Thanks for posting. Interesting. Depends what you're doing, I guess. I'm in the UK doing coppice for me and general felling and presentation for uplift as a freelance. Chainsaw trousers (rather than chaps) plus boots and gloves with spares 'cos it rains a lot here and when gloves get wet you grip the saw harder, increasing your susceptibility to carpal tunnel syndrome and HAVS. Dry gloves also make life nicer and reduce fatigue. Part of the job is stacking for uplift, so a pair of timber tongs. Hard hat with ears and mesh visor. Never seen an ally brain bucket over here. Husqvarna logging tape, but 2 saw lengths is 5' for cordwood. Small saw, short bar, spare chain. Usually walk into sites so no spare bar or saw. They stay in the van with the second saw and full tool kit if I'm freelancing. Holding wedge in a pocket, high lifts (2) and 5lb sledge. We do get big trees, but they tend to be big-crowned and squatty, a small part of the job and a 14" bar will efficiently fell up to 30" if the chain is sharp. Will do most sectioning. Fuel and oil - small saw sips both. Lunch. Water or juice. Combi spanner, correct file. Rope for assisted fells. Derelict coppice is tangly, multi-trunked and small (3-10" and 30' tall or more). Taking a minute to put a rope up speeds work and reduces effort. Mine is 20m of 1/2" terylene with a splice in the middle, not proofed or tested. Half came off a beach, half was sitting at 12m on an artificial reef with a brand new boat anchor on one end and a very pretty whipping in the other. (!). Goes high in the tree, no throwing line needed. Waterproof coat. Spare dry clothes and towel and boots in the van. It rains a lot in winter... Pickups over here are rare and cost a lot more than an old van, especially with 4WD. So, different, not better, stripped to a minimum. And I often work on my tod. Been doing that for over 30 years.
I like type of videos where people show and explain their logging/chaisaw setup, you have great dictioning and camera, idk why these videos gain so low views! Btw good vid, i enjoyed it!
One great thing I got for when I’m working by myself is a plb they are small and easy to use these days. Great vid loved it keep it up Cheers from New Zealand
That's actually a great idea. With the amount backcountry hiking and hunting I do, it'd probably be wise to pick one up for that as well . Thanks for watching. Kinda crazy that I have a global audience haha
Uncontrolled bleeding is the number one cause of preventable death from trauma. It's not something to be afraid of, but something to be aware of so you can act accordingly. It's a better safe than sorry kinda thing, especially when working with dangerous tools in remote environments . Thanks for watching
@@Dadnatron good question! Personal preference for the most part, but these are all the other potential reasons I could think of: 1) If you're doing any rigging you'll be working with cables which will always have jaggers. Leather gloves with the same thickness of cotton gloves wouldn't be easy to manipulate or form fitting. 2) Thinner, truly form fitting leather gloves (like golfing or tig gloves) wouldn't provide as much protection from jaggers and would probably wear out about as fast as cotton gloves while being more expensive. 3) These gloves are viewed as expendable because they will inevitably get thrashed, so you can get a bunch and keep them on hand for cheap. 4) If you work in the rain it's better for your gloves to soak with water than constantly fill with water (IMO). 5) If you need to grab something hot for a repair (bar nuts, chain, spark plug, etc) thin leather will transfer that heat almost immediately without insulation. 6) If you're working on a hot day you'd want breathable gloves. 7) It's traditional and a lot of loggers are proud of stuff like that, especially out west. . Thanks for watching
Really liked the vid! Not hating at all but something I seen is that the orange Tourniquet are for training and practice, they don’t have as strong of Velcro or plastic the black or blue ones are rated for life saving the orange ones aren’t recommended
The blue ones are for training and the black and orange are for lifesaving. It actually has "FOR TRAINING ONLY" printed on the back of the blues. That said if you take a class, they'll want you to put a blue tourniquet on to the point that it stops your pulse, just the same as the black or orange. So I'm pretty sure all three are the same tourniquet, but you want to separate the one you use for training so you don't end up accidentally waring out one you expect to save your life. Similar to how a bowhunter will have practice arrows that are an exact 1 to 1 of their hunting arrows, but they'll mark one of the sets so they don't mix them up and shoot a dull broadhead at a deer . Thanks for watching
It doesn't really change too much. If you have a log with a lot of compression you can use the wedges so the kerf doesn't close. But if you do get your saw stuck, it helps to have a spare saw, or chain and bar to cut yourself out . Thanks for watching
Husqvarna oil is crap? I'm running power saws several times a week for close to 30 years, from -20C to +30C. I've only ever used Husqvarna XP, then XP+ and now XP Synthetic oil. 40:1 in everything, and I've never blown up a saw or had anything close to a premature failure. You seem to know what you're doing too, but you're completely off the mark on the Husky oil. Stihl Ultra on the other hand, now there's liquid crap in a bottle if you know what you're looking at.
Thanks for posting. Interesting. Depends what you're doing, I guess. I'm in the UK doing coppice for me and general felling and presentation for uplift as a freelance. Chainsaw trousers (rather than chaps) plus boots and gloves with spares 'cos it rains a lot here and when gloves get wet you grip the saw harder, increasing your susceptibility to carpal tunnel syndrome and HAVS. Dry gloves also make life nicer and reduce fatigue. Part of the job is stacking for uplift, so a pair of timber tongs. Hard hat with ears and mesh visor. Never seen an ally brain bucket over here. Husqvarna logging tape, but 2 saw lengths is 5' for cordwood.
Small saw, short bar, spare chain. Usually walk into sites so no spare bar or saw. They stay in the van with the second saw and full tool kit if I'm freelancing. Holding wedge in a pocket, high lifts (2) and 5lb sledge. We do get big trees, but they tend to be big-crowned and squatty, a small part of the job and a 14" bar will efficiently fell up to 30" if the chain is sharp. Will do most sectioning. Fuel and oil - small saw sips both. Lunch. Water or juice. Combi spanner, correct file. Rope for assisted fells. Derelict coppice is tangly, multi-trunked and small (3-10" and 30' tall or more). Taking a minute to put a rope up speeds work and reduces effort. Mine is 20m of 1/2" terylene with a splice in the middle, not proofed or tested. Half came off a beach, half was sitting at 12m on an artificial reef with a brand new boat anchor on one end and a very pretty whipping in the other. (!). Goes high in the tree, no throwing line needed.
Waterproof coat. Spare dry clothes and towel and boots in the van. It rains a lot in winter... Pickups over here are rare and cost a lot more than an old van, especially with 4WD.
So, different, not better, stripped to a minimum. And I often work on my tod. Been doing that for over 30 years.
my old man's saw has smooth dogs, love them
@@ek.chadith5092 to each their own. Thanks for watching
@ he has a husky 2100 xp ported , no chain brake , smooth dogs, thing dices , he's had for it 40 years
Good video, I just fall for firewood but this is my same setup. I carry a tourniquet as well as an ifak. Always lookin up!
I like type of videos where people show and explain their logging/chaisaw setup, you have great dictioning and camera, idk why these videos gain so low views! Btw good vid, i enjoyed it!
I appreciate that. Thanks for watching
One great thing I got for when I’m working by myself is a plb they are small and easy to use these days. Great vid loved it keep it up
Cheers from New Zealand
That's actually a great idea. With the amount backcountry hiking and hunting I do, it'd probably be wise to pick one up for that as well
.
Thanks for watching. Kinda crazy that I have a global audience haha
You did a great job going through each thing.
All important.
But quite chilling to me is the tourniquet . . .
Uncontrolled bleeding is the number one cause of preventable death from trauma. It's not something to be afraid of, but something to be aware of so you can act accordingly. It's a better safe than sorry kinda thing, especially when working with dangerous tools in remote environments
.
Thanks for watching
Why cotton gloves rather than form fitting leather or something more 'protective'?
@@Dadnatron good question! Personal preference for the most part, but these are all the other potential reasons I could think of: 1) If you're doing any rigging you'll be working with cables which will always have jaggers. Leather gloves with the same thickness of cotton gloves wouldn't be easy to manipulate or form fitting. 2) Thinner, truly form fitting leather gloves (like golfing or tig gloves) wouldn't provide as much protection from jaggers and would probably wear out about as fast as cotton gloves while being more expensive. 3) These gloves are viewed as expendable because they will inevitably get thrashed, so you can get a bunch and keep them on hand for cheap. 4) If you work in the rain it's better for your gloves to soak with water than constantly fill with water (IMO). 5) If you need to grab something hot for a repair (bar nuts, chain, spark plug, etc) thin leather will transfer that heat almost immediately without insulation. 6) If you're working on a hot day you'd want breathable gloves. 7) It's traditional and a lot of loggers are proud of stuff like that, especially out west.
.
Thanks for watching
Really liked the vid! Not hating at all but something I seen is that the orange Tourniquet are for training and practice, they don’t have as strong of Velcro or plastic the black or blue ones are rated for life saving the orange ones aren’t recommended
The blue ones are for training and the black and orange are for lifesaving. It actually has "FOR TRAINING ONLY" printed on the back of the blues. That said if you take a class, they'll want you to put a blue tourniquet on to the point that it stops your pulse, just the same as the black or orange. So I'm pretty sure all three are the same tourniquet, but you want to separate the one you use for training so you don't end up accidentally waring out one you expect to save your life. Similar to how a bowhunter will have practice arrows that are an exact 1 to 1 of their hunting arrows, but they'll mark one of the sets so they don't mix them up and shoot a dull broadhead at a deer
.
Thanks for watching
Good video. I am a new subscriber from north Idaho.
How does this setup change if you are doing ground work (limbing and bucking downed trees) and not felling trees.
It doesn't really change too much. If you have a log with a lot of compression you can use the wedges so the kerf doesn't close. But if you do get your saw stuck, it helps to have a spare saw, or chain and bar to cut yourself out
.
Thanks for watching
Dogs???
@@AndrewMorano-o1w the pointy teeth things on the powerhead, they're called "dogs."
.
Thanks for watching
Husqvarna oil is crap? I'm running power saws several times a week for close to 30 years, from -20C to +30C. I've only ever used Husqvarna XP, then XP+ and now XP Synthetic oil. 40:1 in everything, and I've never blown up a saw or had anything close to a premature failure. You seem to know what you're doing too, but you're completely off the mark on the Husky oil. Stihl Ultra on the other hand, now there's liquid crap in a bottle if you know what you're looking at.
Thanks for watching