I grew up in the north, rust, rust, and more rust. We moved to to Texas and it absolutely blew my mind how clean 20 year old vehicles were. Granted we deal with other destructive sources, mainly the sun, paint and interiors are not so mint lol. But I would rather deal with paint fade and cracked dashes over a frame held together with hopes and dreams lmao.
Great to see a video again from you Eric! Was bummed to see you lose your awesome shop before. As a fellow grease monkey, I've been watching your videos for years and always enjoyed them. Hope you and your family are doing well and hope to see you on the tube full time again at some point!
I would love to help him out somehow, but... there's nothing really I can do aside from watch the videos (and the ads). ...Unless he wants to move up to Canada.
He was renting and the landlord either sold the property or wouldn't renew the agreement. Big time bummer either way. Eric has always made great content.
I have definitely seen some customers want to restore more extensive rust on less appealing vehicles. But it does not make it a good idea. hahaha "What do you mean it's going to be even more expensive?" "I told you, if it is this rusty on the outside, there is probably going to be more rust hidden behind"
I would also say that spending a few hours under your vehicle before it gets holes in the frame and treating rust with grease or non-setting rustproofing wax every 6 months will avoid all these issues.
I coat my cars with Fluid Film every fall. 2 cans runs me about $30-40 and takes maybe an hour for a thorough job. Also helps to find a car wash that handles your undercarriage. That'll blast the clumped up salt and dirt off the underside before it causes corrosion too.
Y’all are over the top with the rust proofing just wash the under carriage after every winter drive (salted roads) and you’re car will last 20+ years. (Assuming it’s a new car, if you bought a rust bucket to begin with then yes rust proof it)
@@mincraftisawsome1234 Nothing over the top about it, it's called doing your due diligence. I'd rather take a couple hours every fee months to cavity wax my car and have it outlive me than not do it and have rotted cab corners and rocker panels in 15 years.
When it’s time to not buy the car: when it has a college sticker from a rust state. Dirt poor college student isn’t thinking maintenance is a high priority. Plus my 50 year old project in the driveway also spent time on salt covered New Hampshire roads and the rust is legendary.
A rusted frame is a junk car here in Arizona. I’ve run into more than one mechanic that’s moved to Arizona because they were done with working on cars with rusted bolts and nuts costing them money.
Of course you wouldn't buy one like that unless it's at scrap metal price. But if you already own one the DOT should allow you special "poverty" exemption liecense plate to warn other drivers to not follow too close. Have to abide by certain rules like: no trailer towing, no more than 12# in the bed, no driving during rush hours, no passengers under 18 y.o., no driving faster than 45mph and must pull over to pick up any parts that fall off.
Not everybody has money and has money to spend on a fucking car, do you wanna buy people new cars, buy them range rovers and teslas since you have a big mouth, you must have big bank too??
Good video! I live in the desert, so rust is no concern for local cars. Still, last year I replaced my engine and now I’m doing a complete suspension refresh - bushings, dampers, etc…Either repair would technically total my car but I look at it like this: if I put that money as a down payment on a new car, I then have a car payment and higher insurance. If I put that money in a used car, I’ll probably still have maintenance repairs to get that car where my car is already. The paint and interior is all good, so I repair and enjoy my car with upgraded parts.
Same here, keep a good car running. If the body is good, a new paint job can make it look new. The hard part for me would be damage to the dash, that would be hard to replace. Upholstery and such could be done for a couple thousand and have a nice interior.
Hey Eric. Car wizard just did a video about cars that need $4000 worth of mechanical (non-body/frame) work and the car is only worth $8k and customers are just saying "do it all" because cars have gotten so expensive. People aren't going to buy a $60k vehicle and spend $1k a month if they can just throw $4k at their current ride and keep going. I know it's a lot more complex than just that statement but it makes a lot of sense to keep your ride on the road as long as it is in safe condition.
Sadly here in the rust belt some things just can't be fixed, regardless of how good the rest of the car is. Most structural issues, especially on unibody vehicles, simply cannot be repaired without compromising the safety of the vehicle. Any body shop or mechanic that tells you they can repair unibody damage is flat out lying and endangering you.
Just spent that much on my 2002 Toyota Sienna; complete timing belt job and 4 struts/ball joints. It ought to last me another 90K miles, small price to pay for a reliable vehicle.
@nicholasclark4079 Yeah... I can certainly relate to that, my cousin just bought a 10 year old car for ~$15,000. Which is ridiculous. I know you can find better deals if you are more flexible on the age, but... If your car works, or can work for less than a couple grand (and especially if you can repair it), just keep dumping money into that pit I guess🤷♀... *Unless more expected repairs are expected soon.
@@jblyon2 Um, wrong. There are repair procedures outlined in the body manuals for unibody vehicles. Body shops wouldn't get nearly as much work if they couldn't repair unibody structure.
Almost every car I've owned has gone to the scrap yard with a perfect running engine, because I couldn't find anywhere solid enough to jack it up anymore.
Sadly yes. Unless it is unreliable garbage in the first place. I know a guy who replaced an engine, and a few transmissions on a Pontiac Montana... it was only a few years old at the time.
Nice to see you’re back doing videos again Eric! Wise advice! I wish my kid could have had this 3 years ago after buying an ‘04 GMC Canyon with a frame rusted as thin as paper. Listen to him folks! He’s right.
I saw some rust on my frame on my truck, no rot, just rust so tore it down to just a bare frame and sand blasted it and built it back up, like a brand new truck again.
I'm glad these videos are made to inform people about the damage rust does. In my experience, labor time on a frame swap (done several myself on Chevy Silverados) is usually around 30-40 hours. I'm in a collision repair setting, but have done a couple strictly from rust damage. I'm a big fan of your videos. Great content!
@@Tobi-kr1yp kinda depends on what you’d have to pay for a good used frame and what someone is willing to charge you to do it. Most cases I’m guessing around $5k give or take.
well if you're paying like $110 an hour for labor and its 40 hours thats like 4800 just in labor with taxes. the used frame is probally gonna be 500-2k so you're looking at 6-7k or a mechanically totalled truck!
Eric you are THEE master mechanic! I've been watching your videos since I was 22, I'm 36 now. I've heard a wealth of knowledge from watching your videos and just want to say thank you and God bless!
@@nicholasbragg8340 i telling you this becouse also here in the Netherlands is a big problem.. But usually takes 10 years or more.. For cars from early 2000 is thr end.. 100% is gonna be rot
Thanks Eric. You're the man who inspired me to start trying to fix my own vehicles whenever possible. I hope Rosedale Tech was a good experience for you.
Lots of misinfo on the 4runner. There's no recall for 4runners, only tacomas. The body mount in the middle is also not missing any rubber--it's built that way.
We had one where Carfax was clean and still under factory. but open the side passenger door and hinge nuts were worn over, and inside panel on that side was a little lose, overflow hose had worm drive clamps under 30,000 miles, same side had a wheel clunk when you top the suspension out in the strut. Years later, had a four wheel alignment done and the technician pulled me back. showed us to what extremes he had to dial things in to make it straight.
Rust is cancer, can almost never stop it. Mechanicals can always be fixed at a cost. If your a DIYr, mechanicals may be reasonable. But rust issues are a PASS.
Here in Ontario I've had to plate up the frames of several vehicles. What ends up happening if you don't do the entire side is it will rust then crack just on the outside of your repair. Never had an issue passing inspection with the frames I've welded, though.
Ericthecarguy, I watched your videos pulling a motor out of an S10 pickup. I followed those step by step to rebuild my motor and get it back on the road. 210,000 miles with stock, original 2.2l engine and original transmission. Thank you!
there's also a thing called being overly safe and making things not appear as bad as they really are, its called "boosting for money" a lot of car shops tend to do this just to make money and rip people off. sure the frame is rusted but its not as bad and it doesnt need replacement, small rust holes are nothing, however that frame crack needs repair. and should be the only thing looked into and brought to a customer's attention, plus its an old truck and eventually it will be scarped due to powertrain failure or the owner will decide sooner or later to get a new vehicle anyways, plus there are ways to slow or save the frame from further damage too.
I had to call it on my 2006 Silverado due to frame damage due to rust. I thought I just needed body mounts. Once they put it on the lift the shop owner called me over. Best frame repair/replace shop in Indianapolis said it's not even worth a repair. Replace the frame if I truely love the truck or replace the whole truck. Due to it being atleast a $8K replace and probably more I traded it in.
9:52 Oil leaks CAN prevent rust. If your frame is already rusty, then they help, but if your paint is still attached, the oil will strip your paint and encourage rust.
I would worry about rust holes in the floor compromising the structure of the body in an accident. I have restored a car and seen how it all ties together, nothing is very strong on its own but together make a sound structure, when part of it is rusted it’s not sound anymore.
These videos you make are amazing i really appreciate the time and hard work you put into each video. Thank you for educating us and please keep the videos coming! You are a true professional in your trade.
With current prices, if there isn't frame damage it may be worth doing repairs. How often are you going to drop a few thousand in big repairs vs. paying several hundred a month in a car payment? Given I luckily don't get much rust in my area, I'm of the mind drive it into the ground.
One time I jacked up my car, but the car didn't go up. I already knew it passed annual inspection that year just barely due to structural rust... so that was the moment I decided I had enough of it and it needed to go :) I actually sold it back to the previous owner for a reasonable sum who wanted it just for the engine.
Another great video by ITCG. What I was waiting for you to say that both cars are in really good condition for restoring if money wasn't an issue and you wanted to repair it for sentimental reasons or if it had some worth like or maybe a collectable. I have seen cars come back from the dead restored to like new.
Man I'm glad I don't live anywhere near the rust belt. Down here in Alabama, sometimes we go years without ever having a single application of road salt put down. My daily driver car is a '98 model Honda, which is kind of a project car for me. But underneath, it still looks almost brand new. It doesn't have a single spot of rust anywhere.
As a Honda Element owner the first thing to check is the underside for rust especially on northern cars where it snows. They are know to rust if you don’t wash off the salt layed down in the road.
I used to bring a small magnet when looking at a used car. If there is a ton of filler used on the body panels, the magnet wont stick (or possibly the panel is galvanized metal)
Eric, you and TRQ/1A Auto have become my life blood since acquiring a 3G TL in need of love, you guys teaming up is amazing, I am in MA if you guys want another TL to work on / talk about
12:31 4runner and Land cruiser was never covered under the service campaign. They were made in Japan. Only Tacoma Tundra and Sequoia were covered, the frames for them were made in Mexico by Dana corporation. Don't know what happened if they skipped a step in prep or used different materials then what Toyota wanted. But Dana ended up paying in a settlement. Doesn't change the fact that 4runner and Land cruiser have the same rust issue and still do. Salt kills all.
hey Eric!, missed your videos. I'm happy to see them again.
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Rust holes in the body are a structural problem if you get in an accident... Also, I'd use something bigger and heavier than a screwdriver to poke the frame with. 😁
Yes I think this is very important Eric. I just watch Eric at South Main Auto and he did an after purchase inspection on a early 2000's Subaru and the top looked nice but the undercarriage had holes and rust all over and was literally unfit for the road. With today's lack of available new cars I've seen Lexus dealers in the Chicage area with rebuilt title Lexus's on their lot. You never seen this prior to 2020. People are so desperate they are buying used cars site unseen and I am in Illinois which is a rust belt state. 99% never get on their back and looke at the undercarrige or asked the car to be put on the lift (though many cocky dealers are denying this request) to look at the undercarriage which shocks me. Any car can look perfect from the top side with repainted panels but where it counts is the bones and in Illinois and other rust belt states undercarriages start rusting at year one. I also had a 1994 Acura GS-R I loved for 19 years that have massive corrosion and holes and couldn't be realistic with parting with it until earlier this year.
undercarriage wash is a good investment during winter if you live in the rustbelt. You'll never stop the rust completely but you can slow it down significantly by not letting the salt build up under your car and sit there all winter. Every year its the same deal. I see so many cars caked in inch thick crud, sometimes to the point you can't see the license plates or even tell what the colour of the car is. They do their once a year car wash trip in the spring and call it good. I'm going through there every couple weeks at a minimum. Sure, by the end of the winter you spent probably a couple hundred bucks on washes, but if it buys you 3 or 4 more years of use in the long run that's not so bad.
Hay Eric, just a thought. What if you put the truck on the lift and it bends in haft. Is it junk? YES, but if you find a nother truck with a good frame, you can make a good one out of both. I did it twice. That's why my Toyota Tacoma is a 98,99, and 2002.
No, not that simple. First you need a couple of 2x6's to stiffen it up. Then @@madmax9009 add the zip-ties and duct tape to keep it in perfect alignment.
I got 320,000 original miles out of my 05 tahoe before the frame was destroyed went the off the highway and took out a sign that bend the frame rail and the inspection failed I didn’t even know but the vehicle was « totaled «
I live in CA but I do drive in the snow often. The front of my car is completely sandblasted from dirt/rocks that the put on the roads here but at least it looks nothing like that underneath.
That thing is mint compared the the 94 wrangler I bought a few years ago. I spent a month of my spare time welding in plate steel. I swear that thing had more plate steel and weld than original frame. Bought for $2k. Used for 2+ years and put 10k miles on it. It was starting to rust even more so I figured to sell it a few months ago while the car market was hot. I couldn't believe I got $3,300 for for it.
@Natethegreat200c It was loud, rattly, drafting in cold weather, weak heat, slow, uncomfortable, etc. It also had 180k miles and was well used. My neighbor still uses it but that thing could have a major failure, trans, eng, transfer case, etc, and it wouldn't be worth fixing if something major blew. I figured get my money back while the getting was good. And I don't think it was the safest vehicle for my family either. I had my fun with a jeep. I'll never buy one again, at least an older one.
@@anthonyg6221 I 100% understand why you got rid of it Though if you just needed an a to b car that was comfortable. The wrangler definitely can be a family daily, if you can put up with a few things hahah. But hey, some people still daily very old 2 door pickups ... it’s possible!
Would like to see you do this again with uni-body cars, lots of rust and bad stuff under those things. Also did you forget the digital confection? No cake? No happy birthday? slipping' in your old age. Seriously, good to have you back.
I work for Toyota and sadly although the 4 runners have the same frame rot as the Tacoma tundra and sequoia they never released the frames for the 4 runners even tho they were worse then the trucks
If the body and frame has no rust its always worth an engine or transmission , I like no payments I drive GM and ford trucks up to the 2006 era , I still own a 1991 GMC 1500 single cab short box with 460k on it ,oil was changes every 5 k , she's my pride and joy .
When you are looking at a vehicle that is not in the rust belt there are different parameters to consider. Interior, latch’s, steering column, paint and modules to name a few are where the problems come up in a non rust vehicle. Most rust belt cars don’t last long enough to see the above list. It’s common to see 3k-million miles on cars if the body lasts.
here in Austria, once your car has a crack rubber bushing, you can not pass the annual inspection already... the same as for body/chassis rust, once it has a visible hole, can not pass as well when the repair cost is close to your car value, even the deal will recommend to give it up.
I grew up in the north, rust, rust, and more rust. We moved to to Texas and it absolutely blew my mind how clean 20 year old vehicles were. Granted we deal with other destructive sources, mainly the sun, paint and interiors are not so mint lol. But I would rather deal with paint fade and cracked dashes over a frame held together with hopes and dreams lmao.
What's more weird to me is why there aren't more popular services that spray a rust prevention product on the metal frames and parts for cars.
Texas coastal regions have probably more rust than up north due to the slight salinity in water vapor.
Great to see a video again from you Eric! Was bummed to see you lose your awesome shop before. As a fellow grease monkey, I've been watching your videos for years and always enjoyed them. Hope you and your family are doing well and hope to see you on the tube full time again at some point!
I would love to help him out somehow, but... there's nothing really I can do aside from watch the videos (and the ads).
...Unless he wants to move up to Canada.
Do you know why he lost his shop ?
He was renting and the landlord either sold the property or wouldn't renew the agreement. Big time bummer either way. Eric has always made great content.
As a retired body man, I have to say that you hit all the important points in a very clear manner. Thank you Eric for the useful advice!
I have definitely seen some customers want to restore more extensive rust on less appealing vehicles. But it does not make it a good idea. hahaha
"What do you mean it's going to be even more expensive?"
"I told you, if it is this rusty on the outside, there is probably going to be more rust hidden behind"
I would also say that spending a few hours under your vehicle before it gets holes in the frame and treating rust with grease or non-setting rustproofing wax every 6 months will avoid all these issues.
People are lazy or cheap to do rustproofing. Doing that will save thousands in repairs smh
I coat my cars with Fluid Film every fall. 2 cans runs me about $30-40 and takes maybe an hour for a thorough job. Also helps to find a car wash that handles your undercarriage. That'll blast the clumped up salt and dirt off the underside before it causes corrosion too.
Y’all are over the top with the rust proofing just wash the under carriage after every winter drive (salted roads) and you’re car will last 20+ years. (Assuming it’s a new car, if you bought a rust bucket to begin with then yes rust proof it)
@@mincraftisawsome1234 Nothing over the top about it, it's called doing your due diligence. I'd rather take a couple hours every fee months to cavity wax my car and have it outlive me than not do it and have rotted cab corners and rocker panels in 15 years.
When it’s time to not buy the car: when it has a college sticker from a rust state.
Dirt poor college student isn’t thinking maintenance is a high priority. Plus my 50 year old project in the driveway also spent time on salt covered New Hampshire roads and the rust is legendary.
A rusted frame is a junk car here in Arizona. I’ve run into more than one mechanic that’s moved to Arizona because they were done with working on cars with rusted bolts and nuts costing them money.
Congratulations TRQ for getting Eric to participate in your videos. Eric is well spoken and an asset to the automotive repair community.
Of course you wouldn't buy one like that unless it's at scrap metal price. But if you already own one the DOT should allow you special "poverty" exemption liecense plate to warn other drivers to not follow too close. Have to abide by certain rules like: no trailer towing, no more than 12# in the bed, no driving during rush hours, no passengers under 18 y.o., no driving faster than 45mph and must pull over to pick up any parts that fall off.
Not everybody has money and has money to spend on a fucking car, do you wanna buy people new cars, buy them range rovers and teslas since you have a big mouth, you must have big bank too??
Good video! I live in the desert, so rust is no concern for local cars. Still, last year I replaced my engine and now I’m doing a complete suspension refresh - bushings, dampers, etc…Either repair would technically total my car but I look at it like this: if I put that money as a down payment on a new car, I then have a car payment and higher insurance. If I put that money in a used car, I’ll probably still have maintenance repairs to get that car where my car is already. The paint and interior is all good, so I repair and enjoy my car with upgraded parts.
Same here, keep a good car running. If the body is good, a new paint job can make it look new. The hard part for me would be damage to the dash, that would be hard to replace. Upholstery and such could be done for a couple thousand and have a nice interior.
Hey Eric. Car wizard just did a video about cars that need $4000 worth of mechanical (non-body/frame) work and the car is only worth $8k and customers are just saying "do it all" because cars have gotten so expensive. People aren't going to buy a $60k vehicle and spend $1k a month if they can just throw $4k at their current ride and keep going.
I know it's a lot more complex than just that statement but it makes a lot of sense to keep your ride on the road as long as it is in safe condition.
Sadly here in the rust belt some things just can't be fixed, regardless of how good the rest of the car is. Most structural issues, especially on unibody vehicles, simply cannot be repaired without compromising the safety of the vehicle. Any body shop or mechanic that tells you they can repair unibody damage is flat out lying and endangering you.
Just spent that much on my 2002 Toyota Sienna; complete timing belt job and 4 struts/ball joints. It ought to last me another 90K miles, small price to pay for a reliable vehicle.
@nicholasclark4079 Yeah... I can certainly relate to that, my cousin just bought a 10 year old car for ~$15,000. Which is ridiculous. I know you can find better deals if you are more flexible on the age, but... If your car works, or can work for less than a couple grand (and especially if you can repair it), just keep dumping money into that pit I guess🤷♀... *Unless more expected repairs are expected soon.
I believe I covered that at the end of the video. Thanks for your comment.
@@jblyon2 Um, wrong. There are repair procedures outlined in the body manuals for unibody vehicles. Body shops wouldn't get nearly as much work if they couldn't repair unibody structure.
Am glad you are back, hopefully you get a new garage to start up your own videos.
Thanks again Eric! And thank you TRQ. Never had a bad part from TRQ...
For the price of vehicles today. A frame swap may be cheaper than buy new!
Whenever you get a shop or workspace I want to bring you my pristine 1 owner Acura TL for some maintenance!!!
Almost every car I've owned has gone to the scrap yard with a perfect running engine, because I couldn't find anywhere solid enough to jack it up anymore.
Welcome back, Eric!!
This channel rocks! Cars are going a lot more these days, its almost makes sense to put 2k or 3k in a vehicle if itll make it last for a couple years.
Sadly yes.
Unless it is unreliable garbage in the first place. I know a guy who replaced an engine, and a few transmissions on a Pontiac Montana... it was only a few years old at the time.
Nice to see you’re back doing videos again Eric! Wise advice! I wish my kid could have had this 3 years ago after buying an ‘04 GMC Canyon with a frame rusted as thin as paper. Listen to him folks! He’s right.
I saw some rust on my frame on my truck, no rot, just rust so tore it down to just a bare frame and sand blasted it and built it back up, like a brand new truck again.
I'm glad these videos are made to inform people about the damage rust does. In my experience, labor time on a frame swap (done several myself on Chevy Silverados) is usually around 30-40 hours. I'm in a collision repair setting, but have done a couple strictly from rust damage. I'm a big fan of your videos. Great content!
Is it worth changing out the frame and how much would it run?
@@Tobi-kr1yp kinda depends on what you’d have to pay for a good used frame and what someone is willing to charge you to do it. Most cases I’m guessing around $5k give or take.
well if you're paying like $110 an hour for labor and its 40 hours thats like 4800 just in labor with taxes. the used frame is probally gonna be 500-2k so you're looking at 6-7k or a mechanically totalled truck!
Man that rust is nothing, here in New Jersey this particular truck would be legally classified as 'garage kept'!
Eric you are THEE master mechanic! I've been watching your videos since I was 22, I'm 36 now. I've heard a wealth of knowledge from watching your videos and just want to say thank you and God bless!
It sure was nice of Eric O to transport a 5 year old car from NY to you!
in NY they rot in only 5 years? i ve heard about salt and issues there
@@TheMaurob1979it’s obvious in some poor quality cheaper 5> yo cars around here that they will be rotted out in another 10 but for the most part no
@@nicholasbragg8340 i telling you this becouse also here in the Netherlands is a big problem.. But usually takes 10 years or more.. For cars from early 2000 is thr end.. 100% is gonna be rot
It was a joke folks
@@jalopy2472 and subaru the worst..
Nice to see you again Eric. You're a legend, and we've missed you,,
Thanks Eric. You're the man who inspired me to start trying to fix my own vehicles whenever possible. I hope Rosedale Tech was a good experience for you.
I’m in the salt belt of Chicago and people ask me why I went to Alabama to buy my 04 Mustang GT.
This is why. Road salt destroys cars.
Lots of misinfo on the 4runner. There's no recall for 4runners, only tacomas. The body mount in the middle is also not missing any rubber--it's built that way.
We had one where Carfax was clean and still under factory. but open the side passenger door and hinge nuts were worn over, and inside panel on that side was a little lose, overflow hose had worm drive clamps under 30,000 miles, same side had a wheel clunk when you top the suspension out in the strut. Years later, had a four wheel alignment done and the technician pulled me back. showed us to what extremes he had to dial things in to make it straight.
Good samaritan out there I say GOD BLESSED THEM with their good work helping DIY.
Rust is cancer, can almost never stop it. Mechanicals can always be fixed at a cost. If your a DIYr, mechanicals may be reasonable. But rust issues are a PASS.
Good video for buying used vehicles. Thanks.👍
Here in Ontario I've had to plate up the frames of several vehicles. What ends up happening if you don't do the entire side is it will rust then crack just on the outside of your repair. Never had an issue passing inspection with the frames I've welded, though.
@EricTheCarGuy Glad to see you back in action!!!
Ericthecarguy, I watched your videos pulling a motor out of an S10 pickup. I followed those step by step to rebuild my motor and get it back on the road. 210,000 miles with stock, original 2.2l engine and original transmission. Thank you!
there's also a thing called being overly safe and making things not appear as bad as they really are, its called "boosting for money" a lot of car shops tend to do this just to make money and rip people off. sure the frame is rusted but its not as bad and it doesnt need replacement, small rust holes are nothing, however that frame crack needs repair. and should be the only thing looked into and brought to a customer's attention, plus its an old truck and eventually it will be scarped due to powertrain failure or the owner will decide sooner or later to get a new vehicle anyways, plus there are ways to slow or save the frame from further damage too.
This was such a nice watch! Thank you Eric!
I had to call it on my 2006 Silverado due to frame damage due to rust. I thought I just needed body mounts. Once they put it on the lift the shop owner called me over. Best frame repair/replace shop in Indianapolis said it's not even worth a repair. Replace the frame if I truely love the truck or replace the whole truck. Due to it being atleast a $8K replace and probably more I traded it in.
Good to see you back making vids! Missed the content!
9:52 Oil leaks CAN prevent rust. If your frame is already rusty, then they help, but if your paint is still attached, the oil will strip your paint and encourage rust.
I would worry about rust holes in the floor compromising the structure of the body in an accident. I have restored a car and seen how it all ties together, nothing is very strong on its own but together make a sound structure, when part of it is rusted it’s not sound anymore.
Good to see you Eric! Thanks for the thoughtful content!
These videos you make are amazing i really appreciate the time and hard work you put into each video. Thank you for educating us and please keep the videos coming! You are a true professional in your trade.
good video......1 thing I do if doing the screwdriver tapping is also listen to the sound. you will also hear if its not solid
Glad to see ya!
If you see that expanding foam just walk away … it holds moisture and will rust your car right out ! And it’s a pain in the ass to get it all out
With current prices, if there isn't frame damage it may be worth doing repairs. How often are you going to drop a few thousand in big repairs vs. paying several hundred a month in a car payment? Given I luckily don't get much rust in my area, I'm of the mind drive it into the ground.
One time I jacked up my car, but the car didn't go up. I already knew it passed annual inspection that year just barely due to structural rust... so that was the moment I decided I had enough of it and it needed to go :) I actually sold it back to the previous owner for a reasonable sum who wanted it just for the engine.
Yup, done that one more than one car, jack thorugh the sill.
yep, the old crunch of doom
Another great video by ITCG. What I was waiting for you to say that both cars are in really good condition for restoring if money wasn't an issue and you wanted to repair it for sentimental reasons or if it had some worth like or maybe a collectable. I have seen cars come back from the dead restored to like new.
Great to see you here in some capacity, Eric. Best wishes to you and yours in all of your endeavors!
I think that if you have to draw a fine line as to whether or not to condemn, the question is already answered.
Man I'm glad I don't live anywhere near the rust belt. Down here in Alabama, sometimes we go years without ever having a single application of road salt put down. My daily driver car is a '98 model Honda, which is kind of a project car for me. But underneath, it still looks almost brand new. It doesn't have a single spot of rust anywhere.
I'm happy you're posting more! I've missed new content! Keep on keeping on and have a wonderful day!
thank for breaking it all down. hope to see more from you, thanks
It's nice TRQ / 1A auto(?) let you use their space. Props to them. Tell Len, "`whats up?"
Timely video for me! Looking at benching our 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Too many rust, electrical, drive train, and other issues to keep up with.
The best way to avoid rust is to buy a rust free car from outside the rust belt. Anything in the rust belt will be a problem 😢
It’s simple. If you live in the rust belt undercoat your vehicle . Vehicles are not getting any cheaper
As a Honda Element owner the first thing to check is the underside for rust especially on northern cars where it snows. They are know to rust if you don’t wash off the salt layed down in the road.
It's always good to see you Eric.
Great to see more videos Eric 😎
trq has provided parts for me that are better than what i get locally
I used to bring a small magnet when looking at a used car. If there is a ton of filler used on the body panels, the magnet wont stick (or possibly the panel is galvanized metal)
Eric, you and TRQ/1A Auto have become my life blood since acquiring a 3G TL in need of love, you guys teaming up is amazing, I am in MA if you guys want another TL to work on / talk about
My favorite car ever my 2004 Acura TL 6 speed manual. Reliable for the most part unless the previous owner neglected it
12:31 4runner and Land cruiser was never covered under the service campaign. They were made in Japan. Only Tacoma Tundra and Sequoia were covered, the frames for them were made in Mexico by Dana corporation. Don't know what happened if they skipped a step in prep or used different materials then what Toyota wanted. But Dana ended up paying in a settlement. Doesn't change the fact that 4runner and Land cruiser have the same rust issue and still do. Salt kills all.
Thank you for an excellent video! We always enjoy watching you go over important topics.
hey Eric!, missed your videos. I'm happy to see them again.
Rust holes in the body are a structural problem if you get in an accident...
Also, I'd use something bigger and heavier than a screwdriver to poke the frame with. 😁
Nice to see you buddy. Sending love to you and yours from Glasgow, Scotland!👍
Glad to have you back Eric! Welcome back.
I am glad to see you again sir!
Happy to see Eric back in action!
Yes I think this is very important Eric. I just watch Eric at South Main Auto and he did an after purchase inspection on a early 2000's Subaru and the top looked nice but the undercarriage had holes and rust all over and was literally unfit for the road. With today's lack of available new cars I've seen Lexus dealers in the Chicage area with rebuilt title Lexus's on their lot. You never seen this prior to 2020. People are so desperate they are buying used cars site unseen and I am in Illinois which is a rust belt state. 99% never get on their back and looke at the undercarrige or asked the car to be put on the lift (though many cocky dealers are denying this request) to look at the undercarriage which shocks me. Any car can look perfect from the top side with repainted panels but where it counts is the bones and in Illinois and other rust belt states undercarriages start rusting at year one. I also had a 1994 Acura GS-R I loved for 19 years that have massive corrosion and holes and couldn't be realistic with parting with it until earlier this year.
You’re a brave man walking under that vehicle!
Great to see you back on Eric! I hope to some more of your excellent videos in the near future! God bless!!
Eric, any video of yours makes me happy. This is a good way to start a long week.
Good to see you again Eric.
Great surprise to see you on the feed! Hope you’re feeling rested and refreshed Eric!
This is exactly how a pest inspector checks a house. Great video, Eric.
Here in UK 🇬🇧 if the sill on the curve has rotted its a MOT failure, i enjoyed this vid thanks Eric.
Where I live that would eliminate 90% of vehicles within 5 years of purchase. Nothing lasts on salted roads.
undercarriage wash is a good investment during winter if you live in the rustbelt. You'll never stop the rust completely but you can slow it down significantly by not letting the salt build up under your car and sit there all winter. Every year its the same deal. I see so many cars caked in inch thick crud, sometimes to the point you can't see the license plates or even tell what the colour of the car is. They do their once a year car wash trip in the spring and call it good. I'm going through there every couple weeks at a minimum. Sure, by the end of the winter you spent probably a couple hundred bucks on washes, but if it buys you 3 or 4 more years of use in the long run that's not so bad.
Nice to see you back Eric ! 👍
Man we miss you on TH-cam, hoping to see more video's😍
Thanks for sharing, Stay Safe😍
Glad you back Eric it's awesome to go to TRQ Shop
Had a Toyota Tacoma years ago that Toyota replaced the entire frame thru recall felt like I had a new vehicle. Thanks Eric good to 👀U😊
Hay Eric, just a thought. What if you put the truck on the lift and it bends in haft. Is it junk? YES, but if you find a nother truck with a good frame, you can make a good one out of both. I did it twice. That's why my Toyota Tacoma is a 98,99, and 2002.
If your truck bends in half, just add more zip-ties and duck tape. Simple.
No, not that simple. First you need a couple of 2x6's to stiffen it up. Then @@madmax9009 add the zip-ties and duct tape to keep it in perfect alignment.
I got 320,000 original miles out of my 05 tahoe before the frame was destroyed went the off the highway and took out a sign that bend the frame rail and the inspection failed I didn’t even know but the vehicle was « totaled «
I live in CA but I do drive in the snow often. The front of my car is completely sandblasted from dirt/rocks that the put on the roads here but at least it looks nothing like that underneath.
That thing is mint compared the the 94 wrangler I bought a few years ago. I spent a month of my spare time welding in plate steel. I swear that thing had more plate steel and weld than original frame. Bought for $2k. Used for 2+ years and put 10k miles on it. It was starting to rust even more so I figured to sell it a few months ago while the car market was hot. I couldn't believe I got $3,300 for for it.
Can I ask why you didn’t continue to fix it if you already did so much ? Why stop at the end ?
@Natethegreat200c It was loud, rattly, drafting in cold weather, weak heat, slow, uncomfortable, etc. It also had 180k miles and was well used. My neighbor still uses it but that thing could have a major failure, trans, eng, transfer case, etc, and it wouldn't be worth fixing if something major blew. I figured get my money back while the getting was good. And I don't think it was the safest vehicle for my family either. I had my fun with a jeep. I'll never buy one again, at least an older one.
@@anthonyg6221 I 100% understand why you got rid of it Though if you just needed an a to b car that was comfortable. The wrangler definitely can be a family daily, if you can put up with a few things hahah. But hey, some people still daily very old 2 door pickups ... it’s possible!
Superb video and analysis. Best thing to do is use an oil based undercoat from new and help prevent one getting to this point to begin with.
Would like to see you do this again with uni-body cars, lots of rust and bad stuff under those things. Also did you forget the digital confection? No cake? No happy birthday? slipping' in your old age. Seriously, good to have you back.
Haha yeaaaa i forgot that cake
I work for Toyota and sadly although the 4 runners have the same frame rot as the Tacoma tundra and sequoia they never released the frames for the 4 runners even tho they were worse then the trucks
I’ve got a 4th gen that’s falling apart. 196k and runs like a top lol it breaks my heart
If the body and frame has no rust its always worth an engine or transmission , I like no payments I drive GM and ford trucks up to the 2006 era , I still own a 1991 GMC 1500 single cab short box with 460k on it ,oil was changes every 5 k , she's my pride and joy .
Glad to see you again Eric but gosh I hate New England rust!
Man! I love to see a new ETCG vid on here.
Great seeing you again!!!
Lots of info, thanks for the video.
When you are looking at a vehicle that is not in the rust belt there are different parameters to consider. Interior, latch’s, steering column, paint and modules to name a few are where the problems come up in a non rust vehicle. Most rust belt cars don’t last long enough to see the above list. It’s common to see 3k-million miles on cars if the body lasts.
Non rust belt cars: rubbers, seals, plastics, paint, wiring. Pretty much it
You Eric watching your video's on how to DIY. Very helpful even on how to buy cars. Great Eric👍👍👍❤
here in Austria, once your car has a crack rubber bushing, you can not pass the annual inspection already...
the same as for body/chassis rust, once it has a visible hole, can not pass as well
when the repair cost is close to your car value, even the deal will recommend to give it up.
Glad to see you back!
Good to see you again.