Standing Seam Metal Roof with Split Sheet Vent Pipe Flashing Installation
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- How to install zinc plumbing vent-pipe flashings in a metal roof that will last the life of the roof and do it in less than 10 minutes. Plumbing Pipes and B-Vent Pipes in Standing Seam Metal Roofs can both be Flashed using the Split Sheet Flashing Method.
http:www.ExteriorsbyGaryWhillock.com
Zinc Flashings were custom built by the team.
Similar Video; • Standing Seam Metal Ro...
One of the best, most professional installation videos I've ever seen. So well done. I'm a firm believer in "excellence", being a Christian, doing all things, not just for the benefit of people, but to the glory of God.
Thanks for watching the video, and thanks for reaching out with your comment. GW
Thanks for sharing this Mr. Whitlock. This video was a bit more thorough than the other split panel installation. I'm preparing to install a metal roof on my house in six weeks. Not depending on sealant at protrusions seems to be the only good long-term installation solution. Because of your commitment to excellence & caring enough to help someone else through a TH-cam video I will be sure to refer others to your business.
I install that galvanized flashing on the deck water tight with underlayment.
Cut lower panel to allow for expansion around that jack. Install a little longer flashing that covers 1st and installed on lower panel like you, upper panel I hook and secure to bottom of the exposed flashing not just cover galvalume metal.
This technique is Fort knox, of course.
And requires caulk around bottom cut in top panel to 2nd jack to eliminate water traveling between metals, the sandwiched sealants not exposed to uv does its job and will never leak to the next layer of metal the jack then onto the lower panel, never leak lol. I turn up sides into the hems to secure flashing with the seams.
Stay thirsty, my friend, the steeper the better. ;)
Really great detail, better than those stupid boots that people are drilling into their standing seams.
Great stuff. Would love to see your skylight installation method. Is this a video you’d be willing to share?
That's a good Idea! Thanks, I'll do one soon! GW
Great video one of the best I've seen for Split Sheet flashing. How do you handle vents in the roof for bathrooms vent? Been looking around for info and everything I've seen looks like it a leak waiting to happen. Most vents are designed for composite roof but looking for how to handle a bathroom vent for a standing metal seam roof.
Randy, thanks for your comment and kind words. Within a couple of months, I will make a video that specifically deals with K&B vents. Thank you! GW
@@Austinroofingcontractors Thanks for the info. I'm afraid I wont be able to wait that long. I need to get all my ducks in a row in the next month if I want to get the roof on once the rain stops here in the PNW. Also need to find a roofer that is willing to do what your doing. Everyone I've talked to want to use Dektite seal. I'm sure this is a great product and is more of less foolproof to install but installing something with only a 20yr warranty that tears up the metal sheeting and the plywood underneath with all the screw to secure it does not make much sense. To me its like buying a Ferrari and then going out and putting a fiberglass hood scoop on it and bolting it down with a bunch of sheet metal screws.
Do you have to fur out the roof surface ? What happens when you step on the panel in between fur strips? Seems like you will have dents and creases a result. Also added expense time and materials and potential for rotting fur strips from condensating water vaper.??????
What fur strips? Please clarify. Sorry, if it was unclear!
@@Austinroofingcontractors fur strips are a term we use for using wood strips to even out of plumb walls. Your presentation showed them used for creating an air gap for condensation. I am in California and we have low humidity no snow. I was not planning on using them. However the other materials seemed better as they would not create a non-supported span of the panel where a person walking on the roof would cause a denting in. This happened to me when I roofed my garage and it only had skip sheeting instead of plywood sheering. These gaps were much smaller than your example and still you can see the board edges showing through the panels.
How do you install the ridge closure when you have already installed the ridge? Great video thank you.
Joe, thanks for your comment, the closures must go in ahead of the ridge, if the ridge is already installed, you will need to have it removed and installed to the closures! Best of Luck! GW
Awesome job!
I really like this technique, but isn't there a point of entry for water to get in at the top of the standing seam where the two panels meet? or does the top panel overlap the bottom one where the outer part of the standing seam of the bottom panel was cut off?
Your thinking is right the top overlaps, it's the very basics of roofing - shingle style. A method we prefer most. Thanks for your question! GW
@@Austinroofingcontractors I am still a bit confused. So, the bottom panel gets its ribs cut in half in order to allow three panel lap (top and bottom lapping panels and one adjacent one on each side). I understand that there is a flat area where top panel overlaps the bottom one, but isn't there a butt joint at the rib between the top and bottom panels? Otherwise you would end up with full three panel ribs at that junctions. I am sure I am missing something here.
@@pnwbuilder It seems you have a real interest, let's talk, send an email; gw@roofsbygarywhillock.com
@@pnwbuilder yeah the butt joints in the standing seam will depend on caulk for water tightness. Also the seam between the roof vent and the pvc pipe will leak at some point. Still considerably better than a rubber boot. I'll reference a link below to show how we are addressing this here in Ohio.
@@Austinroofingcontractors I'm a huge fan of what you are doing with the spaced sheeting. We follow that same detail. The soil stack detail we do is based on European double locked techniques. We make that roof vent flashing ourselves and modify it to cover the entire pipe. We make the trunk of the vent detail out of matching 29ga flat stock and hand seam it to the panel. No end lap, no caulk, or fasteners. We finish the detail with a witches hat. I'd be happy to send you more details. This quick demonstration on how we achieve it this detail: th-cam.com/video/w7lAFq7j3qg/w-d-xo.html Here's what it looks like on the panel you were using: facebook.com/iqcustomhomes/photos/pcb.2200399866740382/2200381303408905/?type=3&theater
Nice job, I learned a lot here.
Thanks for your comment
Got here looking for vent-penetration details and now I'm off on another tangent. What I'd gathered from reading & talking to industry pros is that even a standing-seam roof isn't to be relied on as a sole waterproofing line of defense, thus the old-school felt or more modern self-adhesive rolled-underlayment product range, used directly over sheathing is the norm - or so I thought. Clearly that's not universally accepted, from what I see here. Is that a regional thing?
What an interesting question, and I love that this question has come to surface!!! To answer your question about regional, I don't know, but there are many, like us, who install metal roofing to be a "lasting" water-tight roof, then there are those who don't. It's interesting, regarding region, I've connected with a few from Europe through my TH-cam Videos and a few in the Eastern United States, who also, do special flashings and make their roofs lasting water-tight roof. I have also spoken to metal roof promoters, TH-camrs for companies that sell metal roofing materials, they say promoting water-tight roofs like we do would reduce their market, there just aren't enough capable crews, they must keep it simple to sell metal roofing. That doesn't sound good - sad I thing! Thanks for a great question!
@@Yargk Occurred to me that it may also have to do with condensation concerns. Even here in Honolulu, esp in "winter," there's a lot of dew that forms on cold surfaces in the morning hours. I'm imagining the potential long-term effect of that if it were precipitating even a few cupfuls of moisture under my roof onto the sheathing etc., day in and day out, in/on to anything that's less than well-ventilated. If you live where the temp swings are high and there tends to be a lot of humidity, I'd be concerned.
I am sealing my sheathing as completely as possible before the metal goes on, mostly because it's taking me forever to re-frame the whole roof, section by section, and I don't want to try to piecemeal the new metal roof around ongoing framing...even the six-month-exposure-rated underlayment is a bit too short-term for my needs.
Never, ever even think about using organic felt unless you want the roof to rust out from underneath. We have replaced several old standing seam jobs there this occurred. Once the chemicals off gas, the felt is like a sponge and soaks up ambient humidity from atmosphere. This is why we use synthetic underlayment.
exceptional.....
This need silicone in all hole
Sorry, no holes left to pucky! That's why we do it like this. Thanks for your comment.