Adam Ondra #76: Bolting a New Route / Potential 9c Project
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.ย. 2024
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This episode is about finally deciding to bolt a line that I have been looking at for so many years, but always thinking it was probably impossible. How the process of bolting went you can find out in the next episode. The line turned out to be probably possible, and surely pretty hard!
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Credits:
STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
DIRECTED BY
LACO KORBEL
CAMERA
PAVEL KLEMENT
LACO KORBEL
ARCHIVE FOOTAGE
DIRECT ALPINE
EDITED BY
PAVEL KLEMENT
PRODUCTION
JAKUB PÍNA
SUBTITLES BY
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
EXECUTIVE PRODUCER
PAVEL BLAŽEK
SONGLIST
Alejandro Del Pozo - It Was Worth It
Evan MacDonald - Do That
Sonic Sanctuary - Sunlight City
Cymatix - Comfort Zone
Klaus Hergersheimer - Whitehorse Meadow
Tellent Studio - Dream Landing
© 2020 AO PRODUCTION S.R.O.
Adam: this hold is surprisingly quite good The hold: 6 mm slopey crimp
Look more like 3mm very slopy crimp. Especially when Adam says its good haha
@@flyingmuntliger2808 wow the joke is so much funnier when you exaggerate an exaggeration
With massive overhang 🤣
place your feet right and small holds will feel good
@@johnnycigar3240 not adams small holes
"Sometimes you bolt a route and than you are disappointed because it was too easy". Very relatable..
ah i hate it when that happens
So relatable smh
easy to him being 9a, 9b+ hahaha absolutely a monster. hes so cool man, truly an idol and I just found out about him a week ago. Watched over 40 videos lol.
This actually happens to me. Not in his grade range oc but its disapointing when you think its gone be hard af and then its easy stuff that looked way worse.
Imagine being tired of your neighbor drilling whole week, so you go into the mountains. And there is another guy with a cordless drill :D
Most drills are cordless do you live in Antarctica?
@@challengemasters775 he may live in a noncordless district 😂
@@challengemasters775 I live in Slovakia (Adam Ondra is from Czechia, we were two parts of one country until 1993). If I can, I use drill with cable. They are usually more powerful and you don't need to change and charge the batteries. I'm pretty sure most drills are not cordless in my country.
I am alone and I can't stop literally laughing out loud at this
@@challengemasters775 Wow, why did you feel the need to trash a comment that was genuinely funny and original?
I got a feeling Adam will find a hilarious knee bar on the slab section :-D
and he will - once again - make a prayer to the gods of gravtiy while hanging upside down on said kneebar.
The _really_ hilarious thing is that you probably meant this as a joke. Then the madman actually went and did it.
I thought the mountains were created with the bolts, this was a eye opener.
You can tell he‘s super excited about this route
He is running out of difficult routes so he is drilling his own, smart man!
his other 9c he drilled
He has bolted plenty of routes already.
So true..dude amazin
In his FIELD
CAN SEE WITHIN TWO YEARS/HIGH FREQUENCY TRADING
lol, this is hardly new. He's by absolutely miles has the most hard first ascents of any climber. He's bolted a lot.
@Pavel Blažek thats perfect, I wish they allowed us to drill on our local rock
I really love the dotted outlines showing the various holds -- it really helps me see what I would otherwise never ever see. I plan on seeing this again before you actually climb the route.
I really enjoy watching you Adam. You stayed humble, even tho the WORLD is SCREAMING at you that you are the best on the planet. It is very nice to see ... Athletes nowadays ... love themself too much.
Interesting, I never thought about other people not being able to try your project unless you say its okay
I guess they can try it but ain‘t allowed to clip the anchors.
In some places they place a red padlock into the first bolt so that everyone knows not to touch the route. It's common courtesy not to climb if someone else has put in the effort to clean and bolt a route. It's their baby, and get to name it.
@Thu Nell Ⓥ marking routes as "closed projects" via red string is a very common practice in the US. It often takes several hours or even days to clean and bolt a route. Also the developer is usually paying for the bolts (~$5-15 per bolt) out of pocket. Many people would be unwilling to go through that whole process if they didn't get an exclusive chance to get the first ascent.
@Thu Nell Ⓥ Not really, just classic climbing ethics. You spend years cleaning, bolting and developing a route then you get the FA and naming rights. It's considered unethical to get the FA on someone else's project without their express permission.
@@8kshower706 Is there a time limit to that courtesy? After how long would you consider it okay to try a route, if the route setter is not able or interested in doing it?
9c? He's back at it again-
Can’t seem to stop climbing for some reason
@@20GRob king line is on private property and the landowner has said he doesn't want climbers there any more....
Polluxerium I mean he did just that on the 9b+ level a few years ago...
@@20GRob www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/climbing-area-laghel-closed-off-with-the-dream-of-the-9c-route-for-stefano-ghisolfi/
@@gwayav9 Oof
I am extremely excited to see the outcome of this. awesome stuff adam!
the camera work and editing on your videos is done very well. Laco Korbel and Pavel Klement, nice work :-)
7:40 Actually the expanding happens while tightening the nut and not while hammering the bolt in.
It is important to tight the bolt with specific torque!
And two more things you can do better is to tape the drill bit so you don't drill much deeper than you need and to hammer the bolt in as far as you can whilr being able to get the nut on. This makes the "working lengh" of the bolt inside the rock longer and the part sticking out of the nut is shorter so you dont hit it while clipping or falling.
"specific torque" means nothing, because it depends of the hardness of the rock. When you tighten, you should be able to feel this torque increase, showing that the bolt expands correctly, and then stop before damaging the rock or breaking the bolt. If the torque doesn't increase or decreases that means the rock is too soft or the hole too large (if you changed angle while drilling). For a rock climbing usage, it is also important to only use long stainless bolts with a diameter superior or equal to 12mm to get enough strength.
@@br4713 I agree that you have to feel that the expanding part is engaging with the rock. I also don't use a torque wrench. But I bolted a lot in similar limestone to Adam's route and it looks for me like he did not tight the bolt enough.
And for harder rock like hard limestone or granite 10mm bolts >70mm long are super bomber. They will hold at least 20kn and you will never get that load on climbing.
@@jsl2phdx Hello, I work in rope access in mountain and use those bolts for years now almost everyday. Stainless steel resists to corrosion wich is a good thing, but on the other hand it is brittle and can break if you overtighten it (already seen). The resistance of a bolt is much less than 20kn, it depends of the hardness of the rock. The 20kn mark that is engraved is the bolt hanger's strength, the resistance of the bolt itself can vary between 5 and 10kn depending of the rock resistance...
@@br4713 even a massive whipper doesn't bring you to 10kn. I have never seen a well installed 316l 10mm expansion bolt that is not corroded threw sea water or in too soft rock that broke from a climbers fall
@@br4713 10mm expansion bolts out of 316l stainless steel are probably the most used bolts existing...but i'm not a rope access worker just a climber and craftsman so you might know better ;)
Hammering is not what expands the bolt - it's the tightening of the nut that makes the bolt flange expand.
Yes, complete misunderstanding of the principle of expansion bolts. I hoped that somebody pointed this out and I don't have to write comment by myself. Thank you!
@@alcupone6462 Kinda weird, to write a comment that you are happy not to have to comment about it.
@@alcupone6462 im proud that you knew it :) god job :)
@@Im-just-Stardust still happy :D
And the torque use use for tightening the nut is very important...I think Adam is not using enough torque in the video....
Wow! Who knew Adam had such a great talent for being in front of a camera! I'm hooked and subscribed! So glad I found him. He's super interesting, talented and so generous to share his experiences and knowledge with us.
He says he hopes the route isnt too easy, the easy will be a 9a + hahaha . Adams passion about climbing is something I wish i could find about something in life. I aspire to be so happy and balanced as he is.
No holds drilled, no sika, humble... Wish lots of bolters who still drill holds with the excuse "otherwise won't be possible or too hard" learn something. Stay humble, and if too hard, leave it for next gen 💪
glad to hear how far your English has come from when i first heard you speak. it’s amazing man, keep up the hard work.
So excited to see you work this project! Please don't skip straight to the send with your videos :D
Letting them know you're going to bolt and climb is a must. Along with showing your appreciation and gratitude towards them.
Adam’s pronunciation of 4 syllable words is the best.
You transmit a tranquility.... Maximum🍀🍀
Great video. I am also from a place called Moravia 😆 but in Costa Rica. 🇨🇷 thanks for sharing your work and your views.
Keep the hard work and keep the passion. Peace ✌️.
Awesome work Adam, I love seeing you push the progressive edge of sport climbing.
This is hands down one of the best episodes so far!
Can someone explain to me how the first bolt was put in there? 4:19
yeah
So interesting to see the process of bolting a route. Thanks for the great video!
When bolting with true-bolts (with a nut on the end) I usually use a lock washer and loctite to prevent the nut from loosening over time. I found Flush-heads (where the nut head is part of the shaft) are better as there’s no nut to come loose over time. I also use a brush to clean dynabolt holes. The cleaner the hole the better. The trickiest part is getting a good system in place to make the job as easy as possible, cos it’s pretty hard graft! Nice tutorial tho Adam.
Today is a fine day for learning. Thanks for showing us your wisdom!
9C? He's back!
I'm teaching my son the ropes of climbing and his teacher will be the best (Adam) 😊
Is there going to be a follow up, where we can see the rest of the route? Would really like to see you bolting and climbing all of it...
I didn't understand a word of what Vkadimir said, but the rest was sooo interesting ! Seriously I've been wondering about this precise subject for so long, thanks for all your explanations !
Turn on subtitles!
Believe it or not, this was like 5% of the bolting process. He didnt reveal much. I hope no one buys a drill based on this "tutorial".
is there a vid of him trying the route?
hola adam tengo 10 años y llevo 6 meses escalando , mi maxima bia es el 6B+ tus videos me estan motivando mucho y por eso me e suscrito . GRACIAS
This is so enjoyable to watch, keep on Adam!!
i dont even climb and dont know if i ever will but i just keeping watching all these videos
Great video ! Explains nicely how routes are made.
I've been wondering this since I started watching your videos. Especially on upside down areas
funny, I believe many first ascentionists would look at then entire route on rappel and maybe even top rope it before bolting it. I suppose that you can bolt to explore the moves if you get bolts from sponsors and can climb pretty much anything. Looking forward to seeing the attempt to send.
Me *Looking at the holds Adam points at*
Adam: 3:32
LOL
Funny comment, but you're 1sec off. 3:32 seems better, no? Might want to edit.
This is what's happen to me on a 6b...
made my day😂👌
The information that you're providing use amazing thank you so much please keep making awesome content
did he have any follow up on this?
Thanks Adam. Cant wait to see how this works out 🦾
Can't wait to see you project this!
Fun to watch someone put up a new route using a "ground up" style but actually going top down.
Great video! Thanks for introducing the bolting process to us🙂
Adam u shredded my ear with that drill at the start as the audio was only mapped to the right ear
If you read this!
7:25 please checkout the whole 10 minute vid of a local legend setting routes since years!
The video is called "Pokerón" on the Hanibal cz YT-channel.
I don't remember it having subtitles yet, but the cinematic and raw appeal are incredible.
For more Czech sandstone goodness, there's also the 30 minute English-subtitled "Od palice k vrtu" by Direct Alpine. It shows Špek ground-up bolting a new route. Absolute legend. The footage here is from that short film.
@@nicopuada4618 I watched that without subtitles haha didn't notice that feature! But I was totally amazed
Excited to see how you get on Adam! Question do you think the progression of cutting edge sport grades will be due to these boulder hybrid sport routes or do you think it still possible to achieve these grades in a more traditional sport route style?
I think you guy saying "he should of torqued the nut more" underestimate his strength. Is there a follow up on this route?If Im unsure of a bolt placement I drill deeper so I can bury the bolt afterwards.
Some expansion anchors require you to tighten the bolt not just hammer in. This is coming from a structural engineer who has never bolted a route. Maybe hammer in expansion is the norm on rock but generally I have used expansion bolts you have to torque, they are better.
Ah damn it won't go...but I have this Hilti chisel and drill...oh I didn't see that hold. Perfect.
This is super interesting! Very good at explaining everything
Can't wait to flash this next time I'm in the area
I am so excited about the new route. Cant wait for your first attempt
Oh yeah... Silence big brother 😂
Right on! Dude, Keep On Trucking
Awesome potential for a 9c Congrats
Question: before you (Adam) started making new bolts, you went up the wall by attaching to an existing bolt. How did THAT first bolt get in place?
Well clearly someone attached themselves to an existing bolt and put that bolt in place
8:55 '' It's quite common in my own crack that once you remove the outer layer, it is yellow underneath, it is kinda humid. This is normal '' - Adam Ondra.
lmao
Quote is incorrect
Cant wait to see you try/send this project! :D
Who else loves the way he says clean.
Thank you Adam for posting this. I kept wondering who/ how those bolts were fastened.
Now all i want if to see him try 😭
God yes I can't wait for the next video ! So excited to potentially see the next super hard route that Adam might send ! Another 9c would be awesome
TheWateringWiz or maybe even 9d???
TheWateringWiz that would b dope bc it would be first 5.16
@@Connordrs1123 haha I think you meant 9c+ ? But yeah, it'd awesome to see adam reach the next level !
what actually happend to this? was it to hard or to easy? has he even tried it yet? or hasnt he even bolted the rest?
Good luck bro. Smash it tiger!!!
Can't wait to see you send it!
Re-tightening bolts. Is it a good practice? I had heard of it in Kalymnos and bought myself a wrench, only to discover a year later in a routesetting course that re-tightening is dangerous. What's your opinion on this?
Was always wondering how they got there
First attempt so far ?
I’m looking forward him to trying this:)
So, maybe a silly question, but how did the first bolt where Adam hangs from get there?
I thought the exact same
Wish they showed that as well. Two methods:
1) rappel from above using trees or other suitable equalized anchor points. This is the general method as it gives you full access to the wall. You can inspect the whole thing, plan potential routes, and place bolts in suitable locations. This should be left to pros who can understand all of this and can be trusted to not screw things up for future climbers.
Also note that natural anchor setting, and rope soloing’ would be required, and is an advanced technique and not easy to do safely.
2) tall ladder. Possible in this situation because of the solid flat ground, but only let’s you get up the height of the ladder.
Can't wait to see Adam climb this monster...
Maintain before extending; for your body and your routes. Expansion needs a solid base. Please remember to support rebolting efforts everyone!
I saw an earlier video where Adam talked about the etiquette of bolting being that you should only bolt if you climb from the bottom. Think maybe I misunderstood, anybody know what the ‘rules’ are?
any updates on this yet?
There is a wonderful modern invention for placing bolts in the first 8 meters. It's called a ladder.
Jak to dopadlo?
Adam... It seems you said the bolt's edge expands when you are hammering in the hanger bolt. But the bolt tights when you tighten the nut and compress the end of the bold (which is wider than the expanding wedge) against the wedge. Just a geek thing but pretty important for safety.
🙏🏻
Surprised to see Adam opting for wedge bolts. I would think given the high moisture at this crag and eventual likely hood of hardware rusting that at a minimum sleeve bolts would be used. Of course it matters not for the FA, but when it has to re-bolted in 20 years it will be much easier to use the original bolt holes if it's sleeve bolts.
Is it really a problem with good stainless steel bolts?
Common misconception. Wedge bolts are fairly easy to remove if you have the right tools. Basically you disengage the collar by tapping the bolt back into the hole, spin the bolt to create a groove that stops the collar from re engaging and then you attach a puller to the threads and pull the bolt. Takes 5 to 10 min if you are in practice. Lots of info online now. I would much rather pull a wedge than a sleeve bolt. The thin sleeve tends to come off in tiny sections if at all. 30 + minutes if you can get them out at all.
@@beaniebobh1 All bolts will age/deteriorate/rust at different rates given a number of variable factors specific to their environment. Stone porosity, moisture, salinity, etc. However, if you placed two bolts at roughly the same location, one sleeve and one wedge, you will be more successful extracting the sleeve regardless of age. Your correct that the sleeve will rust and be difficult to remove if it's rusted badly, but with the correct tools it can be done. When wedge bolts rust the end of the bolt, the wedge, will snap off at the thin neck when you try to use a drill to spin it. I know because I have replaced both bolt types many, many times. BTW, sometimes even newer wedge bolts will shear off when spun to remove. All things being equal sleeve bolts are easier to remove on average.
@@jcrotty18 Are you disengaging the collar by tapping the bolt back into the hole? Based on the few hundred bolts I have removed I still have to respectfully disagree with you on sleeve bolts being easier to remove than wedge bolts, but maybe we are dealing with different types of sleeve bolts. In the Sierra the Powers 5 piece bolts are one of the only sleeve bolts we see. Those bolts require a whole kit of taps, draw studs, pliers and magnets (in addition to the drill, puller and spinner you're already carrying) to get the whole bolt out if it is even possible. If you fail to remove all of the pieces and the hole must be reused it is common practice to used an old drill bit to grind thru the remaining bits of metal. I have spent over an hour and a half removing a five piece. Compared to a max of 15 min on a wedge. I haven't had a 100% success on either type of bolt but when I have issues with wedge bolts it is generally bc the threads that I need to attach the coupler nut were smashed on installation. YMMV.
@@jcrotty18 Re your assertion all things being equal a sleeve bolt will be easier to remove, this has not proven true in my experience. One developer in my area had a habit of placing one 5 piece and one wedge on TR anchors, dont ask me why. Of 6 sets I replaced I was 6 for 6 on wedges and only 5 for 6 on the 5 piece sleeve bolts despite spending three or four times as much time on them.
Awesome episode
I can't wait to see him try
Thanks for your sharing 👍
I like your passion bro
So hyped for this project
Wouldn’t he have been able to fasten the rope at the top of the wall and top rope down to install the bolts on the vertical part? Or would the ropes not be long enough?
You climb up. So you need to see how that ascent will look like otherwise you are placing bolts from a angle which you will not climb.
Great video, thanks
cant wait for the next video on this
well done!...🧗🏻♂️
so exciting!!
How do you deal with eventual spiders, bees and scorpions all along? Especialy in boulders and
highballs, but also on routes.
how do you think they keep their energy levels during climbing? it's called free calories
Nice, no chipping!
So is your route open or closed? :p
8:50 Anyone knows Distant Coder? No? SOLID ROCKS BROTHER
Hi Adam! Or I've to call u... Shaggy? 🤔
Btw very interesting video! Thank u!
more of this!
I wonder if out climbing will ever commercialized? You could chip away at the rock to make hold easier and make hold where there not.. I don't know if I'd agree with it but alot of other extreme sports we t that way
Hilti, nice