Thanks Keav, this was great. I assembled this today on my Spotless DIC-20 cart mounted system. It looks great and I am sure it is going to help me save on the filter media. I use SS quick connects on all my garden hoses, so there is no worry about fittings with swivels. Makes it a lot easier to use the system.
I ended up buying the waterdrop version based on your reviews and don’t regret it! I agree the included bypass itself was worth $100’s and the time saved priceless. Plus it’s 20% off at Amazon right now. Did a wall install with the giraffe g20 and love the compact setup! 0ppm on Seattle city water.
Awesome video! Really appreciate all the time and money you put into this. I just got my CR Spotless and wanted to build a bypass that was solid and looked good and this vid has everything I needed. Cheers!
I just got the DIC-20 on the cart. it is next to water softener further in the garage. water supply is from softener closer to garage door. I'm going to just split at the water supply with hose outside garage to the pressure washer (on wheels). hose from CR-20 will meet at pressure washer and Y into one. All Ys with valves. I had leaks around the CR-20 connections. I'll minimize them.
Thank you, keav! This was awesome, as always. Learn so much from you. Thanks for buying all those parts,so I don't have to, lol. Have a wonderful week.
Great info. I made one of my own when I first bought mine but it leaked way too much. Like you, I got frustrated. Glad to find a simple list of parts to order. :)
I tried a tds using a tee fitting with 3/4 to 1/4 adapter and a 1/4 push connect fitting, but the meter just wouldn’t read right I think it was too far away from the flow of water. Most of the inline TDS are calibrated for flowing water.
Great Video! I am not criticizing just curious about the "female to female swivel hose" which is Iron pipe thread or straight thread connecting to an NPT or tapered thread fitting. I know the threads are basically the same but not typically connected together. I am assuming this works and I want to make one, just don't want to have a leaking problem. Thanks again for the video.
The straight threaded females seem to seal just fine with not male with Teflon. The opposite not so much. Use many of these hoses in setups and if tightened with a little Teflon never had a leak.
I think I’m going to to with the larger CR spotless once I can afford it.. I need a deionizer and the CR seems like a fair deal even though it’s pricy. I like they give you the option of a mounted or movable solution… but the struggle is real my man… I can’t stand how many different fittings there are for just about everything… that’s where these companies make their money… it’s their bread and butter.. I remember working for Lowe’s. I installed appliances for 5 years… which killed my body.. but they made more on the hoses and cords than they did on the actual appliances…I am sure they are not the only mega corporation that does the same thing. Thanks for the comparison my man. Always appreciate it.
I have had no issues with my CR spotless. There are cheaper setups, but this one we know just works and can do 2.5 GPM. Yeah you can do the dolly version or the wall mount. They also have one that’s more expensive, but supposed to last longer. Has a weird case around it.
Hello Keav Nice setup I bought all the fittings except for the 2 SS elbows, do you happen to see the same ones available you used on amz if not can you help point me to right direction of one you see I could use from lowes or homedepot?
I mentioned in the video I like to have control so I want valves on both sides rather than just on one side. Plus I think it just looks better being the same on each side, but you could save $12 by not having the valve on the output side and just using a tee fitting.
I’m building line with all the parts you found. Thanks. Do you know of any stainless steel garden hose splitters? I’d like to come out of my CR Spotless with a host to the pressure washer and another one for filling buckets. I’m having no luck finding one.
You and me both finding a quality Y split for garden hoses is something I am still searching for. This is the best Y split I have found amzn.to/42W3Mzt Nickel plated housing and levers. You could also use an L pattern valve which would be more bulky though.
Material doesn’t matter much how the manufacturer cuts the threads is the biggest problem if something leaks or doesn’t fit right. I have had some crazy bad thread cuts in both stainless and brass. Sometimes they say NPT which tapered, but then the threads are straight cut. 🤷♂️
Wouldn't the T valve have water going through the filter(s) when you have it in the bypass position you showed? Since the straight through would also be open on the T end as well?
This type of bypass isn’t a straight through T type with 3 directions. It is an L type that the water comes in from the bottom and can only go right or left. Right it runs into the input side and left goes to the output side and the one way flow stop keeps the water from back feeding into the filters.
Do you recommend the Max Water? it is one of the cheapest, and i would use an inhose filter first. This is for my house only and we are using well water on the spigots.
It was my first DI system and worked really well it just does not last as long due to its small size. Well water tends to be very hard and high in tds which would overwhelm the max Water quickly. I think before you go any further a water sample needs to be done to check the co2 levels in the well water and how much tds.
Could you substitute 20" cannisters and have the first stage be a sediment filter and the second stage be the DI cartridge and have better results? I get that it increases cost and takes up more space as tradeoffs. But I heard somewhere that if you pre-filter the sediments out, the DI material lasts longer. Otherwise, set up a three stage setup with one sediment filter and 2 DI stages? Thoughts?
If your water has a lot of sediment it might help, but I would use a carbon filter instead if you were to do that just depends if you are on chemically clean city water or well water. It would be the same capacity of resin. If you need a pre-filter that bad then that system is not going to be enough to handle a good flow and clean or it will deplete very fast if it does clean. If water is bad then two 20 inch resin filters might be the way or a bigger tank style. Pre-filter setup before that would help as well. So many options.
I have never used a water softener system, but I would think the bypasses would work the exact same. It’s just and in and an out just adapting the fittings correctly is the biggest thing. I like the no riser option just from a value standpoint and I prefer stainless just aesthetically. The 1/2 inch version is cheaper and a great value as well.
On some of these there is nothing stopping it. Which is why on my builds there is always a shutoff valve on both sides to make sure it doesn’t go back into the filters. Some have a one way stop installed like the cr spotless bypass which only allows water to exit the filter housing.
Honestly given that the Waterdrop does this natively and you can use the bulk resin afterwards, I have no idea why I'd build this when I can just buy it as a kit and save time and money, plus it looks great. I think the Waterdrop is the easiest solution for this.
If you don’t already have one for sure the Waterdrop is the way to go, but if you already have $400 into a CR Spotless then this is why you would build one. The one on the Waterdrop will not work with most other housing as it is a 1 inch thread and if you use adapters the distance will be too wide for it to work.
The timing could not be better with this video. Yesterday I was on your website looking for your email because I was setting up a diy by pass and had some questions that I knew you could answer.
That’s an idea for sure. Just not the look I’m going for I like to be a bit extra with the components I use. It’s a need versus a want for sure. Thanks for the great info!
Yup, I already have one on the way to review. Curious to see how it all works. Seeing just the pictures confuses me a bit. I think the Waterdrop is still the better bypass, but we shall see.
@@CarsWithKeav I am also curious to hear your thoughts once you receive it. Coincidentally, I ordered the DIC-20 just three days before the release of the upgrade option. I am considering contacting their support to inquire about options for an exchange.
Just got everything in and noticed your 3/4 NPT Male to Male Elbow Stainless link is to a 1/2 inch and its too small for the sytstem. I cant find a 3/4 inch in stainless
Thanks for letting me know the sellers changed their listing per usual. I checked a few others and they did the same there since their elbows went out of stock. Can’t find a stainless alternative now for a male to male.
Hey, is it just me, or the way you have the 3way tee set up will alway send water through the filter unless you turn the inlet side of the tee into the DI system. Am I missing something?
These Tee’s any side can be the inlet side really as it will only flow two of the three sides at any time. In the setup I have you can either run straight through with the filter side being blocked bypassing through the hose, turning to allow an L shape from inlet into the filter with the bypass hose closed or you have the inlet side closed with no flow through the tee to either side.
Thanks man, however, when you turn down to an L, looks like the top bypass is open, the entrance to the spotless is open, and the inlet at the bottom is open. In this instance, won’t you then have a combo of spotless and normal water flow through ultimately? Same on the outlet side, I can’t see how you can block the filtered spotless water without turning one of those levers 260 degrees. Make sense?
@@Justin-pv3ym I see what your saying and I should have said if you turn all the way around you could open them all up at one time, but the lever in the opposite direction it is only a two way flow. This lever spins 360 degrees and I also undid the lever and changed its positioning to make sure it doesn’t contact the hose. I explained that in the video. Here is some diagrams on the T 3 way valve. tameson.com/pages/ball-valve-circuit-function I think section C best explains my scenario with the inlet being on the left, but what they don’t show you is if you turn even further you could open all 3 at one time. I looked in the valve to see what sides were open and close to choose my placement. These valves for sure can turn 260 degrees to get this result and if you change the position of the lever it makes it part of the 0 to 180 degree normal procedure.
@@Justin-pv3ym no problem I should have explained that better, but I guess I never saw it in that position when testing it out since I changed the lever position. Thanks for bringing that up!
Nice, I checked it out, but decided to go hose in the front just due to wanting to wall mount and wanted to keep with a setup that was easy to follow. A custom hose is not something most viewers would like to replicate which is why I stuck with a popular length.
Man that sucks… fittings suck.. it’s amazing that we are one of the only countries that don’t have universal standards for this kind of stuff.. I hate buying pressure washer fittings…
Simpler yet. get two 3 way Ys hose connectors with 3 ball valves. Now put one on the inlet and one on the outlet. Outlet valves always stay open. Now get or make a short garden hose jumper to go between the two YS and connect to the Y. Now inlet side connects your water supply line. Discharge connect your discharge hose. On the inlet side if running by pass just shut ball valve to filter. Want filter shut bypass valve and open filter valve. Supper easy.
Great idea for sure. CR Spotless sold this exact setup for years and charge $75 for it which is a crazy high price for such a simple setup if you ask me.
This is a re-upload from a few days ago where for some reason 6 minutes of the video was gone and ended abruptly.
Hi there! Thank you so much for this research. Your reloaded video missing product links btw.
@@winfinit Thank You I will look into that. I know some of the links no longer work as the product is not available anymore.
You refuse to stop making my life easier.
Appreciate that!
Thanks Keav, this was great. I assembled this today on my Spotless DIC-20 cart mounted system. It looks great and I am sure it is going to help me save on the filter media. I use SS quick connects on all my garden hoses, so there is no worry about fittings with swivels. Makes it a lot easier to use the system.
That’s awesome! Quick connects always make things easier.
I ended up buying the waterdrop version based on your reviews and don’t regret it! I agree the included bypass itself was worth $100’s and the time saved priceless. Plus it’s 20% off at Amazon right now. Did a wall install with the giraffe g20 and love the compact setup! 0ppm on Seattle city water.
The water drop is so good and when you do your first filter change and you switch over to the bulk resin canisters it will get even better.
I learn something new every video. Thank you Keav.
I do as well when getting ready to film. 🤣
Fantastic set up with the stainless option for the CR!! Thanks for the idea! I'm going for it!
Awesome, I hope it works well for you!
Awesome video! Really appreciate all the time and money you put into this.
I just got my CR Spotless and wanted to build a bypass that was solid and looked good and this vid has everything I needed. Cheers!
You’re welcome! Reach out if you need any questions answered.
I just got the DIC-20 on the cart. it is next to water softener further in the garage. water supply is from softener closer to garage door. I'm going to just split at the water supply with hose outside garage to the pressure washer (on wheels). hose from CR-20 will meet at pressure washer and Y into one. All Ys with valves. I had leaks around the CR-20 connections. I'll minimize them.
Sounds like a great plan. They leak sometimes just got to use some good Teflon tape and should seal up.
Thank you, keav! This was awesome, as always. Learn so much from you. Thanks for buying all those parts,so I don't have to, lol. Have a wonderful week.
I now can start a plumbing hardware store very soon. 🤣🤣🤣
Awesome set up thanks Keav 😁
Thank you
Great info. I made one of my own when I first bought mine but it leaked way too much. Like you, I got frustrated. Glad to find a simple list of parts to order. :)
I had so many fittings that just did not work. It was painful and it’s why it took me two months to get this together. 🤣
@@CarsWithKeav Thanks for the work. I have a box of fittings here too. lol.
Thank you Keav! You are the best! I always ❤your video/ tutorials. My only complaint. Your videos always cause me to buy more items. 😂😂😂
My sole purpose is to max your credit cards. 🤣🤣🤣
Mistakes are awesome to show, as we the viewers learn by them😊
I make lots of mistakes. LOL
Great bypass setup. Would you recommend adding another T-fitting for a built-in TDS meter?
I tried a tds using a tee fitting with 3/4 to 1/4 adapter and a 1/4 push connect fitting, but the meter just wouldn’t read right I think it was too far away from the flow of water. Most of the inline TDS are calibrated for flowing water.
Super cool video!
Thank You
Great Video! I am not criticizing just curious about the "female to female swivel hose" which is Iron pipe thread or straight thread connecting to an NPT or tapered thread fitting. I know the threads are basically the same but not typically connected together. I am assuming this works and I want to make one, just don't want to have a leaking problem. Thanks again for the video.
The straight threaded females seem to seal just fine with not male with Teflon. The opposite not so much. Use many of these hoses in setups and if tightened with a little Teflon never had a leak.
@@CarsWithKeav good to know, thank you!
I think I’m going to to with the larger CR spotless once I can afford it.. I need a deionizer and the CR seems like a fair deal even though it’s pricy. I like they give you the option of a mounted or movable solution… but the struggle is real my man… I can’t stand how many different fittings there are for just about everything… that’s where these companies make their money… it’s their bread and butter.. I remember working for Lowe’s. I installed appliances for 5 years… which killed my body.. but they made more on the hoses and cords than they did on the actual appliances…I am sure they are not the only mega corporation that does the same thing. Thanks for the comparison my man. Always appreciate it.
I have had no issues with my CR spotless. There are cheaper setups, but this one we know just works and can do 2.5 GPM. Yeah you can do the dolly version or the wall mount. They also have one that’s more expensive, but supposed to last longer. Has a weird case around it.
Hello Keav
Nice setup I bought all the fittings except for the 2 SS elbows, do you happen to see the same ones available you used on amz if not can you help point me to right direction of one you see I could use from lowes or homedepot?
I think we talked on Instagrams. Hopefully we got what you need.
@@CarsWithKeav Yes sir ty for your help!
Why do you need two 3-way bypass valves on the Spotless if the Waterdrop only has one?
I mentioned in the video I like to have control so I want valves on both sides rather than just on one side. Plus I think it just looks better being the same on each side, but you could save $12 by not having the valve on the output side and just using a tee fitting.
I’m going to add a check valve on the outlet of the filter before the tee valve to prevent any backflow.
That’s a great idea
I’m building line with all the parts you found. Thanks. Do you know of any stainless steel garden hose splitters? I’d like to come out of my CR Spotless with a host to the pressure washer and another one for filling buckets. I’m having no luck finding one.
You and me both finding a quality Y split for garden hoses is something I am still searching for. This is the best Y split I have found amzn.to/42W3Mzt Nickel plated housing and levers. You could also use an L pattern valve which would be more bulky though.
@@CarsWithKeav Thanks. At least I know it’s not just me! I’ll get that one for now and keep looking.
Have you tested the filter housings with brass thread vs not? Is one better for not leaking?
Material doesn’t matter much how the manufacturer cuts the threads is the biggest problem if something leaks or doesn’t fit right. I have had some crazy bad thread cuts in both stainless and brass. Sometimes they say NPT which tapered, but then the threads are straight cut. 🤷♂️
Wouldn't the T valve have water going through the filter(s) when you have it in the bypass position you showed? Since the straight through would also be open on the T end as well?
This type of bypass isn’t a straight through T type with 3 directions. It is an L type that the water comes in from the bottom and can only go right or left. Right it runs into the input side and left goes to the output side and the one way flow stop keeps the water from back feeding into the filters.
Do you recommend the Max Water? it is one of the cheapest, and i would use an inhose filter first. This is for my house only and we are using well water on the spigots.
It was my first DI system and worked really well it just does not last as long due to its small size. Well water tends to be very hard and high in tds which would overwhelm the max Water quickly. I think before you go any further a water sample needs to be done to check the co2 levels in the well water and how much tds.
Could you substitute 20" cannisters and have the first stage be a sediment filter and the second stage be the DI cartridge and have better results? I get that it increases cost and takes up more space as tradeoffs. But I heard somewhere that if you pre-filter the sediments out, the DI material lasts longer. Otherwise, set up a three stage setup with one sediment filter and 2 DI stages? Thoughts?
If your water has a lot of sediment it might help, but I would use a carbon filter instead if you were to do that just depends if you are on chemically clean city water or well water. It would be the same capacity of resin. If you need a pre-filter that bad then that system is not going to be enough to handle a good flow and clean or it will deplete very fast if it does clean. If water is bad then two 20 inch resin filters might be the way or a bigger tank style. Pre-filter setup before that would help as well. So many options.
@@CarsWithKeav thanks Keav! You have inspired me to DIY a setup. Wish me luck!
@@randallsmith7885 Good Luck!
How does it work with a water softener system, also I would only use it for washing my cars which one is best for me. Do you think?
I have never used a water softener system, but I would think the bypasses would work the exact same. It’s just and in and an out just adapting the fittings correctly is the biggest thing. I like the no riser option just from a value standpoint and I prefer stainless just aesthetically. The 1/2 inch version is cheaper and a great value as well.
I think someone asked on another video, what stops the water going back into the last filter when using bypass?
On some of these there is nothing stopping it. Which is why on my builds there is always a shutoff valve on both sides to make sure it doesn’t go back into the filters. Some have a one way stop installed like the cr spotless bypass which only allows water to exit the filter housing.
Honestly given that the Waterdrop does this natively and you can use the bulk resin afterwards, I have no idea why I'd build this when I can just buy it as a kit and save time and money, plus it looks great. I think the Waterdrop is the easiest solution for this.
If you don’t already have one for sure the Waterdrop is the way to go, but if you already have $400 into a CR Spotless then this is why you would build one. The one on the Waterdrop will not work with most other housing as it is a 1 inch thread and if you use adapters the distance will be too wide for it to work.
@@CarsWithKeavagreed! Thanks for doing these, glad I stumbled on your channel!
The timing could not be better with this video. Yesterday I was on your website looking for your email because I was setting up a diy by pass and had some questions that I knew you could answer.
Awesome! If you have any questions reach out via email or Instagram DM. carswithkeav@gmail.com or carswithkeav on Instagram.
@@CarsWithKeav Thanks!
Y garden hose splitter, 24 in flex heater hose and female to female adapter does the trick for $30
That’s an idea for sure. Just not the look I’m going for I like to be a bit extra with the components I use. It’s a need versus a want for sure. Thanks for the great info!
Hey Keav, CR Spotless just released their integrated resin bypass as an upgrade option.
Yup, I already have one on the way to review. Curious to see how it all works. Seeing just the pictures confuses me a bit. I think the Waterdrop is still the better bypass, but we shall see.
@@CarsWithKeav From the pictures for the DI-120, it looks like it might be some PEX piping with stainless steel 1/2 Inch fittings.
@@jschan Looks that way not sure of that hose that’s hanging in the middle though.
@@CarsWithKeav I am also curious to hear your thoughts once you receive it. Coincidentally, I ordered the DIC-20 just three days before the release of the upgrade option. I am considering contacting their support to inquire about options for an exchange.
Also not sure what's the justification for the upgrade price for the cart version (DIC-20) is twice as high as for the wall-mounted one.
Just got everything in and noticed your 3/4 NPT Male to Male Elbow Stainless link is to a 1/2 inch and its too small for the sytstem. I cant find a 3/4 inch in stainless
Thanks for letting me know the sellers changed their listing per usual. I checked a few others and they did the same there since their elbows went out of stock. Can’t find a stainless alternative now for a male to male.
Hey, is it just me, or the way you have the 3way tee set up will alway send water through the filter unless you turn the inlet side of the tee into the DI system. Am I missing something?
These Tee’s any side can be the inlet side really as it will only flow two of the three sides at any time. In the setup I have you can either run straight through with the filter side being blocked bypassing through the hose, turning to allow an L shape from inlet into the filter with the bypass hose closed or you have the inlet side closed with no flow through the tee to either side.
Thanks man, however, when you turn down to an L, looks like the top bypass is open, the entrance to the spotless is open, and the inlet at the bottom is open. In this instance, won’t you then have a combo of spotless and normal water flow through ultimately? Same on the outlet side, I can’t see how you can block the filtered spotless water without turning one of those levers 260 degrees. Make sense?
@@Justin-pv3ym I see what your saying and I should have said if you turn all the way around you could open them all up at one time, but the lever in the opposite direction it is only a two way flow. This lever spins 360 degrees and I also undid the lever and changed its positioning to make sure it doesn’t contact the hose. I explained that in the video. Here is some diagrams on the T 3 way valve. tameson.com/pages/ball-valve-circuit-function I think section C best explains my scenario with the inlet being on the left, but what they don’t show you is if you turn even further you could open all 3 at one time. I looked in the valve to see what sides were open and close to choose my placement. These valves for sure can turn 260 degrees to get this result and if you change the position of the lever it makes it part of the 0 to 180 degree normal procedure.
Okay, I undid the lever and made the position change / that fixed it 👍. Thank you Sir!
@@Justin-pv3ym no problem I should have explained that better, but I guess I never saw it in that position when testing it out since I changed the lever position. Thanks for bringing that up!
Nice and first
Got first this time since I had to re-upload it. 🤣 Lost 6 minutes of video for some reason on the last one. 🤷♂️
Very cool. I actually made this same video and did a very nice bypass in all stainless. Check it out.
Nice, I checked it out, but decided to go hose in the front just due to wanting to wall mount and wanted to keep with a setup that was easy to follow. A custom hose is not something most viewers would like to replicate which is why I stuck with a popular length.
Man that sucks… fittings suck.. it’s amazing that we are one of the only countries that don’t have universal standards for this kind of stuff.. I hate buying pressure washer fittings…
It’s crazy tapered and not tapered. Drives me nuts.
'Promo sm'
I am so tired of wasting money and leaky connections
Most leaks can be fixed with Teflon and better gaskets, but it’s annoying to have to do that.
Simpler yet. get two 3 way Ys hose connectors with 3 ball valves. Now put one on the inlet and one on the outlet. Outlet valves always stay open. Now get or make a short garden hose jumper to go between the two YS and connect to the Y. Now inlet side connects your water supply line. Discharge connect your discharge hose. On the inlet side if running by pass just shut ball valve to filter. Want filter shut bypass valve and open filter valve. Supper easy.
Great idea for sure. CR Spotless sold this exact setup for years and charge $75 for it which is a crazy high price for such a simple setup if you ask me.