A while ago I stopped trying to print long parts with the cross filament. I get much better results by printing the long parts lengthwise and then gluing them together. It happened to me trying to print fishing buoys and I gave up. I printed them lying down, with the filament lengthwise and they turned out much better and very resistant. I am pleasantly surprised by your skills and the quality of your work!!
I've used plastidip on a 3d print. It was a forward grip I made for my ar15. I don't think it added strength, I used it to give it a soft rubberized grip to it. People always asked where I got the grip because they liked it. The look on their face was priceless when I told them.I 3d printed it. I think most people in general have the idea that 3d printing is only for making little toys and trinkets.
You can heat treat PLA. It adds a good bit of strength and stiffness. Around 90C, or experiment with temperature so it doesn’t melt. for an hour or 2. Will create a bit of shrinkage in the longer dimensions though
@@LindyDesignLab If you re-print try printing the tall spikes as separate pieces. Put a cylindrical hollow inside the spike and also the crown then use a rigid metal pin to reinforce inside when you glue the pieces together. I bet the paint and plasti dip would cover the join having watched your video. I'm impressed it printed as well as it did in 1 piece. Nice work. I'm just here for the PLA + Plastidip advice.
The crown looks amazing! If you really want to wear that for a cosplay event tho, i think the long spikes need some more reinforcement so they wont just brake off at first contact. You could try to print them hollow, with an access hole on the inside of the crown and try to fill them up with a very liquid epoxy resin. Or make a hole in them so you could push an aluminium rod/tube (maybe around 4-5mm diameter) in there and glue that into place.
have you tried xtc? different texture/feel, and would drown out the details some, but definitely strengthens a 3d print. I used XTC on a multipart PETg cave/perch for my bearded dragon, and the coating is very durable -- I then brushed on some flex seal to give him some grip as the XTC stuff is very slick. FlexSeal coating is pealing off, but the print itself is still perfect 2+ years later.
It's easier to control, so it can be applied with a brush and stays very liquid until it cures, it's also geared for 3D prints as it doesn't get as hot when it cures.
A while ago I stopped trying to print long parts with the cross filament. I get much better results by printing the long parts lengthwise and then gluing them together.
It happened to me trying to print fishing buoys and I gave up. I printed them lying down, with the filament lengthwise and they turned out much better and very resistant.
I am pleasantly surprised by your skills and the quality of your work!!
Oh absolutely, that's the way to go!
I've used plastidip on a 3d print. It was a forward grip I made for my ar15. I don't think it added strength, I used it to give it a soft rubberized grip to it. People always asked where I got the grip because they liked it. The look on their face was priceless when I told them.I 3d printed it. I think most people in general have the idea that 3d printing is only for making little toys and trinkets.
That's a smart application.
5:50 I like happy accidents, sometimes my best work are from these
Really interesting seeing it painted and detailed. Thanks for the share.
It's interesting when things don't turn out as expected, for better or for worse, always educational.
You can heat treat PLA. It adds a good bit of strength and stiffness. Around 90C, or experiment with temperature so it doesn’t melt. for an hour or 2. Will create a bit of shrinkage in the longer dimensions though
Good point. I have watched tutorials for heat treating but haven't tried it yet.
I enjoyed the video, thanks! The care you put into the work, shows in the details; very nice indeed! Thanks for sharing this!
Glad you enjoyed the video, and thank you!
Please also try truck bedliner sprays if they make the print stronger....hmmm...
Wow, Lindy, Very Cool, Well Done! You truly have a lot of talent and dedication in your work, congratulations and wishing you much success!
Thank you!
@@LindyDesignLab If you re-print try printing the tall spikes as separate pieces. Put a cylindrical hollow inside the spike and also the crown then use a rigid metal pin to reinforce inside when you glue the pieces together. I bet the paint and plasti dip would cover the join having watched your video. I'm impressed it printed as well as it did in 1 piece. Nice work.
I'm just here for the PLA + Plastidip advice.
Lindy,
Did you notice if the Plastidip covered up some of the PLA lines from the print?
You are absolutely adorable! Just what I wanted to see with the plasti dip. Subbed
Of course! Plasti dip is perfect for my current project! Thank you!
It's useful stuff sometimes.
The crown looks amazing!
If you really want to wear that for a cosplay event tho, i think the long spikes need some more reinforcement so they wont just brake off at first contact. You could try to print them hollow, with an access hole on the inside of the crown and try to fill them up with a very liquid epoxy resin. Or make a hole in them so you could push an aluminium rod/tube (maybe around 4-5mm diameter) in there and glue that into place.
Agreed, this one would not survive outside the studio. I'd trust a reinforcement rod most because I know at least that would not shatter.
Try Raptor bed liner. There's a few tough sprays which are similar.
Cool.
have you tried xtc? different texture/feel, and would drown out the details some, but definitely strengthens a 3d print. I used XTC on a multipart PETg cave/perch for my bearded dragon, and the coating is very durable -- I then brushed on some flex seal to give him some grip as the XTC stuff is very slick. FlexSeal coating is pealing off, but the print itself is still perfect 2+ years later.
Haven't tried it. Is it much different from a standard epoxy resin?
It's easier to control, so it can be applied with a brush and stays very liquid until it cures, it's also geared for 3D prints as it doesn't get as hot when it cures.
Came out really good.
Thanks!
Hello.. Great job.. do you have the 3d pattern for the 3d printer, that you are willing to sell?
No, this was not 3d modeled by me.
Lindy Design Lab Are you willing to direct me to the person, as I would love to purchase one for a cosplay
@@Oldmanflyfishing please send request on Lindy design lab website contact form
Yo this is some cool shit, when will all the Armour be done!?????!
It's a long term project as I have time.
i like her hat :)
The sun was blinding that day!
Love it
Glad you enjoyed the project!
You make such cool stuff. Great job on Lens show BTW.
Hope you enjoyed the video, and thanks!