Nice talk through. I'm a professional in this area - mainly coming from aircraft before automobiles. I find many DIY channels do not express understanding of the materials and even many car audio shops or installation centres do not understand the materials and how to use them optimally. Constrained layer damping, deflection, absorption it all needs to work together. These materials are also designed to provide significant thermal benefits and survive in very hot places which makes choice of brand important.
I respect your knowledge, can you give me exact procent of covering the trunk, sound deadening and material which to use to get best , but not add so much weight to the car?..should I start with trunk or doors, floor ?, honda civic x generation sedan, no much sound deadening and isolation stuff under ordinary carpet?
@@ksweden3455 First is to understand are your goals: 1. Reduce noise from the outside world so driving is nicer and music needs less volume to be heard clearly. 2. Improve quality of audio in the car by: A) Reducing reflections (increased damping of the floor and roof), B) Reducing or stopping panel resonance (eg hatchbacks are prone to vibrating inner plastic covers), C) removing specific vibrations from wiring bundles or other elements specific to your car. Some become more obvious as louder noises are removed. Preliminary work: 1. Know your car - which types of noise are bothersome for your car with its design. Tyre, exhaust drone, wind (roof , windows or doors), engine noise as examples. The source location and freq of noise is what you want to know. This will tell you what material and location strategy will help. 2. Have a FULL workshop manual to understand how to disassemble your car interior without breaking parts. TYPES OF MATERIAL AND FUNCTION 1. "Constrained Layer Damping" adds flexible mass to a surface, captures vibration and converts it to heat. This is what "Dynamat" is and it is used on any surface like car panels that resonate or sound "drummy" when you tap them. About 10%-25% coverage of each "drummy" section is advised yet many use it 100% and even in dual layers which adds a huge amount of weight for potentially very limited gain vs other materials. 2. "Viscoelastic Damping Material" that are "Mass Loaded" like "Mass Loaded Vinyl" (MLV) is used to block low freq noise. Exhaust, road noise and some wind noise freq. It's very effective yet reasonably heavy by design. Dynaliner is a good example that also incorporates a foam layer on either side which absorbs higher freq noise. 3. Closed cell Foam is used to absorb higher freq energy that MLV will not. It's great for absorbing some noise coming in, and potentially deadening the sound bouncing around in the cabin. Side NOTE about vehicle heat: "Emissivity" is the process of heat energy being reflected by a radiant barrier. Mostly a concept used in insulation of rooves in homes. The shiny silver foil reflects energy and thus reduces heat in the home. A shiny product like Dynamat is often used to reduce heat from the engine and exhaust along the transmission tunnel by using 100% coverage. Again this is quite heavy compared with using a radiant barrier on its own with suitable sound isolation over it and then carpet. Understand that on the roof this may reduce the "hot head" feeling of heat coming through onto your head, but the vehicle will still get as hot as it is going to because of heated glass, metal panels and "heat soak". Understand the limitations of the materials. A Case Example of my own vehicles: 1. Apply viscoelastic material like dynamat to doors, quarter panels, roof, floor pan aiming for about 15% coverage of each area where tapping produces a "drum" like sound. [NOTE: This is often the biggest point of "failure" that I describe in those fitting these materials - when they cover entire interiors in multiple layers INSTEAD of using lighter and more effective products to get a better or equivalent finish (for less weight, time and cost).] 2. Apply radiant barrier if heat management is absent and is a core desire - on roof, firewall, transmission /exhaust tunnel as necessary. 3. Apply MLV like Dynaliner on the entire floor, boot, tyre well, wheel arches, rear quarter panels and even the hatch if it's a hatch back. Cut, tape or do what's needed to shape it on curves to be as complete as possible. Gaps matter - think of a closed door at home where noise comes under it to be heard. The roof as well if you can fit it between the roof and roof card. This is aimed at reducing road noise, tyre noise, exhaust drone, engine noise and wind noise (the roof may matter more with roof racks as they can create loud noise). 4. Apply suitable mould/weather proof adhesive backed close cell foams to door panels, door cards, other locations not yet insulated. Use the thickest you can in any particular spot. If your MLV does not incorporate a foam layer you would place foam on all MLV locations - especially the floor to ensure max use of the carpet for absorption and best comfort. If MLV is not in the roof use the thickest foam you can while still having the roof liner fit. [Watch a lot of the good YT videos on doing this to seal the door and around speakers so that the sound that gets into the door is minimised from coming through the inner door lining and door card. Foam behind speakers in the door can help prevent backwave issues too]. 5. wrap foam around cable bundles or use it on dash panels etc - even dynamat if needed to deal with panels that vibrate or resonate because of the sound system. That's a basic start for you.
Very Nice Boost And Shutter! I know you and I have been trading information for quite sometime and yes I did exactly what you did before you posted your video of sound deadening. I left some areas untreated because I didn’t want to drown out too much exhaust sound, while trying control the acoustics of the car with the solo baric subwoofer! I agree with your main point of having a certain taste for types of cars! At the end of the day you don’t buy an STI for the audio/lack of a sound controlling. You buy the STI for the analog rally performance feel. However, making it your own by cleaning up your sound stage for long travels doesn’t hurt either if your an audiophile or you simply just want to control in-cabin noise! To whom is watching this video, Boost knows his plan of attack on any project he does and he pays attention to detail while doing his homework before investing in the time! As I do! Trust me fellow WRX owners, you’ll save time/money/ and at the same time gain knowledge of doing something yourself that in the end you’ll pat yourself on the back in the end! Be safe All!!! “STIRAN”
I appreciate that you showed the cookie sheet, AND referenced "dimenishing returns" for foam coverage. Excellent. Someone selling the product would have said "you need 110% coverage. The REALITY is, if you stop the metal from vibrating, you stopped it from vibrating. 🍻👍
Cover 110%. Been doin this 20 years. Don’t skimp out. U add 40-100lbs. Your gas tank won’t notice a 5 year old in the passenger seat. No such thing as diminishing return here. Cover the engine bay too
Hi there. I came across your channel and your videos are amazing and informative. I have a 2023 WRX And I would like to install a Subwoofer and Amp. With watching your videos, I decided to take this task and do it myself with the guidance of your videos. Now I’m purchasing the LC2I to go with the setup. I was wondering if you can recommend an Amp and subwoofer for me. Thanks for your help and advice.
Hi there. I love your videos. ? I have a 2023 WRX and I’m looking to add subwoofer to it. I I was wondering do you know where I can a find a harness to tap into the speakers so I can send the speaker signal to the LC2i. And can you recommend a subwoofer and AMP. Thank you so much.
Imagine if Subaru took the time and applied a (sound) deadening material to the underside and (interior) floor pan. Not just the tiny "panel squares" they place sparingly throughout the car. 10 lbs of material sprayed either before or after paint would be fine AND they can still use the flat aero panels underneath as well
Should have shown the before and after video with the stock trunk liner installed and the rear seats up, as that is the actual driving experience. I’m sure the deadening was much better after you put it all back together and had the seats up.
If I only had the time. Sure, I could split the job into smaller chunks...but I still need the time (minimum of 30 mins) to remove/replace. Gorilla packing tape works too for seam sealing.
would love to see what you did with the third brake light i've matted the bottom of the plastic shelf, put some on the 3rd brake light itself, matted the top AND bottom of the metal deck and it STILL rattles. it's a very loose connection to the rear deck.
I can tell you with 100% certainty that the seat belt mechanism will always be a rattle point. There is nothing that can be done because it's a sealed mechanism that you can't remove and it has lose parts inside (I've taken it apart)
@@akqjtn I've had my kids push down slightly on the 3rd brake like and it immediately stops that part from rattling. maybe once that's done i'll hear the seatbelt, but for now, it's that ridiculous 3rd brake light
In the trunk there is a hole for the light, try inserting some material in there to push the panel up in that spot slightly, stopped that particular rattle for me...
Great videos here! Will you do a video on how to bypass the HK sub and run another sub with aftermarket amp.? ( I have a Kenwood DDX head unit with the preouts).
it is a big source. On some vehicles the roof is another (also a massive heat source having no quality reflective barrier under the roof liner). Exhaust /transmission tunnel too. Windows are a tough choice - about the best you can look at there is glass thickness, and possibly a glass laminate. I don't think anyone has done actual research on how tint alters the resonance of glass but it would have an impact.
Hey boost, I have a 2020 wrx base and watched alot your videos. I upgraded my speakers and I'm debating on if I should do the idoing head unit or add amp an sub with line output converter. What would be the most cost effective or what order would you do those upgrades? Was also wondering if any of these upgrades set off your starlink telemetrics box.
one of the first youtubers who told how STI is a rally car..... so all those guys who are comparing Mustang/Type R or Golf R with STI, are really confused ......
@@akqjtn thanks for the advice. Also how did you place an order with this company ctk? I checked the website and tried to order materials, but they don’t give an option to pay or specify delivery details
Hey, where did you buy it at because when you go on the website and so like where to buy the United States is not included. Can you please help me find out where exactly to order this material from and how to do it
Never understood why anyone would do all that work only to budget on material 😢😢. DYNAMAT EXTREME! Pay the extra $ since u putting in all that love. U goin backwards
If you advise other people on products and solutions to problems. THEN UNDERSTAND THE ISSUE YOURSELF!!!! USING TAPE AT THE JOINTS OF MATERIAL!!! MONEY WASTE AND COMPLETE BULLSHIT!
Never knew that CTK was Ukranian, its just another reason to buy from them. I have a Honda Accord 2008, and man the trunk vibrates so bad it destroys my experience. it resonates around 80-100hz like crazy. I suspect its the rear deck cus the sheet metal there is paper thin
![สาวเมืองเพชร - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kEt7F9PvO3I/mqdefault.jpg)
Install and review of sound deadening/proofing materials from CTK. Let me know if you have questions!
Is this butyl or has some kind of tar? Because it smells like tar, something that I didn't smell on 5.5 multimat
Also, is this ok for under the hood?
Nice talk through.
I'm a professional in this area - mainly coming from aircraft before automobiles. I find many DIY channels do not express understanding of the materials and even many car audio shops or installation centres do not understand the materials and how to use them optimally.
Constrained layer damping, deflection, absorption it all needs to work together.
These materials are also designed to provide significant thermal benefits and survive in very hot places which makes choice of brand important.
I respect your knowledge, can you give me exact procent of covering the trunk, sound deadening and material which to use to get best , but not add so much weight to the car?..should I start with trunk or doors, floor ?, honda civic x generation sedan, no much sound deadening and isolation stuff under ordinary carpet?
@@ksweden3455
First is to understand are your goals:
1. Reduce noise from the outside world so driving is nicer and music needs less volume to be heard clearly.
2. Improve quality of audio in the car by:
A) Reducing reflections (increased damping of the floor and roof),
B) Reducing or stopping panel resonance (eg hatchbacks are prone to vibrating inner plastic covers),
C) removing specific vibrations from wiring bundles or other elements specific to your car. Some become more obvious as louder noises are removed.
Preliminary work:
1. Know your car - which types of noise are bothersome for your car with its design.
Tyre, exhaust drone, wind (roof , windows or doors), engine noise as examples.
The source location and freq of noise is what you want to know. This will tell you what material and location strategy will help.
2. Have a FULL workshop manual to understand how to disassemble your car interior without breaking parts.
TYPES OF MATERIAL AND FUNCTION
1. "Constrained Layer Damping" adds flexible mass to a surface, captures vibration and converts it to heat. This is what "Dynamat" is and it is used on any surface like car panels that resonate or sound "drummy" when you tap them.
About 10%-25% coverage of each "drummy" section is advised yet many use it 100% and even in dual layers which adds a huge amount of weight for potentially very limited gain vs other materials.
2. "Viscoelastic Damping Material" that are "Mass Loaded" like "Mass Loaded Vinyl" (MLV) is used to block low freq noise. Exhaust, road noise and some wind noise freq.
It's very effective yet reasonably heavy by design.
Dynaliner is a good example that also incorporates a foam layer on either side which absorbs higher freq noise.
3. Closed cell Foam is used to absorb higher freq energy that MLV will not. It's great for absorbing some noise coming in, and potentially deadening the sound bouncing around in the cabin.
Side NOTE about vehicle heat: "Emissivity" is the process of heat energy being reflected by a radiant barrier. Mostly a concept used in insulation of rooves in homes. The shiny silver foil reflects energy and thus reduces heat in the home. A shiny product like Dynamat is often used to reduce heat from the engine and exhaust along the transmission tunnel by using 100% coverage. Again this is quite heavy compared with using a radiant barrier on its own with suitable sound isolation over it and then carpet.
Understand that on the roof this may reduce the "hot head" feeling of heat coming through onto your head, but the vehicle will still get as hot as it is going to because of heated glass, metal panels and "heat soak". Understand the limitations of the materials.
A Case Example of my own vehicles:
1. Apply viscoelastic material like dynamat to doors, quarter panels, roof, floor pan aiming for about 15% coverage of each area where tapping produces a "drum" like sound.
[NOTE: This is often the biggest point of "failure" that I describe in those fitting these materials - when they cover entire interiors in multiple layers INSTEAD of using lighter and more effective products to get a better or equivalent finish (for less weight, time and cost).]
2. Apply radiant barrier if heat management is absent and is a core desire - on roof, firewall, transmission /exhaust tunnel as necessary.
3. Apply MLV like Dynaliner on the entire floor, boot, tyre well, wheel arches, rear quarter panels and even the hatch if it's a hatch back. Cut, tape or do what's needed to shape it on curves to be as complete as possible.
Gaps matter - think of a closed door at home where noise comes under it to be heard.
The roof as well if you can fit it between the roof and roof card.
This is aimed at reducing road noise, tyre noise, exhaust drone, engine noise and wind noise (the roof may matter more with roof racks as they can create loud noise).
4. Apply suitable mould/weather proof adhesive backed close cell foams to door panels, door cards, other locations not yet insulated. Use the thickest you can in any particular spot.
If your MLV does not incorporate a foam layer you would place foam on all MLV locations - especially the floor to ensure max use of the carpet for absorption and best comfort.
If MLV is not in the roof use the thickest foam you can while still having the roof liner fit.
[Watch a lot of the good YT videos on doing this to seal the door and around speakers so that the sound that gets into the door is minimised from coming through the inner door lining and door card. Foam behind speakers in the door can help prevent backwave issues too].
5. wrap foam around cable bundles or use it on dash panels etc - even dynamat if needed to deal with panels that vibrate or resonate because of the sound system.
That's a basic start for you.
@@michaelrobinson9643Thank for this!
Very Nice Boost And Shutter! I know you and I have been trading information for quite sometime and yes I did exactly what you did before you posted your video of sound deadening. I left some areas untreated because I didn’t want to drown out too much exhaust sound, while trying control the acoustics of the car with the solo baric subwoofer!
I agree with your main point of having a certain taste for types of cars! At the end of the day you don’t buy an STI for the audio/lack of a sound controlling. You buy the STI for the analog rally performance feel. However, making it your own by cleaning up your sound stage for long travels doesn’t hurt either if your an audiophile or you simply just want to control in-cabin noise!
To whom is watching this video, Boost knows his plan of attack on any project he does and he pays attention to detail while doing his homework before investing in the time! As I do! Trust me fellow WRX owners, you’ll save time/money/ and at the same time gain knowledge of doing something yourself that in the end you’ll pat yourself on the back in the end!
Be safe All!!!
“STIRAN”
Thank you this helped me make my decision
nicely said
I have an older forester XT and HOLY LOUDNESS. great video
Yeah, older cars definitely benefit from this a lot more than newer cars
I appreciate that you showed the cookie sheet, AND referenced "dimenishing returns" for foam coverage. Excellent. Someone selling the product would have said "you need 110% coverage. The REALITY is, if you stop the metal from vibrating, you stopped it from vibrating. 🍻👍
Cover 110%. Been doin this 20 years. Don’t skimp out. U add 40-100lbs. Your gas tank won’t notice a 5 year old in the passenger seat. No such thing as diminishing return here. Cover the engine bay too
Next time you do this, get you some transparent floor protection film. It makes the tracing of clips and holes needed in the sheet easy and accurate.
Thank you for this video. I installed a Cobb Catback and it has some drone highway speeds. Considering to buy Kilamat for the trunk so ease the drone.
Great tutorial! Filled in a lot of the fine detail of the installation.
Why did you choose CTK over Soundskins this time?
How many square feet did it take to do the trunk with just the sound deadner and not the foam
Hi there. I came across your channel and your videos are amazing and informative.
I have a 2023 WRX And I would like to install a Subwoofer and Amp.
With watching your videos, I decided to take this task and do it myself with the guidance of your videos. Now I’m purchasing the LC2I to go with the setup.
I was wondering if you can recommend an Amp and subwoofer for me.
Thanks for your help and advice.
Very neat!
I'm considering it myself. I did the trunk in my older vehicles but to get to the floor is more difficult.
Hi there. I love your videos. ? I have a 2023 WRX and I’m looking to add subwoofer to it. I I was wondering do you know where I can a find a harness to tap into the speakers so I can send the speaker signal to the LC2i.
And can you recommend a subwoofer and AMP.
Thank you so much.
Hey man, love your vids and see you haven't been on your socials for over a year now. Hope you're doing okay.
This is a great mod for subaru. Which are known for excess road noise.
True story
Imagine if Subaru took the time and applied a (sound) deadening material to the underside and (interior) floor pan. Not just the tiny "panel squares" they place sparingly throughout the car. 10 lbs of material sprayed either before or after paint would be fine AND they can still use the flat aero panels underneath as well
Should have shown the before and after video with the stock trunk liner installed and the rear seats up, as that is the actual driving experience. I’m sure the deadening was much better after you put it all back together and had the seats up.
If I only had the time. Sure, I could split the job into smaller chunks...but I still need the time (minimum of 30 mins) to remove/replace. Gorilla packing tape works too for seam sealing.
Great review.
would love to see what you did with the third brake light
i've matted the bottom of the plastic shelf, put some on the 3rd brake light itself, matted the top AND bottom of the metal deck and it STILL rattles. it's a very loose connection to the rear deck.
I can tell you with 100% certainty that the seat belt mechanism will always be a rattle point. There is nothing that can be done because it's a sealed mechanism that you can't remove and it has lose parts inside (I've taken it apart)
@@akqjtn I've had my kids push down slightly on the 3rd brake like and it immediately stops that part from rattling. maybe once that's done i'll hear the seatbelt, but for now, it's that ridiculous 3rd brake light
In the trunk there is a hole for the light, try inserting some material in there to push the panel up in that spot slightly, stopped that particular rattle for me...
@@akqjtn alrighty, I'll give that a shot. Appreciate all the videos!
did you also lessen the noise of the exhaust from the cabin?
Great videos here! Will you do a video on how to bypass the HK sub and run another sub with aftermarket amp.? ( I have a Kenwood DDX head unit with the preouts).
In hindsight, I think trying to reduce or stop road noise coming in from the wheel wells would be a good area to prioritize
it is a big source. On some vehicles the roof is another (also a massive heat source having no quality reflective barrier under the roof liner). Exhaust /transmission tunnel too. Windows are a tough choice - about the best you can look at there is glass thickness, and possibly a glass laminate. I don't think anyone has done actual research on how tint alters the resonance of glass but it would have an impact.
Ctk is a ukrainian company. So you have great products and help a ukrainian company.
When will the new soundinsulation video will come up?
Is this butyl or has some kind of tar? Because it smells like tar, something that I didn't smell on 5.5 multimat
Also, is this ok for under the hood?
This was an amazing vid wow
Gotta do the floors too now.
Yup, definitely will
@@akqjtn...from inside the car (under the carpet), or actually under the car where the aero panels are?
On your idoing head unit. does it support FLAC,WAV, files. I have a 21 sti I'm a IASCA competitor.
Gracias X el Video Brother... is very useful and will do something similar to mine.
De nada my friend
any ideas for the map light and sunroof controls rattling?
Hey boost, I have a 2020 wrx base and watched alot your videos. I upgraded my speakers and I'm debating on if I should do the idoing head unit or add amp an sub with line output converter. What would be the most cost effective or what order would you do those upgrades? Was also wondering if any of these upgrades set off your starlink telemetrics box.
I just installed an Idoing head unit in my 2021 wrx and it made a noticeable difference in sound quality.
@Jake Hallgren I ended up installing the idoing with a sub under my passenger seat. An jbl speakers and kenwood tweeters. Big difference.
one of the first youtubers who told how STI is a rally car..... so all those guys who are comparing Mustang/Type R or Golf R with STI, are really confused ......
The STI was meant to be a track car.
Hey i cant hear certain bass sounds and certain instruments on my system. Why is that happening??
How much square footage of material did you use or recommend to cover the entire trunk space or in particular the area you covered?
16 sheets will do the trunk comfortably
@@akqjtn thanks for the advice. Also how did you place an order with this company ctk? I checked the website and tried to order materials, but they don’t give an option to pay or specify delivery details
Do you do installations?
Hey, where did you buy it at because when you go on the website and so like where to buy the United States is not included. Can you please help me find out where exactly to order this material from and how to do it
Have you figured out how to order these yet? Can’t seem to get them
@@gobisohal3967
No, I haven’t figured it out yet. I’m trying to contact the company, but they never respond back.
Where did older them bro
Hello, are you still around? Hope you’re doing well.
Hi, thank you. I am fine. A lot of things happened all at once for me and had to take a long break from TH-cam. I'm starting back up though.
I go on the website, but there’s nowhere to add them to the cart to pay for the items.
Did you ever figure this out? Trying to buy them myself now
Why is he making his car so flammable lol and heavier ? He wraps all electronic… what if there is a short ?
GG
ok 160km + in STI U cant hear your toughts... on the highway ......
No big difference
Never understood why anyone would do all that work only to budget on material 😢😢. DYNAMAT EXTREME! Pay the extra $ since u putting in all that love. U goin backwards
If you advise other people on products and solutions to problems. THEN UNDERSTAND THE ISSUE YOURSELF!!!! USING TAPE AT THE JOINTS OF MATERIAL!!! MONEY WASTE AND COMPLETE BULLSHIT!
Never knew that CTK was Ukranian, its just another reason to buy from them. I have a Honda Accord 2008, and man the trunk vibrates so bad it destroys my experience. it resonates around 80-100hz like crazy. I suspect its the rear deck cus the sheet metal there is paper thin