Princess Auto is selling a thirty dollar grinder sharpener, normally fifty five dollars... sale till dec 23... so I’ve thought about it...I think that’s worthwhile.
It depends. Whatever machine I get will be my first. Probably a splitter if I can find one that won't break the bank. If I can't find a good one in my price range then i'll save up for a burnishing machine first.
I have a minty Landis model 30, and as well as I've tuned it and sharpened it, it will generally only work with 6oz or higher, and stripping that into anything thinner than 3/4 oz will "pullup" or mangle the leather significantly (i'm using horween dublin). If anyone can get a weaver or BG to take 4/5 to 2/3 consisintely, i'd love to see it, because that would be exceedingly useful for a wallet maker. I just don't think it's enough material for the machine to grab and push into the blade without making a mess of it. I got mine for a steal, and i used it to process a bunch of old 20oz chunks into 3/4 oz wallets and gave them to friends. Also it will absolutely not work with any type of soft leather (essex, vachettes, chrometans, etc). That's like feeding a sponge into your ink printer, bad things are gonna happen.
The beauty of having high end machinery, especially a Juki walking foot is that you can control many settings. Having a walking foot means you don't have to have as much foot pressure to get even a thick piece of work through the machine. Also, whilst a narrow foot is good for turning work and getting into corners you have less cross sectional area at the work piece contact point and thus backing off the foot pressure is even more critical to avoid the line mark impressions you are getting. So where possible use a wider foot for flat sewing, teflon of you can get one and less pressure on the foot. Lastly, dry veg tan will take on moisture in a humid environment. You won't even notice it probably but as soon as there is moisture in the leather, as with casing, it will accept tooling marks. Even your finger nail will put a crease into the top surface. So maybe check where you store your work pieces prior to sewing them up and the humidity levels of your shop.
i just set mine up , but got one issue , my stone rolls backwards and i cant figure out why . skives great but it doesnt roll the right way . any ideas ??ty deb
AWESOME YOU KNOW TERRICK! wishing I could afford he’s beautiful tools 🛠! one day I will 👍🏼 thanks for all your videos I’m new to leather making and your videos definitely help a lot! simple and to the point
Hey @Stock&BarrellCo ! Question for you: you say you'd buy a heavier-weight leather and split it down for wallets if you had a splitter. What's wrong with the kind of splitter you pull through? We just bought two C.S. Osbourne #84, but haven't really launched them yet. I'm wondering if we should bother? (for more context, I am the mechanic/machine person at Parsons school of Fashion, and we are building out our Accessories program, so all the users of these machines are amateurs)
Why is it common practice to buy one weight of leather only to skive it down? It doesn’t seem coat affective. Why not buy specific weights for each part of the project? I understand why it’s important to skive an edge but not why one would skive the whole interior piece. I’m new to all of this 😬
Hi! I had that same question when I started. My answer(s): Taking all pieces from the same hide means Color Control, when using Chrome Tan, etc. For turned (hemmed) edges, you have to skive down all of the area that is turned to able to turn it and reduce bulk since you're effectively doubling the leather there. I Skive by hand, I've learned to sharpen my Head Knife and Japanese Steel to better than razor sharp, however, I'd LOVE to have a Bell Skiver, since I use 1oz Sheepskin in my Bookbinding, can't be skived well by hand. Hope that helps!
But you can split and skive on a bell skiver if you learn to master the machine but you cant do so on the class 14. I would say, yes! you need a bell skiver. I split on my bell skiver daily, its a magical tool
Sorry to bother. Quick question. The Cobra appears to be such a large splitter. In general, how would it have benefited you? Simply put... aside from splitting leather... how would you use the dang thing? 😁
Thanks for the videos. I was told a bell Skiver doesn’t work on veg tan. Go figure. I want a cylinder arm sewing machine. I have a post bed because I want to make shoes (eventually). But I am selling as many wallets and bags as I can to earn enough to buy cylinder arm. I have a crank splitter that is great, an a five in one that is also great.
@@motozulli It's an old Landis. It works great for splitting anything down to about 3 oz., but I haven't figured out how to tune it to split down to 1 or 2 oz. That might be a fool's errand anyway.
I've been thinking about a Bell Skiver for some time. I work with book-binders leather, preskived to 0.5-0.8mm thick. I need to skive the edge down to extremely thin. Is the Bell Skiver capable of skiving to this kind of level?
I have been able to, yes, and I am far from an expert. My success has depended on the leather though. A textured leather is not going to work (a student of mine tried to skive down snakeskin really thin and it just made a lot of holes). You'll also want to practice a LOT on cheaper skin so you get great at both skiving and sharpening the knife. We have the Consew DSC-4 and it's all right. With soft leathers especially we have some issues with the trimmed bits sticking to the roller stone and coming back up around and jamming up everything. I'm told a vacuum attachment would help (no idea where to get one) as would a finer-grained stone. Anyway, to your original question- I've successfully skived down skins so thin that I could see daylight through it. The holes from the pores made it look like...like I don't know, a very thin piece of leather full of tiny holes, haha. So your 0.5mm should be possible.
Wait... chartermade has a TH-cam channel???? Consider me subbed! As for the bell skiver vs splitter, I could find a tonne more uses for a splitter than a skiver. Getting the leather i want in the right weight is one of the biggest challenges down here. And for skiving, I've got a scharfix knockoff that goes alright.
Oh yeah well good video when I put on ma leather that I worked on, and rock to sum Metallica, Delta Parole, Foo Fighters or the Smashing Pumpkins I feel like I can do anything in the whole wide world.
It will only work up to 2" (The DCS-S4, anyway), and the wider you go the more difficult it is to get an even skive. You could probably get good at it, but ultimately it's just not designed to do the same job as the splitter
First of all that skiving machine was not intended to skive vegetable tanned leather, i've found that recently after i buy one :)) for splitting veg tan leather a splitter is best to use, but it will not skive. That machine was created for chrome tanned leather, veg tan will distroy the knive faster. Plus, a skiving machine can split the entire leather to get it thicker, just remove the distance knob and run the leather mutiple times and there you go, you'll have a splitter machine :)
@@motozulli as i allready mention that "just remove the distance knob and run the leather mutiple times and there you go, you'll have a splitter machine"
Have you become a 100% content and web developer now? Seems like you're more interested in videography than leather working these days. You don't even say a word about the bell skiver until nearly halfway through the video.
haha sorry about that. I don't actually talk that fast, I sometimes speed the video up by 8% just to move through the looong talking parts a little quicker
What's the next machine you'd like to buy for your workshop??
Mine would be my first machine, a sewing machine. Love yalls videos by the way.
Buy??? Ha! How about going retro and refitting an old Singer treadle to DC servo and getting on it old school... Can't afford new!
Stock & Barrel Co
I am getting a couple 30" long arm Zigzag machines for canvas and tarp work
Princess Auto is selling a thirty dollar grinder sharpener, normally fifty five dollars... sale till dec 23... so I’ve thought about it...I think that’s worthwhile.
It depends. Whatever machine I get will be my first. Probably a splitter if I can find one that won't break the bank. If I can't find a good one in my price range then i'll save up for a burnishing machine first.
Having a splitter in my shop paid for itself really quickly as I was able to turn my heavier leather scraps into wallets and other smalls.
OMG! Your channel and Chartermade are my favourite!!!
Mine too lol these guys they are AWESOME 😎
I have a minty Landis model 30, and as well as I've tuned it and sharpened it, it will generally only work with 6oz or higher, and stripping that into anything thinner than 3/4 oz will "pullup" or mangle the leather significantly (i'm using horween dublin). If anyone can get a weaver or BG to take 4/5 to 2/3 consisintely, i'd love to see it, because that would be exceedingly useful for a wallet maker. I just don't think it's enough material for the machine to grab and push into the blade without making a mess of it. I got mine for a steal, and i used it to process a bunch of old 20oz chunks into 3/4 oz wallets and gave them to friends. Also it will absolutely not work with any type of soft leather (essex, vachettes, chrometans, etc). That's like feeding a sponge into your ink printer, bad things are gonna happen.
The beauty of having high end machinery, especially a Juki walking foot is that you can control many settings. Having a walking foot means you don't have to have as much foot pressure to get even a thick piece of work through the machine. Also, whilst a narrow foot is good for turning work and getting into corners you have less cross sectional area at the work piece contact point and thus backing off the foot pressure is even more critical to avoid the line mark impressions you are getting. So where possible use a wider foot for flat sewing, teflon of you can get one and less pressure on the foot. Lastly, dry veg tan will take on moisture in a humid environment. You won't even notice it probably but as soon as there is moisture in the leather, as with casing, it will accept tooling marks. Even your finger nail will put a crease into the top surface. So maybe check where you store your work pieces prior to sewing them up and the humidity levels of your shop.
Hey Parker if you didn’t have the bell skiver would you just skive by hand or what do you think you would use?
Hi. I am wondering which needle do you use with your walking foot LR ? TRI ?? DIA??
Thank you so much for posting this very informative video!
I just love your Channel!
Thank you, again!👍😊
Terek's knives are amazing.
i just set mine up , but got one issue , my stone rolls backwards and i cant figure out why . skives great but it doesnt roll the right way . any ideas ??ty deb
good video and great suggestions! Thanks for sharing!
Curt Ehrhart thanks Curt!
What do you use to paint edges? Just a regular marker or something?? (I'm starting out on leathercrafting)....
not only for edge skiving but also can use for make leather thiner.. .. used skiver mechine price around 200 or 250 usd ..
How has your experience with non waxy veg tan leathers on the skiver machines. Some have said these machines do not really work well with veg tan
Quick question. What’s the reason for painting the edges? My apologies (if it’s repetitive) for the question. Thanks and take care bud.
AWESOME YOU KNOW TERRICK! wishing I could afford he’s beautiful tools 🛠! one day I will 👍🏼 thanks for all your videos I’m new to leather making and your videos definitely help a lot! simple and to the point
Is the table cut out for the skiver the same as the hole for an industrial sewing machine?
No, it's a totally different shape
Hey @Stock&BarrellCo ! Question for you: you say you'd buy a heavier-weight leather and split it down for wallets if you had a splitter. What's wrong with the kind of splitter you pull through? We just bought two C.S. Osbourne #84, but haven't really launched them yet. I'm wondering if we should bother? (for more context, I am the mechanic/machine person at Parsons school of Fashion, and we are building out our Accessories program, so all the users of these machines are amateurs)
Id like to see how the pumpkins turned out, They sounded cool
Why is it common practice to buy one weight of leather only to skive it down? It doesn’t seem coat affective. Why not buy specific weights for each part of the project? I understand why it’s important to skive an edge but not why one would skive the whole interior piece. I’m new to all of this 😬
I have the same,question.
Hi! I had that same question when I started. My answer(s): Taking all pieces from the same hide means Color Control, when using Chrome Tan, etc. For turned (hemmed) edges, you have to skive down all of the area that is turned to able to turn it and reduce bulk since you're effectively doubling the leather there. I Skive by hand, I've learned to sharpen my Head Knife and Japanese Steel to better than razor sharp, however, I'd LOVE to have a Bell Skiver, since I use 1oz Sheepskin in my Bookbinding, can't be skived well by hand. Hope that helps!
Hi there! What tool did you use to make the edge line on your work? 😊
Yes a bell skiver is totally 💯 percent awesome 😎
it's a solid piece of equipment
How do you get by without a splitter?
If you get one in good condition for cheap - grab it.
But you can split and skive on a bell skiver if you learn to master the machine but you cant do so on the class 14. I would say, yes! you need a bell skiver. I split on my bell skiver daily, its a magical tool
Do you have a video of this? I'd love to see that. I'm debating the cost. But, if I could do both🤔?
Barbara Vance I will messsge you
Barbara Vance actually I have no clue how to message on here dm me on Instagram @halfmoonleather
Barbara Vance here is a video I shot today imgur.com/a/IQnU30D
@@staymad5685 Ok, I'll look you up.
Can I bevel my edges using the bell skiver?
yes, you can. You can angle both the foot and the roller stone (We have the Consew DCS-S4, so that's what I'm answering about)
Sorry to bother. Quick question. The Cobra appears to be such a large splitter. In general, how would it have benefited you? Simply put... aside from splitting leather... how would you use the dang thing? 😁
looks just like mine
Thanks for the videos. I was told a bell Skiver doesn’t work on veg tan. Go figure. I want a cylinder arm sewing machine. I have a post bed because I want to make shoes (eventually). But I am selling as many wallets and bags as I can to earn enough to buy cylinder arm. I have a crank splitter that is great, an a five in one that is also great.
which model crank splitter do you use?
@@motozulli It's an old Landis. It works great for splitting anything down to about 3 oz., but I haven't figured out how to tune it to split down to 1 or 2 oz. That might be a fool's errand anyway.
Cobra splitter is great for 3 oz and up. 2 oz... not great.
Is this a family vlog episode or nah?
I've been thinking about a Bell Skiver for some time. I work with book-binders leather, preskived to 0.5-0.8mm thick. I need to skive the edge down to extremely thin. Is the Bell Skiver capable of skiving to this kind of level?
I have been able to, yes, and I am far from an expert. My success has depended on the leather though. A textured leather is not going to work (a student of mine tried to skive down snakeskin really thin and it just made a lot of holes). You'll also want to practice a LOT on cheaper skin so you get great at both skiving and sharpening the knife.
We have the Consew DSC-4 and it's all right. With soft leathers especially we have some issues with the trimmed bits sticking to the roller stone and coming back up around and jamming up everything. I'm told a vacuum attachment would help (no idea where to get one) as would a finer-grained stone.
Anyway, to your original question- I've successfully skived down skins so thin that I could see daylight through it. The holes from the pores made it look like...like I don't know, a very thin piece of leather full of tiny holes, haha. So your 0.5mm should be possible.
Wait... chartermade has a TH-cam channel???? Consider me subbed!
As for the bell skiver vs splitter, I could find a tonne more uses for a splitter than a skiver. Getting the leather i want in the right weight is one of the biggest challenges down here.
And for skiving, I've got a scharfix knockoff that goes alright.
Please do something with hair-on hides!
Can you make money making leather good?
Sorry, meant to say goods😀
Muito linda a tua filha
Oh yeah well good video when I put on ma leather that I worked on, and rock to sum Metallica, Delta Parole, Foo Fighters or the Smashing Pumpkins I feel like I can do anything in the whole wide world.
Why would you not just use the skiver as a splitter 🤔🤔🤔 just take off the guide and run the whole panel through
It will only work up to 2" (The DCS-S4, anyway), and the wider you go the more difficult it is to get an even skive. You could probably get good at it, but ultimately it's just not designed to do the same job as the splitter
I bought one for 300 bucks
Feraud Quilens KILLER deal!
Craigslist
Super. I missed out on one last year. Haven't seen any at that price.
Good deal!
First of all that skiving machine was not intended to skive vegetable tanned leather, i've found that recently after i buy one :)) for splitting veg tan leather a splitter is best to use, but it will not skive. That machine was created for chrome tanned leather, veg tan will distroy the knive faster. Plus, a skiving machine can split the entire leather to get it thicker, just remove the distance knob and run the leather mutiple times and there you go, you'll have a splitter machine :)
But if it can only skive up to 2", what if you have a piece that is more than 4" wide?
@@motozulli as i allready mention that "just remove the distance knob and run the leather mutiple times and there you go, you'll have a splitter machine"
@@AdrianPaun I'm sorry, I just wanted to clarify. So you do the whole thing in 2" strips? What size is the foot you use?
Have you become a 100% content and web developer now? Seems like you're more interested in videography than leather working these days. You don't even say a word about the bell skiver until nearly halfway through the video.
❤️🇨🇦
too long to get to the point...got fed up, just saying.
You realize it's a VLOG right...says so in the title...being chatty is the point...
he handsome
50% of this video is fluff, filler.
Oh my God. You talk too fast. I do not understand it all. I had to put the video slowly playing. I'm going to learn English ))
haha sorry about that. I don't actually talk that fast, I sometimes speed the video up by 8% just to move through the looong talking parts a little quicker
Sorry, thumbs down. Came to learn about :bell skivers: and finally at 6 minutes in, you mention it. Stay in track! Lost a viewer. Peace out.
Steve Ann haha see ya!