Eric, Aluminum spool gun welding is for aluminum at least 1/16" thick and when done properly is an extremely fast moving process. You have to really, really move fast doing this process. Anything thinner than that is strictly TIG. A much easier and better fix would have been using Epoxy which would in this case actually have been stronger. Wrap masking tape around the overly small part until it tightly fits the larger piece thereby centering it and then epoxy the two together. This would result in an extremely strong repair. Boeing holds the Dreamliner together with glue surely you could hold together a tripod with it.
+SATAMAN Schmidt It's their panel bonding adhesive. It's supposed to be stronger than a weld, and they claim the metal will tear before the adhesive lets go. I'm thinking of trying some on plastic as my support for the door handle on my door panel broke and I won't just rig something up, and a new door panel is about 400. Negative to that ghost rider.
Both the urethane and the epoxy versions of panel bonding adhesive are stronger than welding. I use Rubber-Seals adhesives but I'm sure Norton's are identical.
Regarding your practice of NOT pushing break fluid up into the master cylinder - I have ruined several master cylinders until I started doing the bleeder screw method. Glad to see you do it this way.
Love your "Day in the Shop" videos. Keep them up!! Great job Eric and Brian!!! I definitely see a show in your future of this format! Take care guys!!!
Watch your fingers old mate, Rags and gloves are a massive no no on rotating machinery, I would hate to see you get injured or loose a digit. Keep up the good work.
I was a heavy equipment mechanic for a few years. A marine mechanic for about 3 years. Gave it up, that is a damn hard job, takes its toll on guys body
Tips for the aluminum welding. Make sure you use a wire wheel that is for aluminum only. Preferably a stainless steel wire wheel. By the looks of it though your gas was incorrect more than having impurities in your weld. Use pure Argon or an Argon/Helium Blend. Do not use gas containing carbon dioxide as this will oxidize the weld. That last bit comes directly from Lincoln Electric.
You remind me so much of my good friend's Granpa. Honest man trying to make a good living and I've learned a lot from him as I have from you. Relaxing watching you work, saves my knuckles lol. Thank you sir.
thanks again for being real (like not hiding the fact that you drilled a hole in the accord). it's one of the main reasons why i do all of my own auto repairs. the one and only time i had a timing belt change at a toyota dealer was because i couldn't get the crank bolt off back in 2001. the harmonic balancer belt grooves ended up with some damage and now prematurely wears out my serpentine belt. also, the crank bolt was torqued beyond 250 ft/lbs. since then, i upgraded to air tools and have not taken my cars to the shop. still though, love the video. P.S. i used to always end up with respiratory issues after wrenching. my dad was a mechanic for city buses and now has a chronic cough that won't go away. i now always wear a dust mask. probably won't work for you while filming but just looking out for your lung health.
+garretts91 It would be cool to see a video of Brian working on something while you film. Also very cool seeing you resurface rotors. I learned how to use a brake lathe auto school. Good luck finding a shop that's willing anymore!
Lmao, that's how you empty the glove box. That had me cracking up! I've had the same happen with the coin/ash tray when I replaced the heater core in a Ram 1500.
I had a Barbara's van. HAD. I drive for a living. Many maintained miles. 3 Motors (1) repair failure (2) timing), 3 trans, power doors, and tailgate dead, Half the headlights worked (computer) which means sometimes they worked. The list was endless. The next trans was last straw. I gave it youth in Asia. It met the crusher. I could not punish another poor soul with it. Found a Crown Vic, now happy.
Oh ya RUST. The 2001 rusted overnight. a pin hole scratch. turns to softball size hole in rear doors below handle. etc. In no time. Sheet metal is so thin body shops will not touch it.
I love to see you Torquing the wheels. I HATE it when a shop is lazy and just cranks them down. I busted a lug off on my used Jeep the first time I tried removing the tire. Good thing is I learned how to replace a lug.
Hey! Quick tip! The proper way to use a micrometer includes the ratchet on the end of the handle. They're typically calibrated with about three clicks on the ratchet, so I do the same when using it. I also gently wiggle it while I click the ratchet, to help get the anvil & spindle perpendicular to my measuring surface (the wiggling helps overcome the friction that prevents this). That helps me get more repeatable readings, and in accuracy, repeatability is a big deal.
Interesting video, I learned lots of new things as usual. I know turning the rotors fixes the pulsation problem, but I wonder if it will eventually return (maybe its undersized to begin with). When turning rotors, be careful when using rags to wipe that spinning rotor though. If something snags......
Minimum front vented rotor thickness is 22mm, rear solid rotor minimum is 8mm (some have rear drums instead). Brake pad minimum thickness is 2.0mm front, 1.0mm rear. The same specs apply to all 1993-2002 Mazda 626's.
Hey Eric, you're quite right to retract caliper pistons via the bleed nipple. I'm a retired fire truck mechanic, had a colleague change the front pads on a Vauxhall van (G.M.) pushing the pistons back to the master cylinder like he'd always done. All seemed well at the end of the job BUT, unknown to him G.M. had changed the design of the M/C, pushing fluid back had turned the seals inside out, shortly afterwards the brakes failed out on the road. The firefighter driving the van at the time was NOT a happy man, as can be imagined. Thereafter everyone in the shop always used the bleed nipple method.
Aww man.... I know I'm like 4 years late to the party but dude! Gloves and rags on that lathe! I'm a machinist and I am glad theres plenty of people in here giving you grief.. we need you to keep all your fingers and limbs so you can keep on teaching us!
+lordyboyo Not possible because there isn't wired internet at the shop. If you watch the first video (Linked in the description) you'll see that I mentioned making these videos as an answer to your request.
bg147 think about a cat’s mannerisms, they would be jumping and hiding every time he uses power tools lol. Or crawl into someone’s engine and then he goes to move the vehicle ..
Dude Eric...the way you do your brake jobs with that bleeder set-up is awesome, after seeing that I'll never be using the old C-Clamp/C-Clamps to reset the brake piston/Pistons and push the brake fluid up back into the brake master cylinder. I also noticed the method you use it seems when you bleed out the old brake fluid it looked to be burnt or rusty in color, another reason why I am switching it up.
You make an excellent point of the car being built for the street as a cruiser. I built a car that I initially built to do the same but I went further than initially planned, 12.5 to 1 pistons, heads shaved so my 428cj had about 13.2 to one and the cam I was running really didn't make it a good "street" car, although it was alot of fun, 8mpg, excessive heat, etc. That said my full bodied 67 Fairlane GTA turned 10.34 at 138mph.
~13 years ago i did use brake drum lathe for trucks, brakes drums and shoes at school(we did lot of those as new brakes on trucks here cost a lot more then man can think they cost). I have yet not seen Brake disk lathe so i asume they havent make one as one series of pad = one brake disk in limit on normal use. I'am clad to see one so i may ask one from my tool guy to help me on shaking break pedals. Thanks for the tip! Cheers! Timppa
omg its back that darned van i think it got so used to the shop it gets lonely without that place i love these day in the shop vids its the best series next to the reponut videos
Brake lathe tips: first fast cut I try to cut minimum even if it doesn’t cut all of rotor, second cut SLOW and finish with non directional finish And just spring break clean on a rag does not remove the machining dust washing the rotor with soap and water and then blowing Drywood air is best. Also I always machine new rotors throw them on the lead and do a light slow cut and you’ll see what I’m talking about
I've been a parts guy for 13 years. On behalf of all commercial parts guys I apologize when we take time. But we deserve it also. Hope the fill in took good care of you anyhow.
I also bleed brakes the way you show. many people criticize that method but after I had to replace a master cylinder 2 weeks after a brake job I never push the fluid back into the master cylinder. great videos! My only wish was you did some Jeep wrangler videos. lol
can't wait for the video of the explorer wheel bearing,I have done bearing change on 02 ford explorer, since then , it works great, it is not a fun job.looking forward to see how I did it
27:40 - About finding good information: I've owned several Saabs, it's a sick addiction, really, but I have to say that the knowledge base is incredible for these vehicles. 9 out of 10 times I can do a search for my model and the issue, BAM instantly someone has had identical issues and someone else has given the correct solution. Car won't start after several short trips/car at operating temp? Crankshaft position sensor. Car won't start/crank until you row through the gears (on automatics)? Neutral safety switch. Car misfiring wildly? direct ignition cartridge. Sure, these issues might be obvious to a mechanic, but those are just a few I've experienced and fixed, and before I had experienced these issues I didn't know that that's what would cause the problem. Sometimes the issue is strange and obfuscated, but the help online is always great.
Hey, i know this is a long one but I have a Nissan Sylphy 2006, and it does have a problem with power. First off, i do experience a delayed driving force when i step on the gas especially when the engine is hot and not in motion. This happens more so when a high torque is needed for the vehicle to move either foward or backwards. For instance when i come to a complete stop and i have to go over a bump or ramp of some sort, stepping on the gas wont make it go over immediately as i will have to deeply accelerate for a few seconds..say 7 sec..for it to even start moving. Its movement will be extremely slow until it gains momentum and after which everything works as its supposed to. Whilst all these happens, the rev conter on the dash stays stationery and does not act as though there’s no acceleration at all up until the vehicle moves. My Mech had to change the throttle sensor, had its transmission control unit replaced and also checked the exhaust system for any leakages but no show. I have constantly stayed dirty on it, moving shop to shop but it seems to prove a headache for everybody. Any help/suggestions will be highly appreciated.
Im 1:51 in.... guessing the receiver-dyer or the high pressure line..... i had a 1996 ex f22b1 ftw. But that ended up being what was wrong with mine XD
Eric, there is a minimum thickness for machining rotors. Is there a min thickness between the two rotors per axle? For instance one rotor on the ft axle is 1mm difference between the two rotors after cutting.
Just a suggestion. If you had a brake pulsation from old rotors, why would you turn them? When you take even more metal away, you are just asking for that pulsation to come back in the next brake job lifespan.
To turn the rotors don't you have to look at the rotor and see the discard and then measure how much you have on the rotor and then add .35mm or .015 inches to discard and subtract from the actual rotor thickness?
Hey Eric, have you ever considered showing the process of a DIY front toe alignment? I hate to bring my car in for an alignment every time I perform any type of suspension work, or just want new tires.
Simple pocket screwdriver with a magnet is how I test for ferrous metal or not and tig is definitely the way to weld something that thin that spool gun is like driving tacks with a sledge hammer
Eric, a way to get your fingers on the screen and have them work is to slit the base of the glove thumb, that way, you can slip your thumb out or later back in without cutting the glove finger off or taking the gloves off. For clarification Google "tactical glove shooting removable finger" in image mode. You'll get the idea as soon as you see the pictures. I have a pair of surplus sniper gloves that i use for riding and it's the best thing since sliced bread.
+aserta I'm lucky with the rotors on the cars i do, i have a lathe and i made myself a rotor "chuck" from an old axle so i'm set there, but you're right, sometimes you're better off buying new ones rather than having sub-par machining from either a badly maintained machine or the operator that's picking his boogers, totally unaware of how you're supposed to run it.
Been watching your videos for years. They just keep getting better. I like the addition of the day in the life series.
Eric, you have created a fascinating new video series for your channel and there is nothing else like it, please keep it up.
Eric, Aluminum spool gun welding is for aluminum at least 1/16" thick and when done properly is an extremely fast moving process. You have to really, really move fast doing this process. Anything thinner than that is strictly TIG. A much easier and better fix would have been using Epoxy which would in this case actually have been stronger. Wrap masking tape around the overly small part until it tightly fits the larger piece thereby centering it and then epoxy the two together. This would result in an extremely strong repair. Boeing holds the Dreamliner together with glue surely you could hold together a tripod with it.
+SATAMAN Schmidt Hey Denny, have you ever used the Norton SpeedGrip PBA? If so is it any good?
Exactly what is Norton SpeedGrip PBA? Is this some kind of sandpaper? Normally Norton uses the name speedgrip to indicate that it's a Velcro disc.
+SATAMAN Schmidt It's their panel bonding adhesive. It's supposed to be stronger than a weld, and they claim the metal will tear before the adhesive lets go. I'm thinking of trying some on plastic as my support for the door handle on my door panel broke and I won't just rig something up, and a new door panel is about 400. Negative to that ghost rider.
Both the urethane and the epoxy versions of panel bonding adhesive are stronger than welding. I use Rubber-Seals adhesives but I'm sure Norton's are identical.
+SATAMAN Schmidt Thanks. I'll check into Rubber-Seals.
The real question is - were did you go for lunch?
Regarding your practice of NOT pushing break fluid up into the master cylinder - I have ruined several master cylinders until I started doing the bleeder screw method. Glad to see you do it this way.
38:37 New tire changer, wheel balancer, brake lathe and love your new car wash stall too Eric!
Absolutely love the new change Eric! Good job!!!! So much fun watching these episodes!!!!
Love your "Day in the Shop" videos. Keep them up!! Great job Eric and Brian!!! I definitely see a show in your future of this format! Take care guys!!!
Watch your fingers old mate, Rags and gloves are a massive no no on rotating machinery, I would hate to see you get injured or loose a digit. Keep up the good work.
@Merl Klarhoelter Hes talking about the brake rotor lathe, ya goof.
Eric, why Do you do it that way. Just push it back into the master cylinder I've been doing it that way for 20 years.
IVoidwarrantys I've been doing it for 2 years just take the top off and good as gold I could see it having problems though
Straight back into the master cylinder via the ABS pump.
Smashing to see you not struggling like you used to :-D
That rotor lathe did a loverly job, didnt take you long to master it :-)
brian wearing a four x gold shirt, nice work mate, QUEENSLANDER!!!!
Man, I love this...following you through your day is very interesting. Love them new shiny tools too !
I was a heavy equipment mechanic for a few years. A marine mechanic for about 3 years. Gave it up, that is a damn hard job, takes its toll on guys body
These are my favorite vids Eric, hope you keep producing these!
Tips for the aluminum welding. Make sure you use a wire wheel that is for aluminum only. Preferably a stainless steel wire wheel. By the looks of it though your gas was incorrect more than having impurities in your weld. Use pure Argon or an Argon/Helium Blend. Do not use gas containing carbon dioxide as this will oxidize the weld. That last bit comes directly from Lincoln Electric.
Loving this format. Please never stop making Day in the life videos.
You remind me so much of my good friend's Granpa. Honest man trying to make a good living and I've learned a lot from him as I have from you. Relaxing watching you work, saves my knuckles lol. Thank you sir.
lol when I heard the parts guy say half hour I was like "yeah right"
thanks again for being real (like not hiding the fact that you drilled a hole in the accord). it's one of the main reasons why i do all of my own auto repairs. the one and only time i had a timing belt change at a toyota dealer was because i couldn't get the crank bolt off back in 2001.
the harmonic balancer belt grooves ended up with some damage and now prematurely wears out my serpentine belt. also, the crank bolt was torqued beyond 250 ft/lbs.
since then, i upgraded to air tools and have not taken my cars to the shop.
still though, love the video.
P.S. i used to always end up with respiratory issues after wrenching. my dad was a mechanic for city buses and now has a chronic cough that won't go away. i now always wear a dust mask. probably won't work for you while filming but just looking out for your lung health.
Brian is an AWESOME camera man. Seriously, better filming than 99% of youtubers in my opinion! Keep him around and pay him well! lol
+garretts91 It would be cool to see a video of Brian working on something while you film. Also very cool seeing you resurface rotors. I learned how to use a brake lathe auto school. Good luck finding a shop that's willing anymore!
Lmao, that's how you empty the glove box. That had me cracking up! I've had the same happen with the coin/ash tray when I replaced the heater core in a Ram 1500.
Lots of people never realize all the stuff an independent mechanic goes through. Like trying to do 50 different things all at once.
+jdmeaux Add video production to that mix to make it really interesting. :)
Yeah my dad goes through hell, he usually figures everything out by himself but if he gets stuck he looks it up on TH-cam or googles it.
I'm retired but do all of my family's repairs myself. ETCG has been a big help for me.
I had a Barbara's van. HAD. I drive for a living. Many maintained miles. 3 Motors (1) repair failure (2) timing), 3 trans, power doors, and tailgate dead, Half the headlights worked (computer) which means sometimes they worked. The list was endless. The next trans was last straw. I gave it youth in Asia. It met the crusher. I could not punish another poor soul with it. Found a Crown Vic, now happy.
Oh ya RUST. The 2001 rusted overnight. a pin hole scratch. turns to softball size hole in rear doors below handle. etc. In no time. Sheet metal is so thin body shops will not touch it.
Bill Prus ....congrats on the crown vic.... best Ford vehicle ever made
"In order tooooo dump all of the stuff out of the glove box just let it fall just like that" Lmfao love your vids man
Great to see another one of these! Please keep them coming.
I love to see you Torquing the wheels. I HATE it when a shop is lazy and just cranks them down. I busted a lug off on my used Jeep the first time I tried removing the tire. Good thing is I learned how to replace a lug.
Hey! Quick tip! The proper way to use a micrometer includes the ratchet on the end of the handle. They're typically calibrated with about three clicks on the ratchet, so I do the same when using it. I also gently wiggle it while I click the ratchet, to help get the anvil & spindle perpendicular to my measuring surface (the wiggling helps overcome the friction that prevents this). That helps me get more repeatable readings, and in accuracy, repeatability is a big deal.
But your readings seem repeatable enough, so if you want to keep doing it your way, then by all means continue :-)
+ilike56K he measured 22.84 before on one and both came out 23+ after machining
Interesting video, I learned lots of new things as usual. I know turning the rotors fixes the pulsation problem, but I wonder if it will eventually return (maybe its undersized to begin with). When turning rotors, be careful when using rags to wipe that spinning rotor though. If something snags......
Minimum front vented rotor thickness is 22mm, rear solid rotor minimum is 8mm (some have rear drums instead). Brake pad minimum thickness is 2.0mm front, 1.0mm rear. The same specs apply to all 1993-2002 Mazda 626's.
38:40 you're a really nice mechanic, even giving the cars a wash ;)
i absolutely LOVE these day in the life of vids :)
Hey Eric thanks for the video. Quick tip for you. To convert a standard number over to the metric number, multiply the standard number by 25.4.
+Gary Habat Or I can make my phone do it. :)
+EricTheCarGuy Math keeps the mind young Eric.... :)
+gokartbuyer Yes it does.
Hey Eric, you're quite right to retract caliper pistons via the bleed nipple. I'm a retired fire truck mechanic, had a colleague change the front pads on a Vauxhall van (G.M.) pushing the pistons back to the master cylinder like he'd always done. All seemed well at the end of the job BUT, unknown to him G.M. had changed the design of the M/C, pushing fluid back had turned the seals inside out, shortly afterwards the brakes failed out on the road. The firefighter driving the van at the time was NOT a happy man, as can be imagined. Thereafter everyone in the shop always used the bleed nipple method.
Was hoping you were going to do another one of these videos. Awesome!!!!!! You're the best Eric!!!!!
Love this video, it's like being with him all day. Hey Eric, don't forget that engine management video I suggested on your website!
Also, you should get a whole beard!
Aww man.... I know I'm like 4 years late to the party but dude! Gloves and rags on that lathe! I'm a machinist and I am glad theres plenty of people in here giving you grief.. we need you to keep all your fingers and limbs so you can keep on teaching us!
you really needa do more of these videos! my fav vids on your channel!
eric, where do you get your torque wrenches from? any thoughts on the harbor freight ones? would be cool if you did a torque wrench calibration video!
Good to hear fixing it forward will be running in 2020.
you should set up a Webcam in you shop that streams most of the day, that would be cool
+lordyboyo Then we'd see Eric have a minor melt down sometimes and him starting to dance angry around a wheel hub :)
+aserta that would be cool lol
+lordyboyo Not possible because there isn't wired internet at the shop. If you watch the first video (Linked in the description) you'll see that I mentioned making these videos as an answer to your request.
+EricTheCarGuy that's a shame mate.
+lordyboyo Not really. It wouldn't be as exciting as you think.
It would be nice if you had a garage cat.
Dog, garage dog. Fixed :)
bg147 think about a cat’s mannerisms, they would be jumping and hiding every time he uses power tools lol. Or crawl into someone’s engine and then he goes to move the vehicle ..
I think the camara man is the pet lol
Hey Eric
I as a shop owner appreciate your videos. I really liked the one about slow pay customers. Keep on keepin on.
Take care
Frank
Love these videos, thanks for taking the time! :D
"Are these 10mm?" "No." *grabs channel locks*
Dude Eric...the way you do your brake jobs with that bleeder set-up is awesome, after seeing that I'll never be using the old C-Clamp/C-Clamps to reset the brake piston/Pistons and push the brake fluid up back into the brake master cylinder. I also noticed the method you use it seems when you bleed out the old brake fluid it looked to be burnt or rusty in color, another reason why I am switching it up.
Ericthecarguy your videos in your auto shop are awesome .
You make an excellent point of the car being built for the street as a cruiser. I built a car that I initially built to do the same but I went further than initially planned, 12.5 to 1 pistons, heads shaved so my 428cj had about 13.2 to one and the cam I was running really didn't make it a good "street" car, although it was alot of fun, 8mpg, excessive heat, etc. That said my full bodied 67 Fairlane GTA turned 10.34 at 138mph.
Brian's wearing a XXXX Queensland shirt , from Australia , ha .
*****
Nah mines a Cascade lager
Eric also had a Holden badge magnet on one of the toolboxes in the shop. It's cool seeing Aussie things get around haha
Glad to see another person who doesn't push old brake fluid back into the system haha
~13 years ago i did use brake drum lathe for trucks, brakes drums and shoes at school(we did lot of those as new brakes on trucks here cost a lot more then man can think they cost).
I have yet not seen Brake disk lathe so i asume they havent make one as one series of pad = one brake disk in limit on normal use.
I'am clad to see one so i may ask one from my tool guy to help me on shaking break pedals.
Thanks for the tip! Cheers! Timppa
I like these day in the life videos, keep it up man
I enjoy these day in the life of etcg videos
ive been watching your fixing videos for a second now and this videi is the first time i stray and sir i say niceeeeeeeeee.
GoodDay
omg its back that darned van i think it got so used to the shop it gets lonely without that place
i love these day in the shop vids its the best series next to the reponut videos
So sad, if you did an 8 hour video , I would watch it:)
Brake lathe tips: first fast cut I try to cut minimum even if it doesn’t cut all of rotor, second cut SLOW and finish with non directional finish And just spring break clean on a rag does not remove the machining dust washing the rotor with soap and water and then blowing Drywood air is best. Also I always machine new rotors throw them on the lead and do a light slow cut and you’ll see what I’m talking about
And yes clean the hats of the rotor but also make sure you get in there on the taper for the hub squares up
Howdy brotha man! Dude this is wicked rad yo...I dig watchin ya go through 'life in the shop' The struggle is real...haha
Throw that tire gauge in the trash. A certain Texan already gave that more exposure than it deserves.
It was shit spotty killed it lol
+anti0918 cough Scotty Kilmer. cough
Scotty lol autocorrect lol
+anti0918 It was horrible, and horrible quality
+anti0918 +EricTheCarGuy Agreed, it was made of cheap plastic
Lol, nice intro. Classic.
I've said it before & i'll say it again about that van: kill it with fire.
I don't care how you kill it.... just kill it
+AnthonyH Nuke it from orbit--it’s the only way to be sure
jonno85uk It'd be good and siezed, though.
+AnthonyH nah, they just gonna put another engine in
I learned a lot from Erick, i have been fixing my truck and car on my own.
Please do more day in the lifes, I love these series of videos
I've been a parts guy for 13 years. On behalf of all commercial parts guys I apologize when we take time. But we deserve it also. Hope the fill in took good care of you anyhow.
Without Brian, the auto exposure on the camera remained on and therefore Eric became the dark lord in the first half minute of the video.
Erics way of compressing the piston in the calliper is better for the system to move the fluid around like that
Great job eric subscribed long time ago still viewing!!
@19:58 Holy fuck. Cringe.
+jonno85uk Cringe, you say?
+jonno85uk YUP, my thoughts exactly. Looks like he's never had a sharp filing come through a rag and embed itself in his finger.
+AnthonyH great way to lose a hand
+jonno85uk You don't wear loose clothing around lathes or use rags that can get caught. OSHA would be all over this.
+Matthew Barras Right, if you think so.
You could've used that cricket for a short comedy routine. Tell a few bad jokes and have the cricket in the background.
+Honor of Týr That's a great idea!
+Leestons Made me laugh. :)
I also bleed brakes the way you show. many people criticize that method but after I had to replace a master cylinder 2 weeks after a brake job I never push the fluid back into the master cylinder. great videos! My only wish was you did some Jeep wrangler videos. lol
Never use a rag on a grinder, bad things can happen
Jim B grinder?
Jim B yes near any operating equipmentnever use gloves or any clothes or cloths that can get caught into it
can't wait for the video of the explorer wheel bearing,I have done bearing change on 02 ford explorer, since then , it works great, it is not a fun job.looking forward to see how I did it
17:43 Did anyone else see that white stuff falling down. Very faint but noticeable, right underneath elvis. What was that?
27:40 - About finding good information: I've owned several Saabs, it's a sick addiction, really, but I have to say that the knowledge base is incredible for these vehicles. 9 out of 10 times I can do a search for my model and the issue, BAM instantly someone has had identical issues and someone else has given the correct solution. Car won't start after several short trips/car at operating temp? Crankshaft position sensor. Car won't start/crank until you row through the gears (on automatics)? Neutral safety switch. Car misfiring wildly? direct ignition cartridge. Sure, these issues might be obvious to a mechanic, but those are just a few I've experienced and fixed, and before I had experienced these issues I didn't know that that's what would cause the problem. Sometimes the issue is strange and obfuscated, but the help online is always great.
Is it ever worth machining rotors? New ones are usually cheap
Do more, these are so much fun.
pushing brake fluid back up into the master cylinder was the begining of all my problems with bad spongy brakes on my 96 chevy pickup!!!!!!
Streaming on my 50Inch tv
Big fan , keep up the good work
Can't wait to see Part #2.
Soldering might have been a better option. But love your video!
23:08 that is one of the most frustrating things about working on cars for a living. Getting the right parts the first time...
Hey, i know this is a long one but I have a Nissan Sylphy 2006, and it does have a problem with power. First off, i do experience a delayed driving force when i step on the gas especially when the engine is hot and not in motion. This happens more so when a high torque is needed for the vehicle to move either foward or backwards. For instance when i come to a complete stop and i have to go over a bump or ramp of some sort, stepping on the gas wont make it go over immediately as i will have to deeply accelerate for a few seconds..say 7 sec..for it to even start moving. Its movement will be extremely slow until it gains momentum and after which everything works as its supposed to. Whilst all these happens, the rev conter on the dash stays stationery and does not act as though there’s no acceleration at all up until the vehicle moves. My Mech had to change the throttle sensor, had its transmission control unit replaced and also checked the exhaust system for any leakages but no show. I have constantly stayed dirty on it, moving shop to shop but it seems to prove a headache for everybody. Any help/suggestions will be highly appreciated.
I usually just replace the rotors, machined rotors usually warp faster.
20:00 loose cloth + gloves on a big-ass lathe.
You're playing a dangerous game friendo
Im 1:51 in.... guessing the receiver-dyer or the high pressure line..... i had a 1996 ex f22b1 ftw. But that ended up being what was wrong with mine XD
Gotta love Eric the Car Guy.
so all your time at the machine is less than the cost of a new rotor?
when did you get your tire mount and balance equipment? looking forward to that.
Eric, there is a minimum thickness for machining rotors. Is there a min thickness between the two rotors per axle? For instance one rotor on the ft axle is 1mm difference between the two rotors after cutting.
Just a suggestion. If you had a brake pulsation from old rotors, why would you turn them? When you take even more metal away, you are just asking for that pulsation to come back in the next brake job lifespan.
To turn the rotors don't you have to look at the rotor and see the discard and then measure how much you have on the rotor and then add .35mm or .015 inches to discard and subtract from the actual rotor thickness?
Hey Eric, have you ever considered showing the process of a DIY front toe alignment? I hate to bring my car in for an alignment every time I perform any type of suspension work, or just want new tires.
+hllywd964 Yes, but I need to learn how first. I've always used the machines which made things very easy. Not available to the average DIY though.
LOL...ok, thanks for responding!
Eric I have a 20 tonight harbor freight press, if u want it?
Looks like you got a good thing going. Very well done
For those of you who aren't Premium Members...get excited for Part 2. Another van struggle of epic proportions. Grab the popcorn.
I like how you have the Aluminum wire gun lol, at least its better than sticking a spool of aluminum in the MIG
Do you sell old battery clamps and tire weights to the local gun club, Eric?
Simple pocket screwdriver with a magnet is how I test for ferrous metal or not and tig is definitely the way to weld something that thin that spool gun is like driving tacks with a sledge hammer
Do you do the process of speed stopping to set the new pads with the newly machined rotors?
Eric, a way to get your fingers on the screen and have them work is to slit the base of the glove thumb, that way, you can slip your thumb out or later back in without cutting the glove finger off or taking the gloves off.
For clarification Google "tactical glove shooting removable finger" in image mode. You'll get the idea as soon as you see the pictures.
I have a pair of surplus sniper gloves that i use for riding and it's the best thing since sliced bread.
+aserta I'm lucky with the rotors on the cars i do, i have a lathe and i made myself a rotor "chuck" from an old axle so i'm set there, but you're right, sometimes you're better off buying new ones rather than having sub-par machining from either a badly maintained machine or the operator that's picking his boogers, totally unaware of how you're supposed to run it.
the best way to mig aluminum is have the material be horizontal so you can weld it at a true 90 degree angle