Carbide tipped blade testing video #2, sharpening and cutting....and learning
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- I'm this video we attempt sharpening the Carbide blade with a dimond wheel. Everything was looking good until we went to cutting with the blade.
Video #1
• Carbide tipped sawmill...
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Tommy, I like your style clear concise, and really well explanation of things.
Thank you I appreciate it. Make sure to check out the video I'm posting tomorrow, 26 January 2022. Mr. Robert and I go over recent issues with blades and the supply chain.
Those carbide tipped blades are a winner, smooth cut and long lasting
The cut quality is amazing, I'm working a pice of Ash that I cut with it....no planing required, amazing finish.
Things worth doing are worth getting right. Having hit so many nails on the first run of that blade and it still cutting is solid. When you figure the sharpening out I think it will be a winner, especially for wide old trees that are high value but likely to have embedded steel.
Now I head to video 3. 👍🏼
My father ran a saw sharpening service for 30 yrs . I know that it very helpful to run coolant to keep the blade and especially the tooth cool while sharpening. Diamond sharpening wheels are a necessary for sharpening carbide. Also the teeth may have a bevel alternating back and forth replacing the set of crosscut or unbeveled with a straight tooth for ripping. Good luck. I hope this is some help to you. Thanks for the video. Keep on sawing.
Thanks for the info, we are learning everyday about this blade and how to tune in the sharpening.
Hey guys! I also remember that when my dad sharpened carbide blades, he along with the coolant to keep the teeth cool he sharpened a tip (top of the tooth)and also a face grind. I don't know which one to sharpen first or if it even matters which order to sharpen. You may inquire with Foley. They sell all types of sharpening equipment and teach you how the procedure for each. They probably have a website. Google a search. I'll bet you're going to find out what you need to know there. Good luck Tim.
For non carbide blade CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) wheels are best, nothing else comes close. I use Woodmizer's profiled cutting wheels for all my blades they cut faster and cooler than any other wheel material. A tiny layer on the wheel will sharpen hundreds of blades.
Tips on carbide will never feel as sharp as steel teeth. The included angles are different as well as it is a different material. Nothing is going to perform well cutting metal except a metal cutting blade…period. However, two points:
1. That walnut is worth more than a couple boxes of the steel blades, so I would consider not cutting the length back to avoid the nails, just use aa many cheap steel blades as needed.
2. Stellite will out perform carbide for hitting nails, but nothing will hit nails without damage except metal cutting blades which feed extremely slow.
Also, just a guess but it looks like the resharpened carbide blade needed to feed about 25% faster to prevent heating the blade from spillage of dust.
And yes, I’ve been doing industrial saw repair over 40 years, and experience is a really good teacher.
Happy sawing!
Thanks for the information. I love the comments that provide feedback for us to learn from. I agree walnut is worthwhile, I don't mind hitting nails because we can fix the blade with a little effort.
Where are it's nice to see someone who agrees with me now I'm cutting tools cut metal better than anything else out there as a machinist I certainly learned that and it's also good to know that you are doing what you can and doing the best you can I love to see the professionalism and I like to see somebody who's willing to look at something from a different angle and get a new perspective to comments that I saw were great and good luck sawing and I hope you get no more nail strikes but that's just kind of the nature of the beast I'm not a Sawyer but I do understand how things work when it comes to cutting offsets etc turning steel or brass or aluminum you always have to have some compensation and the way you do things I know that when you're a Sawyer and you're doing your job and you got a man sharpening and knows what he's doing it makes it so much easier that's the difference between someone who thinks they know and someone who does know it's called wisdom and professionalism good luck 🤠😎
For your general information having been a machinist and having worked with both high-speed steel and carbide I can tell you that high-speed steel or steel cuts by sharpness whereas carbide cuts by the hardness of the blade in other words the dwell so it will last longer it's the Dynamics of the carbide carbide is not sharp as you would think in high-speed steel or steel it it just it just cuts differently and it cuts like I said by dwell where is high speed steel needs to be very sharp in order to cut well that is the difference and it is highly well resistant but carbide does have one drawback it is much harder than steel and it will not take a lot of hard impacts before it starts to Chip and break you can shatter it I know I've done it but good luck with that it seems to work very well 😎🤠
Thanks for the information. I have shattered a few teeth on rocks. Just like you stated hard impacts are tough on the teeth.
Vince DeWitt , owner of Smithfield Saw & Knife in Trenton Ontario. The main core of my business is sharpening commercial carbide tipped circular blades. As well, I humor the saw mill guys and grind with the Cooks Cat Claw. The way you guys are trying to sharpen that is beyond hilarious. The Cat would do it, with a resin diamond wheel, not an electro-plated wheel. The carbide tooth that is silver soldered to the bands, makes the KERF of your cut for clearance , NOT called set......SET is "bending of the teeth left and right, to accommodate clearance"
OK, carbide....is approx 15X the cut life vs steel. I am in the midst of adapting carbide tipped band grinding on my circular saw grinder, which is German made, brand called Akemat , look them up.
Yes we really screwed up trying to sharpen it the first time, we had the wheel and wanted to hive it a go. After getting the proper stone we were able to sharpen it correctly and the test cuts have been good.
Thank you, this was our first time playing with carbide teeth
I'm in East Tennessee. Riceville. Interested in these blades.. how do they do in pine?
Will he sharpen n return via Mail?
I don't know if this is true, but the Woodmizer tech told me to always cut the gullet just a bit in front of the tooth to remove micro cracks and reduce te risk of breaking the band.
I had to give up for health reasons, but was all set to rebuild the blade sharpener to always follow the gullet lengthways instead of across. Don't know why I haven't seen comments about this?
very helpfull, thanks.
I think you guys are on to something here!
Dipping and diving because the front of the band is longer than the back, so needs expanding.
diamond is the best, green stone would ware quick. your down fall on grinder looks a little fast may need a some oil on it
surprised your stone worked the edge should all be dull. you may need a dragger behind the blade for support
We had a dimond wheel on just not the right type.
Lovely atlast you have tried for sharpening the carbide blade.
How the swing mill plate juin
He sure loves to hear himself talk
Would you care to tell us who made this blade? We've had good luck with Lenox blades
first comment
as long as you don't break the carbide teeth off, that blade could be sharpened maybe ten times or more.
Were did y'all buy the blade at. I'd like to get one for my Woodland Mills HM 126.
I'll second that!
The company is waiting on a huge delivery of blades, they are not in yet, unfortunately they are stuck in transit.
@@TCSawmills ?
@@TCSawmills When they do can please let me know. Thank you for answering me back. I've alot of people who don't. How am I supposed to learn if you don't talk to me. Again I Thank You very much.
I would love to try one on my cooks MP32. I am cutting a lot of frozen logs and going through too many blades.
I have a suggestion their are band saw blades that cut steel and look similar to a wood blade one would have to run it slower but I think it might work If a person suspected a nail in a log cant it out with the steel saw if no nails are hit change back to the wood blade. I plan to do it but since you like experimenting maybe it would be something to consider trying If I done it I wouldn't be making a video of it!
Do you have a metal detector? I bought one at Rural King for $35.00, works great
I do and I knew there was a nail. I didn't want to dig it out and ruin the wood. Blades can usually take a decent hit and still be fixed with a setter and sharpener. Really the only logs I will use the metal detector on are pine and cedar logs. Sometimes the nail helps to add character to a slab.
Where can i buy carbide blades
I got this one from Timberking, not sure if they carry them anymore.
Do you have a link for those carbide blades?
Timberking now has them in standard woodmizer and Timberking sizes
how long before the body cracks ?
Still testing nothing yet.
Looks to me that’s a bit too much. Taking of from sharpening
Is the stone for carbide
Stone for regular steel and a dimond wheel for carbide.
Wy aren't you changing the angle like you normally do on steel blades. Skipping to every third tooth
There is no set to the teeth on a carbide blade.
@@TCSawmills right, understood, but shouldn't the face still be ground left, right, straight. Just curious...
The tooth geometry is different and it makes this type blade drag the sawdust out better. It is actually producing a different shaped wood chip (or sawdust flake) and very likely will require a slightly different feed rate.
A metal detector would sort the nail problem
Nice video, but a lot of repetition and fluff here and in the first video. This could have been cut to 20-25 minutes total and been easier to watch.
I talk a lot. This was not my best....I got better 😆
@@TCSawmills LOL. Sorry, as I reread this, it sounded pretty harsh. Sorry, not my Intent.
That video was shot a long time ago. I try to use all constructive criticism. I still talk a lot 😆
Can't you contact the company on sharpening?damn nails.
The company I got the blade from is just the supplier, they wanted me to do the testing. I've ordered the correct stone now and we have tweaked the sharpener to cut correctly. Testing will start again next week.
@@TCSawmills good deal.
Darn you repeat your self a lot. Lol
Unsubscribed! Playing games!
No games, company has had blades on order since the Fall, still don't have them in hand.
I find these videos helpful. A friend is going to let me trial a couple carbide blades on my Woodland Mills. I was looking for ways to sharpen the carbide tips. Is there a proper machine, angle and stone material to properly sharpen carbide?
You do know they make metal detector