a control unit. Would take a bunch of wires to do all five displays with 7 characters of 7 segments. This sequential scanning allows tensome wires per display unit instead on fiftysome. When the blanking signal is off, the memory for the display content can be updated, then when a blanking pulse is given, it initiates a quick scan through the elements to send the memory contents over. This is done so rapidly that unless you roll your eyes while looking, or try to record them with a different framerate, the displays appear quite steady. EDIT: Oh, there are more than 7 segments per character in these displays. Some time ago, there was a video on this channel where a wrong capacitor value was put in the NE555 based circuit that timed the blanking intervals. This caused only the two least significant digits of each display to illuminate before a new scan was initiated, making it look like there might have been a more severe problem with the board that had just been worked on. Now, why the game won't start if there is no blanking signal... I can only guess but I can offer an educated guess. At least on the board in question in the previous paragraph, there was a straight and inverted blanking signal going to different lines from the NE555. Probably this other one tells the board when the display memory can be updated, and if it is missing, the game will probably stay stuck waiting to update the display memory. It can be more complicated, but I'm afraid not much less.
Guessing the oversized speaker has pushed a solenoid supply wire onto a switch connection? Right let’s watch now….. Edit. Ah. Completely wrong. Great video. Now, why did the fuse blow…. (Grabs popcorn for Part 2) You got me with the F14 refurb series. I have a project F14 inbound. Batt damage, rubbish playfield the lot. Thanks!!!! 😉
+Ruaraidh McDonald-Walker, asks _"Now, why did the fuse blow…."_ That's called foreshadowing… Stay tuned for part two, same Bot-Time, same Bot-Channel!
These ceramic capacitors are usually rated 50V or 63V just because the ceramic material is that good insulator that makes the manufacture of lower voltage rating obsolete._
Won’t cause this issue but I think I saw a broken diode on a coil in what would be the upper right area of the playfield. Could be wrong but thought I saw it
Always hated throwing that switch after you "think" you found the reason your game was on fire. Just recently smoked a power supply in a Space Shuttle.
Well, when the owner started marking things with blue tape, and he marked that part of the wiring harness... he was actually right, but not for the reason he thought. I played more video games than pinball, but Pinbot was a fun machine... I have no idea how many quarters I spent on it.
I was going to say, if those are LEDs they're the best LEDs ever! But if course they're not LEDs… We're good as long as they keep makin' the '44s -- which, sadly, isn't likely to continue that much longer. It might be time to think about stocking up and buying a few dozen (hundred?) gross of bulbs now so that you never run out!
I think we'll always be able to talk Chyna into making us a run or two, they still use those little incandescents in all kinds of things so there's still a bunch of factories that can make them (at the moment at least!)
The gray and yellow wire on the flipper looks melted or smashed or something. Maybe somebody dropped the playfield and it got crushed on the front apron and has other stuff bent up or shorted? Eh, I guess not. Nice work fixing it up!
Actually, when you test components 'in-circuit' having one not like the others is not necessarily pointing to a problem, because of what else follows in the circuit. If you find something that is odd, before you go swapping it out, you need to look at the schematic. If it is connected similarly to another circuit and that circuit measures differently, then you probably have an issue. However you can't always be sure without checking the schematic first.
+dablakh0l, writes _"Actually, when you test components 'in-circuit' having one not like the others is not necessarily pointing to a problem, because of what else follows in the circuit."_ Ah, but that's where the trickiness comes in… he's checking pins that all have the same circuits following them (i.e. they're all going to the switch matrix, just different rows or columns).
The sound is so weird.. And off kilter... Definitely something electronic circuit board thingy.. Guarantee it's a dohicky not attached to the whatchamacallit. That can be confused with the thingamajig.. Simple fix.. just look at the schematics and just say yep that's it.. the thingamajigs are exactly like the whatchamacallits.. Total perfect sense..
slap some batteries in there Will! nice to see engineers installed redundancy but if webb telescope gets slapped with x-class solar flare Will that hurt the chips?
One place I worked for always used "Close enough for Government Work", because we never went to the much higher level of "Close enough for the girls we date"...Why? Because it was government work...always surprised me at the amount of paperwork those government types want, but they allow such crappy work...then again look at what we have...so...LOL.
Thanks Ron & Joe!! Looks fantastic, sorry for causing more work for you guys. Knew you could sort it out.
No problem James, your blue tape actually showed us where all the issues were, we figured it out buddy :) It was a blast to work on....
Cool pin James. How far is your drive to Ron and Joe? I would love to visit their store but I live in RI.
Really interesting video. Lots of fun too. …. You have a voice that could read the phone book, and still make it entertaining. Thank you Ronnie. Thank you Joe.
Thank you Mark, glad you enjoyed it!
Wow, again another well love pinball machine, your definitely becoming the go to repair person for the pinball aficionado’s crowd.
I recognised the 4011 chip as a quad, 2 input NAND gate straight away. :) Mainly because one of the first electronics projects I built as a teenager in late 70s used it. An electronic dice.
My memory is never good enough to keep them all straight, I have to look them up :)
PIN BOT truly classic pinball machine..
So nice that the owner has the manual to the pinball machine that means you won’t have to look it up on
That's true, thank you for watching Clark, we appreciate you always hanging out with us...
Great detective work fixing it! That machine really looks great with the lights off. Looks like it will be a lot of fun to play too!
Thank you Vince, we appreciate it!
Excellent troubleshooting video. Yes those little puzzles are what drew me to electronics and then software work decades ago. Way too much BS with software now. Lots more fun tracking down circuits like this in my Getaway pin. It’s a sense of accomplishment that’s hard to get anywhere else.
Great job.
I may be a pinball geek , but I would much prefer to watch Ron work his way through this PINBOT than anything on tv these days.
Thank you Paul that's very nice of you to say!
@@LyonsArcade Ron, you are helping me and many others to keep pinball alive. The first time my own kids played pinball was in our own basement on my Black Knight 2000. Through school they would bring friends home to play and it became a great teaching tool over time. Now I have 1 son who is a computer engineer and the other is an electrical engineer. They both love your channel too!
That's a nice clean machine....So many wires.....looking forward to part 2....and some play.
Yes it's a good little game! We'll have the next installment up Wednesday, see you then!
Always loved the light show on this machine
Nice fined,...as always Ron!! Your good!!
Thank you Patrick, we appreciate it!
A little trick to quickly see smoke....use a laser pointer. It will refract the laser long before you see the smoke. Also help point point the origin of the smoke.
I think it's the phase locked loop integrated zonal bi state transducer isn't handshaking the reactive feedback low enable FET driver coaxial opto coupler and that makes the filtering oscillate...cheers.
You're confusing this with the DeLorean again!
I do enjoy watching these videos and learning to troubleshoot pinball machines. I really want to buy a pinball machine to restore.
Thank you for watching, viscountalpha!
My lift ramp on Gottlieb Raven the diode was loose and got lucky that only blowen a chunk off my transistor , and not went through the other boards as you get a EM force when the coil power is released so it can backflow high voltage , and cook everything...
Those transistors like to blow a big chunk off when they short for sure :)
Good stuff!
Great detective work as always!! Thanks brotha!
Oooo, can't wait 'til the music part! :-D So.. one time I brain farted when replacing a voltage regulator and stuck it in backwards (duh.. the bump is supposed to go THAT way!), then I quickly paid for it by having an electrolytic cap vent with a lot of pressure in my face. Luckily it wasn't hot! But nothing like smelling like that mistake for the rest of the day... Heh
45:05 There's the music! :-D
I know enough to get myself in trouble! I got the tilt switch right but not exactly what was wrong.
What ever happened to the clip with Dahlia Skye?
What is the purpose of the mylar that was removed?
This is my all time favorite game!!
Awesome work. Great video! Please keep them coming!
Those 1811 ohm caps... I've never seen a capacitor like that. But they are labeled C##. Learn something new every day!
I caught the fuse blow. Just caught it before you move the camera. :)
I was definitely thinking the flippers were messed up and causing issues with wiring
That was basically what it was!
FLIR might be good for checking for overheating parts before the smoke comes out.
Love the videos!! I have a Pin-Bot with switch 40 error on boot. but plays perfect. Any ideas?
That's the switch on the left side of the ramp that you roll over, it may be unplugged or just needs cleaned underneath the ramp. There will be two blades and when you roll over that switch it should touch the two blades together, then they should come apart if the ball isn't on it...
@@LyonsArcade ty ramp works fine. seems to go away after I start it up and play. I will definitely check those contacts.
If that not a lump of sodder between a switch that flipper coil next to it isn't wired right n something missing from that dodgy tilt switch
Looks like a wire has come off the far right of the lightboard as I see a solder contact with a wire missing unless it's not used
Looks like something not connected properly on or near the drop targets vs soldering job I see a tiny gap in a bare wire and some very rusty wire pinned to the playfeild near the vortex thing
Besides I'm sure Ron would never put a cap in backwards especially one that big vs eyesight lol and what nitwit removed the Mylar
Pretty sure I saw a fuse blow too as I saw a flash just after you fixed that circuit board
hahaha man I like your style!
Is it like a deja vu experience to get back a machine to fix which you have already serviced sometime in the past? How common is that?
I needed a battery pack that supposedly is no longer available. I contacted the company that made the pack for this other company and they said they did have a different pack that fit, so I ordered it.
The box arrived yesterday and the box was a 6 inch square cardboard box
I opened it up and there was heavy brown packing paper and it looked like they had not put anything in the box, but I unrolled the paper and inside was a tiny AA battery case that is not going to work, but that's not the crazy part
I live in 500 SQ feet, very small and the kitchen is only 10p SQ feet and has 1 counter
I opened the box and put the battery pack on the counter. 10 minutes later it is NOWHERE to be found.
I think I have dementia starting.
I must have moved it, but I can't find it and have no clue where I put it.
I was going to return it, but since I can't find it I guess I won't be able to return it.
I just can't remember what I did with it
I have always been a little absent minded, but it has gotten worse in the past two years
Seeing the remote battery pack made me think about sharing this.
The thing they sent looks like that only it has a small phone battery type connector.
It takes 6 batteries, so it is not that small, and it is black so I should see it, but I don't.
Maybe I threw it out by mistake but I clearly remember setting it on the counter.
I have noticed these memory gaps where the next day I see I did stuff and don't have any memory of doing it.
It is very disturbing
Getting old sucks
Being sick sucks even more
Those wire nuts make me worry. Seen the fuse blow.
What does the Blanking signal do or control? I'm not sure why the game won't start if there is no blanking signal
I believe it is for refreshing the displays. The error message flashes in the displays at the same frequency as the blanking LED and then keeps a similar interval.
The display system works by sending each character to its own set of segments sequentially so not all the segments have to be individually wired to a control unit. Would take a bunch of wires to do all five displays with 7 characters of 7 segments. This sequential scanning allows tensome wires per display unit instead on fiftysome. When the blanking signal is off, the memory for the display content can be updated, then when a blanking pulse is given, it initiates a quick scan through the elements to send the memory contents over. This is done so rapidly that unless you roll your eyes while looking, or try to record them with a different framerate, the displays appear quite steady. EDIT: Oh, there are more than 7 segments per character in these displays.
Some time ago, there was a video on this channel where a wrong capacitor value was put in the NE555 based circuit that timed the blanking intervals. This caused only the two least significant digits of each display to illuminate before a new scan was initiated, making it look like there might have been a more severe problem with the board that had just been worked on.
Now, why the game won't start if there is no blanking signal... I can only guess but I can offer an educated guess. At least on the board in question in the previous paragraph, there was a straight and inverted blanking signal going to different lines from the NE555. Probably this other one tells the board when the display memory can be updated, and if it is missing, the game will probably stay stuck waiting to update the display memory. It can be more complicated, but I'm afraid not much less.
Guessing the oversized speaker has pushed a solenoid supply wire onto a switch connection? Right let’s watch now…..
Edit. Ah. Completely wrong. Great video. Now, why did the fuse blow…. (Grabs popcorn for Part 2)
You got me with the F14 refurb series. I have a project F14 inbound. Batt damage, rubbish playfield the lot. Thanks!!!! 😉
+Ruaraidh McDonald-Walker, asks _"Now, why did the fuse blow…."_
That's called foreshadowing… Stay tuned for part two, same Bot-Time, same Bot-Channel!
These ceramic capacitors are usually rated 50V or 63V just because the ceramic material is that good insulator that makes the manufacture of lower voltage rating obsolete._
I was kinda thinking that too....
Won’t cause this issue but I think I saw a broken diode on a coil in what would be the upper right area of the playfield. Could be wrong but thought I saw it
We're gonna look there next!
Always hated throwing that switch after you "think" you found the reason your game was on fire. Just recently smoked a power supply in a Space Shuttle.
It happens, you eventually gotta go for it :)
That fuse blowing looked like a flash camera. LOL
Well, when the owner started marking things with blue tape, and he marked that part of the wiring harness... he was actually right, but not for the reason he thought. I played more video games than pinball, but Pinbot was a fun machine... I have no idea how many quarters I spent on it.
always wondered who Bride of Pinbot was referring to. interesting, Ron.
Well.. every component is a fuse.. eventually.
That's a great point
I was going to say, if those are LEDs they're the best LEDs ever! But if course they're not LEDs…
We're good as long as they keep makin' the '44s -- which, sadly, isn't likely to continue that much longer. It might be time to think about stocking up and buying a few dozen (hundred?) gross of bulbs now so that you never run out!
I think we'll always be able to talk Chyna into making us a run or two, they still use those little incandescents in all kinds of things so there's still a bunch of factories that can make them (at the moment at least!)
I guess this customer should contact your previous customer for the flipper fix :)
hahaha yeah that thing was a prototype!
A fuse blew at around 43:33
The gray and yellow wire on the flipper looks melted or smashed or something. Maybe somebody dropped the playfield and it got crushed on the front apron and has other stuff bent up or shorted?
Eh, I guess not. Nice work fixing it up!
Actually, when you test components 'in-circuit' having one not like the others is not necessarily pointing to a problem, because of what else follows in the circuit. If you find something that is odd, before you go swapping it out, you need to look at the schematic. If it is connected similarly to another circuit and that circuit measures differently, then you probably have an issue. However you can't always be sure without checking the schematic first.
+dablakh0l, writes _"Actually, when you test components 'in-circuit' having one not like the others is not necessarily pointing to a problem, because of what else follows in the circuit."_
Ah, but that's where the trickiness comes in… he's checking pins that all have the same circuits following them (i.e. they're all going to the switch matrix, just different rows or columns).
@@fred_derf I was just commenting on it, so that other people don't just swap components without reviewing the schematics first.
The sound is so weird..
And off kilter... Definitely something electronic circuit board thingy..
Guarantee it's a dohicky not attached to the whatchamacallit.
That can be confused with the thingamajig..
Simple fix.. just look at the schematics and just say yep that's it.. the thingamajigs are exactly like the whatchamacallits..
Total perfect sense..
Uhm the cap on the power suply is in wrong
Where is L. Rodriguez when you need him/her?
Yeah I'd like to have a word with them. Hey buddy, this passed inspection? Hmmmm?
Good enough for the girls were datin. 🤣
After watching all the videos, i still could not identify the problem before the answer.
Don't sweat it Scoosie it took me a while to figure it out too :)
Is the guy a truck driver?
Don't count on me pointing out a backwards capacitor..wouldn't know if one is or not😔..sorry just pointing.out my ignorance
To quote Bart Simpson, "I didn't do it. Nobody saw me do it. You can't prove a thing."
slap some batteries in there Will! nice to see engineers installed redundancy but if webb telescope gets slapped with x-class solar flare Will that hurt the chips?
One place I worked for always used "Close enough for Government Work", because we never went to the much higher level of "Close enough for the girls we date"...Why? Because it was government work...always surprised me at the amount of paperwork those government types want, but they allow such crappy work...then again look at what we have...so...LOL.
Before I watched I say a solenoid?
That was pretty much it!
Yodelayheehoo
I'm getting a bad vibe from those flipper connections no matter what
It’s broke
Hey, you can troubleshoot as good as Joe!
@@LyonsArcade like will smith I slap my games first.
@@LyonsArcade like will smith I slap my games first.