Being an artist, you would know of the late Bob Ross, one of my favourite artists. He had many catchphrases, but one of his best was "we don't make mistakes, we just have happy accidents". I really think that somewhere along the line, the "disaster", (your word, not mine), is nowhere near as bad as you see it. There's a happy accident just around the corner! Keep on smiling.
I am watching with interest. I have not used static grass before. I have only used scatter material. That was some 40 years, plus, ago. I am now getting back into modeling and seeing your video is refreshing. Every one I have seen has been how easy it is and it all goes well, first time. It is nice to see an honest video about these products. Thank you.
Hi Paul, many thanks for sharing the good and the bad, it helps us all. “Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them all yourself.” - Eleanor Roosevelt.
Oh dear! So much frustration for you. Well done for sticking with the word flocking...I'm sure you would rather have replaced that with another word!!! x
These are some of the best videos - when it all goes wrong. We all screw up and the only way to learn how not to screw up is to learn what went wrong. Thank you so much for being open about it. That way we can all learn some of the things to avoid. I do like your layout very much with all of the potential for great scenery along the Kent coast with its cliffs and hills and the track weaving in and out of tunnels, bends and stations. Good job.
Hi Paul, this is a classic case of over thinking it. Use some woodland scenic brown or indeed any brown water based paint from DIY store, apply it neat and let dry as a starting base, maybe a couple of coats. Use cheap PVA brushed on, you simply don't need that fancy glue they sold you, looks like it dried out to quick. Add some WS fine turf and again let it dry. Brush on PVA thinned 50/50 with a drop of washing up liquid to brake surface tension, and THEN apply the flcok. To be frank, anyone that says don't use PVA for applying flock is talking shite, modge podge or Woodland Scenics "Matt Medium" is also excellent for this and can also be thinned with water 50/50 for ground cover and ballast. Apply your flock but don't use one colour, mix colours to add testure. Again, WS products are excelant, Ive always had great success with them. For another great example of these methods, please check out another channel on youtube called 'Everard Junction' he has some excellent videos on using all the above methods and materials and it looks fantastic!!! Good luck, Gary.
Thank you for showing us your problems, it takes a bit to admit you got something wrong and a lot more to openly show that to other people, but in doing so you have helped others to avoid the same problems. 👍👍👍
Paul this is not a disaster, just a learning curve, I admire your bravery in admitting to these railway mishaps. I used a made up emusion paint backing, 50/50ish pva and water., and my home made appling tool and most if not all has worked out OK-ish for me. some has stood and others have layed down but it's there and grand childrens tiny fingers have not distroyed it. So I hope, I can give you inspiration ------- As I like you am a novice at this modelling hobby ----- JT
Great to see the process, even though you were frustrated with it, it’s good to see these sort of video as too many is about how it all goes smoothly, I heard using cheap poster paint is good for a base rather than acrylic paint? Could be wrong, well I’ll wait to see the finished result to find out - good luck with it and thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing your video on how not to “flock”. Some interesting comments made, some I agree with but I’m not an expert on the subject myself. Good luck with your next attempt. Look forward to seeing how you get on. Roy
Oh Paul you do seem to get problems! But to your great credit, you always persevere and come through in the end! I do all my static grass with an old tee strainer applicator using builders PVA and I have to say, I haven’t experienced any problems to date. I hope you resolve the problem soon!
Hi Paul, well I’m glad it’s not just me things happen to😜, but in all honesty, a great video showing mistakes, rather than seeing everything so perfect. Hope to see it corrected on the next video, thanks for sharing, take care and stay safe 👍
Hi Paul, good to see your mistakes that is how we learn, so 10/10 for perseverance. For static attraction forces to come into play you need a good ground plane, that way the charged flock fibres will fly into the glue. I would suggest working in a small area at a time, ensuring an even wet coating during application and a good electrical contact perhaps a clean panel pin into the area being coated and attach the croc clip to that, so continuously charged. I would also look at using a matte finish for the paint. As you did earlier practise on a small test piece first to get your technique perfected, it will save you wasting money on getting it wrong on mass…..Hope helps and fingers crossed on a good solution, best regards Stephen
Thanks, Stephen, Lots of good points were made, I about grounding, but another channel suggested there was no need to do it so I did not. That may well have contributed to the issue. cheers P
@@Sandlingjunction No problem, that can be a problem on uTube with conflicting advice. As a sanity check - if the products are all good quality as you stated (giving repeatable results for others) then the focus needs to be on the application technique. Remember gloss paints reflect the light back because they form smooth surfaces, matte because they form irregular (rough) surfaces dispersing the light in all different directions. Best regards Stephen
Well your first attempt to me looked great. Sometimes you need to ignore what others say. After all you said you was quite pleased with it. It was only after someones comment, then you were seeing it through their eyes. Perhaps it's because your an artist and have a keen eye for the colours. Myself I just use a brown emulsion paint, lay the cheap pva glue quite thick then use a standard flock, I then spray with hair laquer.
Hi Paul, sorry to hear the issues you've had. I had a major issue with my layout when doing a water feature and the cause of that was the acrylic paint. Some brands of acrylic paint have a percentage and I used a 70% acrylic and the Realistic Water that I used seeped into the acrylic and turned the water grey, it's just a thought that may help.
At Warley Model Railway Club we used a complex process on hades Junction. The surface was painted with household emulsion paint in a sort of pinky colour (the colour of the underlying bedrock/soil). First coat was neat pva sprinkled with standard flock blended from different colours. We then painted a coat of diluted pva and used a second coat to give a texture and a good covering. Once we had done that we used more diluted pva and static grass. This was repeated until we were happy with the result - using different lengths (we have a N gauge layout but used up to 4mm for the boggy areas). Don't expect to get a perfect coating first time.
Saw the title, and thought "oh flocking 'eck, what's happened to Paul now?!?!"😂 First thing is to repeat my suggestion to Charlie on the latest Chadwick video: in hidden areas, there's no problem with using surface mounted point motors. (Of course, there's no problem using them in visual areas, if you want to, it's your layout.) I think I've seen that Peco now do some surface mounted ones that clip onto the side of the point (I was going to say 'a bit like Fleischmann ones used to' but that's probably meaningless to you). I've not a clue what you might have done wrong with the grass, other than that were you trying to do too big an area in one go (on your test panel, it looked liked the smeared modge podge had dried before you got the static doodah out). As you say, loads of videos out there. Have you come across the Dartside Scenics channel: he does some lovely scenic work, though on very small dioramas. Though maybe it's you that pointed me to him. The Green Scenics glue looked almost like it would be one to use for adding clumps of taller static grass. I was watching a German channel the other day, and he used an interesting technique of doing a soil layer first, then blobs of glue with one grass, more blobs of glue with another grass and so on. Not saying he's right or wrong, but always good to see alternative techniques. The video is th-cam.com/video/SmlgmgIhvA8/w-d-xo.html (it is in German, but if you can't understand him, you could probably mute it and still get the gist of it.) I actually thought your very first flocking attempt looked very good.
Weird that you had issues with it. I used Sandtex paint where I was doing static grass without an issue. I did notice (all be it one section) the lead that goes to the applicator wasn't touching the wood but this wouldn't affect the sticking just getting it upright. I've used the peco/wws glues without an issue. But then I do put it on quite thick.
Paul, sorry you had so many issues. Can't comment on the paint, I have just used Match pots of household emulsion brown paint and Greenscenes glue. I think maybe you worked on too larger areas at a time, the glue then tends to form a skin which means the fibres don't attach properly. I also noticed that you weren't attaching the earth wire to the glued area when using the static applicator. Good luck with future work.
Hi Paul, best one was the 1st one,sometimes we try too hard, I use cheapest pva,cheapest hair spray and cheapest acrylic paint, mix paint and glue together slop it on then flock it,hairspray it which is an excellent layering spray then flock again using different lengths and colours and it's done, have a little look at my channel and see what you think. And remember it's your layout sometimes best not listening to anyone Kind regards Rob ,Robjohnston loft layout
Dude you need to add a layer of sand or sifted dirt unto the painted surface to simulate ground texture. When this has dried THEN add slightly watered down pva using a pipette so you get a random effect and NOW come in with the static grass. The matte and rough dirt texture will ensure the grass bonds well. Then hoover up excess grass. Watch Everard Junction or The Scrap Line they've done it to superb effect. Joachim
I use the Woodland Scenics waterproof base paint in earth and green before adding grass. I have mixed results with static grass, mainly because I am inpatient. However, I never start again. I just add more over the top :)
Odd that you had a problem! I have used emulsion for many years with total success, but more recent years used cheap acrylic paint, again with success. The only thing I can think of, is that if you use neat acrylic, it forms an impervious layer the glue cant stick too! I have always watered down my paint (slightly), you're looking for colouration, not necessarily coverage. I have also used dies in the past too, but that's another story! Paint with diluted brown and use an even spread of thick glue, to a small area (say no more than one square foot), then flock, but not up to the edge of the glue. Do another small area with glue and repeat. If you glue too big an area, the glue will "skin", before you get to flock it!
Acrylic paints for a base cover I leave it too dry for few hours then I us pva glue on everything.I found no problems with using pva and it's cheaper than the other blues and it don't smell like other glues .All my work I have done looks great. and if it does look good you can always do it again it's ,the more you do the better you get doing that.👍😀
£1 Brown poster paint from Hobbycraft and Supadec boarder and over lap adhesive (about £2 for a 500ml tub). Use a 1" brush. I did all my static grass using these, plus layering spray to add extra colours and heights. I also applied Woodland scenics blended turf stuck down with the adhesive before adding the grass on top. Check out the video on my channel to see the result.
Just a note. The "pinn" on the flocking spreader needs to have CLOSE contact with the spreader and also, it needs to actually be put down to the board. In your videos, I saw you didnt move the probe when it was on the board, and the other klipp, you hade it far off and up in the air. It must be close to the spreader and put down on the board all the time to make the effect work. And remember to move the probe along when you get furter off. Saw a vid by Luke Towan where i explained it all. Good luck flocking from now on :)
Its usual to clip the croc clip to a nail pushed into the scenery or to a nearby rail. That makes the flock firmly embed in the adhesive instead of just laying on top and makes it stand upright. If you want some areas of the grass to lay flat, to add some variety, you can brush it down with your finger(s) before the glue has set. Holding the clip in your hand is also more likely to give you a painful shock. The static effect is made by a very high voltage! (It's also a very low current, so very unlikely to injure you).
Hi Paul 'what the flock' lol. Sorry you had problems but it's great that you have shared. I always use acrylic paint but on top of that I was told to seal it with a good covering of pva and leave for 24hrs. Then after that flock as you did. I've used wws basting glue, green scene flocking glue and pva without a problem. Hope it all turns out OK from now on atb Andy
I just use flat finish interior latex house paint and it works very well its a muddy brown color and I use several different colors of static grass and put it down with white glue but I don't do the whole space I just sprinkle it on and that gives the look of different geases and just keep going until I'm happy with it
PLEASE watch Martin Welberg’s video here on TH-cam about how he does his static grass. It’s eye opening and offers some incredible tips. After watching it I finally gave up all my static grass frustrations.
Paul, why didn’t you include matte medium in the test. You should take a look at Boomer Dioramas, in which he uses matte medium to grass up patches on his layout. Don’t see many modelers use matte medium as a glue base. Although it forms an excellent base and remains elastic after drying. Which in turn could be very beneficial to many modelers. Also, it dries truly clear, which can sometimes be a problem with pva, or mixed modge podge variants. Furthermore, when you wanna finish the glue you bought, maybe consider a dispersal primer. Such a generic primer will prevent the glue or paint, or any other application to ‘burn off.’ Other words for the water based glue to be dehydrated too quickly.
1. You complained in an earlier video about the plywood not being straight against the plaster wall. I could not understand this, unless you were never going to have scenery. In this video the hills cover the join, so a lot of wasted worry. 2. Why do you use such vivid colours of paint? Try using more subtle shades, they look a lot more natural, especially under artificial lighting. 3. I think you have missed a step in your ground cover. I use natural soil of a light colour, held down with diluted PVA. When dry, I apply my static grasses and foams to this. The bare areas look more natural under and between the greens. Also mix your static grass fibres, with varying lengths and colours to make a more natural look.
Paul, don't make hard work for yourself, just use surface mounted point motors, either solenoid or servo ones will do, they won't be seen so what the heck and it will avoid all that hassle !
Lol I don't think they'd like that, in the end, its all an opinion, and one I felt that i needed to follow, although part of me wishes I'd left well alone , cheers P
Respectfully, I thought the first part you did was great looking! A man of your talents should learn to use an airbrush. Airbrushing scenery is easy and it will fix any scenery regardless of the color. I never understood why modelers limit themselves to the process of (fixed color), shake and bake alchemy, when an airbrush can fix any scenery blunders. I do it all the time and it is the easiest way to learn how to use an airbrush as well. The power of an airbrush is in the ability to paint terrain, foliage and static grass (in place) with ease. Furthermore, "Matte Medium" is superior to any of those adhesives you demonstrate, including (cheap quality) mod podge. Nevertheless, each to his or her own, and I am sorry to hear of your plight. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Hello Paul, here's the English channel I was looking for: th-cam.com/users/KathyMillattvideos Kathy does some amazing flocking work. Charles, from Chadwick Model Railway has recommended both Kathy and Luke. Charles himself is good at flocking. You can discuss your ..... flocking problem with them.
Sorry, but common sense said that smearing the glue on in a virtually absent coating, was not ever going to work. No matter who said that would work, it was clear it was complete misunderstanding. No glue = no stick. The first effort was bang on and looked good. You seriously would be better not to listen to your friends, if that's their advice.
Being an artist, you would know of the late Bob Ross, one of my favourite artists. He had many catchphrases, but one of his best was "we don't make mistakes, we just have happy accidents". I really think that somewhere along the line, the "disaster", (your word, not mine), is nowhere near as bad as you see it. There's a happy accident just around the corner! Keep on smiling.
that's true, thanks for reminding me, cheers P
I am watching with interest. I have not used static grass before. I have only used scatter material. That was some 40 years, plus, ago. I am now getting back into modeling and seeing your video is refreshing. Every one I have seen has been how easy it is and it all goes well, first time. It is nice to see an honest video about these products. Thank you.
Cheers Duncan honest and sometimes expensive lol, cheers P
Hi Paul, many thanks for sharing the good and the bad, it helps us all. “Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them all yourself.” - Eleanor Roosevelt.
Those are ver good sound words, must remember them, cheers P
The great thing about You tube is that you can watch all the prior people doing
similar tasks successfully so you don't have to make mistakes.
You'd thought I'd have learn't that lol, cheers P
Oh dear! So much frustration for you. Well done for sticking with the word flocking...I'm sure you would rather have replaced that with another word!!! x
very close to it WENDY, CHEERS P
These are some of the best videos - when it all goes wrong. We all screw up and the only way to learn how not to screw up is to learn what went wrong. Thank you so much for being open about it. That way we can all learn some of the things to avoid. I do like your layout very much with all of the potential for great scenery along the Kent coast with its cliffs and hills and the track weaving in and out of tunnels, bends and stations. Good job.
Thank you Charles, that's very kind of you, warts and all guy, myself lol, cheers P
Hi Paul, this is a classic case of over thinking it. Use some woodland scenic brown or indeed any brown water based paint from DIY store, apply it neat and let dry as a starting base, maybe a couple of coats. Use cheap PVA brushed on, you simply don't need that fancy glue they sold you, looks like it dried out to quick. Add some WS fine turf and again let it dry. Brush on PVA thinned 50/50 with a drop of washing up liquid to brake surface tension, and THEN apply the flcok. To be frank, anyone that says don't use PVA for applying flock is talking shite, modge podge or Woodland Scenics "Matt Medium" is also excellent for this and can also be thinned with water 50/50 for ground cover and ballast. Apply your flock but don't use one colour, mix colours to add testure. Again, WS products are excelant, Ive always had great success with them. For another great example of these methods, please check out another channel on youtube called 'Everard Junction' he has some excellent videos on using all the above methods and materials and it looks fantastic!!! Good luck, Gary.
Thank you Gary many good points made cheers P
Thank you for showing us your problems, it takes a bit to admit you got something wrong and a lot more to openly show that to other people, but in doing so you have helped others to avoid the same problems. 👍👍👍
Paul this is not a disaster, just a learning curve, I admire your bravery in admitting to these railway mishaps. I used a made up emusion paint backing, 50/50ish pva and water., and my home made appling tool and most if not all has worked out OK-ish for me. some has stood and others have layed down but it's there and grand childrens tiny fingers have not distroyed it. So I hope, I can give you inspiration ------- As I like you am a novice at this modelling hobby ----- JT
Thank you, John We learn as we go, and I hope it gets a little better with age lol, cheers P
Great to see the process, even though you were frustrated with it, it’s good to see these sort of video as too many is about how it all goes smoothly, I heard using cheap poster paint is good for a base rather than acrylic paint? Could be wrong, well I’ll wait to see the finished result to find out - good luck with it and thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Thank you for that I hope I do get it right, I am sure it will work out, cheers P
Thanks for sharing your video on how not to “flock”. Some interesting comments made, some I agree with but I’m not an expert on the subject myself. Good luck with your next attempt. Look forward to seeing how you get on. Roy
Thanks, Roy, I hope this coming week does so much better than before, cheers P
Kudos for your perseverence! But it still beats a day at the office!
Just about lol, cheers P
Oh Paul you do seem to get problems! But to your great credit, you always persevere and come through in the end!
I do all my static grass with an old tee strainer applicator using builders PVA and I have to say, I haven’t experienced any problems to date.
I hope you resolve the problem soon!
working on it, and hope normal service will soon return, cheers P
Hi Paul, well I’m glad it’s not just me things happen to😜, but in all honesty, a great video showing mistakes, rather than seeing everything so perfect. Hope to see it corrected on the next video, thanks for sharing, take care and stay safe 👍
Thanks, Paul, yes I do hope that it comes right, cheers P
Hi Paul, good to see your mistakes that is how we learn, so 10/10 for perseverance. For static attraction forces to come into play you need a good ground plane, that way the charged flock fibres will fly into the glue. I would suggest working in a small area at a time, ensuring an even wet coating during application and a good electrical contact perhaps a clean panel pin into the area being coated and attach the croc clip to that, so continuously charged. I would also look at using a matte finish for the paint. As you did earlier practise on a small test piece first to get your technique perfected, it will save you wasting money on getting it wrong on mass…..Hope helps and fingers crossed on a good solution, best regards Stephen
Thanks, Stephen, Lots of good points were made, I about grounding, but another channel suggested there was no need to do it so I did not. That may well have contributed to the issue. cheers P
@@Sandlingjunction No problem, that can be a problem on uTube with conflicting advice. As a sanity check - if the products are all good quality as you stated (giving repeatable results for others) then the focus needs to be on the application technique. Remember gloss paints reflect the light back because they form smooth surfaces, matte because they form irregular (rough) surfaces dispersing the light in all different directions. Best regards Stephen
Yep.. holding the alligator clip in the air won't do any good.
Well your first attempt to me looked great. Sometimes you need to ignore what others say. After all you said you was quite pleased with it. It was only after someones comment, then you were seeing it through their eyes.
Perhaps it's because your an artist and have a keen eye for the colours.
Myself I just use a brown emulsion paint, lay the cheap pva glue quite thick then use a standard flock, I then spray with hair laquer.
Thanks, Roy, think that's correct, hope the next go will compensate, cheers P
Very nice video Paul!! Thanks for sharing. Cheers Onno
thanks, Onno, all the best P
Hi Paul, sorry to hear the issues you've had. I had a major issue with my layout when doing a water feature and the cause of that was the acrylic paint. Some brands of acrylic paint have a percentage and I used a 70% acrylic and the Realistic Water that I used seeped into the acrylic and turned the water grey, it's just a thought that may help.
Oh Tim wow, thanks for that I will seal such areas with plenty of PVA, cheers P
At Warley Model Railway Club we used a complex process on hades Junction. The surface was painted with household emulsion paint in a sort of pinky colour (the colour of the underlying bedrock/soil). First coat was neat pva sprinkled with standard flock blended from different colours. We then painted a coat of diluted pva and used a second coat to give a texture and a good covering. Once we had done that we used more diluted pva and static grass. This was repeated until we were happy with the result - using different lengths (we have a N gauge layout but used up to 4mm for the boggy areas). Don't expect to get a perfect coating first time.
Saw the title, and thought "oh flocking 'eck, what's happened to Paul now?!?!"😂
First thing is to repeat my suggestion to Charlie on the latest Chadwick video: in hidden areas, there's no problem with using surface mounted point motors. (Of course, there's no problem using them in visual areas, if you want to, it's your layout.) I think I've seen that Peco now do some surface mounted ones that clip onto the side of the point (I was going to say 'a bit like Fleischmann ones used to' but that's probably meaningless to you).
I've not a clue what you might have done wrong with the grass, other than that were you trying to do too big an area in one go (on your test panel, it looked liked the smeared modge podge had dried before you got the static doodah out). As you say, loads of videos out there. Have you come across the Dartside Scenics channel: he does some lovely scenic work, though on very small dioramas. Though maybe it's you that pointed me to him. The Green Scenics glue looked almost like it would be one to use for adding clumps of taller static grass. I was watching a German channel the other day, and he used an interesting technique of doing a soil layer first, then blobs of glue with one grass, more blobs of glue with another grass and so on. Not saying he's right or wrong, but always good to see alternative techniques. The video is th-cam.com/video/SmlgmgIhvA8/w-d-xo.html (it is in German, but if you can't understand him, you could probably mute it and still get the gist of it.)
I actually thought your very first flocking attempt looked very good.
In some ways I wish I had left it lol, Ill check all this out Andrew thanks P
Weird that you had issues with it. I used Sandtex paint where I was doing static grass without an issue. I did notice (all be it one section) the lead that goes to the applicator wasn't touching the wood but this wouldn't affect the sticking just getting it upright. I've used the peco/wws glues without an issue. But then I do put it on quite thick.
Thanks, chum, yes I was aware of non contact , again told in another video not needed to touch, that may be wrong, cheers P
Paul, sorry you had so many issues. Can't comment on the paint, I have just used Match pots of household emulsion brown paint and Greenscenes glue. I think maybe you worked on too larger areas at a time, the glue then tends to form a skin which means the fibres don't attach properly. I also noticed that you weren't attaching the earth wire to the glued area when using the static applicator.
Good luck with future work.
Cheers Peter, think I am guilty of most of that , cheers P
Hi Paul, best one was the 1st one,sometimes we try too hard, I use cheapest pva,cheapest hair spray and cheapest acrylic paint, mix paint and glue together slop it on then flock it,hairspray it which is an excellent layering spray then flock again using different lengths and colours and it's done, have a little look at my channel and see what you think. And remember it's your layout sometimes best not listening to anyone
Kind regards Rob ,Robjohnston loft layout
Thanks, Rob I did seem to complicate the matter lol, cheers P
Dude you need to add a layer of sand or sifted dirt unto the painted surface to simulate ground texture. When this has dried THEN add slightly watered down pva using a pipette so you get a random effect and NOW come in with the static grass. The matte and rough dirt texture will ensure the grass bonds well. Then hoover up excess grass. Watch Everard Junction or The Scrap Line they've done it to superb effect. Joachim
Thank you for that I watched both, though you'd be right in thinking I had not. I have now added the dirt layer as i move on, cheers P
Thank’s for sharing. 😃👍
I use the Woodland Scenics waterproof base paint in earth and green before adding grass. I have mixed results with static grass, mainly because I am inpatient. However, I never start again. I just add more over the top :)
Odd that you had a problem! I have used emulsion for many years with total success, but more recent years used cheap acrylic paint, again with success. The only thing I can think of, is that if you use neat acrylic, it forms an impervious layer the glue cant stick too! I have always watered down my paint (slightly), you're looking for colouration, not necessarily coverage. I have also used dies in the past too, but that's another story! Paint with diluted brown and use an even spread of thick glue, to a small area (say no more than one square foot), then flock, but not up to the edge of the glue. Do another small area with glue and repeat. If you glue too big an area, the glue will "skin", before you get to flock it!
thanks all noted, and neat Acrylic was used and most likely that was a good part of my issue in all cases, cheers P
Sometimes mistakes are more informative than ones triumphs
They are in my case lol, cheers P
Acrylic paints for a base cover I leave it too dry for few hours then I us pva glue on everything.I found no problems with using pva and it's cheaper than the other blues and it don't smell like other glues .All my work I have done looks great. and if it does look good you can always do it again it's ,the more you do the better you get doing that.👍😀
thanks, Ian all good advice for sure , cheers P
£1 Brown poster paint from Hobbycraft and Supadec boarder and over lap adhesive (about £2 for a 500ml tub). Use a 1" brush.
I did all my static grass using these, plus layering spray to add extra colours and heights.
I also applied Woodland scenics blended turf stuck down with the adhesive before adding the grass on top.
Check out the video on my channel to see the result.
I will do that thanks, P
Just a note.
The "pinn" on the flocking spreader needs to have CLOSE contact with the spreader and also, it needs to actually be put down to the board. In your videos, I saw you didnt move the probe when it was on the board, and the other klipp, you hade it far off and up in the air.
It must be close to the spreader and put down on the board all the time to make the effect work. And remember to move the probe along when you get furter off.
Saw a vid by Luke Towan where i explained it all.
Good luck flocking from now on :)
Its usual to clip the croc clip to a nail pushed into the scenery or to a nearby rail. That makes the flock firmly embed in the adhesive instead of just laying on top and makes it stand upright. If you want some areas of the grass to lay flat, to add some variety, you can brush it down with your finger(s) before the glue has set. Holding the clip in your hand is also more likely to give you a painful shock. The static effect is made by a very high voltage! (It's also a very low current, so very unlikely to injure you).
Thanks and yes guilty , cheers P
@@henrybest4057 Thanks, Henry all noted cheers P
Hi Paul 'what the flock' lol. Sorry you had problems but it's great that you have shared. I always use acrylic paint but on top of that I was told to seal it with a good covering of pva and leave for 24hrs. Then after that flock as you did. I've used wws basting glue, green scene flocking glue and pva without a problem. Hope it all turns out OK from now on atb Andy
Thanks, Andy yes I have learned a lot some new and some I suspected, cheers P
good vid keep up the good vids thanks lee
Thanks Lee appreciated cheers P
I just use flat finish interior latex house paint and it works very well its a muddy brown color and I use several different colors of static grass and put it down with white glue but I don't do the whole space I just sprinkle it on and that gives the look of different geases and just keep going until I'm happy with it
sound advice thank you P
Y would not talk about a disaster ! Y would talk about a learning curve :):) Our hole life is about learning ,so dont be so hard on youself !! :):)
A very good point and thanks for the reminder, cheers P
PLEASE watch Martin Welberg’s video here on TH-cam about how he does his static grass. It’s eye opening and offers some incredible tips. After watching it I finally gave up all my static grass frustrations.
Thanks for that I will check it out, cheers P
Mistakes are how we learn. I use poster paint underneath static grass with no problems.
Thanks for that Gordon ill remember it keeps coming up, cheers P
Paul, why didn’t you include matte medium in the test. You should take a look at Boomer Dioramas, in which he uses matte medium to grass up patches on his layout. Don’t see many modelers use matte medium as a glue base. Although it forms an excellent base and remains elastic after drying. Which in turn could be very beneficial to many modelers. Also, it dries truly clear, which can sometimes be a problem with pva, or mixed modge podge variants.
Furthermore, when you wanna finish the glue you bought, maybe consider a dispersal primer. Such a generic primer will prevent the glue or paint, or any other application to ‘burn off.’ Other words for the water based glue to be dehydrated too quickly.
I have MAtt Medium in my work so could have, ill look at that last part too. cheers P
1. You complained in an earlier video about the plywood not being straight against the plaster wall. I could not understand this, unless you were never going to have scenery. In this video the hills cover the join, so a lot of wasted worry.
2. Why do you use such vivid colours of paint? Try using more subtle shades, they look a lot more natural, especially under artificial lighting.
3. I think you have missed a step in your ground cover. I use natural soil of a light colour, held down with diluted PVA. When dry, I apply my static grasses and foams to this. The bare areas look more natural under and between the greens. Also mix your static grass fibres, with varying lengths and colours to make a more natural look.
Paul, don't make hard work for yourself, just use surface mounted point motors, either solenoid or servo ones will do, they won't be seen so what the heck and it will avoid all that hassle !
yes I think that is a sound idea, cheers P
Paul, have you seen Luke Towan's channel? He does a lot scenery.
For a more English look, watch EverardJunction New Layout Build - Making a start on the branch line scenery. His grass and trees are amazing.
yes big fan cheers P
I enjoy his work, cheers P
Frankly ... there didn't seem much wrong with the first effort. Maybe you should get rid of that friend.
Lol I don't think they'd like that, in the end, its all an opinion, and one I felt that i needed to follow, although part of me wishes I'd left well alone , cheers P
You'll get there in the end. Need any more help just give me a shout.
Cheers Tim, you know I'll be calling lol, cheers P
We all suffer flock ups.
Respectfully, I thought the first part you did was great looking! A man of your talents should learn to use an airbrush. Airbrushing scenery is easy and it will fix any scenery regardless of the color. I never understood why modelers limit themselves to the process of (fixed color), shake and bake alchemy, when an airbrush can fix any scenery blunders. I do it all the time and it is the easiest way to learn how to use an airbrush as well. The power of an airbrush is in the ability to paint terrain, foliage and static grass (in place) with ease. Furthermore, "Matte Medium" is superior to any of those adhesives you demonstrate, including (cheap quality) mod podge. Nevertheless, each to his or her own, and I am sorry to hear of your plight. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Hello Paul, here's the English channel I was looking for:
th-cam.com/users/KathyMillattvideos
Kathy does some amazing flocking work.
Charles, from Chadwick Model Railway has recommended both Kathy and Luke. Charles himself is good at flocking. You can discuss your ..... flocking problem with them.
Why did you use green the ground is brown Then put static grass and flock on top
Yeah get that, I did explain that in the vid, lol, and reverted to brown now.
Sorry, but common sense said that smearing the glue on in a virtually absent coating, was not ever going to work. No matter who said that would work, it was clear it was complete misunderstanding. No glue = no stick.
The first effort was bang on and looked good. You seriously would be better not to listen to your friends, if that's their advice.
I always use PVA
Seems that most do, i guess i will too, cheers P
Best advice.. watch some Luke towen videos