@@bigclivedotcom Would you like a damaged (one or two burned tracers) "transmission control module" from a 2001 jimny free of charge? I bet you could identify the fault/fix this unit!
I just have to come in with a warning here. WEAR GLASSES (like Clive does)! I too had the habit of misusing that exact type of pliers (a Plato copy). When i was nibbling away at a bit of plastic one of the shears (hope that is what i mean) broke off and hit my eye. I had to have quite complicated surgery and was blinded for weeks from blood in the eye. It is about ten years ago and my vision is almost as good as the other eye now but the pupil does not close as much and it is not round any more. I now use a standard side cutter that I have grinded down on the flat side to get the same kind of tool. Thank you from Sweden.
Thank you for the engagement! I actually just tested another pair i have been afraid to use, and by only squeezing the handles a little harder than usual, and not cutting anything, it broke in the same way! We should urge our friend Clive to please do a video on this. And my modified standard side cutters I mentioned above are fantastic and so much more stable.
Kinda reminds me of using my dremel with one of those tiny cut off wheels. It broke and a fragment tried to embed itself into my forehead. Yeah I wear safety glasses now. Although I must say my encounter was far easier to predict than yours, good to know, thank you.
I think now that LEDs have become a commodity, and a full generation of product developers and engineers will never have known (the limitations of) incandescent lights; now we will see actual innovation and existing lighting implementations being transformed.
I'm an electrician and its a blessing and a curse. There are some light designs that are only posible because of LED's but they are also a royal pain in the ass to install.
@@Willard_guy Hi Willard. Why are those a pita to install? Because of weird shapes or because they are minuscule perhaps? I’m just curious. Thanks in advance!
@@Conservator. Just the shape and how they are supported from the celling. This was also mostly in high end office spaces so they were custom one off designs as well.
I went into a Lamps Plus a month ago. About 30% of the floor lamps, desk lamps, chandeliers, wall sconces, have unserviceable LEDs inside of them (the trendy modern looking designs mainly). The claim of energy savings comes out in the wash when you throw the entire unit away if the LED stops working. Thankfully they are pretty reliable, but it's an odd trade-off.
You know- Taking things to bits has always been something that I've felt at home doing... since childhood. In the past number of years, It's come about that my favorite tool for doing so when not much else will suffice, is a Dremel type tool with the itty bitty cut-off wheels in silicon carbide. My other favorite tool when nothing else will work is a diamond needle file... It will cut into anything, even hard ceramics and stuff, and will persuade stuff to break at that spot even if you don't cut all the way through it... and they can be had on the cheap. "always use the right tool for the job," one says- as one hammers on a screw with a wrench. Peace be upon you, sir.
If you 3D print a holder for a filament-like that you can do that as a single part without so no gluing is required. Print the part so you can put the filament without it extending above the surface. Then pause the print, insert the filament, and resume the printing so the filament is completely enclosed. You can add a pause in the GCode. the simplest way to see how it is done is to look at tutorials for changing color in 3D printers without that capability built in. It might be a good idea to use a bit of glue to keep the filament in place so it do not move when the top part is printed
You would need to do some trickery to accomplish that successfully tho. Definately not enough to only leave a section out in the model just big enough for the LED filament to fit. Your actual nozzle on the printer is wider than the bead of plastic it squirts out, so there needs to be a gap to give enough space for that. Second problem is, the slicer does not know where the LED filament is. So you need to tell it to never ever move the nozzle in a way that would collide with the LED filament, once it's placed in the print. The third issue i kinda see is temperature. PLA gets squirted out of the nozzle at over 200°C. I'm not sure this LED filament and the LED chips really like that heat treatment, as they will definately get some warm feelings while the printer keeps squirting plastic out nearby...
@@ProtonOne11 The idea was to create a channel the LED filament fit completely into. That way the nozzle can move anywhere on the next layer without hitting the filament. The limitation is that you can only have a filament on a single plane that gets embedded in the plastic but you could make it extend up or down by gluing some part. So the nozzle hitting the LED filament would not be a problem. The temperature might be a problem but the amount of plastic is quite low so it do not manage to heat up the surrounding parts a lot. The LED filament is also covered with silicone and it should be able to handle the temperature, It is used in socks that cover many print heads. The flexible circuit board and LED do survive the solder and melt at a similar temperature as PLA. I would guess that the LED filament has been exposed to a higher temperature during its manufacture than the PLA will ever heat it up to.
Hi Clive. May I suggest that you add an inexpensive jeweler's frame saw to your arsenal? I could see where a couple of vertical cuts with the saw would enable the removal of the lamp base quite easily.
Hi Clive, next time you do a mains LED lamp teardown, could you try undervoltage testing? I'm in a part of Europe where the mains voltage dips to around 210V at peak times in the winter (lots of electric heating and cooking). At less than 215V, various LED bulbs in the house start to flicker..... very annoying.
Rectified and smoothed mains at 210V input should give an output voltage of about 297V. You may well find that lamps with this type of linear controller avoids the flickering problem.
Now I feel really dumb. My kitchen light has been flickering this winter and I've been wondering why. Twas on colder days. Never put two and two together.
As he noted the box suggest they have 110-130V, 220-240V and 85-265V models ("universal") of this specific model.. Perhaps you should shop at say AliExpress instead of local supplies, many?/most? LED lamps on AE will either be available in universal models or are ONLY available as universal to save costs (since they're selling to both 115V and 230V markets they would otherwise need to stock both types). Usually "universale" means that the lowest voltage is somewhere in the 80-95V range, with relatively stable lumen output above that - the regulation is often not perfect, but certainly it won't flicker from it. The usual method of making dimmable LEDs require them to be fixed voltage rather than universal, but even there there's now universal voltage models. The circuit to do so usually involve a microcontroller, but these days a $0.02 one can easily figure out whether it's a leading or trailing edge dimmer and then locate the edge, derive a "dimming" percentage and then use that to drive the LED via a PWM DC source.
I recently installed some canless LED recessed lights in my fathers house. They all have switches on them that allows you to change between 4 or 5 color temperatures. I'd love to see a teardown of one of those things.
When I need to separate metal from plastic, I use a lighter. I heat the metal a bit and the plastic starts "creeping" which us perfect to slide the metal parts from the plastic without even deforming the plastic all that much. Usually, with a drop of glue you can stick it all back together without any obvious damages.
Never skip the destruction. Side cutters come in two flavors, the good ones you use on occasion and the cheap ones you buy in bulk to reveal the innards of cheap Chinese electronics.
Or, you bought a two pack and saved the second one until that day you accidentally tried to cut steel wire that was a bit too hard and dented them. So the dented pair became the destructors
Not too cheap of cutters though I warn you. Too much Chinesium in the cutters may react with Chinesium in the import product being disassembled. Annihilation chain reaction.
I know nothing abt electronics, and I'm probably never gonna be super interested in the nitty gritty of it all, but I love your laid back videos, so chill and informative!
destructive examination, that was how I began to play with my toys as I was like 6 years when I got my first screwdriver, the way I played with my toys was to take them apart and play with the parts instead lol. learning began early with me but it would take quite a bit longer before I eventually started to repair stuff instead lol
I’ll never complain. I like to see you nibble some electronic stuff out of its ‘wrapping’ and talk your way through but I also massively appreciate your effort when you say the famous words: “One moment please” 😉 and then present to beautiful blow-ups of the circuit board.
don't skip destruction montages, clive. It heals our insecurities for the times when we tried to wreck something but it beat us ragged! It reminds us that we aren't inadequate, it's just that difficult and heals our raging pink masculinity
The LED layout reminds me of some Roman mosaic patterns. Nice analysis, many thanks! [Conspiracy theory: are these hidden schematics? ...we shall never know!]
I really want to incorporate some of these filaments into my projects. It's a very good alternative to EL wire and lossly fiber optics. It's just really annoying that the lengths are only 130mm and 300mm without any way to cut them.
Somewhere I read that heat sinks and spreads through the circuit board material pretty well, and the presence of a continuous copper plane isn't essential for heat disappation.
I dig checking out these different led styles, that diffused neon looking one you have done was great too with the printed frames. So many ideas. I have wrapped fairy lights around nail patterns on walls which makes another basic lighted shape.
I love how flexible LEDs can be in terms of design, you really have a lot of options since you can pretty much shape them however you like. COBs are a good example of that
I really like the LED filament technology, it really simplifies the problem of running from mains voltage without the switching power supply and heavy heat sink, and avoiding the shadow of the big heat sink and power supply. So far I've had good results with them except for poor water sealing at the base sometimes ruining them in outdoor applications. "Suitable for wet locations" does not mean they will survive a hosing, but neither would the older LED's or CFL's.
O did I miss that first one, the round shape with glass tubing? Love that look. I'm a bit 'steampunk' inclined. Fits in nicely. Have to see if I can score a few. Thanks. Edit: found the link in your comment. "A while ago" turned out to be November 2019. haha! Also I've got enough bulbs to last me a century already. I do prefer the glass over plastic tube though.
One of the most curious components i have seen is a thermal coupler. It looks like an SMD resistor but its electrically open circuit, it provides only thermal connection. Which would be the opposite of using a 0-Ohm link or an SMD fuse for the purpose of thermal isolation.
Man that takes me back to my childhood. Dad and 4 of his brothers all owned farms very close to each other. Dad got the old home place, his brothers got parts of the farm land from grandfather who was the first owner of that very large area of North Dakota Prairie. They were the first owners after the land suffered the removal of the local native American's. The Home place, where I grew up was bult in 1910, the year of my fathers birth. One of his brothers got land that my grandfathers brother had began farming the next from us in distance built a large 2 story home to raise his 3 children on. That was built after the power lines were laid in so he had it wired for 110 volts, a very modern home where we without power learned the joy of television on visits to that farm. What interested me, perhaps even more then the television and that wonderful table lamp with pictures of jets and an inner shade driven from heat of the bulb that had clouds that seemed to make the jets fly was the kitchen light. In the center of that very large kitchen, a farm kitchen if you will was a circular florescent light. I spent long hours just looking at that light, trying to figure out how they bent that long bulb into a circle. I was very young at the time.
It’s wild how far LED tech had come. You should try getting those filament segments working again and make your own lamp! And if you want some lower voltage and thicker filaments, Adafruit has LED nOOdles
How about getting one of those 'rotary tools' from Aldi - AKA Dremel - to open these lamp bases? Would take much less time and be a cleaner cut as well!! ;-))
I recently acquired a cheap thermal camera, and I'm quite pleased with how well it works. Up until recently, thermal cameras really have been quite expensive, and FLIR was just never any good at the consumer / low-end level. This really has changed recently with the advent of decent chinese sensors, offering higher resolution and framerates. (or maybe this isn't recent) The one I got is an Infiray T2L. It connects to a smartphone via USB-C and has a manual focus lens so you can get very close to electronic components and such. I figured this could be a useful tool for you, and a cool thing to see in your videos.
About them LED bulbs and full generations growing up not knowing about incandescent bulbs: when I was young there was a programmer problem: you have a room with three lightbulbs, and three switches in another room. You can't see from the switch room into the lightbulb room. You can do whatever you want with the switches, and then go to the other room and tell which switch corresponds to which of the bulbs. And the solution was to turn two switches on, wait a bit, turn one of them off, and then go to the other room, see which one is on, and feel which one is hot. That problem doesn't work with those new-fangled LED bulbs.
furthermore they went totally amok with having no longevity and servicability at all with the led crap. led has some great capability but manufacturers chose to make crap stuff with it.
@@channelsixtyseven067 yes, thats great for electricans and many already do mods for reliability. (me included - i run an led max. at 66% /better 50% of it's rated power capability. that triples or quadruples the lifetime and on top raises the lumen per watt => efficiency). but the problem is more with non technical people. the stuff one can buy off the shelf is mostly crap and the average person can't do anything about that.
I was thinking of 3D printing something to take a flexible LED string. You can get low voltage LED string for use on model railway layouts and similar.
Those cutters are very sharp but brittle. If you are cutting something and you twist them, the cutting edge can snap off and fly around the room. They are meant to cut copper and you can nick them cutting steel wire. I use a small flat head like a jewelers screwdriver to pry up the edge and as someone mentioned, a heat gun to show it who pays for the electricity. So you ever make new things from the parts?
I was about to say that while they look nice, they're difficult to dubify. But then I saw the 28mA total. Isn't that 14 mA per LED? They're not grilling the LEDs to make them fail? Could it be that this is actually a decent design?
I think you require you name in 3d printed light👍 or perhaps something cute towards your own accord. Thank you Clive for your peek at the advancement, I like to be aware of what is coming down the pipe. 👍❤️✌️
An easy way to get the crimped metal thread base off, without totally destroying it, is to drill each of the divots out with a 1-1.5mm drill bit. Then it just slips/unscrews.
@5:40, those cutters are also fantastic for cutting equal lengths because the knife edge is flush with the surface being cut and almost no sharp edges remaining
It's good that the halves of the plastic tube were glued together. If they weren't, or even if they were but with any gaps in the glue, there would be minimal creepage distance between mains inside and the outer surface that you can touch.
Clive, if you can remember, will you add to the schematics the details of voltages etc. A nice simple circuit design to build and use. Will the circuit handle or work for various AC to DC output options/loads between its voltage and amperage output?
The linear regulators are designed to operate in a small margin between the LED voltage and rectified mains at relatively low current. They just go inline with the LEDs.
Thank you, Clive. Could this be used to provide shadow-free illumination of documents when making colour digital photographs of them, with camera lens looking through the centre of the square? I am thinking of Clive's famous Tupperware[TM] photo booth. Would interaction of flickering and shutter speed, or illumination colour, be a problem?
I wonder if you could make a "Three Color Light" where you had the LED's polarity flipped, allowing you to swap current flow. Red one way, Green the other? Warm white one way, Cold white the other?
The red/green type definitely exists, as I seem to have some of them... only two pins, and they show red hooked up one way and green if hooked up the other way. They are very exciting... at first anyway- After the novelty wears off they are merely pleasing. This of course reflects my own experience, and may not reflect that of other folks... as usual- Please seek excitement at your own risk and discretion. peace.
@@primateinterfacetechnologi6220 The red/green ones have been around for decades, we used to use them as an on/off indicator in industrial equipment (or power available/equipment running more specifically)
A question for clever people and/or circuit board designers: The led filament was surely attached to the PCB by hand, right? Soldering through-hole components is slow and annoying anyway, but having to thread and deal with long unwieldy lengths of wire on top of that is doubly so. Can't they just add like a "castelated edge" such that you could just bend the wires over the edge and solder without having to worry about the length or threading anything? Is that more expensive or something? It's not like the wires experience any mechanical loads or anything.
As LED lights take over do we need 240v 5 amp lighting circuits any more? If the average house has ten ceiling pendants and the led is 10 watts, you only need a circuit to supply 100 watts not the 1000 watts we have now. I am sure they could develop another fitting so that only led's can be plugged in.
Lock ring should allow you to rotate/screw bulb to your preferred orientation, then "lock" it in that position by screwing down against the socket (as long as the button contact at the bottom of the bulb is making an electrical connection).
Eye protection is critical. I've had similar side cutters (from a reputable Japanese manufacturer) break during heavy use and had the broken-end hit within an inch of my eye.
Hm now I'm thinking I need to get some clear filament again to be able to print cheapo neon sign equivalents. I bought some of that LED filament after Clive showed it last month.
I know this wouldn't be practical for mass-manufacture, but would it be feasible to 3d-print half a filament lamp holder, lay in the filament, then just keep on printing for a single monolithic seamless lamp?
I wish I had a 3D printer thus type of light would be great for decorationg at christmas. I dont want a load i=of these running on the mains but a low voltage version would be nice. I could do strings of "faiiy" lights with diffrent shapes. I guess that might be a thing from China for next yule time. Thanks for sharing 2x👍
._.)/ Actually, there's a safe way to open the E27 Cap without cutting it.. You can use Curved Jaw Locking Plier (its called Alligator Plier in my place), and bent the E27 Cap a little bit, repeat it one more time with different orientation.. Then, you can pull the E27 Screw Cap using the Plier.. Or, you can use E27 Bakelite Fitting as the grip to pull it off..
Your mission Mr. Phelps should you decide to accept it, is to produce an LED lamp which lights when you look at it!!! 😂 Neat trick if you could pull it off, however I'm not so certain how many people would be willing to have lasers shining in their eyes looking for a reflection or basically a 50% reflection from the human eye ... Well, that was my thought on how it could be done to distinguish the difference between a human eye and any other reflective surface in the vicinity. Another great Video Clive, I appreciate it
@@bigclivedotcom While I don't remember how, I recall Thomas Sandlander has done it previously. Just need to be sure not to let it sit too long, or the printer may shut down for safety. (Mine, for instance, times out at 3 minutes on a pause.)
@bigclivedotcom yes you can, in a few ways. First though you open slicing software, and slice the file to generate layers. Then adjust the cutaway layer-view slider till you find the level you want to pause at. Take note of the layer number. From here it differs depending on the printer's firmware. On many slicers, there is an option like "pause at layer height", that inserts a pause for filament changes. Slic3r and Cura slicers have this. When the printer pauses this eay, you have to manually resume from the LCD screen. This way the slicer edits the gCode for you. Otherwise you can insert custom gCode manually at this layer by editing the gCode file. The command/syntax changes depending on the firmware your printer runs. On most it is "M0", on Prusa it's "M601". However if you want to pause the print for a set time, "G4" is universally used by all firmware. The final way to do this is to use print Host software like Octoprint or Repetier, that do the pause at a software layer - they literally pause sending gCode at the layer until you manually click resume in the software.
Pretty bold of them to make the glass bulb so thin but have it be exactly the part people are going to grab and twist thinking it's plastic. Sounds like a recipie for increased bandaid sales
Hi Clive I was wondering if maybe the Box shape was actually a is actually a hot dog shape then put into a heater that could then mold it into its square shape or star shape or whatever shape they want.
Very neat technology. I do wish we could have seen the glass version lit up though, unless it's in an earlier video that I missed
It is in an earlier video.
th-cam.com/video/GD_BLc3R4N8/w-d-xo.html
@@bigclivedotcom Well done for unfurling the glass tube since then, wish you had not paused the recording for that bit 😜
@@bigclivedotcom Would you like a damaged (one or two burned tracers) "transmission control module" from a 2001 jimny free of charge? I bet you could identify the fault/fix this unit!
боже за что мне столько пиздежа в предложку он просто не умолкает.
I just have to come in with a warning here. WEAR GLASSES (like Clive does)!
I too had the habit of misusing that exact type of pliers (a Plato copy). When i was nibbling away at a bit of plastic one of the shears (hope that is what i mean) broke off and hit my eye. I had to have quite complicated surgery and was blinded for weeks from blood in the eye. It is about ten years ago and my vision is almost as good as the other eye now but the pupil does not close as much and it is not round any more.
I now use a standard side cutter that I have grinded down on the flat side to get the same kind of tool.
Thank you from Sweden.
I had the same failure - jaw snapped near the pivot and shot at me (thankfully only hitting me in the chest).
Thank you for the engagement! I actually just tested another pair i have been afraid to use, and by only squeezing the handles a little harder than usual, and not cutting anything, it broke in the same way!
We should urge our friend Clive to please do a video on this. And my modified standard side cutters I mentioned above are fantastic and so much more stable.
Kinda reminds me of using my dremel with one of those tiny cut off wheels. It broke and a fragment tried to embed itself into my forehead. Yeah I wear safety glasses now. Although I must say my encounter was far easier to predict than yours, good to know, thank you.
th-cam.com/video/FTU5y6ZxuR8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/FTU5y6ZxuR8/w-d-xo.html
I think now that LEDs have become a commodity, and a full generation of product developers and engineers will never have known (the limitations of) incandescent lights; now we will see actual innovation and existing lighting implementations being transformed.
thank you, so we keep up to date!
I'm an electrician and its a blessing and a curse. There are some light designs that are only posible because of LED's but they are also a royal pain in the ass to install.
@@Willard_guy Hi Willard.
Why are those a pita to install? Because of weird shapes or because they are minuscule perhaps? I’m just curious. Thanks in advance!
@@Conservator. Just the shape and how they are supported from the celling. This was also mostly in high end office spaces so they were custom one off designs as well.
I went into a Lamps Plus a month ago. About 30% of the floor lamps, desk lamps, chandeliers, wall sconces, have unserviceable LEDs inside of them (the trendy modern looking designs mainly). The claim of energy savings comes out in the wash when you throw the entire unit away if the LED stops working. Thankfully they are pretty reliable, but it's an odd trade-off.
You know- Taking things to bits has always been something that I've felt at home doing... since childhood. In the past number of years, It's come about that my favorite tool for doing so when not much else will suffice, is a Dremel type tool with the itty bitty cut-off wheels in silicon carbide. My other favorite tool when nothing else will work is a diamond needle file... It will cut into anything, even hard ceramics and stuff, and will persuade stuff to break at that spot even if you don't cut all the way through it... and they can be had on the cheap.
"always use the right tool for the job," one says- as one hammers on a screw with a wrench.
Peace be upon you, sir.
If you 3D print a holder for a filament-like that you can do that as a single part without so no gluing is required. Print the part so you can put the filament without it extending above the surface. Then pause the print, insert the filament, and resume the printing so the filament is completely enclosed. You can add a pause in the GCode. the simplest way to see how it is done is to look at tutorials for changing color in 3D printers without that capability built in.
It might be a good idea to use a bit of glue to keep the filament in place so it do not move when the top part is printed
You would need to do some trickery to accomplish that successfully tho. Definately not enough to only leave a section out in the model just big enough for the LED filament to fit. Your actual nozzle on the printer is wider than the bead of plastic it squirts out, so there needs to be a gap to give enough space for that. Second problem is, the slicer does not know where the LED filament is. So you need to tell it to never ever move the nozzle in a way that would collide with the LED filament, once it's placed in the print. The third issue i kinda see is temperature. PLA gets squirted out of the nozzle at over 200°C. I'm not sure this LED filament and the LED chips really like that heat treatment, as they will definately get some warm feelings while the printer keeps squirting plastic out nearby...
@@ProtonOne11 The idea was to create a channel the LED filament fit completely into. That way the nozzle can move anywhere on the next layer without hitting the filament. The limitation is that you can only have a filament on a single plane that gets embedded in the plastic but you could make it extend up or down by gluing some part. So the nozzle hitting the LED filament would not be a problem.
The temperature might be a problem but the amount of plastic is quite low so it do not manage to heat up the surrounding parts a lot. The LED filament is also covered with silicone and it should be able to handle the temperature, It is used in socks that cover many print heads. The flexible circuit board and LED do survive the solder and melt at a similar temperature as PLA. I would guess that the LED filament has been exposed to a higher temperature during its manufacture than the PLA will ever heat it up to.
th-cam.com/video/FTU5y6ZxuR8/w-d-xo.html
Hi Clive. May I suggest that you add an inexpensive jeweler's frame saw to your arsenal? I could see where a couple of vertical cuts with the saw would enable the removal of the lamp base quite easily.
Hi Clive, next time you do a mains LED lamp teardown, could you try undervoltage testing? I'm in a part of Europe where the mains voltage dips to around 210V at peak times in the winter (lots of electric heating and cooking). At less than 215V, various LED bulbs in the house start to flicker..... very annoying.
Rectified and smoothed mains at 210V input should give an output voltage of about 297V. You may well find that lamps with this type of linear controller avoids the flickering problem.
Now I feel really dumb. My kitchen light has been flickering this winter and I've been wondering why. Twas on colder days. Never put two and two together.
As he noted the box suggest they have 110-130V, 220-240V and 85-265V models ("universal") of this specific model..
Perhaps you should shop at say AliExpress instead of local supplies, many?/most? LED lamps on AE will either be available in universal models or are ONLY available as universal to save costs (since they're selling to both 115V and 230V markets they would otherwise need to stock both types).
Usually "universale" means that the lowest voltage is somewhere in the 80-95V range, with relatively stable lumen output above that - the regulation is often not perfect, but certainly it won't flicker from it.
The usual method of making dimmable LEDs require them to be fixed voltage rather than universal, but even there there's now universal voltage models. The circuit to do so usually involve a microcontroller, but these days a $0.02 one can easily figure out whether it's a leading or trailing edge dimmer and then locate the edge, derive a "dimming" percentage and then use that to drive the LED via a PWM DC source.
I'm always monitoring the mains voltage bit I've never seen it dip under 220. My UPS would kick in under that and that never happend.
@@Northern5tar not if your in the UK, there pretty anal about grid frequency
I recently installed some canless LED recessed lights in my fathers house. They all have switches on them that allows you to change between 4 or 5 color temperatures. I'd love to see a teardown of one of those things.
th-cam.com/video/FTU5y6ZxuR8/w-d-xo.html
When I need to separate metal from plastic, I use a lighter. I heat the metal a bit and the plastic starts "creeping" which us perfect to slide the metal parts from the plastic without even deforming the plastic all that much.
Usually, with a drop of glue you can stick it all back together without any obvious damages.
Thanks for sharing 🤔
Never skip the destruction. Side cutters come in two flavors, the good ones you use on occasion and the cheap ones you buy in bulk to reveal the innards of cheap Chinese electronics.
Or the decent ones your co-worker borrows then you find out later he's been using them to pry open stuff. 😠
Or, you bought a two pack and saved the second one until that day you accidentally tried to cut steel wire that was a bit too hard and dented them. So the dented pair became the destructors
Not too cheap of cutters though I warn you.
Too much Chinesium in the cutters may react with Chinesium in the import product being disassembled.
Annihilation chain reaction.
And the ones that someone borrowed and blew a hole in cutting live wires turning them into wire strippers and the borrowers teeth to summer teeth
Yes, I love the "Just a moment, please..." and then jump cut to the product splayed out in bits.
I know nothing abt electronics, and I'm probably never gonna be super interested in the nitty gritty of it all, but I love your laid back videos, so chill and informative!
destructive examination, that was how I began to play with my toys as I was like 6 years when I got my first screwdriver, the way I played with my toys was to take them apart and play with the parts instead lol. learning began early with me but it would take quite a bit longer before I eventually started to repair stuff instead lol
I’ll never complain. I like to see you nibble some electronic stuff out of its ‘wrapping’ and talk your way through but I also massively appreciate your effort when you say the famous words:
“One moment please” 😉 and then present to beautiful blow-ups of the circuit board.
th-cam.com/video/FTU5y6ZxuR8/w-d-xo.html
don't skip destruction montages, clive. It heals our insecurities for the times when we tried to wreck something but it beat us ragged! It reminds us that we aren't inadequate, it's just that difficult and heals our raging pink masculinity
The LED layout reminds me of some Roman mosaic patterns. Nice analysis, many thanks!
[Conspiracy theory: are these hidden schematics? ...we shall never know!]
The pattern is similar to Greek designs, as well.
my thoughts exactly, greek, like the other guy said.
I don't skip the deconstruction part! Even when watching again and again!
I really want to incorporate some of these filaments into my projects. It's a very good alternative to EL wire and lossly fiber optics. It's just really annoying that the lengths are only 130mm and 300mm without any way to cut them.
Somewhere I read that heat sinks and spreads through the circuit board material pretty well, and the presence of a continuous copper plane isn't essential for heat disappation.
I dig checking out these different led styles, that diffused neon looking one you have done was great too with the printed frames. So many ideas. I have wrapped fairy lights around nail patterns on walls which makes another basic lighted shape.
I love how flexible LEDs can be in terms of design, you really have a lot of options since you can pretty much shape them however you like. COBs are a good example of that
th-cam.com/video/FTU5y6ZxuR8/w-d-xo.html
@@James-qw7hp Why are you spamming this?
@@soundspark this video is not mine. from another channel. I liked the article and wanted to share it
@@James-qw7hp By posting the link repeatedly as unrelated replies?
@@soundspark such content is interesting to many viewers on You Tube. just wanted to share
I really like the LED filament technology, it really simplifies the problem of running from mains voltage without the switching power supply and heavy heat sink, and avoiding the shadow of the big heat sink and power supply. So far I've had good results with them except for poor water sealing at the base sometimes ruining them in outdoor applications. "Suitable for wet locations" does not mean they will survive a hosing, but neither would the older LED's or CFL's.
th-cam.com/video/FTU5y6ZxuR8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Clive. It would be interesting to see the multi-voltage versions power supply and LED layout.
th-cam.com/video/FTU5y6ZxuR8/w-d-xo.html
'They will just glow if you look at them' killed me 🤣
LED... evolving since 1907... They've come so far since the 70's... nice
O did I miss that first one, the round shape with glass tubing? Love that look. I'm a bit 'steampunk' inclined. Fits in nicely. Have to see if I can score a few. Thanks.
Edit: found the link in your comment. "A while ago" turned out to be November 2019. haha! Also I've got enough bulbs to last me a century already. I do prefer the glass over plastic tube though.
One of the most curious components i have seen is a thermal coupler. It looks like an SMD resistor but its electrically open circuit, it provides only thermal connection.
Which would be the opposite of using a 0-Ohm link or an SMD fuse for the purpose of thermal isolation.
Those side-cutters - I bought myself a pair after watching how good they serve you. They are great, and cheap. Thank you, Clive.
Man that takes me back to my childhood. Dad and 4 of his brothers all owned farms very close to each other. Dad got the old home place, his brothers got parts of the farm land from grandfather who was the first owner of that very large area of North Dakota Prairie. They were the first owners after the land suffered the removal of the local native American's. The Home place, where I grew up was bult in 1910, the year of my fathers birth. One of his brothers got land that my grandfathers brother had began farming the next from us in distance built a large 2 story home to raise his 3 children on. That was built after the power lines were laid in so he had it wired for 110 volts, a very modern home where we without power learned the joy of television on visits to that farm. What interested me, perhaps even more then the television and that wonderful table lamp with pictures of jets and an inner shade driven from heat of the bulb that had clouds that seemed to make the jets fly was the kitchen light. In the center of that very large kitchen, a farm kitchen if you will was a circular florescent light. I spent long hours just looking at that light, trying to figure out how they bent that long bulb into a circle. I was very young at the time.
It’s wild how far LED tech had come. You should try getting those filament segments working again and make your own lamp! And if you want some lower voltage and thicker filaments, Adafruit has LED nOOdles
I love the way you explain things. It is always a pleasure to watch your video’s especially the ones about whiskey 😀 cheers from Holland Clive 👍
How about getting one of those 'rotary tools' from Aldi - AKA Dremel - to open these lamp bases? Would take much less time and be a cleaner cut as well!! ;-))
I recently acquired a cheap thermal camera, and I'm quite pleased with how well it works. Up until recently, thermal cameras really have been quite expensive, and FLIR was just never any good at the consumer / low-end level. This really has changed recently with the advent of decent chinese sensors, offering higher resolution and framerates. (or maybe this isn't recent)
The one I got is an Infiray T2L. It connects to a smartphone via USB-C and has a manual focus lens so you can get very close to electronic components and such.
I figured this could be a useful tool for you, and a cool thing to see in your videos.
th-cam.com/video/FTU5y6ZxuR8/w-d-xo.html
can you do it Electronics start up kit video? like parts and equipment. if you do, please include search terms so we can buy the kit you make.
About them LED bulbs and full generations growing up not knowing about incandescent bulbs: when I was young there was a programmer problem: you have a room with three lightbulbs, and three switches in another room. You can't see from the switch room into the lightbulb room. You can do whatever you want with the switches, and then go to the other room and tell which switch corresponds to which of the bulbs. And the solution was to turn two switches on, wait a bit, turn one of them off, and then go to the other room, see which one is on, and feel which one is hot. That problem doesn't work with those new-fangled LED bulbs.
Yeah it does less get warm
Im wondering what the circuitry would be for the universal voltage version.
Probably a small buck regulator.
Once lighting was liberated from incandescent or fluorescent, LEDs have enabled designers to run amok with colors and shapes. Amazing stuff.
And still they can deliver great light quality ("can" is the keyword here, it doesn´t mean they always do) at comparatively low power consumption.
furthermore they went totally amok with having no longevity and servicability at all with the led crap.
led has some great capability but manufacturers chose to make crap stuff with it.
@@casemodder89Yes, that's true, unfortunately. So Clive comes up with circuit mods to improve longevity without sacrificing too much luminance.
@@channelsixtyseven067 yes, thats great for electricans and many already do mods for reliability. (me included - i run an led max. at 66% /better 50% of it's rated power capability. that triples or quadruples the lifetime and on top raises the lumen per watt => efficiency).
but the problem is more with non technical people. the stuff one can buy off the shelf is mostly crap and the average person can't do anything about that.
The shaped ones on the Ali link look fun :) Great for kids rooms .
I was thinking of 3D printing something to take a flexible LED string. You can get low voltage LED string for use on model railway layouts and similar.
Well those are pretty neat. I have a flat LED bulb but it looks like a regular bulb but flat. Hope these come out in the US.
The perfect lamp for a scrollsaw!
Those cutters are very sharp but brittle. If you are cutting something and you twist them, the cutting edge can snap off and fly around the room. They are meant to cut copper and you can nick them cutting steel wire. I use a small flat head like a jewelers screwdriver to pry up the edge and as someone mentioned, a heat gun to show it who pays for the electricity. So you ever make new things from the parts?
could the zero ohm resistor be changed out when moving to 120 volts? perhaps?
Nice teardown and explanation. A simple circuit indeed. And thankfully, it's not a noisy smps.
3D printable 'Big Clive' lamp, OpenSCAD freebee code in the description soon ?...cheers.
I really like these. I've got some flat Phillips bulbs from a few years ago that I I think have LED tape sandwiched in a similar way.
I was about to say that while they look nice, they're difficult to dubify. But then I saw the 28mA total. Isn't that 14 mA per LED? They're not grilling the LEDs to make them fail? Could it be that this is actually a decent design?
Really liking these LED 'strings'. So many applications.
I think you require you name in 3d printed light👍 or perhaps something cute towards your own accord. Thank you Clive for your peek at the advancement, I like to be aware of what is coming down the pipe. 👍❤️✌️
Greatest invention since incandescent lamp. Would those get enhanced with rotation? Neat effect by that. Maybe use cutting wheel rotary tool?
An easy way to get the crimped metal thread base off, without totally destroying it, is to drill each of the divots out with a 1-1.5mm drill bit. Then it just slips/unscrews.
How many 1mm drill bits get broken in the process...
@@lefty5349 you can just look at them wrong and they break. I just consider them disposable at this point…
@5:40, those cutters are also fantastic for cutting equal lengths because the knife edge is flush with the surface being cut and almost no sharp edges remaining
I would really like to see that 10 ohm resistor blow. How much wattage would it take? 🤔
It's good that the halves of the plastic tube were glued together. If they weren't, or even if they were but with any gaps in the glue, there would be minimal creepage distance between mains inside and the outer surface that you can touch.
Clive, if you can remember, will you add to the schematics the details of voltages etc. A nice simple circuit design to build and use. Will the circuit handle or work for various AC to DC output options/loads between its voltage and amperage output?
The linear regulators are designed to operate in a small margin between the LED voltage and rectified mains at relatively low current. They just go inline with the LEDs.
Thank you, Clive.
Could this be used to provide shadow-free illumination of documents when making colour digital photographs of them, with camera lens looking through the centre of the square? I am thinking of Clive's famous Tupperware[TM] photo booth.
Would interaction of flickering and shutter speed, or illumination colour, be a problem?
It may work, but you can also get DC ring lights.
I freaking love the pictures you print out for this. Amazing camera and printer holy crap.
Old Moto G6 play and an Epson ecotank.
@@bigclivedotcom well holy hell man. That looks amazing.
The glass one may be more fragile but has more appealing as the edison style filament lamps in comparison with the shitty plasticky ones.
That soft voice saying "Let the destruction begin" is oddly very satisfying XD
Dear Clive, can you please enlighten us what's the difference between dimmable and non-dimmable LEDs? And why they flicker?
I wonder if you could make a "Three Color Light" where you had the LED's polarity flipped, allowing you to swap current flow. Red one way, Green the other? Warm white one way, Cold white the other?
There are double sided filaments that do cold/warm white.
The red/green type definitely exists, as I seem to have some of them... only two pins, and they show red hooked up one way and green if hooked up the other way. They are very exciting... at first anyway- After the novelty wears off they are merely pleasing. This of course reflects my own experience, and may not reflect that of other folks... as usual- Please seek excitement at your own risk and discretion.
peace.
th-cam.com/video/FTU5y6ZxuR8/w-d-xo.html
@@primateinterfacetechnologi6220 The red/green ones have been around for decades, we used to use them as an on/off indicator in industrial equipment (or power available/equipment running more specifically)
Your edited picture of the pcb is super great!! (I like very much that you added color, and the path the electricity goes. I nearly understood it!)
I would like to see these filaments used to make an LED version of a Nixie Tube Watch.
Clive 2022: "Is this fully discharged? Let me put my finger across it"
Thanks from Texas Clive
Would the led strip cope with 260 Celsius? If so, you could pause a print at the glue line, lay in the filament and then print over it.
I think it would because the nozzle doesn't stay in one spot for very long. The printed filament also cools down to 60ish quite quickly.
"You can skip forward, past the destruction. If you wish."
No, no I can't.
A question for clever people and/or circuit board designers:
The led filament was surely attached to the PCB by hand, right? Soldering through-hole components is slow and annoying anyway, but having to thread and deal with long unwieldy lengths of wire on top of that is doubly so. Can't they just add like a "castelated edge" such that you could just bend the wires over the edge and solder without having to worry about the length or threading anything? Is that more expensive or something? It's not like the wires experience any mechanical loads or anything.
Clive, can you not drill out or burr out the 20 pin points of the crimping to free the cap and it just slide off?
Wow that glass light is beautiful
As LED lights take over do we need 240v 5 amp lighting circuits any more? If the average house has ten ceiling pendants and the led is 10 watts, you only need a circuit to supply 100 watts not the 1000 watts we have now. I am sure they could develop another fitting so that only led's can be plugged in.
7:10 "Let me put my finger across it" my god Clive my heart
Lock ring should allow you to rotate/screw bulb to your preferred orientation, then "lock" it in that position by screwing down against the socket (as long as the button contact at the bottom of the bulb is making an electrical connection).
"Pretty much indestructible" says Clive while he ponders over the ravaged remains of what once was a led light bulb...
"Is this fully discharged?"
_puts finger across contacts_
"It's fully discharged."
Eye protection is critical. I've had similar side cutters (from a reputable Japanese manufacturer) break during heavy use and had the broken-end hit within an inch of my eye.
th-cam.com/video/FTU5y6ZxuR8/w-d-xo.html
Hm now I'm thinking I need to get some clear filament again to be able to print cheapo neon sign equivalents. I bought some of that LED filament after Clive showed it last month.
is that filament a strip of 0402 's? I want to get some of those tiny leds
I know this wouldn't be practical for mass-manufacture, but would it be feasible to 3d-print half a filament lamp holder, lay in the filament, then just keep on printing for a single monolithic seamless lamp?
Some internal holders to route them I think very possible I’ve printed captured nuts and an nano inside a print
Aliexpress is great if you don't mind waiting. I tend to go there before Ebay if i need some obscure Chinesium piece of tech.
Decent little lamp 🪔 lol 😂 weird Zero Ohm Link and all!!! Great video as always BigClive!!!
What would be good design wise is some form of ergonomic mechanical advantage to assist twisting.
This is a fun vid, thank you, i also dot when i number(building elements).. but i also add the numbers 5,10,15 etc when i pass them. :)
I wish I had a 3D printer thus type of light would be great for decorationg at christmas. I dont want a load i=of these running on the mains but a low voltage version would be nice. I could do strings of "faiiy" lights with diffrent shapes. I guess that might be a thing from China for next yule time. Thanks for sharing 2x👍
._.)/ Actually, there's a safe way to open the E27 Cap without cutting it..
You can use Curved Jaw Locking Plier (its called Alligator Plier in my place), and bent the E27 Cap a little bit,
repeat it one more time with different orientation..
Then, you can pull the E27 Screw Cap using the Plier..
Or, you can use E27 Bakelite Fitting as the grip to pull it off..
Almost reminds me of those comedy CFL's that you could get about 10 years ago with the massive loops which always ended up breaking sooner or later!
That is an awesome little light! We will be buying a few of these since they look so very good!
It's always good to see someone else using side cutters in a way they're not intended. Lol
Your mission Mr. Phelps should you decide to accept it, is to produce an LED lamp which lights when you look at it!!! 😂
Neat trick if you could pull it off, however I'm not so certain how many people would be willing to have lasers shining in their eyes looking for a reflection or basically a 50% reflection from the human eye ... Well, that was my thought on how it could be done to distinguish the difference between a human eye and any other reflective surface in the vicinity.
Another great Video Clive, I appreciate it
you think they'd splurg the extra penny for the cap to fix the power factor.
Not so easy with this circuit.
Is there no way to power that torn filament now? Ive had terrible luck with small scale soldering, maybe there is some trick to it?
It could be rescued with extreme care and a suitably adjusted power supply.
Nice! You could actually print half a tube, pause the print, lay the led filament in and then continue printing the second half directly on top.
That would be interesting to do. I wonder if you can insert a pause command directly into G-code.
@@bigclivedotcom While I don't remember how, I recall Thomas Sandlander has done it previously. Just need to be sure not to let it sit too long, or the printer may shut down for safety. (Mine, for instance, times out at 3 minutes on a pause.)
@bigclivedotcom yes you can, in a few ways. First though you open slicing software, and slice the file to generate layers. Then adjust the cutaway layer-view slider till you find the level you want to pause at. Take note of the layer number. From here it differs depending on the printer's firmware. On many slicers, there is an option like "pause at layer height", that inserts a pause for filament changes. Slic3r and Cura slicers have this. When the printer pauses this eay, you have to manually resume from the LCD screen. This way the slicer edits the gCode for you.
Otherwise you can insert custom gCode manually at this layer by editing the gCode file. The command/syntax changes depending on the firmware your printer runs. On most it is "M0", on Prusa it's "M601". However if you want to pause the print for a set time, "G4" is universally used by all firmware.
The final way to do this is to use print Host software like Octoprint or Repetier, that do the pause at a software layer - they literally pause sending gCode at the layer until you manually click resume in the software.
@@bigclivedotcom You will find a nice explanation here th-cam.com/video/Df1nSc6korM/w-d-xo.html (using pause to embed a magnet in the print)
@@bigclivedotcom M0 usually pauses a CNC program.
Little carbide drill bits for electronics!
You can drill out the crimps maybe?
That's super amazing! :O
Do you have a scanner, Clive? I've just recently rediscovered them as great reverse engineering tools.
Anyone have a link to the video with the other light that he showed at the start? A quick scroll didn't show it.
Why would they make three versions, not two or just one universal voltage version?
Pretty bold of them to make the glass bulb so thin but have it be exactly the part people are going to grab and twist thinking it's plastic. Sounds like a recipie for increased bandaid sales
Hi Clive I was wondering if maybe the Box shape was actually a is actually a hot dog shape then put into a heater that could then mold it into its square shape or star shape or whatever shape they want.
I think it was pre-shaped in the mould.
A lot of people confuse silicon with silicone. Here, however, we have silicon embedded in silicone!
Glued or ultra-sonic welded?
I look forward to the day when the power supply capacitor is not fully discharged, resulting in some colourful language