Paintless Dent Repair | Honda Crosstour Right fender | How To
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ม.ค. 2025
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Nice work Dave, tell the boss to heat that shop some!
thomkirby it can get toasty really quick, but moving vehicles around in the winter...heat escapes every so often
Great video peeps! Really valuable hearing the perspective of how two experienced techs would take on this repair. 5 star content, slick editing, congrats & thanks for sharing!
Dan McGrath thanks for the kudos! We appreciate all feedback, keep us on our toes 😉
Great repair guys, I have one exactly like that to do tomorrow, I'm hoping it is just regular mild steel!
1st Track Dents it was high strength steel
@@dentlesstouchchicago Luckily my one was mild steel as it was a Ford Focus, always great watching your work Dave:-)
🙏🏽
@@1st_track_dents I really appreciate that. Your videos are killer!
So amazing, if I didn't see I wouldn't believe it could be done with that level of perfection!
Thank you!
Awesome Repair Dave!!!
Great work David, appreciated! Thanks for talking us thorough process - educational and practical.
Dave is a master dent repair wizz
Wow looks amazing great job
Great job
Luis Diaz thanks!
Love the repair Brother
Zan Vidic thanks!
Thanks 🙏🏽
Just starting the video, but it’s cool to see Dave debating where to make the first pull. I do the same thing. I generally go with the body line unless the crown is extreme, which I wouldn’t consider this one to be. I find it’s easier to get the body line cleaner that way.
Mark Noble the bodyline was the best option in this case, the area around the headlight was weaker than I imagined. After a couple of test pulls by the headlight you can see I head to the bodyline. Great feedback! Keep it coming
Where did you get that heat gun?
What is the color of the red Caddy (I think) behind you?
Mark Camaro ...red? Lol
how hot do you like the panels?
140-150
Good job continue
What year did Honda stop using HSS and what do they use now?
Probably Ultra high-strength steel!
Now they use aluminum or wet toilet paper.
@@marknoble5495 Which is easier for PDR, or should I ask if aluminium is more challenging?
Jason Keller great question. Aluminum can be difficult to work with. The properties within create difficulty when trying to recreate bodylines or simply make the metal flat. It requires 10x more force (don’t quote me but there’s a real stat out there in google land) to move aluminum back to its original form.
@@dentlesstouchchicago I just read an article about car bodies, steel v. Al. From your stat 10x, does glue pulling work for Al? It sounds like you need a H1 Hummer and a winch to get the dents out?
Great job. How much did it cost to fix that dent?
David is a beast,
How much did this cost? And was it repainted?
No repainting, $300ish
Used some cheap black glue and I cannot get it off a steel door Camry without scraping. Used 91% and it wont budge. Found out the hard way to not use the little sharp plastic scraper. It got the glue off but went thru the original clear coat. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks
Maybe you can wet sand and buff. But the rule of thumb is “if your finger nail catches, its to deep to buff out”
Brilliant 👍
You gentlemen deserve to be referred to as craftsmen.
Qual preço desse serviço amigo ?
What happened to the hood?
😎
Brother, slanting please a couple of secrets. No money for learning PDR technology. Please. Thank you 🙏🏻
How do you know when a panel is high strength steel?
Great question, app called Mobile Tech RX that we use. They are able to get the data from the manufacture
The submariner stole the show 👍🏻
Omg
Fake
Ok.. tell my shoulder that!! 😂
Maybe your shoulder is fooling you too. Until 11 minutes 28 it was a landscape. By 11 minutes 28 the landscape was gone and he continued to press fake. . First track dent shows you the complete process.