I always think it's important to show the process. Too often people only show their successes. Yes...we want to root for people to succeed, but really...life isn't success followed by more success. There is a process. Thanks for showing the trials and tribulations that you had to go through in order to reach Mother of all Turtles status!
As a maker myself of my own design I was to make my design public and due to the impatience of viewer's not understand we too have lives to live all to be abused for not making instructions clear enough or step by step was the end of my public help. The instructions are still there and I see my specific design (2 circuit without motor controller but a voltage regulator and a specifically picked non common mosfet) used in slightly different way's with my parts I designed. I'm not a TH-camr and after the abuse I decided to just sell the kit's for profit and when I see my part's I now file for copyright. All people had to do was wait as I don't have an archive of stacked video's to upload for view's and or as you put it "root for people to succeed" nore is it showboating for success. It's sometimes purely not enough time, family to raise, job's to work ect NOT hired help to film your ever move under perfect lighting with zero error for a pixel to be out of place and in 8k!
Having built a bottle cutter and filament puller myself I know EXACTLY what you went through. Tip for printing: Be sure to dry your filament BERY well before hand. This stuff will have absorbed a LOT of water and will pop and spit and get cloudy unless dried. It'll also get very stringy. But, if well dried it prints off amazingly smooth and clear. You can also use sharpies to colour the clear filament before you pull it through the extruder so you can get custom colours..you can even you the metallic sharpies for interesting effects. I make functional prints with it and found it can make excellent plant pots. For print settings: Hot and slow. I print at 30-40mms and 265°C. Flow rate of 115% (you'll have to play with this a bit). You'll also find that a direct drive, dual gear or titan extruder will work MUCH better with this stuff. Bed adhesion can be a bit of a problem but I found that the cheap build-tack beds and glue stick works great. Painters tape and glue stick works well too (the glue stick makes it easy to remove the tape from the print). 1.5mm retract works well for me also. Hope this helps and I really do hope you enjoy printing with it. It's a challenge to set up but once you have it going it works great.
This is a great video! I’m glad you didn’t give up! Also, I’m an electrical engineer, and I’m impressed you were able to figure out to flip the diode. Your hunch was correct; they only work in one direction 😊
Well done Jessie. I'm glad you were able to make your filament. Glad i could help .I'm still trying trying to make time for my filament machine. I will let you know once mine will be done.
The actual temperature of the pultruder nozzle should be 220 degrees Celsius, although I believe the Petamentor's thermistor is a bit offset. I watch a lot of Function3D's videos and he also has a website. He uses a different machine but the principles are the same. As for actual printing, here are some settings that should get you started: Layer height: 0.2 Nozzle temp: 260-290 (start high), 280) Bed temp: 75 Flow: 130% Initial layer flow: 130 Printer speed: 30mm/s (to start with, work up from there) Fan: 15% (if there's crystalization, more fan speed) Retraction: 4.5 Retraction speed: 40mm/s These are alternative settings I've noted, more speed requires higher temperatures. Please note, these ones are notes and need a bit more testing: Nozzle temp: 255 Speed: 25mm/s Nozzle temp: 268 Speed: 96 mm/s Nozzle temp: 255 Speed: 50 mm/s Nozzle temp: 260 Speed: 50 mm/s
Just an idea; you can flip the plastic feeder portion so you can feed the plastic to it from top. You may need to add a small metal funnel to the feeding portion to accommodate for the excess melted plastic. You may also need to increase the heat a bit to make it melt the plastic properly (not to make it drip). On the other side where the filament is coming out you may also need to add a very small fan to drop the filament temperature once it comes out from the heated tip. Gravity can maintain the process but you can still use the wheel to collect the filament once you have enough filament length to do so!
Love this. Figure out how to automate making the strips. Fix the forbidden spaghetti pulley. You’ll spend some time but save so much in the long run. The do this type of thing (minus the 3d printing) in India and I’ve seen videos of a simple hand operated machine that automates making strips out of the bottles. They end up making brooms and doll hair and stuff but I love what you’re doing. Keep it up !
As you most likely figured out (still watching lol), diodes definitely need to be wired up in the proper direction. This is how i remember the direction. The white or silver strip at one end is the gate at the end of the race. Electrons are the racers. They start far away from the goal line and must pass through the black to complete the race. Simply put, diodes are like one way doors. I have a diploma for electrical engineering and ive definitely destroyed a lot of diodes while learning haha, the best thing about diodes os how cheap they are 😂 Either way, great job!!
"I grow plants, I'm not an elec-trician..." *proceeds to do badass elec-trician stuff* 😂 See, now this is awesome! I wish to God I had brains like this Sis. I'm a beginner printer that has only 6 prints under my belt, but before my printer even arrived, I'd already been wondering about how to repurpose plastic for filament. This is awesome, but unless there's an affordable version of an already built machine, I'll have to just keep buying filament and recycling what plastics we can. 😅 Very, very cool sis! ❤
Thrilling to watch, also hat's off to your dedication. Most girls don't even understand basic things but you are an exception. Good going.... All the best 👍
I absolutely love how dedicated you were to this project. I'm doing a docuseries on "How to" do various things to empower those in underprivileged circumstances overcome generational trauma and poverty by *showing* them how to do various things to start a sustainable business for their own financial benefit as well as the world's health. I believe that every person shouldn't have to rebuild the wheel but that we should work together as a community to thrive as one. Thank you for sharing your whole story and the success that is possible through diligence and *reaching out to a likeminded community for support.* Together, we can all thrive and heal ourselves and nature.
It has been a long time you published this video but besides my congrats on your success i just want to give you a tip. I saw somewhere in the video that that you have connected the heating cables just by twisting them. If thats the case you have to do it either by solder them or grimp them if i use the correct word. It is safety precaution too apart from avoiding issues with the connections. Very well done!
OK, so that component with the eight on it is a diode which only elects electricity running in one direction so it is directional it’s very important. It goes in the correct orientation for anybody who’s trying to follow along
Hi! I'm stydying mechanical engineering and automatic control systems, so here are some tips that might help! ~Extruder temperature: This can vary from the type of plastic that water bottle is made out of, but a common range for printing with recycled PET (Polyethylene terephthalate), which is often used in recycled water bottle filaments, is typically between 220°C to 240°C. Since recycled materials may have variations in their composition, it's important to start with the lower end of the temperature range and gradually increase it while observing the print quality. Here are some general guidelines: - Start with an extruder temperature around 220°C and adjust as needed. - If you encounter issues like poor layer adhesion or weak prints, try increasing the temperature in increments of 5°C until you achieve better results. - Avoid exceeding temperatures above 240°C to prevent degradation or burning of the filament. ~Print Speed: - Start with a moderate print speed, typically in the range of 30-60 mm/s for most printers. - Slow down the print speed if you encounter issues such as poor layer adhesion, stringing, or warping. - Higher print speeds may lead to reduced print quality, especially with recycled materials that may have inconsistencies in composition. ~Flow Rate: - Begin with the default flow rate settings for your printer, which are typically set to 100%. - Adjust the flow rate as needed based on the extrusion consistency and the appearance of the printed layers. - If the extrusion is too thin or too thick, you can increase or decrease the flow rate incrementally by 5-10% until you achieve optimal results. - Keep in mind that recycled filament may require slight adjustments to flow rate compared to standard filaments due to variations in composition. PS. Double check if the diameter of your fillament aligns with the diameter in the extruder's grippers, maby the gears inside it are not pulling on the string well enough! I hope this helps! If you want to, I can help you make an automatic system that will turn on the motor on your "forbidden spaghetti" wheel so that it pulls and piles the thread of the fillament when the heat on the nozzle reaches the right temperature! Keep us posted and the best of luck!🫶❤️😁
this is so inspiring. but also saving the environment at the same time. one thing about the 3D printer, since the material is a reformed material from flat into round filament by heating process , the quality of the filament would also reduced. so perhaps you might need to re-calibrate the settings of your 3D printer machine ,like input , delay (timer) sequences, nozzle temps, output temps, output delay, and axis speed . that way the 3D print machine would run on the role of new material/filament behaviour than before. greetings from Jakarta❤
A printed bee fountain for your garden would be neat. That way they can stop for a drink and not drown in a bird bath, and you don't have to fill your bird baths with rocks so the bees don't drown!
Congrats..this video was like an emotional rollercoaster ride for me😂..I am into a similar project..I was gathering inputs for doing the same and came across your experience..thankyou for saving me lot of time and all the best best wishes for your journey ahead 🤞👍
Just 5 mins into this video but had an idea. Instead of cutting plastic into uniform strips, can you melt the plastic in bulk? Like in a metal container with a filament nozzle welded on. You could have a small hatch to add your plastic, close said hatch and heat the container either on a burner or with a blow torch (not sure on what temp plastic has to be melted, a burner would be more controlled and putting the nozzle near the bottom where the heats applied may help flow) anyways, pressurize the container with an air compressor to slowly to push the filament out at a steady rate as its rolled up. Just thinking ways this could be done on a bigger more effective scale. 👀 Anyways I love what you’ve done, you’ve shown it is possible to reuse plastic for 3d printing. Edit: using a method like this could allow you to change the composition of the plastic entirely as well. Imagine this. You can’t make 100% reusable plastic work as filament but what about 50%? 75% plastic? Gotta find that sweet spot when it stops working and at what temp speeds ect. Also imagine this any bad prints can be recycled as well, just grind them up and melt. Sounds like it’ll work great in my head but in reality sure there will be ton of flaws if a company hasn’t already perfected something like this already. Lol Edit 3: They do have one; it’s called a filament extruder and from my google search they’re expensive. Can’t find any research of anyone trying it with plastic or mixing ratios of filament/plastic tho.
The propper name to the type of plastic is PETG, and thats where the name of the device you made the filiment gets its name. There should be preprogrammed settings for the plastic if it doesn't then be careful when programming it in as petg plastic can put toxic fumes into the air when in a gooey state similar to how it was when attempting the pull trusion (the term for the process). The proper temperature for printing petg plastic is 220-260°C or 425-500°F.
very inspiring, as I live on the Big Island of Hawaii, we have a beach with the Largest Pastic floating land fill , plastics even floating all the way from Japan. Aloha! Love Precious Plastics ..
❤ I love your courage,your interest in this Hobby. I never got the chance to see a girl this much interested in building this pet making machine. You got my attention and a new subscriber to your channel.I also started to get interested in saving all this plastic bottles and turning them into filament to 3d print just about anything. 😂I have to admit it, i was about to give up.I spend lots of hours,sleepless nights, 😢.Frustration and even headaches trying to achieve my goal,exactly like you in this video. But than i said, i will challenge myself ,and i know i can do it. So i kept trying ,and watching you tube videos,reading and than i joined this wonderful PETAMENTOR community in facebook, than boom, my life changed. And i successfully made my very first pet amentor machine,and created my first recycled pet filament. NOW i do this hobby almost in a daily basis,and i had built 3 or 4 more machines.. With much improved own ideas and technics...So all that being said, ❤I LOVE IT so much ,that i am here to help you and others and share all my experience and give you ideas. I have now 3 years doing this, and in time i will share some of my work. Whenever you wish,if its ok ..🎉Great job, and welcome to this wonderful hobby....💯🙏I hope you reply ,so i can better guide you,with joy..
Nice work 👍 Those controllers are notorious for overheating and mismatched temperature display. When I designed mine I kept in mind that a diy should be based around diy electronics aka arduino, a mosfet and a voltage regulator on a separate circuit with a windscreen motor. Everything come to a total cost of $25-35.
I enjoyed your video. Genius really is 95% perspiration. Check with someone who salvages or repairs appliances and you could get old high temp insulated wire for cheap or even free. I check with people who collect scrap for selling to salvage companies. Cheers.
The way pultrusion works is the nozzle doesn't actually melt the plastic, it just makes the plastic soft and folds it into a tiny tube. Here's a video from CNC Kitchen explaining how pultrusion works and how to print with PET bottles th-cam.com/video/1yIe1Pp_Nrg/w-d-xo.html Pulling it by hand might introduce some inconsistencies on the diameter of the filament, which will cause under and over extrusion when printing. For calibrating flowrate, Orca slicer has built-in calibration tools. Here's a great tutorial from ModBot th-cam.com/video/W901s6zTwiw/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps and good luck!
there are many videos online of this project and with different hardware I too will try to make it sooner or later but I haven't had the time yet but I will look for already sized bottles without heating them I have seen that they are available on the market. the only thing I see from your project is that you don't cool the wire coming out of the nozzle and that you don't measure its thickness, there is also a method for joining the filament strings so you can print without problems or interruptions. Anyway, nice result, great job!!
nice machine, some suggestions are to add and extruder stepper motor to push the filament through the nozzle and you can add a small cooling fan right above the nozzle so the filament can cool more quickly and the diameter is not disturbed by pulling too much or too little because when filament cools, it cannot be stretched.
Wow, I came across your video and I did love the whole process and your persistence in achieving your goal....you got this....."Mother of turtles"...by the way I'm Ecuadorian (I'm currently living in CT) and I'm so sure the turtles from The Galapagos Islands want you to succeed with your project.
Most (if not all) water bottles are made from a form PET (Polyethylene terephthalate), so try printing with PETG settings, just as long as your 3D printer can get hot enough.
heat makes metals expand and holes to get smaller if you still need to get the nozzle out after 5 months Id recommend putting it in the ice box for a few hours then giving it a good cranking with a boxend wrench and a vice.
La verdad que es un sistema facil de contruir pero difícil de operar si se quiere tener óptimos resultados. Se lo difícil que es intentar incansablemente hasta que sale, pero cuando lo hace, es una gran satisfacción y hasta un triunfo. Si bien es un material que es facil de conseguir (como las botellas), para hacer piezas grandes hay que cortar muchas botellas. La peor parte tal vez es que los parámetros de impresión son muy delicados de ajustar si se quiere tener grandes resultados, tanto en estética como en solidez de la pieza impresa sin contar los atascos repentino que puede sufrir el extrusor y así echar a perder minutos y hasta horas de impresión. En resumen, es un muy buen proyecto y se puede concretar de manera correcta si se le da mucha dedicación, tanto para construirlo como también para aprender a imprimir con este filamento. Saludos y sigue así...
Gotta say I didn't expect watching this drinking my coffee but impressive. I'm working on something similar and designing a machine as well. The filament is going to have problems printing because of 1 main reason I can think of. Human error affecting its density. For example pulling x amount but y amount for a few seconds can mean there's a difference there. I am repurposing parts from my ender 3 to try to also incorporate a hopper. I'm pretty sure at a molecular level that plastic is different cut than if you used it in a hopper fed extruder. Making the assembly line I guess if you will. This is awesome but you might be able to contact a University near you that has a degree in like environmental science or engineering and with your credibility here see if they'd help. Knowing what you're breathing is important too. I know I'm sounding like I'm a big critic right now but if anything I don't criticize I only comment if I see something worth commenting on which yours is. And I really do hope it helps. Refine the process and try to get a more exact , mechanical process and I bet it will do wonders. And the university can provide so much help. They are trying to help like you ya know? My machine is actually using another less used thermoplastic to recycle and use in something but sincerely best of luck and I am on verge of a breakthrough myself with the mechanical aspect. I'll try to send it your way if I do. #SeaTurtlesYo
I admire your patience and tenacity. I wonder if you should use a slightly warmer temp on the printer than you did on the extruder. There is a certain amount of time needed for the plastic to cool.
if you wish to feed a new pet strip in a cooling (but still warm) nozzle, use a thin (one or two strends) of copper wire to use like a guide. I twitst it to make more solid. Pass the whire from the exit to the entrance of the nozzle. than i make a little loop in wich i pass few centimeters of the pet strip. Then (beware not to burn your fingers), pull the copper cable (beware to remove all the wire infulator, or it will melt in the nozzle) and extract the pet strip from the nozzle. Then proceed with the "normal" pulley winding ;-)
Great video! Looking into making my own filament too. Could you please share the stl file link to the cutter you are using? I'd like to give that cutter a try. I haven't had much luck using the cutter on the Petamentor. Thanks!
Print a trophy for yourself but maybe it can be a plant pot too
Make the trophy a 3d printed water bottle!
ahahahaha i love that so much
I always think it's important to show the process. Too often people only show their successes. Yes...we want to root for people to succeed, but really...life isn't success followed by more success. There is a process. Thanks for showing the trials and tribulations that you had to go through in order to reach Mother of all Turtles status!
this is the truth right here!!! Thanks for being the cousins of the turtles 😂💚🐢
As a maker myself of my own design I was to make my design public and due to the impatience of viewer's not understand we too have lives to live all to be abused for not making instructions clear enough or step by step was the end of my public help.
The instructions are still there and I see my specific design (2 circuit without motor controller but a voltage regulator and a specifically picked non common mosfet) used in slightly different way's with my parts I designed.
I'm not a TH-camr and after the abuse I decided to just sell the kit's for profit and when I see my part's I now file for copyright.
All people had to do was wait as I don't have an archive of stacked video's to upload for view's and or as you put it "root for people to succeed" nore is it showboating for success.
It's sometimes purely not enough time, family to raise, job's to work ect NOT hired help to film your ever move under perfect lighting with zero error for a pixel to be out of place and in 8k!
@@growithjessiei know! You can take filament for 1 time use plastic bottles and print it to a reusable bottle
Having built a bottle cutter and filament puller myself I know EXACTLY what you went through. Tip for printing: Be sure to dry your filament BERY well before hand. This stuff will have absorbed a LOT of water and will pop and spit and get cloudy unless dried. It'll also get very stringy. But, if well dried it prints off amazingly smooth and clear. You can also use sharpies to colour the clear filament before you pull it through the extruder so you can get custom colours..you can even you the metallic sharpies for interesting effects. I make functional prints with it and found it can make excellent plant pots.
For print settings: Hot and slow. I print at 30-40mms and 265°C. Flow rate of 115% (you'll have to play with this a bit). You'll also find that a direct drive, dual gear or titan extruder will work MUCH better with this stuff. Bed adhesion can be a bit of a problem but I found that the cheap build-tack beds and glue stick works great. Painters tape and glue stick works well too (the glue stick makes it easy to remove the tape from the print). 1.5mm retract works well for me also.
Hope this helps and I really do hope you enjoy printing with it. It's a challenge to set up but once you have it going it works great.
thank you so much for these tips! and i love how you know and feel what I went through as well. I appreciate your comment very much
Good job
Love your never quit attitude ...
I'm rooting for you...
This is a great video! I’m glad you didn’t give up! Also, I’m an electrical engineer, and I’m impressed you were able to figure out to flip the diode. Your hunch was correct; they only work in one direction 😊
Thank you so much!!
That’s some determination. To start with a cold nozzle was a really good idea. 👍🏼 looking forward to see a print from it
She speaks too much
thanks so much
ahahaha sorry you feel that way!
Well done Jessie. I'm glad you were able to make your filament. Glad i could help .I'm still trying trying to make time for my filament machine. I will let you know once mine will be done.
You finally did it! Congratulations!!!!
She made this without knowledge tables or machines or tools. shes a pro!
The actual temperature of the pultruder nozzle should be 220 degrees Celsius, although I believe the Petamentor's thermistor is a bit offset. I watch a lot of Function3D's videos and he also has a website. He uses a different machine but the principles are the same. As for actual printing, here are some settings that should get you started:
Layer height: 0.2
Nozzle temp: 260-290 (start high), 280)
Bed temp: 75
Flow: 130%
Initial layer flow: 130
Printer speed: 30mm/s (to start with, work up from there)
Fan: 15% (if there's crystalization, more fan speed)
Retraction: 4.5
Retraction speed: 40mm/s
These are alternative settings I've noted, more speed requires higher temperatures. Please note, these ones are notes and need a bit more testing:
Nozzle temp: 255
Speed: 25mm/s
Nozzle temp: 268
Speed: 96 mm/s
Nozzle temp: 255
Speed: 50 mm/s
Nozzle temp: 260
Speed: 50 mm/s
Price of extruder?
Just an idea; you can flip the plastic feeder portion so you can feed the plastic to it from top. You may need to add a small metal funnel to the feeding portion to accommodate for the excess melted plastic. You may also need to increase the heat a bit to make it melt the plastic properly (not to make it drip). On the other side where the filament is coming out you may also need to add a very small fan to drop the filament temperature once it comes out from the heated tip. Gravity can maintain the process but you can still use the wheel to collect the filament once you have enough filament length to do so!
To undo the nozzle get a pair a channel locks and heat the heating block up use an adjustable wrench to unscrew it
Respect for soooo much patience, we men can take an example, thank you keep it up
Obviously, you have to print a TURTLE!
I mean, I watched you for the first time as a Turk, sister. I really liked your narration and the detailed way you showed the process.
Girl, you're my hero! Hugs from Brazil
that was the best show of human dogged determination I have ever seen.
Well done on your persistence!!.
That was a wild ride! Great job sticking with it and figuring it out step by step!
I can 3d print pretty well but can’t grow a plant to save my life 😢
Love this. Figure out how to automate making the strips. Fix the forbidden spaghetti pulley. You’ll spend some time but save so much in the long run. The do this type of thing (minus the 3d printing) in India and I’ve seen videos of a simple hand operated machine that automates making strips out of the bottles. They end up making brooms and doll hair and stuff but I love what you’re doing. Keep it up !
I wish this was an easier process! There's no way I'd be able to put that thing together lol
Good for you for not giving up and getting it working!
As you most likely figured out (still watching lol), diodes definitely need to be wired up in the proper direction. This is how i remember the direction. The white or silver strip at one end is the gate at the end of the race. Electrons are the racers. They start far away from the goal line and must pass through the black to complete the race.
Simply put, diodes are like one way doors.
I have a diploma for electrical engineering and ive definitely destroyed a lot of diodes while learning haha, the best thing about diodes os how cheap they are 😂
Either way, great job!!
really love your persistence with this and your learning process, this is what 3d printing is all about .
thank you so much
It was like thriller! 🤣
I envy your patience - really wish I had 10 percent of your patience.
"I grow plants, I'm not an elec-trician..." *proceeds to do badass elec-trician stuff* 😂
See, now this is awesome! I wish to God I had brains like this Sis. I'm a beginner printer that has only 6 prints under my belt, but before my printer even arrived, I'd already been wondering about how to repurpose plastic for filament. This is awesome, but unless there's an affordable version of an already built machine, I'll have to just keep buying filament and recycling what plastics we can. 😅 Very, very cool sis! ❤
Patience is a virtue. Without it there would be more dead turtles. Great job.
This is a great video!
Thrilling to watch, also hat's off to your dedication. Most girls don't even understand basic things but you are an exception.
Good going.... All the best 👍
I absolutely love how dedicated you were to this project. I'm doing a docuseries on "How to" do various things to empower those in underprivileged circumstances overcome generational trauma and poverty by *showing* them how to do various things to start a sustainable business for their own financial benefit as well as the world's health. I believe that every person shouldn't have to rebuild the wheel but that we should work together as a community to thrive as one. Thank you for sharing your whole story and the success that is possible through diligence and *reaching out to a likeminded community for support.* Together, we can all thrive and heal ourselves and nature.
It has been a long time you published this video but besides my congrats on your success i just want to give you a tip. I saw somewhere in the video that that you have connected the heating cables just by twisting them. If thats the case you have to do it either by solder them or grimp them if i use the correct word. It is safety precaution too apart from avoiding issues with the connections.
Very well done!
Amazing ! This is a truly environmentally friendly project.
thank you
Mohit coming in clutch!!
Such inspiration very well done
I have to I’m impressed with your patience and persistence
Well done, I'm thinking of making one myself, you've inspired me 👍
I'm very interested in this idea. Thank you for sharing it with the audience
well done miss Jessie, great determination
congratulations on your tenacity, keep going..
OK, so that component with the eight on it is a diode which only elects electricity running in one direction so it is directional it’s very important. It goes in the correct orientation for anybody who’s trying to follow along
I was going to say the same thing 😂 I always check the comments before I comment so I don’t say the same thing as someone else
absolutely. the direction of the diode 100% matters!
AyyyyOOOOO, Being a woman must be INSANE nice😂😂😂
Great project! Thanks for keeping us all posted!
Hi! I'm stydying mechanical engineering and automatic control systems, so here are some tips that might help!
~Extruder temperature:
This can vary from the type of plastic that water bottle is made out of, but a common range for printing with recycled PET (Polyethylene terephthalate), which is often used in recycled water bottle filaments, is typically between 220°C to 240°C.
Since recycled materials may have variations in their composition, it's important to start with the lower end of the temperature range and gradually increase it while observing the print quality. Here are some general guidelines:
- Start with an extruder temperature around 220°C and adjust as needed.
- If you encounter issues like poor layer adhesion or weak prints, try increasing the temperature in increments of 5°C until you achieve better results.
- Avoid exceeding temperatures above 240°C to prevent degradation or burning of the filament.
~Print Speed:
- Start with a moderate print speed, typically in the range of 30-60 mm/s for most printers.
- Slow down the print speed if you encounter issues such as poor layer adhesion, stringing, or warping.
- Higher print speeds may lead to reduced print quality, especially with recycled materials that may have inconsistencies in composition.
~Flow Rate:
- Begin with the default flow rate settings for your printer, which are typically set to 100%.
- Adjust the flow rate as needed based on the extrusion consistency and the appearance of the printed layers.
- If the extrusion is too thin or too thick, you can increase or decrease the flow rate incrementally by 5-10% until you achieve optimal results.
- Keep in mind that recycled filament may require slight adjustments to flow rate compared to standard filaments due to variations in composition.
PS. Double check if the diameter of your fillament aligns with the diameter in the extruder's grippers, maby the gears inside it are not pulling on the string well enough!
I hope this helps! If you want to, I can help you make an automatic system that will turn on the motor on your "forbidden spaghetti" wheel so that it pulls and piles the thread of the fillament when the heat on the nozzle reaches the right temperature! Keep us posted and the best of luck!🫶❤️😁
this is so inspiring. but also saving the environment at the same time. one thing about the 3D printer, since the material is a reformed material from flat into round filament by heating process , the quality of the filament would also reduced. so perhaps you might need to re-calibrate the settings of your 3D printer machine ,like input , delay (timer) sequences, nozzle temps, output temps, output delay, and axis speed . that way the 3D print machine would run on the role of new material/filament behaviour than before. greetings from Jakarta❤
ممكن سعر آلة تحويل الخيط المسطح إلى خيط مستدير
Inspired by your tenacity and perseverance. Brilliant video
You are absolutely amazing!!!, great voice as well, I can see your passionate about all this, I wish you the very best
Wauw that was some impressive determination!!! As a turtle lover: YOU ROCK!
Try 190 nozzle & 45 hot end! You kept getting bubbles so it might have a lot of moisture in the filament! Either that or dry it out! Loved the vid!
You should be DAMN PROUD OF YOURSELF!! half of society won't even wash a dish in their lifetime...😑
A printed bee fountain for your garden would be neat. That way they can stop for a drink and not drown in a bird bath, and you don't have to fill your bird baths with rocks so the bees don't drown!
i love this idea!!
Congrats..this video was like an emotional rollercoaster ride for me😂..I am into a similar project..I was gathering inputs for doing the same and came across your experience..thankyou for saving me lot of time and all the best best wishes for your journey ahead 🤞👍
I admire your persistence and I admire your persistence and patience, New sub🙌🙌🙌
Just 5 mins into this video but had an idea. Instead of cutting plastic into uniform strips, can you melt the plastic in bulk? Like in a metal container with a filament nozzle welded on. You could have a small hatch to add your plastic, close said hatch and heat the container either on a burner or with a blow torch (not sure on what temp plastic has to be melted, a burner would be more controlled and putting the nozzle near the bottom where the heats applied may help flow) anyways, pressurize the container with an air compressor to slowly to push the filament out at a steady rate as its rolled up. Just thinking ways this could be done on a bigger more effective scale. 👀 Anyways I love what you’ve done, you’ve shown it is possible to reuse plastic for 3d printing.
Edit: using a method like this could allow you to change the composition of the plastic entirely as well. Imagine this. You can’t make 100% reusable plastic work as filament but what about 50%? 75% plastic? Gotta find that sweet spot when it stops working and at what temp speeds ect. Also imagine this any bad prints can be recycled as well, just grind them up and melt. Sounds like it’ll work great in my head but in reality sure there will be ton of flaws if a company hasn’t already perfected something like this already. Lol
Edit 3: They do have one; it’s called a filament extruder and from my google search they’re expensive. Can’t find any research of anyone trying it with plastic or mixing ratios of filament/plastic tho.
Good job Jessie ! Like Edison allegedly said, I found a thousand ways how not to make a light bulb. Just persevere.
The propper name to the type of plastic is PETG, and thats where the name of the device you made the filiment gets its name. There should be preprogrammed settings for the plastic if it doesn't then be careful when programming it in as petg plastic can put toxic fumes into the air when in a gooey state similar to how it was when attempting the pull trusion (the term for the process). The proper temperature for printing petg plastic is 220-260°C or 425-500°F.
PROUD OF YOUR JOB PERFECT
very inspiring, as I live on the Big Island of Hawaii, we have a beach with the Largest Pastic floating land fill , plastics even floating all the way from Japan. Aloha! Love Precious Plastics ..
❤ I love your courage,your interest in this Hobby. I never got the chance to see a girl this much interested in building this pet making machine. You got my attention and a new subscriber to your channel.I also started to get interested in saving all this plastic bottles and turning them into filament to 3d print just about anything. 😂I have to admit it, i was about to give up.I spend lots of hours,sleepless nights, 😢.Frustration and even headaches trying to achieve my goal,exactly like you in this video. But than i said, i will challenge myself ,and i know i can do it. So i kept trying ,and watching you tube videos,reading and than i joined this wonderful PETAMENTOR community in facebook, than boom, my life changed. And i successfully made my very first pet amentor machine,and created my first recycled pet filament. NOW i do this hobby almost in a daily basis,and i had built 3 or 4 more machines.. With much improved own ideas and technics...So all that being said, ❤I LOVE IT so much ,that i am here to help you and others and share all my experience and give you ideas. I have now 3 years doing this, and in time i will share some of my work. Whenever you wish,if its ok ..🎉Great job, and welcome to this wonderful hobby....💯🙏I hope you reply ,so i can better guide you,with joy..
Dont forget that by saving a turtle, a shark will be very thankful!
What an awesome process!!! thank you for your wonderful inspiration!
People forget microplastics
You are a fighter girl!🤣
173.3 degrees F for the folks confused by the 78.5 degrees somehow melting plastic. 😂
hahahahahahahaha i think i was in celsius (as a canadian :P)
To nail down & otomate the proceses aint easy & i'm an engineer & been making stuff for over 20 years
Good luck to you 💯💯💯💯
Nice work 👍
Those controllers are notorious for overheating and mismatched temperature display.
When I designed mine I kept in mind that a diy should be based around diy electronics aka arduino, a mosfet and a voltage regulator on a separate circuit with a windscreen motor.
Everything come to a total cost of $25-35.
This is sooo sweet and boss at the same time 🐢🐢🐢 👑
thanks so much
Great one, Bravo
I enjoyed your video. Genius really is 95% perspiration. Check with someone who salvages or repairs appliances and you could get old high temp insulated wire for cheap or even free. I check with people who collect scrap for selling to salvage companies. Cheers.
I'm going to build this! This is amazing!
Perfect use of plastic wastes👏👏👏👏
The way pultrusion works is the nozzle doesn't actually melt the plastic, it just makes the plastic soft and folds it into a tiny tube.
Here's a video from CNC Kitchen explaining how pultrusion works and how to print with PET bottles th-cam.com/video/1yIe1Pp_Nrg/w-d-xo.html
Pulling it by hand might introduce some inconsistencies on the diameter of the filament, which will cause under and over extrusion when printing.
For calibrating flowrate, Orca slicer has built-in calibration tools.
Here's a great tutorial from ModBot th-cam.com/video/W901s6zTwiw/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps and good luck!
Amazing video never Ever give up ❤
there are many videos online of this project and with different hardware I too will try to make it sooner or later but I haven't had the time yet but I will look for already sized bottles without heating them I have seen that they are available on the market.
the only thing I see from your project is that you don't cool the wire coming out of the nozzle and that you don't measure its thickness, there is also a method for joining the filament strings so you can print without problems or interruptions.
Anyway, nice result, great job!!
i really appreciate the captioning!! ❤
thanks so much
This is such a cool project! Just a note on the prononciation of Guillaume - it's usually pronounced like ghee-yome 😅
nice machine, some suggestions are to add and extruder stepper motor to push the filament through the nozzle and you can add a small cooling fan right above the nozzle so the filament can cool more quickly and the diameter is not disturbed by pulling too much or too little because when filament cools, it cannot be stretched.
Wow, I came across your video and I did love the whole process and your persistence in achieving your goal....you got this....."Mother of turtles"...by the way I'm Ecuadorian (I'm currently living in CT) and I'm so sure the turtles from The Galapagos Islands want you to succeed with your project.
Your determination is amazing!!! Thank you for keeping going 💕
thanks so much
Most (if not all) water bottles are made from a form PET (Polyethylene terephthalate), so try printing with PETG settings, just as long as your 3D printer can get hot enough.
You did it, so happy for you❤🎉
This is super cool I wanna recycle stuff like this
i love your research determination :) keep going you can achieve 100%
You successfully did it! Congrats🎉
congratulations
U r so resilient
Hey Jessie. I love your videos.. try and errors
heat makes metals expand and holes to get smaller if you still need to get the nozzle out after 5 months Id recommend putting it in the ice box for a few hours then giving it a good cranking with a boxend wrench and a vice.
You could make a turtle pot, the “pot” part would be in the middle of the turtles shell, so it looks like a plant is coming out of it :)
La verdad que es un sistema facil de contruir pero difícil de operar si se quiere tener óptimos resultados. Se lo difícil que es intentar incansablemente hasta que sale, pero cuando lo hace, es una gran satisfacción y hasta un triunfo.
Si bien es un material que es facil de conseguir (como las botellas), para hacer piezas grandes hay que cortar muchas botellas. La peor parte tal vez es que los parámetros de impresión son muy delicados de ajustar si se quiere tener grandes resultados, tanto en estética como en solidez de la pieza impresa sin contar los atascos repentino que puede sufrir el extrusor y así echar a perder minutos y hasta horas de impresión.
En resumen, es un muy buen proyecto y se puede concretar de manera correcta si se le da mucha dedicación, tanto para construirlo como también para aprender a imprimir con este filamento.
Saludos y sigue así...
That's awesome love what you're doing!
CALIPERS! DIGITAL CALIPERS!
yoooo you're gonna be the next Simone Gertz, collab!!!
Print an Elephilamant
🐘🐘
hahahahahahhaa
the main trick is this temperature will not melt the plastic ,it just soft the plastic. and appreciate your patient.
exactly.
A good resource for 3d printing and material (3d filament, water bottles, etc.) is CNC Kitchen.
Ecodecat3d is a maker who uses water bottles.
yes! exodecat is Alex and he is my boy!!
Gotta say I didn't expect watching this drinking my coffee but impressive. I'm working on something similar and designing a machine as well. The filament is going to have problems printing because of 1 main reason I can think of. Human error affecting its density. For example pulling x amount but y amount for a few seconds can mean there's a difference there.
I am repurposing parts from my ender 3 to try to also incorporate a hopper. I'm pretty sure at a molecular level that plastic is different cut than if you used it in a hopper fed extruder. Making the assembly line I guess if you will. This is awesome but you might be able to contact a University near you that has a degree in like environmental science or engineering and with your credibility here see if they'd help. Knowing what you're breathing is important too. I know I'm sounding like I'm a big critic right now but if anything I don't criticize I only comment if I see something worth commenting on which yours is. And I really do hope it helps. Refine the process and try to get a more exact , mechanical process and I bet it will do wonders. And the university can provide so much help. They are trying to help like you ya know? My machine is actually using another less used thermoplastic to recycle and use in something but sincerely best of luck and I am on verge of a breakthrough myself with the mechanical aspect. I'll try to send it your way if I do. #SeaTurtlesYo
I admire your patience and tenacity. I wonder if you should use a slightly warmer temp on the printer than you did on the extruder. There is a certain amount of time needed for the plastic to cool.
if you wish to feed a new pet strip in a cooling (but still warm) nozzle, use a thin (one or two strends) of copper wire to use like a guide.
I twitst it to make more solid. Pass the whire from the exit to the entrance of the nozzle. than i make a little loop in wich i pass few centimeters of the pet strip.
Then (beware not to burn your fingers), pull the copper cable (beware to remove all the wire infulator, or it will melt in the nozzle) and extract the pet strip from the nozzle. Then proceed with the "normal" pulley winding ;-)
Can you please specify the exact melting temperature?
Great video! Looking into making my own filament too. Could you please share the stl file link to the cutter you are using? I'd like to give that cutter a try. I haven't had much luck using the cutter on the Petamentor. Thanks!
your dog is adorable, it looks just like mine. 🙂 good job on this! going to search now to see if you were able to print!