Great video! The real issue here is low tension oil rings and if you use conventional oil with an extended oil change interval. If you go over 5K on your oil change you've used up all the additives and it's time to change it before it starts to sludge. The low tension oil rings used on a lot of these also have smaller return holes in the piston that become easily blocked. You should never use conventional oil in any modern engine, period! So the oil doesn't return to the crankcase and has no place to go but up to the combustion chamber. I have a 2008 Camry that had this problem and Toyota covered it in their campaign, the mechanic showed me the new pistons which have the larger drain back holes, problem solved and it now has almost 350K miles on it. I do 5K oil changes with synthetic and went up to 5W30 from 0W20 and had no effect on gas mileage.
Toyota still recommends 5k oil changes under more severe conditions that many drivers fall under. You are supposed to check oil levels after every fuel stop. I own three modern Toyotas and none burn a drop of oil even with some abuse and poor maintenance. Modern engines should not be using any oil. I still check the oil level regularly in case of a leak.
It's been an issue with vehicles for decades. The Isuzu Trooper 3.5L V6 was a notorious oil eater even when brand new. It was so bad they had to redesign the pistons halfway through and add more oil drain holes at the oil control rings on the pistons to help reduce it.
Just started watching this and wasa a mechanic most of my life and drive late model cars all my cars use a small amount of oil and had some that drank it but drove really good. The one that always got me was the antifreeze on pretty much new vehicles and zero leaks but seems the antifreeze evaporated some not much but some
My Ranger only has 56,000 miles. In the 30,000 I've owned it it's had a mostly easy life, but it has been used to the limit of its capability off road and a little beyond its manufacturer recomended towing limit a couple times. Consumes about half the "ok zone" on the dip stick in 7k miles. I changed immediately after one of the harder use times, about 4,000 miles after the previous and couldn't tell any consumption. What I have noticed is if I do the oil change, 6 quarts brings it about 2/3 of the way up the ok zone. I've been to 2 different independent shops and 2 different stealerships and they all fill barely above the minimum fill line. Stealerships used Motorcraft, i used Mobile1, dont remember what brand the independents used. 6.2 quarts as the manual says overfills slightly. I'm guessing there's just about 0.25 quart left in the system that won't drain no matter how long you wait unless you fully drop the pan and remove the head.
The 2.3 is an overall good engine. I have an early build 2015 in my Mustang and no consumption issues and like yours, oil still looks good even when i'm ready to change it at 5k. Hoping the 1.5 in my new BS does the same. My 2016 2.0 Escape engine never had consumption issues either
The 2.3 in my Ranger consumes about half the OK zone on the dipstick in 7,000 miles. That's a little over 0.25 quart. It just ticked 56,000 miles last week. Mostly had an easy life, but has been used hard a few times. If I do the oil change, 6 quarts brings it up to about 2/3 up the OK zone, the manual calls for 6.2 quart, but that overfills slightly. If a professional does it, stealership or independent, they barely fill above the minimum line.
The oil burning issue is why the anti wear ingredient, zinc, has been cut drastically cut in the latest few API designations. Zinc poisons catalytic converters. BTW burning oil is bad for cats too. Higher zinc is the reason that diesel oil is not dual spec any more. If your gas engine doesn't burn any oil you can use diesel oil safely. For years now I have been using T6 Shell Rotella 5W-40 in gasoline cars. In fact, the Nissan 4.0 I service was burning 1/4 quart in 5K now went to zero consumption with this oil and the lifter tick is gone. Engines really do sound better with slightly thicker oils. Zinc is really good for older engines that have solid lifters, like the slant 6 I own, but also benefits bucket lifters in some later engines. People could get in trouble using 15W-40. Cold weather is a no go with that viscosity. That's my two cents. Enjoyed the video.
Yeah it seems to be the case with newer cars. The quality and reliability has gone down the drain and now days car manufacturers are more concerned about profitability than anything else.
It’s one of the reasons I bought one of the last cast iron block naturally aspirated engine powered Toyotas ever made in 2022. I plan to get 400,000 miles out of it and it will never burn oil.
its crazy.my old ford leaks & burns a third of a quart between 4500 oil change intevals with 203k miles.& new engines gulp the stuff.quality has left the industry for good.
I have a 5.7 hemi 2019 ram classic it has no oil consumption. I just bought the 6.2 L TRX also just finished my first oil change. It’s been about three weeks probably 2000 to 3000 km has been put on the vehicle already and there is very little oil consumption on that engine, but I don’t think that it is even oil consumption it because it’s the oil that is being sucked up from the supercharger technically yeah that is oil consumption, but not really
2017 2.4 CRV, needs a top off every two weeks, probably a quart between oil changes. It started this nonsense at 60k miles with on time oil changes. All this new stuff is complete garbage. My old Dodge was the one to expect this.
Things I would try in your situation. Ignore manufacturer 1 year or 10k mile interval. Max 5 k miles or 6 months. Try 5W-30 instead of 0W-20. Try Valvoline Restore and Protect. I have an Accord with the EarthDreams 2.4 L engine that burned oil from new. I switched to shorter interval and 5W-30 and consumption improved substantially.
Not at all true. We have newer Jeep, Audi, and Acura vehicles in our garage and none of them drink a drop of oil between the 5,000 mile interval that I use before changing the oil. The Jeep has a Pentastar V6, the Audi has an EA888 2.0T, and the Acura has a 2.0T as well. And for what its worth, none of them have had a single issue, 100% reliable so far. And yeah, the Audi doesn't have a dipstick, but it has a dipstick tube with a plug in the end of it, so I purchased a dipstick and popped out the plug in the end of the tube. So now i have a dipstick on the Audi too.
It is not normal for a new car to burn oil - my 2010 Mazda 3 2L at 318,000 Kms burnt no oil - my 2018 Mazda 3 2L at 120,000 Kms burns no oil. I change my oil & filter every 7500 Kms = 5000 miles ... NEVER extend your oil change schedule no matter what anyone says because they don't know what they are talking about. What is written on the oil container or filter box is advertising B S and does not reflect the real world.
You do know oil eventually evaporates right? So your claim of burning no oil is somewhat correct because it eventually evaporates and is sucked into the intake through the PCV.
The newer cars burn oil because they lowered the tension on the oil control rings, allowing more oil into the combustion chamber. That burned oil is probably also coating the catalytic converter. It may contribute to reduced efficiency of the converter whereby it will set a code & cause you to replace it - not cheap!
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 You are right but there is no issue at 5000 miles and most of the additives are still present and the oil level is perfect. My last Mazda 3 did 318 K with no oil consumption measurable.
Every manufacturer is different now, some use low tension rings and they will use oil normally. If you complain to the dealer they may check it and tell you it is normal. Everyone should check their oil once a month minimally. Hyundai-Kia cars are junk from the factory, you couldn't give me one. I've owned a 2012 Nissan Versa since new, it always used some oil. All engines burn oil as part of the ICE process no matter what you may think. Check your oil, change it often, 3000 for conventional and around 5000 for synthetic. Never 7500 to 10000 miles!, as some manufacturers state now, you gotta be nuts.
In my experience tiny overstressed turbos that don’t get driven far enough burn oil pretty much 100% of the time. I own four vehicles every one of them is naturally aspirated one Acura, two Hondas, and a Toyota tundra and not one of those burns a drop of oil. One Honda is from 2008 which is a Honda Odyssey I bought brand new has 192,000 miles on it now never dripped into a drop of oil never burned oil. With that said I know a lot of people that have 2 L turbos the burn oillike fucking Colorado burns marijuana.
2,000 mile oil changes for my 2023 Honda Civic Si with 19,300 something miles that takes 0W-20 engine oil. Aggressive driving in stop and go traffic while on short routes are what my vehicle consistently encounters. Even when I was doing highway driving on longer routes, I did 2,000 mile oil changes. All the work is done at the Honda dealership. Oil consumption? Oil dilution? What are those?
@@thejmcGarage I know. That is another reason I change my oil early. I thought you would understand the oil jokes at the end. Oh well. Anyway, early oil changes helps me avoid all the issues you mentioned. Everyone else with their long oil change intervals can cry about their engine problems.
Here's a newsflash. All internal Combustion engines " use" oil. Some more, some less. Oil is An essential part of the operation of engines but also Disposable. That's why we change it at set intervals. If The biggest problem you have With your car's engine is oil Consumption then get over it. I owned a 1993 Lumia van for 23 years that died of salt exposure. It always ran a 1/2 Quart low on oil. Oh well.
Or a bad PCV. Did you ever even check it ? They fail quite often but few people remove them and try and blow backwards through them. I assumed mine was good until I removed and tested it.
Most manufacturers say 1 quart for every 1500 miles is within tolerance. Even Toyota and Honda say that. Now I've been a Honda and Toyota ASE master tech for over 20 years at both dealers. I can tell you I have only seen ONE toyota come in with a consumption problem brand new outta factory and toyota Gave the owner a damn new engine because the DEALER SPEC for bad engines is ONE QUART EVERY 1000 miles! SO how can we say to a customer with an older Camry with 190k miles on it that is starting to use oil at 1 quart per 1k miles that they need a rebuild or new engine when a new engine is doing the exact same consumption.
Great video! The real issue here is low tension oil rings and if you use conventional oil with an extended oil change interval. If you go over 5K on your oil change you've used up all the additives and it's time to change it before it starts to sludge. The low tension oil rings used on a lot of these also have smaller return holes in the piston that become easily blocked. You should never use conventional oil in any modern engine, period! So the oil doesn't return to the crankcase and has no place to go but up to the combustion chamber. I have a 2008 Camry that had this problem and Toyota covered it in their campaign, the mechanic showed me the new pistons which have the larger drain back holes, problem solved and it now has almost 350K miles on it. I do 5K oil changes with synthetic and went up to 5W30 from 0W20 and had no effect on gas mileage.
Toyota still recommends 5k oil changes under more severe conditions that many drivers fall under. You are supposed to check oil levels after every fuel stop. I own three modern Toyotas and none burn a drop of oil even with some abuse and poor maintenance. Modern engines should not be using any oil. I still check the oil level regularly in case of a leak.
It's been an issue with vehicles for decades. The Isuzu Trooper 3.5L V6 was a notorious oil eater even when brand new. It was so bad they had to redesign the pistons halfway through and add more oil drain holes at the oil control rings on the pistons to help reduce it.
My Mazda CX-5 doesn't consume anything
Just started watching this and wasa a mechanic most of my life and drive late model cars all my cars use a small amount of oil and had some that drank it but drove really good. The one that always got me was the antifreeze on pretty much new vehicles and zero leaks but seems the antifreeze evaporated some not much but some
My Ranger only has 56,000 miles. In the 30,000 I've owned it it's had a mostly easy life, but it has been used to the limit of its capability off road and a little beyond its manufacturer recomended towing limit a couple times. Consumes about half the "ok zone" on the dip stick in 7k miles. I changed immediately after one of the harder use times, about 4,000 miles after the previous and couldn't tell any consumption.
What I have noticed is if I do the oil change, 6 quarts brings it about 2/3 of the way up the ok zone. I've been to 2 different independent shops and 2 different stealerships and they all fill barely above the minimum fill line. Stealerships used Motorcraft, i used Mobile1, dont remember what brand the independents used.
6.2 quarts as the manual says overfills slightly. I'm guessing there's just about 0.25 quart left in the system that won't drain no matter how long you wait unless you fully drop the pan and remove the head.
The 2.3 is an overall good engine. I have an early build 2015 in my Mustang and no consumption issues and like yours, oil still looks good even when i'm ready to change it at 5k. Hoping the 1.5 in my new BS does the same. My 2016 2.0 Escape engine never had consumption issues either
I have a F150, 2020 with 2.7, great engine, no oil consumption.
The 2.3 in my Ranger consumes about half the OK zone on the dipstick in 7,000 miles. That's a little over 0.25 quart. It just ticked 56,000 miles last week. Mostly had an easy life, but has been used hard a few times.
If I do the oil change, 6 quarts brings it up to about 2/3 up the OK zone, the manual calls for 6.2 quart, but that overfills slightly. If a professional does it, stealership or independent, they barely fill above the minimum line.
The oil burning issue is why the anti wear ingredient, zinc, has been cut drastically cut in the latest few API designations. Zinc poisons catalytic converters. BTW burning oil is bad for cats too. Higher zinc is the reason that diesel oil is not dual spec any more. If your gas engine doesn't burn any oil you can use diesel oil safely. For years now I have been using T6 Shell Rotella 5W-40 in gasoline cars. In fact, the Nissan 4.0 I service was burning 1/4 quart in 5K now went to zero consumption with this oil and the lifter tick is gone. Engines really do sound better with slightly thicker oils. Zinc is really good for older engines that have solid lifters, like the slant 6 I own, but also benefits bucket lifters in some later engines. People could get in trouble using 15W-40. Cold weather is a no go with that viscosity.
That's my two cents. Enjoyed the video.
Yeah it seems to be the case with newer cars. The quality and reliability has gone down the drain and now days car manufacturers are more concerned about profitability than anything else.
It’s one of the reasons I bought one of the last cast iron block naturally aspirated engine powered Toyotas ever made in 2022. I plan to get 400,000 miles out of it and it will never burn oil.
its crazy.my old ford leaks & burns a third of a quart between 4500 oil change intevals with 203k miles.& new engines gulp the stuff.quality has left the industry for good.
I have a 5.7 hemi 2019 ram classic it has no oil consumption. I just bought the 6.2 L TRX also just finished my first oil change. It’s been about three weeks probably 2000 to 3000 km has been put on the vehicle already and there is very little oil consumption on that engine, but I don’t think that it is even oil consumption it because it’s the oil that is being sucked up from the supercharger technically yeah that is oil consumption, but not really
2017 2.4 CRV, needs a top off every two weeks, probably a quart between oil changes. It started this nonsense at 60k miles with on time oil changes. All this new stuff is complete garbage. My old Dodge was the one to expect this.
Things I would try in your situation. Ignore manufacturer 1 year or 10k mile interval. Max 5 k miles or 6 months. Try 5W-30 instead of 0W-20. Try Valvoline Restore and Protect. I have an Accord with the EarthDreams 2.4 L engine that burned oil from new. I switched to shorter interval and 5W-30 and consumption improved substantially.
Not at all true. We have newer Jeep, Audi, and Acura vehicles in our garage and none of them drink a drop of oil between the 5,000 mile interval that I use before changing the oil. The Jeep has a Pentastar V6, the Audi has an EA888 2.0T, and the Acura has a 2.0T as well. And for what its worth, none of them have had a single issue, 100% reliable so far.
And yeah, the Audi doesn't have a dipstick, but it has a dipstick tube with a plug in the end of it, so I purchased a dipstick and popped out the plug in the end of the tube. So now i have a dipstick on the Audi too.
It is not normal for a new car to burn oil - my 2010 Mazda 3 2L at 318,000 Kms burnt no oil - my 2018 Mazda 3 2L at 120,000 Kms burns no oil. I change my oil & filter every 7500 Kms = 5000 miles ... NEVER extend your oil change schedule no matter what anyone says because they don't know what they are talking about. What is written on the oil container or filter box is advertising B S and does not reflect the real world.
You do know oil eventually evaporates right? So your claim of burning no oil is somewhat correct because it eventually evaporates and is sucked into the intake through the PCV.
The newer cars burn oil because they lowered the tension on the oil control rings, allowing more oil into the combustion chamber. That burned oil is probably also coating the catalytic converter. It may contribute to reduced efficiency of the converter whereby it will set a code & cause you to replace it - not cheap!
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 You are right but there is no issue at 5000 miles and most of the additives are still present and the oil level is perfect. My last Mazda 3 did 318 K with no oil consumption measurable.
Every car I’ve had , not many, have liked .5-1 qt after 2.5k. Except my old 350.
Every manufacturer is different now, some use low tension rings and they will use oil normally. If you complain to the dealer they may check it and tell you it is normal. Everyone should check their oil once a month minimally. Hyundai-Kia cars are junk from the factory, you couldn't give me one. I've owned a 2012 Nissan Versa since new, it always used some oil. All engines burn oil as part of the ICE process no matter what you may think. Check your oil, change it often, 3000 for conventional and around 5000 for synthetic. Never 7500 to 10000 miles!, as some manufacturers state now, you gotta be nuts.
In my experience tiny overstressed turbos that don’t get driven far enough burn oil pretty much 100% of the time. I own four vehicles every one of them is naturally aspirated one Acura, two Hondas, and a Toyota tundra and not one of those burns a drop of oil. One Honda is from 2008 which is a Honda Odyssey I bought brand new has 192,000 miles on it now never dripped into a drop of oil never burned oil. With that said I know a lot of people that have 2 L turbos the burn oillike fucking Colorado burns marijuana.
2,000 mile oil changes for my 2023 Honda Civic Si with 19,300 something miles that takes 0W-20 engine oil. Aggressive driving in stop and go traffic while on short routes are what my vehicle consistently encounters. Even when I was doing highway driving on longer routes, I did 2,000 mile oil changes. All the work is done at the Honda dealership. Oil consumption? Oil dilution? What are those?
Honda's very own 1.5 Turbo is known for oil dilution.
@@thejmcGarage I know. That is another reason I change my oil early. I thought you would understand the oil jokes at the end. Oh well. Anyway, early oil changes helps me avoid all the issues you mentioned. Everyone else with their long oil change intervals can cry about their engine problems.
Gotta use lint free rags, don't want that in your engine
Your thumbnails are like nothing else we've seen lol
Here's a newsflash. All internal
Combustion engines " use" oil.
Some more, some less. Oil is
An essential part of the operation of engines but also
Disposable. That's why we change it at set intervals. If
The biggest problem you have
With your car's engine is oil
Consumption then get over it.
I owned a 1993 Lumia van for
23 years that died of salt exposure. It always ran a 1/2
Quart low on oil. Oh well.
You had the Lumia for 23 years! You should be proud of that, lol.
Kia and Hyundai burn through it. My wife had a Hyundai never leaked oil but would just disappear over time. This is due to poor engineering.
Or a bad PCV. Did you ever even check it ? They fail quite often but few people remove them and try and blow backwards through them. I assumed mine was good until I removed and tested it.
Oil does dissipate over time. It gets hot cools some evaporation is expected.
Its normal because they’re all making horrible engines now. Its not supposed to be normal though.
Most manufacturers say 1 quart for every 1500 miles is within tolerance. Even Toyota and Honda say that. Now I've been a Honda and Toyota ASE master tech for over 20 years at both dealers. I can tell you I have only seen ONE toyota come in with a consumption problem brand new outta factory and toyota Gave the owner a damn new engine because the DEALER SPEC for bad engines is ONE QUART EVERY 1000 miles! SO how can we say to a customer with an older Camry with 190k miles on it that is starting to use oil at 1 quart per 1k miles that they need a rebuild or new engine when a new engine is doing the exact same consumption.