I really like the gold with the moose on the inside of the fork. The little details like this really make it look more custom. I found it interesting that you ended up in the position where the whole bike was sprayed with gloss coat. May have saved some time if you'd gloss cleared the decals you'd just painted in gold before removing all the masking. Then given you had to mask up the gold decals to paint the green areas that had got scratched, you could've sprayed mat clear over that area straight away. Either way glad you're happy with the outcome!
Thank you so much for making this video. So well made. A perfect walkthrough that I can refer to for a concept I'm working on. Admittedly, I'm now even more intimidated to take the project on, but at least I feel better prepared for what to expect. Your attention to detail is really appreciated.
Very nice job! It looks fantastic and the best part is that no other bike will look the same! I’d have painted the inside of the rear triangle (chainstay, etc) to go with the golden part of the fork, but all in all, excellent design!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you very much! :) Yes, thats the beauty with custom painting! I was thinking about it but I decided to go with all green on the inside of the rear triangle for two of reasons. To begin with I planned on laying a matt clear coat on the green in the end. And masking that area to keep the gold glossy would have been very hard. Also the edges between the areas that would be gold and green were not that defined on this frame and I found it hard to imagine where to put the lines. The risk of failure was simply too big in comparison to the gains. :)
QUESTION: First,Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I may be repainting my SCOTT carbon bike soon. My question is, Why do you need to remove all the paint first. Can't you simply de-gloss the surface and/or remove the clearcoat, than primer and paint over the original? I did that with one of my aluminium bikes last month and it looks great and holding up so far. ???
Its absolutely a possibility. But for me, it’s a few things. I get to inspect the frame and find any cracks or flaws before I paint. The new paint might react with the old paint and destroy the paint job. Weight savings, it’s marginal, but still. So if I’m gonna put so much time, money and effort into the job, I like to do it on a raw frame.
What a great video, and awesome color combo. Hey which vinyl and transfer tape do you use? Also how long can you leave the decals, before you need to remove them? Congrats on the bike build, just watched that one as well, great looking bike :)
Thank you! 🙏🏻 the vinyl I use is the Oramask 810/813: amzn.to/3tFaInC and a regular gridded transfer tape, don’t remember the brand. When it comes to how long, I almost got mad before I figured out why I got residue left in the paint. But I cracked it, see my solution here: th-cam.com/video/YuLc7yfZw3g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vM6d6WCq6qrmxJyr
That's very interesting, it's almost there is some kind of a chemical reaction between the sticker and the paint. It's almost like the Montana paint dissolves the adhesive from the mask. Anyway, thanks for sharing the process and all, great videos.@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT
Og-evkin is a good brand. I have an integrated bar and stem handlebar on my emonda. I had a crash in which I hit a car with my front tire and the frame split in half at the head tube had a broken arm but the handle bar didn’t suffer any damage
Not sure what you used to remove the residue, but for a gentle glue / residue removal try next time citrus furniture polish ( pledge) there are also no name brands you can get cheap work the same.
Thanks. I tried a couple of home remedies, bicarbonate and olive oil amongst other. Took some but I pretty sure I let the masking sit for to long and the glue “grew” in to the “raw” painted area. Didn’t try your solution though. I’ll probably will on a separate test tube. 👍
Should I sand between each layer of primer or only once it has cured for 24 hours. And then finish off with the final primer and move onto the base coat. And should I do the same to the base coat? Sand in between the base layer x2/3 and on the final coat? Or leave the final base coat untouched from sanding? And once I applied my decals and logos. I will apply the colour layers 2/3 times again. Should I sand the colour or I shouldn’t touch it? And only sand after I applied the clear coat? Please advise. I’m a bit unclear on this?
Only sand fully cured paint. So after after 24h (read the can for directions). You only sand primer and clear. Do not sand the base coats or graphics. 👍
i had some chips on my lower chainstay and basically just localized the area by sanding it down and using a gloss white paint. u think it will hold up? the chips got sanded down to bare carbon so i stopped - but i didn't use any primer prior to using the paint. it looks well and for a small area + sanding, i wasn't too worried about not using a primer. besides, i think there is some primer there already left.
It won’t be as the clear coated paint around, and it might catch dirt a bit more. But it should hold up just fine. Adding clear coat to an existing paint job is very difficult as you will end up with overspray on the area around. 👍
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT not too worried about clear coat since the paint has a similar gloss finish. I plan on putting frame wrap to the area to serve as a clear coat. My concern was the oil Emanuel paint on bare sanded carbon and sanded previous paint areas. The finish looks great but I want to make sure it won’t degrade or compromise the quality of the carbon itself.
Two questions, after applying the green paint, was the paint roughened again with 1000 sandpaper or was clear paint sprayed on directly? If not, did you clean the frame again before applying the clear coat and with what solvent so as not to attack the paint?
Nice looking bike! and cool videos. I have watched most of them. I am soon to start building and painting my bike. How much time do you wait before masking of the logos and texts after spray painting the main colour? hope to hear from you.
I waited at least 24 hours. However, as you see in this vid I have issues with Montana Cans, since I switched to automotive paint I have no issues with stencils. I made a video a while ago on the issue. 👌
A quicker way to sand down the paint would be to use something what we in Sweden call a "vinkelslip". #tipoftheday But seriously, I am very impressed with your work! 👌
Thanks Olof! The “vinkelslip”, angle grinder Was used on the aluminum frame in my previous project. For carbon… not som much! 🤣😂 media blasting is a more reasonable choice. 👌
Great job! It’s gorgeous! How long did you wait between coats on Montana color basecoat? And how long between final basecoat layer and first shot of 2k clear? Thanks so much!!!!
Thanks! To begin with, I no longer use/recommend Montana, I go into details about it in this video: th-cam.com/video/YuLc7yfZw3g/w-d-xo.html Anyway, drying time for solvent 1k based paint in “normal room temperature” or above is usually quite fast, 1-2h before you can clear coat with 2k clear. Thats also a good time frame to wait before applying any masking (vinyl or tape). Another coat can usually be applied 5-10 minutes after the first. Most paint have a Technical Data sheet where you can find recommendations and data. 👍
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT I’ve done several attempts with Montana gold plus 2k clear - each time with a soft final product you can dent or scratch easily with a fingernail. Currently I’m on attempt #7 - maybe I’m expecting the clear to harden up too soon. Does it take longer than a couple days to get to super hard/durable/cured finish? Thanks so much! Great channel!
@@clarkhewitt106 well, yes, 2k products are very dependent on temperature and humidity. Dry and warm are the best. At automotive paint shops they “bake” the paint by either raising the temperature to above 60 degrees C (140f) ore with infra red panels. In room temperature (about/above 20c/68f) it can take up to a week or two before the clear is complete. That doesn’t mean it isn’t visibly dry or that you cant put another coat on it, but it’s not fully hardened. I recommend you clear coat in stages, one coat, cure for at least 48h, sand with 800 or 1000g and then coat 2. That gives the paint time to harden and you build up a good mechanical bond between the coats. (One coat is usually 2-3 passing with 10-15 min flash time in between).
Great work! I am in the process and got quick question. I have strip-off old paint-work by wet sanding in my carbon frameset. It has some light scratches, Can I apply "2K Rapid Primer Filler in Aerosol SprayMax" then light wet sanding and apply "2K Epoxy Primer in Aerosol SprayMax" over it? Thanks!!!
Thank you Jon. To be honest I haven’t used the 2k rapid primer, so I can’t give a direct answer to the question. I looked it up and it seems to build more than the regular 2k epoxy primer. But I don’t think you’ll need the epoxy primer as well. Sorry I can’t give you a more precise answer. Good luck! 👍
I used Montana Cans, Gold Metallic (they only have one) and the Montana cans 6070, Smaragd Green. However, I don't recomend Montana Cans if you will use vinyl for masking. I go into it in this video: th-cam.com/video/YuLc7yfZw3g/w-d-xo.html
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT thanks for the reply. And the heads up on the vinal. It's interesting that Martin Grey of @etoe recommends Montana and makes no reference to this problem. I guess washing off the old glue with alcohol would damage the paint. Maybe soapy water could clean the old glue off?
@@davidknight9974 I know. I've seen his videos and reached out to him if he had this issue but no serious respons. I can just share my experience and I've only had this problem with Montana.
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT I spray bikes with Montana and vinyl decals as masks, sometimes you get residue, sometimes you don't I think it depends on the vinyl, but if you do WD40 or GT85 on a clean microfiber cloth and then IPA to clean down the frame before the next coat. But I reverse mask, i.e. I spray the colour I want the graphics on the primer (just where I want them) and rub down with 1200 grit before applying and spraying over them with the main colour, I don't know if this makes a difference.
@@chris1275cc nice that it works with those cleaners. I wasn’t brave enough to put that on. But I have continued to research the topic and came to the conclusion that I will not use Montana anymore (for painting with stencils). Se why in this video: 👌 th-cam.com/video/YuLc7yfZw3g/w-d-xo.html
Question. If I want to do a matte black finish, which clear coat do I use? I do not want a gloss, because well, I guess it is supposed to be matte, right? So, I guess the boring matte black as you started with. ha
Hehe! Well. You use a matte clear coat. For a durable finish, use a gloss clear coat, sand it with 800 or 1000 g wet sandpaper and then lay down the matte clear. 😃👍
great job. i just went over all this recently and oh god never again. i cant stand these toxic acrylic paint, even with a proper 3M mask on and doing the job outside. i dont understand how you manage to do this inside in a paint boot.
Thanks. Well, The spraying lasts for like 10 min and then I wind up the garage port and start a couple of fans to vent out the fumes. I switched mask this time to a mask that seals better and ir makes a difference. Full mask would be nice though as I doubt that the eyes can take the fumes very well.
@@achmatsydow3759 I’m not sure what you mean?! The stencils exposes the letters and mask of the background so the letters gets colored by the paint. Check out this video for deeper knowledge. 👉 th-cam.com/video/Ck1ssw3goIY/w-d-xo.html
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT with what exactly are you washing of all the dust remains, after the sandpapering ? If you would use wash gasoline, would there be a change to wipe any of the fresh color of?
Why go right down to the carbon? Just wet flat the frame and put the new topcoat colour on 💁♂️ I'd only go bare on a metal frame that could be holding rust under the paint 🎨
I actually released a video on The subject tho other day. Migt answe your question. DO I HAVE TO Strip paint from bike frame!? th-cam.com/video/GnuRcsXSVVU/w-d-xo.html
@@Dj-Molex better how? It looks great. At the time (this was my second bike i painted) I was not very experienced or skilled, so I painted according to my level. Of i did it today, maybe I would have done it differently.
I had 2 cans of primer, 2 cans of green, 1 can gold and 2 cans clear, 400ml each. How much I used is a definition, especially the primer and clear as they are 2k and once broken they only last 48h. Id say for a beginner, you need two for complete coverage, or probably more like 1,2 or 1,3 can. But it’s not very nice to end up short. For the details you only use parts of a can. 👍 good luck!
TO ORDER PAINT STENCILS FROM ME, VISIT: paintstencils.carrd.co/
I really like the gold with the moose on the inside of the fork. The little details like this really make it look more custom. I found it interesting that you ended up in the position where the whole bike was sprayed with gloss coat. May have saved some time if you'd gloss cleared the decals you'd just painted in gold before removing all the masking. Then given you had to mask up the gold decals to paint the green areas that had got scratched, you could've sprayed mat clear over that area straight away. Either way glad you're happy with the outcome!
Thanks. Yes, making it yourself really gives you possibilities to set details you would not get anywhere else.
Well done another great job. I like the frame geometry too. Can't wait for the build. Keep up the good work.
Thank you!
I really like the color choice here. totally catchy.
🙏🏻 Thanks. Simple and classy. 👌
Thank you so much for making this video. So well made. A perfect walkthrough that I can refer to for a concept I'm working on. Admittedly, I'm now even more intimidated to take the project on, but at least I feel better prepared for what to expect. Your attention to detail is really appreciated.
Thanks and good luck with your project. I have several more videos on the topic so feel free too keep watching. 👌
Cool paint work! Great color combo!
Agree! :)
Thank you so much !!! Thanks to your advice, my bike's gonna be awesome ^^
You’re welcome. Check out the rest of the channel for much more advice and ideas. 👌
Wow, love that paint job
Thanks
Great paint job!!
Thanks! The full build will be out soon. Check it out! 👍
Nice!
Thanks!
this work is really for patient man.
Indeed. You have to become one with the frame! 😉🙏🏻
Very nice job! It looks fantastic and the best part is that no other bike will look the same! I’d have painted the inside of the rear triangle (chainstay, etc) to go with the golden part of the fork, but all in all, excellent design!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you very much! :) Yes, thats the beauty with custom painting! I was thinking about it but I decided to go with all green on the inside of the rear triangle for two of reasons. To begin with I planned on laying a matt clear coat on the green in the end. And masking that area to keep the gold glossy would have been very hard. Also the edges between the areas that would be gold and green were not that defined on this frame and I found it hard to imagine where to put the lines. The risk of failure was simply too big in comparison to the gains. :)
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT that makes sense!
Great job..
Thanks, turned out great. 👍
QUESTION: First,Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I may be repainting my SCOTT carbon bike soon. My question is, Why do you need to remove all the paint first. Can't you simply de-gloss the surface and/or remove the clearcoat, than primer and paint over the original? I did that with one of my aluminium bikes last month and it looks great and holding up so far. ???
Its absolutely a possibility. But for me, it’s a few things. I get to inspect the frame and find any cracks or flaws before I paint. The new paint might react with the old paint and destroy the paint job. Weight savings, it’s marginal, but still. So if I’m gonna put so much time, money and effort into the job, I like to do it on a raw frame.
What a great video, and awesome color combo. Hey which vinyl and transfer tape do you use? Also how long can you leave the decals, before you need to remove them? Congrats on the bike build, just watched that one as well, great looking bike :)
Thank you! 🙏🏻 the vinyl I use is the Oramask 810/813: amzn.to/3tFaInC and a regular gridded transfer tape, don’t remember the brand. When it comes to how long, I almost got mad before I figured out why I got residue left in the paint. But I cracked it, see my solution here: th-cam.com/video/YuLc7yfZw3g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vM6d6WCq6qrmxJyr
That's very interesting, it's almost there is some kind of a chemical reaction between the sticker and the paint. It's almost like the Montana paint dissolves the adhesive from the mask. Anyway, thanks for sharing the process and all, great videos.@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT
@@hmudesign yep, it’s the only paint with that problem that I’ve encountered.
Og-evkin is a good brand. I have an integrated bar and stem handlebar on my emonda. I had a crash in which I hit a car with my front tire and the frame split in half at the head tube had a broken arm but the handle bar didn’t suffer any damage
Good to hear. My frame is all I have from them, but it rides great so far!
Not sure what you used to remove the residue, but for a gentle glue / residue removal try next time citrus furniture polish ( pledge) there are also no name brands you can get cheap work the same.
Ps very sweet vid! Thanks for posting.
Thanks. I tried a couple of home remedies, bicarbonate and olive oil amongst other. Took some but I pretty sure I let the masking sit for to long and the glue “grew” in to the “raw” painted area. Didn’t try your solution though. I’ll probably will on a separate test tube. 👍
Should I sand between each layer of primer or only once it has cured for 24 hours. And then finish off with the final primer and move onto the base coat.
And should I do the same to the base coat? Sand in between the base layer
x2/3 and on the final coat? Or leave the final base coat untouched from sanding?
And once I applied my decals and logos. I will apply the colour layers 2/3 times again. Should I sand the colour or I shouldn’t touch it?
And only sand after I applied the clear coat?
Please advise. I’m a bit unclear on this?
Please advise?
Only sand fully cured paint. So after after 24h (read the can for directions). You only sand primer and clear. Do not sand the base coats or graphics. 👍
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT thank you
i had some chips on my lower chainstay and basically just localized the area by sanding it down and using a gloss white paint. u think it will hold up? the chips got sanded down to bare carbon so i stopped - but i didn't use any primer prior to using the paint. it looks well and for a small area + sanding, i wasn't too worried about not using a primer. besides, i think there is some primer there already left.
It won’t be as the clear coated paint around, and it might catch dirt a bit more. But it should hold up just fine. Adding clear coat to an existing paint job is very difficult as you will end up with overspray on the area around. 👍
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT not too worried about clear coat since the paint has a similar gloss finish. I plan on putting frame wrap to the area to serve as a clear coat. My concern was the oil Emanuel paint on bare sanded carbon and sanded previous paint areas. The finish looks great but I want to make sure it won’t degrade or compromise the quality of the carbon itself.
Two questions, after applying the green paint, was the paint roughened again with 1000 sandpaper or was clear paint sprayed on directly?
If not, did you clean the frame again before applying the clear coat and with what solvent so as not to attack the paint?
Nope! Don’t sand the colors. No need and if you hav several colors you risk to drag color over to another. 👍
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT Thanks!
@@ThePlanetSammy 👍
Nice looking bike! and cool videos. I have watched most of them. I am soon to start building and painting my bike. How much time do you wait before masking of the logos and texts after spray painting the main colour? hope to hear from you.
I waited at least 24 hours. However, as you see in this vid I have issues with Montana Cans, since I switched to automotive paint I have no issues with stencils. I made a video a while ago on the issue. 👌
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT thanks for your reply! If you wait 24hrs you can't paint wet on wet and you'll have to sand in between all layers right?
@@maurijnklok9668 not on base. With 1k the solvents will bind well. If you sand on base you run risk of getting a dull look. 👍
A quicker way to sand down the paint would be to use something what we in Sweden call a "vinkelslip". #tipoftheday
But seriously, I am very impressed with your work! 👌
Thanks Olof! The “vinkelslip”, angle grinder Was used on the aluminum frame in my previous project. For carbon… not som much! 🤣😂 media blasting is a more reasonable choice. 👌
Hi! What frame it it? Looks nice.
Its a Chinese frame, OG-Evkin is the brand. :) Carbon Disc brake.
Great job! It’s gorgeous! How long did you wait between coats on Montana color basecoat? And how long between final basecoat layer and first shot of 2k clear? Thanks so much!!!!
Thanks! To begin with, I no longer use/recommend Montana, I go into details about it in this video: th-cam.com/video/YuLc7yfZw3g/w-d-xo.html
Anyway, drying time for solvent 1k based paint in “normal room temperature” or above is usually quite fast, 1-2h before you can clear coat with 2k clear. Thats also a good time frame to wait before applying any masking (vinyl or tape). Another coat can usually be applied 5-10 minutes after the first.
Most paint have a Technical Data sheet where you can find recommendations and data. 👍
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT I’ve done several attempts with Montana gold plus 2k clear - each time with a soft final product you can dent or scratch easily with a fingernail. Currently I’m on attempt #7 - maybe I’m expecting the clear to harden up too soon. Does it take longer than a couple days to get to super hard/durable/cured finish? Thanks so much! Great channel!
@@clarkhewitt106 well, yes, 2k products are very dependent on temperature and humidity. Dry and warm are the best. At automotive paint shops they “bake” the paint by either raising the temperature to above 60 degrees C (140f) ore with infra red panels. In room temperature (about/above 20c/68f) it can take up to a week or two before the clear is complete. That doesn’t mean it isn’t visibly dry or that you cant put another coat on it, but it’s not fully hardened. I recommend you clear coat in stages, one coat, cure for at least 48h, sand with 800 or 1000g and then coat 2. That gives the paint time to harden and you build up a good mechanical bond between the coats. (One coat is usually 2-3 passing with 10-15 min flash time in between).
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT This is VERY helpful. Thank you so much for taking the time to reply! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
@@clarkhewitt106 Best of luck with your projects! :)
Great work! I am in the process and got quick question. I have strip-off old paint-work by wet sanding in my carbon frameset. It has some light scratches, Can I apply "2K Rapid Primer Filler in Aerosol SprayMax" then light wet sanding and apply "2K Epoxy Primer in Aerosol SprayMax" over it?
Thanks!!!
Thank you Jon. To be honest I haven’t used the 2k rapid primer, so I can’t give a direct answer to the question. I looked it up and it seems to build more than the regular 2k epoxy primer. But I don’t think you’ll need the epoxy primer as well. Sorry I can’t give you a more precise answer. Good luck! 👍
A little bit of soap in your sanding water keeps the sandpaper from clogging as bad. 👍
Thats a great tip! I'll try it next time! Cheers!
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT I forgot to say, nice job 👍
@@jbratt Thank you! :)
@@jbratt And check out my latest paint video! th-cam.com/video/m6HbxUOF5OA/w-d-xo.html
Hi what are the exact colours you used? I like them and want to use this combo on my bike.its difficult to judge colours online!
I used Montana Cans, Gold Metallic (they only have one) and the Montana cans 6070, Smaragd Green. However, I don't recomend Montana Cans if you will use vinyl for masking. I go into it in this video: th-cam.com/video/YuLc7yfZw3g/w-d-xo.html
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT thanks for the reply. And the heads up on the vinal. It's interesting that Martin Grey of @etoe recommends Montana and makes no reference to this problem. I guess washing off the old glue with alcohol would damage the paint. Maybe soapy water could clean the old glue off?
@@davidknight9974 I know. I've seen his videos and reached out to him if he had this issue but no serious respons. I can just share my experience and I've only had this problem with Montana.
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT I spray bikes with Montana and vinyl decals as masks, sometimes you get residue, sometimes you don't I think it depends on the vinyl, but if you do WD40 or GT85 on a clean microfiber cloth and then IPA to clean down the frame before the next coat. But I reverse mask, i.e. I spray the colour I want the graphics on the primer (just where I want them) and rub down with 1200 grit before applying and spraying over them with the main colour, I don't know if this makes a difference.
@@chris1275cc nice that it works with those cleaners. I wasn’t brave enough to put that on. But I have continued to research the topic and came to the conclusion that I will not use Montana anymore (for painting with stencils). Se why in this video: 👌 th-cam.com/video/YuLc7yfZw3g/w-d-xo.html
Hi there, did you used 1 can for each color/primer? Also how many ML? Just for reference as I will also try to DIY. Thanks
Question. If I want to do a matte black finish, which clear coat do I use? I do not want a gloss, because well, I guess it is supposed to be matte, right? So, I guess the boring matte black as you started with. ha
Hehe! Well. You use a matte clear coat. For a durable finish, use a gloss clear coat, sand it with 800 or 1000 g wet sandpaper and then lay down the matte clear. 😃👍
great job. i just went over all this recently and oh god never again. i cant stand these toxic acrylic paint, even with a proper 3M mask on and doing the job outside. i dont understand how you manage to do this inside in a paint boot.
Thanks. Well, The spraying lasts for like 10 min and then I wind up the garage port and start a couple of fans to vent out the fumes. I switched mask this time to a mask that seals better and ir makes a difference. Full mask would be nice though as I doubt that the eyes can take the fumes very well.
Well done. Are you a graduate of ETOE academy?
I've seen a few of his videos. ;)
Very nice. Do you know how much weight the paint job added?
Yes! th-cam.com/video/zmAsYB_eumw/w-d-xo.html
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT word! Awesome!
do you not sand the green color to smooth out any orange peel texture or spray paint texture?
Nope. Orange peel is rarely any problem for base paint if you have a smooth surface and paint in adequate temperatures.
Any questions? Let me know! :)
Are those reverse stencils you are using?
@@achmatsydow3759 I’m not sure what you mean?! The stencils exposes the letters and mask of the background so the letters gets colored by the paint. Check out this video for deeper knowledge. 👉 th-cam.com/video/Ck1ssw3goIY/w-d-xo.html
Can't you simply de-gloss the surface and/or remove the clearcoat, than primer and paint over the original?
@@HealthvsWealth4me You can but paint weighs a lot.
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT with what exactly are you washing of all the dust remains, after the sandpapering ? If you would use wash gasoline, would there be a change to wipe any of the fresh color of?
Why go right down to the carbon? Just wet flat the frame and put the new topcoat colour on 💁♂️ I'd only go bare on a metal frame that could be holding rust under the paint 🎨
I actually released a video on
The subject tho other day. Migt answe your question. DO I HAVE TO Strip paint from bike frame!?
th-cam.com/video/GnuRcsXSVVU/w-d-xo.html
Hello, which grade of sand paper do you use to stripe the primer?
180 or 240. check out this video about base prepp: th-cam.com/video/76VBieJ66PY/w-d-xo.html
gold ??
Yes?! Gold spray paint! Why?
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT Why didn't you make it out of Cromgold? that would have been better
@@Dj-Molex better how? It looks great. At the time (this was my second bike i painted) I was not very experienced or skilled, so I painted according to my level. Of i did it today, maybe I would have done it differently.
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT I'm not saying your work is bad! I just wanted to say it would be nicer in chrome
@@Dj-Molex No, it’s ok. No offense taken. As I said, I’ve evolved and maybe my next project that involves gold will be chrome. 👌
Hi there, did you used 1 can for each color/primer? Also how many ML? Just for reference as I will also try to DIY. Thanks
I had 2 cans of primer, 2 cans of green, 1 can gold and 2 cans clear, 400ml each. How much I used is a definition, especially the primer and clear as they are 2k and once broken they only last 48h. Id say for a beginner, you need two for complete coverage, or probably more like 1,2 or 1,3 can. But it’s not very nice to end up short. For the details you only use parts of a can. 👍 good luck!
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT Thank you, watched a ton of vids but yours is the one I might follow 🙂
@@Ralfh18 great. Check out my three latest videos. They are guides on how to do. 👍