and pulling that metal door panel back is exactly how i replaced the door handle in my 98 z71 offroad chevy. Good to see someone else who has common sense and not disassembling the door to replace a simple handle.
My truck doesn't make any of those noises because the little button is lost in the dash. You can also remove the key from the ignition when the truck is running and half the time you don't even need a key to start the truck.
@@Turbo231 mine is a 97, just replaced my handle today after watching your video, works great but I wasn't able to get my lock back in because my hands are really big and have limited movement in my fingers so I had to pull the rod from the cylinder to get the lock in. But now I'm actually able to lock my doors again I just have to unlock them from the passenger side
@@nickpowell7363 Glad the video helped, yeah, the doors are super tight to get into Will be shooting a video with it opened a bit more to fix the inside handle bar, thinking mine is bent.
I followed the annoying sound of the door-open alarm and transferred it to the glove box where it has stayed for 20+ years. I never worried about locking my keys inside because I used the remote exclusively. Over time all 4 of the door actuators have lost their MOJO...so it might be time to put it back until I can get all the actuators working again. The remote has become pretty useless at the moment.
Mine is fairly dead and killing the buzzer is one of my life goals...always out of time, but when I'm running the truck, and have the door open, and someone in the cab...it sucks.
@ i used some door handles with the locks it came with & the lock will pop out of place if it's not glued since the aftermarket parts don't stay attached
If you want to NEVER replace your door handle again.. Order one for a 1994 Chevrolet truck They WERE made of metal. I have a '99 crew cab with the cheap plastic. I just sold my mom's 1994 C2500 and the door handles worked flawlessly !! That's the last year before Chevy cheaped them out. NOTE: The metal door handles weigh 1/2 ounce more, and may adversely affect your gas mileage. 😂😂😂
This is one of the most tiresome and frustrating jobs for the GMT400. Spend 10 bucks and get a bag of fifty new inner door panel sockets and posts. The plastic posts get lost, break, or are simply missing when you remove the inner panel. Ok, now get ready to be frustrated. Take the inner door panel off. Make sure the window is up. Apply blue painters tape around the exterior handle to protect the paint. Remove all three of the torx bolts off the door latch (side that latches to the jam) and guide it down. This will give the handle some play so you can accomplish the job. The exterior handle has two bolts, one on each end of the handle. The one that points to the rear of the car is easily accessed where the door meets the jam. The other one is inside the door at the forward end of the handle. You can access this through a little peep hole that's covered with plastic on the inside door surface. Size the bolt by matching a socket to the bolt on the jam. Then use an extension to remove the bolt inside the door. If you drop it, use the access ports/vents at the bottom of the door and a magnet to retreive it. Note: When you later replace these bolts, use some painter's tape on the socket and replace the inside bolt first, but don't tighten it. Then start the bolt at the jam. Then tighten the inside one first. I only mention this because the bolts are tiny and it's very difficult to line them up with the handle. Grrrr... Remove the lock cylinder by pushing the retaining clip on the bottom with a flat head and push it out with your finger. The clips that hold the rod that spans from the handle latch bar to the latch on the side of the door are difficult to remove, but take your time and don't damage it. The rod attached to the door handle bar might come out at the bottom. It's merely seated in the top of the latch mechanism you unbolted with the three torx bolts. If it does come out, reinsert it so the hook POINTS TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE CAR. If the hook of this bar points forward towards the dash, the whole sheebang won't reassemble or operate properly. To reassemble the handle, push the lock out of the way and angle the handle out at bottom and level so the latch bar enters the space available. You'll see it won't fit in any other way. Clip in the rod (facing to the rear of the car). Do not let the lock bother you, you can hook it with a tool and bring it back up. Because it's also attached to the latch at the jam, you can move the latch back and forth to position the lock, because you don't have a lot of room to manipulate it. The lock needs to be rotated to orient the clip downward, then it needs to be pushed into the cylinder cavity until it clicks into place. The first time I used my little fingers together to do so. The second time I just hooked the keyhole with a dental pick, rotated the cylinder with my fingers, and pulled until i heard it click into place. Treat yourself to a beer, you deserve it.
and pulling that metal door panel back is exactly how i replaced the door handle in my 98 z71 offroad chevy. Good to see someone else who has common sense and not disassembling the door to replace a simple handle.
Even when I did the latch, taking that off seems less fun.
Thanks, you had tips that I didn't see in some other videos to make it easier to change my door handles.
Cool, glad to hear that!
Cheap and easy!!! Just what I wanted to see!!!!
Totally!
Theres a whole beeper but the floor board pedal you can remove to make it stop with the noise I removed mine
Yeah, it’s a matter of finding it and taking it out, I’ve just been kinda lazy about it.
What happend with the buick regal from year or so ago ?
Stuff for the Buick gets real this spring.
@@Turbo231 cool i just gotta stay subscribed!
Curious whatever happened to the 1556 bolens?
@@wheelhorseaddict884 Parked at my Dad’s in Maine. For Sale if interested.
My truck doesn't make any of those noises because the little button is lost in the dash. You can also remove the key from the ignition when the truck is running and half the time you don't even need a key to start the truck.
What year is your truck? I know the chip in the key was active in later models.
@@Turbo231 mine is a 97, just replaced my handle today after watching your video, works great but I wasn't able to get my lock back in because my hands are really big and have limited movement in my fingers so I had to pull the rod from the cylinder to get the lock in. But now I'm actually able to lock my doors again I just have to unlock them from the passenger side
@@nickpowell7363 Glad the video helped, yeah, the doors are super tight to get into Will be shooting a video with it opened a bit more to fix the inside handle bar, thinking mine is bent.
I followed the annoying sound of the door-open alarm and transferred it to the glove box where it has stayed for 20+ years. I never worried about locking my keys inside because I used the remote exclusively.
Over time all 4 of the door actuators have lost their MOJO...so it might be time to put it back until I can get all the actuators working again. The remote has become pretty useless at the moment.
Mine is fairly dead and killing the buzzer is one of my life goals...always out of time, but when I'm running the truck, and have the door open, and someone in the cab...it sucks.
Had to stop in the middle of this and listen to "Take Off".
SUPER GLUE THE LOCK INSIDE THE HANDLE
That would be a pretty good solution as long as you use a glue you can remove later when you break your door handle again.
@ i used some door handles with the locks it came with & the lock will pop out of place if it's not glued since the aftermarket parts don't stay attached
If you want to NEVER replace your door handle again..
Order one for a 1994 Chevrolet truck
They WERE made of metal. I have a '99 crew cab with the cheap plastic.
I just sold my mom's 1994 C2500 and the door handles worked flawlessly !!
That's the last year before Chevy cheaped them out.
NOTE: The metal door handles weigh 1/2 ounce more, and may adversely affect your gas mileage. 😂😂😂
I can see that working, depends on where you get your parts.
This is one of the most tiresome and frustrating jobs for the GMT400. Spend 10 bucks and get a bag of fifty new inner door panel sockets and posts. The plastic posts get lost, break, or are simply missing when you remove the inner panel. Ok, now get ready to be frustrated. Take the inner door panel off. Make sure the window is up. Apply blue painters tape around the exterior handle to protect the paint. Remove all three of the torx bolts off the door latch (side that latches to the jam) and guide it down. This will give the handle some play so you can accomplish the job. The exterior handle has two bolts, one on each end of the handle. The one that points to the rear of the car is easily accessed where the door meets the jam. The other one is inside the door at the forward end of the handle. You can access this through a little peep hole that's covered with plastic on the inside door surface. Size the bolt by matching a socket to the bolt on the jam. Then use an extension to remove the bolt inside the door. If you drop it, use the access ports/vents at the bottom of the door and a magnet to retreive it. Note: When you later replace these bolts, use some painter's tape on the socket and replace the inside bolt first, but don't tighten it. Then start the bolt at the jam. Then tighten the inside one first. I only mention this because the bolts are tiny and it's very difficult to line them up with the handle. Grrrr...
Remove the lock cylinder by pushing the retaining clip on the bottom with a flat head and push it out with your finger. The clips that hold the rod that spans from the handle latch bar to the latch on the side of the door are difficult to remove, but take your time and don't damage it. The rod attached to the door handle bar might come out at the bottom. It's merely seated in the top of the latch mechanism you unbolted with the three torx bolts. If it does come out, reinsert it so the hook POINTS TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE CAR. If the hook of this bar points forward towards the dash, the whole sheebang won't reassemble or operate properly. To reassemble the handle, push the lock out of the way and angle the handle out at bottom and level so the latch bar enters the space available. You'll see it won't fit in any other way. Clip in the rod (facing to the rear of the car). Do not let the lock bother you, you can hook it with a tool and bring it back up. Because it's also attached to the latch at the jam, you can move the latch back and forth to position the lock, because you don't have a lot of room to manipulate it. The lock needs to be rotated to orient the clip downward, then it needs to be pushed into the cylinder cavity until it clicks into place. The first time I used my little fingers together to do so. The second time I just hooked the keyhole with a dental pick, rotated the cylinder with my fingers, and pulled until i heard it click into place. Treat yourself to a beer, you deserve it.
Wow, an impressive post!
I did away with that buzzer
Good call, I should do that as it is super annoying.