Thanks for the great tutorial. To save you a little time in highlighting the jacket, you can use that Green Grey instead. In fact it's perfect for highlighting a lot of the model - the bread bag, the shelter half, the gasmask canister, the canteen cup and even the edge of the helmet.
Just starting with this period myself and was searching for inspiration when I found your channel. You do yourself down by calling them tabletop standard, as they are really well done and do you much credit. If I can achieve any where near the standard you have reached with these I will be delighted. Well done sir!
Great Tutorial TRAVIS. YES, an airbrush would save a lot of time! Silly me, I have a few companies that were hand painted, mostly mid-late war. The earlier-looking Heer went to John in TX for his forces. Mass paint of Red Army here. My #3 Rifle Platoon is nearly done. They will join a SMG platoon in a tray and will go downstairs later today. The 1st and 2nd Rifle platoons are already downstairs. Making some Industrial Area buildings for Stalingrad, Aachen, etc. George Near Tacoma
Great video, just discovered your channel & subscribed. I’ve just bought some Blitzkrieg Germans after mostly doing late war stuff. This will be a very helpful guide, great painting too.
FYI, the collar and shoulderboards should be dark green on early uniforms. Also I use to collect WWII field gear and I've never seen a WWII era breadbag that could be called green-grey, they are generally a khaki to khaki drab color. In January 1940 the helmet color was changed from matte grey to matte Feld-grey.
You're correct about the NCOs, more specifically any Unteroffiziers would have this piping around the collar as well. The color of piping depended on branch of service. Unteroffiziers were Officer candidates. For any Feldwebel (Sargent)or Gefreiter (Corporal) they would have a chevron on the left sleeve, one or two depending on rank. Waffen SS ranks were different with different patches. Hope this helps...!
Gefreiters are not Corporals, common mistake, they are senior privates. Unteroffiziers are Corporals. all ranks fron schutzen to Stabsgefreiter are part of the same pay bracket. Unteroffizier to Oberstabsfeldwebel are the next bracket. The band around the collar & shoulderboards for NCOS is not colored for their branch it's actually silver and commonly called Russian-lace. The colored piping (Waffenfarb) surrounds the boards (outside the lace) except at the base on infantry uniforms
Also, you don't have to use the same flesh technique for every single model - people after all have different complexions and skin tones. More than anything, that's the one part where you can experiment on individual models.
I just wanted to say that I enjoy watching your videos while doing my painting, and thanks for posting. I’m late to the party on this one, but I thought I’d drop a word of advice for painting skin. I’m by no means an expert but I have had a lot of experience with doing skin over the years, especially when I was working with oils on large scale kits. For 28mm what I found that works well for table top quality is starting with a light-tone primer like you, and even using white for some miniatures. I’m sure you know this already, but the base color does effect the overall shade. For a skin-tone base I use rosy skin (it’s a Reaper paint) I farm paint this scale as well, so the following steps are done over a period of time. Next I’ll go over it with a moderately thinned down brown wash. It’s pretty dark at first, but it gives you that appearance of depth with the low points and recessed points. Next go back over it with the rosy skin again, thinning the paint most of the time to give a blending effect with some of the darker spots while maintaining the original color on the high points. After that is a thinned down red wash, focusing on low points ( between fingers and tendons of the hands, around the mouth and recesses of the nose leading down to the mouth, lower cheeks and ears) This may sound like a lot of work, but it’s really only a few extra steps and gives the skin a good layering of different shades. Next highlight the raised areas ( forehead and eyebrows, nose, the cheeks following the curvature down to the mouth, upper lip and chin and use your discretion on the raised portion of the upper and lower jawline.) with rosy skin mixed with a lightening shade to give the final highlight effect. The trick here is once again blending( with wet pallet) into the lower cheeks, recessed area around the nose and down to the upper lip, low point of the chin and under the eyes, if possible. I use a ginger snap color for this. For me that’s it. I generally don’t do eyes on this scale unless it’s a good sculpt on a special miniature. Overall they look pretty good on the table. It takes some practice but once you have it down it goes pretty quick. Hope that helps. Have a good one
You’re welcome. Hope it helps. Was trying not to oversimplify too much since you’re an experienced painter, but then I thought of other viewers who may not be. It gives the skin a pretty realistic look in my opinion, and it’s just a matter of tweeting the tone with other colors to suit your taste. Btw, just Chris is fine. Have a good one
I probably will not be doing any late war Germans any time soon. Sorry. But, it is the same color scheme as the early war guys and the poncho is just german camo beige with irregular shapes of flat brown and luftwaffe camo green. I dont bother with the rain stripes.
With smaller scales, you need to actually paint them lighter than you'd expect. Honestly for any tabletop minis, you want to really push the contrast and make the highlights brighter than normal.
Good little painting session. How long did it take you too complete ? got my Pioneer and Blitzkreig infantry to fight my Russians. Early War the most interesting for for me :)
Love these videos watching for my current project. I watch these when I am stuck in bed for days on end so thanks.
No problem. Glad you like them.
So good. I really like painted minis - so immersive.
Thanks for the great tutorial. To save you a little time in highlighting the jacket, you can use that Green Grey instead. In fact it's perfect for highlighting a lot of the model - the bread bag, the shelter half, the gasmask canister, the canteen cup and even the edge of the helmet.
Just starting with this period myself and was searching for inspiration when I found your channel. You do yourself down by calling them tabletop standard, as they are really well done and do you much credit. If I can achieve any where near the standard you have reached with these I will be delighted. Well done sir!
FRANK HAMMOND thanks Frank! You could do your minis to this level. A little practice and a few simple techniques is all it takes.
Really well done thanks for what you do!
Great painting and blitz army
Great Tutorial TRAVIS. YES, an airbrush would save a lot of time! Silly me, I have a few companies that were hand painted, mostly mid-late war. The earlier-looking Heer went to John in TX for his forces.
Mass paint of Red Army here. My #3 Rifle Platoon is nearly done. They will join a SMG platoon in a tray and will go downstairs later today. The 1st and 2nd Rifle platoons are already downstairs. Making some Industrial Area buildings for Stalingrad, Aachen, etc.
George
Near Tacoma
Great work. I especially liked the truck window.
Great video, just discovered your channel & subscribed. I’ve just bought some Blitzkrieg Germans after mostly doing late war stuff. This will be a very helpful guide, great painting too.
Wow, great video, going to use this when I do mine. Thanks for sharing
Nice tutorial and a great looking German army!!
FYI, the collar and shoulderboards should be dark green on early uniforms. Also I use to collect WWII field gear and I've never seen a WWII era breadbag that could be called green-grey, they are generally a khaki to khaki drab color. In January 1940 the helmet color was changed from matte grey to matte Feld-grey.
very nice painting keep doing more videos great to watch
You're correct about the NCOs, more specifically any Unteroffiziers would have this piping around the collar as well. The color of piping depended on branch of service. Unteroffiziers were Officer candidates. For any Feldwebel (Sargent)or Gefreiter (Corporal) they would have a chevron on the left sleeve, one or two depending on rank. Waffen SS ranks were different with different patches.
Hope this helps...!
Gefreiters are not Corporals, common mistake, they are senior privates. Unteroffiziers are Corporals. all ranks fron schutzen to Stabsgefreiter are part of the same pay bracket. Unteroffizier to Oberstabsfeldwebel are the next bracket. The band around the collar & shoulderboards for NCOS is not colored for their branch it's actually silver and commonly called Russian-lace. The colored piping (Waffenfarb) surrounds the boards (outside the lace) except at the base on infantry uniforms
Nice video nice looking miniatures
Very well painted army :)
Also, you don't have to use the same flesh technique for every single model - people after all have different complexions and skin tones. More than anything, that's the one part where you can experiment on individual models.
I just wanted to say that I enjoy watching your videos while doing my painting, and thanks for posting.
I’m late to the party on this one, but I thought I’d drop a word of advice for painting skin.
I’m by no means an expert but I have had a lot of experience with doing skin over the years, especially when I was working with oils on large scale kits.
For 28mm what I found that works well for table top quality is starting with a light-tone primer like you, and even using white for some miniatures. I’m sure you know this already, but the base color does effect the overall shade.
For a skin-tone base I use rosy skin (it’s a Reaper paint) I farm paint this scale as well, so the following steps are done over a period of time.
Next I’ll go over it with a moderately thinned down brown wash. It’s pretty dark at first, but it gives you that appearance of depth with the low points and recessed points.
Next go back over it with the rosy skin again, thinning the paint most of the time to give a blending effect with some of the darker spots while maintaining the original color on the high points.
After that is a thinned down red wash, focusing on low points ( between fingers and tendons of the hands, around the mouth and recesses of the nose leading down to the mouth, lower cheeks and ears)
This may sound like a lot of work, but it’s really only a few extra steps and gives the skin a good layering of different shades.
Next highlight the raised areas ( forehead and eyebrows, nose, the cheeks following the curvature down to the mouth, upper lip and chin and use your discretion on the raised portion of the upper and lower jawline.) with rosy skin mixed with a lightening shade to give the final highlight effect.
The trick here is once again blending( with wet pallet) into the lower cheeks, recessed area around the nose and down to the upper lip, low point of the chin and under the eyes, if possible. I use a ginger snap color for this.
For me that’s it. I generally don’t do eyes on this scale unless it’s a good sculpt on a special miniature.
Overall they look pretty good on the table. It takes some practice but once you have it down it goes pretty quick.
Hope that helps.
Have a good one
Chris M nice! Thanks for the detailed advice Chris!
You’re welcome. Hope it helps. Was trying not to oversimplify too much since you’re an experienced painter, but then I thought of other viewers who may not be.
It gives the skin a pretty realistic look in my opinion, and it’s just a matter of tweeting the tone with other colors to suit your taste.
Btw, just Chris is fine.
Have a good one
great video! hope! hope you'll also do the German late war grenadiers with ponchos.
I probably will not be doing any late war Germans any time soon. Sorry. But, it is the same color scheme as the early war guys and the poncho is just german camo beige with irregular shapes of flat brown and luftwaffe camo green. I dont bother with the rain stripes.
Great job, really nice tutorial
I need to lighten up my 15mm figs. They’re too muddy. Highlight I think is the key.
With smaller scales, you need to actually paint them lighter than you'd expect. Honestly for any tabletop minis, you want to really push the contrast and make the highlights brighter than normal.
Thanks for sharing. Stuff looks great, as usual. Did you use grout or fine sand for your base?
Thanks! It is just some sand I got from the river.
Do you have a list of the paints you used?
Leonardis EGWG not really. Sorry about that. Adding me to the description would be a good idea.
#tabletop CP did you have a list of colours you used? washes included?
No I didn't list them out sepertly just during the video sadly
Good little painting session. How long did it take you too complete ? got my Pioneer and Blitzkreig infantry to fight my Russians. Early War the most interesting for for me :)
simon breckon it took me a few months to do everything.
@@tabletopcp ok, so i have at least half a year of doing 70 :) :) : ) :)
simon breckon well I have done about twice as .much as what is shown in this video. So yeah it will take a while to do 70
Good one
Great looking Army! How did you make the little flags on the vehicles?
Thanks. They are dry transfers from Archer.
Hey man. I just want to say, Great video. What brush do you use? I want to start making Dioramas for a mini museum.
Thanks! In this video I was using Army Painter brushes. This is is called Character.
Many thanks. I found the brush on their website. Keep up the good work!
sadly no volume.....