I have been trying this method, but seems like I cant saw very long, and some blades just want to wander down or up in the cut. i am thinking the blade should be set? what are your thoughts?
Make sure you don't blue or loose the temper on the very tip of the tooth, very easy to do, that could possibly explain why they dull fast.. Consistency is important/crucial. If your taking more off of one side of blade than the other it may start to walk, incorrect blade guide set up is another culprit. Blade tooth set is more quality of cut, rough vs smooth, in my opinion. If your having some blades cutting correctly your doing it right just not all the time. Hope that helps.
Full profile sharpening is the best way to go , and if you are serious about case hardening the gullet use a fine burr grinder to "polish" the gullet, sharpening only the face of the tooth is making the the tooth thinner each time which in turn may create a weaker tooth and "wash boarding "may occur, I suppose which ever way works keep using that method👍
Very neat idea. How many sharpening's are you getting out of a blade? After you have sharpened a blade about 7 times or so, Have you every measured the teeth spacing?
This is great, thank you! Setting up my sawmill soon and really want a way to sharpen at home that isn't crazy expensive. This seems like a good way to go.
It's the best I've been able to come up with after half a dozen attempts or so. Take your time I'm sure you'll get the hang of it. Thank you for the comment
if you take a small bright led flashlight and shine it on the face of the tooth after you have sharpened it one stroke the reflection from the sharprned surface will show you how the stone is contacting the tooth and if needed make adjustments. I waer a small headlamp so I don't have to fool with flashlight
Update; Man I shaped a grinding wheel to match my blades and had good success,. or way better than what I had. Problem is it was time consuming. I know that my blades cut like a razor,.... But.. I also know holding the blade by hand I'm getting some variations in angles and depth,. don't get me wrong I had surprising results by hand, considering. I again was using a full on bench grinder not the chainsaw grinder. But I have now gone to the Dark Side..... And sprung for a RS30 with setter from Woodland. Reason for this ... I fell into a supply of muddy and rock filled logs, and I can only clean so much(I miss a little here and there) So motivation got the best of me. I know that I am going to be sharpening A LOT more blades AND (more frequently....) And can't just be waiting for Rainy Days. On a side note,. My wallet, or paper fold is Less now. Like you said, a sawmill is nothing without blades(Blades are a Vital...REQUIREMENT) Cheers and thanks for helping me along.
I have surprisingly sharpened with a file with good results, but my beard got longer before I was done. Have trust issues.... that I will actually get MY blades back that I sent and not somebody else's that has been sharpened 3x's already. ETC.... Shop guys swear only they can sharpen blades, chainsaw shops are the same.... News break, I can sharpen too.... I just have to get past that learning curve..... and then setting... Cheers. got a thumbs up...
I think you should use a circular blade saw sharpening disc. It has an outer rim glued to it made of diamon dust or something like that. Buy a good quality one and it will last a very long time. I have one and i sharpen all my saw blades, i have also made a jig to sharpen drill bits. And keep in mind the circular saw blades have carbite teeth. It hasn't changed it's shape a bit, still flat. The downside is, the rim wich has the diamond stone is only on one side and is pretty slim. But compared to the stone you're using that sharpens just like factory. You have to keep in mind that the disc, must be perfectly balanced in centerd in the axle. The problem with normal sharpening stones is that the steel eats them as you grind and if you only use one little side of the stone all the time it will make a small gove in there wich will ruing the sharpening of the most important part, the tip of the tooth.
or you can use the grinder itself to make an adapte from wood or mdf. I made mine from a piece of laminate flooring. You just need a drill bit of the shaft diameter and some pieces of wood to form a jig so you can shave it with a chisel. What centers the disc is those 2 washers from the grinder's shaft, basicly you just need a ring to match the holes.@@CobbleCreekCabins
I believe after watching your video and seeing how you sharpen your blades this is a better way. Any chance you can share you neighbor's contact info for the grinder? I'd like to buy one from him and help out his cause.
Hey! Thanks for your comment and wanting to help the cause...at this time he is sold out but they are all over the internet (though may be badged differently)...be sure to get one with the same adjustability...Thanks for watching 😊
Great way to ruin your blades horrible job I know I have do e it just like this np control of how much you take off the face so the teeth are never the same
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I have been trying this method, but seems like I cant saw very long, and some blades just want to wander down or up in the cut. i am thinking the blade should be set? what are your thoughts?
Make sure you don't blue or loose the temper on the very tip of the tooth, very easy to do, that could possibly explain why they dull fast.. Consistency is important/crucial. If your taking more off of one side of blade than the other it may start to walk, incorrect blade guide set up is another culprit. Blade tooth set is more quality of cut, rough vs smooth, in my opinion. If your having some blades cutting correctly your doing it right just not all the time. Hope that helps.
Full profile sharpening is the best way to go , and if you are serious about case hardening the gullet use a fine burr grinder to "polish" the gullet, sharpening only the face of the tooth is making the the tooth thinner each time which in turn may create a weaker tooth and "wash boarding "may occur, I suppose which ever way works keep using that method👍
Very neat idea. How many sharpening's are you getting out of a blade? After you have sharpened a blade about 7 times or so, Have you every measured the teeth spacing?
My blades have only lasted about 3-5 sharpenings before metal fatigue and failure, or run into metal. Hope that helps
This is great, thank you! Setting up my sawmill soon and really want a way to sharpen at home that isn't crazy expensive. This seems like a good way to go.
It's the best I've been able to come up with after half a dozen attempts or so. Take your time I'm sure you'll get the hang of it. Thank you for the comment
I use an auto drag sharpener and found it important to re dress the face about every 8 blades . If not you can get negative rake. Ask me how I know 😮
@@willcoe8419Thanks I'll have to look up auto drag sharpener. I know what your saying about the negative rake. It's a thing
Love the inventive way you came up with to sharpen them! How much use do you get out of a blade before it cracks/fails?
Typically 4-5 resharpenings before they give up the ghost. Nice question and thanks for watching.
if you take a small bright led flashlight and shine it on the face of the tooth after you have sharpened it one stroke the reflection from the sharprned surface will show you how the stone is contacting the tooth and if needed make adjustments. I waer a small headlamp so I don't have to fool with flashlight
Update;
Man I shaped a grinding wheel to match my blades and had good success,. or way better than what I had.
Problem is it was time consuming.
I know that my blades cut like a razor,.... But..
I also know holding the blade by hand I'm getting some variations in angles and depth,. don't get me wrong I had surprising results by hand, considering.
I again was using a full on bench grinder not the chainsaw grinder.
But I have now gone to the Dark Side.....
And sprung for a RS30 with setter from Woodland.
Reason for this ...
I fell into a supply of muddy and rock filled logs, and I can only clean so much(I miss a little here and there)
So motivation got the best of me.
I know that I am going to be sharpening A LOT more blades AND (more frequently....)
And can't just be waiting for Rainy Days.
On a side note,. My wallet, or paper fold is Less now.
Like you said, a sawmill is nothing without blades(Blades are a Vital...REQUIREMENT)
Cheers and thanks for helping me along.
Put A video up and take on clients. Make some of that money back. Just don't keep peoples blade for little or no reason.
Good vid, thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it. Hope it helps.
I find that with this technique eventually a tiny groove forms in the grinding wheel that takes the top of the tooth off.
Ya thats been mentioned previously, after a bit I just redress the wheel. A diamond grinding disk would be ideal.
I built a similar one, with a custom base, I can get my blades sharper than factory, and they cut better.👍
Sweet, its so satisfiying isn't it.
I have surprisingly sharpened with a file with good results, but my beard got longer before I was done.
Have trust issues.... that I will actually get MY blades back that I sent and not somebody else's that has been sharpened 3x's already. ETC....
Shop guys swear only they can sharpen blades, chainsaw shops are the same.... News break, I can sharpen too....
I just have to get past that learning curve..... and then setting...
Cheers.
got a thumbs up...
Excellent, thank you.
I think you should use a circular blade saw sharpening disc. It has an outer rim glued to it made of diamon dust or something like that. Buy a good quality one and it will last a very long time.
I have one and i sharpen all my saw blades, i have also made a jig to sharpen drill bits. And keep in mind the circular saw blades have carbite teeth. It hasn't changed it's shape a bit, still flat. The downside is, the rim wich has the diamond stone is only on one side and is pretty slim. But compared to the stone you're using that sharpens just like factory. You have to keep in mind that the disc, must be perfectly balanced in centerd in the axle. The problem with normal sharpening stones is that the steel eats them as you grind and if you only use one little side of the stone all the time it will make a small gove in there wich will ruing the sharpening of the most important part, the tip of the tooth.
Excellent, maybe I can find one that will match my arbor.
or you can use the grinder itself to make an adapte from wood or mdf. I made mine from a piece of laminate flooring. You just need a drill bit of the shaft diameter and some pieces of wood to form a jig so you can shave it with a chisel. What centers the disc is those 2 washers from the grinder's shaft, basicly you just need a ring to match the holes.@@CobbleCreekCabins
I believe after watching your video and seeing how you sharpen your blades this is a better way. Any chance you can share you neighbor's contact info for the grinder? I'd like to buy one from him and help out his cause.
Hey! Thanks for your comment and wanting to help the cause...at this time he is sold out but they are all over the internet (though may be badged differently)...be sure to get one with the same adjustability...Thanks for watching 😊
Very inconsistent way to try no tooth I'd the same height won't work well unless your very lucky
Good detailed explanations, but could of done without all the irritating annoying noises you were making.
At least you get to walk away, how do you think I feel. LOL! Thanks for watching
If you gotta sharpen a blade sharpener a blade don't talk.
Great way to ruin your blades horrible job I know I have do e it just like this np control of how much you take off the face so the teeth are never the same
New sub. LT-15 GO. Tennessee
Thanks for the sub! See ya soon 😊
Good vid, thanks for sharing
Your welcome