I have the Norwood blade sharpener that uses a Dremel tool but never able to get a blade that cuts straight after sharpening. I'm beginning to think now that it is due to not having the proper tension on the blade. One of the wheels doesn't usually turn. By far the best video I have seen on this matter.
You know what - I started with the one that used the Dremel tool and returned it asap. I could not get it to work right for anything. Undoubtedly me - but I had the same result as you. Kinda wrecked two blades - not permanently, but for purposes of cutting, and despite the cost of the grinding wheels, this one gets the job done. I think I mentioned it in the video, but an incorrect set-up on my part caused me to permanently wreck two blades before I got it sorted out, but have had excellent results since. Thanks for tuning in. Glad this was helpful. All the best!
Thanks for the video. Excellent job showing the process and what can go wrong. A couple of questions: Could you put a caliper on the blade to measure the width so you'll know how much metal is left in the treat heated area at the tip of the tooth? Do you examine the weld area for cracks? I believe there is a dye you can put on metal that will make micro cracks visible, but I haven't tried it. Finally, have you thought about running oil coolant over the blade as you sharpen it to cool the blade and extend the life of the stone?
Hey! Dave - great suggestions all! In sequence> 1) I definitely should put a caliper on the blade as you suggest. I'm pretty economical as I do my sharpening (meaning, I don't believe I over-sharpen, and the pace at which I keep it going should be putting very little heat into the tooth, but your idea will give me a measurement that I can conclusively compare with others. 2) I do look for cracks, but good point - if there is a dye available that would be awesome. I'll do some searching. 3) Oil coolant - excellent idea. Cannot possible hurt. Just picked up another grinder that I got cheap and is in excellent condition that will do just that. Definitely hopeful that will make a difference! As always, thanks for tuning in and being part of my 1000 week journey. (If you're wondering what that means, I'll explain more in a soon to be released video.)
Good morning Howard!!😀😀 Practice makes perfect!!😀😀 I used to borrow a LT 40 wood Mizer from a friend of mine years back and he always supplied me with sharp blades. He used to buy blades a inch longer than the mill called for. That way when the weld broke he could clean up the ends and weld them back together. That way he would get a few more sharpenings out of a blade. He was such a tightwad that he would run them till there was nothing left and they began to crack between the teeth in other places. Take care my friend!!😀😀❤❤👍👍 TTYL!!!😀😀 Logger Al
Wow - your friend would have been a lot better welder than me. Clever guy! I remember my dad welding and grinding those big 6' circular saws at the very first Jacobson Bros. sawmill out at Horsefly, BC. All the very best to you!
Catch the sparks and grit in a HF magnetic parts dish, set up just behind the wheel. It looks like you are grinding to heavy. Why dont you have a sawmill shed?
Thanks for the tip.Love it. Over the past four years since that video I've continued to refine my sharpening techniques. Grinding much lighter these days. Thanks for tuning in . . .
My frustration stems from trying to figure out where multiple size unlabled nuts,washers,and bolts go to put my 2022 Woodland Mills HM130MAX with lap siding attachment and 25.7 feet of track together "/
There's a lot to be said for a good assembly manual. I had no issues with the Norwood HK#36 in that regard. If you watch the assembly episodes tho you'll notice just a little frustration about something like 300 carriage bolts entirely missing from the order, along with some other critical parts. It was at that point that I had to sit down and have a little talk with myself, and remind myself that "This is supposed to be fun. It's about the journey not the destination." hahaha
@Howard Kettner the only problem with the Woodland Mills owners manual is that it's printed entirely in metric, I'm old school American, only read SAE standard "/ great picture illustrations though ")
@Howard Kettner Woodland Mills is a Canadian company in Ontario Canada, best customer service possible, willing to stay on phone and walk you through every step ")
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I have the Norwood blade sharpener that uses a Dremel tool but never able to get a blade that cuts straight after sharpening. I'm beginning to think now that it is due to not having the proper tension on the blade. One of the wheels doesn't usually turn. By far the best video I have seen on this matter.
You know what - I started with the one that used the Dremel tool and returned it asap. I could not get it to work right for anything. Undoubtedly me - but I had the same result as you. Kinda wrecked two blades - not permanently, but for purposes of cutting, and despite the cost of the grinding wheels, this one gets the job done. I think I mentioned it in the video, but an incorrect set-up on my part caused me to permanently wreck two blades before I got it sorted out, but have had excellent results since.
Thanks for tuning in. Glad this was helpful.
All the best!
Oh - and one more thing. I've been a big fan of keto for a couple of years. Those recipes of yours look amazing!
I just saw this Norwood Dremel Sharpener on YT.
That’s not even a Toy…!!
Thanks for the video. Excellent job showing the process and what can go wrong. A couple of questions: Could you put a caliper on the blade to measure the width so you'll know how much metal is left in the treat heated area at the tip of the tooth? Do you examine the weld area for cracks? I believe there is a dye you can put on metal that will make micro cracks visible, but I haven't tried it. Finally, have you thought about running oil coolant over the blade as you sharpen it to cool the blade and extend the life of the stone?
Hey! Dave - great suggestions all! In sequence>
1) I definitely should put a caliper on the blade as you suggest. I'm pretty economical as I do my sharpening (meaning, I don't believe I over-sharpen, and the pace at which I keep it going should be putting very little heat into the tooth, but your idea will give me a measurement that I can conclusively compare with others.
2) I do look for cracks, but good point - if there is a dye available that would be awesome. I'll do some searching.
3) Oil coolant - excellent idea. Cannot possible hurt. Just picked up another grinder that I got cheap and is in excellent condition that will do just that. Definitely hopeful that will make a difference!
As always, thanks for tuning in and being part of my 1000 week journey. (If you're wondering what that means, I'll explain more in a soon to be released video.)
Good morning Howard!!😀😀
Practice makes perfect!!😀😀
I used to borrow a LT 40 wood Mizer from a friend of mine years back and he always supplied me with sharp blades. He used to buy blades a inch longer than the mill called for. That way when the weld broke he could clean up the ends and weld them back together. That way he would get a few more sharpenings out of a blade. He was such a tightwad that he would run them till there was nothing left and they began to crack between the teeth in other places.
Take care my friend!!😀😀❤❤👍👍
TTYL!!!😀😀
Logger Al
Wow - your friend would have been a lot better welder than me. Clever guy!
I remember my dad welding and grinding those big 6' circular saws at the very first Jacobson Bros. sawmill out at Horsefly, BC.
All the very best to you!
@@howardkettner it takes a good welder, a steady hand and a good eye.
Excellent tutorial, Howard! I think I'm on notebook number two! 👏👏👏
Catch the sparks and grit in a HF magnetic parts dish, set up just behind the wheel. It looks like you are grinding to heavy. Why dont you have a sawmill shed?
Thanks for the tip.Love it.
Over the past four years since that video I've continued to refine my sharpening techniques. Grinding much lighter these days.
Thanks for tuning in . . .
My frustration stems from trying to figure out where multiple size unlabled nuts,washers,and bolts go to put my 2022 Woodland Mills HM130MAX with lap siding attachment and 25.7 feet of track together "/
There's a lot to be said for a good assembly manual. I had no issues with the Norwood HK#36 in that regard. If you watch the assembly episodes tho you'll notice just a little frustration about something like 300 carriage bolts entirely missing from the order, along with some other critical parts.
It was at that point that I had to sit down and have a little talk with myself, and remind myself that "This is supposed to be fun. It's about the journey not the destination." hahaha
@Howard Kettner the only problem with the Woodland Mills owners manual is that it's printed entirely in metric, I'm old school American, only read SAE standard "/ great picture illustrations though ")
@Howard Kettner Woodland Mills is a Canadian company in Ontario Canada, best customer service possible, willing to stay on phone and walk you through every step ")