Adam Ondra #82: Meet with Seb Bouin / La Moustache qui Fache 9a+
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2020
- ENGLISH SUBTITLES AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS
ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
After weeks of specific preparation for Briançon, it was time to take advantage of being in Briançon region which is full of high quality crags. I went to Entraygues with a specific goal of trying La Moustache qui Fache 9a+ first ascended by Enzo Oddo. I was lucky to have my friend Seb Bouin telling me all the beta, I felt strong so it seemed it was all set for a nice send. Check it out in the next episode!
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Thumbnail picture by: Petr Chodura
Credits:
STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
DIRECTED BY
LACO KORBEL
CAMERA
PAVEL KLEMENT
LACO KORBEL
EDITED BY
PAVEL KLEMENT
PRODUCTION
JAKUB PÍNA
SUBTITLES BY
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
EXECUTIVE PRODUCER
PAVEL BLAŽEK
SONGLIST
Klaus Hergersheimer - Omnipresence
Klaus Hergersheimer - Elmwood Ends
Klaus Hergersheimer - Palindromes
Klaus Hergersheimer - Into the Fog
Colorfilm Music - Ocean in the Sky
© 2020 AO PRODUCTION S.R.O.
#climbing #rockclimbing #9a+ #flashattempt #briancon #france - กีฬา
8a warm up, I can relate to that. I also warm up around 8am.
Damn, you're strong :p
Once I sent a route (still unrepeated), which I graded 9p(m). The route is called "Sleep a bit (m)ore". It's a very difficult boulder problem in my bedroom.
Damn you're crazy, around 8am I can't move from the rest position.
And getting mad you don't flash a 9a+... This guy is ridiculously impressive.
Hahahahahaha
"I'm not very strong at grabbing the holds"- Adam Ondra
It's not even humble at this point
he has relatively low finger strenght compared to Megos
@@megatonante but better Teknik
@@megatonante He has low strength compared to most other top level climbers. Not just Megos. His technique and flexibility just make him better though.
@@leifgriem9753 Also reach. Physical attributes aside though, Ondra's best quality is work ethic. He's tried and grinded out more hard routes than anyone else in the world, which is probably the biggest reason why he's the best.
seb is such a wholesome good guy.
Also climbs hard af.
"That's how the climbing is; Sometimes it's cruel, but it's a fun game"
wise words from ondra
Same energy when I can't flash a 5a
If you climb twice a week, you'll flash pretty much all 5a within a couple of months. Just keep at it!
Seb is low key, classy and definitely a pioneer and one of the best.🙂👍🏼
6:40 In Czech we don't say "I fell", we say "Jsem k*kot, fakt k*nda, p*ča, aaaaagh" and I think that’s beautiful :D
What is the literal translation of that?
@@simonwinterstein348 I'm dick literally pussy, pussy pussy aaaaaa :D (In czech language there are many words with meaning of pussy)
@@kadoSINDICATE yeah thought so^^ Didn't believe in the subtitles ;D
Haha his burst is super funny when you are Polish. Someone should make a t-shirt "Jsem kokot"
@@simonwinterstein348 The meaning is: "I'm a dick, really pussy, cunt aaghh!!" :D
Two of the best climbers in the world in one video
Sharma is not here
@@goldenbeardofficial8541 he said "two of the best", not "the two best"
@@Myosos @Goldenbears Official I love Chris Sharma, he has been my idol for years, but he is not as good as Adam and Alex Megos. And when it comes to lead climbing only, Seb Bouin, Jakob Schubert or Stefan Ghisolfi are slightly better as well. He has been the King for years but the level is rising up so quickly...
I realize this is a pretty small thing overall, but I've always been super impressed with the efficiency of Adam's clipping. No messing around, no fumbling, just a reach and a click, and it's on to the next hold. I guess that's what decades of practice looks like.
I recently watched some lead climbing beginners, I had totally forgotten how hard clipping is for beginners. It took them ages and they often got nervous which made it even worse.
ChanmailleMan it’s an art form in itself, efficient clipping saves time and effort which reduces pump...this is the problem I currently have. I tend to get my body shape wrong when clipping so I’m using up too much energy so I’m pumped before the top!
@@MF-CLIMB It's definitely a tough skill to master. I only end up sport climbing a handful of times a year, so my on-route practice tends to be pretty limited
ChanmailleMan I lead climb indoors once a week so I’m trying to get better and not let the panic of clipping and holding myself stop me from progressing.
Northern Sends Support your weight a much as possible with your legs/feet/heels, keep your non-clipping arm straight; if you are pumped, use your clipping arm to hold your body and shake your non-clipping arm/hand as long as possible, giving you the maximum amount of strength to hold on while making the clip. It might not feel intuitive, but it is much more important to rest the non-clipping arm/hand as it takes far less strength to make a clip than to hold your body weight.
This advice really helped me when I was still new to leading, hope it helps you too!
It's amazing how adam climbs on his flash go like if he checked the route for weeks 🤯
He did. Watched videos of ascent and executed beta from it.
top athletes are monsters at visualization
cool video, its awesome that adam doesnt pretend everything its la vie en rose and puts up is failuures as much as his success! keeping it real
Wonderful ! Seb is a pionner of the Gorges du Verdon, one of the greatest place in France, which is by the way really full of divers landscapes and differents regions, it's wonderful. Thank you for this cool video and congratulations, outdoor is really something else than indoor artificial wall climbing, even both complete themselves
seb bouin is such a humble and nice guy, really cool vibes in this video!
Really appreciate this episode! It's important to see a heroic figure come up short sometimes. We all know he's still Adam Ondra, and that helps us when we fail! Much appreciated!
I have a slight suspicion that the words at 6:39 were not translated correctly for the subtitles... 🤔
You are correct! Although the English language lacks the variety of hard expressive words, I shall do the best to translate this part for you: I'm such a dick, fucking pussy, fuck! Would probably would be a pretty close translation.
Loved this one!! Really a huge fan of Seb, and I thought this was a well done story. I think it’s so important to show this side of climbing
I just love how the climbing community are collaborative with each other. You can just sense this in Adam's videos.
La moustache qui fâche = the moustache that irritates (in french) 😆😅
Thank You! Google told me "the angry mustache" hahahaha
I really appreciate Adam's honesty and humbleness!
You know i actually love that not every vid is a crazy last go send attemp and thats it. Its really refreshing and nice to see that sometimes these thing just dont work out but Adam still keeps his head up. Legend!! 👌😎🧗♂️🗻
2 of the best worldwide, the French Alps are so beautiful and dense.
Two legends together ! It's great to see Seb
Forgot how great these video's are - nice to start seeing them come through again!
Aiming for a flash this seriously really is something special. It requires an immense mental implication, as well as a great ability for self questionning.
Indeed, it would be pretty easy, especially for a climber who's already achieved so much, not to go 100% into the ground preparation thus giving him/herself an "excuse" in case of failure. I know I sometimes do that out of laziness (shame...), but mister Ondra is showing us the way: always be true to yourself and aim as high as you can!
Thank you for sharing this
This was my favorite episode so far! I enjoyed watching you two interact!
Thank you for another great video!
These videos get better and better! Please keep up the amazing work!
8a warm up... thank you adam...
Great content. Ounce again addicted to your videos
super vidéo ! merci Adam
Wish I understood Czech to understand Adam's fine words when he falls.
Worst ones you can imagine of..
Basically genitalia in 20 variations :D
i think i understood it without even speaking Czech
turn on the subtitles
I'm a dickhead, I'm a cunt, twat... you're welcome.
Too much respect in this video😍
That hand sequence at 5:16.
All to find the kneebar
You can kill this frustration next, or maybe others nexts. Thats the beauty of climbing. Never give up. Each challenge makes you stronger.
Brilliant footage and well said dude🙏
We got a small glimpse of it in 4:40 but I want to see a complete video from Adams warm up and mental preperation for this kind of attempt!
I really love the camera angles on this one. I like being able to see Adam's grip on the rock.
I love how you guys always include such amazing shots of your surrounding, best climbing content out there for sure!
You mean videos
inspiration. great adam
C'est cool de vous voir dans la même vidéo !
Great climbing, thanks!
I am going to have a rich vocabulary of Czech self-deprecating swear words thanks to Adam Ondra!
"so adam asked if I could give him all the detailed information" ...he had no idea what he was getting himself into :D ondra-detailed is not the same level as everyone-else-detailed :D
I love how Seb pronounces Adam
Adam saying hes not strong at grabbing the holds, I get weak just watching him climb
very cool video, would love to see you two doing some more video together in the future. And I know Im not the only one waiting for strong climbers like you to go and try to repeat Beyond Integral ! haha
Hi Adam, thanks for the effort of making all these amazing videos ! Could you make a video where you show which knots you use to tie the rope into the harness ?
What a great accent, so french.
Les français ils sont où ?
Yolo
Et les fans de Seb ils sont où ? :)
Ici
@@samuelvidal5666 fan de son accent anglais surtout
@@timoterabut7633 C'était beau de l'entendre expliquer la voie ^^
He's human... WOW!
Congrats Seb for redpointing this route!!!
🔥🔥🔥🔥
Joli accent Seb
i jealous of seb bouin's hair
🐱👤 OMG flashing a 9a+ ... Adam is Superman and maybe can switch of gravity. 💪
Without moustache nearly impossible to send. 🧔
Now I'm motivated to go to the gym.
.
Seb just suggested 9c for his latest climb DNA; that would make these two guys the only ones to have established 9c in the world.
"Adam, continue de pousser l'escalade vers le haut" lmao what a pun
8a warmup ....... crying intensifies !
6:37 Oh man Adam ondra's little anger bursts are hilarious xD
0:38. Quality belaying as always.
díky za tu realitu, kdyby všechno končilo happy endem, tak by to brzo bylo vlastně o ničem :) pošleš další
Pour une fois, j'ai bien compris la fin 😅.... very butifull accent Seb 😅!!
"... But that's how the climbing is, sometimes cruel, but it's a nice game ... " >>>>> Wow, It can't be said in a nicer way.
Adam, amazing climbing! Great production quality too! Random question, your necklace looks awesome!! Where can I find it to buy one like it? Thank you sir
2 of the strongest climbers in the world.
Recently a climbing instructor mentioned Ondra while talking about how important it is to exhale while doing a (hard) move. Here's Ondra holding his breath. Though I suppose the moves aren't that hard for him, it's only 9a+ after all.
lol adam's curses
Will the shoe dance help me climb better?
Either way great video as always.
Oh hi Adam
Sorry if this is a dumb question but how are there already quickdraws on the route before you climbed it? Did someone lower off the anchor and place them ahead of time?
Seb said well : « keep going because you are an inspiration ».
Mucv apperciatr this words Seb.
Tjis is how the spitit and good vibed lived on.
Could you maybe do a warmup vid ?
10:44 hits harder now Seb just sent the worlds second 9c
English subtitles would be super helpful 😊🤙
Is the next quickdraw at 6:48 is upside down?
It is.
If you turn on the subtitles when Adam falls, he says “I’m such a twat!” 😂
1:00
My valley! I live at the base of the big mountain on the right of the picture!
The front image looks so like an illustration from a children's bible!
Why don't climbers bring a lazer pointer to the rocks? It would make pointing out the holds much easier... is there a reason they don't do this?
I assume if it worked people would be doing it but, maybe you're on to the next thing... I guess in daylight and given the distances, it wouldn't really work
Come on Adam! You can make a 9b!
You are few years too late with that...
oooo you are an human Adam... it's normal...
They warm up 8a that is my actual limit!!🤦🏻♂️🤣🤣
Hey,
Does somebody know the stone type and length of this route? My team and I do a research project in the frame of a doctoral project on the Ruhr-University-Bochum in Germany, and we try to evaluate contact-times of world elite climbers on different stone types, routes length and disciplines.
Big thanks in advance for your support!
With sporty regards from Germany
Any one know what happen to adam right nose?
5:28 I'm like.. woah.. this isn't even vertical. He could just lean against the wall and rest here. Why is he in such a hurry? Then i notice the quickdraws hanging 50° from the wall.. my brain is confused.. then adjusts..
"Oh shit.. this is overhanging"
ze heart
ze eurt
Au moins nous on parle français et anglais
Did anyone else notice at the start when Ondra sounded like a reloading gun
"I'm such a twat" is probably not the full translation.
I'd really like to know what he said ^^
4:10 two clips, two knee bars
It makes me sad seeing Adam beat himself up when he messes up.
I like three languages in this vid are all untranslated. I mean, I didn't understand a word of the Czech, but when he fell on his flash attempt I could get the gist.
There are subtitles, just fyi.
Use the captions, they've made proper translations of everything there (as in that it's not autogenerated!).
8a for warmup...lol
9:44 XD
MDR la moustache qui fache
Ahoj Adame, nechtěl by jsi vyzvat Anabolic Horse na uchop? Byla by to sranda a mělo by to hodně zhlédnutí a představilo tě širší veřejnosti.
Moontaaain
i dont know what happen but this is a true gay love story
8a WARMUP ._.
escalar se trata el fallar
I blame Seb